I consider this jig a little gem, and I use it a lot when I need precision and can't use a drill press. Did you like this video? Write below what you think, thanks.
@@LTMS Haha!! Oops, my bad! I thought your level of precision could only come from Japan... but now I see it's pure Italian craftsmanship at its finest! 🇮🇹😅
This is brilliant 👍 great video. I had no idea what you planned to do until the end. Very clever idea and well put together. I'm sure like all your other looks you have made it will last a life time.
Thanks for your kind thought mate. The hardwood should worn out very little, however it is quick and easy to remake. I glued it but I just realized that if I assembled it with screws it would be easy to disassemble and remove imperfections due to heavy use by sanding or planing.
@@Austeration The trend on YT is to make overly complicated jigs, which certainly impress the viewer, but I like simple and practical things, those that work.
What a brilliant idea, I may refine it a little by adhering metal plates inside the “L” and on the angled slider to prevent wearing the wood and maybe adhere some 400 grit on the underside to prevent the jig from moving when drilling. I know it’s easy to think of modifications when someone has already come up with a brilliant idea but that’s the way of the world 😊
Honestly I had thought about metal, but I noticed that with the prototype (made of pine) it worn out little with small drill bits (up to 5 mm), the problem could be with large bits. The sandpaper is a great idea, I like it a lot. Thanks for sharing your thoughts, I really appreciate it.
@@LTMS the japanese saw and some others, like the little one you use to put the drill straight; you're right, it's probably that they are just uncommon for me. @fg3136 gracias por el dato! hace mucho que no paso por un easy; lo más probable es que haya visto estas herramientas pero no las reconocí, por pura ignorancia.
@@carolinasan6978 Japanese saws are not very common here either, I have only recently discovered them and I can only find 2 out of 5 models. Thanks for your clarification, I really appreciate it.
That's a brilliant jig 🎉 I'm just wondering whether the bevel doesn't get worn out in a bit, as it looks to me like it is in contact with the spinning drill bit during operation?
@@MicheleAncis thanks for the appreciation. It wears very slowly if you use small bits (up to 5mm). I glued it but just realized that if I assembled it with screws it would be easy to take it apart and remove the imperfections due to heavy use by sanding or planing.
@@macmaccourt There is a solution to your problem, I did a couple of tests and it seems to work. Later I'll post some pictures in the Community Tab to explain it.
@@LTMS for problems like tearout, which I learned with spade bits and bits with brad points, is that when you're close to the end put you finger underneath. You can feel when the point comes through, then you flip it over and drill from that side which gives a nice clean edge. You're doing fine, and I love your videos (especially the editing), but if you want to switch to brad point bits then that's a tip I learned.
@@TheMeatyBoosh Thanks for the advice, I usually use them on the drill press because there is the base support that prevents tear out, and also if I have to put in some dowel pins I use them.
There are cheap metal drill bits guides for most common sizes. A small block drilled in the drill press with most common sizes will do the same. I have used both for years. 😅
Honestly I don't remember, I bought them a couple of years ago on Amazon in the medium price range (35/40 € each) and I was surprised by the quality/price ratio.
I had one in pine and it wore out very slowly, with hard wood it should last a long time if you use small bits (up to 5 mm). I also glued the pieces but if you put 2 screws you can disassemble it and eliminate the wear with some sandpaper or a plane. it is a jig that I use when I need to drill perfectly perpendicular, 90% of the holes I do without.
What do you mean the pieces aren't 90? I use hss because they make less tearout on the output if you don't have support, I use brad point at the drill press
Needing to drill a hole just out of reach of the press is one of the most annoying things ever. That's when you would need something like this. Though, I would just go out and buy a jig with an honest steel bushing. This is a lot of work for something that's just going to get wallered out pretty quickly.
@beauprejean-michel3829 Yes and no; it just depends on how square you need your holes to be. There's no such thing as a perfectly square tool and even if there was, any method you use would reduce that "squareness" in one way or another. Drilling is an inherently imprecise operation due to flexing in the drill (the "bit"). Obviously, longer and thinner drills will flex more, even in a drill press, which causes the tip to wander out of "squareness" as it enters/feeds through the workpart. This is one of the reasons we use pilot holes, punch marking, or more preferably, spotting with center drills. The walls of the pilot/punch/spot cause the tip of the drill to self-center as it enters to workpart. This reduces the amount of flexing in the drill which improves the "squareness" of the hole. The best thing you can do to improve "squareness" is use shorter, thicker drills. The second best thing is using a jig with a guide as close to the chuck as possible. The third best thing you can do is spotting with a center drill. The fourth best thing is using multiple graduating pilot holes.
I consider this jig a little gem, and I use it a lot when I need precision and can't use a drill press.
Did you like this video? Write below what you think, thanks.
you know it's an asian person just by the attention to details, it's beautiful to see someone working with so much delicacy and passion
maybe I was asian in a previous life, but in this one I'm 100% italian :)
@@LTMS Haha!! Oops, my bad! I thought your level of precision could only come from Japan... but now I see it's pure Italian craftsmanship at its finest! 🇮🇹😅
@@Cass_772 I've traveled around this planet a lot... let's say I'm a slightly atypical Italian 😏
@@LTMS Well, I'm a atypical Canadian ;) Thanks for sharing your excellency with us, it's really inspiring!
Dumb comment
great idea😊
thank you, I appreciate it.
Thank for sharing
Thank you
Excellent design and good presentation. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you for your kind comment and support, I really appreciate it.
This is brilliant 👍 great video. I had no idea what you planned to do until the end. Very clever idea and well put together. I'm sure like all your other looks you have made it will last a life time.
Thanks for your kind thought mate. The hardwood should worn out very little, however it is quick and easy to remake.
I glued it but I just realized that if I assembled it with screws it would be easy to disassemble and remove imperfections due to heavy use by sanding or planing.
@@LTMS still it's pretty impressive. At least you will know for next time. Still I thought it was pretty impressive .
@@Austeration The trend on YT is to make overly complicated jigs, which certainly impress the viewer, but I like simple and practical things, those that work.
@@LTMS the KISS concept is always the best way that's for sure.
What a brilliant idea, I may refine it a little by adhering metal plates inside the “L” and on the angled slider to prevent wearing the wood and maybe adhere some 400 grit on the underside to prevent the jig from moving when drilling. I know it’s easy to think of modifications when someone has already come up with a brilliant idea but that’s the way of the world 😊
Honestly I had thought about metal, but I noticed that with the prototype (made of pine) it worn out little with small drill bits (up to 5 mm), the problem could be with large bits.
The sandpaper is a great idea, I like it a lot.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts, I really appreciate it.
for the life of me i cannot drill straight. this here to change that. so much appreciated
I'm glad I could help you with my idea. Thanks for letting me know.
Yes, I love your video and I LOVE your tools, some of them (not all of course) don't exist here in Argentina. At least I haven't see them.
Thanks for your kind thoughts. What tools are you talking about? Maybe they are just uncommon or you use other ones instead.
Exceptuando el serrucho japones, todo lo demás lo conseguís en un Easy. El serrucho lo podes comprar en ML, hay unos marca Bremen que son buenos.
@@LTMS the japanese saw and some others, like the little one you use to put the drill straight; you're right, it's probably that they are just uncommon for me. @fg3136 gracias por el dato! hace mucho que no paso por un easy; lo más probable es que haya visto estas herramientas pero no las reconocí, por pura ignorancia.
@@carolinasan6978 Nos pasa a todos, cuando nos metemos a aprender algo le empezamos a prestar atención a un montón de cosas que pasabamos por alto.
@@carolinasan6978 Japanese saws are not very common here either, I have only recently discovered them and I can only find 2 out of 5 models.
Thanks for your clarification, I really appreciate it.
Amazing work 👏👏
Thank you, Master of the Forge.
New subscriber 🔥🔥🔥
Thank you for the support.
That's a brilliant jig 🎉
I'm just wondering whether the bevel doesn't get worn out in a bit, as it looks to me like it is in contact with the spinning drill bit during operation?
@@MicheleAncis thanks for the appreciation. It wears very slowly if you use small bits (up to 5mm). I glued it but just realized that if I assembled it with screws it would be easy to take it apart and remove the imperfections due to heavy use by sanding or planing.
Love it! Now, if only I could figure out how to do that with a 12 mm Forstner bit :/
@@macmaccourt There is a solution to your problem, I did a couple of tests and it seems to work.
Later I'll post some pictures in the Community Tab to explain it.
Read the solution here: shorturl.at/OXynC
@@LTMS thank you very much!
@@LTMS You rock! Thank you!😎👍
@@macmaccourt I'm glad to help you
For drilling wood, should always use brad point bits instead of twist drills. Great idea though. Cheers
Thanks for your kind comment and also the advice.
(I use them because they make less tearout on the through holes)
@@LTMS for problems like tearout, which I learned with spade bits and bits with brad points, is that when you're close to the end put you finger underneath. You can feel when the point comes through, then you flip it over and drill from that side which gives a nice clean edge.
You're doing fine, and I love your videos (especially the editing), but if you want to switch to brad point bits then that's a tip I learned.
@@TheMeatyBoosh Thanks for the advice, I usually use them on the drill press because there is the base support that prevents tear out, and also if I have to put in some dowel pins I use them.
הרעיון עצמו מעולה פשוט האם המקדח לא אוכל את הגרונג?
Yes but very slowly, especially with small bits (up to 5 mm)
There are cheap metal drill bits guides for most common sizes. A small block drilled in the drill press with most common sizes will do the same. I have used both for years. 😅
Do you mean a block of wood with a pilot hole like I showed in the video from 00:42 to 01:30 or something different?
@@LTMS Just a hardwood block with a pilot hole. With brad drill bits of course.
I have the Minecraft block and I can't drill straight. There is a bit of play in there.
@@b3arwithm3 Have tried with brad drill bits?
Nice work. What is your saw brand, please?
Honestly I don't remember, I bought them a couple of years ago on Amazon in the medium price range (35/40 € each) and I was surprised by the quality/price ratio.
@@LTMS thank you
wait. all drills will take out a bit of wood. so eventually you cant use the smaller drills anymore
I had one in pine and it wore out very slowly, with hard wood it should last a long time if you use small bits (up to 5 mm).
I also glued the pieces but if you put 2 screws you can disassemble it and eliminate the wear with some sandpaper or a plane.
it is a jig that I use when I need to drill perfectly perpendicular, 90% of the holes I do without.
🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗💯💯💯💯💯👍👍👍👍👍🇰🇷
Thank you 🤗🙂
Why are you using hss bits for drilling wood. The pieces aren't 90 anyway
What do you mean the pieces aren't 90?
I use hss because they make less tearout on the output if you don't have support, I use brad point at the drill press
If you have to use a drill press to make this tool, what's the point?
@@chrishanson6119 I only used the drill press to make the thumb recess, which can easily be done with a drill.
Even a drill press can be out of square, am I wrong ?
You can use this block when the piece is too big for the drill press. Use your imagination!
Needing to drill a hole just out of reach of the press is one of the most annoying things ever.
That's when you would need something like this.
Though, I would just go out and buy a jig with an honest steel bushing.
This is a lot of work for something that's just going to get wallered out pretty quickly.
@beauprejean-michel3829 Yes and no; it just depends on how square you need your holes to be. There's no such thing as a perfectly square tool and even if there was, any method you use would reduce that "squareness" in one way or another.
Drilling is an inherently imprecise operation due to flexing in the drill (the "bit"). Obviously, longer and thinner drills will flex more, even in a drill press, which causes the tip to wander out of "squareness" as it enters/feeds through the workpart.
This is one of the reasons we use pilot holes, punch marking, or more preferably, spotting with center drills.
The walls of the pilot/punch/spot cause the tip of the drill to self-center as it enters to workpart. This reduces the amount of flexing in the drill which improves the "squareness" of the hole.
The best thing you can do to improve "squareness" is use shorter, thicker drills.
The second best thing is using a jig with a guide as close to the chuck as possible.
The third best thing you can do is spotting with a center drill.
The fourth best thing is using multiple graduating pilot holes.