If you take the float bowl off with the broken screw there should be enough screw projecting to either cut a hack saw cut across it and use a flat bladed screwdriver to get it out or grab the stub with a small pair of mole grips. Drill bits and carburettor metal rarely ends well. Also I always fill the pilot screw recess with a blob of heavy grease (or a blob of clear bathroom silicone sealer), it keeps the moisture away from the brass/aluminium interface and prevents galvanic corrosion and seized /broken pilot jets after a few winters of salty roads.
Screws buggered because people use Philips screwdrivers, Japanese screws are JIS, not Philips, invest in a decent set of JIS screwdrivers and you'll never look back, trust me, love the vids by the way👍👍
Yeah, makes a difference. Looking at it, the Allen socket bit of the screw is all but down to the threads on this one that broke... Bugger all meat in between the two
Great vid... Just wot i was waitng for...will see how it runs, before i do mine..if i get any problems i,ll be calling at your workshop...lol......have a cracking xmas...
E clips, not eclipse as that would be a bit dark... I got a load of those takeaway plastic tubs off the internet for jobs like stripping carbs, saves loosing bits. Also got a big ultrasonic bath I can get two carbs in at a time, amazing the amount of shite they get rid of.
A 100 main jet, 38 pilot would enable you to run pod filters and a full exhaust too for a lot less than 165. Edit: 2 turns out on the idle screw, 0.5mm spacer on the needle valves
Won't run as good as a complete set. Will run, yeah, but needles, spring etc. are needed for a good run too....but just saw, what's in the package...that's garbage...needs much more then needles and main jet
Just an observation but paperwork says e clip goes forth from top, but i think i see you counting 4 from bottom making the needle sit lower. Good video tho as looking to do my 27yr old blade
Thanks,another informative video showing all the steps you make them enjoyable to watch and have a laugh too.. Looking forward to seeing any improvement/gains if so I'll do mine too..Have a good Christmas Quicky.
Hey buddy, love your videos I’m in the middle of sorting my bandit out ,have you got a link for the pod filters? I can’t wait for the m unit blue to be installed I’ve got to do that too 😅
Thanks for watching matey. This is where I got the pod filters from - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134188373089?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9VuQqdmMQde&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_Hkr80rQ2a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Great video 👌 I've been researching cv carbs a bit recently as have pod filter on mine and it runs horribly, I'm going to go with velocity stack as it seems its all to do with the flow of the air and cv carbs do not like turbulent air at all, so a velocity stack smooths that out, obvs awful for the engine wear as is unfiltered air, I suppose the ideal would be a velocity stack with a pod filter on the end, is interesting stuff though.
Thanks for this vid, very useful reminder - I installed a stage 3 (from just bandits) about 3 years ago onto a 600 with aftermarket slip-on, ran well, sounds great. Then moved house and the bike was obviously dropped although the removal company denied all knowledge. However although there is a spark and the engine spins over no probs, the plugs are dry. Tried fuel straight into the carbs, still no start but the plugs were damp. Spark is good, all resistances within spec, any ideas please as my brain has stopped working. Thanks, regards
Just wondered if anyone can help please. 1997 Mk1 600 bandit. Stage 3 fitted. Cone filters fitted. Ran beautifully. Dropped onto r/h side by removal company. Handlebars bent, some other minor damage. Now it won't start. The plugs are dry. Carbs stripped and all jets removed and cleaned (twice), the float height is correct. New plugs fitted, coils resistance withing spec. Plugs sparking but weakish spark. Plug leads and connections all good. Signal generator housing full of oil. Even tried "easystart" Still nothing. Suggestions welcome please.
Yo yo just fitted 100 main jets in the 98 s and just over 100 in the other 2 carbs and got pod filter s 2 turns out but seem to back fire notice a little fuel out exhaust could I adjust the fuel mixture a little if so in or out
Everybody has to do that (broken screw) at least once. .lol...If you use your small butane torch and heat up the carb body around the screw ( only necessary on 1st time removal) then smack the crap out of the driver bit, with a med size ball pean hammer, then push down very hard while turning the bit and handle..they won't break ( also use PB Blaster spray) ..At this point, remove bowl, heat, spray, heat, smack remaining stud, and use vice grip (small size) and carefully remove..If it feels/starts to twist and break, repeat heat and spray sequence...If it still shears off, grind flush with slight dip in middle, drill out with bit just smaller then the threads, use dental pick to remove/curl out the threads remaining...AVOID screw extractors as if one of those breaks off, your screwed..left alone, the bowl will surely leak..so "gird your loins" and go for it...I know you can do it!..It helps if you support the corner with broken bolt, when you smack with hammer! It's a pain in the butt, but you can successfully do this!!..Picking out the threads can take hours to do..Also, the "pulse" you were talking about, also happens on the exhaust side, and the trick is to time it so the exhaust valve has a suction at the instant it starts to open (scavenge)..I wrote you a long time ago about running the bike rich and then cutting the length off right where the "exhaust smoke swirl) stops..(poor boys flow bench) ..I knew you could figure out the Pod filters!!. 🗽🇺🇸👍👍👍
Not sure on product number, but this is the eBay listing - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134188373089?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9VuQqdmMQde&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_Hkr80rQ2a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@QuickBikes my 98 1200 Bandit have the sensor to, but the top caps of the carbs are plane and inside is like schown in the menual of the kit just one hole to be drilled. Maybe it's because i'm from Germany , but never seen carbs like your's on a Bandit gv75a also in other Videos. Anyways i always enjoy your work , it give some idears but most of it is not Street legal in Germany. Ride save 🤘
If you take the float bowl off with the broken screw there should be enough screw projecting to either cut a hack saw cut across it and use a flat bladed screwdriver to get it out or grab the stub with a small pair of mole grips. Drill bits and carburettor metal rarely ends well. Also I always fill the pilot screw recess with a blob of heavy grease (or a blob of clear bathroom silicone sealer), it keeps the moisture away from the brass/aluminium interface and prevents galvanic corrosion and seized /broken pilot jets after a few winters of salty roads.
Thanks for the tip matey 😁
@@QuickBikes I agree about the broken screw, I was thinking could I grip it in a vice... interesting video as usual! 👍❤😊
Thank you matey 😁👍
fantastic pilot screw preventative maintenance advice man thanks
Screws buggered because people use Philips screwdrivers, Japanese screws are JIS, not Philips, invest in a decent set of JIS screwdrivers and you'll never look back, trust me, love the vids by the way👍👍
Yeah, makes a difference. Looking at it, the Allen socket bit of the screw is all but down to the threads on this one that broke... Bugger all meat in between the two
excellent mate been waiting for this one - cheers. :)
Thanks for watching matey 😁👍
Great vid... Just wot i was waitng for...will see how it runs, before i do mine..if i get any problems i,ll be calling at your workshop...lol......have a cracking xmas...
Thank you matey. Merry Christmas to you too 🎄😁👍
E clips, not eclipse as that would be a bit dark...
I got a load of those takeaway plastic tubs off the internet for jobs like stripping carbs, saves loosing bits. Also got a big ultrasonic bath I can get two carbs in at a time, amazing the amount of shite they get rid of.
I love the ultrasonic cleaner, dead handy bit of kit. Only trouble is that Jack still has it... I need to get that back... 😁
A 100 main jet, 38 pilot would enable you to run pod filters and a full exhaust too for a lot less than 165. Edit: 2 turns out on the idle screw, 0.5mm spacer on the needle valves
Won't run as good as a complete set. Will run, yeah, but needles, spring etc. are needed for a good run too....but just saw, what's in the package...that's garbage...needs much more then needles and main jet
Just an observation but paperwork says e clip goes forth from top, but i think i see you counting 4 from bottom making the needle sit lower. Good video tho as looking to do my 27yr old blade
Thanks,another informative video showing all the steps you make them enjoyable to watch and have a laugh too.. Looking forward to seeing any improvement/gains if so I'll do mine too..Have a good Christmas Quicky.
Thank you for watching matey and have a very Merry Christmas dude 😁👍
Hey buddy, love your videos I’m in the middle of sorting my bandit out ,have you got a link for the pod filters? I can’t wait for the m unit blue to be installed I’ve got to do that too 😅
Thanks for watching matey. This is where I got the pod filters from - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134188373089?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9VuQqdmMQde&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_Hkr80rQ2a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Great video 👌 I've been researching cv carbs a bit recently as have pod filter on mine and it runs horribly, I'm going to go with velocity stack as it seems its all to do with the flow of the air and cv carbs do not like turbulent air at all, so a velocity stack smooths that out, obvs awful for the engine wear as is unfiltered air, I suppose the ideal would be a velocity stack with a pod filter on the end, is interesting stuff though.
It's going to be interesting to see how it runs with this set up. Stacks do look good though 😁👍
Thanks for this vid, very useful reminder - I installed a stage 3 (from just bandits) about 3 years ago onto a 600 with aftermarket slip-on, ran well, sounds great. Then moved house and the bike was obviously dropped although the removal company denied all knowledge. However although there is a spark and the engine spins over no probs, the plugs are dry. Tried fuel straight into the carbs, still no start but the plugs were damp. Spark is good, all resistances within spec, any ideas please as my brain has stopped working. Thanks, regards
hey Quicky you sure youve put those clips 4 from top and not 4 from the shiny part of needle
Diagram shows 4th slot up the needle, IE from the longer part of the needle
Just wondered if anyone can help please. 1997 Mk1 600 bandit. Stage 3 fitted. Cone filters fitted. Ran beautifully. Dropped onto r/h side by removal company. Handlebars bent, some other minor damage. Now it won't start. The plugs are dry. Carbs stripped and all jets removed and cleaned (twice), the float height is correct. New plugs fitted, coils resistance withing spec. Plugs sparking but weakish spark. Plug leads and connections all good. Signal generator housing full of oil. Even tried "easystart" Still nothing. Suggestions welcome please.
Most probably be enough of that broken bolt to grab hold off when you remove the float bowl.
That's what I'm hoping as it's not tight any more lol 😅🤣
Yes your be fine I bet there will be 4mm off thread to grab hold off, only just started watching and will be buying a ticket today, great work 👍
Thank you very much matey, that's really good of you. There's LOADS of ASBO videos to this point, so should keep you busy for a while 🤣😂
Progress is being made..... on the needles should it not be 4 clips down from the top? Just a thought before you put it all back on
Diagram showed 4th up the needle.... I'm gonna have to check now 🤣😅😂
@@QuickBikes I noticed that too and had to rewind and check, the manual says 4th from the top, not 4th from the tip, so they are in the wrong notch 🤭
Thank you matey 😁👍
@Quick Bikes double check the whole process Quicky.....the instructions say put the 2x dynojet washers above the e clip AND use all stock washers.....
Yeah, I'm double checking it tomorrow as I may have done the bottom up slot rather than top down.... Thank you matey 😁👍
bit of a sod that busted screw ....hope it comes out ok so you can run her on the dyno
Tis what it is matey, but it's an easy fix 😁👍
Would an injected bike use a Dynojet or do they use fixed rates?
Great stuff ❤
Thank you matey 😁👍
Yo yo just fitted 100 main jets in the 98 s and just over 100 in the other 2 carbs and got pod filter s 2 turns out but seem to back fire notice a little fuel out exhaust could I adjust the fuel mixture a little if so in or out
Everybody has to do that (broken screw) at least once. .lol...If you use your small butane torch and heat up the carb body around the screw ( only necessary on 1st time removal) then smack the crap out of the driver bit, with a med size ball pean hammer, then push down very hard while turning the bit and handle..they won't break ( also use PB Blaster spray) ..At this point, remove bowl, heat, spray, heat, smack remaining stud, and use vice grip (small size) and carefully remove..If it feels/starts to twist and break, repeat heat and spray sequence...If it still shears off, grind flush with slight dip in middle, drill out with bit just smaller then the threads, use dental pick to remove/curl out the threads remaining...AVOID screw extractors as if one of those breaks off, your screwed..left alone, the bowl will surely leak..so "gird your loins" and go for it...I know you can do it!..It helps if you support the corner with broken bolt, when you smack with hammer! It's a pain in the butt, but you can successfully do this!!..Picking out the threads can take hours to do..Also, the "pulse" you were talking about, also happens on the exhaust side, and the trick is to time it so the exhaust valve has a suction at the instant it starts to open (scavenge)..I wrote you a long time ago about running the bike rich and then cutting the length off right where the "exhaust smoke swirl) stops..(poor boys flow bench) ..I knew you could figure out the Pod filters!!. 🗽🇺🇸👍👍👍
Very informative cocker hate cv cards, they don't often run right when buggering about 🤪
Thank you matey. It'll be interesting to see how it goes with this kit and pod filters 😁
Oops ment carbs, not playing cards 😜
just an observation are the float bowls on the wrong sides ? is it not easier if the blead bolt is facing outwards :)
Error... Could be... I'm gonna have to watch it again and check now 😂😅😂
What product number were the pipercross pods? Thanks
Not sure on product number, but this is the eBay listing - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/134188373089?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=9VuQqdmMQde&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=y_Hkr80rQ2a&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Thank you
Bro the clip should be 4th slot from the top looked like you counted 4th slot from the bottom
Somebody else said about that... I need to double check it tomorrow 😁👍
👍
😁
Stage 3 kit … there's 4 stages in it 😁
The forth stage is getting the broken screws out 😂🤣😅
@@QuickBikes haha ouch
Take the float bowl off and this will be a 15 second fix.
Thats what im going to be doing matey. There should be enough sticking out to get hold of 😁👍
That´s not a Bandit Carb it´s something else , Original one´s Looking Diferent!
You could be right as this has a throttle position sensor, but the make and size are all the same 😁
@@QuickBikes my 98 1200 Bandit have the sensor to, but the top caps of the carbs are plane and inside is like schown in the menual of the kit just one hole to be drilled. Maybe it's because i'm from Germany , but never seen carbs like your's on a Bandit gv75a also in other Videos.
Anyways i always enjoy your work , it give some idears but most of it is not Street legal in Germany.
Ride save 🤘
Thanks for chipping in matey and for watching the videos. It's much appreciated 👍