MITSUBISHI CANTER 4X4 CAMPER TRUCK
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ต.ค. 2024
- A comprehensive review my Mitsubishi Canter 4x4 camper truck. 4WD low range motorhome. Build process and filmed in Litchfield National Park, Dirk Hartog Island Simpson Desert, Big Red, Outback South Australia. Originally built to be a functional camper for fishing, with everything you need and nothing you don't, but it's proved itself to be an excellent touring vehicle as well. You may notice that I have an aversion to shiny white two pack and laminates synonymous with most caravans and campers, but each to their own I guess. Paul Kelley
Originally built to be a functional camper for fishing, with everything you need and nothing you don't, but it's proved itself to be an excellent touring vehicle as well. You may notice that I have an aversion to shiny white two pack and laminates synonymous with most caravans and campers, but each to their own I guess. Paul Kelley
Epic build mate.
Perfect for aus trips
Nice work on the construction lines of your rig, the curves you have created make it look quite remarkable
Thanks for sharing
Thanks, and no problem.
Great truck and camper body. Love the simple but effective design approach. However it must be a pain in the arse to clean every speck of sand from the table before it goes over your bed!
Actually no, just slam the folding legs shut and all the sand just falls off. Mud does take a little longer though, with a wet sponge
I knew I’d since your rig in SA before we got to Adelaide to catch up with my partners family.
So dope love the build process.
Can’t wait to do a 4x4 canter build when I sell my sprinter
The build process was very satisfying for me, particularly as it was my own design. Enjoy yours. Paul Kelley
Top job Paul, it's a great build that can go anywhere (and back). So satisfying knowing its all from your own effort, well done.
Thanks
Nice .
I have an ambulance version 4.2 engine with dual rear
Hi Paul, Its James from Mid Coast Fishing Tackle in Lonsdale . You showed me your truck once. Ive finally bought one and just curious what shock absorbers do you run on your truck please as mine are needing to be replaced. Thanks in advance. ps,, great videos by the way.
Hi James, congratulations on your new acquisition. Regarding the shock absorbers, I fitted EFS shocks as they are reasonably priced and had served me well on my Troopy. They don't come branded as EFS however, but was assured that they are the commercial equivalent and are labeled "something Commander" as best as I can see as the label has deteriorated. I am happy enough with them but the ride is still rough as it is a truck and one sits directly over the front wheels. Suspension Services Australia in Brisbane do an upgrade for around 6K which is supposed to be a big improvement, but I doubt that since only replace the leaves to give the truck more lift (and fit different Shocks). The problem is that the Canter has very short springs front and rear and from factory only 40mm. between the springs and the bump stops in the front, which while may be adequate for the black top, it is bone jarringly uncomfortable when they bottom out off road. I had my springs reset with around 75mm. clearance, but they soon sagged back to normal, so I fabricated some extended shackles and now all is good. I think these feature somewhere in my video. So in closing, I don't think the shocks make much difference and wouldn't waste my money on remote reservoir shocks, no matter what you do the ride is likely to be rough, so just put up with it. I know All Terrain Warriors can supply parabolic rear springs (mega bucks) and I've heard that they have issues, but that's only second hand information.
The bottom line is if you want it to ride like a Rolls Royce, buy a Roller instead. Hope this helps Paul.
@@wankertoo Thanks Paul. Thats the sort of brutal honesty I was chasing. Much appreciated and look forward to seeing you off the road one day. Travel safe..
@@wankertoo Just checked my "spring to bump stop gap" at the front and I have 85mm so i'm happy with that.
@@jamesbrown4066 That sounds good!
Hey James, I just saw your truck at Llordan Diesel. It looks awesome mate, I especially like the cab to rear access, and so much room in the back as well as the luggage boot section.
Very impressive. The stove levelling device is neat. I also think the MaxTrax box between the cabin and the house box is very accessible, and when it rains, they get the mud or sand washed off as a bonus.
Neat idea to use the dogleg chassis rails to hold water, I wondered where the battery was, but all was revealed.
I hadn't thought of your electric cooker, it's certainly more versatile than a pie warmer.
Are your pushbikes strapped on the bed, or against the bed?
Home made leaf spring shackles?
Did you replace the leaf springs, or take them apart to clean and repaint them? Whichever, they look good.
A very simple and effective set-up.
I too have the Quaife ATB front differential fitted, certainly makes a difference; Isuzu NP300.
Very observant noticing the homemade extended shackles and they are stronger than the originals. I fitted them because although I had the front springs re set, due to time constraints I couldn't use my preferred spring guy and consequently the springs sagged a bit. I've also made a set for my Troopy that are also greasable. My bike straps in in front of the bed, with one strap around the seat post and the other around the head stem/goose neck. So much easier than making a bike rack, which would no doubt be in the way. Yeah, the Quaife ATB's are awesome hey! Paul Kelley
Hey Paul
How did you go about designing your camper body?
I want to build one the same size on my canter can you give me some insight?
I looked at the Amesz canter camper and tour bus bodies which were made from 40 x 40 Square hollow section, but I am unsure of the wall thickness they used. They are no longer built as the builder died, so I couldn't check. Most of their campers were medium wheel base models and wider than mine, so opted for 30 x 30 x 1.6 mm. SHS to save on weight and it's very strong and robust. The curves in walls and roof allow the whole frame to minimally flex, not concentrating stress in any one place, eliminating to possibility of cracking. The body is bolted to the base or tray so no cracking can occur there either. The verticals on the frame are at nominally 600 mm. centres and the base or tray is 50 x 50 x 1.6 SHS at 300 centres and 400 centres under the bed where there is no load. The floor is 3 mm. aluminium chequer-plate. The external cladding is .42 "Colorbond steel sheeting. The only CAD used was a little Cardboard aided design. If you aren't going to incorporate the curves in your design I'd be inclined to use composite panel for speedier and simpler construction. The cladding or siding is stuck together with Soudal "T Rex" adhesive, which is way stronger than Sikaflex and doesn't turn yellow in a year or two like Sikaflex does either. The Polystyrene is fixed with a contact adhesive which doesn't dissolve the polystyrene like regular contact adhesive does. You may notice that I built most of the inside fit out before lining the walls for ease of access. I hope this helps. Paul Kelley.
@@wankertoo sorry Paul can you explane to me how you made the curve?
@@nickthomson528 If you flick me an email to: pskelley@adam.com.au I will send you some photos of the dies I made to achieve the bends. Paul Kelley
@@wankertoo hi Paul I have tried to email you but it keeps returning is this email correct?
Thanks
@@nickthomson528 I can only suggest that you copy my email address above, close TH-cam and then paste it into the address bar of new message in your email server. If that doesn't work, try posting your email address here and I will respond. pk.
Brilliant
Mate i watched this tonight and i must say for a basic design youve really made it stand out and above than some high end designs.
I did love the cooker levelling device, well in fact i loved everything about the design right down to the centre console.
Did you get the RHS rolled or did you do it yourself?
Kind Regards
I rolled them myself, I had to make two dies, one for the walls, 50 mm ( 2inch radius) and one for the wall / roof junction, 100mm (4inch radius). They fit into a standard el cheapo round pipe bender.
Awesome mate and thank you, it's a shame you didn't have more videos of how you did certain things.
May I ask what you insulated the walls with please
I glued 30mm. polystyrene sheets between the 30 mm. x 30mm. x 1.6 SHS, sticking them onto the inside of the steel external cladding sheets (Colorbond) using polystyrene compatible contact adhesive, which created a flat surface to the interior and then stuck marine carpet onto that with the same adhesive. Simple easy and thermally efficient.
Thank you very much for your assistance
Great looking rig mate 👍
Thanks
Thats a fantastic little camper? How much did it cost you if you dont mind my asking?
My original budget was $50k, but all up, including the truck, the engine rebuild and full engineering (everything) it was a touch over 90k, but worth it.
That's Australian dollars
@@wankertoo thank you!!
@@wankertooso like $30k USD? Not bad at all
No, at todays exchange rate it's a touch over 60k, and it's not a brand new truck. Paul Kelley
You need to upload more videos man