Excellent! -- this entire series has been a very valuable asset. Absolutely fantastic presentation and demonstration work. Also your video editing is quite impressive -- I'm quite sure this channel will become a very popular stop for many DIY car enthusiasts. Thank you Mr. Williams!!
Thank you for a great series. I did see one error that I must point out. At 36 min point the intermediate clutch piston has a vent hole that must be at the 12 O clock position. This will allow air to vent as oil is filling from the apply port at the 6 O clock .
I enjoy how you spare no detail in your instruction. I didn't see a lot of glossing over or fast forwarding on even the simple tasks. This makes for a very bulletproof instructional video. Nice job.
Thanks a million sir. Something that I'd like to share. I was pressure testing the reverse drum over the pump stator shaft but it wasn't successful, there was excessive air leak. But after blocking the 2 holes on the top and upper side of the shaft with my finger tips and pumped air in short pulses, this action made the carbide rings expand out and seal properly. Only then the reverse clutches went up & down very well, without air leak hissing.
I am using these videos to rebuild my f150 transmission, they are the best most informative on the net. I need my truck back on the road so post the next one asap. Thank you.
I love the video, they do make a lip seal protector kit to install pistons without seal damage. As for forward/input shaft I use a shop press to push out shaft, install rings, use rubber hose around them and hose clamp to resize them. Then reinstall/press in shaft. Always use calipers to measure exact position/depth of shaft in drum before removal to ensure exact placement when done.
I am up to the point of installing those large metal sealing rings on the pump. I cant get them to snap together. Used a pliers. Tried to lift it above the other to lock and snapped one. Geez. Almost done and I am stressed. Everything else went smooth. Thanks for these videos.
I put 2 c clamps to hold the ring snug in the groove . Before tightening the clamp associated with the end of the ring that has to hook the seated end of the ring , I put a very fine needle under the ring end that has to come out of the groove in order to hook the ring closed . This narrow pin holds the ring end out of the groove . Then tighten the second c clamp and then hook ring together by removing the pin
I have watched every one of your videos I have to say this is one well the only teacher I wont to learn from he teaches to retain the information he is teaching I would like to learn some of the older 4R70W's I tore one down the other day and where the case filter would go it is cut out or it's made that way one not sure it's a 1997 f150 4x4 I did notice a cone shaped filter on the back part of the case Thank you and keep up the good work
Thanks for the good videos i am not mecanic but I am trying to rebuilt my transmission on my ford van1998 e150 i am just waiting on class 5 to finish it thanks again
Thank you so much you are a great instructor, I have rebuild my trains exactly as you instructed, I drove the truck for a few miles and it just stop, like if the drive shaft was disconnected, I would give gas but the truck didn't move, I did not what I made wrong, it wont go to OD or non OD it just wont drive any more. I don't know what to look for. May be you can give me a hint. Thank you Doug Z
It would be awesome if there were pfd file tests that we could print out to test how well we know, also could you post a link in the description to the tools you used? Thanks
I replaced the bushings on the reverse drum and it won't go all the way down to the plastic thrust bearing, and it turns hard.is that because of the new bushings? 57:05
This is by far the best transmission video on TH-cam.I've been searching for weeks.im not doing an complete rebuild bit I am replacing frying pump bushing, seal, gasket ect.an this video answered most questions. I'm working on a 05 crown vic interceptor trans. It has a round spring right after the from pump that I don't knw what it is for.ur video does not show this spring. An I only have 1 round spring.is that normal to have only 1 spring? Thxs for the video God bless.can't wait to watch the rest of ur videos.I love to learn about transmission, motors ect
I have one more question if u have time to answer about that wavy spring..I took off the pump quick an didn't notice hour it goes back on.I mean there's a spring and then there's a round straight small bracket. It looks like what the wavy spring sits in.my question is: how does it go back on? Is it pump, spring, bracket? And does it face twds the pump when it's installed? If I don't understand my question plc Lmk I'll try to explain better.
Another tip: DO NOT inject compressed air into the first hole. It'll make the stator piston jump out and you'll have to dismantle it and reassemble it. From what I experienced today.
On those teflon rings I use a worm clamp and just tighten it up to compress the ring gently, wait about 20 minutes or so, then remove the worm clamp. Use the very edges not the center area. Works good. I have anger issues when I destroy my teflons.... It has been professionally diagnosed as "Pissed off beyond belief".
So I rebuilt my 05ford f150 4R75E transmission and after about 10 months idling in my driveway for about an hour the input shaft seal blew out, I bought it to a shop and had a new seal put back in and it blew out again after driving a continuous 180 miles or when it got hot again. What would be the cause of the seal blowing out? The shop did overfill the fluid
My rev clutch clearance is .100+ with the 3 frictions and 2 steels. My clip is .075". I have another steel, but its .070" so that would be to tight. Any suggestions on how to bring the clearance into specs?
+Transmission Bench ...one question please? when putting the pump back together is there a special way the drain hole is supposed to line up so if holds preasure, or doesn't drain back to fast? sorry if it's a stupid question, but I just want to dot my i's and cross my T's... thank you so much for the effort you put into these series, so many of us would be lost without you!!!
I bought a bushing kit and I don’t have a large enough socket for some of the bushings with bushings should you replace other than the pump bushing like for example the sun gear is very hard to replace the bushing. Which ones receive the most wear
I'll definately buy your repair kits for the next two rebuilds I have scheduled for this year, the performance automatic kit was underwhelming. Will the high HP clutches & kolene steels make a difference for a stock rebuild, 07 mustang & 05 explorer?
Hi, what a great set of videos, thanks! This inspired me to rebuilt my -83 aod by myself! I have almost finished rebuilt but i have problem. Sprag, 7roller gives squeaking sound, no matter what i do. Oil,lube doesnt help. Part is brand new, what should i do?
53:05 all I have is the steel rings and they do not fit the pump shaft! no way no how! Now, what. Looking at the original ones they're just split, cut in the center teflon pieces?
We have a 10 Ford e-150 with 250k for parts delivery. The drive said the trans would only shift first then second and then rev up in 3rd and 4th. Found the fluid burnt and pulled the transmission. Found the overdrive band piston hole to be worn out and the 3rd and 4th clutch packs to be burnt. Rebuilt with quality parts and new torque converter. With new rebuild the van has no forward movement in drive and no forward movement in man 1. If switched to man 2 the vehicle will drive then switched to drive while moving the transmission will go threw 3rd and 4th. Trans pressures in drive and 1 st are at 75-80 with foot on brake and gas and just setting still at idle. 2nd shows change in pressure with throttle action. What could be my issue?
Is there supposed to be a spring under the 2-4 shift soldenoid? cause i was taking the pan back down to replace it and a spring fell out with a little metal piece on top of the spring. which looked like it came of it. weird that there was not two or did it come from somewhere else.
My reverse drum was seized because of damaged sprag so I can't tell if I have an mechanical diode or roller clutch how can I tell which one I have so I can get a replacement drum? I'm working on and 94 GT AODE btw
I have a question for us. As I'm reassembling transmission now and trying to just go backwards from part 1. I found randomly that the OD servo pin connects to the overdrive band. Besides that is there anything else that connects to a part from outside cause I was still finishing up valve body shift kit and so stopped putting the sun assemblies in worried a little if I didn't know something.
StippLeTV TV The OD and reverse servo piston pins contact the bands through the case. I took a break from making the videos but I'm back to working on lesson 5 now...
So i have everything in the truck now trucks starts great and everything looked fine... No Engine Codes the problem is when i try to drive it Reverse works park works neutral works: 1. Feels like its in second gear from start 2. it wont shift up No idea what to check Now. HELP please.
can i use 96 crown vic 4r70w housing to replace my 97 gt 4r70w housing i put my trans together 3rd shift neutral out do you know what might be wrong lesson 5 coming soon
Art Jones Hi Art. There are differences in cases that can cause swap problems. I cannot say that they will definitely interchange. You have to check where the MLPS (manual lever position sensor) bolts to the case. The bosses can have different heights. About 3rd gear.... go back and check the separator plate for cracks around the 3rd accumulator area, the two sealing rings on the output shaft, and especially the direct clutch drum. This drum can actually be broken around the center area, but it's hard to tell just by looking at it. You will have to air check it with a rubber tip blow gun while it is installed on the output shaft and look for leaks.
If not they would roll into the groove and possibly get nicked and not seal properly. I soak them in hot water for a few minutes to make them more pliable. There is a special tool to install these with, but the instructor is showing how it can be done by a mechanic with no special tools, old school style you might say.
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
Excellent! -- this entire series has been a very valuable asset. Absolutely fantastic presentation and demonstration work. Also your video editing is quite impressive --
I'm quite sure this channel will become a very popular stop for many DIY car enthusiasts. Thank you Mr. Williams!!
This is the best repair video that will ever be made, nicely done!
Thank you for a great series. I did see one error that I must point out. At 36 min point the intermediate clutch piston has a vent hole that must be at the 12 O clock position. This will allow air to vent as oil is filling from the apply port at the 6 O clock .
I enjoy how you spare no detail in your instruction. I didn't see a lot of glossing over or fast forwarding on even the simple tasks. This makes for a very bulletproof instructional video. Nice job.
Thanks.
Thanks a million sir. Something that I'd like to share. I was pressure testing the reverse drum over the pump stator shaft but it wasn't successful, there was excessive air leak. But after blocking the 2 holes on the top and upper side of the shaft with my finger tips and pumped air in short pulses, this action made the carbide rings expand out and seal properly. Only then the reverse clutches went up & down very well, without air leak hissing.
I am using these videos to rebuild my f150 transmission, they are the best most informative on the net. I need my truck back on the road so post the next one asap. Thank you.
Hi C. I'm working on it.
Thanks for not edittng out how long it takes to do some of the steps so it give a good idea of how long it should actually take.
Love the video,' I have saved time and money doing it myself',thank you for all the information,..keep up the good work..
thanks.
Excellent video, with pointers and tips not seen on other uploads!
Thanks Jim.
Your videos are very good, thanks for putting them together.
I love the video, they do make a lip seal protector kit to install pistons without seal damage. As for forward/input shaft I use a shop press to push out shaft, install rings, use rubber hose around them and hose clamp to resize them. Then reinstall/press in shaft. Always use calipers to measure exact position/depth of shaft in drum before removal to ensure exact placement when done.
My next feet is the 4l80e. I have the skills. This man instills confidence.
I am up to the point of installing those large metal sealing rings on the pump. I cant get them to snap together. Used a pliers. Tried to lift it above the other to lock and snapped one. Geez. Almost done and I am stressed. Everything else went smooth. Thanks for these videos.
i just done mine and i used a small pick to lift up on one side while squeezing it together.
I put 2 c clamps to hold the ring snug in the groove . Before tightening the clamp associated with the end of the ring that has to hook the seated end of the ring , I put a very fine needle under the ring end that has to come out of the groove in order to hook the ring closed . This narrow pin holds the ring end out of the groove . Then tighten the second c clamp and then hook ring together by removing the pin
Thank you for your excellent channel
I have watched every one of your videos I have to say this is one well the only teacher I wont to learn from he teaches to retain the information he is teaching I would like to learn some of the older 4R70W's I tore one down the other day and where the case filter would go it is cut out or it's made that way one not sure it's a 1997 f150 4x4 I did notice a cone shaped filter on the back part of the case Thank you and keep up the good work
Thanks Tommy.
Thanks for the good videos i am not mecanic but I am trying to rebuilt my transmission on my ford van1998 e150 i am just waiting on class 5 to finish it thanks again
Awsome video. Just one thing. That bearing driver needs some attention. I’d get sent home for 3 days if I used something mushroomed like that
When will part 2 lesson 5 be available and will there will be lesson 6. Thanks for the great videos and superior instructions
Thank you so much you are a great instructor, I have rebuild my trains exactly as you instructed, I drove the truck for a few miles and it just stop, like if the drive shaft was disconnected, I would give gas but the truck didn't move, I did not what I made wrong, it wont go to OD or non OD it just wont drive any more. I don't know what to look for. May be you can give me a hint. Thank you Doug Z
26:15 If you don't have a socket big enough and are replacing your overdrive servo piston use your old one, it works perfect and fits it flush
Hi There again,
I am wondering if the 4r75w has an intermediate pump piston? Seems I have either lost it or it doesnt have one. Thanks!
It would be awesome if there were pfd file tests that we could print out to test how well we know, also could you post a link in the description to the tools you used? Thanks
I replaced the bushings on the reverse drum and it won't go all the way down to the plastic thrust bearing, and it turns hard.is that because of the new bushings? 57:05
This is by far the best transmission video on TH-cam.I've been searching for weeks.im not doing an complete rebuild bit I am replacing frying pump bushing, seal, gasket ect.an this video answered most questions. I'm working on a 05 crown vic interceptor trans. It has a round spring right after the from pump that I don't knw what it is for.ur video does not show this spring. An I only have 1 round spring.is that normal to have only 1 spring? Thxs for the video God bless.can't wait to watch the rest of ur videos.I love to learn about transmission, motors ect
wonnieboy Hi. The one round wavy spring is normal for your year model. Thanks, Jimmy
I have one more question if u have time to answer about that wavy spring..I took off the pump quick an didn't notice hour it goes back on.I mean there's a spring and then there's a round straight small bracket. It looks like what the wavy spring sits in.my question is: how does it go back on? Is it pump, spring, bracket? And does it face twds the pump when it's installed? If I don't understand my question plc Lmk I'll try to explain better.
I forgot to thx u for taking ur time to respond.it's a big help to me an I love ur video.so informative..
Hi again Wonnieboy. Could you email me a pic or two of these parts? That would help a lot.
+Transmission Bench how do I email u?
Another tip: DO NOT inject compressed air into the first hole. It'll make the stator piston jump out and you'll have to dismantle it and reassemble it. From what I experienced today.
Isn’t that what he said…the first hole makes with a “‘X”
On those teflon rings I use a worm clamp and just tighten it up to compress the ring gently, wait about 20 minutes or so, then remove the worm clamp. Use the very edges not the center area. Works good. I have anger issues when I destroy my teflons.... It has been professionally diagnosed as "Pissed off beyond belief".
So I rebuilt my 05ford f150 4R75E transmission and after about 10 months idling in my driveway for about an hour the input shaft seal blew out, I bought it to a shop and had a new seal put back in and it blew out again after driving a continuous 180 miles or when it got hot again. What would be the cause of the seal blowing out? The shop did overfill the fluid
My rev clutch clearance is .100+ with the 3 frictions and 2 steels. My clip is .075". I have another steel, but its .070" so that would be to tight. Any suggestions on how to bring the clearance into specs?
I am sorry to correct you , you can interchange the reverse drum as long as you know which drum to use.
+Transmission Bench ...one question please? when putting the pump back together is there a special way the drain hole is supposed to line up so if holds preasure, or doesn't drain back to fast? sorry if it's a stupid question, but I just want to dot my i's and cross my T's... thank you so much for the effort you put into these series, so many of us would be lost without you!!!
Must have piston bleed hole at 12 o'clock position.
I bought a bushing kit and I don’t have a large enough socket for some of the bushings with bushings should you replace other than the pump bushing like for example the sun gear is very hard to replace the bushing.
Which ones receive the most wear
Do you have any instruction on how to rebuild an aod transmission.
I'll definately buy your repair kits for the next two rebuilds I have scheduled for this year, the performance automatic kit was underwhelming. Will the high HP clutches & kolene steels make a difference for a stock rebuild, 07 mustang & 05 explorer?
Damn, that snap ring was a bitch to get in and out....
Hi, what a great set of videos, thanks! This inspired me to rebuilt my -83 aod by myself! I have almost finished rebuilt but i have problem. Sprag, 7roller gives squeaking sound, no matter what i do. Oil,lube doesnt help. Part is brand new, what should i do?
53:05 all I have is the steel rings and they do not fit the pump shaft! no way no how! Now, what. Looking at the original ones they're just split, cut in the center teflon pieces?
We have a 10 Ford e-150 with 250k for parts delivery. The drive said the trans would only shift first then second and then rev up in 3rd and 4th. Found the fluid burnt and pulled the transmission. Found the overdrive band piston hole to be worn out and the 3rd and 4th clutch packs to be burnt. Rebuilt with quality parts and new torque converter. With new rebuild the van has no forward movement in drive and no forward movement in man 1. If switched to man 2 the vehicle will drive then switched to drive while moving the transmission will go threw 3rd and 4th. Trans pressures in drive and 1 st are at 75-80 with foot on brake and gas and just setting still at idle. 2nd shows change in pressure with throttle action. What could be my issue?
Is there supposed to be a spring under the 2-4 shift soldenoid? cause i was taking the pan back down to replace it and a spring fell out with a little metal piece on top of the spring. which looked like it came of it. weird that there was not two or did it come from somewhere else.
42:35 They are like miniature razor blades. I cut my thumbs a handful of times
My reverse drum was seized because of damaged sprag so I can't tell if I have an mechanical diode or roller clutch how can I tell which one I have so I can get a replacement drum? I'm working on and 94 GT AODE btw
I have a question for us. As I'm reassembling transmission now and trying to just go backwards from part 1. I found randomly that the OD servo pin connects to the overdrive band. Besides that is there anything else that connects to a part from outside cause I was still finishing up valve body shift kit and so stopped putting the sun assemblies in worried a little if I didn't know something.
StippLeTV TV The OD and reverse servo piston pins contact the bands through the case. I took a break from making the videos but I'm back to working on lesson 5 now...
So i have everything in the truck now trucks starts great and everything looked fine... No Engine Codes the problem is when i try to drive it Reverse works park works neutral works:
1. Feels like its in second gear from start
2. it wont shift up
No idea what to check Now. HELP please.
HOw did that work out for you Brian, now that you have had some time to work on it.
can i use 96 crown vic 4r70w housing to replace my 97 gt 4r70w housing i put my trans together 3rd shift neutral out do you know what might be wrong lesson 5 coming soon
Art Jones Hi Art. There are differences in cases that can cause swap problems. I cannot say that they will definitely interchange. You have to check where the MLPS (manual lever position sensor) bolts to the case. The bosses can have different heights. About 3rd gear.... go back and check the separator plate for cracks around the 3rd accumulator area, the two sealing rings on the output shaft, and especially the direct clutch drum. This drum can actually be broken around the center area, but it's hard to tell just by looking at it. You will have to air check it with a rubber tip blow gun while it is installed on the output shaft and look for leaks.
why would you stretch nylon rings to install ?
If not they would roll into the groove and possibly get nicked and not seal properly. I soak them in hot water for a few minutes to make them more pliable. There is a special tool to install these with, but the instructor is showing how it can be done by a mechanic with no special tools, old school style you might say.
11:00 Placa friccion
petroleum jelly is a much better assembly lube