🙏If you found this video helpful, please consider sending a couple bucks my way to say thank you by hitting the THANKS button under the video 💲❤. You can't imagine how much I would appreciate it. 🥰
But anyway thank you for this quick refresher course, If my late father finds out what I'm doing he'll come bak from where ever dead dads go n put a lightning bolt up my ass. Ya see he was a master local 58 Detroit union electrician.
I have a home built in 1958 with a 60 Amp main breaker panel box I need to replace with a 100 Amp breaker panel box. Im trying to confirm that the service coming in at the meter is 100 Amp but there are no markings to identify the service amperage. So far it seems that the service is 100 Amp and the wires do not need to be upgraded. I like very much how you made all the wires very orderly on one side of the box. I may have to get a box with enough spaces to do that. The old box is in pretty bad shape and has to be replaced, no chance of just upgrading the main breaker.
The incoming service to the Drip loop on the meter base should be 200 amp. If not, you should be able to request your power company to upgrade it. The drip loop and meter base are generally the responsibility of the home owner to upgrade.
I believe in a sub panel the green screw needs to be removed. The green screw bonds the metal box to the neutral bar. In a main panel this is correct. The ground and neutral wires are both attached to the neutral bus. Just as you have done for for this sub panel the grounds are on a distinct bus. This distinct bus is bonded to the metal panel therefore grounding the panel box. Leaving the grounding screw in the sub panel prevent distinct paths from the sub panel back to the main panel for neutral and ground. Example would be if the neutral wire between the main and sub panels is damaged or disconnected the neutral from the sub panel will now travel back the to main panel on the ground path.
I also noticed that the bonding screw was left in and never mentioned. Since I am a self educated electrician I was wondering if anyone else noticed or was my understanding faulty. The way I understood it was that the neutral on any sub panel has to be kept separate from the ground as diligently as the hot wires. I always run my grounds together first in the back of the box to insure that they are clear of the neutral bar and my neutrals to the opposite side. Your explanation of why this is important is greatly appreciated.
At the beginning when you test the main voltage, you should test your voltmeter first. I would go to the disconnect and test the voltage there or turn the power back on and check for 240 volts and then shut it off and check for zero. I have about 6 voltmeters and when the batteries get low or the probe wire break internally you don't know until you check a live voltage. I happens to me all the time and the voltmeters can also be fried internally from making a stupid connection and burning them. I just found the black wire on a brand new voltmeter with a clamp on ammeter had a broken black probe wire. I just thought it was a bad meter until I switched wires.
Cut myself deep. Stripping a wire and hand went across the inside edge of my Square D load Center. Why can't they grind those things smooth when the manufactur them?
Nice job. FYI, on a subpanel, the green bonding screw is removed completely (i.e. the grounds and neutrals are separated. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
WHOA! Loved all of it except the music blew me out of my chair when it came on! Yeah turn it down on the next one please. Thanks for sharing, Thumbs Up! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
@@SierraGolfNiner Okay. I use a $200 set of Audio-Technica professional headphones to adjust the volume on my videos, and I am not hearing the volume boost level you are. Yes, the music is louder, but not to the extent that you are hearing it. I do all my volume editing at 50%, and adjust the volume to where it is loud, but comfortable at 50%. The reason for this is because, 80% of the people watching my videos, are watching on a smartphone with tiny speakers. Have you ever watched a TH-cam video on your smartphone and you could not get the volume loud enough to hear anything? Well, I have to make the video louder than normal because of this. Most people are watching on a smartphone. I have noticed that when I watch my videos on my Smart TV, there is a great difference between voice volume and music volume. This has to do with equalizer presets, I assume, but only about 5% of people watching my videos are doing so on a TV, I can't adjust everything for that market. I hear you, and I will try to do better in the future, but please realize, it is not as simple as 123. People are watching my videos on a plethora of different devices of different quality, from $50 tablets and $5 speakers to $2,000 Bose 12-point surround sound systems. It is hard to adjust for everyone.
dexfit gloves are the only ones I've found that don't mess up my dexterity, there are probably others though, hard to put on and off but once i wear them for a few minutes i can handle parts without any issues
Very nice work! Also, we purchased two of the Campark Trail cameras and discovered we had a bad rat problem. With the cameras out each night, we have been able to trace our progress and discovered they were drinking a very small drip from our water heater we didn't know we had. Thanks for your great TH-cams
you need to remove the green screw in a sub panel as its bonding the neutral to the panel itself. You have effectively bonded the ground and neutral at this sub panel by leaving the screw in.
@@KevinCoop1 I am not a licensed electrician so I dont wanna go through a bunch of what if scenarios given the fact that there are a ton of exceptions in the NEC, and each Jurisdiction interprets code (and is on different code revisions) differently. I just work with electricians so I've picked up a bunch of electical knowledge such as when to bond the neutral and ground and when not to.
@@KevinCoop1 unfortunately I'm gonna say to consult either a local electican, or your local electical inspector. They can answer those kind of specific questions.
Correct Trevor. If that green screw is left in then the neutral and ground are bonded. Code inspectors usually want to see that green screw removed and in you hand. This is not a code interpretation but a basic requirement for sub panels. Leaving it in can cause current to flow through metal objects if there is a fault.
Nice Job! The ground bar should be compatible with the panel. No use for using self tapping screws. You mentioned the separation of the grounds and neutrals, should’ve mentioned removal of the bonding screw or not installing it if it was in the box.
Is there a problem with only loading one of the two phases. I usually see balanced phases to not overwork the neutral, that neutral looks big enough regardless.
I came back to this video after scratching my head about the prevalent advice in the comments regarding the bonded neutral. Of course the correct knee jerk reaction is that you should never bond neutral in a subpanel, which certainly applies to almost any subpanel. However let's think about rare exceptions. I believe the main panel for this install is in another building, and this mobile home subpanel is fed by the old style three-wire feed. The ground wire seems to enter in separate conduit, I'm going to assume it leads to its own properly installed ground electrode rather than back to the main panel. That violates new building code, but there are millions of outbuildings, garages, etc that were wired this way, it was a standard install a generation ago. Indeed, even the NEC recognize this and consider it a valid exception to the general rule. Let's assume there is no metal pathway for ground current back to the main panel. If so, without the neutral bond, he has a TT earthing system, with a high impedance pathway for ground faults through earth back to the tranformer. As such, even a dead short to ground is not likely to trip a breaker if the neutral is not bonded (not enough current because ground electrode resistance is high). This is why old three wire feeds to outbuildings bond neutral, to give the breaker every chance to trip in case of a ground fault. Risk trumps the parallel path concern. The safer options to avoid bonding would be to either install an EGC back to main panel, or to insert a service entrance GFCI in its own box before those big wires enter the trailer panel. The real lesson should be to get an inspection, even if you think you did it right.
Just FYI, this installation was certified by a Master Electrician. I do not pay attention to the comments because YT is global and there are many different codes in this world. In the US codes vary state to state and even city to city. TH-cam commenters often forget that there is a big world out there and that there own little local way of doing things is not always the way it is done other places. Americans in particular are really bad about thinking Their way, is the ONLY way. The great pyramids will be standing long after everything built by modern engineers have turned to dust. So who knows the best way to build?🤔🧐
Spelunkered, your comment was spot on! The method of feeding one building from another grounding flip flopped back and forth for several Code cycles. They couldn’t decide which way to do it. It stopped changing in mid 90’s. Currently it is equipment ground in feeder with grounding electrode conductor to grounding electrode, and a main disconnect at or near feeder entrance. Good job stating facts for safety!
@@KevinCoop1 I installed a two circuit feed to a greenhouse last year, with a ground conductor back to the main panel, and I did exactly as you state above. On formal Canadian inspection, the only thing they required me to change was to remove my ground rod. They didn't like the way there were two potential pathways to the house ground, so they wanted the greenhouse ground rod gone to reduce the chance of stray currents. I was a little surprised, mainly because that ground also served as lightning protection.
@@spelunkerd You need to educate your inspector. Ground rods have nothing to do with the ground path he is referring to. The only purpose of ground rods is for lightning and the surges caused by it. In NEC, the ground rod is required to be connected to the ground bar for sub panels in a different building. The last time I looked at Canadian Electrical Code, it is pretty much the same as NEC.
How did you turn power off? Was with the electric company? I was sure you could turn main switch but that the two main lugs would still be hot? Getting ready to do this.
First of all, nice clean job! from the original set up, this is a master-piece. I was wondering on what you do when the wiring to a breaker is short. Can you splice/wire nut an extra length to reach the breaker? ...... reason I ask is because I'm interested in installing an interlock kit in the panel and the spot where the lock gets situated is already occupied by two single pole breakers that will need to be moved further down the panel. I haven't looked yet, but I think those wires may need to be extended. I could go with a transfer switch, but that's another bear.
Thanks. Thanks for the suggestion. It is a valid point. I feel that even though I was technically upgrading a sub-panel (because of my unique situation), in 99.99% of most people's homes, their home breaker box is the main panel and not a sub-panel. The instruction given, apply to both, and I explain the difference in the video, so I feel that it is kind of a mute issue. I will keep your suggestion in mind and if I feel it is necessary to change it in the future, I will.
So in a main panel, the ground and neutral are paired together and all land on the same bus bars right? Whereas on a sub panel, the ground and neutral must be on separate bus bars right?
Breaker panels have a staggered buss system, so even though the breakers are all on one side, they are connected to alternate busses, one next to the other. Take a look at this image to see what I mean images.thdstatic.com/productImages/69bdc30e-6791-4880-9f03-8ec55fa76609/svn/individual-subpanels-chp24l125r-64_600.jpg
Did you bolt in or fasten in that breaker on the bottom that you sre using as a disconnect for the panel. It must be mechanically secured if it is. If it eas a breaker feeding s branch circuit it eould mot have to be bolted in or decured with an approved clip.
Can you answer me a question? Why is an expert like yourself, that knows how to do it, going around watching TH-cam videos on how to do something you already know how to do? Just curious 🤨
Because I do learn things from these videos and want to go into what was done right or wrong and give an explanation as to why so the guy using these viyas a guide to doing his own work can get a little more information.
@johndavies2949 @johndavies2949 So you do not consider yourself to be an expert then, and admit you are still learning. Okay. Just making sure, because, you came on like you were an expert speaking with authority and not just a learner sharing what you think you know. Glad we cleared that up. Just FYI. Almost no one reads the comments on a TH-cam video.
Does upgrading from older model panel lets say 14 breakers to newer model 20+ breakers, does that upgrade watt maximum allowable (sharing with 2 units/apts)?
This question is a bit too complex to answer on such little information. There are just too many variables to give good advice without an onsite inspection of what you are trying to do.
@@thejungleexplorer well just trying to get a general question, lets say home is 1990's electrical, older model circuit breakers. Does upgrading the hardware to 2010+ models make them more efficient and more sturdy? Does upgrading from from 150 amp to 200 amp panel actually make all attached electrics perform better- i.e. avoiding overcharge? thanks
@@aleks8730 If I understand you correctly, you are asking about efficiency, as in, would a modern electrical system is more efficient than a 1990s system. I would say that the efficiency improvement would not be significant enough to be measured if all systems were functioning properly. There is not much difference between a 1990s electrical system and a 2022 system. All of the components are essentially manufactured the same. I am wondering if your reason for asking this question is that you are considering upgrading to a Solar or Wind power system where every single watt counts?
very informative tutorial, thank you for taking the time to put this together and share it with us greatly appreciated, thank you and keep up the good work, very neat work, awesome
I have been doing electrical work by myself for just my house.. By the way, hydro company did replace from old style analog meter to new style digital smart meter recently.. I did replace a main breaker last time (I did pull out old style analog hydro meter and I did put it back after replace main breaker).. If I need to replace a main breaker someday(later), Can I work same way? (Even though it did change from old style analog meter to digital smart meter)..Please leave me an answer for me
If I understand you correctly, you are asking about changing out your main disconnect between your meter base on your panel. To do this, you would need to pull the meter out. You would need to contact your power company to do this for you since they are the ones that own the meter.
Thanks for showing us how to turn off the main power coming into the house. This was really helpful as I'm about to stick a screwdriver into the panel.
No need to be snarky. Every situation is unique There is more than way to do it depending on the situation and how it is set up. In some cases, it might be required to have the electric company pull the meter. Bottom line, if a person is not capable of even turning the power off, they probably should not be replacing their own panel. 🧐
Thanks for the video, hope I didn't miss this in your video..... if the wires are too short, can a splice be added using wire nuts, where the wire nut connections would be contained in the main panel box?
You got to do what you got to do. It is okay to splice to extend the wire if necessary. I try to position the new box in such a way as to not have to splice, but sometimes it is unavoidable.
Good neat work however, The green screw bonds the metal box to the neutral bar if you don't remove it the neutral and grounds are still bonded in the panel also torque settings are required in most areas of the U.S. "not just as tight as you can get them". Other than that looks like good neat work. We all learn as we go I am not being critical I am just trying to pass on what little I know to a fellow human being.
According to what I have been told a Master electrician, the green bonding screw only needs to be removed if the sub panel is grounded through the main panel. However, this sub panel had its own dedicated ground. A few other licenced electricians have also stated this in the comments.
Kind of odd that the neutral bar is right under the main power leads... could be pretty dangerous if that insulation got nicked. Good video though enjoyed watching 👍
Does the power company need to shut off the power than runs into the box from outside to power the circuit panel? I’m confused as to how the power is all off when you turn off the main breaker
Each situation will be unique. In my case, I had a main disconnect below the meter base to cut the power. Your situation will be different. Only you can know what is necessary for your situation.
That 2nderry ground bus bar also needs to be from the same panel manufacturer or approved for use in that panel you can't just willy nilley salvage parts to be NEC compliant
Awesome video. Clean work. My only suggestion is not to go by wire gauge in the panel to determine your breaker amperage. As a rule, I never go higher than what was there before. Just because the homerun is 12 gauge doesn’t mean the next leg is. If it’s a 15 amp breaker but 12 gauge, I wouldn’t upgrade to a 20 amp I would leave it at 15. I know my house too :)
You should consider both. You're right, but like he pointed out in the video, most of the old breakers were larger than allowed, so wire size was his best guide. Of course, he could have mapped all the circuits and used lower amp breakers if it made sense, too.
This is very true...the first house I ever built in 1976 had some 15 amp circuits for the bed rooms and living room but due to the length of the circuits 12 g wire was run for the home run from the breaker box to the first junction box (to minimize voltage drop) and from there 14 g wire was run to the remaining receptacles so you can't always go by the size of the wire in the panel. Nice neat job but I hope Jungle Explorer has removed that green bonding screw to keep any return current from flowing on the ground. Return current should only be on the neutral; the ground is only there for faults.
@@MexDurango11 Technically, the power company owns the meter, but you own the meter base. Not all power companies are owned by the city and each will have its own recommendation. However, all of them will always recommend that homeowners hire a licensed electrician to do any home electrical work what-so-ever, no matter how small. It will never be anything else. So that is the answer to this and all future questions you may have about what the city recommends. Me personally, as an American Conservative, I never ask permission to be an independent rugged individualistic American after the example of the Founders of this great Nation. There are risks associated with choosing to live this way, but there was also risks associated with the Founders loading their families into wooden boats to sail across the Atlantic ocean to a new land that would later be called "America! Land of the Free!". In my opinion; It is not a free land anymore if you are not allowed to do things for yourself.
NEC states the main breaker cannot be over 6 feet from floor but box can go all the way to the floor 16 inches from Door and 30 inches from front cover to wall. Box cannot be in a closet or in a bedroom. So if changing a old box that's grandfathered in you have to relocate box and meter and lead in cannot be in a closet or bedroom.😊
I thought good practice is to try to share the loads between the two bus bars? You have all of your breakers down the left side of the panel, therefore they are all drawing power from the left bus bar and a single feed wire. A better way to do the initial breaker setup would have been to have half of the 15 amp and half of the 20 amp breakers on the right bus bar. Then in the future, if circuits are added, alternate between using the two bus bars. Thanks for posting the video, there are some helpful tip
Bend and insulate mains with tape never leave a wire sticking out straight bare that can contact your skin or hit you in the eye or face. You never know if the wires could be energized if you pull the meter but still don't allow wires to stick straight out towards arms and face
That depends on whether they ran a separate ground from the main panel. If they only ran 2 hots and a neutral, you leave the neutrals bonded to the grounds in a sub-panel.
@@thomasmarable6818 you are correct on new work. My only point was on some older homes like mine (1963), before having a separate ground was common (or code), they generally ran only 2 hots and neutral to a sub-panel. In these cases it is correct to have the neutrals/grounds bonded together. In any modern panel you should run a grounding conductor and separate them in the sub.
@@jesusostos3184 not sure I understand your question. Any new work, they need to run 2 hots, 1 neutral, and a ground to the sub-panel, and then ground bus and neutral bus should be separated in the sub-panel. I just had some old work that was grandfathered in. Ground wires were not common in the 60's.
I would have removed the green screw. The green screw would be a misleading a visual indication that you've bonded the neutral, because it's not obvious that you haven't screwed it in. Also did you use a cable connector for the ground wire? Still think it needs protection, might require it by code too, don't remember. Why not just put it through the main hole with your feeders?
Is this something a DIY can do if they know basic electrical or would it be wise to get a license electrician to do it I'm just curious I'll probably know the answer anyway
In my case, this was a sub panel, so I had a main disconnect. If you are dealing with a main panel, you will have to have the meter pulled by the power company.
what do i do if the main wire coming in the house are to short to raise the breaker box? im raising my laundry room floor and thats where the box is located
GFCI outlets are required within 6 feet of a water source and on the exterior. However, any outlets downstream of a GFCI outlet are also protected, even though they are regular outlets.
So you dont have to have a breaker with gfi pig tail on it for rooms with a water supply in the main box sorta makes more sences to stop it at the source
Great video, thanks for sharing !! Question : Can I use a 30amp breaker for a craft shop I have w/ wood lathe, soldering station, wood burning station, and then plenty of lights and music ?? You see, i buried a 3/12 weather proof wire out to the shop (70 feet). I wish I had buried 10g wire but I didn't. Anyway, nothing actually pulls many amps w/ the lathe pulling about 9 on start-up and runs on 5 to 7 under load. But, I use bright LED lighting, charge camera batteries, music on the laptop, etc... I don't know what the lights pull but I have 2 - 2 bulb florecents 4' long, a bright 8"x 8" LED light on a stand and use one of the machines I mentioned at the same time ...... at most. If this pulls near 20amps I figure I might want to install a 25amp or 30amp breaker. DO YOU THINK IT COULD BE A PROBLEM ?? Thanks for your generous consideration, Sincerely ................................. Steph
Unfortunately, it is not code or recommend to put a 30 amp breaker on 12ga wire. The breaker size does not offer more power. The breaker is there to protect the wire from over amperage that can lead to excessive heat and wire deterioration. Adding a 30 amp breaker will not change anything, but it may put your underground wire at risk. I hope this helps.
Your 12/3 wire will not handle what you want to do. Also if you buried a yellow or white cable underground those cables are not designed to be buried. Only grey cables are designed to be buried. I don't know of any 12/3 cable being rated to be buried.
My reccomendation is if you have 2 extra spaces in your main panel is to install a subpanel in your shop. This would require extra expense but you would then be able to wire outlets as needed along with wiring the lighting separately.
that is not a sub panel, the code requires a disconnect near the service entrance, i.e., you meter. Using a "disconnect" there does not make it a main panel. I see people use the term sub panel and usually it is not. IMO...Installing all the breakers on one side essentially is installing all the load on one phase from the meter. Try to balance the load for each phase...Very neat work. Thanks I did learn from this video.
@@thomasmarable6818 the guy installed a "disconnect" after the meter with a breaker which doesnt make this a subfeed panel. IMO. If I were this guy I would have used a MLO panel in the mobile home. There are some rules when it comes to mobile homes that a little different. I would not call this a subfeed based on the info shown in the video.
GFCI outlets are required within 6 feet of a water source or on the exterior of a house. Normal breakers can be replaced with AFCI breakers if desired. Please check with your local and state codes for full compliance, as these are constantly changing.
yeah practicly everything should be protected afci and gfci if you want to upgrade get a plug on neutral panel it makes it easier to install a bunch of afci Breakers
My uncle called the power company to make sure they turned it off service like he requested just in case. They said ..." yep...your good to go."... it wasn't true. He survived...he was lucky. Turn off and unplug electric always. There are exceptions though. Many parts of circuitry store or hold electricity and can discharge. Static, fire, magnets, and stray leftover screws are another thing. A basic test pen light will show current to any novice.
(QUESTION below) I bought an older mobile home... so many issues an inspector would jaw drop.... When they (previous owners) wanted something to add on to they tapped into a kitchen light and overloaded it... so many dumb half as*ed wiring I am surprised the place didn't burn down... .Then I found outlets/lights powered by 2 separate breakers.. it was SHOCKing to find... . . . . . QUESTION: I have a 200 amp breaker right after the meter and then going to the utility hook up then to the 200 amp breaker panel... Would I need to keep the ground and negative separated ? removing the busbar?
I am not a Master electrician, so take what I say with that in mind. To the best of my knowledge, if you have a main breaker panel at the service pole, this makes your breaker panel a sub-panel. If your ground is supplied from the main panel at the pole, you need to have a Bonded Neutral and Grounding buss in the subpanel. But if you have provided a dedicated ground to the subpanel, then you need an unbounded ground. At least this what I have been told.
I would have just pulled the paneling off the wall and reframed the new box to fit right and then rewire everything and then put in new paneling, or upgrade the wall to sheetrock.
You didn't tighten the strain strap screws on the bottom for the incoming conductors. I could see the conductors move when you added the second conductor to the 100A breaker.
If you decided to upgrade the panel. And wanted a larger capacity panel. You would also need to upgrade your meter and your service entrance conductors
That’s why I usually wear gloves with the fingertips cut off, I get sick of getting jabbed over and over, it gets old fast especially when you work with your hands a lot
I am always fascinated when experts comment on my DIY video. I personally never watch videos for things I know how to do and it fascinates me when experts watch videos for things they already know how to do. I mean, what could the reason they go around watching videos for things they already know how to do? It is an interesting psychological phenomenon.
Chris Michaud, just so you know, with the newer aluminum conductors, there is no requirement be the NEC, or the manufacturer of the conductors for that product. There are a few manufacturers instructions for very few products that do require it. And the maker of the product is not going to tell you it’s not required.
@@thejungleexplorer Old guys sometimes like to look at videos like this even though they know what they are doing just to kill some time or see how diy guys do things. Very neat wiring job! Like another person said, if that ground wire goes to a ground rod that is not also solidly wired to the neutral at the main disconnect, you should leave that green bonding screw in place, otherwise you could have a difference of potential between the ground system at the sub panel and the neutral, which would be dangerous. But this is not the proper way to ground a sub panel. However if there is a solid metallic connection from the ground wire at your sub panel all the way back to the main disconnect, you should remove the green bonding screw, even if a ground rod is involved along the way. And this is the proper way to ground the sub panel.
Nothng But Gadgets gave the correct answer. If you pay careful attention to the bus plate in the box, you will see that it zigzags back and forth, so that each breaker is on a different bus when installed as you see in the video.
A number of mistakes. Must remove green bonding screw in a sub panel, self tapping screws are not allowed to be used for a grounding bar. Must be tapped in with at least two threads of screw in the metal. If that is not possible you must use a nut and bolt fastener for ground bar. With aluminum wire he should have applied nolux on those wires and also should have checked what the proper torque is for those particular breaker lugs. So you can overtighten or undertighten. Please always consults manufacturers specs on all torque settings. And lastly he should have installed a plastic bushing on the 1 1/4 connector for the SER wire feed.
@@thomasmarable6818 Bushings are required by 250.92(B)(4) for bonding at services and by 312.6(C) for conductors 4 AWG or larger. Other references are 342.46, 344.46, 352.46, 445.16, 312.6(C), 430.13, 314.17(D), 314.42, 426.22(C), 300.5(H), and 300.16(B)
@@thomasmarable6818 yes I agree on today’s aluminum conductors no lox is not required or needed because of the mix of alloys in the wire, but this was a replacement of a panel using existing cable. Best practice is to use nolox if it’s an older wire.
Technically code would call that a Feeder panel (and the conduct from your main breaker panel). You did a good job re-organizing the wire, properly sizing the breaker and correct ground bonding. I wouldnt have resized the panel with a larger one. Also installing panel upside down bit isn't code. I get you were working with the wires but just a note.
Hello there, I would like to send you a few pictures of my box in hopes for some advice. I would like to leave me email with you and if you reply I can send you pics of the way they left this box in the house i bought. It cant handle the load and I know it needs to be replaced. We had a few power outages in our area that may have also caused the box to surge and jeopardize the box. But it needs to be replaced. I think that it is the main box and it is not the sub. To whom may be able to help me keep this house going for my kids and I.
Okay, if it is the main box, you will have to have the meter pulled by the city in order to disconnect the power (unless there is the main disconnect somewhere). If you live in a city, the local codes will probably require that the electrical work be done and certified by a licensed electrician before they will reconnect the meter. This is especially true if you have a digital remotely monitored meter. If you live in the county, the codes may be laxer, but this varies greatly from state to state and county to county. I would check with your local codes before attempting anything because you definitely want the electricity disconnected before you try to work on your own box, and if pulling the meter is the only way, that is where the trouble comes in with the local authorities.
🙏If you found this video helpful, please consider sending a couple bucks my way to say thank you by hitting the THANKS button under the video 💲❤. You can't imagine how much I would appreciate it. 🥰
Or maybe you send me a couple bucks so I get good wire and don't blow my punk butt up!
But anyway thank you for this quick refresher course, If my late father finds out what I'm doing he'll come bak from where ever dead dads go n put a lightning bolt up my ass. Ya see he was a master local 58 Detroit union electrician.
I actually scrolled through all 200+ comments because you are a hilarious individual. The video was also great, thanks
Glad you enjoyed them. I am here all week! 😂
I have a home built in 1958 with a 60 Amp main breaker panel box I need to replace with a 100 Amp breaker panel box. Im trying to confirm that the service coming in at the meter is 100 Amp but there are no markings to identify the service amperage. So far it seems that the service is 100 Amp and the wires do not need to be upgraded. I like very much how you made all the wires very orderly on one side of the box. I may have to get a box with enough spaces to do that. The old box is in pretty bad shape and has to be replaced, no chance of just upgrading the main breaker.
The incoming service to the Drip loop on the meter base should be 200 amp. If not, you should be able to request your power company to upgrade it. The drip loop and meter base are generally the responsibility of the home owner to upgrade.
I believe in a sub panel the green screw needs to be removed. The green screw bonds the metal box to the neutral bar. In a main panel this is correct. The ground and neutral wires are both attached to the neutral bus. Just as you have done for for this sub panel the grounds are on a distinct bus. This distinct bus is bonded to the metal panel therefore grounding the panel box. Leaving the grounding screw in the sub panel prevent distinct paths from the sub panel back to the main panel for neutral and ground. Example would be if the neutral wire between the main and sub panels is damaged or disconnected the neutral from the sub panel will now travel back the to main panel on the ground path.
I also noticed that the bonding screw was left in and never mentioned. Since I am a self educated electrician I was wondering if anyone else noticed or was my understanding faulty. The way I understood it was that the neutral on any sub panel has to be kept separate from the ground as diligently as the hot wires. I always run my grounds together first in the back of the box to insure that they are clear of the neutral bar and my neutrals to the opposite side. Your explanation of why this is important is greatly appreciated.
Thank you for commenting
Does your comment change if I tell you there is NO Equipment Ground Conductor from the main panel to this panel? Respectfully, Kevin
definitely need to remove the green screw, the point of a separate ground bar is to separate the neutral from ground, the green screw connects them
DANG! OUTSTANDING JOB. Clean and precise
Thanks
At the beginning when you test the main voltage, you should test your voltmeter first. I would go to the disconnect and test the voltage there or turn the power back on and check for 240 volts and then shut it off and check for zero. I have about 6 voltmeters and when the batteries get low or the probe wire break internally you don't know until you check a live voltage. I happens to me all the time and the voltmeters can also be fried internally from making a stupid connection and burning them. I just found the black wire on a brand new voltmeter with a clamp on ammeter had a broken black probe wire. I just thought it was a bad meter until I switched wires.
Just got done going through all that
Same stuff, including the wounds on the hands 🙌
Thank you for commenting Anna Fraley. I am very happy to hear that you enjoyed the video.
Cut myself deep. Stripping a wire and hand went across the inside edge of my Square D load Center. Why can't they grind those things smooth when the manufactur them?
Nicely produced video. You did a great job with how everything was so cleaning organized with the wires at the end of the video.
Nice job.
FYI, on a subpanel, the green bonding screw is removed completely (i.e. the grounds and neutrals are separated.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
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WHOA! Loved all of it except the music blew me out of my chair when it came on! Yeah turn it down on the next one please. Thanks for sharing, Thumbs Up! Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Booger Bear
Yes this. Balance the volume between your talking and the music. I had to turn the music down so much I didn't realize you were talking again.
@@SierraGolfNiner May ask you a question? Were you using earbuds when watching the video?
@@thejungleexplorer Nope. Was using speakers on my desktop computer.
@@SierraGolfNiner Okay. I use a $200 set of Audio-Technica professional headphones to adjust the volume on my videos, and I am not hearing the volume boost level you are. Yes, the music is louder, but not to the extent that you are hearing it.
I do all my volume editing at 50%, and adjust the volume to where it is loud, but comfortable at 50%. The reason for this is because, 80% of the people watching my videos, are watching on a smartphone with tiny speakers. Have you ever watched a TH-cam video on your smartphone and you could not get the volume loud enough to hear anything? Well, I have to make the video louder than normal because of this. Most people are watching on a smartphone.
I have noticed that when I watch my videos on my Smart TV, there is a great difference between voice volume and music volume. This has to do with equalizer presets, I assume, but only about 5% of people watching my videos are doing so on a TV, I can't adjust everything for that market.
I hear you, and I will try to do better in the future, but please realize, it is not as simple as 123. People are watching my videos on a plethora of different devices of different quality, from $50 tablets and $5 speakers to $2,000 Bose 12-point surround sound systems. It is hard to adjust for everyone.
Great job even tho your breaker is off a good habit is neutral is the first on last off so your always somewhat protected.
Really nice work that wiring work is outstanding coming from an old telephone cable splicer
Thank you for commenting Glen Winfield! I am so glad the video was helpful.
dexfit gloves are the only ones I've found that don't mess up my dexterity, there are probably others though, hard to put on and off but once i wear them for a few minutes i can handle parts without any issues
Thanks
Good job buddy.
Thanks.
Very clean work. Looks UNION 😋
Thanks.
Very nice work! Also, we purchased two of the Campark Trail cameras and discovered we had a bad rat problem. With the cameras out each night, we have been able to trace our progress and discovered they were drinking a very small drip from our water heater we didn't know we had. Thanks for your great TH-cams
you need to remove the green screw in a sub panel as its bonding the neutral to the panel itself. You have effectively bonded the ground and neutral at this sub panel by leaving the screw in.
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Trevor, what would you say if you realize there is NO Equipment Ground Conductor coming from main panel to this panel? Respectfully, Kevin
@@KevinCoop1 I am not a licensed electrician so I dont wanna go through a bunch of what if scenarios given the fact that there are a ton of exceptions in the NEC, and each Jurisdiction interprets code (and is on different code revisions) differently.
I just work with electricians so I've picked up a bunch of electical knowledge such as when to bond the neutral and ground and when not to.
@@KevinCoop1 unfortunately I'm gonna say to consult either a local electican, or your local electical inspector. They can answer those kind of specific questions.
Correct Trevor. If that green screw is left in then the neutral and ground are bonded. Code inspectors usually want to see that green screw removed and in you hand.
This is not a code interpretation but a basic requirement for sub panels. Leaving it in can cause current to flow through metal objects if there is a fault.
Beautiful work
Thank you.
Thanks for the advice!
Thank you for commenting David! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Nice Job! The ground bar should be compatible with the panel. No use for using self tapping screws. You mentioned the separation of the grounds and neutrals, should’ve mentioned removal of the bonding screw or not installing it if it was in the box.
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Is there a problem with only loading one of the two phases.
I usually see balanced phases to not overwork the neutral, that neutral looks big enough regardless.
Placing all of the circuits in one side is actually balancing the box due to the ZigZag bus system.
Very well explained I would like to know how I determine which and why breakers will be 20amp and which are 15amp
I explain this in the video. 15 amp breaks are used on 14 gauge wire. 20 amp in 12 gauge wire.
I came back to this video after scratching my head about the prevalent advice in the comments regarding the bonded neutral. Of course the correct knee jerk reaction is that you should never bond neutral in a subpanel, which certainly applies to almost any subpanel. However let's think about rare exceptions. I believe the main panel for this install is in another building, and this mobile home subpanel is fed by the old style three-wire feed. The ground wire seems to enter in separate conduit, I'm going to assume it leads to its own properly installed ground electrode rather than back to the main panel. That violates new building code, but there are millions of outbuildings, garages, etc that were wired this way, it was a standard install a generation ago. Indeed, even the NEC recognize this and consider it a valid exception to the general rule. Let's assume there is no metal pathway for ground current back to the main panel. If so, without the neutral bond, he has a TT earthing system, with a high impedance pathway for ground faults through earth back to the tranformer. As such, even a dead short to ground is not likely to trip a breaker if the neutral is not bonded (not enough current because ground electrode resistance is high). This is why old three wire feeds to outbuildings bond neutral, to give the breaker every chance to trip in case of a ground fault. Risk trumps the parallel path concern. The safer options to avoid bonding would be to either install an EGC back to main panel, or to insert a service entrance GFCI in its own box before those big wires enter the trailer panel. The real lesson should be to get an inspection, even if you think you did it right.
Just FYI, this installation was certified by a Master Electrician. I do not pay attention to the comments because YT is global and there are many different codes in this world. In the US codes vary state to state and even city to city. TH-cam commenters often forget that there is a big world out there and that there own little local way of doing things is not always the way it is done other places. Americans in particular are really bad about thinking Their way, is the ONLY way.
The great pyramids will be standing long after everything built by modern engineers have turned to dust. So who knows the best way to build?🤔🧐
Spelunkered, your comment was spot on! The method of feeding one building from another grounding flip flopped back and forth for several Code cycles. They couldn’t decide which way to do it. It stopped changing in mid 90’s. Currently it is equipment ground in feeder with grounding electrode conductor to grounding electrode, and a main disconnect at or near feeder entrance. Good job stating facts for safety!
@@KevinCoop1 I installed a two circuit feed to a greenhouse last year, with a ground conductor back to the main panel, and I did exactly as you state above. On formal Canadian inspection, the only thing they required me to change was to remove my ground rod. They didn't like the way there were two potential pathways to the house ground, so they wanted the greenhouse ground rod gone to reduce the chance of stray currents. I was a little surprised, mainly because that ground also served as lightning protection.
@@spelunkerd You need to educate your inspector. Ground rods have nothing to do with the ground path he is referring to. The only purpose of ground rods is for lightning and the surges caused by it. In NEC, the ground rod is required to be connected to the ground bar for sub panels in a different building. The last time I looked at Canadian Electrical Code, it is pretty much the same as NEC.
Your a great electrician and teacher. Very simplified; simple to understand all the steps.
very clean install!
Great video. Explained everything I was looking for.
How did you turn power off? Was with the electric company? I was sure you could turn main switch but that the two main lugs would still be hot? Getting ready to do this.
I didn't see that either, how the power was shut off to the box
It has a main breaker on the pole next to the meter. As most mobile homes are required to have.
Gail Taylor is correct
First of all, nice clean job! from the original set up, this is a master-piece. I was wondering on what you do when the wiring to a breaker is short. Can you splice/wire nut an extra length to reach the breaker? ...... reason I ask is because I'm interested in installing an interlock kit in the panel and the spot where the lock gets situated is already occupied by two single pole breakers that will need to be moved further down the panel. I haven't looked yet, but I think those wires may need to be extended. I could go with a transfer switch, but that's another bear.
Yes you can extend wires to make them reach if necessary. You just need to make sure that you make a good solid proper connection when slicing.
Good job 👍🏻
Thank you! Cheers!
Looks clean, organized and legit. Great work!
Thank you for commenting Abdul-Mateen Suddeth! I am so glad the video was helpful.
Excellent job. 😊
Good stuff man
Nice video. Maybe you should change the title to indicate you are adding a subpanel instead of upgrading a main panel.
Thanks. Thanks for the suggestion. It is a valid point. I feel that even though I was technically upgrading a sub-panel (because of my unique situation), in 99.99% of most people's homes, their home breaker box is the main panel and not a sub-panel. The instruction given, apply to both, and I explain the difference in the video, so I feel that it is kind of a mute issue. I will keep your suggestion in mind and if I feel it is necessary to change it in the future, I will.
So in a main panel, the ground and neutral are paired together and all land on the same bus bars right? Whereas on a sub panel, the ground and neutral must be on separate bus bars right?
Yes. First panel the grounded and grounding conductor bars are always connected. All the other panels after are always separated.
Thank you for commenting Jesse Proctor!
With all the breakers on one side dosent that unbalance that panel? I’m asking.
Breaker panels have a staggered buss system, so even though the breakers are all on one side, they are connected to alternate busses, one next to the other.
Take a look at this image to see what I mean
images.thdstatic.com/productImages/69bdc30e-6791-4880-9f03-8ec55fa76609/svn/individual-subpanels-chp24l125r-64_600.jpg
Should u replace all old wires for that new panel?
Also Ox Gard for main wires
No
Let me edit that....Maybe, depending on how old/if wires look torn up (coating scratching off, ripping, breaking apart).
Only if they are damaged
Did you bolt in or fasten in that breaker on the bottom that you sre using as a disconnect for the panel. It must be mechanically secured if it is. If it eas a breaker feeding s branch circuit it eould mot have to be bolted in or decured with an approved clip.
Can you answer me a question? Why is an expert like yourself, that knows how to do it, going around watching TH-cam videos on how to do something you already know how to do? Just curious 🤨
Because I do learn things from these videos and want to go into what was done right or wrong and give an explanation as to why so the guy using these viyas a guide to doing his own work can get a little more information.
@johndavies2949 @johndavies2949 So you do not consider yourself to be an expert then, and admit you are still learning. Okay. Just making sure, because, you came on like you were an expert speaking with authority and not just a learner sharing what you think you know. Glad we cleared that up.
Just FYI. Almost no one reads the comments on a TH-cam video.
Nice looking box!
Does upgrading from older model panel lets say 14 breakers to newer model 20+ breakers, does that upgrade watt maximum allowable (sharing with 2 units/apts)?
This question is a bit too complex to answer on such little information. There are just too many variables to give good advice without an onsite inspection of what you are trying to do.
@@thejungleexplorer well just trying to get a general question, lets say home is 1990's electrical, older model circuit breakers. Does upgrading the hardware to 2010+ models make them more efficient and more sturdy? Does upgrading from from 150 amp to 200 amp panel actually make all attached electrics perform better- i.e. avoiding overcharge?
thanks
@@aleks8730 If I understand you correctly, you are asking about efficiency, as in, would a modern electrical system is more efficient than a 1990s system. I would say that the efficiency improvement would not be significant enough to be measured if all systems were functioning properly. There is not much difference between a 1990s electrical system and a 2022 system. All of the components are essentially manufactured the same.
I am wondering if your reason for asking this question is that you are considering upgrading to a Solar or Wind power system where every single watt counts?
Good video. Next I would like to a subpanel and transfer switch for a generator outside.
This is a project that I have thought about doing when I get a backup generator for my house.
What a nightmare! Thanks for sharing!
My pleasure. Glad you enjoyed it.
nice and clean job. keep up the good work
Thank you for commenting Francisco Escobedo! I am so glad the video was helpful.
very informative tutorial, thank you for taking the time to put this together and share it with us greatly appreciated, thank you and keep up the good work, very neat work, awesome
That is a professional job 👏 👌 well done! Thanks for the information
I have been doing electrical work by myself for just my house.. By the way, hydro company did replace from old style analog meter to new style digital smart meter recently.. I did replace a main breaker last time (I did pull out old style analog hydro meter and I did put it back after replace main breaker).. If I need to replace a main breaker someday(later), Can I work same way? (Even though it did change from old style analog meter to digital smart meter)..Please leave me an answer for me
If I understand you correctly, you are asking about changing out your main disconnect between your meter base on your panel. To do this, you would need to pull the meter out. You would need to contact your power company to do this for you since they are the ones that own the meter.
thanks for the full explanation
Thanks for showing us how to turn off the main power coming into the house. This was really helpful as I'm about to stick a screwdriver into the panel.
No need to be snarky. Every situation is unique There is more than way to do it depending on the situation and how it is set up. In some cases, it might be required to have the electric company pull the meter. Bottom line, if a person is not capable of even turning the power off, they probably should not be replacing their own panel. 🧐
Thanks for the video, hope I didn't miss this in your video..... if the wires are too short, can a splice be added using wire nuts, where the wire nut connections would be contained in the main panel box?
You got to do what you got to do. It is okay to splice to extend the wire if necessary. I try to position the new box in such a way as to not have to splice, but sometimes it is unavoidable.
nicely done. Good job of explaining things. Consider getting a tripod, though!! lol.
Thank you for commenting
Good neat work however, The green screw bonds the metal box to the neutral bar if you don't remove it the neutral and grounds are still bonded in the panel also torque settings are required in most areas of the U.S. "not just as tight as you can get them". Other than that looks like good neat work. We all learn as we go I am not being critical I am just trying to pass on what little I know to a fellow human being.
According to what I have been told a Master electrician, the green bonding screw only needs to be removed if the sub panel is grounded through the main panel. However, this sub panel had its own dedicated ground. A few other licenced electricians have also stated this in the comments.
Thank you for your detailed video sir! 👍. Excellent information.
Kind of odd that the neutral bar is right under the main power leads... could be pretty dangerous if that insulation got nicked. Good video though enjoyed watching 👍
Does the power company need to shut off the power than runs into the box from outside to power the circuit panel?
I’m confused as to how the power is all off when you turn off the main breaker
Each situation will be unique. In my case, I had a main disconnect below the meter base to cut the power. Your situation will be different. Only you can know what is necessary for your situation.
That 2nderry ground bus bar also needs to be from the same panel manufacturer or approved for use in that panel you can't just willy nilley salvage parts to be NEC compliant
Thanks you this info. Please post a link to the code section you are quoting so viewers can read it.
Also, self tappers are a no go. Your ground bus needs to be installed with a tapped mechanical connection.
Very thorough, well explained, easy to understand, an expert sharing his knowledge. Well done.
Awesome video. Clean work. My only suggestion is not to go by wire gauge in the panel to determine your breaker amperage. As a rule, I never go higher than what was there before. Just because the homerun is 12 gauge doesn’t mean the next leg is. If it’s a 15 amp breaker but 12 gauge, I wouldn’t upgrade to a 20 amp I would leave it at 15. I know my house too :)
You should consider both. You're right, but like he pointed out in the video, most of the old breakers were larger than allowed, so wire size was his best guide. Of course, he could have mapped all the circuits and used lower amp breakers if it made sense, too.
This is very true...the first house I ever built in 1976 had some 15 amp circuits for the bed rooms and living room but due to the length of the circuits 12 g wire was run for the home run from the breaker box to the first junction box (to minimize voltage drop) and from there 14 g wire was run to the remaining receptacles so you can't always go by the size of the wire in the panel.
Nice neat job but I hope Jungle Explorer has removed that green bonding screw to keep any return current from flowing on the ground. Return current should only be on the neutral; the ground is only there for faults.
Thank you for commenting Nathan Pautler! I am so glad the video was helpful.
@@ericjorgensen4826 my local inspector made me put a 20 amp breaker because I ran 12ga yellow romex did not make sense to me
How do you shut down power in a house do you have to call the city?
At the meter
@@thejungleexplorer can you do wo notifying the city
@@MexDurango11 Technically, the power company owns the meter, but you own the meter base. Not all power companies are owned by the city and each will have its own recommendation. However, all of them will always recommend that homeowners hire a licensed electrician to do any home electrical work what-so-ever, no matter how small. It will never be anything else. So that is the answer to this and all future questions you may have about what the city recommends.
Me personally, as an American Conservative, I never ask permission to be an independent rugged individualistic American after the example of the Founders of this great Nation. There are risks associated with choosing to live this way, but there was also risks associated with the Founders loading their families into wooden boats to sail across the Atlantic ocean to a new land that would later be called "America! Land of the Free!". In my opinion; It is not a free land anymore if you are not allowed to do things for yourself.
NEC states the main breaker cannot be over 6 feet from floor but box can go all the way to the floor 16 inches from Door and 30 inches from front cover to wall. Box cannot be in a closet or in a bedroom. So if changing a old box that's grandfathered in you have to relocate box and meter and lead in cannot be in a closet or bedroom.😊
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Are those wires coming into your house live? From the power line?
No. The power was turned off during this procedure.
I thought good practice is to try to share the loads between the two bus bars? You have all of your breakers down the left side of the panel, therefore they are all drawing power from the left bus bar and a single feed wire. A better way to do the initial breaker setup would have been to have half of the 15 amp and half of the 20 amp breakers on the right bus bar. Then in the future, if circuits are added, alternate between using the two bus bars. Thanks for posting the video, there are some helpful tip
I think you have a misunderstanding about the construction design of a breaker box. Please study the image on this page amzn.to/3pn46Ci
@@thejungleexplorer Jungle, Yep, my mistake, I am confusing physical placement of breakers and "balancing" the amp load. I understand my error now.
@@thejungleexplorer ok....this panel has a 3 phase load supply?
@@17jflor No. The feeders are your typical 2 hots (split-phase 120v to neutral and 240 to each other) and a neutral.
Bend and insulate mains with tape never leave a wire sticking out straight bare that can contact your skin or hit you in the eye or face. You never know if the wires could be energized if you pull the meter but still don't allow wires to stick straight out towards arms and face
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Everything I have read in the NEC states that the bonding screw has to be removed on a subpanel. I currently doing the same for my mobile home.
That depends on whether they ran a separate ground from the main panel. If they only ran 2 hots and a neutral, you leave the neutrals bonded to the grounds in a sub-panel.
Yes the bond screw needs to be removed on sub panel and a ground conductor has to be ran, you can not run 2 hots and a neutral.
@@thomasmarable6818 you are correct on new work. My only point was on some older homes like mine (1963), before having a separate ground was common (or code), they generally ran only 2 hots and neutral to a sub-panel. In these cases it is correct to have the neutrals/grounds bonded together. In any modern panel you should run a grounding conductor and separate them in the sub.
@@timmedification I guess he didn't need it to run a separate ground bar if he was gonna leave the bonding screw or do you still do Tim?
@@jesusostos3184 not sure I understand your question. Any new work, they need to run 2 hots, 1 neutral, and a ground to the sub-panel, and then ground bus and neutral bus should be separated in the sub-panel. I just had some old work that was grandfathered in. Ground wires were not common in the 60's.
I would have removed the green screw. The green screw would be a misleading a visual indication that you've bonded the neutral, because it's not obvious that you haven't screwed it in. Also did you use a cable connector for the ground wire? Still think it needs protection, might require it by code too, don't remember. Why not just put it through the main hole with your feeders?
That's the bonding screw and he said its a sub panel so it should be removed even where I am from in Jamaica
Thank you for commenting Mr. G!
Is this something a DIY can do if they know basic electrical or would it be wise to get a license electrician to do it I'm just curious I'll probably know the answer anyway
Please go to 0:07 in the video for your answer.
you forgot to ditch the green bonding screw !
Wouldn't he have had to hammer in and screw down the bonding screw for it to have effect here?
Did any of ya'll listen to him? He said this is a sub panel fed of off the main.
Sandman is right. Subpanels should not be bonded. Pull that green screw.
Thank you for commenting Sandman®!
Wait, how do you turn off the power before the main breaker? Call the electric company?
In my case, this was a sub panel, so I had a main disconnect. If you are dealing with a main panel, you will have to have the meter pulled by the power company.
How did you turn off the powered with no main disconnect?
This was a sub-panel. The power was disconnected at the main panel.
Good job
You went up higher why didn’t you put more wire in and strip the wires back so you had longer wires.
Don't quite understand what you mean, but I just went with what I felt was the best and easiest route.
The sub panel power Draw should not exceed the main breaker box current and amp draw.
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what do i do if the main wire coming in the house are to short to raise the breaker box? im raising my laundry room floor and thats where the box is located
You will have to extend the wires
Why unbalanced breaker installation between the two 120 V wires? 😊🇩🇪
It is not unbalanced.
Great job man I enjoyed it. I’m curious if a permit was needed or not since this was probably outside city limits. I appreciate your time 😎👍🤩
Not where I live, but encourage everyone to check their local requirements.
Does code requirer all rooms with a water supply to have gfi breakers or is it just gfi plug ins
GFCI outlets are required within 6 feet of a water source and on the exterior. However, any outlets downstream of a GFCI outlet are also protected, even though they are regular outlets.
So you dont have to have a breaker with gfi pig tail on it for rooms with a water supply in the main box sorta makes more sences to stop it at the source
@@5050johnsmith I would check with your local or state codes just to be sure, but in general, GFI breakers are not mandatory.
@@5050johnsmith you can use gfci outlets that most find more convenient to reset than having to go all the way back to the panell
Gfci is required in the kitchen look up article 208 in the NEC for reqirements on gfi placement
Great video, thanks for sharing !!
Question :
Can I use a 30amp breaker for a craft shop I have w/ wood lathe, soldering station, wood burning station, and then plenty of lights and music ??
You see, i buried a 3/12 weather proof wire out to the shop (70 feet). I wish I had buried 10g wire but I didn't. Anyway, nothing actually pulls many amps w/ the lathe pulling about 9 on start-up and runs on 5 to 7 under load. But, I use bright LED lighting, charge camera batteries, music on the laptop, etc...
I don't know what the lights pull but I have 2 - 2 bulb florecents 4' long, a bright 8"x 8" LED light on a stand and use one of the machines I mentioned at the same time ...... at most.
If this pulls near 20amps I figure I might want to install a 25amp or 30amp breaker.
DO YOU THINK IT COULD BE A PROBLEM ??
Thanks for your generous consideration,
Sincerely .................................
Steph
Unfortunately, it is not code or recommend to put a 30 amp breaker on 12ga wire. The breaker size does not offer more power. The breaker is there to protect the wire from over amperage that can lead to excessive heat and wire deterioration. Adding a 30 amp breaker will not change anything, but it may put your underground wire at risk.
I hope this helps.
Your 12/3 wire will not handle what you want to do. Also if you buried a yellow or white cable underground those cables are not designed to be buried. Only grey cables are designed to be buried. I don't know of any 12/3 cable being rated to be buried.
My reccomendation is if you have 2 extra spaces in your main panel is to install a subpanel in your shop. This would require extra expense but you would then be able to wire outlets as needed along with wiring the lighting separately.
This was considered as subpanel because it had an exterior disconnect?
Because it’s coming off a master panel
Thank you for commenting Oldfatandtired!
Excellent video !!!
that is not a sub panel, the code requires a disconnect near the service entrance, i.e., you meter. Using a "disconnect" there does not make it a main panel. I see people use the term sub panel and usually it is not. IMO...Installing all the breakers on one side essentially is installing all the load on one phase from the meter. Try to balance the load for each phase...Very neat work. Thanks I did learn from this video.
No install the breakers all on on side does not use only one leg. Yes its a leg not a phase. 120/240 is a split phase off of a single phase primary.
No it is sub panel, its being fed from a main disconnect or panel.
@@thomasmarable6818 you are correct there, I had my head up my zxx on that one....
@@thomasmarable6818 the guy installed a "disconnect" after the meter with a breaker which doesnt make this a subfeed panel. IMO. If I were this guy I would have used a MLO panel in the mobile home. There are some rules when it comes to mobile homes that a little different. I would not call this a subfeed based on the info shown in the video.
Thank you for commenting J Stone!
How about some GFCI and AFCI protection.
GFCI outlets are required within 6 feet of a water source or on the exterior of a house. Normal breakers can be replaced with AFCI breakers if desired. Please check with your local and state codes for full compliance, as these are constantly changing.
yeah practicly everything should be protected afci and gfci if you want to upgrade get a plug on neutral panel it makes it easier to install a bunch of afci Breakers
My uncle called the power company to make sure they turned it off service like he requested just in case. They said ..." yep...your good to go."... it wasn't true. He survived...he was lucky. Turn off and unplug electric always. There are exceptions though. Many parts of circuitry store or hold electricity and can discharge. Static, fire, magnets, and stray leftover screws are another thing. A basic test pen light will show current to any novice.
Electricity is like a gun. Always treat it like it is loaded.
Turn power off by calling the electric provider? Or at the meter?
Thanks for commenting
(QUESTION below) I bought an older mobile home... so many issues an inspector would jaw drop.... When they (previous owners) wanted something to add on to they tapped into a kitchen light and overloaded it... so many dumb half as*ed wiring I am surprised the place didn't burn down...
.Then I found outlets/lights powered by 2 separate breakers.. it was SHOCKing to find...
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QUESTION: I have a 200 amp breaker right after the meter and then going to the utility hook up then to the 200 amp breaker panel... Would I need to keep the ground and negative separated ? removing the busbar?
I am not a Master electrician, so take what I say with that in mind.
To the best of my knowledge, if you have a main breaker panel at the service pole, this makes your breaker panel a sub-panel. If your ground is supplied from the main panel at the pole, you need to have a Bonded Neutral and Grounding buss in the subpanel. But if you have provided a dedicated ground to the subpanel, then you need an unbounded ground. At least this what I have been told.
I must of missed it....how did you mount the box after resizing the hole for it?
It was impossible to video due to the confined space. I state this in the video. th-cam.com/video/KTXEMppjk1g/w-d-xo.html
I would have just pulled the paneling off the wall and reframed the new box to fit right and then rewire everything and then put in new paneling, or upgrade the wall to sheetrock.
I may very well do just that at some point.
You didn't tighten the strain strap screws on the bottom for the incoming conductors. I could see the conductors move when you added the second conductor to the 100A breaker.
Thank you for commenting Stephen Dee!
How did you shut off power
In my case I had a main breaker cutoff. In some cases you may need to contact your power company to have the cut the power off.
What is the difference between a pannel and a sub panel
A Main Panel is the first panel in line after the meter box. A Sub panel is a panel that is down stream from the Main Panel.
I thought that upgrade meant how to increase from eg a 100 amp box to a 150 or 200 amp box.
What would that look like I wonder or is it possible?
If you decided to upgrade the panel. And wanted a larger capacity panel. You would also need to upgrade your meter and your service entrance conductors
Thank you for commenting John O'Donovan!
That’s why I usually wear gloves with the fingertips cut off, I get sick of getting jabbed over and over, it gets old fast especially when you work with your hands a lot
That sounds like a good idea.
Not sure what your code is where you are but I noticed that your main service cables are aluminum!? Where is your Noalox antioxidant paste!?
I am always fascinated when experts comment on my DIY video. I personally never watch videos for things I know how to do and it fascinates me when experts watch videos for things they already know how to do. I mean, what could the reason they go around watching videos for things they already know how to do? It is an interesting psychological phenomenon.
Chris Michaud, just so you know, with the newer aluminum conductors, there is no requirement be the NEC, or the manufacturer of the conductors for that product. There are a few manufacturers instructions for very few products that do require it. And the maker of the product is not going to tell you it’s not required.
@@thejungleexplorer Old guys sometimes like to look at videos like this even though they know what they are doing just to kill some time or see how diy guys do things.
Very neat wiring job!
Like another person said, if that ground wire goes to a ground rod that is not also solidly wired to the neutral at the main disconnect, you should leave that green bonding screw in place, otherwise you could have a difference of potential between the ground system at the sub panel and the neutral, which would be dangerous. But this is not the proper way to ground a sub panel.
However if there is a solid metallic connection from the ground wire at your sub panel all the way back to the main disconnect, you should remove the green bonding screw, even if a ground rod is involved along the way. And this is the proper way to ground the sub panel.
@@ericjorgensen4826 Thanks for commenting.
As long be made by electrical codes and be safe to operate is ok for me regardless of beautifulness of the job
Thank you for commenting
How did you turn the power off
At the main breaker
Nice job, but I’m just thinking out loud I personally would balance my loads.
The load is balanced. Breaker panels have a ZigZag bus system.
Thank you for answering this question. I appreciate the help.
Nothng But Gadgets gave the correct answer. If you pay careful attention to the bus plate in the box, you will see that it zigzags back and forth, so that each breaker is on a different bus when installed as you see in the video.
How much does it cost to have something like this done by a professional.
My mother was recently told about $2500 to replace hers in her house, which was built in the late 60s or early 70s.
@@bloodgain Thank you I appreciate the update.
Quite a bit. Price will depend on a lot of factors, but it will not be cheap.
A number of mistakes. Must remove green bonding screw in a sub panel, self tapping screws are not allowed to be used for a grounding bar. Must be tapped in with at least two threads of screw in the metal. If that is not possible you must use a nut and bolt fastener for ground bar. With aluminum wire he should have applied nolux on those wires and also should have checked what the proper torque is for those particular breaker lugs. So you can overtighten or undertighten. Please always consults manufacturers specs on all torque settings. And lastly he should have installed a plastic bushing on the 1 1/4 connector for the SER wire feed.
Thank you for commenting and promoting this video and my channel.
Bushing not required on a cable connector.
Also with todays aluminum conductors nolox not needed or required by NEC
@@thomasmarable6818 Bushings are required by 250.92(B)(4) for bonding at services and by 312.6(C) for conductors 4 AWG or larger. Other references are 342.46, 344.46, 352.46, 445.16, 312.6(C), 430.13, 314.17(D), 314.42, 426.22(C), 300.5(H), and 300.16(B)
@@thomasmarable6818 yes I agree on today’s aluminum conductors no lox is not required or needed because of the mix of alloys in the wire, but this was a replacement of a panel using existing cable. Best practice is to use nolox if it’s an older wire.
you did a great job but you left exposed wire that feed the main breaker
Thank you for commenting paul rodney!
It’s probably safer to label all the wires before taking it apart. I’ve seen other videos and they label everything.
Yes, in a system where the existing wires are labeled, you can label stuff. That was hardly the situation here.
Technically code would call that a Feeder panel (and the conduct from your main breaker panel). You did a good job re-organizing the wire, properly sizing the breaker and correct ground bonding. I wouldnt have resized the panel with a larger one. Also installing panel upside down bit isn't code. I get you were working with the wires but just a note.
😉
No such thing in NEC called Feeder panel.
Hello there, I would like to send you a few pictures of my box in hopes for some advice. I would like to leave me email with you and if you reply I can send you pics of the way they left this box in the house i bought. It cant handle the load and I know it needs to be replaced. We had a few power outages in our area that may have also caused the box to surge and jeopardize the box. But it needs to be replaced. I think that it is the main box and it is not the sub. To whom may be able to help me keep this house going for my kids and I.
Okay, if it is the main box, you will have to have the meter pulled by the city in order to disconnect the power (unless there is the main disconnect somewhere). If you live in a city, the local codes will probably require that the electrical work be done and certified by a licensed electrician before they will reconnect the meter. This is especially true if you have a digital remotely monitored meter. If you live in the county, the codes may be laxer, but this varies greatly from state to state and county to county. I would check with your local codes before attempting anything because you definitely want the electricity disconnected before you try to work on your own box, and if pulling the meter is the only way, that is where the trouble comes in with the local authorities.
So you can turn the panel upside down no problem? 🤔
Gravity does not effect electricity.