วีดีโอ

It’s loud for how long? A few seconds?

I left about 1-2” of uncaulked area at the back of the toilet base for every toilet over the past 26 years.

I drew up my plans by hand. Ruler and a pencil, and some simple math.

It is always good to be mindful of your workspace for safety, dust control, and sometimes customers coming in to look around while you’re on a break.

You do use grout on every tile installation.

Yes, you can spray foam on a roofline, or ceiling depending on where you want your air conditioned barrier to be. There is always more details to consider when you are thinking about doing a closed attic system, such as what existing HVAC system you have (gas or electric). Is is an 80% burn gas system (metal vent pipe), or 95% burn system (pvc vent pipes). You’ll want to make sure your 80% gas HVAC system has a fresh air supply for fuel burn, and possible have its own enclosed closet or room in the attic.

I wonder how many people who made those verbal comments also have Alexa? How many people have done other internet searches, and then Google now recommends whatever videos? Mind reader, or Eaves dropper? 😅🤷🏼‍♂️

@ 😂 in this case I am glad it brought me here, this is a helpful way to get that wax gasket to stick to the toilet and get a good seal. Thanks

How would I get it to you?

The toilet is the Highline Arc model. I pulled the toilet out of its original box.

search google or the official Kohler website for Kohler K-30369-0 (this is the Curve, Lowes version of the Highline), notice the bevel on the lower section of the tank. Compare this with Kohler model K-78305-0 (this is the Arc, Home Depot version of the Highline). Maybe Kohler ships random tank designs to the big box stores.

You’re welcome!

You're welcome!

First, there is no “new” and “old” wax. They are both new wax rings. They aren’t being stacked on top of one another. One was broken up and smooshed to used like an adhesive, to make sure the wax was sticking to the surfaces, because sometimes it doesn’t. The water closet is the toilet for those who don’t understand that term. The toilet pipe is known as the Closet Bend. 🤔I too can make up random percentages like 98.9%. It’s probably more like 99% 😉😂 Even though the toilet drain pipe is either 3” or 4”, the toilet drain opening is around 2”, so for the wax ring with the black come piece in it, it doesn’t affect the flow, but rather help direct it more down the pipe past the initial closet bend flange. No idea how you think a plastic cone can contribute to deterioration. Makes no sense to me.

I’m happy you see the value in what I did with the wax ring.

Put the wax ring on the flange then put the toilet on no need to put it on the toilet

Well, might have been fun! 😄😎

As long as you make sure to spread a little wax on both surfaces, like one might use glue on two halves of wood to ensure the adhesive (wax or glue) for the sake of this conversation, you should be good. Depending on the type of toilet drain pipe flange you have, there may be some other areas that could use some wax to seal it, so watch out for all the holes, grooves, gaps, etc. around that drain pipe flange to prevent a potential sewage or sewer gas leak. And make sure you feel a little squish when you set the toilet down, otherwise you don’t have a good seal. The toilet itself has a 2” or so sized outlet, and it goes into a 3” or 4” drain pipe opening, so you shouldn’t need the horn or funnel looking thing to get everything into the drain pipe. There reinforced wax ring with the horn/cone/funnel thing, has a wax coated urethane foam ring.

You’re welcome. Do whatever you need to do, to get the results you desire.

Awesome!

You can do it either way. For less weight when lifting it over the bolts, install bowl first. Installing the tank afterwards is easy enough, as it’s just 3 bolts, and a nut driver. As long as that toilet is sealed well to the drain pipe with a wax ring, I don’t think anyone will care how you do it.

@craftsmanconnection Thanks

My hourly rate is $75. My daily rate is $600. This Dal Tile 3” x 6” backsplash was about 26 sq. ft. And took 2 days to install, plus some thinset. The client purchased the tile, and grout. I think they originally spent $400 on materials, but when I told them they overpaid, they went elsewhere and spent about $260 or something close to that. So you’re looking at a total around $1,600 to $1700 ish.

😉 Honey Comb, lol…of course!

​@craftsmanconnection can't remember what flavor I bought. Lemme go check..😋

Using them professionally for about 20 years. Never had one leak or call back. I must be lucky or just good.

In my part of the country, Texas, we don’t use a vapor barrier for vapor coming from the outside of the house. On top of the Hardie Backer, I use a waterproofing product called Hydro Ban, so any moisture coming from the shower side of the wall, will not be going into the wall.

I’m not trying to live forever.

Correction, Nobody you know uses wax rings anymore. Most of the people in my comments use wax rings and one or two have said they use rubber rings.

I believe so. I live in Texas, and have lived in California. Froth Pak acts as a vapor barrier due to its closed cell properties. I would look into the subject of vapor barriers, to further educate yourself on the subject. I’m not 100% sure if this other TH-cam channel is in Canada, but I think he is. it’s called Spray Jones. Look into them. He’s very analytical, dry sense of humor. What humor? 😄

AI says: Closed-cell foam is a spray-applied insulation that can be used on exterior walls in Canada to improve energy efficiency and comfort.

You can caulk 95% of the way around, but leave around a 1”-2” section on the backside, so if the toilet leaks, you’ll know about it. The bolts hold the toilet downward, but you don’t want to overtighten and risk cracking the toilet, so you can use the silicone caulking to keep the toilet from getting bumped left or right.

Good question. To which surface the wax gets mounted to first is just preference, but generally the floor flange, because it can’t fall, and I haven’t see anyone do this wax trick to get it to stick to the toilet without worrying about it falling from the toilet during install. 1. Although it seems fairly obvious to me, some people can’t seem to carefully line up the toilet mounting holes with the screws on the floor flange, and then cause damage to the wax ring. Some people don’t have or use those thin clear ish washers that can hold the bolts in place. Been there, done that too with re-installed toilets. The hole on the bottom of the toilet is about 2” inside diameter, and the toilet drain flange on the drain pipe on the floor is about 4” inside diameter, so there’s a pretty good margin of error. 2. Due to the glazing process of some toilets, the bottom of the toilet isn’t smooth or the best surface to initially stick a wax ring to. Sometimes it acts like Oil & Water, and don’t mix well, so I’m trying to ensure I have a bond on both sides. 3. Sometimes the metal toilet drain pipe flange on the floor has a blue paint coating on it, and that paint coating has big paint spots chipped off, and then you have exposed metal or rusty metal on the flange. Sometimes I’ve seen drywall dust, and other debris on the toilet flange from construction/ remodeling things going on. And sometimes people don’t pay much attention to or want to touch the toilet drain pipe (probably don’t have disposable gloves), so stuff just doesn’t get cleaned up.

@@craftsmanconnection Great points. Thank you. I’ll definitely try your way next time. What’s your opinion on the wax rings with a plastic HORN? Lots of debate on that too! Many pros are against the horn. Say to use wax rings only without horn.

Just finished resetting one of my toilets, because there was a leak coming out the front after flushing. Upon removal, it was easy to see the cause. From bolt to bolt around the back of the flange, everything looked normal, with the wax ring still standing tall. Around the front of the flange, the wax was smashed & all over the place, due to several attempts to line it up during installation, and surprisingly the metal flange was actually bent down in the front! Perfect recipe for shit water on the floor of your newly remodeled bathroom

@WendySmith-o2e Was this before or after watching my video? Did you use the extended wax ring on your toilet install? How did the metal ring get bent down, or are the sides bent up? How high is your metal ring compared to the finished floor surface (top of metal ring to top of finished floor)?

Correct, that is what the directions say. However, not everyone can measure and cut Hardie Backer accurately, and giving a full demonstration, and best practices, I use the fabric on all inside and outside corners regardless of what the manufacturer says you can get away with. I do remodeling for a living, and a few dollars worth of fabric isn’t worth having a leak, in a state (Texas), where some older house move around enough to cause a tear in just the liquid membrane all by itself.

It depends on the cabinet, what is going to be seen, and electrical or plumbing requirements. The upper part of the oven cabinet with the doors has a back on it. The space where the oven goes does not have a back on it to make it easier to gain access to the electrical. The exposed left side has trim on it against the wall, and crown on top. molding on top. The right side 1/4” gap was covered by backsplash tile. It also depends on the existing finish condition of the wall surface, if it’s going to be seen, such as under the sink or other cabinets where one could see the walls, and not to mention what the customer wants and is willing to pay for.

On TH-cam Roger Wakefield, a master plumber did a test with a rubber toilet seal and wax rings using an air pressure test, and the rubber seamed to do well. If you have a nice clean toilet flange, then it should work.

@@craftsmanconnection hey thanks, I'll check that video out, no leaks or anything on the one I just set so I'll just leave it, but the next time I replace a toilet I may try one

@@Stacked3403 As long as you could feel like your toilet was pushing down the wax ring for maybe more than a half inch, you should be good. The really skinny wax rings concern me in certain situations. I'd rather have more wax. As far as I know, I have never had a toilet leak, and I do keep in touch with my remodeling clients for sometimes up to 10-12 years. I have had a rubber ring, but have never used it. My gut just doesn't trust it considering that some of the toilet flanges I see are not in the best (new) condition, so I keep Extra Thick Wax rings on my truck/ trailer, because I'm sure it'll work with every situation, if that is "perfect" OR not, a little high flange (1/$' above tile), or a little low (flush with tile).