Paul Sellers, you have enriched my life and I hope to use what you're teaching someday. I'd like to thank you for the effort you've put into making these precise and niche videos and maintaining an excellent channel. I would love to see more people passing on their skills in this manner after retirement.
I only just found this channel and am absolutely loving it. Paul always talks about alternative tools and methods, which makes these videos just so much more useful to me. And he hasn't once suddenly turned to a ridiculously expensive and large tool that no casual hobbyist would ever dream of buying, which is sadly becoming a rarity in TH-cam.
Even making these guides with a pillar drill or milling machine they only work for the first hole for me. Paul Sellars eye is much better than most. I love watching his skill and sense of proportion.
I have a pillar drill for smaller bits of wood and an attachment for a hand drill for larger. Even for hand tool woodworkers these are accurate methods and not too expensive. I think Paul Sellers could drill square by eye. His videos are gently informative.
Hello Paul,been watching and learning from your videos for some years now and I’ve just used your drill guide method today to drill holes for dowels in a small stool seat I’ve made for my grandson . The legs lined up perfectly with no adjustment needed! Thankyou so much👍👍
Love the way Paul doesn't bother with ultra-expensive tools to do his work. If a General brand $13 square is good enough for him, why would anyone buy one of those red ones for $170?
His everyday combination square is definitely worth more than 13 dollars. A square is one of the few tools you really shouldn't skimp on for fine woodworking.
@@Andyjpro after some fine tuning my $13-14 Bahco combination square was dead square in woodworking tolerances and if I need better than that I will get a machinist square anyway.
This is excellent. Im giving stool/chair making a shot and the legs must be tennoned into the seat at a specific angle. Im supposing I can make a guide for any angle, and this is one step in my chair maing that has had me nervous. Not so much now that this technique has been highlighted for me. 😁
Round peg in a square hole, instead of the other way around … Great tips, I was just about to make a drill guide like the second one. Maybe I’ll try the first one as well.
I’ve lazily been using factory made steel corner brackets, square out of the shop and it doesn't wear out, easy to attach a handle with the predrilled holes. Use like the second model in the video.
Beautiful simplicity--no need to shell out $$$ (or £££) to the Wonderful Wood-World Shoppe for that fancy blue-plastic whoozle with the set of phosphor-bronze inserts!
Just curious about your choice of twist drill bits instead of brad point bits. Is there any particular reasoning behind it other than the twist bits being more available, especially in odd sizes?
Paul, I made one of these once by simply drilling a guide hole through a piece of hardwood on a drill press. And it wore out *immediately.* Like, after using it to drill three or four more holes with the cordless drill. It would seem these things need hardened bushings, and you can buy such drill guides with hardened bushings for very little money. Or did I do something wrong maybe?
I would guess it was a little of A and a little of B, assuming you were using beech or hard maple or such. Bushings definitely help, but I've probably used hardwood guides for well over 100 holes before having to re-up. Honestly I've probably lost more than I've worn out since they are so easy to make in the drill press; I don't have a special drawer for them. For larger bits, I try to wax the hole a bit to prevent burning. And if you have a lot of runout in the drill or much curve in the bit, it'll die faster. The key to longevity in my experience is doing like Paul shows here and making sure the bit is in contact with the awl mark in the work before it starts turning. The tip of the bit is the most likely thing to damage this jig.
Technique question: @5:40 when first drilling through the guide, I noticed your drill speed was slow; and again @5:52 when deepening the hole. I get that you want your hand relaxed, follow the guide (or the partly drilled hole as a guide); I get that you want the downward pressure to be minimal, let the drill find its way; but how important is the drill rotational speed at this point? Thanks
Is there a ratio of drill diameters, say finished diameter to pilot diameter, that one should adhere to when making a pilot hole and then finishing with a larger diameter bit? Does hardwood or softwood change that ratio? Thanks.
From my own experience I'd say that there can be quite a big difference; you can get away with 3:1 providing you're careful and don't force the direction. The thing that is best avoided, though, is the SMALL difference, especially with the larger sizes: before the main cutting edges can begin their work the outsides of the drill's spiral can bite into the side of the pilot hole, and lock up,
I'm wondering why no drill is equiped with an iron sight like design. Just two parts on the plastic to reference a machinist sqare against. Instead all drills are kind of rounded.
Use the guide to make new guides. Say it'll drill 5 holes to your satisfaction before it's no good anymore... you now have 5 guides. 5 guides x 5 holes each = 25 holes. Will that be enough for your project? If not use those 5 guides to make more guides. 5 guides can make 25 new guides. 25 new guides x 5 holes each = 125 holes.
Absent that 3mm chisel, couldn't one start out with a simple vee-groove? Cut it on the table saw--cut a bunch of them while you're at it--or by hand, come to that. Most of us have a vee chisel in our kit.
I just drill a hole in a block of wood with a bit the size I need on a drill press when accuracy is at stake and I can't take the piece to the press itself. Like I need one more jig lying around the shop. I can't find the ones I need anyway. Also, several companies make a guide like this with multiple sizes. Especially helpful when drilling into a dowel as they usually have a v-groove.
In my little experience this automatic hole dropping is not as great as he describes it with big holes. Firstly, forstner drill bits, which are said to be the best, don't follow a pilot hole. Secondly, I find that when you have to do multiple follows, there is an error that repeats, and the result is never quite straight. Now, I'm sure Mr. Sellers can make it straight because he is so seasoned. But the imo point of an educational video is not to go and gain 30y of hand-eye-coordination on this, but rather to give us beginners some idiot proof methods. I haven't tried, but for idiot proofing, these seem the best: One youtuber glued a round spirit level to his drill, which I found smart. And then there are those portable drill guides one can purchase or make for this purpose.
@@Sadowsky46 been ther done that, but it can make the side of the drill dull and i consider it important that the drill need sharpness all ways dont, but thanks for idea, and its used in dowel jigs, so it might work, thanks
A valid question regarding the longevity, however I don't think this would be an issue. Isn't that oak he's using? That would be plenty hard enough. Besides, I've found that all the drill bits I've ever used make terrible hole "reaming" tools. I occasionally get lazy and try to widen a pre-existing drilled hole in wood just a smidge using my drill bit with sideforce applied, and it has failed each and every time (so frustrating when all you need is 1/64th more) even when I use so much side force and pull it "in and out" repeatedly, and sometimes it breaks the drill bit. In other words, the sides of a drill bit don't really cut worth a darn even when a side force is applied.
@@jeghedderhenrik I think the sides don’t need to be sharp, just the cutting edges at the tip. And they don’t touch the bushings because they immediately vanish into the work piece
@@joshuamurphy5073no the point is to produce a hole square to the face. If you dont have a bench drill use a square to sight the bit. You dont this ott long winded method of two pieces of wood glued together!
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 I don't know what to say. If you are a woodworker you haven't come to learn the value of creating jigs, then I don't know what to say.
Paul Sellers, you have enriched my life and I hope to use what you're teaching someday. I'd like to thank you for the effort you've put into making these precise and niche videos and maintaining an excellent channel. I would love to see more people passing on their skills in this manner after retirement.
Nothing boring about this video. Thanks Paul!
I only just found this channel and am absolutely loving it. Paul always talks about alternative tools and methods, which makes these videos just so much more useful to me. And he hasn't once suddenly turned to a ridiculously expensive and large tool that no casual hobbyist would ever dream of buying, which is sadly becoming a rarity in TH-cam.
Even making these guides with a pillar drill or milling machine they only work for the first hole for me.
Paul Sellars eye is much better than most. I love watching his skill and sense of proportion.
I have a pillar drill for smaller bits of wood and an attachment for a hand drill for larger. Even for hand tool woodworkers these are accurate methods and not too expensive. I think Paul Sellers could drill square by eye.
His videos are gently informative.
Been watching Paul’s videos for about a decade now. One of the best teachers I’ve ever seen.
Me too, my friend, been watching since around 2015.
Always learning from you. Even when I already know the technique you show. Your presentation skill is addictive.
Hello Paul,been watching and learning from your videos for some years now and I’ve just used your drill guide method today to drill holes for dowels in a small stool seat I’ve made for my grandson . The legs lined up perfectly with no adjustment needed! Thankyou so much👍👍
Watched so many videos about this topic, and I can say this is the best one by far. Dead simple, cheap and perfect guides.
Thanks
Love the way Paul doesn't bother with ultra-expensive tools to do his work. If a General brand $13 square is good enough for him, why would anyone buy one of those red ones for $170?
His everyday combination square is definitely worth more than 13 dollars.
A square is one of the few tools you really shouldn't skimp on for fine woodworking.
@@Andyjpro as long as its square its good. You don't need to spend a lot to get a decent one.
@@richardsinger01 That's my point, inexpensive combination squares are often not actually square and that discrepancy compounds.
Because I like nice tools. Everyone can do this hobby however it works for them
@@Andyjpro after some fine tuning my $13-14 Bahco combination square was dead square in woodworking tolerances and if I need better than that I will get a machinist square anyway.
Simple and quick. Thanks Paul.
I have used both of these types of guides many times and as far as I can tell they worked perfectly. I always enjoy your videos and projects.
Golden hands and golden eyes! I wonder if our grandchildren will have a "Paul Seller"
Now I know how to drill a square hole with a round bit ! 😎👍
Sorry Paul! I couldn't resist it.
I made one of Paul's guides like this and have used it several times and seems to work very well.
Really fantastic tip, Paul! Thanks a bunch! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thank you, Paul! I was planning to make my own drill guides, perfect timing for me :)
Paul you’re an international treasure
Cool technique! I also use similar guides as the depth stop.
Very handy and practical. Thank you sir
This is excellent. Im giving stool/chair making a shot and the legs must be tennoned into the seat at a specific angle. Im supposing I can make a guide for any angle, and this is one step in my chair maing that has had me nervous. Not so much now that this technique has been highlighted for me. 😁
Round peg in a square hole, instead of the other way around …
Great tips, I was just about to make a drill guide like the second one. Maybe I’ll try the first one as well.
Simple but highly effective
I’ve lazily been using factory made steel corner brackets, square out of the shop and it doesn't wear out, easy to attach a handle with the predrilled holes. Use like the second model in the video.
Very useful. Thanks, Paul.
Simple as can be :^) Thanks!
Thank you, Paul. Just what I needed.
Just tack a 90deg angle bracket to a piece of wood, similar to the second jig. Acts as a bushing, works for any diameter drill.
This is one of those ideas that seem obvious on hindsight, but then why didn't I think of it myself when I have needed it?
Love these short tips Paul.
Beautiful simplicity--no need to shell out $$$ (or £££) to the Wonderful Wood-World Shoppe for that fancy blue-plastic whoozle with the set of phosphor-bronze inserts!
I used lego blocks as a guide. No making required. Works like a charm. They are always 90 degrees.😂
Thanks for the tips Paul.
Great information. Thanks Paul.
Very helpful Mr Paul!
Great tips Paul TFS, GB :)
Thanks!
Brilliant!
Thank you
Great tip
THANKS PAUL !
Just curious about your choice of twist drill bits instead of brad point bits. Is there any particular reasoning behind it other than the twist bits being more available, especially in odd sizes?
Brad points are only good for timber. Twist can be used on timber, metal and concrete I’d guess that’s probably why
Likeeeeee from Brazil 👍 🇧🇷
Thank you!🌵🤠
man thats clever nice one paul! great video :D
Very cool
That's good.
Paul,
I made one of these once by simply drilling a guide hole through a piece of hardwood on a drill press. And it wore out *immediately.* Like, after using it to drill three or four more holes with the cordless drill.
It would seem these things need hardened bushings, and you can buy such drill guides with hardened bushings for very little money. Or did I do something wrong maybe?
I would guess it was a little of A and a little of B, assuming you were using beech or hard maple or such.
Bushings definitely help, but I've probably used hardwood guides for well over 100 holes before having to re-up. Honestly I've probably lost more than I've worn out since they are so easy to make in the drill press; I don't have a special drawer for them.
For larger bits, I try to wax the hole a bit to prevent burning. And if you have a lot of runout in the drill or much curve in the bit, it'll die faster.
The key to longevity in my experience is doing like Paul shows here and making sure the bit is in contact with the awl mark in the work before it starts turning. The tip of the bit is the most likely thing to damage this jig.
@@joshuamurphy5073 Even aluminium ones wore out immediately.
I’d say let the tool do the work,you might be pushing a bit too hard maybe 🤔
@@Cancun771 aluminium is both soft and sticky, I doubt it is an improvement on a good piece of hardwood.
Neat!
Technique question: @5:40 when first drilling through the guide, I noticed your drill speed was slow; and again @5:52 when deepening the hole. I get that you want your hand relaxed, follow the guide (or the partly drilled hole as a guide); I get that you want the downward pressure to be minimal, let the drill find its way; but how important is the drill rotational speed at this point? Thanks
Is there a ratio of drill diameters, say finished diameter to pilot diameter, that one should adhere to when making a pilot hole and then finishing with a larger diameter bit? Does hardwood or softwood change that ratio? Thanks.
From my own experience I'd say that there can be quite a big difference; you can get away with 3:1 providing you're careful and don't force the direction. The thing that is best avoided, though, is the SMALL difference, especially with the larger sizes: before the main cutting edges can begin their work the outsides of the drill's spiral can bite into the side of the pilot hole, and lock up,
Is yellow pine ok for this, or is it too soft?
Seems like a drill press might be suitable for this application.
Why not just make the same kind of guide for the brace-and-bit as you did for the twist drill, just bigger?
I'm wondering why no drill is equiped with an iron sight like design. Just two parts on the plastic to reference a machinist sqare against. Instead all drills are kind of rounded.
my problem with guides in wood is that, the drill bit damage / wear out the wood very soon, and then the guide is not vertical anyway
Make another - or drill several 'pilot' size holes in the square guide.
@@flemmingaaberg4457 det ender tit sådan
Use the guide to make new guides. Say it'll drill 5 holes to your satisfaction before it's no good anymore... you now have 5 guides. 5 guides x 5 holes each = 25 holes. Will that be enough for your project? If not use those 5 guides to make more guides. 5 guides can make 25 new guides. 25 new guides x 5 holes each = 125 holes.
Does anyone use the mirror method?
👍
Regarding the statement at 7:14 , in the end result, your holes will still be circular ;)
Absent that 3mm chisel, couldn't one start out with a simple vee-groove? Cut it on the table saw--cut a bunch of them while you're at it--or by hand, come to that. Most of us have a vee chisel in our kit.
I just drill a hole in a block of wood with a bit the size I need on a drill press when accuracy is at stake and I can't take the piece to the press itself. Like I need one more jig lying around the shop. I can't find the ones I need anyway. Also, several companies make a guide like this with multiple sizes. Especially helpful when drilling into a dowel as they usually have a v-groove.
why easy when it can be difficult 😂
In my little experience this automatic hole dropping is not as great as he describes it with big holes. Firstly, forstner drill bits, which are said to be the best, don't follow a pilot hole.
Secondly, I find that when you have to do multiple follows, there is an error that repeats, and the result is never quite straight.
Now, I'm sure Mr. Sellers can make it straight because he is so seasoned. But the imo point of an educational video is not to go and gain 30y of hand-eye-coordination on this, but rather to give us beginners some idiot proof methods.
I haven't tried, but for idiot proofing, these seem the best:
One youtuber glued a round spirit level to his drill, which I found smart.
And then there are those portable drill guides one can purchase or make for this purpose.
👏👏👏👏👏🇺🇿🇺🇿🇺🇿🇺🇿🙋♂️👋
why not use harder wood to make it last longer?
If you want it to last, put a metal bushing into the hole
@@Sadowsky46 been ther done that, but it can make the side of the drill dull and i consider it important that the drill need sharpness all ways dont, but thanks for idea, and its used in dowel jigs, so it might work, thanks
A valid question regarding the longevity, however I don't think this would be an issue. Isn't that oak he's using? That would be plenty hard enough. Besides, I've found that all the drill bits I've ever used make terrible hole "reaming" tools. I occasionally get lazy and try to widen a pre-existing drilled hole in wood just a smidge using my drill bit with sideforce applied, and it has failed each and every time (so frustrating when all you need is 1/64th more) even when I use so much side force and pull it "in and out" repeatedly, and sometimes it breaks the drill bit. In other words, the sides of a drill bit don't really cut worth a darn even when a side force is applied.
@@jeghedderhenrik I think the sides don’t need to be sharp, just the cutting edges at the tip. And they don’t touch the bushings because they immediately vanish into the work piece
Cant see the point of joining two seperate pices of wood. Just drill a hole using a bench drill.
I'd guess the point is not everyone has a drill press.
@@joshuamurphy5073no the point is to produce a hole square to the face. If you dont have a bench drill use a square to sight the bit. You dont this ott long winded method of two pieces of wood glued together!
@@gbwildlifeuk8269 I don't know what to say. If you are a woodworker you haven't come to learn the value of creating jigs, then I don't know what to say.
BRILLIANT! 👍