But I'm glad you cared enough to show me how to do this. Been wrestling with corroded, broken studs, worn out drill bits and broken extractors long enough. Thanks, man! 'Nother Smith boy here. Appreciate it.
Good man, been doing this method nearly 20 years now. Best with a nickel rod, they are harder to shear off the bolt, also I always use a pointed bolt instead of a nut to weld on as its easier. Only thing I would knock you on though is you havnt covered the ports or spark plug holes 😱
This is JUST the video I needed to watch. I have an LS head (like this one in this video) that has 4 broken exhaust bolts stuck in it. I was going to do the traditional drill and EZ-Out the studs BUT now I am going to use this. Thanks!!!!!
Wow. Using stick welding. Nice job. I was going to attempt a bolt extraction using my everlast mig welder but seeing you do this with stick has emboldened me.
You answered my premature question in your video :) Great job and excellent video, My tractor has all 3 5/8 front end loader mounting bolts broken off at bell housing. I have studied them awhile but after your thought on it I am on, thx!
bliz4600 blizzard I like 7018 because it has high tensile strength and the slag puddles in and protects the threads. Good luck with your tractor project!
My man I really appreciate you because my local muffler shop wants to bend me over and no lube so I bought me a stick welder and started practicing on my target metal ill be all in tomorrow thx
How about using a left drill bit center punch the stud use a bit smaller than the stud maybe by 1/2 the size of the Stud and drill thru the stud the n use a larger bit and if you are careful the bit will catch and back the stud out!!!
Well done man, you are a genius, what settings did you do in your welder?!, is it was an ac one or dc?! Also if dc what polarity was for the welding stick?! And what amperage did you manage and what kind of sticks did you use (type and diameter)?! Thanks a lot in advance
Great demonstration, what electrode did you use? DCEP, DCEN or AC? i was thinking to use a 6013 low amp shallow weld to avoid blowing out the surrounding material, any suggestions?
@@Brandonlexx1 may I ask (sorry you're likely thinking god don't this guy know anything ) when you say keep puddle small I get the meaning but the method ? Not so close once arced? Thanks matey I'll start a tad lower as I used 80 before and it kind of melted one of the sruds lol
@@kevinhancock4064 as soon as you strike an arc your base metal starts to melt and your rod transfers into the molten metal. This area of molten metal is refered to as your "puddle". The longer you hold your rod in one spot, the larger this puddle will grow. In this instance, you do not want your puddle to grow until it meets the side walls of the hole. It is very precise.
Can you please recommend a welder and stick? I believe you said 7018. Would you recommend trying an extractor first or after trying this method? Also would using an impact wrench to remove the welded screw out be a bad idea?
I have done this same thing with a mig welder and a tig welder. Whatever you have should work. Use the smallest diameter rod/wire available and the lowest heat setting that will melt the metal. I never mess with an extractor if I have this option. The only thing that I personally would try first is a left handed drill bit. That is an easy way to tell if the broken piece will just come out.
Ground somewhere that it won't cause problems if it arcs and pits the metal. (an alternator bracket or something). Make sure you disconnect your battery to prevent the current from destroying your electronics.
Great Video! Would you recommend using 6011 for this. Will this protect the threads? The reason I ask is because you don’t need to store 6011 in any special way. Thanks from the UK!
Lol, that doesn't really make much sense since I'm welding on a head, now does it? Trying to talk and work at the same time doesn't work very well for me! Weldspatter or accidentally welding the wrong surface could damage your work piece. Heat distortion could be a problem. Just putting it out there.
Anything higher than 7018 like 8010 required a respirator because of the chrome content.We used 8018,9018,10018 in the fan blades and rotor cracks from faulty welds.After 20 years of no respirator.
@@Brandonlexx1 ok only just saw this my bad I have some 7018 rids 7013 and I'm sure 8018 when I used 80 amp before it practically melted part of the bolt in the head so appears too much/too high ! Maybe 60 ish ?
bliz4600 blizzard I like 7018 because it has high tensile strength and the slag puddles in and protects the threads. Good luck with your tractor project!
Would probably be a good idea to plug up the holes in the engine so welding BBs don't find their way into the block.
But I'm glad you cared enough to show me how to do this. Been wrestling with corroded, broken studs, worn out drill bits and broken extractors long enough. Thanks, man! 'Nother Smith boy here. Appreciate it.
Glad it helped!
Good man, been doing this method nearly 20 years now. Best with a nickel rod, they are harder to shear off the bolt, also I always use a pointed bolt instead of a nut to weld on as its easier. Only thing I would knock you on though is you havnt covered the ports or spark plug holes 😱
This is JUST the video I needed to watch. I have an LS head (like this one in this video) that has 4 broken exhaust bolts stuck in it. I was going to do the traditional drill and EZ-Out the studs BUT now I am going to use this. Thanks!!!!!
Good luck brother!
Wow. Using stick welding. Nice job. I was going to attempt a bolt extraction using my everlast mig welder but seeing you do this with stick has emboldened me.
Thanks. I like the stick as the slag helps protect the threads.
You definitely would want to plug weld this using solid wire MIG. Not stick lol
This really works! Did it on a tractor frame for 3 shewed bolts. Stick welded. Worked!!!
Amazing. I would have thought you would use a powertig welder for more control.
You answered my premature question in your video :) Great job and excellent video, My tractor has all 3 5/8 front end loader mounting bolts broken off at bell housing. I have studied them awhile but after your thought on it I am on, thx!
bliz4600 blizzard I like 7018 because it has high tensile strength and the slag puddles in and protects the threads. Good luck with your tractor project!
@@Brandonlexx1 HEHEHEHE ... So much BS but you REALLY care about the viewers projects AND get their jobs well done !!!! . It is always that way !
I used 7018, similar problem. It works. Just get a handful of extra nuts to weld on and you’ll get it. I did it upside down.
My man I really appreciate you because my local muffler shop wants to bend me over and no lube so I bought me a stick welder and started practicing on my target metal ill be all in tomorrow thx
Good luck to you brother!
Hey boss how’d it go
Smooth as a prom Queens thighs but not as risky thx a lot my bro
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Nothing like looking at the arc of a stick welder and no helmet . The AAHHH memories .
Lol, don't do that. But if you do end up with flash burn, a couple of potato slices over the eyes will help sooth them. Just an FYI.
Where do you have your ground clamp Brandon ??? Thanks
I clamp my ground to a cylinder head bolt when I do it and it works really well and I am using a MIG welder when I do it.
I've done this many times with my MIG, but with the stick ? Damn you must be a Hell of a darts player.
Should have put the spark plugs back in the spark plug holes so slag does not go inside of a motor
Would flux core work just as well? I really want to invest in a welder to get me out of tight spots like this.
How about using a left drill bit center punch the stud use a bit smaller than the stud maybe by 1/2 the size of the
Stud and drill thru the stud the n use a larger bit and if you are careful the bit will catch and back the stud out!!!
Well done man, you are a genius, what settings did you do in your welder?!, is it was an ac one or dc?! Also if dc what polarity was for the welding stick?! And what amperage did you manage and what kind of sticks did you use (type and diameter)?! Thanks a lot in advance
good job sir nice
I have to do this tomorrow on a honda engine....the weld wont stick to the block at all? Just the bolt?
you should weld washer to stud n weld nut to washer
Great demonstration, what electrode did you use? DCEP, DCEN or AC? i was thinking to use a 6013 low amp shallow weld to avoid blowing out the surrounding material, any suggestions?
Robert, I used 7018. Weld it as cold as you can. 👍 Good luck!
What kind of ampage did u use ? Cheers great vid blunt at the end lol funny though
Thanks! As low as possible... Like 80ish. Keep your puddle small, get off of it and let it cool. Repeat. Good luck!
@@Brandonlexx1 may I ask (sorry you're likely thinking god don't this guy know anything ) when you say keep puddle small I get the meaning but the method ? Not so close once arced? Thanks matey I'll start a tad lower as I used 80 before and it kind of melted one of the sruds lol
@@kevinhancock4064 as soon as you strike an arc your base metal starts to melt and your rod transfers into the molten metal. This area of molten metal is refered to as your "puddle". The longer you hold your rod in one spot, the larger this puddle will grow. In this instance, you do not want your puddle to grow until it meets the side walls of the hole. It is very precise.
@@Brandonlexx1 good info mate so so small amounts tap and repeat as its a small area thanks buddy very helpful
Man Very Well nice your método excelent
Do you fill the whole hole with the weld or u have to be care full with the trades
You have to be careful to keep the weld away from the threads.
Can you please recommend a welder and stick? I believe you said 7018. Would you recommend trying an extractor first or after trying this method? Also would using an impact wrench to remove the welded screw out be a bad idea?
I have done this same thing with a mig welder and a tig welder. Whatever you have should work. Use the smallest diameter rod/wire available and the lowest heat setting that will melt the metal. I never mess with an extractor if I have this option. The only thing that I personally would try first is a left handed drill bit. That is an easy way to tell if the broken piece will just come out.
Thanks brandon great video
Excellent tutorial video. Question What should I ground to if block is still in vehicle?
Ground somewhere that it won't cause problems if it arcs and pits the metal. (an alternator bracket or something). Make sure you disconnect your battery to prevent the current from destroying your electronics.
Your ground should be placed as close to your weld as possible. Reason: stray current can cause damage to the engine bearings.
Make sure there's no fuel lines near by I wouldn't do this with engine in car too risky. To hard to work too you need room.
Great Video! Would you recommend using 6011 for this. Will this protect the threads? The reason I ask is because you don’t need to store 6011 in any special way. Thanks from the UK!
What do you mean by "" ruining your block""?
Lol, that doesn't really make much sense since I'm welding on a head, now does it? Trying to talk and work at the same time doesn't work very well for me! Weldspatter or accidentally welding the wrong surface could damage your work piece. Heat distortion could be a problem. Just putting it out there.
do u have stud extractors there?
drill hole put the tapered extractor in and turn it left hand thread?
Yes he mentions how much they suck in the video
Where are you putting your ground at
Great video thanks
I just tried this with the wire and man did it suck I just went and bought a arc to try it
I do it with wire most of the time. Either way it can be tough.
Anything higher than 7018 like 8010 required a respirator because of the chrome content.We used 8018,9018,10018 in the fan blades and rotor cracks from faulty welds.After 20 years of no respirator.
I have to do thus x 5 what amp did u use mate and did u say 7013 rod ? Thanks
7018 is what I used. As low as you can manage to strike an arc. Probably about 80-90 depending on the rod.
@@Brandonlexx1 ok only just saw this my bad I have some 7018 rids 7013 and I'm sure 8018 when I used 80 amp before it practically melted part of the bolt in the head so appears too much/too high ! Maybe 60 ish ?
What if they are in there stronger then that
Then we do it over and over until the heat breaks them loose.
Can I use a mig welder?
Would you use a 6013 electrode for this?
7018 preferably
perfect
Any particular rod material better than another?
bliz4600 blizzard I like 7018 because it has high tensile strength and the slag puddles in and protects the threads. Good luck with your tractor project!
I would have gotten the rod stuck to the block 😆
Don't wear rubber gloves, only an idiot would do that. 😂
I'm just trying to figure out where the thumbs down come from..... I guess they mad cuz they cant do it