I have started to fit the epoxy-filled coils as these are supposed to be better quality than the oil-filled ones - too soon to say if they are better or not! They are more expensive! I have never cut one open to see if it were possible to see what was failing, have had oil leaking out before now. Good that you are back up & running - if you were in a modern car and a coil pack had failed it would have been a lot more expensive and time-spent in a garage! Thanks for sharing.
As a 72 year old who was a mechanic when these cars were common, can I ask a question which may be obvious? Please forgive me if you've already thought of this, but the original coils in those days had the small terminals labelled 'SW' for switch wire and 'CB' for contact breaker wire to the distributor. This assumed that the car was positive earth, which they all were. Later ones had '+' and '-'. Has yours been converted to negative earth? If the new coil is negative earth and the car's positive earth, or vice versa, this could be why you're eating coils.
@@woowoo883classiccars That's fine as long as the coil isn't for a standard positive earth Minor. If it is you probably need to reverse the LT connections so the '+' is the supply from the ignition switch and the '--' is the one to the electronic ignition in the distributor, depending of course on the type of electronic ignition you have. In the old days we used to see quite a few where people had connected the coils back to front and they failed. Best of luck, hope it goes OK now.
![ILLSLICK - WINTER IS COMING [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dwTMeM1zIhQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Good job, hopefully he gives you a trouble free winter!
Hi👋that's what I'm hoping.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment 🤓👍
I have started to fit the epoxy-filled coils as these are supposed to be better quality than the oil-filled ones - too soon to say if they are better or not! They are more expensive!
I have never cut one open to see if it were possible to see what was failing, have had oil leaking out before now. Good that you are back up & running - if you were in a modern car and a coil pack had failed it would have been a lot more expensive and time-spent in a garage!
Thanks for sharing.
Hi 👋 I have heard that they are better but are expensive. Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment 🤓👍
Treat to new coil lead or lead set ,great video as normal looking forward to next 👍 installment
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment 🤓👍
George certainly hops along. Hopefully his problems are all sorted.
Kind regards Jonnie.👍
Hi👋seems to be running well at this time.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment 🤓👍
As a 72 year old who was a mechanic when these cars were common, can I ask a question which may be obvious? Please forgive me if you've already thought of this, but the original coils in those days had the small terminals labelled 'SW' for switch wire and 'CB' for contact breaker wire to the distributor. This assumed that the car was positive earth, which they all were. Later ones had '+' and '-'. Has yours been converted to negative earth? If the new coil is negative earth and the car's positive earth, or vice versa, this could be why you're eating coils.
Hi thanks for watching and thanks for the comment George is negative earth and has electronic ignition 🤓👍
@@woowoo883classiccars That's fine as long as the coil isn't for a standard positive earth Minor. If it is you probably need to reverse the LT connections so the '+' is the supply from the ignition switch and the '--' is the one to the electronic ignition in the distributor, depending of course on the type of electronic ignition you have. In the old days we used to see quite a few where people had connected the coils back to front and they failed. Best of luck, hope it goes OK now.
Very strange isn't it, could it be getting damp
Thanks for watching and thanks for the comment 🤓👍