well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
a trick for getting the first tapered cone bearing on is to place the shaft in the freezer overnight then place the bearing in an oven somewhere between 200-300 degrees F (just enough to expand the steel but not enough to affect the tempering) for a little while it should slip right on easily
When you change out the ball bearings for the tapered rollers, the spindle shaft gears are free to float back and forth 3mm. This can cause a less than full contact between the input shaft gears and the spindle shaft gears. I used the 30mm wide plastic spacer to make two 8.8mm wide spacers to replace the original spacers (7.5mm wide) inside the headstock on the spindle shaft. The extra couple of tenths allow for a little clearance between the gears and bearings. Also, I made a new spacer to fit between the roller bearing and the spanner nut out of aluminum 28mm wide. The original plastic spacer (which was kind enough to donate itself for the two gear spacers) is to "plastic" to use for the spindle bearing preload as it easily deforms.
Thank you, I've been searching for this information as I'm about to do the same upgrade on my machine but also machine and install a hi-low layshaft as my lathe doesn't have one from factory, I'm planning on making the spacers on the lathe before stripping it down.
a quick way to grease bears is to put the grease and bearing in a zip lock bag and close it up and work the grease into the bearings with your hands. This is much less messy way of doing it.
Awesome job man, one thing worth mentioning. I don't think you have enough grease "inside" those bearings, if you look up the old school trick of packing bearings by putting a dollop of grease in your palm and pressing the bearing into it from the outside face until it squeezes through the gap then you know you have enough for a long period of time. It's a mechanic trick and is used for wheel bearings on older vehicles.
ParsedOut yeah i second that. I use the same trick your talking about when I do automotive wheel bearings because they are the same. but yeah def need more grease
I disagree, the amount of grease looks about right to me. It is a pain to strip and rebuild a high speed precision spindle with the bearings preloaded correctly, then upon testing, find it's overheating so you have to strip it again. If packed too much, the grease lubricates ok, but there is not enough air space to disperse heat. I pretty much do my wheel bearings the same way as you guys though.
Possibly try a Molly grease simlar to CV grease its a 70/30 blend of grease and oil makes it slippery as hell but extremely heat and pressure resistant, seen it used in farming equipment and at 800-1300 rpm it hangs on possibly be a better alternative grease for these lathes bearings. For me my lathe has oil feed to bearings so little bit of #32 machine oil and we all good
Molybdenum grease is generally not recommended for ball and roller bearings, where there is no sliding. You normally find it on CV joints where there is static sliding. There is a reason that the original bearings were deep groove ball bearings -- they are sealed. That keeps out the chips, metal dust and carbide flakes that are generated right there. Replacing those bearings with open ones means that you now must frequently re-grease the bearings, not for lubrication but because a thick grease layer is the only thing protecting the bearing from chewing itself up. Ignore the recommendations for optimal grease fill, or viscosity for RPM. Think of the grease application like old-school chassis lube -- you need to inject fresh clean grease frequently to force the contaminated surface grease away.
the way to grease the type of bearings , is put a dab of the grease in youre palm and press the bearing intoo it , you want to press the grease in between the rollers and the cage
Just in the process of commissioning my new 7X14 now and itemizing all the upgrades I would need to give the lathe top performance and precision "out of the gate" so to speak. This was as excellent video - thanks
Watching this video I thought I'd mention they make new belt and pulley set that give you more reduction they claim 40% more power. I believe the pulleys are metal too. Google 1.5x7 belt brings it up and it's about $40 (not sold by littlemachineshop) I plan on doing it to my lathe just thought I'd share this info
Thought I might mention that some of the fellas noted that if You bolt the lathe to a 1/2" steel plate as a mounting base that it stiffens it up considerably and further reduces vibration and smoothes the cutting action as well.
I converted my head stock to hold oil best thing I ever did it was easy threaded a little sight glass . I also bought the upgraded gear kit all brass. But man if you don't lap them it is loud . Love my little guy . Be sure to use SHARP carbide tools and you can turn put nice work. Also I upgraded the tool rest screws to bearings on the trust washers trust me that is a huge difference later 😁👍
Very informative, thanks for sharing. You motivated me to upgrade mine. One caveat: I ordered the timing pulley from LMS & was a little surprised/disappointed to discover it's plastic.
The first and most important step is to bolt it DOWN to a heavy table. If the lathe is free to rock you are not getting precision out of it, it's that simple.
Great informative instructional video! I hear you about the metal gears from Little Machine Shop. I have a Micro Mark 7x16 that doesn't have a 2-speed gearbox, but one day I was stupid enough to turn it on when both the power feed and the carriage lock were engaged. I turned it off immediately, but after that I heard a "click-click" sound whenever it was running. I couldn't see anything wrong until after I pulled the gears and found half a tooth broken off on one of the 80 tooth gears. That's when I ordered a set of metal gears from LMS. I replaced only the broken gear, holding the other metal gears in reserve until the next time that I forget what I'm doing. I don't know if there would be more noise running a metal gear against another metal gear. When I bought the lathe I also bought the "Tweaks & Enhancements Kit" and the "Tooling Package" from LMS and have never been sorry that I did. Thank God for LMS, and thank you for the instructional video.
I remember when my gears broken and I replaced them that the high torque gear was close to the edge of headstock. I flipped them and had the crank reversed and that seemed to help a lot! Nice upgrade you made! Congrats.
Awesome vid!! I’m getting ready to replace my spindal gears with metal and also upgrading the bearings as well! I didn’t see in your discription a part link for the spindal spacer though?! Could you update or post the part number please!!? Thanks and appreciate your time for making this vid!!
hey , just wanted to mention you not meant to spin the chuck without anything clumped in the jaw as the jaws tend to unscrew and fling out of the chuck just a heads up
Two thoughts - thank God for people like you who take the time to make these videos that help so many people. And, are you crazy to completely disassemble that lathe? How can you figure out where everything goes back in? I know my old brain couldn't keep track. Hopefully, the owner's manual has an exploded diagram that you followed.
Hehe, like anything else, once you get to putting it back together stuff starts making sense. Plus, half the reason I made this video was so I'd have the footage of disassembly for my own benefit ;) Just about ANY machine you get should be serviceable in my opinion. Thanks for watching!
You said you like a nice finish. What I would suggest, if you are willing to do the leg work, is to drive the spindle directly from the motor. Takes a bit of thought but not complicated. 2 gears with 1:4 ratio (one at the back of the spindle, one on the motor), 100 to 1500rpm. With the factory setup the finish will be acceptable, at best. You can tighten up the carriage, compound etc. but that 2 speed gearing system will show up in your work no matter what.
That's a really good point, I'm glad you mentioned it! It never occured to me before but it makes total sense that the 2 speed gear train would account for some of those random jitters I get in my surface finish. Thanks for pointing that out!
Those bearings are not to be greased like automotive wheel bearing. 40 to 50 percent fill on lathe taper bearings. Best grease is Kluber for lathe bearings.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Yeah! Real disappointing that the spindle gears are plastic and like to lose teeth, but the machine is a real solid item after the upgrades! Thanks for watching!!
+Practical Renaissance. the Plastic gears are a sort of half-assed safety thing. they figured that if something was to bind the spindle, better the plastic gears shred than something that could trash the entire machine.
well done, nice job and video reportage. mine is very similar and was provided with a 400w motor, some have 250w. now I've changed to a three phase motor from a washing machine, driven with a toshiba inverter. with this vector inverter I can double the top turning speed and keep constant speed under load. your video will be my guide for metal gear replacement as I've broken them too. i bought a rpm counter from china and I will appreciate if you can send me a close picture of your speed sensor mount, so to install it as best as I can, thanks. I woud suggest to put a thin metal plate bolted to carriage, to protect guides from chips, helps a lot to keep saddle clean after each job and prolong saddle lifetime.
At 10.50 you show a screw stuck, it most ,likely was the cause of the stripped gears and also could of stripped the belt. I would call it poor quality control. It goes to show that if possible it would be a good idea to strip the lathe down and reassemble it to make sure that doesn't happen. I know that it is not for everyone to strip a lathe down. Great video, thanks :)
Hi, Great video on changing to metal gears. I looked at the link you provided and the gears are for G8688 not the G0765. Are the gears interchangeable?
Like I mentioned on one of your other vids, you have come along way brother. Well done. I like your passion. Keep up the good work and I will keep watching.
You can buy a cheap press for under $150. Helps pressing in/out bearings.... What's the size of the bearings? Are they easy/cheap to get? I also heard that straight edge gears in the gearbox don't run so smooth, which can be seen in the finish: what's your opinion on that?
Hi, you make nice videos but in this video the part when you assamble the gears I can see clear were is the right position , do you have a other video? The reason is Idecide to changethe plastic gears for metal gears but I don't know how to put it together anymore.😂 thank you for share your videos.
I would keep an eye on those bearings. It looks like your grease job was less than subpar. You need to pack the grease deep inside the bearing by putting a large amount in the palm of your hand. Then take your bearing and slap it repetitively until you see the grease coming out the top and the bearing...
Wow, this is a Grizzly? I saw a video on another channel about a Chinese mini lathe and don’t much difference other than extra plastic gears! What’s your input between this and the Chinese ones? Thank you for this video.
Great video. I'm waiting on shipment of this lathe and want to have these replacement parts on hand to do the upgrade if and when something breaks. Have you listed the Little Machine Shop part numbers somewhere. Where did you get the roller bearings?
can you take facing cuts on your lathe? i have a lathe thats pretty much the same as yours but when i face aluminum it chatters as a rumblin leaving a spirale pattern it will cut length wise just fine but wont face even with extremely short stickouts
Can we take off the back plate from the spindle? i need to replace bigger backplate for my 4" chuck in order not to put adopter which makes too heavy and lot of machining plate and centering holes.. pls i want to know if possible. thank you.
Why no molybdenum disulfate grease?? :'( Also... if your removing metal shafts under pressure, better to place in fridge to make the shaft slightly shrink. :D Old bearings, what! No NSK? I sad now.. :'( I always thought about using gun oil for rails. Tends to be pretty viscous, and they have water-resistant types as well. Those gears for the belt look like delrin, why not switch to carbon fiber infused gates belt? Hrm! You can use a SI Belt Meter to measure the tension on a belt, I think you put in the length between the two pulleys, and it calculates the tension via frequency after pulling on the belt, with a vibration/optical sensor.
i was gonna get one but the plastic gears seem like a nightmare and also if i set up in corner of apt there is gonna be oil spray n smell everywhere ,,,really lame how its all plastic gears so thank you for your upload
It's not that bad. I got involved with pen making and had wood chips everywhere. My only solution was to buy a wood lathe and put it on stand that I could wheel outdoors when I use it.
Nice upgrade! Is grease the recommended lubricant for the cross slide and compound? I've always heard that grease is a no no on the lathe, just non detergent Motor oil.
+Tater79bj Yeah I misspoke in the video; I do use a very light coat of grease on the gibs (I have no idea if this is a bad idea, I was taught to grease things that slide and oil things that rotate) but otherwise I use way oil on the cross slide and compound. Great catch!
+Practical Renaissance Ok, It just made me curious. I almost bought this same lathe, and after seeing what you have done with it, I kind of wish I had. Did the bearing upgrade come in a kit?
Hi, Great video! Can you tell me what's the specification of your pulley belt (width, number of teeth, etc) or if you have any markings on it? Thanks and cheers!
+sufyanbs Yeah it's this one: littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1105&category=5 should have all the dimensions you need, not sure about markings as its buttoned up in the machine now
Hi Carl, I have the A2ZCNC qctp and it works OK but it's all aluminum and to be honest I'm not a fan of it. Given the choice I'd go with one of the chinese Phase II steel qctps that use a wedge locking system instead of the piston style. Hope this helps!
Thank you! Yeah, the gear I replaced in this lathe was the same as the one that had stripped out badly in my first lathe, it's definitely a weak point in the design.
So, It looks as though I killed the low gear on my G0765, will the parts listed in your description, mine is less than a month old, I have emailed grizzly, but would like to solve this problem permanently. thank you for your time.
+Robert Chou I don't know, I don't have one so I wouldn't know which one to tell you to get; my best guess would be to find one on eBay or through another vendor and get a 4" chuck adaptor from Little Machine Shop. Best of luck with it!
Little Machine Shop has 4" & 5" 4-jaw chucks, just remember to get the back plate that fits the mini. I chose the 5" (non self centering) because it was the only one that had a large enough through hole to match the through hole in the spindle. I guess you know that the self centering 4-jaw chucks are more expensive, and they lose the advantage of holding odd shaped pieces.
Folks, these lathes should really be viewed as kits. Disassemble and at least clean out before use. You can find casting sand in them as well as the odd screw ..... The product components are not too bad for the price - plastic gears excepted, it's the assembly by low level labour that lets them down. BobUK.
The reason that the motor gear didn't have a set screw is because some of the chinese lathe motor gears, like my Cummins, are kept on the shaft by a "c" clip.
I'd like to buy myself one of these little lathes...and I don't even really know how to use one. Obviously, it looks like it would be a smart idea to just replace those plastic drive gears right from the git-go (so I went ahead and bookmarked LittleMachineShop.com!). Thank you for this very informative video. Learned a lot from it.
im going to buy a mini lathe just like what you are using. is there a possibility that the lathe im going to buy has a plastic gear also? and if so where can i purchase the metal gear? thank you.. God bless
if you get a 7x lathe like this one then yeah it will most likely have plastic gears. I got replacement gears from littlemachineshop.com and links are in the description
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well it's a lathe th-cam.com/users/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
a trick for getting the first tapered cone bearing on is to place the shaft in the freezer overnight then place the bearing in an oven somewhere between 200-300 degrees F (just enough to expand the steel but not enough to affect the tempering) for a little while it should slip right on easily
Dude! I'm a septuagenarian awaiting the arrival of our lathe! You are an excellent instructor and are appreciated. Our Pugs really liked this video!
When you change out the ball bearings for the tapered rollers, the spindle shaft gears are free to float back and forth 3mm. This can cause a less than full contact between the input shaft gears and the spindle shaft gears. I used the 30mm wide plastic spacer to make two 8.8mm wide spacers to replace the original spacers (7.5mm wide) inside the headstock on the spindle shaft. The extra couple of tenths allow for a little clearance between the gears and bearings. Also, I made a new spacer to fit between the roller bearing and the spanner nut out of aluminum 28mm wide. The original plastic spacer (which was kind enough to donate itself for the two gear spacers) is to "plastic" to use for the spindle bearing preload as it easily deforms.
Thank you, I've been searching for this information as I'm about to do the same upgrade on my machine but also machine and install a hi-low layshaft as my lathe doesn't have one from factory, I'm planning on making the spacers on the lathe before stripping it down.
a quick way to grease bears is to put the grease and bearing in a zip lock bag and close it up and work the grease into the bearings with your hands. This is much less messy way of doing it.
Awesome job man, one thing worth mentioning. I don't think you have enough grease "inside" those bearings, if you look up the old school trick of packing bearings by putting a dollop of grease in your palm and pressing the bearing into it from the outside face until it squeezes through the gap then you know you have enough for a long period of time. It's a mechanic trick and is used for wheel bearings on older vehicles.
ParsedOut
yeah i second that. I use the same trick your talking about when I do automotive wheel bearings because they are the same. but yeah def need more grease
I disagree, the amount of grease looks about right to me. It is a pain to strip and rebuild a high speed precision spindle with the bearings preloaded correctly, then upon testing, find it's overheating so you have to strip it again. If packed too much, the grease lubricates ok, but there is not enough air space to disperse heat. I pretty much do my wheel bearings the same way as you guys though.
I do not mean to seem rude but please do some research and you will find that your thought is 110% wrong!!
Possibly try a Molly grease simlar to CV grease its a 70/30 blend of grease and oil makes it slippery as hell but extremely heat and pressure resistant, seen it used in farming equipment and at 800-1300 rpm it hangs on possibly be a better alternative grease for these lathes bearings. For me my lathe has oil feed to bearings so little bit of #32 machine oil and we all good
Molybdenum grease is generally not recommended for ball and roller bearings, where there is no sliding. You normally find it on CV joints where there is static sliding.
There is a reason that the original bearings were deep groove ball bearings -- they are sealed. That keeps out the chips, metal dust and carbide flakes that are generated right there. Replacing those bearings with open ones means that you now must frequently re-grease the bearings, not for lubrication but because a thick grease layer is the only thing protecting the bearing from chewing itself up. Ignore the recommendations for optimal grease fill, or viscosity for RPM. Think of the grease application like old-school chassis lube -- you need to inject fresh clean grease frequently to force the contaminated surface grease away.
the way to grease the type of bearings , is put a dab of the grease in youre palm and press the bearing intoo it , you want to press the grease in between the rollers and the cage
And that is why its called "Packing the bearing".....
Just in the process of commissioning my new 7X14 now and itemizing all the upgrades I would need to give the lathe top performance and precision "out of the gate" so to speak. This was as excellent video - thanks
Watching this video I thought I'd mention they make new belt and pulley set that give you more reduction they claim 40% more power. I believe the pulleys are metal too. Google 1.5x7 belt brings it up and it's about $40 (not sold by littlemachineshop) I plan on doing it to my lathe just thought I'd share this info
Thought I might mention that some of the fellas noted that if You bolt the lathe to a 1/2" steel plate as a mounting base that it stiffens it up considerably and further reduces vibration and smoothes the cutting action as well.
Underrated necessity for a bench-top lathe
Nice use of an AR-15 armorer's wrench!
I converted my head stock to hold oil best thing I ever did it was easy threaded a little sight glass . I also bought the upgraded gear kit all brass. But man if you don't lap them it is loud . Love my little guy . Be sure to use SHARP carbide tools and you can turn put nice work. Also I upgraded the tool rest screws to bearings on the trust washers trust me that is a huge difference later 😁👍
Very informative, thanks for sharing. You motivated me to upgrade mine. One caveat: I ordered the timing pulley from LMS & was a little surprised/disappointed to discover it's plastic.
hmmm? LMS HiTorque 7x16 Mini Lathe sounding like a good value considering the upgrades already built in. If it wasn't for shipping costs.
The first and most important step is to bolt it DOWN to a heavy table. If the lathe is free to rock you are not getting precision out of it, it's that simple.
I have done the metal gears and 16 inch bed swap all is well lots of time on mine since.
Great informative instructional video!
I hear you about the metal gears from Little Machine Shop. I have a Micro Mark 7x16 that doesn't have a 2-speed gearbox, but one day I was stupid enough to turn it on when both the power feed and the carriage lock were engaged. I turned it off immediately, but after that I heard a "click-click" sound whenever it was running. I couldn't see anything wrong until after I pulled the gears and found half a tooth broken off on one of the 80 tooth gears. That's when I ordered a set of metal gears from LMS. I replaced only the broken gear, holding the other metal gears in reserve until the next time that I forget what I'm doing. I don't know if there would be more noise running a metal gear against another metal gear.
When I bought the lathe I also bought the "Tweaks & Enhancements Kit" and the "Tooling Package" from LMS and have never been sorry that I did.
Thank God for LMS, and thank you for the instructional video.
That AR armorers wrench came in handy.
Because he's working on an assault lathe.
David Green quick ban it!
I remember when my gears broken and I replaced them that the high torque gear was close to the edge of headstock. I flipped them and had the crank reversed and that seemed to help a lot! Nice upgrade you made! Congrats.
I like modding, if it have 2 bearings on the chuck side it would become even more sturdy.
Awesome vid!! I’m getting ready to replace my spindal gears with metal and also upgrading the bearings as well! I didn’t see in your discription a part link for the spindal spacer though?! Could you update or post the part number please!!?
Thanks and appreciate your time for making this vid!!
hey , just wanted to mention you not meant to spin the chuck without anything clumped in the jaw as the jaws tend to unscrew and fling out of the chuck just a heads up
Look up on how to pack tapered roller bearings. The grease should be in between the inner race and the bearing cage.
what REALLY impressed me here was how those plastic gears magically changed into STEEL ones ...! WOW - alchemy
Two thoughts - thank God for people like you who take the time to make these videos that help so many people. And, are you crazy to completely disassemble that lathe? How can you figure out where everything goes back in? I know my old brain couldn't keep track. Hopefully, the owner's manual has an exploded diagram that you followed.
Hehe, like anything else, once you get to putting it back together stuff starts making sense. Plus, half the reason I made this video was so I'd have the footage of disassembly for my own benefit ;) Just about ANY machine you get should be serviceable in my opinion. Thanks for watching!
00а
Trashed my gears last night. Thanks for the video.
The AR-15 armorers wrench made me chuckle....
You said you like a nice finish. What I would suggest, if you are willing to do the leg work, is to drive the spindle directly from the motor. Takes a bit of thought but not complicated. 2 gears with 1:4 ratio (one at the back of the spindle, one on the motor), 100 to 1500rpm. With the factory setup the finish will be acceptable, at best. You can tighten up the carriage, compound etc. but that 2 speed gearing system will show up in your work no matter what.
That's a really good point, I'm glad you mentioned it! It never occured to me before but it makes total sense that the 2 speed gear train would account for some of those random jitters I get in my surface finish. Thanks for pointing that out!
I just bought this lathe, this helps so much!
Those bearings are not to be greased like automotive wheel bearing. 40 to 50 percent fill on lathe taper bearings. Best grease is Kluber for lathe bearings.
That was quite a lot of improvement to that little Grizzly. I was surprised to see the plastic gears.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Yeah! Real disappointing that the spindle gears are plastic and like to lose teeth, but the machine is a real solid item after the upgrades! Thanks for watching!!
+Practical Renaissance. the Plastic gears are a sort of half-assed safety thing. they figured that if something was to bind the spindle, better the plastic gears shred than something that could trash the entire machine.
well done, nice job and video reportage.
mine is very similar and was provided with a 400w motor, some have 250w.
now I've changed to a three phase motor from a washing machine, driven with a toshiba inverter.
with this vector inverter I can double the top turning speed and keep constant speed under load.
your video will be my guide for metal gear replacement as I've broken them too.
i bought a rpm counter from china and I will appreciate if you can send me a close picture of your speed sensor mount, so to install it as best as I can, thanks.
I woud suggest to put a thin metal plate bolted to carriage, to protect guides from chips, helps a lot to keep saddle clean after each job and prolong saddle lifetime.
At 10.50 you show a screw stuck, it most ,likely was the cause of the stripped gears and also could of stripped the belt. I would call it poor quality control. It goes to show that if possible it would be a good idea to strip the lathe down and reassemble it to make sure that doesn't happen. I know that it is not for everyone to strip a lathe down. Great video, thanks :)
Hi, Great video on changing to metal gears. I looked at the link you provided and the gears are for G8688 not the G0765. Are the gears interchangeable?
Like I mentioned on one of your other vids, you have come along way brother. Well done. I like your passion. Keep up the good work and I will keep watching.
+Arock PCB Thanks! Means a lot, and I really appreciate your viewership!
Listening to Abom while working on your lathe.....Nice!
Receiving my G0765 tomorrow. I had to wait 3 days. :)
You should not use tapered roller bearings. You should be using angular contact ball bearings.
You removed the balancing screw at 10:50 :-)
I know how combo gear got sheared off - just did it :) drive carriage into chuck, block chuck and voila :)
thanks for disassembly instructions
Grizzly had me send them the headstock and they replaced the gears when they stripped. If it happens again I will go metal.
some project bet you are a machine repairman, eventually I'll have to learn to do it and thanks for your instructions it will be a big help
Fantastic little lathe will look into getting one . Why did you not replace the last plastic gear with a metal one for the belt ? Thanks
Whats the largest diameter the chucks on little guys will hold? Think 65mm stock will fit?
sure you can chuck it up. 50mm best grip but flip the jaws around and much bigger, something like 90mm
On the Grizzy G0765 motor you mentioned that is was a 3/4hp motor. Is that a brushed or brushless motor?
Thanks for the great work and effort amigo! I've been waiting for a great cut
Great work on the lathe!
You can buy a cheap press for under $150. Helps pressing in/out bearings....
What's the size of the bearings? Are they easy/cheap to get?
I also heard that straight edge gears in the gearbox don't run so smooth, which can be seen in the finish: what's your opinion on that?
You need to pack those bearings properly. Good video!
Torneiro moir arte do mundo amo
Muito
Hi, you make nice videos but in this video the part when you assamble the gears I can see clear were is the right position , do you have a other video?
The reason is Idecide to changethe plastic gears for metal gears but I don't know how to put it together anymore.😂 thank you for share your videos.
I would keep an eye on those bearings. It looks like your grease job was less than subpar. You need to pack the grease deep inside the bearing by putting a large amount in the palm of your hand. Then take your bearing and slap it repetitively until you see the grease coming out the top and the bearing...
+L. Noname Actually if you pack it right you get it oozing out of the top when you pack the bearings. NO slap needed.
Really informative video and a very nice job of editing as well. Thanks for posting it.
Thank you and thanks for watching it!
When it comes to tapered bearings look into how to grease car wheel bearings there similar
Sometimes not just similar but identical model numbers, so long as the dimensions match they're pretty standard across industry.
Wow, this is a Grizzly? I saw a video on another channel about a Chinese mini lathe and don’t much difference other than extra plastic gears! What’s your input between this and the Chinese ones?
Thank you for this video.
Lol I can hear you watching Abom in the background.
Seriously what a tool
Can you use a mini-lathe like this to build a larger & more capable lathe?
Incredibly informative and well done! Subscribed!
Great video. I'm waiting on shipment of this lathe and want to have these replacement parts on hand to do the upgrade if and when something breaks. Have you listed the Little Machine Shop part numbers somewhere. Where did you get the roller bearings?
Oh I forgot I broke the split nut cam I had one made of D2 lol it works awesome.
Does Grizzly sell metal gear replacements?
can you take facing cuts on your lathe? i have a lathe thats pretty much the same as yours but when i face aluminum it chatters as a rumblin leaving a spirale pattern it will cut length wise just fine but wont face even with extremely short stickouts
Great job. May have to try that upgrade in the future.
Excellent video! Would you buy this lathe again, or would get a different model? Thanks do much for your answer!
Can we take off the back plate from the spindle? i need to replace bigger backplate for my 4" chuck in order not to put adopter which makes too heavy and lot of machining plate and centering holes.. pls i want to know if possible. thank you.
I don't see a part number for the replacement steel gears ..... Googled them - back ordered ....
Sounds like these little lathes are pretty labor intensive.
They are a lathe kit with the parts thrown together. With some work they can be turned into a working machine.
Why no molybdenum disulfate grease?? :'(
Also... if your removing metal shafts under pressure, better to place in fridge to make the shaft slightly shrink. :D
Old bearings, what! No NSK? I sad now.. :'(
I always thought about using gun oil for rails. Tends to be pretty viscous, and they have water-resistant types as well.
Those gears for the belt look like delrin, why not switch to carbon fiber infused gates belt? Hrm!
You can use a SI Belt Meter to measure the tension on a belt, I think you put in the length between the two pulleys, and it calculates the tension via frequency after pulling on the belt, with a vibration/optical sensor.
i was gonna get one but the plastic gears seem like a nightmare and also if i set up in corner of apt there is gonna be oil spray n smell everywhere ,,,really lame how its all plastic gears so thank you for your upload
+power moves Yeah chips and swarf get everywhere no matter how big of a lathe you got! Thanks for watching!!
It's not that bad. I got involved with pen making and had wood chips everywhere. My only solution was to buy a wood lathe and put it on stand that I could wheel outdoors when I use it.
Do you get the cutting tools. Bits and tool poste wit the lathe
Do I hear Abom in the background of a video about an Abom-sized lathe?
Abom in the background.... Too funny
Nice upgrade! Is grease the recommended lubricant for the cross slide and compound? I've always heard that grease is a no no on the lathe, just non detergent Motor oil.
+Tater79bj Yeah I misspoke in the video; I do use a very light coat of grease on the gibs (I have no idea if this is a bad idea, I was taught to grease things that slide and oil things that rotate) but otherwise I use way oil on the cross slide and compound. Great catch!
+Practical Renaissance Ok, It just made me curious. I almost bought this same lathe, and after seeing what you have done with it, I kind of wish I had. Did the bearing upgrade come in a kit?
+Tater79bj There may be kits but I just purchased the parts individually from little machine shop, the links are all in the description to this video.
Nice upgrades. Wondering about the QCTP upgrade: what brand do you have and was it an easy swap?
Can you give a link to the tapered roller bearings... Cheers
Google: Little machine Shop #2822, and #4957. #4957 are the ones that Mr. Chris Wood (LMS), recommends, (I'd go with his opinion!!). Gb bg
Thanks good vid. I will check out more.
Hi,
Great video! Can you tell me what's the specification of your pulley belt (width, number of teeth, etc) or if you have any markings on it? Thanks and cheers!
+sufyanbs Yeah it's this one: littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1105&category=5 should have all the dimensions you need, not sure about markings as its buttoned up in the machine now
Apparently, like race cars, the only reason these machines are sent to you assembled is for shipping convenience...
hey jeff,
what kind of qctp are you using and how's it working for you? I have the same lathe.
Hi Carl, I have the A2ZCNC qctp and it works OK but it's all aluminum and to be honest I'm not a fan of it. Given the choice I'd go with one of the chinese Phase II steel qctps that use a wedge locking system instead of the piston style. Hope this helps!
Great video helps me !!😊 the tool that you use to undo were do I get one thks
Hi. Great vid! Have you noticed the steel gears are louder than the plastic? I just did mine and can really hear the difference.
My question is if the gears doesn't strip what else will happen ? Something bad has got to happen to strip the gears ?
Is there any hope of replacing this motor with a 3-phase and adding a VFD drive?
Are the metal gears louder than the plastic ones when running?
I'm very impressed that you took this on and conquered. Is the repair that was needed before Grizzly replaced your lathe?
Thank you! Yeah, the gear I replaced in this lathe was the same as the one that had stripped out badly in my first lathe, it's definitely a weak point in the design.
So, It looks as though I killed the low gear on my G0765, will the parts listed in your description, mine is less than a month old, I have emailed grizzly, but would like to solve this problem permanently. thank you for your time.
+Practical Renaissance, can you recommend a 4" self centering 4 jaw chuck that will fix the Grizzly g0765?
+Robert Chou I don't know, I don't have one so I wouldn't know which one to tell you to get; my best guess would be to find one on eBay or through another vendor and get a 4" chuck adaptor from Little Machine Shop. Best of luck with it!
+Practical Renaissance thank you!
Little Machine Shop has 4" & 5" 4-jaw chucks, just remember to get the back plate that fits the mini. I chose the 5" (non self centering) because it was the only one that had a large enough through hole to match the through hole in the spindle.
I guess you know that the self centering 4-jaw chucks are more expensive, and they lose the advantage of holding odd shaped pieces.
I wonder why you didnt make the gears? That would be a cool video. making the gears that will replace the gears used to make those gears lol
Awesome results! Great job!
Folks, these lathes should really be viewed as kits. Disassemble and at least clean out before use. You can find casting sand in them as well as the odd screw ..... The product components are not too bad for the price - plastic gears excepted, it's the assembly by low level labour that lets them down. BobUK.
Which tapered bearings did you use?
Still using this lathe? Anymore improvements/tips?
what was your cost to go with the metal gears and new bearings?I have one exactly like your machine and have been thinking of doing the change over.
The reason that the motor gear didn't have a set screw is because some of the chinese lathe motor gears, like my Cummins, are kept on the shaft by a "c" clip.
I'd like to buy myself one of these little lathes...and I don't even really know how to use one. Obviously, it looks like it would be a smart idea to just replace those plastic drive gears right from the git-go (so I went ahead and bookmarked LittleMachineShop.com!).
Thank you for this very informative video. Learned a lot from it.
Anybody know if the 16” bed is the same as the one for the 8x16 lathes? Or are they completely unrelated?
I'm about to order this lathe, what do you think of privatively changing out the parts?
Probably not a terrible idea honestly, judging by other comments I'm not the only one experiencing stripped gears!
Why?
Applied grease liberally
Did you fall to the ground and scream at the sky?
I’m trying to do this upgrade but I can’t remove the top shaft lol
nice video! solid upgrade.
+Josh Gallant Thank you! Thanks for watching!
im going to buy a mini lathe just like what you are using. is there a possibility that the lathe im going to buy has a plastic gear also? and if so where can i purchase the metal gear? thank you.. God bless
if you get a 7x lathe like this one then yeah it will most likely have plastic gears. I got replacement gears from littlemachineshop.com and links are in the description
thanks for the reply God bless
7x14 lathe now with 32mm spindel bore
@t
wow, mine has 18,5mm in origin and I had to make it to 20,1mm