Mini Lathe Carriage Saddle Clamp Upgrade - with ball bearings + bonus vinyl cutting project
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ส.ค. 2024
- This video is how I upgraded the carriage clamps to use individually adjustable ball bearings on the MINI LATHE. (MUCH) More information below!
Please like and subscribe if this was helpful!
Stuff from this video:
Transfer Punches: amzn.to/2pQ4oGi
Set Screws: amzn.to/2q9YgcZ
Loctite: amzn.to/2ps8Mes
Tap and Die Set: amzn.to/2pBk6SB
Vinyl Cutter: amzn.to/2pQNLZg
Vinyl: amzn.to/2qCprgC
Lathe: amzn.to/2nVBrEc
Stuff on the lathe:
Quick Change Tool Holder: amzn.to/2oZtFee
Tailstock Drill Chuck: amzn.to/2pmE0jX
Lathe tools:
Boring Bar: amzn.to/2pmy0b1
Carbide Tools: amzn.to/2oRZWax
Parting Tool: amzn.to/2nVCeW1
Center Bits: amzn.to/2oRRV5n
Drill Bits: amzn.to/2oz9W76
Other stuff:
Cutting oil: amzn.to/2ofkPaY
Mini Lathe troubleshooting guide: littlemachinesh...
Controller board wiring configuration: imgur.com/KIEzu92
The real version of the motor controller: amzn.to/2orw43F
Datasheet for the KBIC-120: www.galco.com/...
Super nice guy who repairs the controller boards: olduhfguy.com/
Music:
/ jeff-kaale
/ andrewapplepie
/ dyallas
/ maxzwell
/ joakimkarud
![ทางเดินชีวิต - ธีเดช ทองอภิชาติ x อ.ไข่ มาลีฮวนน่า [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1f3wcG16dd4/mqdefault.jpg)
I know this seemed like a good idea and you are very ingenious working with the tools you have. I'm in the same position. However, I hope no one does this to their lathe.
The following information doesn't just apply to bearings but also how tool geometry affects tool pressure and can also be applied to many designs you may come up with for parts or jigs. It's a part of learning machining so I hope you'll keep reading.
It comes down to pressure, pounds of force per square inch of surface area (PSI), and simple mathematical principles. Consider the surface area of a ball at the point of contact with a flat plane. Ideally it's an infinitely small area (which would lead to an infinitely large pressure at the point of contact) but practically there is some plastic deformation in the ball and the plane.
Let's be generous and say it's 0.01 square inches with only 1 pound of force applied on the lathe carriage. That's (1/0.01 = 100 PSI) at the point of contact. In practice, the force would be much larger. Even a force as small as 10 pounds would apply 1000 PSI at the point of contact. Now, granted, you have more that one ball. However with 5 balls, that's still 200 PSI per ball and the forces are going to be considerably more than 10 pounds.
Consider an area of 0.001 square inches, that's (1/0.001 = 1000 PSI). With 10 pounds of force that's 10,000 PSI. With 5 balls, that's still 2,000 PSI per ball. Add to that the fact that the balls aren't rotating AND it's hardened steel against soft cast Iron. The more ball bearings that can freely rotate the better and, as mentioned by others, the bearings should ride against a hardened race instead of the soft cast iron.
The point is that the smaller the surface area, the larger the pressure will be. This design will most likely leave dimples and wear a groove all along the ways. Conversely, the larger the surface area, the smaller the pressure will be. That's why the ways are ground flat. The point of scraping is to give a place for a thin film of oil to exist between the 2 ground surfaces, but the surface area is still very large and oil is considered non compressible. It's like having millions of ball bearings.
Exactly.
Nobody should follow this idjut. He can't even work out how to use a bandsaw properly, and swaps to abrasive disks to cut aluminum 😢
Man, you are living dangerously with some of the techniques that you use in the shop.
I appreciate the ingenuity put forth in making the blocks and the bearing assemblies, but I can't help but think that the hardened balls are going to gouge the ways since there is no bearing race to complement them, and there is no way for the balls to really roll instead of grind across the surface.
Hopefully I'm wrong.
You're probably not wrong but that was something I considered going in. I'm going to keep an eye on it but at least in the mean time, the lathe works so much better.
i saw another fellow use brass balls on a carriage 'stiffening' project - would they work as well/better? or do you think they would deform and become useless i wonder?
If I were to use this method, my choice then would be grinding a flat side onto the balls. They aren`t turning anyway.
What is song name at about 3:50
For the reasons you mention I would never never do exactly what was done here. However, with some slight modifications this general idea could work really well. If larger diameter sections of a bronze dowel/bronze roundstock were used in place of the ball bearings, that might just work really well. Though the dowel sections would have to fit fairly tightly into the hole so they didn't shift around, so this means that the holes could only be tapped part way through, leaving enough smooth bore for the dowel sections to fit into.
Instead, a long bronze strip could actually be used as well, as long as it was some how held in position by a recess in the plate, or with pins, or something like that. Just something that would allow it to be adjustable vertically via the screws, but still confining it's movement horizontally.
You got Moxie kid. Most of the guys who criticize you probably wouldn't even tempted to do what you did. So don't take it to heart. You did a good job.
Yes, at least he has the heart to attempt something, even if it's wrong, and that's how we learn.....
I am loving these videos!! I just got a 1967 south bend 9" lathe as a high school graduation present, and the sort of beginner projects like thumb screws are just what I needed to learn the ropes!
That's awesome! and thanks so much!
Please use my videos as inspiration and combine it with some of the others on TH-cam who are truly experts on these lathes - I'm just learning as well and don't want to end up unintentionally teaching bad habits :)
I applaud your desire to learn. It takes humility and some courage to show your work as you learn. It certainly invites others to want to help in positive ways.
Most of these mini lathes have brass plates that slide on the underside of the ways. They're adjusted to be just tight enough to have no play, but not so tight that they have a lot of wear. Brass is used because it slides well on the cast iron, yet is softer than the cast iron so it won't damage the ways.
The problem you will run into with your mod, as others have mentioned, is the concentration of pressure the hardened steel balls will put on the underside of the ways. Eventually they'll wear a groove in the cast iron which will require you to tighten them, which will then wear a deeper groove, repeating the cycle. It's unlikely that those balls will roll in their "sockets", but even if they did, they're probably hard enough that they'd still press a groove into the cast iron. More likely is that they'll try to roll, but bill grind against the set screws and develop pitting. The pitting will eventually meet up with the ways and then really do some damage (sharp edges of hardened steel, after all, are what we use to cut metal on these machines).
I'd recommend finding some 3mm brass stock that you can place between the balls and the ways. Grind some detents into the brass stock for the balls to press into and sand the top of the brass stock flat and smooth where it meets the underside of the ways. That'll provide a much more rigid setup that won't damage the cast iron and it'll hold its position far longer as well.
For making flat surfaces I'd start by watching Dan Gelbart (all of his videos are essentially a requirement for new machinists):
th-cam.com/video/cwdoUjynpEk/w-d-xo.html
Hey Michael,
Thanks so much for watching and taking the time to comment - I expect them to eventually be a problem but I was trying to make it better than it was for the first iteration. The biggest issue I have with the brass bars is that they still adjust in the same way or with shims and I just don't like the tediousness or quality of how that works.
I will be keeping an eye on the bottom of the ways and my next iteration will probably move away from the bearings, but in the mean time the improvement has been tremendous. I really like your idea of putting a brass block above the bearings. Another current limitation is I don't have a decent way to make flat surfaces.
I've seen Dan Gelbarts videos before as well - tons of great information.
Thanks again!
Always nice to see people make things with the tools they own. Not everyone has access to high end machinery nor is a professional machinist.
Weather it works in the long run or not, at least you tried.
Good job dude!
The tool he owns that is most capable of making this part IS the tool he is making it for
A unique and well executed solution for a common problem. 3ish years later I would like to know how well it has survived the test of time.
The lathe ways are destroyed by now. Nobody should EVER do what is shown in this video.
Great ingenuity but this is a bad approach. Not only are the balls too hard, they're essentially point contacts and you'll run into trouble with both excessive wear and possibly Brinelling. I suggest going back to flat plates and using shims to set the clearance.
Also, those clearances are way too big. For comparison I just checked my 6" Atlas lathe that was built in 1941. At the most worn place on the bed I got half a thou (0.013 mm) movement at the rear and one and a half thou at the front -- which is too much, I'll be taking some shims out of the front soon (this lathe was built with laminated shims in such places that can be peeled off a layer at a time as things wear. I think the layers are a thou thick).
Too-large clearances will contribute to chatter, tool dig-in, poor finish, maybe poor dimensional control.
What is song name at about 3:50
I was going to comment the exact same thing, But it seems you just beat me to it (By 3 years. :D ). The basic concept seems OKish, But I'd have made it with the ball bearings pushing onto flat brass "Gib strips" to spread the load (Not really gib strips if it's not in a dovetail, But the correct name eludes me at present).
Not sure if there's even enough clearance to the vertical carriage mounting bolts to retrofit this using what he's already got though.
Saw a nice sliding tapered gib block setup on TH-cam earlier today. The maker had done it using such basic equipment that I was stunned that he'd managed to build it with any real level of accuracy, But it looked REALLY well finished, and seemed to work perfectly.
@@Reman1975 Yes exactly, this Video is old now, Tim had some good ideas but this is Not a good design for improving on the factory bad design. Hopefully most people are not following this build, being honest from a mechanical perspective this design, the materials, fit and finish and execution unfortunately all get a poor over all rating.
Great idea to improve stability of carriage. Now the cross slide, these lathes are very prone to chatter due to lack of rigidity
Love the jaunty angle of the To Motor electrical socket. Gotta build character into stuff. I admire your determination.
I've been a machinist for 40 years. And I say "Well Done".
I was a little nervous because I get a bunch of comments that start off with credentials and tell me to jump off a bridge or something ha... I really appreciate it, thanks so much for watching and commenting!
I am sorry but any master Machinist would say HELL NO. I call bull shit you are not a machinist, definitely not with 40 years xp maybe 10 mins TH-cam machinist experience lol..
Like most have been saying A++ for effort but that setup is going to destroy your ways. @Michael Buffington
solution below is the correct way to do this.
What is song name at about 3:50
Description does not help.
Nice idea. Love to see people having a go at stuff. Not sure ball bearings on way is a gd idea. Some sort of brass adjustable gripper would have been less harsh
Nice bit of work Tim, I like your innovative approach to problem solving, great work
Thanks so much! I really appreciate it.
well done mate 🎉
Nice work.
Note the horizontal set screw can inadvertently tighten enough to bias the carrier backward direction can premature wear the V rails on the bed and carriage.
You own a lathe mild steel makes great transfer punches for aluminium and you can make them in ten minutes for a perfect fit to any size for aluminium brass etc.. and just a thought for next time, you have a metal cutting bandsaw you could have cut out the section a lot easier neater and less effort than with a grinder and files apart from those suggestions you did a great job and thank you for the ideas
Don't use an abrasive disc (or grinding wheel) on aluminum. The Al gets embedded in the wheel, expands from heat, then POW! Half your head is gone and you're in a closed casket. When a grinding wheel explodes it is neither subtle nor gentle.
Starting out this is how many of us have to do things. It sure makes me appreciate the tools and machines, as I slowly acquire them. I'm trying to acquire a 4x6 band saw myself, I spend a ton on cutting wheels and it just messy and noisy . Little by Little Ill get there! Nice video brother! I will be replicating this on my mini lathe!
Appears to be the same tools and construction methods used that the Chinese mini latches were originally built with
I have seen a drill press used as an ad hoc mill. all you might need is a precision table, which you could build. I look forward to seeing the finished product. Good luck 👍
You shouldn’t be grinding aluminum with an angle grinder, aluminum clogs the cutting/grinding wheels, and can cause them to shatter
a suggestion. when cutting alloy with an abrasive disc ,pre clog the cutting edge with bees wax. it cuts as clean as brass. no bogging or melting. just make sure you have safety glasses on. it slings wax.
Hi Tim , I realy enjoyed watching all your videos ,it realy gives me a great idea of how to modify and repair equipment and tools ,, tks Pal ..
that balls will rub grooves in the rail after some time i guess, i suggesto use real bearings instead. Best are needle bearings for that case (8mm ones). You forgot to say how bad was the movement before your build , 4mm ?
Thanks for the video. You demonstrate how we can upgrade our lathes.
He demonstrated exact how NOT to modify a lathe. Never do what is shown here. None of it, even how he cuts metal.
you rock! Keep doing what you do!
Though this exact improvement is... arguable. All’s been said in previous comments: one point contact, wearing off and so on. And .5 mm is huuuuge. I made it Steve Jordan’s way, only using steel plates instead of brass and got .05 play and that’s a lot too, but the lathe got tight spot near the chuck so it binds there being more tight. You should really consider switching to thick brass plates, search that. Btw, no milling required: just stock cut to length, drilled and tapped.
I love how he replaced trash, with trash
Nylon grubscrews might be a better solution than hardened steel ball bearings
ball bearings won’t wear as much
You remind me an other machinist channel. Before the mill were created, they used the lathe to do milling jobs. Did you knew that? You could have waited for the transfert punchs before making this video. And you could have found a lathe/mill vice attachement that replace the tool hollder on your mini lathe.
The idea on the dollar, the result on the cent. It's simple, the area of contact with the guides of the machine point, so the balls quickly gnaw through the grooves in them. And the guides of this machine are not hardened, and you will often tighten the screws. Here it is most expedient to install flat wedges of bronze.
With Respect from Russia...
Nice Upgrade, looking forward to seeing more!
you can actually use the router either on the table or handheld to cut aluminum very precisely, which is what I do since I also don;t have a mill
cut the bulk of the material out using the jigsaw / bandsaw / drill press, and then sneak fit or follow the straight edge / template to route the remaining uneven edge
The smoke when cutting aluminum is because the cuttings get stuck, due to the oil you use. cutting, tapping, drilling and turning aluminum (and bronze) you should have used methylated spirit, or dry no oil. tip from a metal worker. it's more for cooling than for lubrication.
Thanks, I'll try that!
What is song name at about 3:50
Description does not help.
oh by the way, that u shaped thingy there, you can use a jigsaw, i use it even for mild steel with no problems. takes a while but its still quicker than by hand. i also got myself a band file, that was really cheap and works great for purposes like that
Yeah, those probably both would have been better options! Maybe next time :)
I think I have seen suitable cabinet handles in the hardware department essentially the same as what you've made.
Enjoying these videos, I was thinking you could have used your lathe as a mill for this job.
Nice upgrade, I just watched a few of your lathe videos, I'm looking to get one after I move, thanks for sharing all the information.
Thanks for watching!
i think than the side bearing is useless, the v-groove is here to remove the left-right play, you just have to use bearing under the bed and when bearing "push down" the v-groove, all play his normally removed! ^^
Tim, You can put a small vise on the lathe compound and a end mill in the chuck and mill on the Lathe! LMS sells a vise mount Just for this.
Neat, I'll have to check that out - thanks!
cool concept, good job man. it was a little rough there for a minute with that angle grinder, but you pulled it off ;)
I got a milling attachment for my mini lathe just to get me by till I can afford a decent mill. It would have worked great for making these
complimenti ai fatto un vero affare con questo tornio
Comprato per aggiustarlo
bravo saluti
Nice work. Cutting aluminum with an abrasive disc doesn't work as well as just using a carbide blade with some wax on it. Ideally the blade would have a negative hook. I have access to UHMW scrap and use it for sliding surfaces. Seems to last a long time.
He could have cut the aluminium with the bandsaw. You know the bandsaw he started cutting with in the start of each part.
Super novel idea- I love it! Might try doing this on my own 7x12, maybe with some HDPE or roller bearings as well suggested in the comments.
Yeah agree! probably a piece of HDPE or teflon or brass between the ball bearings and ways would be perfect... and it would be so much nicer to adjust.
I think you are missing the point here...get rid of the balls and use a flat surface of uhmw ( the best wear material) Teflon is used a lot on big machines but doesn't have great compression strength
@@larryrestainer9949 use the original material, which was designed for the job. Adjust it properly... done.
What happens when you are cutting in the z direction and one of those ball bearings rolls over a chip?
Great video the only thing I would have done is use 5or 6 ball bearings equally spaced apart to distribute the force better a little bit of advice never cut aluminium with an abrasive disc it’s creates fine aluminium particles that when breathed in settle in the lungs causes long term respiratory problems in the future other than that I like the idea of the saddle plates you have made just a redesign on the use of ball bearings would be good all the best
The ball bearing use is Not a good design for the intended purpose. The balls contact area is too pointed not allowing the load to be spread out. The lathe ways are not hardened, over time the balls may cause irreparable damage. Whenever you want to reduce friction and wear you want contact between two surfaces to be the largest surface area possible. Those surfaces need to have smooth contact and slippery from either added lubrication or hard surface. Tim should reconsider this design and go back and re-do the poor factory Gib installation. Performance will be better and long term wear will be better.
Very good and cleaver job Thancks for share !!!
You make excellent videos.
Thanks so much!
What is song name at about 3:50
Description does not help.
Do the same on the back as you did on the front. Eliminate the side adjusters, they are doing more harm than good. You need down pressure on the carriage on front and back.
Certainly some ideas there, if not the specific execution.
There is a reason gibs are frequently made from brass.
Здравствуйте! Идея,конечно,хорошая,но площадь касания шариков маленькая,быстро появится лювт,в месте касания шариков на станине будет борозда.
4 years later, how is this working out still?
Great video!
Thanks!
I dont know the application for Loctite 242 or the special abilty but im pretty sure it wont harden out if you grease the contact surfaces for the screw at 14:37. Normally you degrease parts when you use glue on them. And i also think you dont need the saddle clamp on the side. Just use the other 2 to pull it down. The one on the side will just increase the wear on the triangle guide. In general i would rework this concept. It is too tight. Nice video, music and editing. Your effort is enorm.✌🖒
PHwaa thats some pretty trick stuff you did with that, Id reckon that maybe with all the mods you have done here when you get your Mill you may as well make a larger more precise Lathe!
Akieba lol
great video. please do not use an abrasive disk to cut aluminum the wheel can explode
Good little modification there. How has it lasted over the years ? Maybe I should do this to Warco WM180
sei genio ottimo!
Can't believe you used the bandsaw to cut the Ali, then turned to a grinder to remove the centre -butchery! Far better to have used the bandsaw, corner to corner then remove the remaining triangle for a better finish. You did similar with the bandsaw on the circular cut! Also oil isn't a good lubricant for working aluminium, WD40 or even turpentine substitute are better.
Another thing I would not use a metal abrasive shop saw to cut aluminum it has been said it can clog up and explode. You could use a carbide wood chop saw as a safer alternative. There is my 2 cents. And looks like he use tap magic in his defense.
Isn't the whole point of ways is to spread out the contact over a large area? Also, my understanding is that grease is always better for bearings than oil.
Won't spheres that are harder to mark the bus?
good job
Sorry did I miss it or didn't you state the size of the aluminium you used for this nice mod, also what size b/bearings did you use?
Don't worry about it. His concept is absolutely flawed. Read the other comments, and DO NOT do what is shown in this video.
when I listen to these videos, I pretend Napoleon dynamite is narrating.
Anyone suggest that you just get a third axis attachment while saving for a mill?
Why not just cut the 2 aluminum piece off at the bandsaw?
Thanks, Whats the name of the Ruler you have there? never seen one of them before.
Nice video! How did you get your angle grinder to effectively cut aluminum though, in my experience the blade gums up quickly with aluminum dust and stops cutting much at all. Thanks!
You should NEVER use an abrasive wheel to cut or grind aluminium.
Use a file to shape it, after rubbing with some chalk to stop the teeth clogging.
For cutting it, use a hacksaw. Or even a bandsaw like this guy used to make the initial cuts 😢
I would not recommend grease as a lubricant since it will trap particles and become a lapping compound.
Thanks! Someone else had commented that at some point and I have since switched to oil. If there's a particular kind you'd recommend, I'd love to hear it!
Not my area of expertise. On a side note some grinder dresser gibs used similar arrangements as your ball and set screw. With the addition of a tension spring between the screw and ball, by partially collapsing the spring you kept gib pressure and setting as the ball and ways wore.
I thought about something like that but I think even though the intention would be for the springs to keep the tension, it would end up being a sort of suspension for the ways carriage to bounce around on. Ideally you want it totally rigid so unless they were super stiff springs (to the point that they would probably not be useful as springs in this application) I think all it would do would be to introduce extra movement.
This will wear out the lathe tracks as the balls are harder than the track material. This will ruin the whole thing.
Ruin the whole thing might be a little dramatic - I'm keeping an eye on it... in the mean time it's way better than it was. Thanks for watching though!
TimNummy I forgot to congratulate you as for the series, the vídeos are very good. The one on the motor was great.
As for ruining, if the tracks get rough many of the uses of it will be loss. How about some brass bolts to replace the set screws and bearing balls? :)
Thanks! I appreciate that.
Eventually I'd like to get a mill and then make something proper.
Those balls are not taking any loading when in use and to move smoothly they can't be touching the underside of the ways, thus there will be no wear.
... why didn't you use the bandsaw to cut out most of that material? You already had the holes right there!
I give your mods about six months before you buy another lathe. No fault of the machine, just that no thought was put into area of contact. Maybe you have a total of a sixteenth of a square inch, if that much, against the full area of the flat gib you apparently didn't like. Hard balls against soft cast iron, oh, yeah.
Well it's been well over a year since I made this video and last I looked there weren't any noticeable marks.
you have little wear despite not because of it, this is because it's not an often worn surface, unless you use a rear parting toolpost or cut threads in reverse spindle rotation. some lathes don't have any bearing surfaces there.
"What's this extra hole?" --- For carriage lock.
Bravo Türkiye İzmir selamlar ve abonelik ❤
Also a mistake to put the back balls in, as your overriding the v at the front
Que trabajo mas sucio
is it have anti baklash nuts on lead screws? if not, then it will be good next step to level up your lathe
Nope but that's a good idea!
Clearly this is the next Clickspring :)
honest ?! I would not have done it that way, with the balls on the underside you only have one point contact, the forces that will work there are no longer distributed over the entire surface, there are better solutions. I do not go into that now as a German it is not easy for me to explain that in English.
I have the problem solved with brass and scrape as well as by adding shims or spy plate.
What is song name at about 3:50
"TINA, COME GET SOME HAM!"
What is song name at about 3:50
Ó canal ferreira motos estamos acompanhando tudo 🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷👍👍👍👍👍👍
I would have used Teflon blocks.
Half a mill play only …. back to the drawing board.
So just one question. Is it in the mail yet? Lol great work in my opinion.
01:09 grinding disk not cut off disk.
Gret job
What did you ever do about the tailstock not being exactly centered?
For the tailstock die holder (th-cam.com/video/0v06IauXoRY/w-d-xo.html) I had to turn a MT2 Morse Taper and so I spent some extra effort making sure it was aligned much more closely... th-cam.com/video/LzIMuZa8vEs/w-d-xo.html
I don't understand how this works. The bearings are on the side and bottom of the ways? They're not taking the full-on weight of the saddle. Does this actually work? Maybe I just don't understand your design.
Yep! it's similar to the way a roller coster works :)
Upgrade ?Jesus Christ...01:01..the band saw not good enough for the cross cut, 04:33 :why did you not use an axe for this. if you drilled 2 holes next to each other this would be enough clearance for the band saw blade. the extra hole is for the carriage stop.
Just curious, has three years taught you anything? Like slow down??
You could have cut out that U shaped piece with the band saw... much better than the angle grinder.
My bandsaw isn't very good. I should have used a coping saw or something similar.
Of course the band saw isn't very good...install proper blade and use the proper sfpm for aluminum you will be surprised with results. Use nylon tipped set screws get rid of hard balls, no gouging of softer cast iron
Two things. You need to make the switch to a cold cut chop saw. The time it saves in making a straight cut is worth it alone. Second while I think all of these upgrades are cool don't you think when you consider time and material costs you would have been better off buying a better lathe?
Agreed. And thanks - I think with the amount I've learned it's been totally worth it. The material costs for the upgrades have been minimal as most of the investment has been time. But also it's given me excuses to make a bunch of these videos and the response has been incredible so it's also been worth it just to share the knowledge and experience.
Although if someone asked me something like "I already know about lathes and I just want to plug it in and start making parts and don't care about making youtube videos, should I buy this lathe?" I'd say no and agree with a lot of the comments about other brand suggestions (Southbend, Atlas, etc.)
Fastest way to remove metal as I understand is with a saw or drill,
your voice is strikingly similar to napoleon dynamite.
What is song name at about 3:50
The sooner you ditch those " improvements " the better chances the lathe will not be damaged.
Look at how others have tackle this problem.
Like brass bearing.
I'm not that worried about it. It works way better now than it did and it will take the rest of my life to cause enough damage to be noteworthy. And even then, it will probably still work better than it did before. Thanks for watching and commenting though!
Would have been easier to cut the ally using just the bandsaw…
Отлично получилось!
Борозда от шариков в станине будет.
где шар стружкой подклинит и будет трение с броздой. Это же надо до такого додуматься?
@@elsteb3633 пока не попробует не узнает
What happens if you 3D print those parts instead?
These would probably end up breaking in a short time. 3D printing is really great but has it's limitations
Wouldn't it have been easier to make a big capitol " i " then cut it in half? Then all your cuts would have been from the outside and one cut up the middle to separate the two halves.
Ummm maybe? I see what you're saying. If I had a mill it would have been much different. This was actually a plan B design that I came up with after I already bought the material. The biggest challenge was the width of the lower piece is much wider than the top piece because it has to reach under the ways. So I would have had to file off a large amount of material from a pretty thick piece of stock to make it work that way. Thanks for the thought though!