Great video! A couple of additions I would offer, based on painful experience. Repacking glands (also called stuffing boxes) is usually down in much more difficult circumstances. If you're in a position where it's difficult to work, it helps to use a DIY collar out of PVC pipe, to use as a tamper. Choose a piece of PVC pipe the same ID as the shaft diameter. Cut a 2 inch piece and cut a 1 or so inch wide slot across it, forming a collar. Push this collar over the shaft and use it as a tamper. Secondly, the packing rings make a better seal if they're cut on the diagonal instead of straight across as it increase the surface area.
Like you said, there are many different configurations. Your video has REALLY helped me to see how it's supposed to be done! The one I need to repack (which has a three bolt flange) was definitely NOT done properly! Thank you so much!!
How old was this boat ? I’m trying to have my 70 sail boat done ! Tahiti ketch boils in 1970 it got a wooden block in the inside where the flange bolts to the wooden block . Thank you finally it’s becoming clear some what needs to be done .
Exactly what I was looking for. My boat is different but all the concepts are there. Do you ever cut the new stripps on an angle (say 45 degrees) so that the two ends overlap?
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 I was thinking that there might be less of a chance of water seapage, and it you cut it too short or too long then when it compresses it will find the correct diameter. I haven't replaced mine yet. Just watching videos and learning. Your video is one of the best.
Great video, mine is not this type, I believe it to have been made by Roy Willerby of Southam and uses a C spanner to adjust. During normal forward operation, how warm is acceptable for the stuffing box to become? The shaft moves freely and after a few hours running I can hold my hand on the stuffing box bot it is quite warm
Heat is investable and difficult to prevent in mechanical work. However anything below 40° I can't see an issue. If you have access to a thermometer check it. Also does the propshaft spin easily by hand? Make sure the engines off when checking
Thanks for showings us how to do it Darren & sharing your tips . When you screw the actual stern tube in & the stuffing box on ,do you use the same grease on the threads or is there a special grease to use ?
If you mean to seal the bearing I use a good modern sealant like CT1. its never failed me Also CT1 can be adhered under water, not that I've had to try that. How you getting on, boats taking shape now.
How do I message you about packing a stern gland on a 1977 moody 39 please? We have had some very questionable advice and would like to ask you your opinion
Hi there. I use that k99 water resistant grease bit it still drips a little. Is that the right kind of grease to use? It's on sabb engine with 2 geaser points so I not very common system I think
K99 is for stern glands. If you still have drips the propeller shaft is likely worn out. I have a video which shows shaft wear. Take a look as you me be due pulling the propshaft next time you dry dock to inspect it.
Should you get no water dripping into the bilge when you've repacked the gland properly? I was told it should drip for cooling purposes, but that really doesn't make sense to me... If it is supposed to drip water, how much should it drip? Thanks in advance.
Hmmm interesting to hear someone suggested dripping is to manage heat. In my opinion you shouldn't get a lot of heat. If the packing is to tight the shaft will generate excessive heat from friction and this will damage the shaft. The packing system is designed to stop water ingress. That's it. So after a cruise if there is no water coming in, the packing seal is doing its job. If you you stop crusing and there is water dripping then this is time to add some grease. If you see the grease increasing into the craft then the packing is to loose. All your hoping to achieve is water management. As in no water. A worn shaft may confuse things as no matter how much grease you apply or how tight the gland is water will still come in.
sorry , can you show where or how to add grease? my assembly was dripping about every 4 seconds, I can not move the shaft by hand ? any thoughts thx again
What to do if the two threads are loose? I have thigtend the two nuts. But the thread itself come loose every time. Should I lock it with loctite? I can’t put a nut on the other side.
Just how loose are we talking? You can use some thin nuts against body. It'll just take some of tue adjustable depth out. . You can also try locktight too
Yes provided you plan it well. Newer shafts and seals will leak very little. Older worn shafts, seals and bearings may allow far more water in as your Woking on it. Ensure there is plenty of grease in the greaser and you have a decent bilge pump. If in doubt seek a professional
If you tapered the ends so they compress flat then I can't see any reason not too. But you may risk a poor seal. However it would he interesting to experiment.
The grease is to stop water. What design of bearing do you have. Is it stepped, so a bearing every so often. This sounds long and the heat build up is something to he aware of. I'd love to see a picture darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 cheers, its a narrow boat from the 70s, cruiser stern. Its well built but it had a seized shaft when I got it, so probably to do with lack of grease down the shaft. Its not stepped no, just brass bearing at each end. The wrong packing may have been in it, so I don't think grease ever got down the shaft. Do you think a shaft like that should always be packed full of grease, or just at the stuffing box end? Graham.
I am familiar with deep water glands. Vetus are very common. They are effectively a lop seal. Vetus used to be a brass unit with an embossed double lip but now make use of common lip seals. The silicone is friendly to the seals material as say a grease would damage the seal medium. On shallow water the deep water seals work but there is a huge risk of damage to the propeller shaft if a fouling happens. The cutlass bearings offer no real shaft support in that situation and i have seen many a bent shaft. Like anything, best make use of equipment in its designed application. As the name suggests "deep water seal" best use in deep water. Canals are not deep.
@@mediahead6799 Each manufacturer has thier own rules so best refer to the manual for your brand of product. However I know the vetus say silicone grease at least once a year.
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Thank you for the great explanation. I'm an inland schipper. And they just don't teach this anymore.
Great video! A couple of additions I would offer, based on painful experience. Repacking glands (also called stuffing boxes) is usually down in much more difficult circumstances. If you're in a position where it's difficult to work, it helps to use a DIY collar out of PVC pipe, to use as a tamper. Choose a piece of PVC pipe the same ID as the shaft diameter. Cut a 2 inch piece and cut a 1 or so inch wide slot across it, forming a collar. Push this collar over the shaft and use it as a tamper. Secondly, the packing rings make a better seal if they're cut on the diagonal instead of straight across as it increase the surface area.
Very good additional information! Thank you!
Best example of this on TH-cam - thank you! 🙏
Like you said, there are many different configurations. Your video has REALLY helped me to see how it's supposed to be done! The one I need to repack (which has a three bolt flange) was definitely NOT done properly! Thank you so much!!
Nice video explaining the process clearly with plenty of helpful tips! :)
Brilliant job thanks for sharing
What a great informative video. Thank you for listing it 🤗
Excellent tuition.
How old was this boat ? I’m trying to have my 70 sail boat done ! Tahiti ketch boils in 1970 it got a wooden block in the inside where the flange bolts to the wooden block . Thank you finally it’s becoming clear some what needs to be done .
This boat wasn't all to old if I recall. Probably the 90s built.
Thank you for telling us the things not to do as well as what to do 😂 exactly what I needed!
Glad its helped.
Super helpful. Thanks for posting that.
Thanks for your appreciation.
Fantastic, thank you!
Another great informative video. Comprehensive and very easy to follow even for me😁
Thank you.
Exactly what I was looking for. My boat is different but all the concepts are there.
Do you ever cut the new stripps on an angle (say 45 degrees) so that the two ends overlap?
Why not. I've never done that. Never been an issue. But if that helps you particular application go for it.
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 I was thinking that there might be less of a chance of water seapage, and it you cut it too short or too long then when it compresses it will find the correct diameter.
I haven't replaced mine yet. Just watching videos and learning. Your video is one of the best.
Excellent video. Thank you.
Wrap plastic bag around exterior of shaft behind the propelor. This will stop the leakage.
Excellent video, clear and concise
Bloody useful this! Thanks Darren.
Great video, mine is not this type, I believe it to have been made by Roy Willerby of Southam and uses a C spanner to adjust. During normal forward operation, how warm is acceptable for the stuffing box to become? The shaft moves freely and after a few hours running I can hold my hand on the stuffing box bot it is quite warm
Heat is investable and difficult to prevent in mechanical work. However anything below 40° I can't see an issue.
If you have access to a thermometer check it. Also does the propshaft spin easily by hand?
Make sure the engines off when checking
Thanks for showings us how to do it Darren & sharing your tips . When you screw the actual stern tube in & the stuffing box on ,do you use the same grease on the threads or is there a special grease to use ?
If you mean to seal the bearing I use a good modern sealant like CT1. its never failed me
Also CT1 can be adhered under water, not that I've had to try that.
How you getting on, boats taking shape now.
Amazing knowledge thank you for sharing
5:40 as the actress said to the Bishop.
How do I message you about packing a stern gland on a 1977 moody 39 please? We have had some very questionable advice and would like to ask you your opinion
darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
Hi D H,
What size packing do you normally use as there are three different sizes in the web site?
Great informative video by the way .
Depends on the shaft size. It can vary a lot
Great informative video thanks . Can you point me in the direction for the link
to buy a withdrawing tool please?
The link is in the title, just click it to reveal the link
Brilliant video
Excellent video! thank you very much!
Hi there. I use that k99 water resistant grease bit it still drips a little. Is that the right kind of grease to use? It's on sabb engine with 2 geaser points so I not very common system I think
K99 is for stern glands. If you still have drips the propeller shaft is likely worn out. I have a video which shows shaft wear.
Take a look as you me be due pulling the propshaft next time you dry dock to inspect it.
Wish I knew this on my old boat I couldn't never stop it dripping more so my ignorance at the that time 🙄
Well we either know something or we don't. Glad this was helpful.
Should you get no water dripping into the bilge when you've repacked the gland properly? I was told it should drip for cooling purposes, but that really doesn't make sense to me... If it is supposed to drip water, how much should it drip? Thanks in advance.
Hmmm interesting to hear someone suggested dripping is to manage heat.
In my opinion you shouldn't get a lot of heat. If the packing is to tight the shaft will generate excessive heat from friction and this will damage the shaft.
The packing system is designed to stop water ingress. That's it. So after a cruise if there is no water coming in, the packing seal is doing its job.
If you you stop crusing and there is water dripping then this is time to add some grease. If you see the grease increasing into the craft then the packing is to loose.
All your hoping to achieve is water management. As in no water. A worn shaft may confuse things as no matter how much grease you apply or how tight the gland is water will still come in.
Any way to work out what size packing to buy before taking everything apart?
When I get a free no I'll find a chart. Otherwise there's a few calculations but that my cause confusion.
Any idea what size shaft you have
Thanks for vid helped me out
Thank you very much.
You are welcome
sorry , can you show where or how to add grease? my assembly was dripping about every 4 seconds, I can not move the shaft by hand ? any thoughts thx again
Can you send me a picture of the stern gland
darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
There should be a grease nipple or a greaser.
Can you send me a picture of the stern gland
darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
There should be a grease nipple or a greaser.
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 yes will do stand by, thanks for the reply
You just know someone is going to only put one piece of gland packing in now
Well I have had an assembly that took 5 rings, and I've seen some that can only take 1 ring.
Great video!👍
What to do if the two threads are loose? I have thigtend the two nuts. But the thread itself come loose every time. Should I lock it with loctite? I can’t put a nut on the other side.
Just how loose are we talking? You can use some thin nuts against body. It'll just take some of tue adjustable depth out. .
You can also try locktight too
excellent video.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Brilliant advice
The question is can you do this in the water ?
Yes provided you plan it well.
Newer shafts and seals will leak very little. Older worn shafts, seals and bearings may allow far more water in as your Woking on it.
Ensure there is plenty of grease in the greaser and you have a decent bilge pump.
If in doubt seek a professional
Thank you so much!
Not sure I'd have the balls to do this in the water..... :)
Best avoid things you are not comfortable with.
8:00 Why can't you just leave the packing as one long piece like that, instead of cutting it up?
If you tapered the ends so they compress flat then I can't see any reason not too. But you may risk a poor seal.
However it would he interesting to experiment.
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Just warn the client first lol!
👍😉
Ive about a 5ft length stern tube, do you think I need to fill it all with grease right down to the outer bearing?
The grease is to stop water.
What design of bearing do you have. Is it stepped, so a bearing every so often. This sounds long and the heat build up is something to he aware of.
I'd love to see a picture
darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 cheers, its a narrow boat from the 70s, cruiser stern. Its well built but it had a seized shaft when I got it, so probably to do with lack of grease down the shaft. Its not stepped no, just brass bearing at each end. The wrong packing may have been in it, so I don't think grease ever got down the shaft. Do you think a shaft like that should always be packed full of grease, or just at the stuffing box end? Graham.
The bearings are self lubricating. The grease is to help water ingress.
So no in normal circumstances.
Super buddy, what do you know about seawater lubricated gland...pls, Ty
I am familiar with deep water glands. Vetus are very common. They are effectively a lop seal. Vetus used to be a brass unit with an embossed double lip but now make use of common lip seals.
The silicone is friendly to the seals material as say a grease would damage the seal medium.
On shallow water the deep water seals work but there is a huge risk of damage to the propeller shaft if a fouling happens. The cutlass bearings offer no real shaft support in that situation and i have seen many a bent shaft.
Like anything, best make use of equipment in its designed application. As the name suggests "deep water seal" best use in deep water. Canals are not deep.
@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 wow thanks...so should I use silicon grease...ie squeeze that in before putting in the sea... with thanks again
@@mediahead6799 Each manufacturer has thier own rules so best refer to the manual for your brand of product. However I know the vetus say silicone grease at least once a year.