Thanks for this helpful video. Bought a new actuator from Rock Auto. I replaced my actuator in about 30 minutes and it fixed my heat issue. Just in time because no heat at the end of October makes for a cold ride home from work at 3am.
Hey guys before replacing if you have a auto climate control try holding off and floor buttons at the same time. Then real quick hit auto button. Its going to have 3 little lines on the screen let it run until u see codes press the front defrost button. Just something that worked for me
After chasing no heat issues for a while we figured out the water pump impeller was rusted off. It still cooled fine because the fans were stuck on all the time because the a/c switch on the high side was bad. Which is also why it didnt heat the cabin because it wasnt getting fully up to operating temp even though the gauge said it was normal. So make sure youre fans arnt running all the time
Last night I couldn't get my 2010 Ford Taurus to start finally got it jump started and now my heater don't work won't even turn on. I am a single mom and no man around to help me figure it out. Any ideas would be appreciated.
2:10 what is the silver looking bar that’s moving and can I obtain just the bar everything’s working just don’t have the little bar would that also cause my no heat issue I only have ac
on my 2000 ford Taurus SES 3.0 flex fuel V6. I have heat but it will come and go, if I turn the heat on when it gets to operating temp it will blow hot for a couple mins but then go cool/warm and each time i turn the heat off then on it will do this, i just had a shop flush the cooling system and back flush the heater core, heater core was not clogged and they did not use a chemical just water and a power flush machine, came out clean. What could be the case. It blows on all settings.
Hey Makuloco, showing how you get to the actuator assembly would be helpful. Does one have to pull the center console and the stereo, or can you pull the stereo w/o pulling the center console? I've three of the four bolts the fourth bolt closest to the drivers door and floor board is proving to be a hard nut to crack, and looks impossible to re-install in w/o removing stereo. HELP. THX Edward
FordTechMakuloco hey guy, I have a 09 ford taurus and for a few days the heater would come on and off by itself and today it finally didn't turn on , any ideas ? You think it might be electrical
I have a heating problem. No heat I changed the heater core made sure the acuwater door works properly all seals are good and changed the thermostat filled with antifreeze. Now I have heat but not really hot just barely warm. Any thoughts. Thanks Terry
I need to replace those, what does it called?? I was about to replace the heater core but now I noticed what’s missing is the leakage!!! I need to know what are the parts are called
Do you know what the function is of that secondary door? I did a heater core and one of these cars a couple of years ago, and now she's saying that it heats good through the vents and through the defrost, but the air is cold coming out of the floor registers. I know I broke that plastic tab when I removed the heater core, and used a stamped tin nut on the plastic stud to keep the rod from coming dismounted. Wondering if that secondary door not actuating would cause no heat on the floor only?
I know this was a couple years ago but I just broke my plastic tab. Can you send me the dimensions of the stamped tin nut? Maybe picture some how ?? I was thinking of using a star washer and force it on the plastic studs. Please and thank you
@@MrSGTHaynes I'm sorry I dont remember. If I were to guess, I would say 3/16? A star washer would work much better, I just used what I had laying around. Hope you can get it back together!!
My cooling system and heater core were flushed and both run clear water. New thermostat installed too. System refilled with antifreeze mix but still no heat. Blend doors seem to be working as I can hear them. [I have a new bend door actuator to install from 1AAuto]. The parts store I go to says they think the heater core is air bound. How do you get the air out?
I had a bad blend door actuator and I replaced it. Now that it was finally working again, it caused a small piece of plastic to break off. When the metal rod is supposed to push open the secondary door, it does not. The top of the metal piece is supposed to attach to the lever that the blend door actuator rotates on a little plastic nub. The nub has broken off so the primary door opens but not the secondary. I have looked around the internet to see what that part is called but have been unable to figure it out. If you know the name of that lever that moves for the primary and is supposed to move secondary via the metal piece I would love to know what it's called. Thanks.
I'm currently dealing with this issue and so on the secondary door I turned the peg that has the spring attached and put a zip tie to hold it in place to allow the cold air to flow out of the vents.
What if I'm workin on a sable with atc and a new heat blend door is not responding to digital temp control? Is it the atc climate control module under the radio?
Looking for some advice here. I have a 2000 ranger with a 3.0 that's has almost no heat. it will get here for a while and then lose it. running out of ideas. flushed the coolant system, Heater core, thermostat is good and has a new water pump.
Ok try this procedure- Fill the degas bottle to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the COLD FILL line. Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard. Turn the climate control system off. Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds. Turn the engine off for and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold. Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once. Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds. Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds. Turn the engine off for 1 minute. Repeat steps 9 through 11 a total of 5 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system. WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury. Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold. Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard.
I have a 2006 Taurus. It blows hot/cold no problem but only out of the defrost. It will also turn off when the knob is in the up position, but again only defrost otherwise. Can you help?
+sealious1 you have lost all vacuum to the hvac head unit. Make sure the black vacuum line on the passenger side firewall is hooked up and is being supplied engine vacuum. After that go to the hvac head unit and look for that same black hose and test for vacuum being present. All of this while the engine is on of course.
My 98 Taurus runa a hair above the cold mark, new heater core, 2 Thermostats later, I still only have luke warm heat at 2k rpm...... Flushed the Core and reversed the hoses made it worse. Only thing I didn't do was change the water pump, but the care never even comes close to the hot mark, its hard enough to get it to the half mark....
Hi... I just replaced my blend door actuator...the old one was burnt up...manual temp control btw. My new actuator works but i noticed it seems to search for a position even though im not turning the dial. Probably why my old one burnt up. could my temp selector / rheostat be faulty? ever see this? Thanks
My 01 Taurus is having issues with heat. If the car is idling, it will warm up and the needle will move to the middle, but when you start driving the air cools down and the needle drops back down to C. Any advice?
Awesome video. What is the part that connects the actuator. The part behind the metal covering that has a spring? Mine broke at some point, but I cannot find what the part would be in order to replace it. Thanks
what year is the one in the video, 2000 and up or does it even matter I have a 2000 that has now heat. actuator is operational not sure if the door is function gonna check...otherwise good vid
I believe this was a 2001. The actuators and doors rarely fail on the newer Taurus vehicles. I would check out my other two videos on changing the heater core and flushing the system out. NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Rusty Coolant Flush Procedure NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Heater Core Removal
I NEED HELP LOL. I bought a 99 taurus for my daughter and heater core is good and actuator is working, but the bottom door linkage is broken off. I have removed the dash and am trying to get the bottom half of the dash (blower motor area) removed so that I can replace the part that the last idiot bypassed rather than fix. Any good suggestions on this? I'm not even sure how they did it lol but they messed something up and now there is nothing to hook the linkage I got at the junk yard to. It is like they removed the entire lower blend door from the inside. Any ideas? Hell at this point I'd give you my home address to stop by and help....Thanks for any suggestions! Mechanic Misty is headed back to the shed to see what she can mess up now.
+Misty Richard If the lower door is missing there is a new door from Ford that can be install while the box is in the car TSB 02-23-6 otherwise just remove the case.
+FordTechMakuloco Well come to find out that the radiator, heater core, and half of the hoses in and out of the heater core were completely clogged with sediment and rust. I did the flush, took all the hoses a lose and flushed them individual and replaced the heater core. She is running like a top now! Thanks for all the videos and advice. We can't afford a mechanic so it's pretty much do it yourself or don't drive and your videos have been invaluable. Oh and anyone asking about the secondary blend door, mine was bypassed due to a replacement authorized by ford. The little plastic pieces kept breaking off so they took the entire secondary door out. If anyone else buys a used one and doesn't see the bottom knob to attach the linkage it has been bypassed so move on to heater core or flush.
NEED HELP!!! 2006 Ford Taurus. the blend door actuator isn't moving. I put a brand new one in and still isn't moving. I also replaced the hot to cold switch. still nothing. I'm at a loss to what the problem is. please help.
I have a 2000 mercury sable gs. Had to replace reservoir cap - long story short, the temp on the dashboard shows the needle rising from mid point to almost hitting the red line, when the car is on and idled (say a long red light). I checked the connections and all seem fine, no visible leakage. Could it be a thermostat issue and if not looked at will it cause damage to engine, she runs fine, just need a little advice.
When I get under there to look at it my shield looks like it's missing, I see no spring anywhere in sight, and the lever doesn't come down when I switch from hot to cold. I lowered the glove box to see the actuator from the top and can see the "elbow" of the lever go up when I switch it but nothing comes down to move the spring (if it was there). What should I do in this case?
Jordan Rogers Looks like you have multiple pieces broken or missing both doors must move for full heat compare to min in the video and repair it with new components so that it is fully functional like this one and then you can test from there.
So I have replaced the actuator but still no heat. I know heater core is good because I manually move the blend door and get hot air. Could it be knob/switch? There is no movement in actuator when I turn switch cold to hot. How can you check if the switch is bad?
I have a 99 taurus and the shield, linkage, return spring, and secondary door (lever?) are all gone. Where the secondary door lever should be, you can see where it looks like the lever broke off, like a little nub that is flat and can't be manually turned, but I don't see any way to replace it. Any tips? I have warm, but not hot air. Thanks!
There is a tsb and the door available separately for that year I can send you the tsb to your email. The rest of the parts you will have to make sure you can find first as I believe they are not available separate from the box. Your best bet may be the junk yard to rob the pieces off of.
So I got a hold of a 2000 Taurus with heat issues. Basically the temperature is normal, and it will blow out heat for about 10 seconds or so before going completely cold. I have peeked down at the actuator and saw the arm is moving properly. Both the heater hoses are quite hot to the touch as well so this baffles me. Any ideas?
Hi I have a 2005 ford Taurus and the problem is I don't have any heat a changed the heater core on one of the ends it stuck with rust, but I still don't have heat I checked the door actuator and it seems that its working properly the and the temperature it looks fine so what can it be? I hope you can respond me
J Guadalupe Almaraz Ok so you changed the heater core and the actuator turns back and forth just fine and no heat just cool air. I assume the engine heats up notmally to the middle of the gauge? Also was a flush done? Was the air bled from the cooling system after the repair?
broken free on line and now no heat, but blower works just blowing out cold air and temp gage is in middle were it should. husband hit cement divider and thought he jsut broke free on line, but after that the heater just blowes cold air. what to do?
Hey man, Great videos, but I have a few questions that I'm certain you can help with. I have a 2000 Taurus, 3.0 V6 that isn't getting any heat. How do I determine if it's the blend actuator or the heater core? When you turned the temperature knob to move the metal actuator (around 2:08), is the car on or off or does that not matter? If the car doesn't seem to vary in terms of temperature from the vents, is it more likely the actuator than the heater core? I assume the blend actuator controls the blend of hot to cold mixture and opens the specified vents that the driver specifies, correct? Thanks for your help!
Yes you will need to verify blend door operation as shown in the video, otherwise with the car hot You can actually feel that rectangular cover under the actuator where the heater core slides out of and it should be almost too hot to touch. Have you check the coolant level and condition and if the car ever heats up fully?
FordTechMakuloco I've checked the coolant levels and felt the hose go from cold to hot so I know the thermostat works and isn't stuck open. The car will heat up fine and the temperature reading on the dash will sit perfectly between hot and cold once it's warmed up. I believe the blend door didn't move when I turned the temperature knob on the dash, but I still had the metal cover bolted on -- I'll double check with it off. How will I know it's a bad actuator vs bad wiring? Use a multimeter on the connectors?
If the actuator does not move. turn all the way to cold wait 10 seconds then turn all the way hot and listen very close you can hear the motor inside even though the shaft may not be that tell you the wiring is ok. I have never pinned out a electrical connector for actuators that's how often wiring is the problem.
Okay I had a 96 Ford Taurus station wagon hands down absolutely the coldest vehicle I ever owned and the driver side windshield would never defrost all the way while the passenger side defrosted perfectly until I figured it out I tried everything at first radiator cap thermostat nothing made a difference but if you look where the heater hoses go into the heater core just below the heater core there is a tee fitting on each side just below the heater core and lo and behold there's a hose that connects those two fittings now in the eng-a-neers infinite wisdom this idiot thought well hey in the summer nothing flows through there that water gets stagnant obviously this engineer took absolutely nothing in hydrodynamics resistance the path of least which a heater core with all the turns creates tons of resistance the water got smart and said hey screw this we're going through the bypass trust me get a pair of vice grips clamp that hose off mine lasted at least 10 years with out cutting through the hose just sold it 6 months ago with the vice grip still attached leave the Sun visors down not all the way against the window you will have heat and the Sun Visor will fix the defrost problem on the driver side
I have a 97 mercury sable that doesn't blow out hot heat. We flushed the system and replaced the thermostat and still doesn't blow out extremely hot heat. Occasionally it will but doesnt last very long. If I turn the fan off for 1 min and then back on it blows out hot air but quickly cools down? any suggestions
Raphael Leonardo if it has that stupid bypass house, you need to watch my video I am about to upload. ALL THESE SUSPECTED HEATER CORE ISSUE, VICE GRIP THE BYPASS HOSE BETWEEN HEATER CORE TUBE SET UP! I am in process right now making a video on this!
I am looking for some help I have a 1998 Ford Taurus. The blower works and I let the engine temp get half way between hot and cold before I turn heat on. But when I turn it on it blows out warm air for only a cpl seconds then cold air..Need help its freezing here!
This concern happens when you have a clogged core. What happens is with the blower off the core has a small amount of flow through it but it has time to heat up then you turn the blower on the cold air comes past the core and blows the initial heat but because of the low flow it cant keep up and cools. Follow my video series on flushing and replacing the heater core. All parts are listed in the video description.
Probably not..... plastic gears, plastic rods, etc Like, if you have a box of 5000 different sized gears.... go for it But good luck just buying one part inside that actuator
Having heat issues as well on my Taurus. Had to replace the overflow reservoir (degass tank), then did a radiator flush- and suddenly no heat. And yes, I bleed the system twice. Still no heat. Any ideas?
OK...I'm hoping our problem is just the thermostat now. Our heater core was replaced about a year ago & we just had to replace a gasket last week. Our heater will get warm & then go cold. The temp gauge will get up around where it should be, but will drop down after a bit. Hopefully a new thermostat will fix it.
Hey man, I have a 99' ford Taurus... I was on the highway and the car just stopped going... Brought it to my girlfriends dad who changed tourqe converter, pump, shaft.. Everything is all new pretty much except for the tranny. So he got everything back together with all the new parts, and now it doesn't go in drive, it does go I reverse.. Any ideas of what it could possibly be. I'd be grateful for any suggestions, thanks
FordTechMakuloco I was afraid of that. We're talkin about a 2003 Taurus like the one shown. I'm gonna check the actuator thing right now. Perhaps thats the problem.
I actually have an issue where my blend door for COOLING won't open all the way, leaving my vehicle feeling somewhat cool but not cold a/c like it should. I forced it all the way down and the temps from my vents were much colder. I'm guessing my actuator is out of alignment or something.
FordTechMakuloco Found the problem; it was actually the thermostat knob. Wasn't turning all the way to cold. Took a pair of pliers, moved it to cold and it works great now. :D I overlooked something so simple..
The upper one correct that the connecting rod is hard to get into? I have found this stuff called plastic welder works wonders there is not much strain on this part as it only keeps the rod from falling off. The stuff is made by Versachem and is simply called plastic welder, any auto parts store has it. If they don't have this brand that I know is good and plastic welder epoxy from a name brand will work. Just make sure it is made specifically for plastic only. Don't get one of those 60 sec epoxy that does glass metal plastic etc.
Love your video's. fiances 2001 sable, has absolutely no heat, no matter which position - it'll blow ice cold air.. I've done coolant flush 2 times, and both used V9 iron out, along with ford gold coolant. checked heater core in/outlet, One is warm/hot. Otherside is cold. I don't think its heater core.. or is it? I've replaced thermostat, and still no dice, i checked the blend actuator, however I never removed the shield.... I seen the arm moving up and down. Could the spring have broke or come off? uncertain how common that would be. Think its the actuator? Or is the a vacuum controlled option for heat? Otherwise.. is it heater core? Coolant drained clean., even after V9.
Your core is plugged for sure you are getting no flow follow my video on how to change it yourself they are very easy and she will love you for it when the cold weather sets in. PM me on facebook if you have any concerns.
Mak, we flushed the system and did that. Still no heat, and the temp gauge says real low... doesn't come up to what was the normal operating temperature. Hot water pipe in to the heater core is hot, return is cold. We think the core could be air bound but can't get any air out. I did get a little heat thru the vents, but it went to cold in about a minute first time run after refilling system. The one other thing is the temperature control switch. I think it's no good. Seems the switch could be stuck in the cold position. I have a new one coming... YH-1558 for a 96 Taurus. I'll report back once it's in. It should be here Thursday or Friday morning.
Well first thing you need to do is get the engine at proper temp then worry about it from there. The upper radiator hose should be hot enough you cant grab it for more than 2 seconds.
winniem1989 I have the same issue. I saw somewhere on the internet undoing your battery terminals and letting it sit for 15 minutes might fix it. I would look into it more first and make sure it isn't a hard reset for the car or anything, might be more trouble than it's worth in those regards.
You turn it to blow out the dash, or on your feet Set fan speed to 1 Then move from hot to cold....or cold to hot When you move the temp knob, that electric motor should move
dude i could make sweet love to you right now! you just saved me 1000 BUCKS!!! you are a great man. i am missing ALL the arm parts...that metal guard the arm the spring, its just not there....the plastic thing is broken off too
no, i guess there is one with no secondary blend door, an after market part maybe? but yeah i had to pull the heater core, i did it myself with your video!!. I got a good look in there and sure enough no blend door in there. I have great heat now , but it was the heater core, thanks again!
+Ron Fisher wait Ron! did you say that there is no secondary part to the blend door? It looks like the 99 I have has already been worked on and that entire secondary blend door has been replaced with no linkage attachments. I hauled off to Pull-a-Part and got the linkage and secondary blend door piece but sigh the bottom of the dash is not coming off very easily! Anyway let me know if you found a part that has no use for the secondary blend door
mine just doesnt have that part! i took it all apart and looked and i just didnt have a secondary blend door. so i replaced my heater core....it sucked but it worked. i must have put it back together wrong though because now my heat is always on a little, just a little. it was a little rough all summer but worth it for Minnesotas winter. i did the heater core myself and it was tough but doable.
I HAVE NO AC,OR HEAT. I HEAR A CLICK UNDER MY STEERING WHEEL IT CLICKS ONE TIME ON ONE TIME OFF ITS A 03 TAURUS. R&R THE JA1536 NO NOT IT HAHA, YOU NO WHAT IT COULD BE ???
That's the relay Is your fan blowing? If you have no air flow.... look at the blower fan motor, relay, and resistor network If fan blows, look at the actuator
And stop using all capital letters..... use punctuation.... and think before you type What you wrote is hard to understand..... Makes you look like a 12 year old, or 92 year old
I've been searching forums across the internet for the last three days because not only did I just get the fifth alternator, I have also been having all the same issues as other owners. Alarm going off by itself, windshield wipers same thing, dome lights that won't turn off, headlights that won't go off, door ajar signalling (that one may be dirty sensors) Almost nobody was able to find answers to any of this, even at the Ford dealerships. These cars had serious electrical issues.
+Jennifer Pecha I'm the second owner of an 03, the first was my father. We had one alternator go. Other than that, solid car. over 242k on it. Still drives great.
TBL-TTB, you got lucky then. I didn't. There are so many complaints about that car online about the wonky wiring and other problems. Best thing about that car? I got rid of it last August :)
I have a 99 Ford Taurus and I just had everything changed & replaced about two months ago but now my car is back to over heating and it will go all the way to the H then go back down in the middle is there any advice you could give me or what could be wrong the gauges are jumping & my heat went out
Thanks for this helpful video. Bought a new actuator from Rock Auto. I replaced my actuator in about 30 minutes and it fixed my heat issue. Just in time because no heat at the end of October makes for a cold ride home from work at 3am.
Thank you so much. I am working on a 2002 Taurus SES sedan and now your video allowed me to get the heater working. It was the actuator!
2003 Ford Taurus SE my radiator
2003 Ford Taurus SE heater core
Best advice on the Internet 95% of the time
Hey guys before replacing if you have a auto climate control try holding off and floor buttons at the same time. Then real quick hit auto button. Its going to have 3 little lines on the screen let it run until u see codes press the front defrost button. Just something that worked for me
Wrong era of car. You're talking 2010's. This is a 2003ish and they are all manual.
After chasing no heat issues for a while we figured out the water pump impeller was rusted off. It still cooled fine because the fans were stuck on all the time because the a/c switch on the high side was bad. Which is also why it didnt heat the cabin because it wasnt getting fully up to operating temp even though the gauge said it was normal. So make sure youre fans arnt running all the time
Thanks, did not solve my problem but helped eliminate something that could have been the problem.
Last night I couldn't get my 2010 Ford Taurus to start finally got it jump started and now my heater don't work won't even turn on. I am a single mom and no man around to help me figure it out. Any ideas would be appreciated.
2:10 what is the silver looking bar that’s moving and can I obtain just the bar everything’s working just don’t have the little bar would that also cause my no heat issue I only have ac
on my 2000 ford Taurus SES 3.0 flex fuel V6. I have heat but it will come and go, if I turn the heat on when it gets to operating temp it will blow hot for a couple mins but then go cool/warm and each time i turn the heat off then on it will do this, i just had a shop flush the cooling system and back flush the heater core, heater core was not clogged and they did not use a chemical just water and a power flush machine, came out clean. What could be the case. It blows on all settings.
Hey Makuloco, showing how you get to the actuator assembly would be helpful. Does one have to pull the center console and the stereo, or can you pull the stereo w/o pulling the center console? I've three of the four bolts the fourth bolt closest to the drivers door and floor board is proving to be a hard nut to crack, and looks impossible to re-install in w/o removing stereo.
HELP.
THX
Edward
Edward Carnajz what year?
FordTechMakuloco hey guy, I have a 09 ford taurus and for a few days the heater would come on and off by itself and today it finally didn't turn on , any ideas ? You think it might be electrical
I have a heating problem. No heat I changed the heater core made sure the acuwater door works properly all seals are good and changed the thermostat filled with antifreeze. Now I have heat but not really hot just barely warm. Any thoughts. Thanks
Terry
I need to replace those, what does it called?? I was about to replace the heater core but now I noticed what’s missing is the leakage!!! I need to know what are the parts are called
Do you know what the function is of that secondary door? I did a heater core and one of these cars a couple of years ago, and now she's saying that it heats good through the vents and through the defrost, but the air is cold coming out of the floor registers. I know I broke that plastic tab when I removed the heater core, and used a stamped tin nut on the plastic stud to keep the rod from coming dismounted. Wondering if that secondary door not actuating would cause no heat on the floor only?
I know this was a couple years ago but I just broke my plastic tab. Can you send me the dimensions of the stamped tin nut? Maybe picture some how ?? I was thinking of using a star washer and force it on the plastic studs. Please and thank you
@@MrSGTHaynes I'm sorry I dont remember. If I were to guess, I would say 3/16? A star washer would work much better, I just used what I had laying around. Hope you can get it back together!!
My cooling system and heater core were flushed and both run clear water. New thermostat installed too. System refilled with antifreeze mix but still no heat. Blend doors seem to be working as I can hear them. [I have a new bend door actuator to install from 1AAuto]. The parts store I go to says they think the heater core is air bound. How do you get the air out?
GT182/66GTO Was the coolant real rusty before? Get engine to operating temp and then rev it in park at 2500 rpm to see if the heat comes back.
I had a bad blend door actuator and I replaced it. Now that it was finally working again, it caused a small piece of plastic to break off. When the metal rod is supposed to push open the secondary door, it does not. The top of the metal piece is supposed to attach to the lever that the blend door actuator rotates on a little plastic nub. The nub has broken off so the primary door opens but not the secondary. I have looked around the internet to see what that part is called but have been unable to figure it out. If you know the name of that lever that moves for the primary and is supposed to move secondary via the metal piece I would love to know what it's called. Thanks.
I think the same piece broke on mine and wondered if you ever figured out the name of the part?
I'm currently dealing with this issue and so on the secondary door I turned the peg that has the spring attached and put a zip tie to hold it in place to allow the cold air to flow out of the vents.
Probably need the whole air block assembly and may not be sold as a single part
What if I'm workin on a sable with atc and a new heat blend door is not responding to digital temp control? Is it the atc climate control module under the radio?
what is the spring and plastic piece called mines missing?
Looking for some advice here. I have a 2000 ranger with a 3.0 that's has almost no heat. it will get here for a while and then lose it. running out of ideas. flushed the coolant system, Heater core, thermostat is good and has a new water pump.
+Caleb Berkebile Ok so I assume the you have check the actuator to make sure it responds to commands? Also have you burped the air from the system?
+FordTechMakuloco Yes, the actuator responds and I burped the system
Ok try this procedure-
Fill the degas bottle to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the COLD FILL line.
Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard.
Turn the climate control system off.
Start the engine and increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off for and wait for 1 minute to purge any large air pockets from the cooling system.
WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
Start the engine and let it idle until the engine reaches normal operating temperature and the thermostat is fully open. A fully open thermostat is verified by the cooling fan cycling on at least once.
Increase the engine speed to 3,500 rpm and hold for 30 seconds.
Allow the engine to idle for 30 seconds.
Turn the engine off for 1 minute.
Repeat steps 9 through 11 a total of 5 times to remove any remaining air trapped in the system.
WARNING: Always allow the engine to cool before opening the cooling system. Do not unscrew the coolant pressure relief cap when the engine is operating or the cooling system is hot. The cooling system is under pressure; steam and hot liquid can come out forcefully when the cap is loosened slightly. Failure to follow these instructions may result in serious personal injury.
Check the engine coolant level in degas bottle and if necessary fill to 25 mm (0.984 in) above the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL on the degas bottle if the engine is warm or to the top of the COLD FILL LEVEL if the engine is cold.
Install the degas bottle cap until at least 1 audible click is heard.
+FordTechMakuloco Thanks! I'll try this and get back to you. love the videos bud. The one on the 4.6 and 5.4 cam phasers really helped on project
I have a 2006 Taurus. It blows hot/cold no problem but only out of the defrost. It will also turn off when the knob is in the up position, but again only defrost otherwise. Can you help?
+sealious1 you have lost all vacuum to the hvac head unit. Make sure the black vacuum line on the passenger side firewall is hooked up and is being supplied engine vacuum. After that go to the hvac head unit and look for that same black hose and test for vacuum being present. All of this while the engine is on of course.
My 98 Taurus runa a hair above the cold mark, new heater core, 2 Thermostats later, I still only have luke warm heat at 2k rpm...... Flushed the Core and reversed the hoses made it worse. Only thing I didn't do was change the water pump, but the care never even comes close to the hot mark, its hard enough to get it to the half mark....
Hi... I just replaced my blend door actuator...the old one was burnt up...manual temp control btw. My new actuator works but i noticed it seems to search for a position even though im not turning the dial. Probably why my old one burnt up. could my temp selector / rheostat be faulty? ever see this? Thanks
My 01 Taurus is having issues with heat. If the car is idling, it will warm up and the needle will move to the middle, but when you start driving the air cools down and the needle drops back down to C. Any advice?
+Anthony Winebrenner Check the coolant level you can either have air I the system from a leak or a faulty thermostat which I have a video on changing.
Having the same problem, I think...
The silver arm is stuck in cooling position; is this caused by the actuator?
Hi does this apply if I only get Heat from vent? Please any ideas about that issue?
Good morning. I really need to know how remove the presion celenoid on a Ford Taurus 1996.Thanks
Daughter's 97 Mercury Sable puts out no heat but overheats when you leave the heater on. Runs at normal temp with heater off.
Awesome video. What is the part that connects the actuator. The part behind the metal covering that has a spring? Mine broke at some point, but I cannot find what the part would be in order to replace it. Thanks
what year is the one in the video, 2000 and up or does it even matter I have a 2000 that has now heat. actuator is operational not sure if the door is function gonna check...otherwise good vid
I believe this was a 2001. The actuators and doors rarely fail on the newer Taurus vehicles. I would check out my other two videos on changing the heater core and flushing the system out.
NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Rusty Coolant Flush Procedure
NO HEAT: Ford Taurus Heater Core Removal
I NEED HELP LOL. I bought a 99 taurus for my daughter and heater core is good and actuator is working, but the bottom door linkage is broken off. I have removed the dash and am trying to get the bottom half of the dash (blower motor area) removed so that I can replace the part that the last idiot bypassed rather than fix. Any good suggestions on this? I'm not even sure how they did it lol but they messed something up and now there is nothing to hook the linkage I got at the junk yard to. It is like they removed the entire lower blend door from the inside. Any ideas? Hell at this point I'd give you my home address to stop by and help....Thanks for any suggestions! Mechanic Misty is headed back to the shed to see what she can mess up now.
+Misty Richard If the lower door is missing there is a new door from Ford that can be install while the box is in the car TSB 02-23-6 otherwise just remove the case.
+FordTechMakuloco Well come to find out that the radiator, heater core, and half of the hoses in and out of the heater core were completely clogged with sediment and rust. I did the flush, took all the hoses a lose and flushed them individual and replaced the heater core. She is running like a top now! Thanks for all the videos and advice. We can't afford a mechanic so it's pretty much do it yourself or don't drive and your videos have been invaluable. Oh and anyone asking about the secondary blend door, mine was bypassed due to a replacement authorized by ford. The little plastic pieces kept breaking off so they took the entire secondary door out. If anyone else buys a used one and doesn't see the bottom knob to attach the linkage it has been bypassed so move on to heater core or flush.
I replaced my actuator and still dosen't move. I got a digital control panel. Any suggestions????? 2000 ford Taurus se
NEED HELP!!! 2006 Ford Taurus. the blend door actuator isn't moving. I put a brand new one in and still isn't moving. I also replaced the hot to cold switch. still nothing. I'm at a loss to what the problem is. please help.
Is it plugged in.
I have a 2000 mercury sable gs. Had to replace reservoir cap - long story short, the temp on the dashboard shows the needle rising from mid point to almost hitting the red line, when the car is on and idled (say a long red light). I checked the connections and all seem fine, no visible leakage. Could it be a thermostat issue and if not looked at will it cause damage to engine, she runs fine, just need a little advice.
Do fan come on when the needle rises? It does sound like you need a thermostat yes, is the inside heat ok even at idle?
When I get under there to look at it my shield looks like it's missing, I see no spring anywhere in sight, and the lever doesn't come down when I switch from hot to cold. I lowered the glove box to see the actuator from the top and can see the "elbow" of the lever go up when I switch it but nothing comes down to move the spring (if it was there). What should I do in this case?
Jordan Rogers Looks like you have multiple pieces broken or missing both doors must move for full heat compare to min in the video and repair it with new components so that it is fully functional like this one and then you can test from there.
So I have replaced the actuator but still no heat. I know heater core is good because I manually move the blend door and get hot air. Could it be knob/switch? There is no movement in actuator when I turn switch cold to hot. How can you check if the switch is bad?
texasraised214 Did you change it out without pulling the dash? Is it a Ford oem one, which year Taurus are we talking here please.
FordTechMakuloco Yes. Used the "shortcut" method for a 97 model. Parts are aftermarket from autozone.
I have heard plenty of stories about the aftermarket actuators and I bet yours is the same. I would throw and oem one in there and go from there.
I have a 99 taurus and the shield, linkage, return spring, and secondary door (lever?) are all gone. Where the secondary door lever should be, you can see where it looks like the lever broke off, like a little nub that is flat and can't be manually turned, but I don't see any way to replace it. Any tips? I have warm, but not hot air. Thanks!
There is a tsb and the door available separately for that year I can send you the tsb to your email. The rest of the parts you will have to make sure you can find first as I believe they are not available separate from the box. Your best bet may be the junk yard to rob the pieces off of.
Hey did you have any luck finding the parts? I accidentally broke the plastic tabs that keeps the metal linkage in place.
I've actually been working on other issues that have popped up (lower ball joints, inner tie rods) and haven't had a chance to hunt them down yet
So I got a hold of a 2000 Taurus with heat issues. Basically the temperature is normal, and it will blow out heat for about 10 seconds or so before going completely cold. I have peeked down at the actuator and saw the arm is moving properly. Both the heater hoses are quite hot to the touch as well so this baffles me. Any ideas?
Bluetailvappy Still sounds like a heater core
Mine is doing this to and just noticed that the ac is coming on with the heat maybe a bad control switch on the console.
Hi I have a 2005 ford Taurus and the problem is I don't have any heat a changed the heater core on one of the ends it stuck with rust, but I still don't have heat I checked the door actuator and it seems that its working properly the and the temperature it looks fine so what can it be? I hope you can respond me
J Guadalupe Almaraz Ok so you changed the heater core and the actuator turns back and forth just fine and no heat just cool air. I assume the engine heats up notmally to the middle of the gauge? Also was a flush done? Was the air bled from the cooling system after the repair?
Thanks a lot! That was the problem it had air in the cooling system! GREAT VIDEOS!!!!!!
broken free on line and now no heat, but blower works just blowing out cold air and temp gage is in middle were it should. husband hit cement divider and thought he jsut broke free on line, but after that the heater just blowes cold air. what to do?
You broke a a/c line you mean? No coolant loss? Is the coolant bottle full? After accident was it nessecary to fill coolant? who fix a/c line?
Hey man,
Great videos, but I have a few questions that I'm certain you can help with. I have a 2000 Taurus, 3.0 V6 that isn't getting any heat. How do I determine if it's the blend actuator or the heater core? When you turned the temperature knob to move the metal actuator (around 2:08), is the car on or off or does that not matter? If the car doesn't seem to vary in terms of temperature from the vents, is it more likely the actuator than the heater core? I assume the blend actuator controls the blend of hot to cold mixture and opens the specified vents that the driver specifies, correct?
Thanks for your help!
Yes you will need to verify blend door operation as shown in the video, otherwise with the car hot You can actually feel that rectangular cover under the actuator where the heater core slides out of and it should be almost too hot to touch. Have you check the coolant level and condition and if the car ever heats up fully?
FordTechMakuloco I've checked the coolant levels and felt the hose go from cold to hot so I know the thermostat works and isn't stuck open. The car will heat up fine and the temperature reading on the dash will sit perfectly between hot and cold once it's warmed up. I believe the blend door didn't move when I turned the temperature knob on the dash, but I still had the metal cover bolted on -- I'll double check with it off. How will I know it's a bad actuator vs bad wiring? Use a multimeter on the connectors?
If the actuator does not move. turn all the way to cold wait 10 seconds then turn all the way hot and listen very close you can hear the motor inside even though the shaft may not be that tell you the wiring is ok. I have never pinned out a electrical connector for actuators that's how often wiring is the problem.
Okay I had a 96 Ford Taurus station wagon hands down absolutely the coldest vehicle I ever owned and the driver side windshield would never defrost all the way while the passenger side defrosted perfectly until I figured it out I tried everything at first radiator cap thermostat nothing made a difference but if you look where the heater hoses go into the heater core just below the heater core there is a tee fitting on each side just below the heater core and lo and behold there's a hose that connects those two fittings now in the eng-a-neers infinite wisdom this idiot thought well hey in the summer nothing flows through there that water gets stagnant obviously this engineer took absolutely nothing in hydrodynamics resistance the path of least which a heater core with all the turns creates tons of resistance the water got smart and said hey screw this we're going through the bypass trust me get a pair of vice grips clamp that hose off mine lasted at least 10 years with out cutting through the hose just sold it 6 months ago with the vice grip still attached leave the Sun visors down not all the way against the window you will have heat and the Sun Visor will fix the defrost problem on the driver side
leereed420
Hey man, punctuation is cool too. Ran outta breath tryna read all that
Now, if only you could find the punctuation keys on your keyboard.
I have a 2006 Ford Taurus. I don’t know what to start. I live in Florida so it’s not cold that often here.
Where
I have a 2007 taurus se the heater cool air how you know if its the blend door
The heater blows cool air
I have a 97 mercury sable that doesn't blow out hot heat. We flushed the system and replaced the thermostat and still doesn't blow out extremely hot heat. Occasionally it will but doesnt last very long. If I turn the fan off for 1 min and then back on it blows out hot air but quickly cools down? any suggestions
You need a core for sure here is how- th-cam.com/video/Z6b1GaRQAJY/w-d-xo.html
Raphael Leonardo if it has that stupid bypass house, you need to watch my video I am about to upload. ALL THESE SUSPECTED HEATER CORE ISSUE, VICE GRIP THE BYPASS HOSE BETWEEN HEATER CORE TUBE SET UP! I am in process right now making a video on this!
I am looking for some help I have a 1998 Ford Taurus. The blower works and I let the engine temp get half way between hot and cold before I turn heat on. But when I turn it on it blows out warm air for only a cpl seconds then cold air..Need help its freezing here!
This concern happens when you have a clogged core. What happens is with the blower off the core has a small amount of flow through it but it has time to heat up then you turn the blower on the cold air comes past the core and blows the initial heat but because of the low flow it cant keep up and cools. Follow my video series on flushing and replacing the heater core. All parts are listed in the video description.
I have a 2006 Ford Taurus where I know the actuator is the issue. Could i fix the actuator instead of buying a new one?
Probably not..... plastic gears, plastic rods, etc
Like, if you have a box of 5000 different sized gears.... go for it
But good luck just buying one part inside that actuator
Having heat issues as well on my Taurus. Had to replace the overflow reservoir (degass tank), then did a radiator flush- and suddenly no heat. And yes, I bleed the system twice. Still no heat. Any ideas?
samthing happen to me.. guess the wise guys took a nap on this one!
OK...I'm hoping our problem is just the thermostat now. Our heater core was replaced about a year ago & we just had to replace a gasket last week. Our heater will get warm & then go cold. The temp gauge will get up around where it should be, but will drop down after a bit. Hopefully a new thermostat will fix it.
Make sure you get all the air purged out too.
Hey man, I have a 99' ford Taurus... I was on the highway and the car just stopped going... Brought it to my girlfriends dad who changed tourqe converter, pump, shaft.. Everything is all new pretty much except for the tranny. So he got everything back together with all the new parts, and now it doesn't go in drive, it does go I reverse.. Any ideas of what it could possibly be. I'd be grateful for any suggestions, thanks
Ford.
Ok only getting cold air took off the shield and the arm isn't attached on the inside end therefore it isn't moving .. What do I do?
Thomas Gillies So the shaft it attaches to is broken off and now both doors are not linked?
How do I get to the DOOR itself? Maybe that is my problem.
You have to pull the dash and part of the box apart but is doable. Which year and model?
FordTechMakuloco I was afraid of that. We're talkin about a 2003 Taurus like the one shown. I'm gonna check the actuator thing right now. Perhaps thats the problem.
I actually have an issue where my blend door for COOLING won't open all the way, leaving my vehicle feeling somewhat cool but not cold a/c like it should. I forced it all the way down and the temps from my vents were much colder. I'm guessing my actuator is out of alignment or something.
The door binds and eventually break you will need to replace it.
FordTechMakuloco Found the problem; it was actually the thermostat knob. Wasn't turning all the way to cold. Took a pair of pliers, moved it to cold and it works great now. :D I overlooked something so simple..
I changed tstat 2007 taurus. No heat also I put spring towards engine.
Where in car was this?
is there an easy fix to repair this my clip is broken that holds the arm on. the dealer says you have to buy the whole box for $400
The upper one correct that the connecting rod is hard to get into? I have found this stuff called plastic welder works wonders there is not much strain on this part as it only keeps the rod from falling off. The stuff is made by Versachem and is simply called plastic welder, any auto parts store has it. If they don't have this brand that I know is good and plastic welder epoxy from a name brand will work. Just make sure it is made specifically for plastic only. Don't get one of those 60 sec epoxy that does glass metal plastic etc.
FordTechMakuloco thanks ill give it a try
All I have left is the plastic stud that goes through the rod. I just got the car don't see the other piece that broke off
Nate Hardy I would try to get one from a junkyard.
Love your video's.
fiances 2001 sable, has absolutely no heat, no matter which position - it'll blow ice cold air.. I've done coolant flush 2 times, and both used V9 iron out, along with ford gold coolant. checked heater core in/outlet, One is warm/hot. Otherside is cold.
I don't think its heater core.. or is it? I've replaced thermostat, and still no dice,
i checked the blend actuator, however I never removed the shield.... I seen the arm moving up and down. Could the spring have broke or come off? uncertain how common that would be.
Think its the actuator? Or is the a vacuum controlled option for heat? Otherwise.. is it heater core? Coolant drained clean., even after V9.
Your core is plugged for sure you are getting no flow follow my video on how to change it yourself they are very easy and she will love you for it when the cold weather sets in. PM me on facebook if you have any concerns.
FordTechMakuloco
Under the dash where bro????
What happens if the switch thing won’t move
Mak, we flushed the system and did that. Still no heat, and the temp gauge says real low... doesn't come up to what was the normal operating temperature. Hot water pipe in to the heater core is hot, return is cold. We think the core could be air bound but can't get any air out. I did get a little heat thru the vents, but it went to cold in about a minute first time run after refilling system. The one other thing is the temperature control switch. I think it's no good. Seems the switch could be stuck in the cold position. I have a new one coming... YH-1558 for a 96 Taurus. I'll report back once it's in. It should be here Thursday or Friday morning.
Well first thing you need to do is get the engine at proper temp then worry about it from there. The upper radiator hose should be hot enough you cant grab it for more than 2 seconds.
i have a 2010 tauras, my driver side has heat but not the passenger side
winniem1989 I have the same issue. I saw somewhere on the internet undoing your battery terminals and letting it sit for 15 minutes might fix it. I would look into it more first and make sure it isn't a hard reset for the car or anything, might be more trouble than it's worth in those regards.
If you haven't fixed it yet, thwre is a door in the heat vent under/behind the dash that gets jammed shut. Might be worth looking into it.
@@kingneef8354 that's not the problem here....
My 2011 Ford Taurus has heat from the vent on the drivers side but blows cold air on the passengers side. Help!
It's the blend door actuator for the passenger side
One actuator does driver side, the other does passigner
@@kainhall where do I get it from are there hard to replace it I have the same problem 2013 for taurus
@@marcogalvanthedocumentarya1666 hi, I am thinking about getting a 2013 Ford Taurus any major problems or suggestions you might have
@@denisemathis6966 not really the car is reliable the engine's on this car's are very quiet they are nice to travel for a long drive real confortable
So you turn the heat on to make that move
You turn it to blow out the dash, or on your feet
Set fan speed to 1
Then move from hot to cold....or cold to hot
When you move the temp knob, that electric motor should move
I regret buying my Ford Taurus
Join the club
Me too
what if it is stuck
+Samantha Pitts There is a tsb for the lower door that binds
whats your number
To all video makers...PLEASE state the YEAR. One year difference can be like a completely different make of car.
Nope all of these are the same 96-2007
@@FordTechMakuloco what about 2008? Engine heats up but not getting good heat from blower. Same type of fix for the 08?
dude i could make sweet love to you right now! you just saved me 1000 BUCKS!!! you are a great man. i am missing ALL the arm parts...that metal guard the arm the spring, its just not there....the plastic thing is broken off too
Ron Fisher Oh wow someone has been in there huh.
no, i guess there is one with no secondary blend door, an after market part maybe? but yeah i had to pull the heater core, i did it myself with your video!!. I got a good look in there and sure enough no blend door in there. I have great heat now , but it was the heater core, thanks again!
+Ron Fisher wait Ron! did you say that there is no secondary part to the blend door? It looks like the 99 I have has already been worked on and that entire secondary blend door has been replaced with no linkage attachments. I hauled off to Pull-a-Part and got the linkage and secondary blend door piece but sigh the bottom of the dash is not coming off very easily! Anyway let me know if you found a part that has no use for the secondary blend door
mine just doesnt have that part! i took it all apart and looked and i just didnt have a secondary blend door. so i replaced my heater core....it sucked but it worked. i must have put it back together wrong though because now my heat is always on a little, just a little. it was a little rough all summer but worth it for Minnesotas winter. i did the heater core myself and it was tough but doable.
I HAVE NO AC,OR HEAT. I HEAR A CLICK UNDER MY STEERING WHEEL IT CLICKS ONE TIME ON ONE TIME OFF ITS A 03 TAURUS. R&R THE JA1536 NO NOT IT HAHA, YOU NO WHAT IT COULD BE ???
That's the relay
Is your fan blowing?
If you have no air flow.... look at the blower fan motor, relay, and resistor network
If fan blows, look at the actuator
And stop using all capital letters..... use punctuation.... and think before you type
What you wrote is hard to understand.....
Makes you look like a 12 year old, or 92 year old
Worst. Car. Ever. I know, I still have one, which has blown thru no less than 5 alternators in the 7 years I've owned it.
Something is wrong with the alternators then cause we almost never see alternators fail on these
I've been searching forums across the internet for the last three days because not only did I just get the fifth alternator, I have also been having all the same issues as other owners. Alarm going off by itself, windshield wipers same thing, dome lights that won't turn off, headlights that won't go off, door ajar signalling (that one may be dirty sensors) Almost nobody was able to find answers to any of this, even at the Ford dealerships. These cars had serious electrical issues.
+Jennifer Pecha I'm the second owner of an 03, the first was my father. We had one alternator go. Other than that, solid car. over 242k on it. Still drives great.
TBL-TTB, you got lucky then. I didn't. There are so many complaints about that car online about the wonky wiring and other problems. Best thing about that car? I got rid of it last August :)
I think the 3.0 liter Duratec cars have the alternator problems.
Ford taurus is the worst car ever made
I have a 99 Ford Taurus and I just had everything changed & replaced about two months ago but now my car is back to over heating and it will go all the way to the H then go back down in the middle is there any advice you could give me or what could be wrong the gauges are jumping & my heat went out
+Sharday Chapman Sounds like a blow head gasket to me.