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Change the oil regularly and use only mineral. ATF unless the manual states if differently.

Than for that, its appreciated.

Check the Idle speed. It should beas low as designed. To high RPM will cause this.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 hello again, I've checked the PRM160D manual and it recommends approx 1000rpm before moving from forward to reverse, and mine engine ticks over between 800 - 900rpm. Any other recommendations on what to look at next? Regards,

Yes of course, shallow waters allowing crud will just make a grinding paste. Like anything an ideal environment is desired yet the world is anything but. I have seen excessive calcium build up finding its way in and that stuff is evil.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 mine squealed the other day and I wondered if that might be what had happened

@@agfbuilding possibly miss alignment or wear on the bearing surface

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 it only did it for about 30 seconds and has been fine since

The caps/nuts are just a loose thread and bite into the copper. Provided you dont drag the setting screw back you'll be fine. Use a blow torch to reanneal the copper or better still replace them. Check the faces of each surface as this stuff is getting very old. You may have to lap out some pitting. Use a new oil stone very fine if you need. Be sure its flat hence new.

What are the odds that I could drag the set screw as you stated, assuming I'm just setting the adjuster nut cap to 50psi? Is this a real risk, and thus proper protocol to recheck all of the pop settings after the adjuster nut cap has been torqued down?

@@strongmonty Its a screw. Probably unlikely but vey possible.

Its a CAV pump. Just loosen the body nuts to the engine and slaken the injection hoses and twist it one way or another advance or retard its timing. There is more to it but thats basically it.

Loud clunking, depends how loud. If the drive plate is trashed and someone over advanced the idle then the box will thump into gear. The idle needs to be low for a smooth engagement. That being said if the cone has any burrs itll bind a bit.

Was manufactured by the Hayden's I believe. It allowed cleaning and access into the wadding.

What engine do you have? Some can use. HVO is now quite handy to try!

Agreed.

If I was called to inspect them I would drain the fluid (if any) and check inside with an endoscope. Try to gauge the state of play inside each box. If they are not on the engine then check the seals isnt hard. If they are crispy then definitely change them. All depends whats found. Do they spin by hand, engage each direction and see if there is any binding. Hope that helps a little

Thankyou there still on the motor I just got them I was planning on rebuilding the motors this helps me out it’s really hard to find any information on these transmissions I have a original service manual for them but that don’t cover sitting in a barn for 20 plus years and I had no knowledge of inner working until I found your video many thanks for sharing your experience and knowledge I can use all the help I can get this is my first complete boat rebuild it’s a 79 pen yan 24 footer and the only thing it has going for it is a fiberglass hull

@@patrickg.6438 bear in mind what ever transmission you use will define the physical installation. Changing that later to suit another brand will cause you a head ache. Be cautious and work with equipment you can get parts support easily. Thats my advice anyway.

What would you suggest I do should I sell them and buy new to me ? the motor in it now is a Chrysler 240 that was run in salt water completely ruined the Chevy 350 vortecs multi port fuel injection I have now are 89 threw 94 models can’t find any more info than that on them but they are very buildable motors I have to gut the hole boat and was going to do some reinforcement with carbon fiber so mounting should not be a problem I got this to have a project with my grandkids who lost both mother and father a few years back and would like to pass it down to them what would you suggest I do and how would I reseal the shaft where it passes threw the hull for the prop and I was thinking about saving up to buy a Sharrow prop do you have any comments on that type of prop

Yes full of ATF looks like it was pored just today and looks brand new inside we are going to remove them this weekend sorry had to wait for the kids to help all or none do you have a P account would like to buy you a drink

Yes my father had the same. Swore by it.

No not yet as far as I am aware.

Lol

Exciting stuff then

Yup. Thanks.

What do you mean. As in an alternative engine system?

He said they are throw away gear boxes. What is the drop in replacement

@@andrewdoble7973 I see. Nothing is exact but the PRM 120 / 125 use the same mount registration pattern. You have to realign the engine. Technodrive again use the same mount registration pattern. Again a slight remount and alignment. The PRM Hydraulic box the 150 fits but again you'll have to realign the engine and add an oil cooler for this. This is an example and for guidance only.

That is a difficult question to ask. My advice is join BMC engines page on Facebook as there are so many variables to this.

That can vary immensely, what type of craft is it in, what sort of waters do you work, weight of craft, hull type, gearbox ratio and propeller dimensions, shaft length.

Dzień dobry . Kupiłem jednostkę pływającą Joda Tur 24 z silnikiem DMC 1800 m3.Nie mogę znaleźć żadnych informacji na temat tego silnika .Najwięcej dowiedziałem się na filmach z TH-cam.Znajomi mają silniki Yanmar lub Volvo Penta.Ja jestem z Polski i tu raczej nie spotyka się takich silników BMC Commander.Nie jestem w stanie odpowiedzieć na Pana pytanie bo nie znam się na tym.Prosze podać mi ile może palić taki silnik 1800 m3 w łódce 24 fit. - .7.5 mb waga tej łodzi to 2000 kg.Pozdrawiam.

You can make anything fit anything. But with that much HP it provably try to spit it off the back. Always best check the manual for the Max rated input power for any gearbox.

Please explain further. What bolts fell out, were from? The alignment will most likely need to be checked

You cant. The output flange is part of the shaft and held in place by the rear bearing. You have to split it. Check the exploded diagram in the manual.

Glad it helped. Very repairable boxes good luck

Hello for old blighty, not sure I understand you. There isnt an injection pump here. Only injectors and my bench top test rig. Have I missed something?

That is a hydraulic puller, the bearing is pressed into the brass cast body. To remove it you need to press it in order to not damage the bearing. Taking a press into the field is unrealistic so I have the hydraulic puller and I make that into a mini press.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Great. Thank you!

Hmmmmm, good question. Id say unlikely but what choice do you have. If you take the studs out can you not turn the whole body clockwise, with some lubricant of penetrant oil? These are not modern engines, so not that long an injector. Unless its rusted in. Feel free to send me some images of them. Ill see if i can think of a solution. darrencrouch@dhcrouchmarineltd.co.uk Watsapp 07809607630

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Email sent. Thank you.

No, the selection fork needs the float shimmed. It wont help the clutch bite more. The centrifugal forces of the shaft spin will keep the clutch in drive engaged.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Sorry to be pressing you on this but an online manual has this: Clutch control unit adjustment: with the operating lever ref. 18 in neutral position, turn by hand the output flange ref. 26 and, at the same time, screw the adjusting screw ref. 28 with an alien wrench (4 mm) until the output flange rotation gets hard on a small arc only. Unscrew of 3/4 of turn the adjusting screw and fix it by locking the nut ref. 57.

Yes thats the float depth of the fork. To much in and it binds on the clutch gear. Shimming just keeps it from fowling and jamming on the clutch. So in a sense it is clutch adjustment but not in how the clutch "bites" rather the selection of the clutch cone. Hope that makes sense

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 👍

The shaft has a ledge that dictates positioning. Once the bearings are against this ledge / shoulder the rest makes sense.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 Oh perfect. Thanks a bunch. Getting ready to do a rebuild on this same pump and this has been helpful.

Thanks for your appreciation.

The only way to answer that is to ask what sail drive do you have. Propeller size will also make a difference.

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 aaa.. ok I dont have jet.. im calculating to convert to electric motor.. motors that have 16-20k rpm.. which is 5x more rpm than diesel...im studying..before invest.

If I recall correctly it is a pain and yes you have to re-align everything and pull engine back of shaft forward.

Have you got the workshop manual, always refer to the manual for the tolerances and torque sequences.

Have you got the workshop manual, always refer to the manual for the tolerances and torque sequences.

Which box is it?

@@dhcrouchmarineltd3049 same as this one the LH150

@@RoamingFibonacci if the engine stalls while going into neutral you probably have a stuck ahead cone clutch.

It had forward drive and neutral l, revers turns very weak like its slipping, it turns a bit gives up a bit... better on lower revs, it does turn a bit but weak in reverse

It has forward and neutral, Reverse is just slipping and weak