Thanks for another great vid, got the fluid changed out on my 2004 Dodge 4x4 Ram 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi and 3.92 gears in Chrysler's 9.25 - 12 bolt rear axle. My oil for sure did not look all that great, got the truck a couple weeks ago and it's about at 160K miles. The old existing RTV squished past the bolts indicated it had been changed at some point before, how many times I'm not sure, but it was way over due. Thankfully Chrysler added a pink colored magnet on the bottom inside to capture metal shavings from the gears as they wear down over many miles. Spent a good amount of time wiping black grime off of the inside, as well as all the metal shavings from the magnet itself. I chose Valvoline full synthetic 75w140 and some CRS limited slip additive in a 7oz bottle from the A-zone (factory calls for at least 4oz). There's a lot of back n forth information on many forums and sites about how other gear oils perform, when it comes down to it I believe it's how and what you do with your truck most often, as well as how many service intervals in miles you have to go before it's time to change gear oil again. The last owner did a ton of towing with my current truck, hence why I was quick to get on changing all the fluids, however I mostly drive my trucks occasionally for hauling light things around in the bed, or drive often in the winter through the snow. So go with the fancy expensive stuff if you're really using your rig hard, if not, save the money and get the conventional stuff that still has good things going for it's brand name. Also, I've read a few times now that the oil level in the rear diff needs to be slightly more below the fill hole, about 5/8", some say if it's level you can run the risk of having too much oil in there which leads to aeration in the oil/foams up and excessive gear wear can occur. I suppose it would be a good idea to test this by having it filled like you guys did in this video, take it for a good long drive at highway speeds, get off somewhere after a while so you can pull the plug and see it it's foaming inside or not. I also have never found anything that suggests using limited slip additive in the front differential, you would think you should if there's a locker in there for your 4x4 system, and not all 4x4 dodge trucks will have a limited slip/posi/SureGrip/anti-spin in the rear differential as well, only way to tell is by spinning the wheels, if both spin the same direction while the rear end is in the air and trans in neutral, you have a limited slip/closed diff, if both spin opposite from each other, then you don't have a limited slip/it's an open diff. Anywho, those are my thoughts, hope this helps!
Just bought an 04 with 338k miles runs like a beast, and no drivetrain issues whatsoever 4x4, trans, motor all excellent. Replacing coolant HOAT, oil mobile 1 extended life full synthetic, and all synthetic trans and diff fluids, why, lol, well if it does everything a $50k 4x4 hemi does why not 338k miles and running strong.... Yeah I'll spend a couple hundred on fluids and make it last.
Thank you. Looks easy enough. Mine is a 2002 Ram 1500 SLT and has 75,000 mi. Probably wait till 100K to change it. I use it to tow a boat and haul yard materials. That's about it. Never had an issue with my truck except a rusted U bolt and a rusted brake line.
That's some low mileage for a 2002!!I have an 08 160,000 miles had to change water pump end of 2022 only issue I have had so far besides paint starting to come off on the roof.About a 6 inch by inch circle.Only spot that I have a bad paint spot.
I use a plastic grocery bag, or similar, to cover the internal parts of the differential (ring gear, carrier) to prevent any debris from scraping old gasket from getting on these parts.
Wondered the same thing. If anything, smearing it would increase the change of a leak. Definitely should have used a bit more if they are going to spread it out.
+Mike Barbier Thanks for watching! He goes over the torque specs and directions for those bolts at the 5:15 mark of the video. It is 30 lb-ft in a crossing pattern. 1aauto.com
+Dylan Zink Thank you for checking us out. It is recommended every 30,000 miles to 60,000 miles. Please confirm exact mileage within a OEM service manual. 1aauto.com
Or you could suck out the diff fluid and refill. Taking off a non leakin diff cover is plain stupid. I used to work in a Chrysler dealership and that's what we did, suck out and refill. Unless your cover is leaking this is stupid and useless
It's a perfect time to inspect the gears, wipe grime off, as well as see how much metal shavings are on the magnet on the bottom inside. That, is the extra few steps towards making things last even longer.
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Thanks for another great vid, got the fluid changed out on my 2004 Dodge 4x4 Ram 1500 with the 5.7L Hemi and 3.92 gears in Chrysler's 9.25 - 12 bolt rear axle. My oil for sure did not look all that great, got the truck a couple weeks ago and it's about at 160K miles. The old existing RTV squished past the bolts indicated it had been changed at some point before, how many times I'm not sure, but it was way over due. Thankfully Chrysler added a pink colored magnet on the bottom inside to capture metal shavings from the gears as they wear down over many miles. Spent a good amount of time wiping black grime off of the inside, as well as all the metal shavings from the magnet itself. I chose Valvoline full synthetic 75w140 and some CRS limited slip additive in a 7oz bottle from the A-zone (factory calls for at least 4oz). There's a lot of back n forth information on many forums and sites about how other gear oils perform, when it comes down to it I believe it's how and what you do with your truck most often, as well as how many service intervals in miles you have to go before it's time to change gear oil again. The last owner did a ton of towing with my current truck, hence why I was quick to get on changing all the fluids, however I mostly drive my trucks occasionally for hauling light things around in the bed, or drive often in the winter through the snow. So go with the fancy expensive stuff if you're really using your rig hard, if not, save the money and get the conventional stuff that still has good things going for it's brand name. Also, I've read a few times now that the oil level in the rear diff needs to be slightly more below the fill hole, about 5/8", some say if it's level you can run the risk of having too much oil in there which leads to aeration in the oil/foams up and excessive gear wear can occur. I suppose it would be a good idea to test this by having it filled like you guys did in this video, take it for a good long drive at highway speeds, get off somewhere after a while so you can pull the plug and see it it's foaming inside or not. I also have never found anything that suggests using limited slip additive in the front differential, you would think you should if there's a locker in there for your 4x4 system, and not all 4x4 dodge trucks will have a limited slip/posi/SureGrip/anti-spin in the rear differential as well, only way to tell is by spinning the wheels, if both spin the same direction while the rear end is in the air and trans in neutral, you have a limited slip/closed diff, if both spin opposite from each other, then you don't have a limited slip/it's an open diff. Anywho, those are my thoughts, hope this helps!
great vid. you guys put out some no-nonsense vids that are easy to follow. keep it up.
Could you just use a pump and pump out the old fluid and pump in a new through the check hole?
How often would you recommend changing the rear differential
I got 260k miles on my 2008 ram 1500 and haven't changed axle fluids one time. I reckon it's about time I get r done
holy shit no kidding i got 272k kilometers on my 02 ram 1500 and about to do rear diff its starting to click when i make sharp turns
I just did mine at 300 and she's mint hahah
Just bought an 04 with 338k miles runs like a beast, and no drivetrain issues whatsoever 4x4, trans, motor all excellent. Replacing coolant HOAT, oil mobile 1 extended life full synthetic, and all synthetic trans and diff fluids, why, lol, well if it does everything a $50k 4x4 hemi does why not 338k miles and running strong.... Yeah I'll spend a couple hundred on fluids and make it last.
OMG I’m in the exact same position except I’m at 220K. Did you ever change it? and did you have any problems afterwards?
@@normanwroblewski935 id like to know as well.
I believe on the 9.25 rear diff the fluid level should be 5/8" below the fill hole....not level with it.
What about the gear oil in each axle? Is there a way to drain that too? Jack up each side?
Thank you. Looks easy enough. Mine is a 2002 Ram 1500 SLT and has 75,000 mi. Probably wait till 100K to change it. I use it to tow a boat and haul yard materials. That's about it. Never had an issue with my truck except a rusted U bolt and a rusted brake line.
+Bass Dojo Thanks for the feedback!
That's some low mileage for a 2002!!I have an 08 160,000 miles had to change water pump end of 2022 only issue I have had so far besides paint starting to come off on the roof.About a 6 inch by inch circle.Only spot that I have a bad paint spot.
Other than inspecting, is there any good reason to remove the cover and not just remove the drain plug?
+Mark Thanks for watching! Things like corrosion or damage could be a reason to remove the cover rather than just the plug. 1aauto.com
@@1AAuto The 1999 Dodge Ram Chrysler diff doesn't have a drain plug.
To all videos' in youtube you guys are the best / accurate!!
Ty.
+Jonathan Bolagner Thanks for the feedback!
I put high temp rtv on the paper gasket, is that okay ?
what about gear oil with additive already in it? wouldnt need the additive im guessing?
I can use only a gasket too right???
Be careful with the bolt size, mine is 1/2" in my 2007 and using a 13mm will round them off if stuck tight. Otherwise great info.
Thank you so much for ur videos
I use a plastic grocery bag, or similar, to cover the internal parts of the differential (ring gear, carrier) to prevent any debris from scraping old gasket from getting on these parts.
+@nofortunatesonII Thanks for the feedback!
Can i use that paper gasket instead then the liquid gasket ? If that make sense ?
very good and to the point thanks
Another very helpful video.
Thanks for checking us out. 1aauto.com +Jim McGettigan
What gear oil did you use brand
Why not just leave the gasket as a bead rather than smearing it down?
Wondered the same thing. If anything, smearing it would increase the change of a leak. Definitely should have used a bit more if they are going to spread it out.
I'm guessing to eliminate air bubbles?
what was sprayed at the end brake cleaner?
Do you use limited slip additive on the front I have 08 ram 1500 5.7 4x4 slt ..
I get the valveoline that has it already in it and that way you are covered Whether it requires it or not
Yeah, did it like that. Thank you. We need those guys......cool
Do i need a rear gasket i got a 2001 dodge ram 1500 4x4 sport
What should I torque the bolts to? Thanks ! Great video
+Mike Barbier Thanks for watching! He goes over the torque specs and directions for those bolts at the 5:15 mark of the video. It is 30 lb-ft in a crossing pattern. 1aauto.com
30
Is this a common service NOT performed but billed by unscrupulous shops?
Which rear end is this
The one farthest from the engine.
Chrysler 9.25
Gary Suarez HAR HAR HAR HAR HAR!!
Is liquid gasket better than buying a gasket?
I like just a gasket myself make sure to get Fel-Pro brand though they are the best
@@fecklarjenkins2549 Thank you
Last time I oped a punkin I put a thin coating of the liquid onto a paper gasket and it seemed to work out fine. That was roughly about 25 years ago.
Thank you
+Lamonte Wood Thank you!
How do I know if mine has a lsd?
How often should you change rear diff fluid ?
+Dylan Zink Thank you for checking us out. It is recommended every 30,000 miles to 60,000 miles. Please confirm exact mileage within a OEM service manual. 1aauto.com
I like 50k on my dodges
30,000-50,000 Or ... Severe service, every 3 years normal service 5 years
You definitely don't torque the bolts down after "a few minutes". Every liquid gasket maker I've used requires at least 1hr set time before torquing.
You can can buy a gasket for these it makes no sense to go through all that work just to put that mess right back on there
What the limited slip. Additive called
Sunshine Insulation j
Hi l am from Mexico wood video's that's
Or you could suck out the diff fluid and refill. Taking off a non leakin diff cover is plain stupid. I used to work in a Chrysler dealership and that's what we did, suck out and refill. Unless your cover is leaking this is stupid and useless
It's a perfect time to inspect the gears, wipe grime off, as well as see how much metal shavings are on the magnet on the bottom inside. That, is the extra few steps towards making things last even longer.
You never know what you will find taking off the cover, in my 04 tahoe there was a chunk of gear in there. Whoops...
THANK YOU
+Karl's Appliance Thank you for your feedback! We are very proud of our videos, and release more all the time.