Ep. 94 - Pulling the Prop - A Change of Plans
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- It's been a while, but progress is still happening! In this episode, we get the prop pulled, and I realise I didn't have what I thought I had.
-=] Referenced Videos
* PYI Inc.
Max-Prop: How to disassemble a three blade Max-Prop.
- • Max-Prop: How to disas...
* Shane McCormack
Max prop classic remove and install
- • Max prop classic remov...
-=] Channels that have Helped Me;
* @ProjectBrupeg
* @OffGridGarageAustralia
* @AcornToArabella
* @BillCarlson
-=] Chapters
0:00 - Eclipse? STM32? Pulling the Prop
1:24 - Getting the Zincs Off
3:06 - Getting the Blades and Cap Off
9:41 - Getting the Collar Off
11:01 - The Value of Used Spares
11:53 - Why I Plan to Replace the Prop Shaft
14:56 - Freeing the Prop Shaft
17:58 - Clouds and Totality!
19:52 - Back To Pulling the Shaft
24:10 - Rudder Blocked
26:32 - Removing the Coupler
32:38 - A Brand New Plan...
36:21 - STM32 Update
40:20 - Post; O Glorious Sanding - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
![ช่วยพาฉันผ่านเวลา - วสันต์17 [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HFnntWoqc54/mqdefault.jpg)
Theres a voice, That keeps on calling me
Down the road, Thats where I'll always be
Every stop I make, I make a new friend
Can't stay for long, Just turn around
And I'm gone again
Maybe tomorrow, I'll want to settle down
Until tomorrow, I'll just keep moving on
YAAAAAAAAS!
“Plans are worthless, but planning is everything” - Eisenhower
OMG, yes. You need to make as many and as detailed plans as you can, knowing full well they'll completely fall apart. haha
Never knew about boat zincs before, so I took a quick search dive to get up to speed. It makes perfect sense that you'd want to sacrifice a cheap anode to the gods of corrosion instead of letting them chew on your prop. Science!
There's so many wonderful things to learn from sailing!
Long time no see, sweetheart! Getting that shaft out was certainly something. I love your problem solving skills. If it doesn't work, try a different way, note the results, correct if necessary. For Science!
Great before and after restoration comparison pics. It also shows how lovely these parts were in the first place. Quality mechanical engineering - a thing of beauty, a joy for ever.
Howdy, Keri! Ya, between work, a sick kitty, training and learning STM32, it's been rough to get content to make a video out of. Really hoping the worst of the backlog is clearing though!
Woot! More boat work content. Love your vids
Awe, thanks man! These boat vids usually don't do well, so this comment made me happy. ^_^
Good video! Thanks.
Once you get to sea, I wouldn’t mind seeing videos on your travels. We can see how everything you’re doing does when it’s put to work. And I’m sure projects will continue even after you go to sea.
Once I've not more time, I've played with the idea of creating a separate, dedicated travel channel, and making the technical stuff stay the main topic on this channel. We'll see how it plays out. :)
Madi you keep saying you have low standards and yet for me as a clueless non sailor I personally would call your standards obtainable.
We all know its a trait of humanity to want to become better and to downplay our own accomplishments but please don't forget that you are somebody else's mentor just as you have your own.
I hold you in high regard as a person and as a youtuber because you are down to earth and real with your videos... low standards you don't have Id say you hold yourself to pretty high standards given that you're an IT geek 😉 stay safe young miss, much respect from Glasgow formerly the home of boatbuilding in Scotland and now residing over the wall in the Frozen North 😂
This is very kind of you to say. I guess when I say things like that, I'm thinking about channels that are much better provisioned, like Sampson Boat Co, Acorn to Arabella, etc. I'm proud of what I can do with the relatively limited time and skills. So I guess it's trying to strike a balance to keep myself grounded, if that makes sense. :)
Also, I soooooo want to get to Scotland!!
We got littlest hobo in the UK too - nice reference. Every stop you'll make, you'll make a new friend,
Can't stay for long, just turn around and you're gone again
It's soooooo goooooood!
On the DACS, understood your point. You are reading the voltage from the pot on an interval with the STM32 and using the DACS to send your modified throttle voltage as a continuous signal to your motor controller. I used an automotive throttle position sensor as a pot in my build. A little more robust in packaging, same 50kohm resistance. Fair winds!
Yup, that's how it should work. I think the CPU will still be involved as I'll want to smooth out the readings and add ramping, but in any case, this should lighten the load on the CPU so I can add additional loads. In my case, I plan to have two throttles, one port and one starboard, to act as ready-redundancy and to provide a nicer experience to any left-handed guests I have at the helm in the future.
people always seem to respond to a total eclipse that way, it's like such a magical experience. didn't get to see this one but saw 2017... reacted just like that tho
I was surprised at how viscerally it effected me... I thought it would be cool to see, but I was shocked at how ... wow ... I felt!
A nice little bit of progress.
Eat the elephant a bite at a time :)
I have been enjoyed, so thank you for delivering.
You're welcome, Frej
That's what I call cost saving! Nice video.
Right?! After this, I found an FAQ on PYI's website confirming regen does in fact work with this prop! So I'll be really interested to play with pitch settings and thrust/regen efficiency this summer. Later, if I get the Bruntons Eco-star, it'll be fascinating to compare the results!
Taking out the rudder is a different feat than simply dropping it to the ground, and trying to lean it to the side to get it out of the way of the shaft. I don't know if that would work, but just an idea from the looks of things.
Enjoyed the video. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Oullys: use taperloc ones, very secure and easy to fit and remove.... Shrunk on ones will NEVER come off
Don't know if I missed an episode, but a feathering prop feathers and when sailing and does not turn. No regen available. You could lock it at a particular pitch, but then it is just a fixed prop and a waste of a feathering prop. You can get mechanical or hydraulic variable pitch props but I think that would be cost prohibitive. A standard fixed prop will create drag when sailing but as you are trying to generate power no problem. Sizing will be the critical thing as the prop may be perfect to propel but not generate, and you might get a perfect prop to generate but sucks as a propeller to drive the boat. Good luck!!!!!
So, I wasn't sure if the regen would work on this prop, for exactly that reason. I originally wanted to get the Bruntons Eco-star because it does feather, but also does regen. I went looking and last night, I found on PYI's FAQ that indeed, you CAN regen with a feathering prop. If I understand the way it works, you pop it into astern thurst, turn on regen, and release. The flow of water should hold the prop in astern, and spin the prop to get regen. They even sell a model with springs to ensure it doesn't get stuck in astern (which makes me think I _might_ need a brake on the shaft when I really do want to feather reliably). Much to learn this summer!
excellent!
^_^
To remove the propellor shaft, don’t remove the shaft bracket, the way to go is to lower the rudder, sometimes you need to dig a hole in the ground to be able to completly remove it. It’s not a waste of effort, you can check the rudder bering an condition of the rudder shaft.
Aye, I mentioned the need to dig a hole. I'm worried that if I drop it, I'll find a pile of work, so I am hoping to deal with it when I get hauled out at the end of the season. For now, talking to other LF38 owners, if I disconnect the transmission I should get enough play to pull it out via the saloon.
Great video dont forget to buy that 1" socket .
Aye!! I need to get one for my tool kit.
1:50 That's what sh... I mean hey! Nice to see you again! 😄
😂
Just checking, I'm sure you did, but to be thorough: Did the shaft clear the rudder without the stuff on it? Sometimes rudders and/or the alignment of the shaft are a bit off center, it might clear on one side and not the other. This sometimes is on purpose to counteract the prop pulling the boat to one side due to rotational direction.
And since you'll probably have to take it apart again, I'd contemplate drilling a hole in the bulkhead. Then you can pull the shaft in the water if need be (this may sound dumb but can be done safely). Also for removal, it might have helped to loosen the coupler from the gearbox if it was sticking bc of a slight misalignment from the gearbox to the shaft.
Propshafts are not too expensive and are sold in increments, just get one and chop it off to size. No need to get a machinist involved, the face does not need to look pretty.
So yeah, working on a boat is a constant learning experience for all of us. You're doing great even if it might not feel like it, just hang in there!
For reaching goals, my advise would be to focus on getting the boat running and into the water. For the DIY electronics, start with something which is small, fun, and gives rewards fast. Like a display for NMEA Data and a couple of sensors for example. It's got all the same building blocks you can reuse later (same bus system as industrial controls, buttons, rotary, pwm if you integrate some warning lights, any kind of inputs if you build your own sensors for temperature, ...). You can tinker with it while traveling (just through a wind or speed sensor/display in your suitcase) and messing something up does not come with the risk of a motor being stuck on full send or just stopping, which can be a quite costly crash, especially if the insurance challenges a claim bc of diy. Don't get me wrong, I don't want to discourage you doing it, I'm just pointing out it's not a good project for getting into Microcontrollers and it's best done during winter or, at anchor, on you boat.
I did try pulling it out, it's down the center line, and the shaft has too little play to clear it. I spoke to folks on the LF38 facebook group and apparently, if I remove the transmission, there's enough inboard play to clear the bulkhead.
The helm project, the basics to control the throttle, is that small intro project for me. It's going to be just the start of many more things to be built and added as time goes on. :)
HOWdy T-D-M, ...
YUP = me too = in the PATH of Totality = Got my WELDING HELMET out but it was NOT quite enough @ shade Level-13
Glad to see your Video
COOP
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
We got soooo lucky, just a thin layer of clouds at just the right time.
Hey from Chicago I Really enjoy these boat vids !
Ahoy from across the lake!
I am thinking swing by and restoration shop or a machine ship that has a blast cabinet. Find someone who uses a soft media like plastic or even crushed nut shells. have them clean up the proper for you.
I actually called one place and they didn't seem interested in helping. I figured I'd try hand sanding, and if I get fed up, I'll call around some more places.
So glad to see you back!! Just a thought, will it be possible to take the shaft out as originally intended ie out past the rudder, now that the prop collar is off the shaft? I'd be just as happy to watch your raw video on the helm project, thats fascinating. Good luck as always and looking forward to the next slice of madventures :) - Tom
Howdy, Tom! Talking to other Landfall 38 owners, seems like the way to do it is remove the transmission and then there's enough play to pull it forward, through the bulkhead door.
Nice work! I thought at one time you were going to use motor pods , I hope I termed that properly
You remember correctly, that was the plan for the longest time. Unfortunately, I could not fund one that would regen to my prop and would answer my questions. As time went on, I got more and more nervous about a closed system, and decided to just build my own system from bare parts so I wouldn't find myself locked out if there was a problem and I was somewhere I couldn't get support from the company. The meant that I had to switch to use inboard motors.
Splash day, man I need to break the chains and get away from work and get up there, its a goal!
Really trying to get in this year!
Yeeeeees 🎉 finaly my show is back
Sorry for the delay! Trying to keep the gaps as short as I can while I get through the busy season at work. :)
Do you have an ultrasonic cleaner? They’re not expensive and work wonders on small parts.
I don't, but I might see if I can find someone in the area.
Having even just a tiny ultra-sonic cleaner is probably worth the investment of like 30 bucks or whatever. It certainly has been for me, and it was a used one off ebay. Of course one of those won't fit the blades, but certainly the moving parts in this case, and possibly for future tinkering and repairs. It's kinda nice to just be able to throw some small thinks in there and they come out just looking spiffy!
I thought about buying one, but it would take up a fair bit of space that I can't really justify on the boat. I might try to find someone who has one in the area though.
Get a new bit of brass keystock and replace the corroded key Maddie.
I'll need to find a metal person to help with the motor mounts, so I'm sure they'll be able to whip one up for me as part of a bigger job.
HOWdy MADI,
Might I suggest a:
MEDIA BLASTING cabinet
or
a SODA Blasting cabinet ...
for your softer metal components ?
both made to remove corrosion without removing any base-metals
COOP
I've though about finding a place nearby that could do that for me. Or if I hand-sand it, then getting it cleaned in an ultrasonic bath. We'll see how it comes out.
What your current prop shaft is made of I don't know but there's a product line called Aquamet that you might here about when you go shopping for your new one. It is some kind of stainless but it is meant for the application.
Not sure, but I'm guessing marine 316 stainless.
Yooo we watch the same channel xD
Too bad the rudder doesn’t have a hole through it so when you turn rudder 90 degrees the hold allows the shaft to pull out, right
That's an interesting idea! I suspect it would cause a decent amount of turbulence though. Talking to other LF38 owners after I got home, it seems like pulling the transmission will give me enough flex to pull the prop into the door way to the main saloon, so that's what I'll try next.
How does regen work on a self-feathering prop? Won't it just, well, feather itself and not generate any torque?
I replied to the earlier comment, seems like youtube was hiccuping with comments last night. :)
@@TheDigitalMermaid Yeah, the first one didn't show up and I wasn't sure I'd posted it correctly.
STM32 or ESP32 S3 Dual Core
STM32 for the important bits, like throttle, and esp32 for fancier stuff, like setting my phone up to be the wireless key.
Haha, shaft...
lol
No good reason to use DMA unless you're CPU constrained. Lots of frustration for no benefit. Don't forget a watchdog!
I've got plans to integrate a good number of sensors and drive a lot of LEDs, so it's worth sorting out.
@@TheDigitalMermaidwhile I disagree, I'll really enjoy the content it generates either way!
@@electrowizard2000 With my friend's help, we've got it working now! ^_^
@TheDigitalMermaid Andrew's a bright guy, we've spent a lot of time together. Never doubted the ability, it's just more trouble than it's worth imho :)
You know elmood!?
Great video Maddie ,i love your spirit,you just keep soldiering on through adversity . It is inspiring ,reminds me of when i tried to change the oil in my van last week and everything that could go wrong did. Even though i had done it many times before without a hitch.
Ugh, I know those "this should have been easy!" times, they suck. Nothing to do but get 'er done though. :)
How does regen work with a self-feathering prop? Won't it just feather itself and not generate any torque?
So, I knew that the Bruntons would do regen, their prop is designed for electric and still feather. After deciding to hold onto this prop for at least a year, I wasn't sure if it would work. I looked on PYI (company that makes the Max Prop) and their FAQ says it's possible. If I understand it correctly, it's done by putting the motor in astern and then enabling regen so the blades grab the stream before they're able to feather. In fact, if I want to feather, I may well need to add a mechanical brake to the prop shaft!
@@TheDigitalMermaid OK, I think I get it... in order to go astern, the blades have to rotate ¾ of the way around, so that the aft-ward force of the water doesn't just push them back into feathered position, and that's the same force you get when doing regen.