Thanks for sharing this detailed view. When you laid the new spring down next to the original spring, you can see that the size of the spring material is just a little thicker. As soon as you explained the issue, my first thought was the thickness of the spring wouldn't allow it to compress enough to cock the hammer. Perhaps the thickness of the spring is more evident on the video. At any rate, great video showing this potential issue.
It would be useful to have the brand of the spring kit so your viewers could avoid using it, or at least be aware of the potential problem. It would also be nice to know if the problem occurred because your revolver is an older version of the model 60.
I dont know if on time, probably not because you sir, have uploaded this video about 2 years ago, but my advice is that you can stretch permanently one of the springs you like less using household methods like using pliers even, and then cut the stretched spring to the size of stock one. You will get full range of movement you wanted and less pressure. I would put the stretched and cuttet spring heading the cutted side to the control piece holder "ball". Hope it helped :)
You should never manipulate the internals under mainspring tension with the sideplate off. The sideplate supports the hammer stud, trigger stud and rebound stud. Frame damage can occur in this scenario. Also be sure to remember to check the single action trigger pull of the revolver with a quality trigger pull gauge after making any spring changes. Using a lighter spring in the rebound slide can lighten the SA trigger pull to below the factory recommended rate of 3 pounds.
Anibal, once the lower right plate cover screw is taken out the cylinder just slides out. It might even come out on its own while you're manipulating the revolver when the screw is out. And its best to have the cylinder out when manipulating the action and the revolver will lay flat too. It's important to keep the screws in the right order, since cylinder will bind up if the wrong screw is used.
@@kyagsrussir you taken out the cylinder when you put it back the cylinder dn you forgot to put the srew in oder to lock the cylinder is it risky when you fire that gun?
Instead of gatekeeping something that’s been around for 73 years how about offering some constructive criticism such as telling him and the rest of us what he did wrong, if anything.
Thanks for sharing this detailed view. When you laid the new spring down next to the original spring, you can see that the size of the spring material is just a little thicker. As soon as you explained the issue, my first thought was the thickness of the spring wouldn't allow it to compress enough to cock the hammer. Perhaps the thickness of the spring is more evident on the video. At any rate, great video showing this potential issue.
It would be useful to have the brand of the spring kit so your viewers could avoid using it, or at least be aware of the potential problem. It would also be nice to know if the problem occurred because your revolver is an older version of the model 60.
Wesbaun, Custom Reduced Power Spring kit For Smith and Wesson S&W J Frame Revolvers
@@kyagsrus did the company stand behind their product?
A very good demonstration video; thank you.
I dont know if on time, probably not because you sir, have uploaded this video about 2 years ago, but my advice is that you can stretch permanently one of the springs you like less using household methods like using pliers even, and then cut the stretched spring to the size of stock one. You will get full range of movement you wanted and less pressure.
I would put the stretched and cuttet spring heading the cutted side to the control piece holder "ball".
Hope it helped :)
good tutorial....
Thanks for sharing 👍🏼
You should never manipulate the internals under mainspring tension with the sideplate off. The sideplate supports the hammer stud, trigger stud and rebound stud. Frame damage can occur in this scenario.
Also be sure to remember to check the single action trigger pull of the revolver with a quality trigger pull gauge after making any spring changes. Using a lighter spring in the rebound slide can lighten the SA trigger pull to below the factory recommended rate of 3 pounds.
What spring kit was it? Help us out so we don’t buy it.
Wesbaun, Custom Reduced Power Spring kit For Smith and Wesson S&W J Frame Revolvers
I don't understand why take of the cylinder for only change the main spring. It would be easier with the cylinder in its place.
Anibal, once the lower right plate cover screw is taken out the cylinder just slides out. It might even come out on its own while you're manipulating the revolver when the screw is out. And its best to have the cylinder out when manipulating the action and the revolver will lay flat too. It's important to keep the screws in the right order, since cylinder will bind up if the wrong screw is used.
@@kyagsrussir you taken out the cylinder when you put it back the cylinder dn you forgot to put the srew in oder to lock the cylinder is it risky when you fire that gun?
hello, could you write the diameter of the drum of your revolver and the length! thank !
อํามตะนิรันการเป็นปืนทีสะกดสายตาคนได้มากครับสุดยอดคัรบสวยมาก
P
Please stop making videos and also please stop working on guns.
Please vanish
EXCELLENT advice.
I agree 110%……..just hope you never buy a gun this guy “worked” on.
( or is that “worked over” !? )
people are smart, and can assemble their own gun just by seeing how it works. they will understand how to make it. humans are intelligent creatures
Instead of gatekeeping something that’s been around for 73 years how about offering some constructive criticism such as telling him and the rest of us what he did wrong, if anything.
Why do people people do videos that have no idea what they’re doing I just don’t get it
Not a good video