thanks. job went smoothly and fast due to you listing required tools. spent longer finding mt disc brake reset kit then wrenching. on my kit the adapter is M prt16 1.25" two pin ford
Oh you have backing plates lol...I'm in Cdn too. Bracket bolts were stuck and heads corroded. Used heat. Got bottom bolt off and beat the bracket up and down to break the top one loose. Replaced bolts and the brackets as well. Fun fun...
8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Just finished this on a 2016 Ford Escape SE 2.0L. Here are some quick notes on my job. On both the driver side and the passenger side the caliper pistons were right hand(clockwise rotation). I used a caliper compression tool I bought off of Amazon. It used adapter plate "M" and the R/H threaded rod and the "T" handle was turned clockwise. Brake shoe holder required a 13mm socket and was torqued to 45 ft. lbs.. Caliper assembly used a 7mm Allen bit and was torqued to 20 ft. lbs. I used an 8mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket and also pulled brake cable grommet out of it's bracket to get more play for removing caliper assembly. Caliper grease was used on all metal to metal contacts on brake shoes and on slide pins. I also used a very light coating of copper anti-seize on flat of hub after it was cleaned of rust and also inside of the new drum. This should keep rust off so every time the wheels are removed rust doesn't throw rotors out of true. I also cleaned rust off of center of wheels because both had to be beaten off the car. And yes, they were aluminum alloy wheels. This was a great video to watch with all the details you need. Great job, thank you so much.
Great video, man! Thank you! Quick question on the 2016 Escape, should i have the ER brake engaged or disengaged when replacing everything? Maybe it doesn't matter? Thanks again! ✌️
I liked the video. Mechanic told my daughter today $500.00 for the rear brake job. I told hell no, not for disc brake. It will be the first time I change brakes on the Escape so I wanted to view a few hints for changing them. except for the new caliber turning in the position, it's just like all my other disc brake jobs. I going to attempt changing them tomorrow. I'll let you know how it worked out. Thanks for the video.
This video just saved me a bunch of money. [Simple math, but I haven't done it in my head. to figure out how much.] Went from a quote of over $300 for a new pads and turned rotors for rear brake job to doing it myself buying new rotors and pads, and the spreader for $300...for all four wheels, not just rear end.
Thank you! Watched this video step by step while changing the rear brakes on our 2016 Escape. Side note....make sure the emergency brake is off while working on the driver side.
I put it C clamp on mine and telling zed right away it wasn’t a normal piston. Thanks so much for showing us this great video you really cleaned it up for your neighbor too. I used to love up north as a kid and man everything was rusted. Always painting and cleaning. I love in the south now for 30+ years, my work beater Volvo wagon has over 600k miles and hardly even rusty at all.
Are you turning it clockwise and pushing in at the same time ? If it won’t go back in while pushing in and turning it has likely unscrewed itself completely inside the piston . You could try pulling the handbrake one or 2 clicks to bring the internal screw mechanism slightly closer to the piston , and then try winding it back in . If it starts moving inward now , release the handbrake again and continue winding it back in until it goes all the way back in .
I’ll be doing my 2013 Escape rear rotors soon as well. I’m wondering if you might still have the link to the special tool for the brake caliper. In all, how long did it take you?
Dude, this video saved me future frustration! I did the front brakes the other day and decided I had enough, putting the rear brakes off for next weekend. I had wondered about the parking brake involvement, so finding this video ensures I will have the piston rewind tool. FWIW, I'm hella glad I live in a dry climate. Those brakes looked nasty. :-) I got a kick out of watching you remove / reinstall the caliper retaining wire. It kicked my butt getting the first one back on. I found that using heavy needle nose pliers helped. Pull the loop that rests on the caliper mount towards you to remove. To reinstall, put the upper loop over the mount, insert both ends into the holes and pull the lower loop over the mount. It makes life easier. :-)
Thank you very much sir! Picked up the brake tool as a loaner from AutoZone, easy peasy. Thank you because without this video I would not have known and been super frustrated!
If you have the electronic parking brake you need to put it into brake maint mode or you won't compress the piston, and then deactivate it before you can drive.
great video.. This is why you watch more then one video. The last guy used a C clam to collapse the pistons which made no sense at all. and I liked the painting the backing plate Im going to start doing that..
This video is so underrated, you should be a college professor the way you break things down in such detail completely dummy proof. There's no way to mess it up or miss a step with how you explain it. You'd be a millionaire if you did different makes and models and different systems on the vehicles the way you did this one. A+ for sure
Well good thing I watched your video would have tried it without the special tool and would have got really pissed when I couldnt push the caliper in.. Thank you for your video!
Hey does the car have to be in a brake maintenance mode? I've seen on the 2017s it can be an issue if it's not in maintenance mode, but can't find anything that says if that applies to the 2015s (or 2013-2016 range)
Pretty good video, though I would recommend not using your electric ratchet to break loose tightened fasteners as this could damage the ratchet. Electric ratchets were designed to undo fasteners that are already loose at much quicker speeds than a regular ratchet, but not to break loose a tight fastener. Just because you were able to in this video, doesnt mean you shouldn't lol. I'd break the fastener loose with a breaker bar first, and then switch to the electric ratchet in order to improve the longevity of it
Did you still have to put the electronic e brake into and then back out of service mode in order to do this? Or is that just for pistons that are not twist-in??????
My emergency brake doesn’t release the rear brakes when I pull my e-brake and release it. I always have to manually help the spring release the pressure. What could be the problem?
the cable may need to be lubricated . spray wd40 or similar on the exposed inner areas of the cable and work the e brake in and out . may take a few squirts and brake pushes to get the lude down into the cable
I watched a video where there was a process to put the e brake in a maintenance mode by pushing down on the enrage button and turning key off then back on
Wash the brake assembly down with brake cleaner before you begin disassembly. Brake dust is hazardous to your health and if your grinding off rust rust and corrosion, wear a mask. The brake cleaner will also make disassembly a little easier.
yes you can get it on amazon . "brake piston retractor" there are different ones , but if you get the universal set it has all the different types for only a few bucks more
Certain rear brake calipers have the parking brake built into them instead of a separate inner drum for the parking brake . On these combined calipers the parking brake works by screwing the caliper piston out as the pads wear down . Unlike a regular piston they need to be pressed in and screwed back in at the same time .
@@fupabox Thanks for the reply.Was hoping to know for sure whether I needed it before I bought one. Guess I'll get one in case. Also,thanks for the video!
Thanks very helpful video. I couldn't find the proper compression tool but was able to do the job with needle nose pliers and a lot of effort, turning the piston in clockwise.
Extremely informative, up to the screw torque. I've seen several videos and this is filling me in the little details as I prepare for my first-time brake job, ended paying around $250 for parts, appropriate tools and lubricants. Tire shop quoted over $400, close to 5 with taxes. Thank you!
@@fupabox Okay. I thought I would have to if I push the piston back in. Someone told me it would damage the brake lines. But if you're saying I don't have to then that works for me. Thanks for all your help. I think I can tackle this, this weekend now
Allen when you compress your piston, you just need to remove your master cylinder cap so the pressure has somewhere to go without trapping all the pressure in the brake line
Caliper mounting bolts on the 2013 and up models its 21 ft-lb! Where did you get the torque specs wrong information cost others money! Guys get the facts before you believe anyone think and have nice day..
I see so many times these TH-camrs do brakes wrong and here is one. ........Always when you push the caliper back in open the bleeder or you likely damage the master cylinder.
I had never learned it that way when I worked in an auto shop many years ago . I tried it out after seeing your comment . I like the bleeder open system you mention much better . I'm using that method from now on. appreciate the info .
Great job thanks for sharing
This is a really good video!!
thanks. job went smoothly and fast due to you listing required tools. spent longer finding mt disc brake reset kit then wrenching. on my kit the adapter is M prt16 1.25" two pin
ford
both side RH thread
Where do you get that special tool, you answered it on the video right after I posted this question. Thanks
Lol . Very welcome
Nice video, very well narrated. Thanks
Oh you have backing plates lol...I'm in Cdn too. Bracket bolts were stuck and heads corroded. Used heat. Got bottom bolt off and beat the bracket up and down to break the top one loose. Replaced bolts and the brackets as well. Fun fun...
Just finished this on a 2016 Ford Escape SE 2.0L. Here are some quick notes on my job. On both the driver side and the passenger side the caliper pistons were right hand(clockwise rotation). I used a caliper compression tool I bought off of Amazon. It used adapter plate "M" and the R/H threaded rod and the "T" handle was turned clockwise. Brake shoe holder required a 13mm socket and was torqued to 45 ft. lbs.. Caliper assembly used a 7mm Allen bit and was torqued to 20 ft. lbs. I used an 8mm socket to remove the brake hose bracket and also pulled brake cable grommet out of it's bracket to get more play for removing caliper assembly. Caliper grease was used on all metal to metal contacts on brake shoes and on slide pins. I also used a very light coating of copper anti-seize on flat of hub after it was cleaned of rust and also inside of the new drum. This should keep rust off so every time the wheels are removed rust doesn't throw rotors out of true. I also cleaned rust off of center of wheels because both had to be beaten off the car. And yes, they were aluminum alloy wheels. This was a great video to watch with all the details you need. Great job, thank you so much.
Great video, man! Thank you!
Quick question on the 2016 Escape, should i have the ER brake engaged or disengaged when replacing everything? Maybe it doesn't matter?
Thanks again! ✌️
Amazing video. Don’t sell yourself short! Keep up the great work.
I liked the video. Mechanic told my daughter today $500.00 for the rear brake job. I told hell no, not for disc brake. It will be the first time I change brakes on the Escape so I wanted to view a few hints for changing them. except for the new caliber turning in the position, it's just like all my other disc brake jobs. I going to attempt changing them tomorrow. I'll let you know how it worked out. Thanks for the video.
This video just saved me a bunch of money. [Simple math, but I haven't done it in my head. to figure out how much.] Went from a quote of over $300 for a new pads and turned rotors for rear brake job to doing it myself buying new rotors and pads, and the spreader for $300...for all four wheels, not just rear end.
It’s ok to hit the rotor on the pad surface area, if your not reusing it
if you are replacing it ..yes
@@fupabox rustbelt! There always seized on.
@@papabits5721 I hear ya . Just looking at them makes em rust here too 🤣
Did you open the reservoir, to make easy to retract the caliper piston back?????
You could use a pair of players to remove that spring, save a lot of time 😅
Thank you 🙏. Unrelated, but from this video I can tell you probably throw down a mean barbecue too.
Challenge accepted :)
I apologize. in an earlier comment, I said that the spring pad was the outside pad. I WAS WRONG. Thanks for a very informative program.
No worries!
Thank you! Watched this video step by step while changing the rear brakes on our 2016 Escape.
Side note....make sure the emergency brake is off while working on the driver side.
Glad it helped!
Finally someone on a 16. Not my exact car, I have awd, but finally. Thinking I should do my own videos for my exact escape.
Weird that there are no escape owners doing vids
Thanks for the video, we managed to set the calipers back without the special tool. But your video helped us figure it out and saved us 500.00
Great to hear!
How u do it without special tool? I have to do Escape brake job soon and don’t want to buy a special tool i might only use once in a great while
Channel locks and a leather glove to keep from damaging the piston
I put it C clamp on mine and telling zed right away it wasn’t a normal piston. Thanks so much for showing us this great video you really cleaned it up for your neighbor too. I used to love up north as a kid and man everything was rusted. Always painting and cleaning. I love in the south now for 30+ years, my work beater Volvo wagon has over 600k miles and hardly even rusty at all.
Wow . 600 k miles . That’s amazing 👍
I hope you reply.. what happens if the piston won’t go back in? It rotates but doesn’t go down?
Are you turning it clockwise and pushing in at the same time ? If it won’t go back in while pushing in and turning it has likely unscrewed itself completely inside the piston . You could try pulling the handbrake one or 2 clicks to bring the internal screw mechanism slightly closer to the piston , and then try winding it back in . If it starts moving inward now , release the handbrake again and continue winding it back in until it goes all the way back in .
This video was very helpful on how to press brake caliper in but I've never heard anyone cry so much about it being hot and sweating.
lol.. It was hot .
Don't use antiseize on the pins it eats the rubber boots use dielectric grease!!
Thank you for this, I was so confused as to why my daughter's rear pistons would not compress
Have that same ratchet & it takes a beating and runs long times !
Great video!
What the part number for the spreader tool
Sorry I missed this question when you posted . It is available on Amazon . Brake pad spreader kit . It will have all the necessary adapters
Great video, but would highly recommend hosing down with brake cleaner before wire brushing and banging on the rotors
your probably right .. good info
I’ll be doing my 2013 Escape rear rotors soon as well. I’m wondering if you might still have the link to the special tool for the brake caliper. In all, how long did it take you?
There’s a special tool for the break calliper?
Dude, this video saved me future frustration! I did the front brakes the other day and decided I had enough, putting the rear brakes off for next weekend. I had wondered about the parking brake involvement, so finding this video ensures I will have the piston rewind tool. FWIW, I'm hella glad I live in a dry climate. Those brakes looked nasty. :-)
I got a kick out of watching you remove / reinstall the caliper retaining wire. It kicked my butt getting the first one back on. I found that using heavy needle nose pliers helped. Pull the loop that rests on the caliper mount towards you to remove. To reinstall, put the upper loop over the mount, insert both ends into the holes and pull the lower loop over the mount. It makes life easier. :-)
Glad it helped .. and great tip . Thanks 🙏
Thank you very much sir! Picked up the brake tool as a loaner from AutoZone, easy peasy. Thank you because without this video I would not have known and been super frustrated!
What is the tool you used instead of a clamp I’m really struggling
If you have the electronic parking brake you need to put it into brake maint mode or you won't compress the piston, and then deactivate it before you can drive.
great video.. This is why you watch more then one video. The last guy used a C clam to collapse the pistons which made no sense at all. and I liked the painting the backing plate Im going to start doing that..
thanks . I appreciate that :)
This video is so underrated, you should be a college professor the way you break things down in such detail completely dummy proof. There's no way to mess it up or miss a step with how you explain it. You'd be a millionaire if you did different makes and models and different systems on the vehicles the way you did this one. A+ for sure
thanks ..really appreciate that :)
I have to do this and replace the rear hub on my dads friend Ford Escape he’s on his way. I’m glad you uploaded this!
Glad I could help :)
You are supposed to spray wd40 to lose the rotor, and you supposed to use brake grease all over the contact point. Other than that is good work.
Excellent job man! Sincerely appreciate the upload.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Well good thing I watched your video would have tried it without the special tool and would have got really pissed when I couldnt push the caliper in.. Thank you for your video!
even worse are new cars with electric parking brake that requires a dealer computer to reset the parking brake after pad replacement .
Just the caliper pins you should use only silicone based grease or paste so as to not damage the rubber boots, besides that good video!
Thanks so much, your video is the only one that helped with the calipers
Glad I could help
Hey does the car have to be in a brake maintenance mode? I've seen on the 2017s it can be an issue if it's not in maintenance mode, but can't find anything that says if that applies to the 2015s (or 2013-2016 range)
Do you have a link to where you bought the piston pusher?
www.amazon.com/OrionMotorTech-24-Piece-Compression-Professional-Automotive/dp/B01FW3U26G/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3BGVKPA5Z4RSY&dchild=1&keywords=brake+piston+caliper+tool&qid=1612620151&sprefix=brake+piston%2Caps%2C226&sr=8-5
Will the cube shaped universal drive tool work?
the cube with the 4 fingers should work ..
Thanks
Pretty good video, though I would recommend not using your electric ratchet to break loose tightened fasteners as this could damage the ratchet. Electric ratchets were designed to undo fasteners that are already loose at much quicker speeds than a regular ratchet, but not to break loose a tight fastener. Just because you were able to in this video, doesnt mean you shouldn't lol. I'd break the fastener loose with a breaker bar first, and then switch to the electric ratchet in order to improve the longevity of it
45 ft-lb is wrong its 129 ft-lb in my 2017 escape caliper mounting brackets. Where did you get the ft-lb torque specifications for your vehicle?
Ford service manual specs used .. You tightened a caliper bolt tighter than a lug nut on a full sized pickup truck ? you need to check your facts
@@fupabox This is speciation torque for year and model escape se 2017 1.5 and this are facts got it from repair manual #haynes
Did you still have to put the electronic e brake into and then back out of service mode in order to do this? Or is that just for pistons that are not twist-in??????
This model has no electronic parking brake so the pad replacement is pretty normal with just winding the piston back in
Merci pour la formation...en ligne
I was able to use needle nose pliers. Just put the caliper on the pad mount and really lean into it while turning to screw the piston back in.
I've also done them with needle nose pliers . Works fine on some , many swearwords and pinched fingers on others .:)
My emergency brake doesn’t release the rear brakes when I pull my e-brake and release it. I always have to manually help the spring release the pressure. What could be the problem?
the cable may need to be lubricated . spray wd40 or similar on the exposed inner areas of the cable and work the e brake in and out . may take a few squirts and brake pushes to get the lude down into the cable
I watched a video where there was a process to put the e brake in a maintenance mode by pushing down on the enrage button and turning key off then back on
You need a new caliper. That spring gets worn out and the rotating pin in the caliper gums up. I had the same problem on mine.
@@anthonymartin1904 I replaced the springs and cleaned up the calipers. It’s been fine since
Don't throw the rotor in the trash, it can be recycled. 😆
Amateur
But you did it good job next time will be easy 😅
Good video im doing this job next saturday on my kids car. Thanks
Good luck!
Wash the brake assembly down with brake cleaner before you begin disassembly. Brake dust is hazardous to your health and if your grinding off rust rust and corrosion, wear a mask. The brake cleaner will also make disassembly a little easier.
They stopped using asbestos in brakes I’m the 90’s. Chill out
What is the name of the tool you can order from Amazon?
yes you can get it on amazon . "brake piston retractor" there are different ones , but if you get the universal set it has all the different types for only a few bucks more
Was the special piston compression tool because it had an electronic emergency brake or do you have to have it for manual too?
Certain rear brake calipers have the parking brake built into them instead of a separate inner drum for the parking brake . On these combined calipers the parking brake works by screwing the caliper piston out as the pads wear down . Unlike a regular piston they need to be pressed in and screwed back in at the same time .
@@fupabox Thanks for the reply.Was hoping to know for sure whether I needed it before I bought one. Guess I'll get one in case. Also,thanks for the video!
Thanks very helpful video. I couldn't find the proper compression tool but was able to do the job with needle nose pliers and a lot of effort, turning the piston in clockwise.
Wow! You don't put anti seize on the slide pins ever!
I use high temp brake grease on the pins. After the wire wheel of course. Lol
How do you prevent the slides from seize? Sure do use anti seize that’s what it for. Lol
Extremely informative, up to the screw torque. I've seen several videos and this is filling me in the little details as I prepare for my first-time brake job, ended paying around $250 for parts, appropriate tools and lubricants. Tire shop quoted over $400, close to 5 with taxes. Thank you!
very welcome
Thank you for the information you rock..
My pleasure!
Great video man! That didn't look very fun in that heat!
Not at all :)
Did you bleed your brakes while doing this
No need to bleed brakes unless the caliper or brake line is removed
@@fupabox Okay. I thought I would have to if I push the piston back in. Someone told me it would damage the brake lines. But if you're saying I don't have to then that works for me. Thanks for all your help. I think I can tackle this, this weekend now
Allen when you compress your piston, you just need to remove your master cylinder cap so the pressure has somewhere to go without trapping all the pressure in the brake line
Thanks great diy
You are so welcome!
What size are the rear rotors for a 1.6 eco boost?
there are different sizes depending on 4wd, tow package etc. if you give your vin to the dealer on the phone they will tell you the sizr
👍👍👍🔥🔥🧃🧃🧃🧋🧋🧋🧋
Great video …….. sound ? Not so much.
Caliper mounting bolts on the 2013 and up models its 21 ft-lb! Where did you get the torque specs wrong information cost others money! Guys get the facts before you believe anyone think and have nice day..
NO...slider pins are 21 ft lbs .
@@fupabox For the slider pins for 2017 Escape se 1.5 yes that torque is correct.. 21 ft lb
I see so many times these TH-camrs do brakes wrong and here is one. ........Always when you push the caliper back in open the bleeder or you likely damage the master cylinder.
I had never learned it that way when I worked in an auto shop many years ago . I tried it out after seeing your comment . I like the bleeder open system you mention much better . I'm using that method from now on. appreciate the info .
@@fupaboxmake sure to top the reservoir off with fluid after install.
@@fupabox "Its the way" don't ask me how I know that.
Talk way too much about unimportant things
You type way too much about unimportant things.
You should make a video! We can always use alternatives.
Great job, thank you for this