Painting straight over bare plaster, new plaster, or other porous surfaces.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video, i explain what a mist/sealer coat is and when or where to apply one.
and as always, a few other hits and tips along the way. - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
I appreciate your abilities!! I was worried about which steps to take on my old plaster walls, but now I'm much more confident!!! Thanks for the video and your expertise!! Cheers!!
Thank you Julie 😁 and feel free to ask any questions 👍
Brilliant video mate.....Learning so much from you .Many thanks !!!!
Brilliant video. 15 "Hamilton are the business. I like the scuttle never seen them in my local shops. Purdy have good ones with really steep sides are brilliant. Keep up the great work
Yes they really are 👍...I use a hybrid by Wooster called the Wooster sherlock 14" hybrid tray.....don't take any notice of the 14" though, as 15's fit easily
brilliant video joe never painted over new plaster before as i have a job weekend i am glad i watched your video. cheers
Glad to hear this has helped 👍
An incredibly detailed and informative video. I came with many questions. You leave no stone unturned. Answered all my questions and more. I was amazed at the wealth of info i learned. Great video!
Some really handy tips, thanks for this
No problem at all, glad I could help 👍
Top video joe and talking of PVA I can’t stand using it! So many people singing its praises and thinking its the be all and end all solution. I always use a thinned coat of contract Matt on new plaster and have never had a problem.
I agree Kathy, and thankyou for your comment 👍
Excellent video!!
Thanks heaps for your video, going help me heaps, to paint a bare wall just been plaster Ed, I want to do a good job
Thanks for your Advice I'm Painting
Newly Plaster Ceilings and Walls in my
House Some People have said use PVA
But have been talking to other Painters and they have said Misty Coat 3 Parts paint 1 Part Water Thank you
thank you for in-depth explanation
Use same set up Joe. Tray, sleeve, pole, kettle, paint. All top gear. Good man. Stevie Alba Decor
You obviously have good taste Steve 👍
Good job 👍 sir . I salute you from Egypt 🇪🇬
Thank you for your kind words 👍 I hope you enjoy my video's
JoeProDecor yes sir I’m really enjoying watching your videos and very useful too cause I wanna paint my apartment from scratch and my wall from sand and cement we still build like this way in Egypt thanks 🙏 so much sir
I started painting and decorating about 35 years ago. 1st job was new building so I started thinning down the paint all the other men on the job looking at me if I had 2 heads 1 man says what you mixing the paint with water for so i told him after that day every new build they were all mixing the paint with water. And all so damp your rollers and brush before painting.
Hey. Good point about using watered down emulsion since it’s going to be painted anyway. But isn’t the clear PVA required if lining the wall or ceiling? Or can a watered down solvite paste be used as the sealer?
Thanks Joe, it is the most detailed clip I found in TH-cam explaining the mist coat on new plaster.
May I ask some questions?
I am going to paint 2 plasterboard walls and a new plastered ceiling.
Should I apply a thinned Leyland contract matt (2 parts water, 8 parts paint) then another layer of un-thinned contract matt, after they dry then apply 2 coats of Johnstone’s acrylic durable matt, is that correct?
And usually how long should I wait for the first mist coat to dry before apply the second layer?
Thanks
Really useful vid cheers for having the time to put this up. I've got few question to ask so I'm going to start painting my newly skimmed walls however I just wanted to know when it comes to prepping how do I sand down my walls? What grit paper do I use? And how vigorous should I sand the walls down as I have seen at a friends home a painter really being tough when sanding down fresh plaster. Lastly as I'll be sanding down doors, skirting, panels etc is there a order which I should follow on what to paint first and last. Any help will be much appreciated.
Hi there, if the new plaster has been done like a mirror finish, i would run over it all with 180 grit abranet pads on my mirka sander just to take the shine off before applying the mist coat.
If it is just a standard finish, I usually apply the mist coat first before any prep is done, and it usually just needs de-nibbing with either a wide scraper/spatula, or simply run over it with the 180 abranet.
If the plaster is not the best finish, the imperfections will stand out once mist coated also and in this situation the imperfections can then be filled and sanded smooth and then resealed
@@JoeProDecor brilliant, thank you 👍
How would you prep a wall coated with a silk finish ready for a Matt finish?,as I’ve found the Matt paint just slides on top of silk.
Great question 👍...i apply a coat of soft sheen first as it acts as a bridge coat between the two, reducing the amount of vinyl steadily.The surface only needs standard prep that way, and it never fails.
All the best, joe
Hi Joe, just came across your channel, I served my time in the late 80s early 90s then left it for more secure work, started getting back into painting a few years ago doing the odd job for friends and family, the game has changed so much, there wasn't is much water based paints back then, I always used hamilton brushes back then, what us your recommended brushes for oil based and water based gloss,theres so many to choose from, any feedback would be much appreciated, thanks for the tips on mist coating, I watched this to remind me as I havnt put a mist coat on on about 20 years, 👍
Hi russ, sorry for such a late reply but ive only just noticed your comment....inuse hamilton perfection for oil based and so nany diffrrrnt ones for water based, simply becsuse they are sll different...but i often use the fat hog aqua brushes as my main water basrd is johnstones aqua guard currently...i also use monarch oval angkes and oldfield angled brushes.
Bestcregdrds, joe
@@JoeProDecor thanks very much for replying Joe, will check them out on line to try and find a good price, hope your having a good Xmas big man, love watching all the decorators on you tube, cheers mate 👍
What a fab....you.....las job you are a star
I want the final paint to be brilliant white. Should I use matt paint diluted with water?
Thanks
You can get brilliant white in all finishes, but you need to thin your paint if applying to a porous substrate.
Many thanks 👍
Nice explanation
Hi, I have new plaster. I wonder if I better to use undercoat or paint with water as you described?
Thinned contract Matt, or vinyl Matt, or the product you are finishing with. We use contract as a most coat as it's much cheaper than using a finishing paint .
Many thanks
Can u paint normal paint ie brilliant white by adding water to it then directly on the ceiling ?
Hi there, you can thin most emulsions to go straight on a porous surface prior to applying a further two coats minimum ontop, as most emulsions do explain this on the data sheet or even on the back of the tin. In my experience though, contract Matt is the best all round option as it does not have any vinyl added, which in fact is the ingredient that gives a product its durability as a finishing coat. Hope this helos
What would you use on a kitchen ceiling that is very long (25ft) with lots of spotlights in,I have used dulux kitchen paint (matt) but it has a sheen on it which shows every imperfection is there anything that would do for a kitchen that is flat matt. The ceiling is low as well "
If it has to be Matt due to the surface, I'd go with johnstones cleanable Matt or zinsser permawhite
If the kitchen is well ventilated, and has substantial extraction ect for cooking purposes,you would probably get away with johnstones perfect Matt or tikkurila anti reflex 2. They are class 1 scrubbable and high hiding also
Hey Jo, just needed some advise kn couple of things. maybe this would help orhers too.
I have taken off the old wallpaper from the hallway about 6 months ago and am currently in the process of removing the wallpaper paste with sugar soap and streamer by scraping it off.
The paste isn't too bad it's just in some places there abjt more but jts comming off.
What I wanted to know is would i be ok with trade matt emulsion paint mist coat or should I use zinseer 123 I have some left over from a previous work I did in the bathroom.
I also wanted to ask should i scrape the paint off the wall around the doors and windows and celling trims cuts about a inch in or should I sand them down and mist coat over them.
Final should i caulk first before mist coat and than mist coat the whole hallway after thats done should fill the holes and cracks?
Cheers look forward to tour advise.
Hi, all loose material should be removed from the surface before deciding on the next step, but its really difficult for me to advise on the next step without actually seeing it. Generally, its either remove all paint to achieve a level surface(can be very time consuming, so ok if its a diy project, but rarely a cost effectivemethod if paying a professionalto do the work), or feather off edges and line paper over. The other option is to have it re skimmed.
It events on how much of the area is effected by loose, patchy paint, as its often not possible to fill large areas of missing paint as the paint film is too thin and unstable to fill against....when sanding smooth, it can often just take away the filled area.
Regarding sealing the any pastextesidue in, I recommend using zinsser gardz, not bullseye 123, as gardz is specifically for this purpose.
No need to caulk before applying finishing coats, although it won't do any harm in doing so.
Cheers, Joe
A mist/sealer coat iss only needed on a porous surface, and a wall that has been painted then wallpapered has already been sealed, so what you are doing by applying zinsser gardz, is locking in the paste residue, creating a barrier so the paste does not react with the emulsion you apply.
Only time you need to reseal a surface is if you sand it back far enough to bare plaster, removing paste residue and any remaining paint
@@JoeProDecor hey jo, thanks for replying and for the excellent information.
the paint im referring too is only around the the doors and ceiling where they have cut in the celling and overprinted when doing the door frames, its not flaking or peeling.
The walls have never been painted, just wallpapered.
Was wondering if I could paint over them or just scrape and sand down sorry about the confusion.
In regards to the wallpaper paste, when I steam the wall the paste is is tacky in some small areas.
@@ESSA20 yes the visible paste needs to be removed, anything that effects the surface area
Nice vid, I have just applied a mist coat to newly built plaster walls and ceiling. I used crown contract matt emulsion but now it has dried it has left a chauky residue when I rub my hands over it, is this normal?. I watered it down about 30w/70p. Would I be ok painting the vinyl onto this or do I need to wash the residue off? Should I re-apply the mist coat with another paint make? Appreciate your advice.
I'm not familiar with crown contract matt, but as long as the plaster has absorbed the mist coat it will be fine. Contract matt does have a chalky feel as it has no vinyl in it to smooth it out. If you washed it, it would take the paint off so a bad idea, so just apply your finishing coats as planned.
All the best, Joe
@@JoeProDecor Thanks for fast response. If I rub my hand sover it they are covered in a white residue not just a feel of chauk. I will give the first of the two top coats a go and see how i get on. Any vinyl emulsion you would recommend for next coat before colour?
Hi Joe, thanks for the video. Would watered down white Macpherson Eclipse be ok as an undercoat on old plaster? I intend to use grey Johnstone's Acrylic Egshell after undercoating. Thanks.
Old bare plaster? Or previously papared plaster? Or is it painted or sealed?
@@JoeProDecor hi Joe, it's old bare plaster. I stripped the wallpaper, filled in dents, sanded then cleaned with sugar soap.
@@fredkite no need for a mist coat, but a sealer is recommended to seal in any left over paste residue...I use zinsser gardz.
Cheers, Joe
@@fredkite if you feel that you have sufficiently sanded and cleaned, you can get away without the sealer....but it's a risk. You can go straight on with the eggshell, but... .I would recommend a coat of eclipse to highlight any imperfections that may still be there
Cheers, Joe
@@JoeProDecor thanks Joe. I'll go with the Zinnser Gardz, better safe than sorry 👍
Really helpful video. What would you use for a bathroom ceiling.
Hi, depending on how sufficient the ventilation or extraction is, I would use either soft sheen, acrylic durable eggshell, or zinsser permawhite... The latter being the most effective
A mist/sealer coat would still be required first on bare plaster
@@JoeProDecor thanks for the reply. Just found your channel, really good.. Perma white it is...
Hi Joe, should i water down a mist coat if i have filled cracks in ceiling or walls, filler patches such as toupret quick dry filler or polyfiller powder, will it flash if i dont mist coat filler. Cheers keep the videos coming
Hi yes, it's, always advisable to seal/Prime filled areas
Joe what do you use to cover the PVA as whenever it's been used in my home it's difficult to paint over, I've painted some parts of the walls six times and it still shows through
Hi louise, pva shouldn't be used on plaster if you are painting over it tbh, we use a mist coat of contract Matt like on the video
You may have to apply a sealer, or blocking primer on before repainting...a product called zinsser Gardz will seal the wall and guard the paint from reacting with the pva on the wall...other options are zinsser bullseye 123, covastain or bin
@@JoeProDecor what's you thought on painting and decorating on youtube as he always uses watered down pva on bare plaster.
@@hardworker8030 I never use PVA as a sealer...simply because it makes much more sense to get on some pigment as well as,sealing it using either the paint I'm using , or a contract Matt...and if pva doesn't go on completely uniform...it can cause the paint ontop to look oatchy(flash)
@@hardworker8030 no harm in using it if the plaster is being wallpapered though...but again, it's easier to just thin down some of the paste that's being used, rather than using a different product....doesn't make much sense does it
Recognise 💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻
Hi there, im hoping you could help. We had some people do our bathroom. Its looks like they painted ontop of the plaster as some areas are now peeling. I want to redo the walls but not all areas are easy to scrap off. Ive heard not to use paint stripper on plaster. Also is s mist coat still ok to use even though my plastered walls are not fresh? I have white bathroom paint - do you reckon ill be able to thin that and use that as my mist. How many coats of the mist coat should i do?
Thanks in advance 😀
Hi there, if the paint is peeling, it is likely to be caused by applying without thinning, or moisture affecting it because it's not the correct product/paint as a finish. The surface unfortunately could do with sanding back to plaster so it can be done from the start, but it is difficult to advise without actually seeing it. Bathroom paint is no good to use as a mist coat due tuneit being a soft sheen and having too much vinyl in it
Did they apply bathroom paint directly on the new plaster without thinning? Did they apply the paint before the new plaster dried out fully? Is the bathroom ventilated in any way? Was the bathroom used straight after the paint was applied?....all potential causes of the product failing
@@JoeProDecor some areas of the plaster have thinning paint applied to it like around the toilet and around the edges of the room, as i was peeling the paint i can see the thick white coat under and the rest of the walls have just paint on plaster. Very badly done.
Its kept ventilated as best as possible but unfortunately they did not connect the extractor fan to the light and with 4 people using it daily 😥
@@rubinabee1 yeah it unfortunately sounds like an amateur job....but the best way to fix these issues is to take off any material that is either loose , cracked, failed , or likely to fail and start again but with the proper system. I know this sounds daunting, but the finish is only as good as the surface its painted ontop of.
An orbital sander will get through the paint quickly
Hi Joe, I spray mist coated 2 coats on my upstairs on fresh plaster (walls and ceiling), which took 2.5 x 10l tubs of armstead paint that I diluted 2l water to 10l paint. It looked quite opaque which worried me for a mist coat, only to find a few days later when. I run a scraper over the wall, the paints coming off 🤦🏼♂️ so I think my mix was too strong with emulsion.
So my question is, what’s the best way to remove or clean up the paint on the walls to key in a better coat? I have an electric drywall sander but fear this might be too harsh, but i can’t think of any other efficient way of removing the paint or thinning it down for a better coat.
Thanks in advance
Dry wall sander is perfect.
Were the walls polished up a little by the plasterer? If so i always sand them first to rough them up a little before the mist coat...and also, how much did you thin?
When applying the mist coat, i usually wait a minute or so, until i can seecthe first coat absorbing, then back roll , rather than applying two coats.
Regarding spraying a mist coat....i found that because it atomizes and goes on a little dryer....it doesnt absorb as easily as when rolling so the dilution has to be a little more than standard application.
Cheers, Joe
Also, because we mostly use acrylic durables these days(not used a vinyl matt for a couple of years) i have found misting with an acrylic first gives a much better result....no chaljy finish, can be wiped without taking paint off, and gives the perfect base for an acrylic top coat
@@JoeProDecorthat actually makes perfect sense, I hadn’t considered the atomising paint going on more dry. My mix was 80/20 paint to water, but I’m starting to think 50/50 would be better (and cheaper!)
The plasterer did polish in some spots, mostly on the ceiling though. I had thought about sanding before paint but figured getting paint on the wall would help me see the lumps and bumps easier for prepping for final coat.
Do you suggest sanding back to bare plaster? Or run some 320 grit over it to take the worst off and reapply a 50/50 coat?
You only need to take off any material that is loose or failing in adhesion at this point...i would run over with the sander and 120 grit, and that will pull of any loose material.
I would recommend about 40% thinned for spraying a mist coat
@@JoeProDecor that’s really useful - thanks Joe! I’ll give it a go tomorrow and let you know how I get on :)
Here’s one for you.... I do a lot of decorating as part of my job (house renovation)... always used a mist coat of thinned contract Matt. Used valspar v700 over it once and it blistered off like crazy..... then the customer service people at valspar said I should have misted with a thinned coat of the v700 as the durable paints don’t stick to the chalky ness of contract matts. I’ve also read this on a decorator page I follow on Facebook. Some folk even use a thin coat of accy undercoat as a mist coat? Am I going mad or does this actually make sense? Mist coating with your top coat would cost a fortune in extra paint and it just don’t sit right with me but then again I’ve been caught out once so maybe it’s got some truth in it? Thanks. Marc
Hi Marc, yes that is correct.....if you are using vinyl matt, soft sheen or vinyl silk, then contract matt is fine...and needed with the soft sheen and vinyl due to the fact soft sheen and vinyl silk has too much binder(vinyl polymers) in it to allow it to fully absorb into a porous surface....but when using a durable matt, the best mist coat is a durable matt...in fact an acrylic durable matt imo makes the best mist coat for any emulsion on top. It dries smooth, and when the surfaces need a bit of filling or face filling as they often do....it isn't chalky, when sanded and wiped clean it doesnt come off as easily as contract matt as its much more durable and paint adheres much better to it because its not chalky.
I myself always use a thinned durable now when mist coating, but generally use a cheaper white durable matt instead of using the same tint im going over it with.
Cheers, Joe
HIe, can I use acrylic paint to prepare a mist coat?
Yes, there are specific acrylic primers sold by some paint manufacturers that you can use, or just thin down a cheaper acrylic durable matt emulsion like I usually do.
I'm presuming you are applying an acrylic on top?
Ceiling in my kitchen is peeling from the plaster.. I've just about scraped it all off, but there are sections where the paint is adhered sufficiently. Do I mist the ceiling first with the contract matt then add joint compound to feather out the hard edges?
It's really difficult to advise on individual circumstances without actually seeing the issue in person unfortunately. What i can say is that ceilings will show up everything, so the preperation is vital. I dont know how thick the paint film is or whether or not it will fill sufficiently, but on a ceiling, i would be tempted to sand all of the paint off and start with a new bare plaster surface, especially if most of the paint has already been removed.
All bare plaster should be primed/sealed, but if you plan on filling those areas, i recommend a coat of zinsser gards before and after filling in the filled areas only, or apply a mist coat after the filling.
All the best, Joe
Also, in a kitchen area that is having to deal with steam, moisture, and grease....i would recommend using an acrylic plaster sealer instead of contract matt. The acrylic durable matt emulsions do not dry chalky and do not wipe or sand off as easily when filling and prep work is required.
@@JoeProDecor Thank you for responding. There is a little white chalky powder where the paint has peeled. I'll sand the paint that remains. Is Gripper an example of an acrylic plastic sealer? If not can give a couple recommendations? Thank you so much.
@@traycee2404 just a white durable matt thinned down will do 👍
@@JoeProDecor thank you
Joe what was the ratio mix for the mist coat ?
Approximately 3 parts water per 7 parts material (30%)
I have since gone away from using contract matt as a mist coat now unless I'm leaving a contract matt finish which is very rare. Instead I use an acrylic primer sealer , or use the material.im using as a finish, thinned as per manufacturers instructions....usually an acrylic durable matt emulsion
@@JoeProDecor Thank you .
How do you mix the paint and water if you don't have a professoonal mixer 🤔
Hi Mona,
You need nothing more than a stirrer A paddle on a drill is faster but not needed
Just start off slowly, then as the water absorbs you can speed up the motion and it only takes a few minutes to stir in, hope this helps 👍
@@JoeProDecor thanks Joe! Tried this today😊😊
On my plastered walls in a small bathroom ,i think i used to much pva before now im left with small cracking everywhere was told to sand down and use bin priemer.what is your thoughts please on this product. Thanks
Hi, sorry have you used ova and bin primer? Or just pva?
Pva should never be used as a primer/sealer on bare plaster if it is being painted, just a, thinned down emulsion will do(preferably same emulsion you are using unless it's soft sheen /vinyl silk)
If you have painted over pva and it has cracked and crazed? I would now(not that I would ever be in this situation)... Sand, and apply a coat of zinsser gardz... In theory you could use bin, but it's overkill because you do not require a, stain block primer, just a barrier to stop your paint reacting with what is underneath.
Zinsser coverstain is also another product that could be used, but again it is overkill.
All the best, Joe
@@JoeProDecor thanks joe just used pva then top coat twice matt emulsion ,ill be given it a go cheers.
@@whatscookin8269 no. Problem... There is never any need to use pva in painting & decorating apart from maybe adding extra, strength to a packet/flake wallpaper adhesive.... But even that is avoidable by just using better quality ready made wallpaper adhesive instead of packet paste.
@@JoeProDecor excellent ill remember that .
@@JoeProDecor hello again joe i need to pick your brains again regarding my cockup with my bathroom im starting tomorrow with the sanding and the guardz primer the room is a small bathroom all tiled apart from 2 walls with the grazing ,shower above bath and with extractor but still gets steamy in the room ,after ive done the prep you have advised what top coat would you recommend.cheers.
Great video Joe. What are thoughts on plaster paint? The ready to use stuff they sell in wickes and Screwfix? Thanks
Hi there, do you mean the no nonsense stuff? If so, I have never used it but it's simply a contract Matt and I'm sure it's fit for purpose.
Non of them are actually ready without thinning first though....its misleading on the front of the tin and if you read the data sheet or small print at the back, it will always recommend that you thin the paint 9 to 1 or a minimum of 10% if applying to a porous substrate
@@JoeProDecor yeah that's correct the no nonsense stuff. O appreciate your reply. I'll just stick with a diluted contract. You still reccomend the one used in this video? Thanks
@@wemoveforward6413 tbh , any contract Matt will do if it is just being used for the mist coat. But if you plan on using it for the final finish also, then I would recommend McPherson eclipse, or Tikkurila anti reflex 2, as that is what I would use if finishing with a full(unthinned coat) of the same gear
@@JoeProDecor appreciate your help mate.
@@wemoveforward6413 it all depends of you require a wipeable finish or not on a ceiling?
If you are doing any wallpapering, I recommend a more durable finish on the ceiling so you can wipe the paste off without taking the paint off...which can happen with contract Matt's as they have no durability.
If no wallpapering is being done, or it is not a room that has to deal with moisture, then contract Matt is perfectly suitable.
Please can you tell me what paint brush u use. THANKS.
Hi ibuse lots of different brushes for different emulsions and and trim paints I'm currently using purdy for ceilings, and oldfield for walls, snd monarch for trim
@@JoeProDecor what brush do you do you prefer oldfields or Picasso or Blaze
New home how many coats 2 water Down 5050 mat yes then the 2 colour final colour coat yes
Hi Michael, are you talking about the vinyl Matt or the durable Matt?
But in either case I would apply a mist coat of 30% thinned and back roll rather than applying 2 mist coats, then apply 2 full finish coats . Thank you for your comment
Is one mist coat enough or should I go for more?
It depends really ....its enough generally to seal the bare plaster, but if I'm using the same gear as a finish...I will back roll it and then apply one full coat....but again, this depends on the product used
@@JoeProDecor I guess it depends on the finish once dried. A couple of mist coats can't hurt. 😀 Thanks for the reply.
Hi I have old plaster so would I need a sealer on first
Hi there, it depends..is it bare plaster? If so then yes..anything porous needs sealing first.
Thank you, Joe
@@JoeProDecor yes I have just took old wallpaper off wat is the best sealer to use also does it need diluting
@@jakeludlam6817 are you oainting it?, if so? Then there is still pastexresidue in the plaster.. so the best thing to do is seal it with zinsser gardz after your prep work.
Cheers, Joe
@@JoeProDecor is zinsser a sealer before painting
@@jakeludlam6817 its a sealer to block the paste residue from contaminating the paint 👍
They sure don't mention or show this on restoration shows. Thank you.
You are welcome, I'm glad this has been useful 👍
Geez, that plastering is bloody awful. Good job, mate.
I'm reading all the advice about 'mist coats'. I have been painting since I was 20 (45 years ago) and still painting now- for my own home. I have never had a problem with painting bare plaster with unthinned paint. Never had a issue with peeling or anything. Two coats have been fine. Is anyone actually having bad experience or just reading what everyone just reads all the comments and thinks it's true
I personally have had lots of issues when prepping old work in a situation where the previous painter has applied unthinned emulsion straight onto new plaster. It's a well known fact that a porous surface requires sealing first for best results ....because applying unthinned paint onto a porous surface like gypsum will result in the gypsum pulling all the moisture out of the paint and effecting adhesion of the remaining material on the surface.....a bit like wallpapering behind a radiator with the heat on high.....moisture evaporates too quickly and causes adhesion issues. You wouldn't Apply masonry paint on new render without either applying a thinned coat first, or applying a stabilizer (whichvis basically a mist coat)
It is simply why all manufacturers recommend a thinned coat on the back of the tin, and on the data,sheet.
What paint are you using on the new plaster
Are these oil based? I have old plastered walls that were wall papered so i have to fis some hairline cracks then i want to paint, i read a oil based will be best to keep heat in and last longer ?any thruth to this, please hekp out, thanks.
No these,are water based emulsions for walls and ceilings.
If you have cracks in surfaces, paint will not remedy this issue, but instead the crack needs to be undercut, cleaned /remove loose debris, wet in and filled with a suitable filler, for example easifill, or Toupret tx110 filler... Before sanding smooth, spot priming to make good ready for painting over.
I have other videos on preparing previously wallpapered walls ready for painting.
I don't recommend painting walls internally with a highly toxic solvent paint
If you want to insulate the room to help keep heat in, there is an insulating lining paper that you can apply to the wall's, before then paying standard lining paper over it before painting.
@@JoeProDecor Thanks for the help i really appreciate it. So go with water based paint to paint over old plastered walls then, yes i im aware i have to fix the holes and did watch your video, thank you again.
I was told apply a oil based or shellac primer to seal out moisture and then latex paint on top.
I got new plaster can use silk paint
No, never apply silk over bare plaster, even if you thin it, as it would end up peeling off like a rubber skin. It has a high content of plastic polymers(vinyl)
You need a flat paint on there first to seal it, preferably one without any vinyl like a contract Matt. You can use vinyl Matt, and durable Matt if thinned, but it's more cost effective to use contract
@@JoeProDecor can use now armstard mat pain you got video. Then put another time because got kids that's why wanted silk
@@hawomoalin9086 only the mist/sealer coat needs to be thinned Matt....put whatever you want over that. Acrylic eggshell is much better than vinyl silk 👍
oil based primer or diluted pva is best for plaster oil based primer especially for aged plaster
I wouldn't personally use pva on a wall that is being painted because some paints can react with the pva, the same way paint can reach with wallpaper paste....but using it when papering is fine, although I just use the paste and thin it to use as a sealer.
By using a thinned version of the product you are painting over with is a fail safe way because you know they won't react, but im not saying other methods don't work, I've just had bad experiences using other methods so don't take the chance my friend.
Oil based on a,wall is great for papering over, but then might create an issue if wanting to then emulsion over in the future....it will end up requiring more prep to create the correct substrate to emulsion over.
Thank you so much for your comment , take care, Joe
@@JoeProDecor i would finish it in a oil based finish
@@jackwardley3626 oil based on a wall jack?
@@JoeProDecor yes lovely finish
@@jackwardley3626 can't beat oil for finish 👍
I always thought vinyl meant shiny and matt meant, well matt! How can vinyl matt be a thing?
Vinyl is the binder, and adding more vinyl to a paint does make it more shiny...but vinyl Matt has a small amount to make is as durable as it can be without making it shiny.
Vinyl is used in cheaper, less durable paints, and acrylic binder is used in more expensive , durable paints like acrylic eggshell, durable Matt ect.
Contract matt has no vinyl in it for example, but you can wipe off easily with a damp cloth
I'm not 100% on this, but I think some paints have a combination of both acrylic and vinyl, both plastic polymers...but acrylic is alot more expensive to source.
That makes sense thank you
Think I got vinyl mixed up with silk actually now I think about it
why don’t they make a primer that doesn’t require thinning in the UK?
in the united states we have one product called KILZ .
just sounds silly to have to water down a product when you could have a product ready to use.
Our retail products over here are ready to use. It's the trade gear that is made for versatility... Allows for thinning for different substrates, adds extra coverage compared to retail ect.
The retail equivalents go nowhere near as far and we have to end up buying more
Hiya , hasn't pva got vinyl in too, hence it's name Poly vinyl acetate. (PVA)
Yes that is correct 👍
I have a 10 ltr tub of Leyland trade contract matt that stays to use 9 parts paint to 1 part waterso what's your thought on a 50/50 ratio as I see a lot of people on forums recommending this ratio.
50-50 in my opinion is too much....there is a point where by adding too much water can effect the stability of the paint...might as well apply skimmed milk if it's going to be that thin....not for me. No more than say 35%....usually between 20-30%
Too much water will just result in the product not sealing the porous substrate sufficiently...as,the,water just evaporates
Very useful vid, thanks for sharing!
I had a tub of the Leyland Trade Contract matt and was getting mixed advice of upto 50:50 mix and on the tub's 10:90 mix water to paint, to mist coat on newly skimmed dried walls and ceilings. I diluted it out in 10:90 mix, it was still very thick. Mixed another lot to 33:66 (1:3), the consistency is closer to what this clip shows for the Armstead Trade.
Applied with roller on dried skimmed plaster left to dry for a week.
My take on "Trade" or "Contract" labelled paint, apart from having higher paint pigment(?) and formulated to be diluted on site is that for the tradesman, they have a limited time slot to do each project, e.g. newly skimmed walls that had not fully dried out, mist and get the base coat on, followed by neat top coat(s). The low water to paint ratio on the Leyland Trade Contract maybe its to compensate for the water/moisture content already in the not completely dried out plaster as it can be used on not fully dried out plaster.
"Retail" paints, which can be used straight out of the tub without diluting, and on the tub they always state surface must be dry and free from dust and debris etc...
What's your take on these 2 points?
@@SpunkyMonkeyORiley Leyland paint did a video and said people are using contract matt wrong. Contract matt should only be used on drying out plaster.
@@SpunkyMonkeyORiley I would never apply paint into a wet surface, or surface that has moisture in it unless using zinsser watertight over a problem area. I'm not aware of any retail products that are meant for damp walls? As I very rarely use retail paint.
I've heard people say there is a product that can do that, but then again I heard about decs applying Leyland super leytex straight on without thinning when I says on the data sheet that it needs thinning on porous substrates
@@SpunkyMonkeyORiley retail paints generally dont need thinning as much because they are usually thinner to begin with
Great to hear some some correct advice about thinning paint..so many people and even some decorators suggest 50/50 half and half..absolute madness..thats 100% water by ratio.
Good practical information, especially about PVA..really bad practice to use that and pointless, even pva manufacturers dont recommend it..and if people dont thin it enough following coats will peel like plastic at some point.
50/50 is very runny. I found it a little tricky at first but more coats is better than one that peels off with ease. Emulsion dries quickly so why people worry I have no idea.
Horrible hard edges all round that plaster. Not feathered at all. Yuck
Silk emulsion is an abomination, do not use it unless your walls are super flat with no imperfections whatsoever.
Totally agree, I have not used silk in year's. I always steer my clients away from vinyl silk due to it highlighting imperfections, poor opacity due to decreased pigment, and the increased risk of causing issues to other products when applied over the silk.
Thank you for your input 👍
ANY body who doesnt know that u have to thin your paint on bare plaster is a fool as u say it tells u on the back the tin or tub
Alot of people doing their own decorating at home don't know this fact unfortunately.
@@JoeProDecor why can they not read lol
@@clintmannion5598 I know, it seems many don't even look at the instructions...then again...alot of decorators choose to ignore the instructions on wallpaper, not a good example
@@JoeProDecor Well any decorator who doesnt look on the instructions on wallpaper is a moron ie what paste 2 use how long to soak and making sure all the batch numbers are the same
Thanks Joe, it is the most detailed clip I found in TH-cam explaining the mist coat on new plaster.
May I ask some questions?
I am going to paint 2 plasterboard walls and a new plastered ceiling.
Should I apply a thinned Leyland contract matt (2 parts water, 8 parts paint) then another layer of un-thinned contract matt, after they dry then apply 2 coats of Johnstone’s acrylic durable matt, is that correct?
And usually how long should I wait for the first mist coat to dry before apply the second layer?
Thanks
Just one mist coat on new plaster and thin it mote like 30-40% ....but that depends on how thick the product you are using is ofc.
I dont recommend contract matt unless you are going over with vinyl matt...I use either a specific acrylic primer thinned, or use the durable matt you are using, or even use a cheaper durable matt thinned.
Contract matt is very chalky on the surface and does not give the best surface for applying durable matt over.
Also acrylic primers don't wipe off with a damp cloth