I really like how explicitly you explain things, a middle school English teacher says "mobular", love it! I subbed on this one and I will be making one, just ordered the winch. Thank you!
Dude you would be the best middle school English teacher! My last one literally hissed at me one time. She hated me. I’ve always said “if you hate kids don’t be a teacher”
Mannnnn I'm left handed in everything except shooting, bows included. I count it as a blessing up to an extent, makes finding stuff easier, but I can't help but feel my shooting suffers slightly.
I like this a lot! Quick measuring trick. If you move the ruler 1 3/4” past the garden hose (towards the camera) then 24” on the ruler will be in the correct place to mark for a 24” draw length. I am a high school math teacher so I don’t want to discourage people from having fun and doing math but my dad is also a general contractor so I’d feel remiss if I didn’t mention this hack
I know this is an old video, but man I'm so glad you talked about the difference between vertical/horizontal. The difference between the pivot point and the arrow rest/d-loop can cause different "references" as you put it. I think this is why some people pass on the LCA draw board because they aren't able to offset that pivot point. It would be an interesting (at least to me) video on how much this effects the timing. Like if you were to do a video run on a horizontal draw board and then do the same draw on the offset, how much timing would be effected by not using the offset to properly tune for the pivot point. I know it's getting into the minutia of it, but that's where my brain goes. If I'm going to do something, I wan to do it right, not just close enough.
My front peg is about 1 3/4” lower than my hook that pulls the bowstring. I heated up & bent the front peg into a hook and turned it down. In that manner it pulls the bowstring back straight and doesn’t make the bow pull down. I also used an all-thread instead of a winch in this way the bowstring is pulled back straight.
Not only is this a good how to, and just what I was looking for... But it's incredible that you didn't take a breath thru the entire thing. Its like you speak without punctuation. I even turned on captions... The whole video is one sentence. Lol. Subscribed.
Thanks for this video, Ive managed to scramble my own draw board. Took me a while to get all necessary parts but today I tested it and it was great. I was able to correct some timing issues thanks to that. Kudos to you, good sir!
Great video and tutorial. Offsetting the grip post from the winch draw line is a great idea I think because the string loop is definitely on a higher plane than the throat of the grip. Please keep the videos coming.I enjoy them a lot.
Nice article, Thanks! Adding a linear series of 1/4" holes (3 or 4), 1" or 2" apart, inline with the draw path, a couple inches beyond the string at rest, would allow you to insert a temporary holding pin (hose or surgical tube covered 1/4" carriage bolt 5 or 6"lg") to put a little tension on the string, holding the bow in place to free up your hands while you attach the winch hook for a vertical setup.
Ive played around with the position of the bow on my draw board to see if timing changes if the bow is tilted foward, back and level it never changes even purposely torquing in those position which i dont recommend it can derail
I just moved into my first house and I now have a garage to put a work bench in. So I will be making one of these. I was thinking of making my own press, But, after a portable cable press snapped when I was taking the string off to add a twist to it, and my thumb got pulled in between the cam and string. Ripping off about a third of my thumb. Right passed the cuticle. I now have a portable press with a heavy duty climbing strap that is rated for 4,000lbs of breaking strength. With the knot it is still 2,000lbs of breaking strength. Plenty to compress any compound bow. But I want a press that I can attach to my bench when I need to use it and move it when done so I can use the bench. And I'd feel more comfortable and safer using a professional press specifically made for bows. Thanks for doing videos like you do. They are always full of information.
@mattbakerg Hello. Unfortunately, I bought a knockoff of a Bow Medic cable press. I have since gotten a ratchet strap-style press that I did a little modification to. I replaced the seatbelt-style strap that appeared to be flimsy, with a 3,000lbs tubular webbing. Absolutely no way for it to break on me. I have built a workbench in my garage, so I'll be getting a Last Chance EZ green press as soon as I can afford to.
I used a 2X6 with a 1" hardwood dowel pin glued and screwed and for measuring a metal yard stick glued to the 2X6. I did mine that way because it's what I had on hand . Just cost the price of a Harbor Freight winch similar to what your using. Works great
Sorry if I'm late to the party, but I had to make a comment on something...I just had this conversation with a tech at a local shop - and they had no clue of it. The "rule" of deepest part of the grip + 1 3/4" is called the AMO (Archery Manufacturers Organization) Standard. It was established in the late 70's, I believe, by ... you guessed it ... the archery (read "bow") manufacturers. Today, many manufacturers try to f "fudge" their draw lengths in the pursuit of speed. You can call a duck a horse, but it's still a duck! You can call 30" 29.5" ... but it's still 30" - hence the need for the standard. Unfortunately, most bow manufacturers adhere to this very loosely. Years ago, these things seemed to be common knowledge, however it seems nothing is "common knowledge" today. There's a real lack of understanding amongst archers today of where we have come from.
Nice job. I made something similar. Check out a worm gear winch. It has much more mechanical advantage, so you have to screw it more to pull the bow. But it self-locks at each small turn and is micro-adjustable (you can pull the bow back 1/32" or whatever....you aren't limited to clicks). Also, it can't be mistakenly quickly released. You have to unscrew it to let the bow down.
You could probably add furring or quick clamps as stoppers on either side of leg to support the bow depending on which way it prefers to tip, for those that can't or prefer not to balance it while cranking down
I've made a drawboard like yours with a set "wings"( a 3 foot 2x 10 at 90 degrees to the main board to support the bow) When I draw the bow back on the board, it swings too much for my liking. Would it hurt the riser if I installed another 1/2" bolt in front on the grip down lower toward the stabilizer so the bow does not swing as much?
@@averagejackarcherymy bad, my apologies. I am trying to weigh a DIY and I trust you more than the others on accomplishing this. However an LCA draw board is $250, and while your isnt $30, I would "guesstimate" at $100..ish...(without the tool to measure draw weight) of course. Are there disadvatages to a non-pro but mechanically inclined person to not just making, but using the DIY board vs the LCA? I do NOT want to bugger my bow and there are so few shops around since they are all going out of business to fix it if i do blow it up! Thank you in advance. Roger
@@stickboy6772 Oh this can still be made without the scale for well less than $40. Lumber and bolts from hardware store no more than $25-30, and the boat winch is still $30 at Harbor Freight or Amazon.
@@averagejackarcheryunderstand. I am looking at all the materials and tossing ideas now. A vertical board seems better, at least in checking cams and stops and as far as storing and using. I also noticed your warning on derailing so i want to avoid that as well. Trying to think it all through. Should have done this years ago. Thanks for the help...on everything.
Wierd how the draw length is 1 3/4" from the grip, and not just from the grip. But gonna add a measuring tape to my draw board. I use the gummy bracelet to hold my bow on mine. Mine is not MOBULAR though.
How useful is it? Well...trying to do some cheap way without a draw board personaly got 2 of my draw modules broken, and they had to take 2 months or so to come in for the first part, don't really know how long the second part is going to take but the point is, you might not be able to shoot your bow for a while..so don't make the same mistakes I did! Get a draw board that's safe, and secure, and it will prevent any parts being broken from a derailment or a dry fire.
Hey Nate! Super curious but too scared to try it out- what would theoretically happen if you just kept cranking the winch after your cable stops touched and the bow was at full draw? Just made this draw board and it works great!
If you have cable stop, basically nothing. Unless you keep going like the energizer Bunny then you'll break something...limb stops you could hypothetically bend a bolt somewhere. But also super difficult to do.
I read that when calculating draw length you add 1-3/4" to the total. (ATA - Archery Trade Association formerly known as AMO - Archery Manufactures Organization). ATA assists in establishing measurements standards within the archery community. According to ATA... Draw length is the distance at the archer's full draw, from the nocking point on the string to the pivot point of the bow grip plus 1 3/4 inches. Draw Length (DL) from the Pivot Point (PP) shall be designated as DLPP and shall be called TRUE DRAW LENGTH.
@@averagejackarchery I might be confused because I can't see exactly what you're writing on the board. But if the formula Jeff posted is correct, then it looks like you were subtracting 1.75 not adding it. From the position of the tape a 24" draw should have been marked at 25 3/4" on the tape. Looks like you marked a 24" draw at the 22 1/4" line on the tape which would be subtracting the 1 3/4". Not saying "You're wrong man!" LOL just clarifying to avoid anyone from getting confused.
Got it now. Your marks are correct. That formula reads a little confusing. No telling how many draw boards I've used in my 32ish years of bowhunting and I never knew the length was measured 1.75" forward of the grip lol No clue how I missed that one.
@@chrisrosenthal1210 details are easy to miss. I had just watched another video from Average Jack talking about 5 tools every bow hunter needed. I watched yours to see your design. I caught the different dimensions and searched it. Just wanted to pass on the discrepancy. Not trying to be that guy.
I came to see how you made your board but I am stuck trying to understand your thought process. It goes against everything I have ever learned. You have chosen to put the hook from the scale around the string and not the D-Loop this could have huge ramifications. The D-loop must be included because the board draw must be the same as the actual draw. This will affect draw length, timing, Anchor point, and peep location. The longer the shooter likes their D-Loop the bigger the issues. What are your thoughts.
Hey Nate. Just to be clear. You are an English teacher and not a math teacher. The math teacher might start his/her tape measure at 1.75 inches and measure out to the desired length. A science teacher might use a block and tackle (like Jeremy Cheek). I guess a health teacher would emphasize the importance of unsafe practices like placing your hand in the path of the potential (fired) string. A history teacher might introduce who and why the draw length starts at 1.75 inches from the throat of the grip. Now how would a physical education teacher do it? Probably by using those verbs from Bloom's Taxonomy. Also, I've seen others load an arrow with a target at the end in case the bow were to fire, but I guess that really depends on how much yo trust your setup. Thanks for the video. I enjoyed it.
Awesome idea! Have you though about hanging it vertically with the bow facing down string facing up? That should alleviate you having to hold the bow while you manipulate the crank. I'm definitely going to build one of these. Thanks for the videos
Interesting, I hadn't! But it wouldn't offer a great bow poundage reading as gravity will mess with that due the physical weight of the bow. But I like the "tillering tree" style nonetheless.
Good point regarding gravity. You can address that by making sure you zero/power on the gauge before hanging the bow. I've done something similar when just checking peak weight by hand. However, you have to do that every time it powers down. Need to watch the zero any time you work with a scale, so it's just a personal preference on what procedure works better for you.
How good of a bowtech are you i have a question on a bow i use to work on bows up till 2010 but have been out of the loop for a while I just bought a mathews i told them my draw length which is 31.1/4 I have not bought a new bow since the crx I don't fallow all the hype or new bows I have not been a mathews fan but the only bow sold here is guess who I called them at lunch told them my draw was told he has a bow i paid and picked up left home rigged with my sights and rest tied in loop exc exc drew bow and felt short got infront of mirror and its short looked online and model only goes to 30.5 called this morning it is the only one he has he's not ordering until new model and said thank you mote or less for helping him sell all his product no left overs shifty situation but I know and looks like I can twist some cables and possibly get close lengthen the d loop a bit 1200$ bow that don't fit and I sold my crx help.please
That is not a $30 draw board. That is $700 worth of wood in 2021. Save money by using gold instead of wood. Kidding aside, I'm going to make this. Thank you!
English teacher that’s color blind or did someone take your hammer because your wife couldn’t find yours you had to get hers hahah, do you have a video showing your vertical one works I don’t see how that much off set would work because I want to build one 👍✌🏻🇺🇸
I told him someone was going to comment about the hammer 😂. Thanks for letting me win the bet! Yes, it's mine. Haha. We somehow lose every hammer we own..
@@MissConstable1 that’s what happens when the kids get old enough they see what mom and dad are doing then they have to try it but then everyone forget where they put it 🤷🏼♂️
After watching your video, I am preparing to make my draw board (so thanks for the insperation). Do you think it would be an improvement to use a "Heavy Duty Right Angle Mounting Winch Bracket" to mount the winch so the handle is facing up? Here is a link to the bracket I am considering using: www.amazon.com/dp/B08HHH7BFF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details
just LOVE how teachers build & describe things "CLEARLY" (Espceially when you are a fellow left handed bow hunter)
I really like how explicitly you explain things, a middle school English teacher says "mobular", love it! I subbed on this one and I will be making one, just ordered the winch. Thank you!
Dude you would be the best middle school English teacher! My last one literally hissed at me one time. She hated me. I’ve always said “if you hate kids don’t be a teacher”
Mine mocks us and complains when I person forgets their homework
I am just so happy to see a fellow left hander who can explain left handed stuff. LOL! We are elite.
I used to shoot my dad's left handed pearson right handed, does that count as elite? Or more...potato?
Mannnnn I'm left handed in everything except shooting, bows included. I count it as a blessing up to an extent, makes finding stuff easier, but I can't help but feel my shooting suffers slightly.
I like this a lot! Quick measuring trick. If you move the ruler 1 3/4” past the garden hose (towards the camera) then 24” on the ruler will be in the correct place to mark for a 24” draw length. I am a high school math teacher so I don’t want to discourage people from having fun and doing math but my dad is also a general contractor so I’d feel remiss if I didn’t mention this hack
finally. A video that explains draw length
THANK YOU!! I made one.... And it WORKS!!!!!!!!!!!! LOL Your videos are so helpful! Thank you again!!
I know this is an old video, but man I'm so glad you talked about the difference between vertical/horizontal. The difference between the pivot point and the arrow rest/d-loop can cause different "references" as you put it. I think this is why some people pass on the LCA draw board because they aren't able to offset that pivot point. It would be an interesting (at least to me) video on how much this effects the timing. Like if you were to do a video run on a horizontal draw board and then do the same draw on the offset, how much timing would be effected by not using the offset to properly tune for the pivot point.
I know it's getting into the minutia of it, but that's where my brain goes. If I'm going to do something, I wan to do it right, not just close enough.
My front peg is about 1 3/4” lower than my hook that pulls the bowstring. I heated up & bent the front peg into a hook and turned it down. In that manner it pulls the bowstring back straight and doesn’t make the bow pull down. I also used an all-thread instead of a winch in this way the bowstring is pulled back straight.
Not only is this a good how to, and just what I was looking for... But it's incredible that you didn't take a breath thru the entire thing. Its like you speak without punctuation. I even turned on captions... The whole video is one sentence. Lol. Subscribed.
LOL
Thanks for this video, Ive managed to scramble my own draw board. Took me a while to get all necessary parts but today I tested it and it was great. I was able to correct some timing issues thanks to that. Kudos to you, good sir!
Great video! Love how you show the easy and affordable yet effective ways to do things.
Thanks so much!
Thanks bud for referring me this video. I plan on making one tomorrow!
God bless,
James
Great video and tutorial.
Offsetting the grip post from the winch draw line is a great idea I think because the string loop is definitely on a higher plane than the throat of the grip.
Please keep the videos coming.I enjoy them a lot.
Nice article, Thanks! Adding a linear series of 1/4" holes (3 or 4), 1" or 2" apart, inline with the draw path, a couple inches beyond the string at rest, would allow you to insert a temporary holding pin (hose or surgical tube covered 1/4" carriage bolt 5 or 6"lg") to put a little tension on the string, holding the bow in place to free up your hands while you attach the winch hook for a vertical setup.
Thought about building one on an “ironing board”….could be used for setups and basic maintenance via clamp on bow vise.
As usual you do a fantastic job of explaining your subject. Thanks for a very informative video.
Ive played around with the position of the bow on my draw board to see if timing changes if the bow is tilted foward, back and level it never changes even purposely torquing in those position which i dont recommend it can derail
Thanks for the input!!!
I just moved into my first house and I now have a garage to put a work bench in. So I will be making one of these. I was thinking of making my own press, But, after a portable cable press snapped when I was taking the string off to add a twist to it, and my thumb got pulled in between the cam and string. Ripping off about a third of my thumb. Right passed the cuticle. I now have a portable press with a heavy duty climbing strap that is rated for 4,000lbs of breaking strength. With the knot it is still 2,000lbs of breaking strength. Plenty to compress any compound bow. But I want a press that I can attach to my bench when I need to use it and move it when done so I can use the bench. And I'd feel more comfortable and safer using a professional press specifically made for bows. Thanks for doing videos like you do. They are always full of information.
What brand portable press was it?
@mattbakerg Hello. Unfortunately, I bought a knockoff of a Bow Medic cable press. I have since gotten a ratchet strap-style press that I did a little modification to. I replaced the seatbelt-style strap that appeared to be flimsy, with a 3,000lbs tubular webbing. Absolutely no way for it to break on me. I have built a workbench in my garage, so I'll be getting a Last Chance EZ green press as soon as I can afford to.
Red Fish, Blue Fish 😀
Now to go build one!
I used a 2X6 with a 1" hardwood dowel pin glued and screwed and for measuring a metal yard stick glued to the 2X6. I did mine that way because it's what I had on hand . Just cost the price of a Harbor Freight winch similar to what your using. Works great
Sorry if I'm late to the party, but I had to make a comment on something...I just had this conversation with a tech at a local shop - and they had no clue of it.
The "rule" of deepest part of the grip + 1 3/4" is called the AMO (Archery Manufacturers Organization) Standard. It was established in the late 70's, I believe, by ... you guessed it ... the archery (read "bow") manufacturers. Today, many manufacturers try to f
"fudge" their draw lengths in the pursuit of speed. You can call a duck a horse, but it's still a duck! You can call 30" 29.5" ... but it's still 30" - hence the need for the standard. Unfortunately, most bow manufacturers adhere to this very loosely.
Years ago, these things seemed to be common knowledge, however it seems nothing is "common knowledge" today. There's a real lack of understanding amongst archers today of where we have come from.
Nice job. I made something similar.
Check out a worm gear winch. It has much more mechanical advantage, so you have to screw it more to pull the bow. But it self-locks at each small turn and is micro-adjustable (you can pull the bow back 1/32" or whatever....you aren't limited to clicks). Also, it can't be mistakenly quickly released. You have to unscrew it to let the bow down.
Now there's two good reasons for having teachers thank for the video peace out
I watch and like both AjA and RF both have good info...
I think AJA could be RF's son or younger brother both very animated and humorus
I just ordered the scale. Thanks for the link
Thanks. I didn’t want to spend a lot for something I need, but won’t use super often.
Great job explaining this.
You could probably add furring or quick clamps as stoppers on either side of leg to support the bow depending on which way it prefers to tip, for those that can't or prefer not to balance it while cranking down
Fine video! I will be making this!
Have fun!
Another pro with vertical mode is that you can see your cam lean more easily.
Great video! I now have my new project! Glad your ego allows for a pink hammer :)
I love my silver rezult. Thanks for this tutorial!
I have been meaning to do this for a while. Thanks for the kick.
I do like the ideal of using a turnbuckle.
I've made a drawboard like yours with a set "wings"( a 3 foot 2x 10 at 90 degrees to the main board to support the bow) When I draw the bow back on the board, it swings too much for my liking. Would it hurt the riser if I installed another 1/2" bolt in front on the grip down lower toward the stabilizer so the bow does not swing as much?
Thanks for the info on the draw board. I will be making my soon
great video, nice design. just not sure I can do all that for $30 but maybe i missed the caviat.
This video is from February of 2021. Nothing costs what it used to but I haven't changed the title of the video to follow pricing. Lol.
@@averagejackarcherymy bad, my apologies.
I am trying to weigh a DIY and I trust you more than the others on accomplishing this. However an LCA draw board is $250, and while your isnt $30, I would "guesstimate" at $100..ish...(without the tool to measure draw weight) of course.
Are there disadvatages to a non-pro but mechanically inclined person to not just making, but using the DIY board vs the LCA? I do NOT want to bugger my bow and there are so few shops around since they are all going out of business to fix it if i do blow it up!
Thank you in advance.
Roger
@@stickboy6772 Oh this can still be made without the scale for well less than $40. Lumber and bolts from hardware store no more than $25-30, and the boat winch is still $30 at Harbor Freight or Amazon.
@@averagejackarcheryunderstand. I am looking at all the materials and tossing ideas now. A vertical board seems better, at least in checking cams and stops and as far as storing and using. I also noticed your warning on derailing so i want to avoid that as well. Trying to think it all through. Should have done this years ago. Thanks for the help...on everything.
I like this draw board 8' 2x4; a boat winch; eight 8"bolts; 16 washers & nuts; optional scale and a couple of heavy duty hooks?
If you are using and pulling the string from a D Loop, is the draw length measured from the D loop or from the string? Thx
Always measured from the string. One can make a dloop length longer or shorter. The string is affixed to the bow.
Wierd how the draw length is 1 3/4" from the grip, and not just from the grip. But gonna add a measuring tape to my draw board. I use the gummy bracelet to hold my bow on mine. Mine is not MOBULAR though.
Once you measure and calculate 24”, just move the tape so 24 is at 24 and the rest is easy
My bow tilts when drawn back bc the center of the string isn't the grip section that sits on the lag bolt. Does yours do that?
As usual great video
Could this draw scale hold several hundreds of pounds? I know you said it’s not for that but is there a way to make it so it can?
How do you stop a controlled burn. I never did it but I want too
How useful is it? Well...trying to do some cheap way without a draw board personaly got 2 of my draw modules broken, and they had to take 2 months or so to come in for the first part, don't really know how long the second part is going to take but the point is, you might not be able to shoot your bow for a while..so don't make the same mistakes I did! Get a draw board that's safe, and secure, and it will prevent any parts being broken from a derailment or a dry fire.
Hey Nate! Super curious but too scared to try it out- what would theoretically happen if you just kept cranking the winch after your cable stops touched and the bow was at full draw? Just made this draw board and it works great!
If you have cable stop, basically nothing. Unless you keep going like the energizer Bunny then you'll break something...limb stops you could hypothetically bend a bolt somewhere. But also super difficult to do.
Thanks so much Nate!!
I read that when calculating draw length you add 1-3/4" to the total.
(ATA - Archery Trade Association formerly known as AMO - Archery Manufactures Organization).
ATA assists in establishing measurements standards within the archery community.
According to ATA...
Draw length is the distance at the archer's full draw, from the nocking point on the string to the pivot point of the bow grip plus 1 3/4 inches.
Draw Length (DL) from the Pivot Point (PP) shall be designated as DLPP and shall be called TRUE DRAW LENGTH.
Yup. That's why in the video I go over this formula at length. 13:37
@@averagejackarchery I might be confused because I can't see exactly what you're writing on the board. But if the formula Jeff posted is correct, then it looks like you were subtracting 1.75 not adding it. From the position of the tape a 24" draw should have been marked at 25 3/4" on the tape. Looks like you marked a 24" draw at the 22 1/4" line on the tape which would be subtracting the 1 3/4". Not saying "You're wrong man!" LOL just clarifying to avoid anyone from getting confused.
Got it now. Your marks are correct. That formula reads a little confusing. No telling how many draw boards I've used in my 32ish years of bowhunting and I never knew the length was measured 1.75" forward of the grip lol No clue how I missed that one.
@@chrisrosenthal1210 details are easy to miss. I had just watched another video from Average Jack talking about 5 tools every bow hunter needed. I watched yours to see your design. I caught the different dimensions and searched it. Just wanted to pass on the discrepancy. Not trying to be that guy.
I came to see how you made your board but I am stuck trying to understand your thought process. It goes against everything I have ever learned. You have chosen to put the hook from the scale around the string and not the D-Loop this could have huge ramifications. The D-loop must be included because the board draw must be the same as the actual draw. This will affect draw length, timing, Anchor point, and peep location. The longer the shooter likes their D-Loop the bigger the issues. What are your thoughts.
What’s that winch? The link doesn’t work in description.
$25 from harbor freight
Hey Nate. Just to be clear. You are an English teacher and not a math teacher. The math teacher might start his/her tape measure at 1.75 inches and measure out to the desired length. A science teacher might use a block and tackle (like Jeremy Cheek). I guess a health teacher would emphasize the importance of unsafe practices like placing your hand in the path of the potential (fired) string. A history teacher might introduce who and why the draw length starts at 1.75 inches from the throat of the grip. Now how would a physical education teacher do it? Probably by using those verbs from Bloom's Taxonomy. Also, I've seen others load an arrow with a target at the end in case the bow were to fire, but I guess that really depends on how much yo trust your setup. Thanks for the video. I enjoyed it.
I'm glad we can be fellow, large-bodied, teacher friends. :)
Thank you!
Good video but as long as I’ve been shooting bows I don’t like working on them. I’ll break something for sure 😂😂
How do you know when to stop cranking so you don’t over crank it?
When the draw stops make their connection. Don't draw father.
Awesome idea! Have you though about hanging it vertically with the bow facing down string facing up? That should alleviate you having to hold the bow while you manipulate the crank. I'm definitely going to build one of these. Thanks for the videos
Interesting, I hadn't! But it wouldn't offer a great bow poundage reading as gravity will mess with that due the physical weight of the bow. But I like the "tillering tree" style nonetheless.
Good point regarding gravity. You can address that by making sure you zero/power on the gauge before hanging the bow. I've done something similar when just checking peak weight by hand. However, you have to do that every time it powers down. Need to watch the zero any time you work with a scale, so it's just a personal preference on what procedure works better for you.
Thank you sir.
Did you make this for a “friend”??
If the friend buys himself a $20 winch because I don't have a spare. 😂
What wood are you using?
Just cheap pine boards. Nothing fancy.
@averagejackarchery OK, great, thank you. I was worried about warping but if your build holds up then I think I'll make one myself.
How good of a bowtech are you i have a question on a bow i use to work on bows up till 2010 but have been out of the loop for a while I just bought a mathews i told them my draw length which is 31.1/4 I have not bought a new bow since the crx I don't fallow all the hype or new bows I have not been a mathews fan but the only bow sold here is guess who I called them at lunch told them my draw was told he has a bow i paid and picked up left home rigged with my sights and rest tied in loop exc exc drew bow and felt short got infront of mirror and its short looked online and model only goes to 30.5 called this morning it is the only one he has he's not ordering until new model and said thank you mote or less for helping him sell all his product no left overs shifty situation but I know and looks like I can twist some cables and possibly get close lengthen the d loop a bit 1200$ bow that don't fit and I sold my crx help.please
Where did you get that scale for draw weight?
amzn.to/3eQIUSQ Right here!
Didnt know ya was a english teacher. Why dont yall teach cursive anymore?
3:15 in….either you have gigantic hands, or this is a 2 x 6.
Are you sure you're not a school counselor mkay?
That is not a $30 draw board. That is $700 worth of wood in 2021. Save money by using gold instead of wood.
Kidding aside, I'm going to make this. Thank you!
RIP nuts lol
Your lighting looks like my kitchen lighting aka DA WORST but good video anyways I GUESS
This is why we're besties. :)
@@averagejackarchery FOR THE RESTIESSSS
English teacher that’s color blind or did someone take your hammer because your wife couldn’t find yours you had to get hers hahah, do you have a video showing your vertical one works I don’t see how that much off set would work because I want to build one 👍✌🏻🇺🇸
Yes. Couple of videos putting on strings and cables. Use the draw board there. Check them out!
I told him someone was going to comment about the hammer 😂. Thanks for letting me win the bet! Yes, it's mine. Haha. We somehow lose every hammer we own..
@@MissConstable1 that’s what happens when the kids get old enough they see what mom and dad are doing then they have to try it but then everyone forget where they put it 🤷🏼♂️
forget that sorry
Did he say he was a English teacher?
Yup!
Yes, so make sure you use proper grammar or we will get detention.
HES MY ENGLISH TEACHER KEJEJEJEJEJ
Shhh...don't tell my students I'm on TH-cam...
@@averagejackarchery I KNOW YOU’RE ON IT 😎
*mobular* lol
After watching your video, I am preparing to make my draw board (so thanks for the insperation). Do you think it would be an improvement to use a "Heavy Duty Right Angle Mounting Winch Bracket" to mount the winch so the handle is facing up? Here is a link to the bracket I am considering using: www.amazon.com/dp/B08HHH7BFF?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details