Glad the motor frame was close enough to mount with minor modification. When you were talking about drilling and tapping new holes on the plate, I was yelling at you to drill the motor, not the plate. The only thing I would be aware of, is when you generate a phase using a converter or VFD, your motor horsepower rating drops by a percentage. The amount depends on the efficiency of the motor and the VFD or converter. You probably won't notice a difference considering you had a 1 horse in there. You always do nice clean work. A pleasure to watch.
+Ken Wolfe I was (planning) on drilling the holes because I really thought the pattern was going to be a lot larger than the small base I have now. But luckily I didn't have to do anything - what a delight. Glad you're liking the video - appreciate it!
Hey Brad, I really enjoy your videos. I like the way you take such pride in your craftsmanship. Thanks so much for taking us on the journey as do these projects!
Brad, after six years of service, several 5 to 15 HP motors at work driven by VFDs ended up with destroyed bearings. The cause is said to be high frequency current from the VFD passing through the bearings. I've seen the result: etched races and balls and trashed grease. To prevent future bearing failures we added annular grounding brushes to keep the motor frame and shaft at the same potential. I understand "inverter rated" motors have this protection built in. I will soon be doing a similar conversion and am very interested in your project. Hope it turns out great! Jon
Never heard of that before or seen it in trade journals but I see how in rare conditions that could happen. I've had a VFD on my turret mill motor since 1993 (33 years?). I just went out and gave the mill motor a close listen with a stethoscope. No noise but the quiet whir of middle-aged bearings. No problem so far as I know with the 40 plus retrofits I've been involved in since I retired. I'll call around to old customers for late developments.
+Yan Wo I Googled and found several technical papers on the topic axial induced current in induction motor shafts.it appear to be a real concern in heavily loaded and frequently started motors. Seems the best solution is to install an insulator to interrupt circulating current. Now I think about it I have an old Audel's millwright handbook that addresses this in connection with large M/G sets rollonh mill motors, etc. Not so much lightly loaded motors. On our level that may be a problem looking for a manifestation. Interesting problem probably low incidence in small HP machine tools but enough to make me want to open a few dud motor bearings to inspect for distinctive ball track defects shown in the papers I just read. I've busted hundreds of junked bearings, salvaging balls for ammo and larger races for reforging into hunting knives but seldom saw more than a satiny trace or a few pits in the ball paths. Then there is immersion rust and lube failure but that's a different deal.
Very clean install. I'm changing the motor on my Atlas QC42. I've got the original atlas 3 phase 1/2hp motor. I swapping it with a 3/4 hp single phase. I like the idea with the plug system so you can move the lathe. I live those VFD's my electrical engineers tell me that brand is a very solid. Good job.
At 15:55 that connector nut is facing opposite the way I install them. I consider them like a lock washer with the tabs facing the box to help keep vibration from loosening them. This may or may not be correct but that is my practice. Just a thought.
Clean looking install so far -- looking forward to the finished product. One thing that I noticed is when you installed the liquid-tight conduit to the motor, you put the locknut on backwards. It works like a lock washer in that the tangs are angled down to bite into the metal box. Installed backwards, there's a good chance that it will vibrate loose over time.
I think it was factory on the older Lathes. this one was from the 40's I've also seen lots of 16's for sale with smaller motors. I put the 2hp motor back on my 13.
Another great video, Brad. Keep up the good work on TH-cam channel. I have a 9" and a 10" South Bend Lathe, and love them... I definitely want to add DRO and probably VFD for variable speed, too.
A VFD........man has this been coming for a while......Brad, you are going to love it.....as a owner of a 13" SB, I can feel your pain......those motors have to be in the worst location of any machine Ive ever seen, and that 5hp, wow a beast!........this is a great show on how to do this swap, thanks for putting the work into it..............my 1960 13" SB has a 3phase 2hp.....220vlt input.....running thru a Phase converter, so could I add a VFD to my set as is now?.............cant wait to see your next show.
I have a very similar Baldor driving an exhaust fan at work. it runs 24/7 and it gets 2 pumps of grease once a quarter. Not sure the age, but my boss has been there 12 years and he has never replaced the motor. Just make sure you clean the zerks before greasing it, pushing dirt into the bearings kills them.
+gadget73 You so right about bearing contamination and premature wreckage as a result! I'm amazed at the number of people I see that don't bother to clean the zerks OR the end of the grease gun before putting the two together! I am constantly getting on to my students about doing this job correctly.
Looks great! The one thing I don't understand about wiring in a VFD, is how do you get power to the other smaller motors? Every forum I scroll through, says you have to wire a VFD directly to the spindle motor. I ask because I was fortunate enough to get a good deal on an older Hardinge TFB lathe. I don't have 3 phase power, and everyone recommends VFDs, but I'm clueless on wiring it up. Help!
Crawling arround on the floor with heavy weight motors is a big workout! Luckely you only have to do it one time. Looking at all the wiring to be done gives me the creeps.....Good luck.... looking forward to part 2.
I want to do this exact modification to my 9" South Bend. What I'm curious to know is where did you get your info from and do you use a phase converter or does the VFD do that also.
Brad, can you cover how to program the motor overload in the VFD please? I put the same model on my mill when the motor shorted out using Stan's video but haven't figure how to do the overload protection yet. I have not done the final wiring so I very interested in the next video. Thanks for all the videos!
Your going to be amazed at the difference in your lathe Brad. I haven't done mine yet but have done the mill. The smoothness of power delivery, quietness, and the pre-sets on the programs and speeds make it well worth it. I'd bet you'll see much better surface finishes as well. 3 ph and VFD is the only way to go imo. Even more so for a lathe. Everyone's wants and needs are obviously different, but depending on your average depths of cuts and motor loads, I might have gone with about a 3 hp motor/VFD combination to give a bit more torque at the lower motor speeds. No big unsolvable issue though. Your normally not using the real low speeds much anyway. But even if it did become a bit of a problem you could always use a 3 or 4 step pulley set up as well as the VFD to keep it into the better torque range.
+Turning Point Yeah, I'm totally expecting it to be great in every way. It IS however, not that quiet - which bummed me out a bit. Apparently, the "vector" drives make a high pitches whizzing sound. No big deal, but my other Teco drive is near silent. Oh well. The drive is really good quality tho, so I suppose that's the important thing.
+BasementShopGuy I bought a heavy duty industrial rated Baldor VFD some years ago for my mill. They were a LOT more money at that time. The motor is a 3 hp 3 ph Taiwanese. It surprised me just how quiet and smooth it is. The VFD's onboard cooling fan is however quite loud. Seems we just can't win. :-)
Great video indeed. I'm real new at retrofitting electrical components such as replacing a single phase with a three phase motor. I barely understand the concepts, so we wont go into that. My question is, will you be hooking up your motor to 120v or 220v power supply and please show all the connections on your next video. Looking forward to more on this subject....Thanks ...Ken
Good job Brad , why did you use a vfd instead of a rotary ? The reason I ask is I'm going to have two 3 phase machines in my home shop and I'm trying to decide what to use .
+HS 53 I like the VFD because they offer a lot of different options like, ramping speeds, speed control, over-loading (running at higher hertz), skipable hertz, breaking-resistor capabilities, Emergency-stop capabilities and SO much more than I can even remember. I don't know that much about rotary-phase. Do they use motors to drive the unit? VFD's are cheap, easy to install.
Hi Brad. Another basement guy here with similar lathe. 13386TKX. I just converted 4 other 3 phase machines to VFD. Now I want to convert lathe to 3 phase with VFD. Would you mind sharing specs on motor. And would you get same one after running it for a while. BTW. Great instructional videos. Great to see people in the same boat. Cheers.
Hi Brad did I hear you correctly in saying that later on you intended to put a plug and socket between the lathe motor and the VFD ? I f did hear correctly I would advise against it, it's not good practice if a VFD suddenly looses it's load it will more than lightly be badly damaged. Keep the vids coming
Brad enjoyed the video. I am in the process of putting a 1938 13 in south bend together. It came in pieces and without a motor. in my search for a motor, should Ii look for 3400 rpm or 1750 or does it make a difference since I can change the motor pulley size and will be installing a vfd?
I have 220v in my garage I'm unsure of the amperage but I have 3 wires coming from my box but 4 prongs from my lathe I can wire a house with no problem but never run lathe wiring
hello sir just a question, ive bin told homes do not contain 3phase power even at 240 volts if this is true then is it possible your not gonna get 2hp from that motor ? i know for a fact my house only supplies 240 single phase ac 180 deg out of phase between the hots , im not interested in running 240 volts as this would add hundreds to my restoration cost 240 would be nice for welding but man this project is like restoring an old car for crying out loud
Way to go, Brad. That's going to be a smooth running lathe. Dial the motor down to 15 Hz, shift the feed tumbler to neutral, and you'll barely hear it running. That is unless you have a Clipper splice in your flat belt. Click. Click. Click... Quiet is contagious. I predict your next project to be noise mitigation.
BTW hang on to that 5 HP motor to power a bigger comperssor in the futurel You might want to run a media blaster or major air tools. Most defunct compressor systems I've seen died because the motor fried. Most often the old compressor (with a good pump, mind you) is junked and replaced with new as a better investment in the long term. Snap up the dud compressor, add your new motor ... bada-bing!
+Forrest Addy The drive causes the motor to have this high-pitched "whizzing" sound. Stan tells me, that it's the "vector" causing it. See how I referred to it within quotes? Haha - I hope to gain more understanding of industrial electronics.
+BasementShopGuy Brad, the "whizzing" sound is a high pitched sound? That may be carrier freq emitted by the motor. Iron changes shape slightly when magnetized - magneto-striction. You hardly hear it at low frequencies but 5 KHz can be annoying if your hearing is keen. You're a young giy; I bet you could track a bat by listening for its echo location. You can adjust the carrier frequency by tweaking the parameter listed in the manual. I suggest 15 KHz if you have the option. I don't think there is any significant reliability or performance penalty in doing so. I favor Yaskawa VFD's which have a 20 KHz serring. My machining experiences are unsullied by whistles, whines. or whizzes.
Do you have a cost brake down for the complete conversion? I have a southbend heavy 10 that was 440 3 phase when I got it. I changed the wiring and heaters as instructed from online sources to run 220v with a phase converter. It runs but it seems under powered and the switches seem to buzz more then I think they should (though I'm very uneducated in the matter).
Hi Brad - Thanks for the videos. Just a couple thoughts. Typically, a VFD is sized ~30% larger than your 3-phase motor, as they are not 100% efficient. Also, 10/4 is way overkill for a 2 HP motor unless you are a long ways away. My 4 HP VFD has a current draw of less than 14 amps at 220 VAC.
Brad, I'm at the very end of my 13" referbishment and I am searching for the data plates you used for the switches you used with your control box. Any chance you remember where they came from? Thanks
@@BasementShopGuy I have a 2hp single phase motor I was going to build a lathe around. Thinking I may want to use that for a mill, and use a 5hp for the lathe... how much you want for it?
+TODD FINK Oh there's plenty of uses for that beast. I just don't have a lot of the fab tools to build a lot of the things I've pictured in my head, lol.
You (and Stan) were very wise not to trust your drum switch. When I took the course on electric motors, at a very reputable University, under Prof. X (I do not wish to mention his name) we were introduced to the brand-new motors lab. Prof X said "these switches are the wrong rating but they'll work" and threw the switch. A foot-long flame shot out of the switch, burned a through hole (literally) in Prof X's hand, and he had to be hospitalized and was there two months. Our course was toast :) so I don't know as much about electric motors as I should. I think the moral is kind of obvious. It did make me wake up to the fact that all components in an electrical circuit have to be up to the job.Following these episodes very carefully because I too want a VFD on my lathe.
+Juan Rivero interesting story Juan. I'm glad to be able to help out with my video, but the real credit goes to Stan - he's been guiding me through all of this. I just don't have the experience with VFD's and motors, enough to know it cold. So he's kinda like the professor in this case. Only he knows his s___t :)
While it is poor practice I think in reality you could have got away with that 5hp on the drum switch for a long time. On a lathe like this you aren't picking up under load so the amp draw is mostly a function of load and I doubt you would be taking cuts approaching a 5hp load so the switch would not be under anymore strain than the cuts that you take. I am sure you will enjoy using the VFD though.
I believe that your Baldor motor (Standard-E) is not designed with AC drive. You must use "Super-E" in order to control properly the speed with constant torque (10:1) and to be safe than Standard-E with AC drive.
With a few exceptions, bolts have the nut tightened where with screws the screw is tightened. Screws usually come with hex nuts and bolts with square nuts.
VFD the only way to go , larger motor is always better for a lathe as an ac motor has little torque at low rpms it is nice not using the back gear and making belt changes- just turn the dial!
+BasementShopGuy Also a braking resistor . you dont need to buy an expensive resistor made by ac tech. all you need is a 100 ohm 100 watt power resistor for this application as this will barely get warm used on a lathe or a mill. Available on ebay for about 5-6 bucks
the ac tech resistor is 160 w 63 ohm for 2HP so you could use a 75-100 ohm 100w in my opinion because you are not starting & stopping the motor frequently as in factory process. On my lathe I have 2hp and a vfd and a small 100 ohm power resistor ,slows down quickly.
+BasementShopGuy - Screws go into a threaded hole in a solid object; bolts are fastened with nuts. (It's a finicky distinction, but Richard is correct.)
+Peter W. Meek Pete - of course I know the difference, but when you're working (and) filming, you're sometimes concentrating on how to explain things while trying to work in a camera-"smooth" way too. Do I (and other) mis-speak? ALL the time... these are just momentum-killing type of comments.
Can I ask why alot of americans so stubbornly uses "horsepower" when it comes to just about everything? Using watts when it comes to electrical stuff makes a whole alot more sense to be honest, especially when talking about stuff like amperage rating on stuff like a drum switch. Or do we actually talk about a drum switch that can take the force of two pulling horses before it physically rips apart? Just my two cents on the subject. Good video series anyhow :)
Why can’t people who are making these videos on how to do something tell us what they paid for the parts. For example this guy said that he got a good price for the motor on eBay well I don’t know what a good price is to you but to me it might be different. Just tell us the prices for god sake‘s so we know on the onset if this is something that we can do or if it’s out of our ballpark because of the cost.
Why on earth is that important? What if by a “good price “I got it for five dollars? Or what if I thought a good price was $200? You’re on your own to find your own good deal. And you’re also on your own to go do some research and see how much a motor costs as eBay prices can fluctuate. It’s a shame this needs to be stated to people who insist on posting negative complaining comments. Maybe I completely forgot what the price was and said “good price“ in terms of keeping the flow of the video going.
@@BasementShopGuy I didn’t mean any disrespect, but when people are trying to figure out what something like this costs when they just looking into this it would be a good reference point. Especially at the beginning of a video because then the viewer can decide if they’re going to watch the whole video or not because they may/may not be able to afford it. I know socially it is rude to ask for the price of something but in these videos I believe it’s a requirement. For example if you said at the beginning “this whole set up cost me around $400“ OK then I can stay tuned and watch all your other good videos. But if you say “all in all this cost me $1200” I know I can’t afford that so I’m gonna move on. Also you tell me to do my own research, yes that’s exactly why I’m on TH-cam watching you, my research. When you started looking into this weren’t you curious about the price it would cost you? Again no disrespect, I appreciate your posting informative videos. Just my 2 cents.
Glad the motor frame was close enough to mount with minor modification. When you were talking about drilling and tapping new holes on the plate, I was yelling at you to drill the motor, not the plate. The only thing I would be aware of, is when you generate a phase using a converter or VFD, your motor horsepower rating drops by a percentage. The amount depends on the efficiency of the motor and the VFD or converter. You probably won't notice a difference considering you had a 1 horse in there. You always do nice clean work. A pleasure to watch.
+Ken Wolfe I was (planning) on drilling the holes because I really thought the pattern was going to be a lot larger than the small base I have now. But luckily I didn't have to do anything - what a delight. Glad you're liking the video - appreciate it!
Hey Brad, I really enjoy your videos. I like the way you take such pride in your craftsmanship. Thanks so much for taking us on the journey as do these projects!
+MrMarcaap Thank YOU for enjoying them!
I am going through this same process on my Bridgeport, same VFD even. Thanks for the content!
Brad, after six years of service, several 5 to 15 HP motors at work driven by VFDs ended up with destroyed bearings. The cause is said to be high frequency current from the VFD passing through the bearings. I've seen the result: etched races and balls and trashed grease. To prevent future bearing failures we added annular grounding brushes to keep the motor frame and shaft at the same potential. I understand "inverter rated" motors have this protection built in. I will soon be doing a similar conversion and am very interested in your project. Hope it turns out great! Jon
Never heard of that before or seen it in trade journals but I see how in rare conditions that could happen. I've had a VFD on my turret mill motor since 1993 (33 years?). I just went out and gave the mill motor a close listen with a stethoscope. No noise but the quiet whir of middle-aged bearings. No problem so far as I know with the 40 plus retrofits I've been involved in since I retired. I'll call around to old customers for late developments.
+Yan Wo I think it'll be good. My machine isn't running for long hours, so I thin she'll live a long life :)
+BasementShopGuy I think you're correct. I hadn't thought of the duty cycle issue.
+Forrest Addy I found this then realized the company is the same one whose grounding brushes we used. So their data isn't exactly unbiased! :)
+Yan Wo I Googled and found several technical papers on the topic axial induced current in induction motor shafts.it appear to be a real concern in heavily loaded and frequently started motors. Seems the best solution is to install an insulator to interrupt circulating current.
Now I think about it I have an old Audel's millwright handbook that addresses this in connection with large M/G sets rollonh mill motors, etc. Not so much lightly loaded motors. On our level that may be a problem looking for a manifestation.
Interesting problem probably low incidence in small HP machine tools but enough to make me want to open a few dud motor bearings to inspect for distinctive ball track defects shown in the papers I just read. I've busted hundreds of junked bearings, salvaging balls for ammo and larger races for reforging into hunting knives but seldom saw more than a satiny trace or a few pits in the ball paths. Then there is immersion rust and lube failure but that's a different deal.
Very clean install. I'm changing the motor on my Atlas QC42. I've got the original atlas 3 phase 1/2hp motor. I swapping it with a 3/4 hp single phase. I like the idea with the plug system so you can move the lathe. I live those VFD's my electrical engineers tell me that brand is a very solid. Good job.
+brosselot1 Thanks man!
At 15:55 that connector nut is facing opposite the way I install them. I consider them like a lock washer with the tabs facing the box to help keep vibration from loosening them. This may or may not be correct but that is my practice. Just a thought.
+Roy Reynolds I'll check it out Roy - good eye, thanks!
Clean looking install so far -- looking forward to the finished product. One thing that I noticed is when you installed the liquid-tight conduit to the motor, you put the locknut on backwards. It works like a lock washer in that the tangs are angled down to bite into the metal box. Installed backwards, there's a good chance that it will vibrate loose over time.
+swp466 I'll check it out - thanks!
The older South Bends had smaller motors on them. I saw a 24 for sale and it only had 1-1/2 HP.
+1970chevelle396 That's not factory then. They shipped my 13" with a 2hp. The 16's and up probably had 3 and 4 hp motors.
I think it was factory on the older Lathes. this one was from the 40's I've also seen lots of 16's for sale with smaller motors. I put the 2hp motor back on my 13.
Another great video, Brad. Keep up the good work on TH-cam channel. I have a 9" and a 10" South Bend Lathe, and love them... I definitely want to add DRO and probably VFD for variable speed, too.
Hey Brad, Top notch set up man! Thanks for the shout out buddy!
+Ray Caniglia Haha - Sponsored by Ray's Garage! My PA brother :)
A VFD........man has this been coming for a while......Brad, you are going to love it.....as a owner of a 13" SB, I can feel your pain......those motors have to be in the worst location of any machine Ive ever seen, and that 5hp, wow a beast!........this is a great show on how to do this swap, thanks for putting the work into it..............my 1960 13" SB has a 3phase 2hp.....220vlt input.....running thru a Phase converter, so could I add a VFD to my set as is now?.............cant wait to see your next show.
+Rick L Oh, I know Rick. I have my VFD on my Mill and it's great.
I feel like I get so much work done when I'm watching one of these videos. It's kind of addicting.
+Kevin Hornbuckle Thanks Kevin!
Perfect video just got the same lathe
What kind of dial do you have on your cross slide? Looks nice.
I have a very similar Baldor driving an exhaust fan at work. it runs 24/7 and it gets 2 pumps of grease once a quarter. Not sure the age, but my boss has been there 12 years and he has never replaced the motor. Just make sure you clean the zerks before greasing it, pushing dirt into the bearings kills them.
+gadget73 GREAT point. And yes, those zerks do have some paint on them. I'll get em cleaned - thanks man!
+gadget73
You so right about bearing contamination and premature wreckage as a result!
I'm amazed at the number of people I see that don't bother to clean the zerks OR the end of the grease gun before putting the two together! I am constantly getting on to my students about doing this job correctly.
Looks great! The one thing I don't understand about wiring in a VFD, is how do you get power to the other smaller motors? Every forum I scroll through, says you have to wire a VFD directly to the spindle motor. I ask because I was fortunate enough to get a good deal on an older Hardinge TFB lathe. I don't have 3 phase power, and everyone recommends VFDs, but I'm clueless on wiring it up. Help!
I love it when others serve as Guinea pigs for my upcoming projects. Nice job--was feeling your pain on the motor swap. No fun!
+Thomas Utley Ha!
Nice job! Looking forward to part 2.
+phooesnax Coming soon!
Crawling arround on the floor with heavy weight motors is a big workout! Luckely you only have to do it one time. Looking at all the wiring to be done gives me the creeps.....Good luck.... looking forward to part 2.
+Rob Gerrits Thanks Rob - coming soon.
I want to do this exact modification to my 9" South Bend. What I'm curious to know is where did you get your info from and do you use a phase converter or does the VFD do that also.
Brad, can you cover how to program the motor overload in the VFD please? I put the same model on my mill when the motor shorted out using Stan's video but haven't figure how to do the overload protection yet. I have not done the final wiring so I very interested in the next video. Thanks for all the videos!
You bet - il be covering it.
+BasementShopGuy Thank you !
Your going to be amazed at the difference in your lathe Brad. I haven't done mine yet but have done the mill. The smoothness of power delivery, quietness, and the pre-sets on the programs and speeds make it well worth it. I'd bet you'll see much better surface finishes as well. 3 ph and VFD is the only way to go imo. Even more so for a lathe.
Everyone's wants and needs are obviously different, but depending on your average depths of cuts and motor loads, I might have gone with about a 3 hp motor/VFD combination to give a bit more torque at the lower motor speeds. No big unsolvable issue though. Your normally not using the real low speeds much anyway. But even if it did become a bit of a problem you could always use a 3 or 4 step pulley set up as well as the VFD to keep it into the better torque range.
+Turning Point Yeah, I'm totally expecting it to be great in every way. It IS however, not that quiet - which bummed me out a bit. Apparently, the "vector" drives make a high pitches whizzing sound. No big deal, but my other Teco drive is near silent. Oh well. The drive is really good quality tho, so I suppose that's the important thing.
+BasementShopGuy I bought a heavy duty industrial rated Baldor VFD some years ago for my mill. They were a LOT more money at that time. The motor is a 3 hp 3 ph Taiwanese. It surprised me just how quiet and smooth it is. The VFD's onboard cooling fan is however quite loud. Seems we just can't win. :-)
Thats a nice neat job you did the only way to go. thanks for sharing it with use.
+Ruben Thanks Ruben!
Nice vfd Brad! Lenze is a very good stuff. Nice work! Cool.
Pierre
+NECTOUX Pierre Thank You!
Forgot to mention I really enjoy your videos so keep it up.😄
+Richard Paisley Thanks Rich.
Great video indeed. I'm real new at retrofitting electrical components such as replacing a single phase with a three phase motor. I barely understand the concepts, so we wont go into that. My question is, will you be hooking up your motor to 120v or 220v power supply and please show all the connections on your next video. Looking forward to more on this subject....Thanks ...Ken
+Kenneth Bartlett , I was wondering the same. The outlet looks more like a 220V plug layout than a standard 110V outlet.
+Kenneth Bartlett Yup guys - it's 220 and I will be definitely showing every connection - gotcha covered :)
Great clean wiring job Brad , Should work well ! Thumbs up man..
+ShawnMrFixitlee Thanks Shawn, I hope to be doing the elect-savy folks, proud on this one!
Do you have a part number for the Baldor 2 hp motor you installed? Did it come with the pulleys?
Not being nitpicky just educating. Stove bolts and toggle bolts are two exceptions that come to mind.
Good job Brad , why did you use a vfd instead of a rotary ? The reason I ask is I'm going to have two 3 phase machines in my home shop and I'm trying to decide what to use .
+HS 53 I like the VFD because they offer a lot of different options like, ramping speeds, speed control, over-loading (running at higher hertz), skipable hertz, breaking-resistor capabilities, Emergency-stop capabilities and SO much more than I can even remember. I don't know that much about rotary-phase. Do they use motors to drive the unit? VFD's are cheap, easy to install.
Thanks for the info Brad .
Have you had any takers on the motor yet.
+The Texas Gun Guy Yeah, I believe we're going to do the deal at the NYC CNC open house.
+BasementShopGuy : Alright then thanks anyway.
Hi Brad. Another basement guy here with similar lathe. 13386TKX. I just converted 4 other 3 phase machines to VFD. Now I want to convert lathe to 3 phase with VFD. Would you mind sharing specs on motor. And would you get same one after running it for a while. BTW. Great instructional videos. Great to see people in the same boat. Cheers.
Hi Brad did I hear you correctly in saying that later on you intended to put a plug and socket between the lathe motor and the VFD ? I f did hear correctly I would advise against it, it's not good practice if a VFD suddenly looses it's load it will more than lightly be badly damaged.
Keep the vids coming
+Black Country Steam Yeah, I knew that too, and had a moment of temp-forgetfulness, Lol. I left it as is... :)
Brad enjoyed the video. I am in the process of putting a 1938 13 in south bend together. It came in pieces and without a motor. in my search for a motor, should Ii look for 3400 rpm or 1750 or does it make a difference since I can change the motor pulley size and will be installing a vfd?
I have read its best to get a 1750 because 3500 may not have the low speed torque. Not an expert though.
+DAVID ENGLAND 1750, 1735. The gear-train on the South Bends can NOT handle higher RMPS. Good luck!
+BasementShopGuy Thanks Brad. what size motor pulley are you using?
how important is reverse on a lathe
I have 220v in my garage I'm unsure of the amperage but I have 3 wires coming from my box but 4 prongs from my lathe I can wire a house with no problem but never run lathe wiring
That's a very nice pulley on the new motor - where did you get it? Thanks for taking the time to film, edit, and post these videos! -Chris
+bx2200 I made it - made it for my (old) motor. But it was within a few months. I have a video on it - check it out.
Great-thanks!
Nice job!
+DoRite Fabrication Thanks Jim ;)
Black cloth tape used to be called friction tape. I'm not sure why.
That was what was used before plastic electrical tape.
Thanks,
John
+John Bazaar Yeah - it definitely caused me a lot of friction, LOL
+BasementShopGuy
Sounds familiar. 😊
hello sir just a question, ive bin told homes do not contain 3phase power even at 240 volts if this is true then is it possible your not gonna get 2hp from that motor ? i know for a fact my house only supplies 240 single phase ac 180 deg out of phase between the hots , im not interested in running 240 volts as this would add hundreds to my restoration cost 240 would be nice for welding but man this project is like restoring an old car for crying out loud
Great work.
+specialks1953 Thanks.
Beautiful motor!
+jster1963 Thanks J2J ;)
Who is this Stan guy that provided the electrical components and how do I contact him?
Stan is from Bar-Z Industrial. Check out Shadon HKW on TH-cam
Way to go, Brad. That's going to be a smooth running lathe. Dial the motor down to 15 Hz, shift the feed tumbler to neutral, and you'll barely hear it running. That is unless you have a Clipper splice in your flat belt. Click. Click. Click...
Quiet is contagious. I predict your next project to be noise mitigation.
BTW hang on to that 5 HP motor to power a bigger comperssor in the futurel You might want to run a media blaster or major air tools. Most defunct compressor systems I've seen died because the motor fried. Most often the old compressor (with a good pump, mind you) is junked and replaced with new as a better investment in the long term.
Snap up the dud compressor, add your new motor ... bada-bing!
+Forrest Addy The drive causes the motor to have this high-pitched "whizzing" sound. Stan tells me, that it's the "vector" causing it. See how I referred to it within quotes? Haha - I hope to gain more understanding of industrial electronics.
+BasementShopGuy Brad, the "whizzing" sound is a high pitched sound? That may be carrier freq emitted by the motor. Iron changes shape slightly when magnetized - magneto-striction. You hardly hear it at low frequencies but 5 KHz can be annoying if your hearing is keen. You're a young giy; I bet you could track a bat by listening for its echo location.
You can adjust the carrier frequency by tweaking the parameter listed in the manual. I suggest 15 KHz if you have the option. I don't think there is any significant reliability or performance penalty in doing so. I favor Yaskawa VFD's which have a 20 KHz serring. My machining experiences are unsullied by whistles, whines. or whizzes.
Do you have a cost brake down for the complete conversion? I have a southbend heavy 10 that was 440 3 phase when I got it. I changed the wiring and heaters as instructed from online sources to run 220v with a phase converter. It runs but it seems under powered and the switches seem to buzz more then I think they should (though I'm very uneducated in the matter).
Hi Brad - Thanks for the videos. Just a couple thoughts. Typically, a VFD is sized ~30% larger than your 3-phase motor, as they are not 100% efficient. Also, 10/4 is way overkill for a 2 HP motor unless you are a long ways away. My 4 HP VFD has a current draw of less than 14 amps at 220 VAC.
wonder if this will translate to a kbac 27d and a 2x72
Brad, I'm at the very end of my 13" referbishment and I am searching for the data plates you used for the switches you used with your control box. Any chance you remember where they came from? Thanks
I don't remember, so long ago. Sorry..
Still have the 5hp motor?
Joe Sosnowski Hi Joe - Yes I do. Just sitting here collecting dust.
@@BasementShopGuy I have a 2hp single phase motor I was going to build a lathe around. Thinking I may want to use that for a mill, and use a 5hp for the lathe... how much you want for it?
@@joesosnowski7568 Email me: basementshopguy @ gmail
Great videos
+John Ambler Thanks John.
Friction tape isn't nearly as bad as rubber splicing compound. Damn stuff fuses together and you have to cut it off. Hard to beat wire nuts.
great info.
+Robert Kutz Thanks Rob.
That motor would make a sweet candidate for a direct drive 6" belt sander...
+TODD FINK Oh there's plenty of uses for that beast. I just don't have a lot of the fab tools to build a lot of the things I've pictured in my head, lol.
What is STAN'S channel Brad?
+SUPERDUCKcromobe Hey! Stan's channel is "Shadon HKW" - do a TH-cam search on that.
Nice that the wires are twisted, some VFDs are prone to making electrical interference.
wire clamp is called a romex connector
You sound like some pompous know it all.
And who's Stan, is he with wolf automation? My god man, be specific, you're a machinist!
Stan is from Bar-Z. The one who hosts the Summer Bash
You (and Stan) were very wise not to trust your drum switch. When I took the course on electric motors, at a very reputable University, under Prof. X (I do not wish to mention his name) we were introduced to the brand-new motors lab. Prof X said "these switches are the wrong rating but they'll work" and threw the switch. A foot-long flame shot out of the switch, burned a through hole (literally) in Prof X's hand, and he had to be hospitalized and was there two months. Our course was toast :) so I don't know as much about electric motors as I should. I think the moral is kind of obvious. It did make me wake up to the fact that all components in an electrical circuit have to be up to the job.Following these episodes very carefully because I too want a VFD on my lathe.
+Juan Rivero interesting story Juan. I'm glad to be able to help out with my video, but the real credit goes to Stan - he's been guiding me through all of this. I just don't have the experience with VFD's and motors, enough to know it cold. So he's kinda like the professor in this case. Only he knows his s___t :)
Yeah, but you're doing the video! Agree totally with Stan! Wish Prof X were like Stan.
While it is poor practice I think in reality you could have got away with that 5hp on the drum switch for a long time. On a lathe like this you aren't picking up under load so the amp draw is mostly a function of load and I doubt you would be taking cuts approaching a 5hp load so the switch would not be under anymore strain than the cuts that you take. I am sure you will enjoy using the VFD though.
+bcbloc02 Yeah, I'm pretty exited to be able to dial in speeds right on the fly.
Nice job, but you really should be using THHN in that conduit instead of SO wire. I think that might actually be a code thing.
You’re 100% correct. But that was years ago 😊. Thst lathe is long gone.
Friction tape isn't nearly as bad as rubber splicing compound. Damn stuff fuses together and you have to cut it off.
I believe that your Baldor motor (Standard-E) is not designed with AC drive. You must use "Super-E" in order to control properly the speed with constant torque (10:1) and to be safe than Standard-E with AC drive.
Hmm maybe. I'll look into it.
With a few exceptions, bolts have the nut tightened where with screws the screw is tightened. Screws usually come with hex nuts and bolts with square nuts.
Is that a new motor? looks like a motor from the 50's :q
VFD the only way to go , larger motor is always better for a lathe as an ac motor has little torque at low rpms it is nice not using the back gear and making belt changes- just turn the dial!
+Sparkness Agreed!
+BasementShopGuy Also a braking resistor . you dont need to buy an expensive resistor made by ac tech. all you need is a 100 ohm 100 watt power resistor for this application as this will barely get warm used on a lathe or a mill. Available on ebay for about 5-6 bucks
+Sparkness Really? That's actually pretty cool, as I want to add one. I saw some vids on YT with them in action - way cool... Thanks for the info!
the ac tech resistor is 160 w 63 ohm for 2HP so you could use a 75-100 ohm 100w in my opinion because you are not starting & stopping the motor frequently as in factory process. On my lathe I have 2hp and a vfd and a small 100 ohm power resistor ,slows down quickly.
Those are screws not bolts.
+Richard Paisley Huh?
+BasementShopGuy - Screws go into a threaded hole in a solid object; bolts are fastened with nuts. (It's a finicky distinction, but Richard is correct.)
+Peter W. Meek Pete - of course I know the difference, but when you're working (and) filming, you're sometimes concentrating on how to explain things while trying to work in a camera-"smooth" way too. Do I (and other) mis-speak? ALL the time... these are just momentum-killing type of comments.
Sorry. Didn't mean to be a wet blanket.
+Peter W. Meek Haha - You're not a wet-blanket!
out of breath or out of shape?
You sound like some pompous know it all.
don't open holes, straighten out the base plate!!!!!
You sound like some pompous know it all.
Can I ask why alot of americans so stubbornly uses "horsepower" when it comes to just about everything? Using watts when it comes to electrical stuff makes a whole alot more sense to be honest, especially when talking about stuff like amperage rating on stuff like a drum switch. Or do we actually talk about a drum switch that can take the force of two pulling horses before it physically rips apart? Just my two cents on the subject.
Good video series anyhow :)
I think it's just what we know and can easily compare power with.
Yea. I know how heavy those motors are. I wouldn’t want the job. 😬
Why can’t people who are making these videos on how to do something tell us what they paid for the parts. For example this guy said that he got a good price for the motor on eBay well I don’t know what a good price is to you but to me it might be different. Just tell us the prices for god sake‘s so we know on the onset if this is something that we can do or if it’s out of our ballpark because of the cost.
Why on earth is that important? What if by a “good price “I got it for five dollars? Or what if I thought a good price was $200? You’re on your own to find your own good deal. And you’re also on your own to go do some research and see how much a motor costs as eBay prices can fluctuate. It’s a shame this needs to be stated to people who insist on posting negative complaining comments. Maybe I completely forgot what the price was and said “good price“ in terms of keeping the flow of the video going.
@@BasementShopGuy I didn’t mean any disrespect, but when people are trying to figure out what something like this costs when they just looking into this it would be a good reference point. Especially at the beginning of a video because then the viewer can decide if they’re going to watch the whole video or not because they may/may not be able to afford it. I know socially it is rude to ask for the price of something but in these videos I believe it’s a requirement. For example if you said at the beginning “this whole set up cost me around $400“ OK then I can stay tuned and watch all your other good videos. But if you say “all in all this cost me $1200” I know I can’t afford that so I’m gonna move on.
Also you tell me to do my own research, yes that’s exactly why I’m on TH-cam watching you, my research.
When you started looking into this weren’t you curious about the price it would cost you? Again no disrespect, I appreciate your posting informative videos.
Just my 2 cents.
OVER-HEAD WORSE .
+OLD WIPPER-SNAPPER What does that even mean?