That was the most short, sweet and amazingly still very clear and detailed rundown of troubleshooting a 7.3 that Ive yet to see. And ive seen a whole lot of them. Way to go dude, this is a "every owner or individual who works on a 7.3 should be required to watch this first "video.
Covered a lot of good points, common problems (man, they must not have maintained yours at all!) I have a '96 7.3 with 263k..bought new and haven't had moßt of the problems you recount. I am an ASE cert. Diesel Bus master tech (retired x3) and have had some of those issues while maintaining a fleet of 27 busses, for 18 yrs. Still one helluva lot less problems than a B series Cummins, or God forbid, ANYTHING GMC has come out that burbs DIESEL!!
My motor is slightly different from yours, your advice helped me a lot, my Engine light is now off after I was able to locate and change out the ICP Sensor. I Prayed to the God in Heaven about this one. At International, the cost of the ICP sensor was probably almost three hundred dollars or close to two hundred dollars and was under $30 on eBay or Amazon, which made me question the quality and durability of my less expensive part, its been a few years and the part has held up.
I use your video every time I need to troubleshoot my 2000 t444e! Today your comment about checking the pre-filter (upstream from the fuel filter) led me to find a piece of something stuck in mine. Pulled it out and my bus runs without smoke in the exhaust!!! You saved my hundreds in diagnostics!
This is by far the best video working on any 7.3 from ford 250 350 450 and excursions.. the view and angle u shot it being on a bus is the very best. The 7.3 is all the way across and same exact problems but minor fixes are better then engine replacements on gas cars. U rock
Great vid! I used your vid to do preventative maintenance before my road trip from Phoenix to KY. Changed oil, ICP, CPS, IPR, Glow plug solenoid, coolant filter all good parts but I wanted no failures on the road and extra known good parts just in case. Great job thumbs up!!!!
Thanks for the video. Learned a lot. I have the same bus. Warning lights, buzzers, everything but a gong goes off. Gages show low oil pressure and overheating. Plenty of oil, water level is fine and not too hot. I love my bus. It is a '99 with only 112K miles! Unfortunately, I had a diesel mechanic who was supposed to be an expert on Powerstroke engines. After screwing me around for a couple of months, told me that it was ready to pick up. Got it home, parked it for three days. Went out and it wouldn't start. Called him... he skipped town. Again, unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined, but there is enough videos and info online that I believe I can do most anything I have to . Thanks again for the video. Poppy
You have a big advantage over us pickup owners. You can tip that engine hood forward and get to the engine easily. For pickups, everything is buried under all sorts of lines.
Great Video. Hopefully this will help with my BUS being sluggish when starting up a hill from a stop. Took it for a spin today and it wouldn't go over 10 MPH up the hill.
Thank you, from 2020. This is so helpful to me, I recently found a nice little oil puddle under my engine, so i'm here now lol, this is going to be so helpful going forward, thank you so much!
Tim Masincupp Tim my name is Ken I am having a serious problem with my 4700 I I I I have a international 2000 engine 7.3 T444E Roback flatbedIt takes off really great and as it gets 30 mph starts to slow down and lose compression or power inter-national dealer tells me I need A Nother motor but the problem just started happening out of nowhere I am in need of some serious advice!!
You definitely want to refill the HPOP reservoir. It is common to the engine oil, but don't count on the oil being replenished. There is almost no cirulation from the engine block. I opened my 2000 superduty reservoir and after 100,000 miles of regular oil/filter changes, the oil in the reservoir was like mud. It should be pumped out and refilled when you change your engine oil. Fortunately I discovered this before my injectors were ruined. Their is nothing about this in the Ford truck manual or even in a Chilton repair manual.
JB Marker uh. Your low pressure oil pump pumps oil to the reservoir where the hpop uses the oil and is flowed through the injectors and back down. It has a huge part of oil circulation....
A other no start issue is a shorted fuel heater in the fuel bowl. It blows the 30 amp fuse that also powers other fuel system components... An easy indicator is absence of a wait to start light when trying to start....
Will, One thing you should do, remove that New Gray Colored CPS Cam Position Sensor and put the original Black CPS back in the bus. The old Black CPS was made with a USA Made Magnetic Hall Sensor and is the best units ever made. If it has the small circle in the center with the exposed magnetic sensor you are in luck. The new Sensors have a cheap offset Asian made Hall Sensor that throws the timing off and causes high EGT temps, and poor performance eating fuel. The CPS goes in with a single 10MM Bolt and you torque it at 18 ft. lbs. The CPS is one of the most important parts of your 7.3L engine, the old black CPS will make the engine run on all 8 cylinders.n The new gray CPS is a nightmare, besides the cheap Hall Sensor, it's offset and not centered. So when the flywheel spins it counts the largest tooth and the smallest tooth on the flywheel. A bad CPS will give the ECM a wrong count and screw-up the entire delivery system, Both the new gray Ford and the International Dark Blue CPS have the same faulty offset hall sensor and are wasting tens of thousands of gallons of fuel each day. I have an old Black CPS in my truck and I get 20-21 MPG on HWY and 17 City with a heavy foot. Here is a diagram to show you how the 7.3L PSD Works starting at the top left with the CPS (CAMP) Sensor. tinyurl.com/7-3L-Wiring-Diagram .
All 7.3's to my knowledge have two batteries. My 95 has two batteries in the engine compartment but the 2003 has one hidden down on the rail frame/rail. There's a decal in the engine compartment I found after I did a little cleaning
I have the same bus motor- I had the fuel pump go bad twice, and the serpentine belt tensioner broke (easy fix) and the glow plugs were bad...but that only matters in cold weather. With theses big things it's better to fix in the driveway than on the highway...
I may be soon to set foot in the Diesel world with a T444E in a bus/camper conversion.. This was great information! Much appreciated! If it happens I will be buying one of each of those parts and the tools you described, that I don't already have.
Thank you so much for making this video does not a lot of videos concerning this motor in absolutely nailed everything from a newbie at like me new to these type of Motors to know what you go and check for first without dealing with slime balls and greedy people wanting money for things they don't even now
I was experiencing the same issues. But....my bus would crank and crank and wouldn't start. I removed the rear heater, and in that process, cut the supply lines to shorten and hide them. Apparently I lost more coolant than I thought and i had NO clue that there is a low coolant sensor that prevents the motor from starting. I replaced the cam sensor and still had no luck. Once I filled the coolant to the "full" level on the container, the damn thing fired right up. I wasn't throwing any codes either. I talked to an old-timer that is a retired bus mechanic. He told me to add coolant. It's between "add" and "full" and that beast lives again. Much cheaper than replacing every sensor...
wgaca JR thanks for your story. Yes if I were to remake the video i would have included: 'make sure all fluid levels are good including coolant, transmission, oil, steering, brake, rear diff, etc.' but i guess i assumed most people would start there. Also if you do follow my advice in the video you would not replace every sensor you would start by reading your error codes which would indicate you should check coolant (in your case). Congratulations on getting it running again though that's always a satisfying feeling!
mororhead, true that the glowplugs will ignite starting fluid and blow up your engine, possibly... but in warm weather the 7.3 will stat and run with a bad relay, although it takes a minute for sure. I had thick oil in the 7.3 bus I bought, and the guy sold it to me cheap because it had a hard time starting. I changed my oil to a synthetic 5-40 and not it starts almost immediately. just my experience...
the newer style pistons don't like either and if you have to use either most either now is such low % of either just give it a sniff after you have pulled the relay or fuse for the glowplugs so they aren't hot but unless its below 50 degree's a 7.3 will fire up with out them it won't like it and may take a min to light all the holes but it will light but on these newer diesels either has been known to crack pistons in most cases because people using too much but still not worth it plus block heat is another option
I guess being so interested in that Bus Motor, I didn't really focus on your Nose, uh, I just wanted to know the common problems with The Engine. Good Video, very informative.
I used to have a 95 7.3, well still do an selling it now, bought a 7.3 idi that’s better for running more bio fuels. These 7.3s are a true pain in the ass to fix sometimes, but being that the valve covers are no buried between the truck where the passenger side one only comes off at a certain angle. For the 3/4ton trucks ford should’ve stuck w the 7.3 idi. Basically if you can afford it, change the factory valve cover gaskets, IPR, ICP, & CPS/ with a spare in the glovebox. The IPR moves in & out about a couple hundred times a decent to send the right amount of oil to the injectors. This is a part you want to get that’s genuine motorcraft, other sensors like the ICP just get after market, get motorcraft for the CPS as well. If it’s taken care of that is about the only real issues these things have. Just get ready to pull out the wallet for 1K in injectors, & $700 oil pump, & 1-$200 computer tho. I just found a bus w that engine in it that pas parked in a field, I’m 17 so hopefully I can get it pretty cheap.🤞
One very important addition to this "things to look for video" that was well made I'd like to say. Also the UVC injector and glow plug harnesses. Aka under the valve cover.
Is there a way of contacting you with a quick question about the 444e? Mine is dying when it's warmed up and put into gear. Replaced or serviced: ICP, IPR, CPS, H-pop, fuel pump. Probably stuff I'm forgetting. I'm getting code 42 from the scanguageD I bought that you suggested. Cleaned all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel filter, and inspected fuel tank, fuel pressure regulator, screen, bowl, and added a supplemental fuel pressure at the tank. It starts right up, just won't run under load once it warms up. Great Vid!
Where the oil filter located on this truck. I looked all over engine and thought it was the water oversteer at first until I wiped it down and saw it said coolant filter on it. My 2001 which is identical to this has been nothing but a nightmare and my tow costs have been killing me. Had to change the fuel pump 3 times before I got one that finally worked and haven’t had issues with it since.
Nice video gave you a thumbs up. A little all over the place but I learned some things, thanks for doing it. I was so in tune with the video I didn't even notice the sniffling. LOL, if you watch my vids I sniff a lot maybe that's why I didn't notice it. Mine is cutting out occasionally, tipically in cooler weather, in the 70's, then it goes away in the summer mid to high 90's. Changed the CPS no change. So I figure i'll try the Throttle assymbly and the ambient temperature sensor. Any ideas? Ps also changed the oil, auto tranny fluid and filter. Ran injector cleaner to, no effect. Pulls hard under load just when cruising does it cut out. Seems to do it between 1700 - 2200 RPM. Thanks Best Wishes/Blessings Keith.
I have 2000 international 4700 the oil is being pulled from the engine into the fuel tank. Have not been able to find the problem any information will helpful thanks
I HAVE A 2000 INTERNATIONAL 4600 DT466E, Truck wouldn't start due to fuel, Got the truck started and stay running but I'm not getting full power when I try to drive it, Do have any idea what could be wrong?
Can you please show how and where the computer hook up is !!! I would be so thankful !!! Great video by the way !! Just got my bus and I'm wanting to get all info I can get and learn !!!
So i have a 96 int 3800 bus with t444e and i cannot find the separator. have you ever seen them in strange places? ive traced down the framerail and i dont see it anywhere where i see fuel lines. i have a service panel inside the bus, could it be under there?
also to check icp you can start the engine with it running disconnect the connector. the engine will give a quick hesatation and idle normal. but besure to disconnect the battery befor doing any work under the hood
Just bought a 2000 Bluebird School bus... picked it up in Mississippi yesterday and drove it 500 miles. Everything seemed to be going well till about 300 miles into the trip. Stopped at a rest stop and when started the bus up again got oil/water warning lights. Oil check was good water was almost empty but no obvious leaks on the ground. Let it cool and put 4 gals of water in and drove it the rest of the way. Got home and checked the water... very low level. No water in the oil but noticed a leak on top of the motor towards the back ... explains why the floor area around the front of the cab was slippery, kind of oily. Any ideas where to start?
Cool vid, much appreciated. I have a 96 powerstroke and I'm having some issues of her dying here and there but starting right back up. The last time it was hard to restart so I guess I need to start figuring this out before I get stranded. Any suggestions where to start considering these syptoms?
I have the same bus. Pretty bad oil leak can't really see where it's coming from. Near the filter on the driver side front of the motor. It's shooting out like a pulse. Any ideas before I take this thing apart.
Will Stone also there's a metal plate inside the bus in the middle of the floor between the door and the driver's seat that you can remove to get additional access to the engine bay - just in case you didn't know
What could be the causes of mixture of water and diesel,cause I have one of the engine that I haven't figured out what causes the mixture. If you have any idea let me know.
On these things, it’s way easier to just change all the sensors/IPR, ICP, CPS, Mechaical fuel pump delete, valve cover harness update to the single plug instead of the factory defective dual plug design.
I am looking at buying a blue bird international with same type engine. I would like keep in contact with you! You helped me understand some good troubleshooting !
Dude I need your help I bought a school bus and someone ripped all the wiring out of it and now it wont start. Can I replace the computer so the bus will start? So many safety stops in a bus. I would pay for your advise. Its a 2001 International 444e engine
I'm very sorry for the delayed reply - what an awful situation. Was this a thief, or the previous owner or something? Really depends what you mean by 'all the wiring' :/ You're gonna be best off visiting an International dealer or finding a local diesel shop. You can call and see who your local school district uses. If they have their own shop/mechanic, try to get put in touch 'just to ask a quick question'. To replace the computer you're gonna need some specifics that the dealer will be able to look up for you, or you might be able to find based on the VIN. But, yeah I'd seek IRL help asap if you haven't already - a bit difficult to help with that particular situation via interwebs
Question, can you use an OBD2 reader to read the codes? I know you would need an adapter for the J1939 (or whatever plug it is), but I don't know if it would read international codes, as most of the scanners I see don't tell you truck models like International, Freightliner, etc. Does it just do a half job? Or will it read all the codes correctly? Thanks for this video, it seems like it's very helpful. I basically JUST got my 1st diesel ever, so I'm still learning all of this stuff, but it sounds like this is a great video. I even saved it to my computer just in case I couldn't find it on TH-cam. In fact, thats how im here now, I couldnt remember the exact title, but I had saved the video and thus was able to get the exact title and get here, lol.
does your oil pressure gauge "hunt" while on the road? I just picked up a 2000 Bluebird with a T444E... drove it 1050 miles home.. runs beautiful.. my fan clutch is bad so i ran about 210 temperature on the hot days but thats an easy fix.. it has the typical intermittent tap-tap at idle sometimes.. (LL #8 injector needed maybe...).... the one thing i notice us drivng down the road on the highway.. my oil pressure gauge hunts from say 48 down to 40 then back up again... repeats about every 10 seconds... just wondered if yours does the same thing.. what does your dash oil pressure gauge read after your engine hot and you are on the highway? I dont have a normal OBD-II port for a scanner on mine.. I have a scangauge 2 that i use on my cars but what did you use for a pinout to the connector to pull the codes? my bus has a round connector instead of the normal style, otherwise mine looks identical under the hood.. its a 190HP variant of the T444E, in a little 6 window, the bus has better pickup than my 7 row DT-360 bus has.
should me ntion the scangauge you use is a VR model... i ended up using the international software servicemaxx and running a J1708 adapter... one thing to note is that the fuel Pressure regulator nut on the older ones only ran at 47 PSI pressure .. its actually the spring in the regulator... that was replaced due to a TSB for late 99s.. (I noticed yours has the notched FPR nut which means it was updated to the 72 PSI).. others watching its a worthwhile upgrade.. quieted my engine right down form alot of the cackle.. my oil pressure still hunts, however is in range according to the books so I let it do its thing... the EBPV is another thing that will cost stalling or sometimes no-starts... many of the cold-weather busses had this on it as a war up device... it causes issues by sticking sometimes and blocking up the exhaust...
I got a 1984 s 1800 series and I just bought a 1998 diesel pusher will this engine fit into my Diesel Pusher? My Diesel Pusher has a t444 e? but I'm unsure of what my other bus has in it
Will, mind sharing the exact model of your diagnostic/code reader? I'm about to get a bus with the same engine and want the same reader you have. Thanks for the incredibly helpful video!
Andrew Motter glad it was helpful - sure, it's the 'Scangauge D' the d stands for diesel model. I would read you the numbers off the back but I permanently attached it to inside my dash because most of the oem gauges don't work. Pretty sure they just make an odbII (regular) and a combo Diesel (j1939 & j1708) version. Ours uses the j1708 pinout.
2000 4700 t444e here, jump in and start it first thing, the idle starts to climb gradually and stays at high idle until I tap the accelerator pedal. It calms down after that. Any ideas?
I’ve been through all that, rebuilt the HPOP and replaced the IPR and several other things and checked everything else you mentioned, and more, and my truck still refuses to start. Any ideas? It’s really frustrating. The last time it ran was July and it did great on a trip, but a few days after the trip, and ever since then, it refuses to start.
Next weeks video will cover the under valve cover harness, IDM, and HPOP....(which is what you unscrewed the IPR out of)... a weak HPOP can throw ICP codes and light up your CEL but usually only under a heavy load or going up a hill, also can cause hard starts..... lol
@@ttamn92 I've got a swamps high voltage high frequency idm and have been pretty happy with it. Haven't had a bad injector yet but religiously run archoil oil additive and fuel additive for anti stiction.
Great information here! Will I am looking for a diesel p/u 1996 or earlier 12v Cummins or a 7.3 Power Stroke. In your opinion which is the most trouble free / durable / ease in working on in stock configuration/? Thanks
they made 12v up to 98. 24v are not bad motors if you put a lift pump before it destroys your injector pump. all diesels are expensive to maintain you can count on close to $100 every servicing. if you use quality oil and filters. they are all pretty much easy to work on if you buy a high mileage truck you can expect to replace all the o rings/ gaskets especiially if it has a little age on it. just my .02
Go with a 7.3 Ford or a 12v cummings. Durable and easy to work with. Of course maintanance is key on these engines. Expect to shell out $100 or a little bit more on each servicing. Lucas fuel additive goes a long way too, put in regularly. I have had my 7.3 for about 4 yrs now, and haven't had an issue with it. Always service it on time, replace all filters, and take it easy on her, she will last. 300k on the clock, and she takes me anywhere, anytime. No smoke or rattling noises.
hayden ingram and add fuel additives with lubrication properties because of the low sulphur diesel it doesn't provided enough luberication for the lift and injector pumps on the Cummins or any diesel as far as that goes thats the reason 2003 dodge Cummins injector pumps had a high failure rate because of lack of lubrication to the pumps
they had high failure rates due to low fuel pressure. because it has electric lift pump on the side of engine and after so much vibration they fail then the ip fails.
hayden ingram they put the electric fuel pump in the tank also and they still had issues with them even with the mechanical lift pump anyways got to love government take something simple and make it complicated
I've been looking for a 72 passenger bus myself. I'm partial to the DT466, but haven't totally ruled out the T444E. as an option - the high production numbers should make parts and boneyard scavenge readily available, but tell me, is it enough engine for comfortable highway cruising? What's the "top" speed of your bus (without beating it to death)?
We weigh 22,000 pounds and have additional drag from our roof deck and solar panels and can cruise at 61mph no problem. Mountain highways were troublesome until we replaced the water pump and cleaned the radiator in a commercial degreaser last month
what did you use for a water pump? I do have the issue in hot weather of mine running a bit warm... I had a bad fan clutch mine is not the nice horton like yours.. its an old-style viscous.. but now that works.. however it still likes to run about 212 or so on hot days at 65 on the freeway with my Air-conditioner on and heater valves closed... I really despise the OH split radiator.. both of my busses have the rad design.. when you say you cleaned your rad in degreaser.. the inside of it or just the outside fins?
Thanks for the Video. I have a 7.3 with a Crank no start. Found the fuel bowl empty. I checked the Volts on the fuel pump and theirs 12v. Do you have any suggestions on what it could be ?
Could be a clog in the fuel line, a couple different sensors, or the fuel pump... just because it has power doesn't mean it's working. I would start by looking at the error code(s)
Will Stone hi. Im back. Just to let you know. I Replaced the IPR, ICP and the fuel pump. My truck did turned On. But after 5 minutes it turned off. My question is did that happened to the 7.3 engine after replacing all the sensors ?
That was the most short, sweet and amazingly still very clear and detailed rundown of troubleshooting a 7.3 that Ive yet to see. And ive seen a whole lot of them. Way to go dude, this is a "every owner or individual who works on a 7.3 should be required to watch this first "video.
Covered a lot of good points, common problems (man, they must not have maintained yours at all!) I have a '96 7.3 with 263k..bought new and haven't had moßt of the problems you recount. I am an ASE cert. Diesel Bus master tech (retired x3) and have had some of those issues while maintaining a fleet of 27 busses, for 18 yrs. Still one helluva lot less problems than a B series Cummins, or God forbid, ANYTHING GMC has come out that burbs DIESEL!!
So what is the very most dependable diesel buses out there?
I seriously just want to thank you... im self employed and doing a lot of self taught. this video helped me out big time... thanks again bud cheers
My motor is slightly different from yours, your advice helped me a lot, my Engine light is now off after I was able to locate and change out the ICP Sensor. I Prayed to the God in Heaven about
this one. At International, the cost of the ICP sensor was probably almost three hundred dollars or close to two hundred dollars and was under $30 on eBay or Amazon, which made me question the quality and durability of my less expensive part, its been a few years and the part has held up.
I use your video every time I need to troubleshoot my 2000 t444e! Today your comment about checking the pre-filter (upstream from the fuel filter) led me to find a piece of something stuck in mine. Pulled it out and my bus runs without smoke in the exhaust!!! You saved my hundreds in diagnostics!
This is by far the best video working on any 7.3 from ford 250 350 450 and excursions.. the view and angle u shot it being on a bus is the very best. The 7.3 is all the way across and same exact problems but minor fixes are better then engine replacements on gas cars. U rock
thedavidibarra papi 7.3 and 5.9 are kings among the diesels and if only Ford F Series had as much room to work with as that bus
The e350s are a bugger because everything is so damn tight!
thats a really handy tool and work bench. I'm takin all my tools out to the curb
Awesome video! Thanks for putting this together and posting it online!
This is the most time effective, To the point(s) video I've seen in a long while. Good show!!
thanks a ton man. been trying to figure out where that stupid glow plug relay for days... by far most informative video online. thanks again!
Great vid! I used your vid to do preventative maintenance before my road trip from
Phoenix to KY. Changed oil, ICP, CPS, IPR, Glow plug solenoid, coolant filter all good parts but I wanted no failures on the road and extra known good parts just in case. Great job thumbs up!!!!
Sounds like a AAA bus sale 😉
Thanks for the video. Learned a lot. I have the same bus. Warning lights, buzzers, everything but a gong goes off. Gages show low oil pressure and overheating. Plenty of oil, water level is fine and not too hot. I love my bus. It is a '99 with only 112K miles! Unfortunately, I had a diesel mechanic who was supposed to be an expert on Powerstroke engines. After screwing me around for a couple of months, told me that it was ready to pick up. Got it home, parked it for three days. Went out and it wouldn't start. Called him... he skipped town. Again, unfortunately, I am not mechanically inclined, but there is enough videos and info online that I believe I can do most anything I have to .
Thanks again for the video.
Poppy
You have a big advantage over us pickup owners. You can tip that engine hood forward and get to the engine easily. For pickups, everything is buried under all sorts of lines.
You should try working on that 7.3 in an Econoline van!
Try working on the engine in a shuttle bus!
Wow you did great. I am about to get one of this buses. Learned a lot and very helpful. Thanks for the vid and all info
Thank you Will, great info an a bunch of parts and topics for this engine!
Great video! Lots of great information. Thanks! OK, breathe...
Great Video. Hopefully this will help with my BUS being sluggish when starting up a hill from a stop. Took it for a spin today and it wouldn't go over 10 MPH up the hill.
Check fuel filter first, then lift pump
Thank you, from 2020. This is so helpful to me, I recently found a nice little oil puddle under my engine, so i'm here now lol, this is going to be so helpful going forward, thank you so much!
BRAVO!!!! Very well done and no time wasted on "I'm so cool". smart mechanics are few.
Tim Masincupp
Tim my name is Ken I am having a serious problem with my 4700 I I I I have a international 2000 engine 7.3 T444E Roback flatbedIt takes off really great and as it gets 30 mph starts to slow down and lose compression or power inter-national dealer tells me I need A Nother motor but the problem just started happening out of nowhere
I am in need of some serious advice!!
If anyone else have had this problem with is 7.3 international motor losing power after take off please reply
@@kenwilliams5281 what ever happened with your problem Ken?
Maybe it’s the transmission
This was an incredibly informative video man. Like mandatory reading type stuff. Bravo!
You definitely want to refill the HPOP reservoir. It is common to the engine oil, but don't count on the oil being replenished. There is almost no cirulation from the engine block. I opened my 2000 superduty reservoir and after 100,000 miles of regular oil/filter changes, the oil in the reservoir was like mud. It should be pumped out and refilled when you change your engine oil. Fortunately I discovered this before my injectors were ruined. Their is nothing about this in the Ford truck manual or even in a Chilton repair manual.
Even if you don’t believe it, do it as it’s cheap insurance.
JB Marker uh. Your low pressure oil pump pumps oil to the reservoir where the hpop uses the oil and is flowed through the injectors and back down. It has a huge part of oil circulation....
LOL, I loved the part where you said it works better if you use the same year vehicle LOL.
A other no start issue is a shorted fuel heater in the fuel bowl. It blows the 30 amp fuse that also powers other fuel system components...
An easy indicator is absence of a wait to start light when trying to start....
Where is this located
Will,
One thing you should do, remove that New Gray Colored CPS Cam Position Sensor and put the original Black CPS back in the bus. The old Black CPS was made with a USA Made Magnetic Hall Sensor and is the best units ever made. If it has the small circle in the center with the exposed magnetic sensor you are in luck. The new Sensors have a cheap offset Asian made Hall Sensor that throws the timing off and causes high EGT temps, and poor performance eating fuel. The CPS goes in with a single 10MM Bolt and you torque it at 18 ft. lbs. The CPS is one of the most important parts of your 7.3L engine, the old black CPS will make the engine run on all 8 cylinders.n The new gray CPS is a nightmare, besides the cheap Hall Sensor, it's offset and not centered. So when the flywheel spins it counts the largest tooth and the smallest tooth on the flywheel. A bad CPS will give the ECM a wrong count and screw-up the entire delivery system, Both the new gray Ford and the International Dark Blue CPS have the same faulty offset hall sensor and are wasting tens of thousands of gallons of fuel each day. I have an old Black CPS in my truck and I get 20-21 MPG on HWY and 17 City with a heavy foot. Here is a diagram to show you how the 7.3L PSD Works starting at the top left with the CPS (CAMP) Sensor.
tinyurl.com/7-3L-Wiring-Diagram .
Just got the exact same bus at a auction... and I see you have 2 batteries mine only had one! Great video
All 7.3's to my knowledge have two batteries. My 95 has two batteries in the engine compartment but the 2003 has one hidden down on the rail frame/rail. There's a decal in the engine compartment I found after I did a little cleaning
I have the same bus motor- I had the fuel pump go bad twice, and the serpentine belt tensioner broke (easy fix) and the glow plugs were bad...but that only matters in cold weather. With theses big things it's better to fix in the driveway than on the highway...
Best video for the 7.3
I may be soon to set foot in the Diesel world with a T444E in a bus/camper conversion.. This was great information! Much appreciated! If it happens I will be buying one of each of those parts and the tools you described, that I don't already have.
Thank you so much for making this video does not a lot of videos concerning this motor in absolutely nailed everything from a newbie at like me new to these type of Motors to know what you go and check for first without dealing with slime balls and greedy people wanting money for things they don't even now
Thanks will stone did the icp two weeks ago I have the ipr and cam shaft in hand didnt know about the frp sensor but will look into it two thumbs up.
Do you do caffeine introveniously
Don't forget the wiring issues and the IDM failures?
I was experiencing the same issues. But....my bus would crank and crank and wouldn't start. I removed the rear heater, and in that process, cut the supply lines to shorten and hide them. Apparently I lost more coolant than I thought and i had NO clue that there is a low coolant sensor that prevents the motor from starting. I replaced the cam sensor and still had no luck. Once I filled the coolant to the "full" level on the container, the damn thing fired right up. I wasn't throwing any codes either. I talked to an old-timer that is a retired bus mechanic. He told me to add coolant. It's between "add" and "full" and that beast lives again. Much cheaper than replacing every sensor...
wgaca JR thanks for your story. Yes if I were to remake the video i would have included: 'make sure all fluid levels are good including coolant, transmission, oil, steering, brake, rear diff, etc.' but i guess i assumed most people would start there. Also if you do follow my advice in the video you would not replace every sensor you would start by reading your error codes which would indicate you should check coolant (in your case). Congratulations on getting it running again though that's always a satisfying feeling!
Never pre fill fuel filters and never wear a ring on your hand while you work on anything.
mororhead, true that the glowplugs will ignite starting fluid and blow up your engine, possibly... but in warm weather the 7.3 will stat and run with a bad relay, although it takes a minute for sure. I had thick oil in the 7.3 bus I bought, and the guy sold it to me cheap because it had a hard time starting. I changed my oil to a synthetic 5-40 and not it starts almost immediately. just my experience...
the newer style pistons don't like either and if you have to use either most either now is such low % of either just give it a sniff after you have pulled the relay or fuse for the glowplugs so they aren't hot but unless its below 50 degree's a 7.3 will fire up with out them it won't like it and may take a min to light all the holes but it will light but on these newer diesels either has been known to crack pistons in most cases because people using too much but still not worth it plus block heat is another option
I guess being so interested in that Bus Motor, I didn't really focus on your Nose, uh, I just wanted to know the common problems with The Engine. Good Video, very informative.
I used to have a 95 7.3, well still do an selling it now, bought a 7.3 idi that’s better for running more bio fuels.
These 7.3s are a true pain in the ass to fix sometimes, but being that the valve covers are no buried between the truck where the passenger side one only comes off at a certain angle. For the 3/4ton trucks ford should’ve stuck w the 7.3 idi.
Basically if you can afford it, change the factory valve cover gaskets, IPR, ICP, & CPS/ with a spare in the glovebox.
The IPR moves in & out about a couple hundred times a decent to send the right amount of oil to the injectors.
This is a part you want to get that’s genuine motorcraft, other sensors like the ICP just get after market, get motorcraft for the CPS as well.
If it’s taken care of that is about the only real issues these things have.
Just get ready to pull out the wallet for 1K in injectors, & $700 oil pump, & 1-$200 computer tho.
I just found a bus w that engine in it that pas parked in a field, I’m 17 so hopefully I can get it pretty cheap.🤞
Good vid, thanks for the upload.
Your the best!!!
Thanks for making this Video.
One very important addition to this "things to look for video" that was well made I'd like to say. Also the UVC injector and glow plug harnesses. Aka under the valve cover.
Thank you bro lots of help.
Is there a way of contacting you with a quick question about the 444e? Mine is dying when it's warmed up and put into gear. Replaced or serviced: ICP, IPR, CPS, H-pop, fuel pump. Probably stuff I'm forgetting.
I'm getting code 42 from the scanguageD I bought that you suggested. Cleaned all the fuel lines, replaced the fuel filter, and inspected fuel tank, fuel pressure regulator, screen, bowl, and added a supplemental fuel pressure at the tank. It starts right up, just won't run under load once it warms up. Great Vid!
sorry I missed this, you get sorted?
@@WillStone I don't have wait to start light or crank
Where the oil filter located on this truck. I looked all over engine and thought it was the water oversteer at first until I wiped it down and saw it said coolant filter on it. My 2001 which is identical to this has been nothing but a nightmare and my tow costs have been killing me. Had to change the fuel pump 3 times before I got one that finally worked and haven’t had issues with it since.
Brilliant and VERY much needed. But please slow down the speeding camera - I nearly fell off my chair lol
Nice video gave you a thumbs up. A little all over the place but I learned some things, thanks for doing it. I was so in tune with the video I didn't even notice the sniffling. LOL, if you watch my vids I sniff a lot maybe that's why I didn't notice it. Mine is cutting out occasionally, tipically in cooler weather, in the 70's, then it goes away in the summer mid to high 90's. Changed the CPS no change. So I figure i'll try the Throttle assymbly and the ambient temperature sensor. Any ideas? Ps also changed the oil, auto tranny fluid and filter. Ran injector cleaner to, no effect. Pulls hard under load just when cruising does it cut out. Seems to do it between 1700 - 2200 RPM. Thanks Best Wishes/Blessings Keith.
I have 2000 international 4700 the oil is being pulled from the engine into the fuel tank. Have not been able to find the problem any information will helpful thanks
Very nice video, good job.
Great video
Very good video. Thanks!
Thank you for the video
My 7.3 does not want to accelerate on 4th 5th and 6th gear and it won't go past 45 mph
I HAVE A 2000 INTERNATIONAL 4600 DT466E, Truck wouldn't start due to fuel, Got the truck started and stay running but I'm not getting full power when I try to drive it, Do have any idea what could be wrong?
Great video! Big Thank you
Can you please show how and where the computer hook up is !!! I would be so thankful !!! Great video by the way !! Just got my bus and I'm wanting to get all info I can get and learn !!!
So i have a 96 int 3800 bus with t444e and i cannot find the separator. have you ever seen them in strange places? ive traced down the framerail and i dont see it anywhere where i see fuel lines. i have a service panel inside the bus, could it be under there?
also to check icp you can start the engine with it running disconnect the connector. the engine will give a quick hesatation and idle normal. but besure to disconnect the battery befor doing any work under the hood
Nice vídeo, simple and practic
Subscriber 996! ✊
Holy crap I'm gonna have to start posting to yt again! Cheers man
I hope everyone's still firing up and rolling!
I’m having a no start issue after changing icp and IPR truck was fine before any suggestions? It sound like it’s not getting fuel .
Great video. Thanks.
How do you translate scangauge codes? I'm having a really hard time finding information
Just bought a 2000 Bluebird School bus... picked it up in Mississippi yesterday and drove it 500 miles. Everything seemed to be going well till about 300 miles into the trip. Stopped at a rest stop and when started the bus up again got oil/water warning lights. Oil check was good water was almost empty but no obvious leaks on the ground. Let it cool and put 4 gals of water in and drove it the rest of the way. Got home and checked the water... very low level. No water in the oil but noticed a leak on top of the motor towards the back ... explains why the floor area around the front of the cab was slippery, kind of oily. Any ideas where to start?
Mike & Cindy Jones, Realtors heater core.
Great video. Thnk you.
Grate information
thanks for sharing the video have a question where do you pick up that solenoid for $18 at?
nice video thanks for the info
Cool vid, much appreciated. I have a 96 powerstroke and I'm having some issues of her dying here and there but starting right back up. The last time it was hard to restart so I guess I need to start figuring this out before I get stranded. Any suggestions where to start considering these syptoms?
I have the same bus.
Pretty bad oil leak can't really see where it's coming from.
Near the filter on the driver side front of the motor.
It's shooting out like a pulse.
Any ideas before I take this thing apart.
what error code do you get? check the cps and the icp sensors. bad icp often does this (i've read).
Will Stone also there's a metal plate inside the bus in the middle of the floor between the door and the driver's seat that you can remove to get additional access to the engine bay - just in case you didn't know
What could be the causes of mixture of water and diesel,cause I have one of the engine that I haven't figured out what causes the mixture. If you have any idea let me know.
Sir.what is the firing order that bus and how inch.or mm valve clearance?
I have the same motor but oil keeps coming thru my turbo exhaust even after I changed turbos… any ideas
On these things, it’s way easier to just change all the sensors/IPR, ICP, CPS, Mechaical fuel pump delete, valve cover harness update to the single plug instead of the factory defective dual plug design.
What style air filter in there? Is it a big round hole or does it have like a neck on it with smaller hole
I am looking at buying a blue bird international with same type engine. I would like keep in contact with you! You helped me understand some good troubleshooting !
Thank you, good info
Dude I need your help I bought a school bus and someone ripped all the wiring out of it and now it wont start. Can I replace the computer so the bus will start? So many safety stops in a bus. I would pay for your advise. Its a 2001 International 444e engine
I'm very sorry for the delayed reply - what an awful situation. Was this a thief, or the previous owner or something? Really depends what you mean by 'all the wiring' :/
You're gonna be best off visiting an International dealer or finding a local diesel shop. You can call and see who your local school district uses. If they have their own shop/mechanic, try to get put in touch 'just to ask a quick question'. To replace the computer you're gonna need some specifics that the dealer will be able to look up for you, or you might be able to find based on the VIN. But, yeah I'd seek IRL help asap if you haven't already - a bit difficult to help with that particular situation via interwebs
Question, can you use an OBD2 reader to read the codes? I know you would need an adapter for the J1939 (or whatever plug it is), but I don't know if it would read international codes, as most of the scanners I see don't tell you truck models like International, Freightliner, etc. Does it just do a half job? Or will it read all the codes correctly?
Thanks for this video, it seems like it's very helpful. I basically JUST got my 1st diesel ever, so I'm still learning all of this stuff, but it sounds like this is a great video. I even saved it to my computer just in case I couldn't find it on TH-cam. In fact, thats how im here now, I couldnt remember the exact title, but I had saved the video and thus was able to get the exact title and get here, lol.
Afaik there isn't an adapter unfortunately
@@WillStone
There is adapters listed on Amazon. They wouldn't sell them if they didn't work, right? Or is that just a naive assumption?
@@alericjohansen6775 yeah afaik it won't work but please let me know if you find out otherwise
what brand or model is that code reader i need to buy one
Nice truck
Thanks man!
Good video
does your oil pressure gauge "hunt" while on the road? I just picked up a 2000 Bluebird with a T444E... drove it 1050 miles home.. runs beautiful.. my fan clutch is bad so i ran about 210 temperature on the hot days but thats an easy fix.. it has the typical intermittent tap-tap at idle sometimes.. (LL #8 injector needed maybe...).... the one thing i notice us drivng down the road on the highway.. my oil pressure gauge hunts from say 48 down to 40 then back up again... repeats about every 10 seconds... just wondered if yours does the same thing.. what does your dash oil pressure gauge read after your engine hot and you are on the highway? I dont have a normal OBD-II port for a scanner on mine.. I have a scangauge 2 that i use on my cars but what did you use for a pinout to the connector to pull the codes? my bus has a round connector instead of the normal style, otherwise mine looks identical under the hood.. its a 190HP variant of the T444E, in a little 6 window, the bus has better pickup than my 7 row DT-360 bus has.
should me ntion the scangauge you use is a VR model... i ended up using the international software servicemaxx and running a J1708 adapter... one thing to note is that the fuel Pressure regulator nut on the older ones only ran at 47 PSI pressure .. its actually the spring in the regulator... that was replaced due to a TSB for late 99s.. (I noticed yours has the notched FPR nut which means it was updated to the 72 PSI).. others watching its a worthwhile upgrade.. quieted my engine right down form alot of the cackle.. my oil pressure still hunts, however is in range according to the books so I let it do its thing... the EBPV is another thing that will cost stalling or sometimes no-starts... many of the cold-weather busses had this on it as a war up device... it causes issues by sticking sometimes and blocking up the exhaust...
Nice. Thanks
Have to have a pocket full of money to keep a DIESEL running no matter what flavor.
I got a 1984 s 1800 series and I just bought a 1998 diesel pusher will this engine fit into my Diesel Pusher? My Diesel Pusher has a t444 e? but I'm unsure of what my other bus has in it
Will, mind sharing the exact model of your diagnostic/code reader? I'm about to get a bus with the same engine and want the same reader you have. Thanks for the incredibly helpful video!
Andrew Motter glad it was helpful - sure, it's the 'Scangauge D' the d stands for diesel model. I would read you the numbers off the back but I permanently attached it to inside my dash because most of the oem gauges don't work. Pretty sure they just make an odbII (regular) and a combo Diesel (j1939 & j1708) version. Ours uses the j1708 pinout.
2000 4700 t444e here, jump in and start it first thing, the idle starts to climb gradually and stays at high idle until I tap the accelerator pedal. It calms down after that. Any ideas?
Normal behavior to get the engine up to ideal temp. Let it happen, don't tap the accelerator
@@WillStone Ok, I appreciate the reply.
What’s the oil pipe/tube that runs from the front of the engine to the oil filter head? Mine is leaking like crazy. Is it an involved repair?
I’ve been through all that, rebuilt the HPOP and replaced the IPR and several other things and checked everything else you mentioned, and more, and my truck still refuses to start. Any ideas? It’s really frustrating. The last time it ran was July and it did great on a trip, but a few days after the trip, and ever since then, it refuses to start.
What error codes do you have?
Thanks
Can you make a list of the parts plz
Just there name so I know what to buy
Next weeks video will cover the under valve cover harness, IDM, and HPOP....(which is what you unscrewed the IPR out of)... a weak HPOP can throw ICP codes and light up your CEL but usually only under a heavy load or going up a hill, also can cause hard starts..... lol
Whiskey Tango can you please write out what IDM and HPOP are?
Thanks
@@rogue1busintergalactic83 injector driver module and high pressure oil pump
I've replaced a lot of IDM's valve cover harnesses and injectors only a few HPOP but I hear about them failing alot also
@@ttamn92 I've got a swamps high voltage high frequency idm and have been pretty happy with it. Haven't had a bad injector yet but religiously run archoil oil additive and fuel additive for anti stiction.
thank u for the video..helpful...I had a mechanic swap out my motor because of bad headgasket...now it cranks does not start any help would be great
What led you to believe the head gasket was bad?
Great information here! Will I am looking for a diesel p/u 1996 or earlier 12v Cummins or a 7.3 Power Stroke. In your opinion which is the most trouble free / durable / ease in working on in stock configuration/? Thanks
they made 12v up to 98. 24v are not bad motors if you put a lift pump before it destroys your injector pump. all diesels are expensive to maintain you can count on close to $100 every servicing. if you use quality oil and filters. they are all pretty much easy to work on if you buy a high mileage truck you can expect to replace all the o rings/ gaskets especiially if it has a little age on it. just my .02
Go with a 7.3 Ford or a 12v cummings. Durable and easy to work with. Of course maintanance is key on these engines. Expect to shell out $100 or a little bit more on each servicing. Lucas fuel additive goes a long way too, put in regularly. I have had my 7.3 for about 4 yrs now, and haven't had an issue with it. Always service it on time, replace all filters, and take it easy on her, she will last. 300k on the clock, and she takes me anywhere, anytime. No smoke or rattling noises.
hayden ingram and add fuel additives with lubrication properties because of the low sulphur diesel it doesn't provided enough luberication for the lift and injector pumps on the Cummins or any diesel as far as that goes thats the reason 2003 dodge Cummins injector pumps had a high failure rate because of lack of lubrication to the pumps
they had high failure rates due to low fuel pressure. because it has electric lift pump on the side of engine and after so much vibration they fail then the ip fails.
hayden ingram they put the electric fuel pump in the tank also and they still had issues with them even with the mechanical lift pump anyways got to love government take something simple and make it complicated
I've been looking for a 72 passenger bus myself. I'm partial to the DT466, but haven't totally ruled out the T444E. as an option - the high production numbers should make parts and boneyard scavenge readily available, but tell me, is it enough engine for comfortable highway cruising? What's the "top" speed of your bus (without beating it to death)?
We weigh 22,000 pounds and have additional drag from our roof deck and solar panels and can cruise at 61mph no problem. Mountain highways were troublesome until we replaced the water pump and cleaned the radiator in a commercial degreaser last month
Thanks :)
what did you use for a water pump? I do have the issue in hot weather of mine running a bit warm... I had a bad fan clutch mine is not the nice horton like yours.. its an old-style viscous.. but now that works.. however it still likes to run about 212 or so on hot days at 65 on the freeway with my Air-conditioner on and heater valves closed... I really despise the OH split radiator.. both of my busses have the rad design.. when you say you cleaned your rad in degreaser.. the inside of it or just the outside fins?
LOL everytime you said ICP I laughed and you aaid it a lot. All i could think of was Insane Clown Posse sensor. LOL 😂
Can the sensors cost the engine not starting
Thanks for the Video. I have a 7.3 with a Crank no start. Found the fuel bowl empty. I checked the Volts on the fuel pump and theirs 12v. Do you have any suggestions on what it could be ?
Which error codes are you seeing?
Will Stone None due to the battery was disconnected. Besides the fuel pump what electrical part should I check ?
Could be a clog in the fuel line, a couple different sensors, or the fuel pump... just because it has power doesn't mean it's working. I would start by looking at the error code(s)
Will Stone hi. Im back. Just to let you know. I Replaced the IPR, ICP and the fuel pump. My truck did turned On. But after 5 minutes it turned off. My question is did that happened to the 7.3 engine after replacing all the sensors ?
What about the fuel filter or the 2 screens in the fuel tank?
I wish u showed us the part # for that cam shaft sensor.
Cuantos sensores controlan el motor el.ipr icp y map y donde van ubicados es q tengo un problema con un motor.dd.esos q.me.piede fuerza
Hey man I've got a few questions about this same kind of bus and want to connect with you for some insight
My first question is if the code reader has a round plug or if I need an adapter