Boom right off the bat, check compression. Exactly what i do with every used engine i buy. I got a 1987 ECHO 330EVL from a garage sale for 10 bucks! They said it didn't run and they buy a new saw when one stops working. They were selling like 4 saws. Took the ECHO home, and it started off starting fluid. Then i adjusted the carb fuel mixture screws and the idle, and now it starts on the first or second pull from cold start! All it needs now is a bar and chain! Hearing "check compression" right at the beginning and i am already happy! I am now going to finish watching. I just wanted to put this comment out there. Awesome!!!
Another great tip Donny. This is a very common problem with owners not knowing how to mix two stroke fuel. I always advise them to buy a mixing bottle and use quality oil.
Very helpful. For total novices like myself, I would have liked to also see how to check the backend of the piston and its pressure. With that said, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Your videos are well done. Thanks again!
A trick i do as a quick check. On some saws the exhaust side of cylinder can be seen through the sparkplug hole. Remove sparkplug, turn piston down to exhaust port, shine small lite inside cylinder. On lots of saws you can see if there is scoring on exhaust side of cylinder. Even some scoring on cylinder is usually a sign of more scoring on piston. Then remove muffler to get the true nature of cylinder . Great tip thanks Don .
Yep, pull the plug, easier to get an idea.. Plus, depending on saw, you may break the muffler stud.. Not a good thing to do on something that isn't yours lol
Got compression ? I recently picked up a project saw. A 1958 Homelite Zip saw. Its supposed to be 4.61ci. I think someone at some point bored it out. As you know the first thing you should always do is check compression. I tried to pull the cord and it wouldn't budge. I first thought oh this is seized. The guy said pull harder. Sure enough holy cow man! I'm going to have to add a decompression valve to this thing! It came with a 30 inch bar. Can't wait to get it running again and eventually restored. Thanks for the video.
that type of scoring at the exhaust Port is from not letting the Saw come up to temperature at idle ,it's from reving it out immediately after start-up and happens to all brand new saws that are cold started and reved immediately.....let your stuff warm up and this won't happen.....great video by the way
make sure to use air-cooled 2cycle oil. its made for the high heat produced at the exhaust side of the cylinder. marine oil where there is water cooling wont hold up and will ruin a saw in a hurry
I always run more oil than factory recommendation in order to get some life out of the saw. The EPA recommendations are why we are at 50:1 fuel mix. I will run 40:1 or 32:1 mix and tune the carb to run that.
larry munday exactly 100% correct. We ran what manufacture suggested of 50:1. Couldn’t figure out why we kill 1 blower, line trimmer, hedge trimmer and saw EVERY YEAR. Went to 40:1 and now it’s stolen before it dies. You cannot kill them at 40:1 or 32:1. Never seen a carbon fouled spark plug either. It does smoke just a hair more...
Intake boots and any sealing interfaces beyond the carburetor should be checked. I had a brand new Echo CS600P which developed a stupid sealing problem because the carb screws into plastic. Basically the plastic stripped, and allowed more air. I was able to repair it with genuine CS8000 parts though and actually improved the mounting.
Great vid! I brought a beat up ms 180. Took it all apart freed the stuck rings and sanded the scored piston, cylinder and rings. Put it all back together and doesn’t leak under pressure and vacuum and the compression is 127psi which I thought was really good for such a bad appearance initially! It does start no worries but only ran it for 60 seconds or so just to try it. Seemed good! I want to learn carb tuning so got an aftermarket adjustable carb and wondering with the above info, should I be able to do so with this saw? Or could I run into problems with that saw? Can you pleaseeeeee do a stihl chainsaw tuning tutorial from the very start with where to start the screws, using a tach and your process? That would be amazing. Thanks for your amazing content!!
Wish I would've known this before I bought a carberator and fuel system rebuild kit. Installed everything and it wouldn't run right. Broke down and brought it to a small engine shop and the 1st thing he did is take the exhaust off and show me the piston scouring. Said unless I had a parts saw with a good piston just buy another saw. Lesson learned!
The other thing that can cause piston scoring is running the saw too lean. Running lean means more RPM and more power, but lt means shorter engine life. One time I was cutting firewood on a dry logging road, lot's of dust . Didn't take long and the saw seized. .
Great advice as always! Looks like perhaps an overheating issue as most of the damage occurred on the pto side away from the flywheel/fan. I would not think a pro saw would have the fuel mixed wrong. Working the saw hard immediately after startup in my experience usually shows a different wear pattern than this one which is mostly confined to the hot side of the cylinder, Thanks for giving everyone a good heads up again. Great video, keep it up!
Where do u fill in the oil for the crankcase is it the same as bar oil I'm 82 years old and my saw will not turn over I like to cut my own fire wood thank u you tube
Eric Hermann you just mix the oil in the gas 2 cycle. I know you already know that. And bar oil in the oil side and that’s it. Unless you have some sort of 4 stroke saw
I've seen them scored more when people mix the fuel with ethanol in the gas. That booze makes the saw run hotter even if you have an adjustable carb and richen it a bit. I would say to mix at 40:1 if you cannot get ethanol free or use something like trufuel.
wow - i looked at the echo chainsaw that i just bought and everything is just super smooth inside :o (has 2 piston rings also) it might have some fuel or oil leak issue tho... because its just oily everywhere(altho the cap was also open a bit) and i think it smelled like petrol when it had a pool under its right side... and the front suspension dampers were just broken/loose... and 1 without a cap even...
Hold the saw by the recoil handle and do the rope drop method. If the weight of the saw does not start dropping, your good. If it drops slowly and reaches bottom within a minute suspect suspect scoring piston and bad rings. Do this while run hot and the weight of the saw just drops. Also depending on the bar. You may want to remove the bar and chain to do this test.
It'd be nice because as a man the condition of the taco is extremely important while shopping, you dont want to get stuck with a roast beef sandwich even though the complexion and measurements checked out.
So, perhaps a good idea to bring a compression gauge too as if a seller will not let you disassemble removing a spark plug and doing a compression check can show this issue too - right?
Another thing to check quite easily... Hold the chainsaw in all positions (horizontal both ways and even just let it hang from the handle) while running. If it revs up, there might be issues with the bearing seals inside the crankcase. Also quite an expensive repair.... Not chainsaw related; my FS-400 bushwacker has compression issues. Turns out it wasn't on the outlet side which was scored but the carburetor side. But that's not easily checked while trying to make a deal with somebody.
I like the 361 but think the ms360 is a much better engineered saw. I do not like the tank vent on the side of the tank. It forces me to under fill the gas tank, otherwise the vent will not work correctly. I also do not like the half choke position on the control lever. It is not a positive half choke position. I also like the air filter cover on the 360 over that on the 361. What I really like is my deco valve on the 360 stays in until the saw rolls over or runs. I have replaced the deco valve on the 361 with a Husqvarna valve but it still pops out much to early. As for performance, they are about equal, although the 361 seems to be a little more peppier. Regardless they are about equal in big wood.
Great video, thank you for the heads up on what to look for. Can a chain saw with a scored cylinder and piston be rebuilt? Does stilh or huskavarna use a steel cylinder sleeve?
After using 40:1 as fuel/oil premix ratio, our company has NEVER failed an engine and scored cylinders since. We used to score cylinders every year on equipment at 50:1 ratio. We’ve never fouled a plug either at 40:1.
Taking the muffler off might not be OK for owners, how reasonable it might be because you might damage the threads, break a bolt etc. I'd recommend buying one of those small USB inspection camera's that you hook up to your phone, and look inside the combustion chamber trough the spark plug port.
If a seller won't allow you to remove the muffler, sometimes the best thing to do is simply walk away at that moment..... In many cases, they will change their mind, or it if they don't, it may mean that they are hiding something, so either way, is not a bad thing. Also, this gives wiggle room for negotiations.
If you rebuild that 361 be careful because an am piston can hit the counterweights. I built a huztl 361 this summer and it ran great for 7 tanks and then it ate the piston. It busted off the skirt on both sides and they ended up in the crankcase and bent the rod. I had to replace the cylinder, piston, crank and both seals plus a few other parts. When I rebuilt it I coated the counter weights with assembly lube and put the piston , cylinder on loose and rolled the crank around four or five times. Wherever I had assembly lube on the piston I received it with my Dremel too. After four or five fittings I had sufficient clearance between the piston and the counterweight. I also trimmed the skirt length on the piston so they were identical in length. There was several thousandths difference when I started this process. I now have 7 tanks on the new cylinder and it is no longer kissing the crank.
Yeah I made that mistake. MS290, I thought was a excellent deal. Wellllll. Piston was scarred so bad. So now, i have a bucket of clean parts for sale lol
Thanks for the great lesson , I just bought a new craftsman 18 in 42 cc. ,The clutch took a dump in a 1/4 tank of fuel cutting dry cotton wood I took it back and got my refund
Great videos watching you all they way from Australia, chainsaws are a big hobby of mine, I've found a big issue with cracked fuel tanks & dodgy repairs
It's surprisingly easy to rebuild them. I had a Poulan that was condemned by a Certified Repair Shop as "not worth fixing." I bought the rebuild kit for $60 and it runs better now than when it was new out of the box. I still hate Poulan, but it was a gift, so...
F De Mascio , I once bought just a fuel line for $25. A rebuild kit is so cheap I might just rebuild it every year. I rebuilt my big Johnsered too. I use them a lot so this is great.
Some times the scoring adds to the drag in the cylinder. I never judge a chain saw by compression. I find the number one reason for damage on a chainsaw us lack of oil in the fuel. By running it with lack of oil it boosts power which burns the piston and scores the cylinder. Sometimes you can take out the plug and see down the cylinder with a bright pen light or bore sight light. I actually carry a bore sight on light with me in my glove box. I have had several guys give me chainsaws they just dont want to mess with simply because they won't start. A carb rebuild kit later and they are ready to go again. Good tips for guys looking for deals. Generally, if the saw is really dirty and abused looking, it's not worth buying. The chain and bar is usually trash.
I "bought" a mid 90s poulan six/seven some odd years ago for a six pack of beer. Added a carb kit and it has run flawlessly since. Runs all day without so much as a hiccup. Almost always second pull and she fires up, cold or hot. Luck of the draw I guess. Nice video, keep it up!
I thought you were going to look at the air filter! One of the best indicators for how a saw has been treated is the air filter. Good saws have better air filters which can be maintained, but many cheap saws just have a piece of sponge. If the filter has a lot of oil on it, they've been mixing the fuel too rich. Often this oil and dirt will then work its way past the sponge and cause exactly that kind of scoring. If the saw hasn't been maintained well, the air filter will be blocked up with dirt. If it has run too hot, maybe due to not being properly sharpened, then you will see scorched sawdust built up on the filter. Conversely, if the air filter is clean, the saw's either been well looked after or it has hardly been used.
That’s a great thing to check... same idea... I was going to buy a conversion van from a used dealer... he said the engine had no leaks and he started it up... I looked at the engine while running and he shut it off... all looked good... but I asked him to let it keep running so it could warm up... he obliged... and after about 10-15 minutes it started leaking anti-freeze.... if I hadn’t let it run I would have noticed too late! I moved on...
Hi Dony, I have stihl ms261 ( non M-tronic) 2018 model and I heard that the models after 2014 have a rev limiter. Is that true and the ignition module have this function?
Sir would you show on one of your videos a Force Tec cylinder kit for a stihl 026,260 chainsaw for 2020 or 21.If that model is not available show a Force Tec cylinder kit for another pro Stihl chainsaw. Thanks kindly for your time Thanks kindly
Basically don't buy a used chainsaw unless its dirt dirt cheap...buy new (even if you have to compromise on size to afford) get the warranties, the "brand new" feel and peace of mind
Hey Donny you did a video on the 170 for the upgrade for the bar and chain can you shoot me the part numbers that you used I meant cuz the only ones that I can get is going to a bigger clutch a bigger bar.325.50
Love your videos, they make me want to drive to Canada to get you to work on my chainsaws. But I do have a question; you say you always mix your fuel with a little extra oil (like 45:1 instead of 50:1). Does the same hold true for Tru-fuel which I’ve seen you recommend? As in, would you buy the 50:1 recommended or go down to 40:1 instead of 50:1?
I see saws for sale on-line all the time with only 2 or 3 tanks of gas through it. The bar will tell the real amount of use. With 2 tanks the bar will still be brand new. I see them with a half worn out bar.
I see a lot here that are new or practically new. We have had a hurricane hit us 3 of the past 4 years. People buy the saws and then never have a tree come down from the storm and instead of keeping the saw they sell them. They are most the time homeowner Husqvarna or Echo saws they bought from Home Depot or Lowes but there is a lot of them. I have bought a couple saws recently that the homeowner used to heat with wood and moved where they don't have a fireplace or wood stove anymore so don't need their saw and really probably had to much saw for what they were doing in the first place. My 372xp and MS440 were mint and I paid less for the pair then I would have paid for one of them new.
That is great info. I’m with the guy that said you might get push back if you asked to disassemble the seller’s saw. If so, just id just walk away from it. Oh-One thing i noticed-the cylinder appeared to be cast iron (the fins looked rusty). If so, Thats some quality built equipment.
THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO CHECK WHEN BUYING A USED CHAINSAW!
You make being a small engine mechanic look so cool and intriguing it’s insane
Good simple and straight forward advice for anyone wanting to purchase. Thumbs up!
Boom right off the bat, check compression. Exactly what i do with every used engine i buy. I got a 1987 ECHO 330EVL from a garage sale for 10 bucks! They said it didn't run and they buy a new saw when one stops working. They were selling like 4 saws. Took the ECHO home, and it started off starting fluid. Then i adjusted the carb fuel mixture screws and the idle, and now it starts on the first or second pull from cold start! All it needs now is a bar and chain! Hearing "check compression" right at the beginning and i am already happy! I am now going to finish watching. I just wanted to put this comment out there. Awesome!!!
Brand new, only run once! (with straight gas so the top end is destroyed) Looks immaculate! (from the outside)
Another great tip Donny. This is a very common problem with owners not knowing how to mix two stroke fuel. I always advise them to buy a mixing bottle and use quality oil.
Also caused by high revving a cold engine (not letting it warm up first)
100ml to 5L is hardly rocket science
This might be your best tip ever, Don. Thanks, man...you've saved a lot of people a lot of money with this video.
As a 20+ year Stihl mechanic,this guy is right on!!!This will show up on HOT start before cold start,so beware!
Very helpful. For total novices like myself, I would have liked to also see how to check the backend of the piston and its pressure. With that said, thank you for sharing your knowledge. Your videos are well done. Thanks again!
Dony: Your videos are the best as far as video quality, verbal explanation and thoroughness of procedures. Congratulations!
A trick i do as a quick check. On some saws the exhaust side of cylinder can be seen through the sparkplug hole. Remove sparkplug, turn piston down to exhaust port, shine small lite inside cylinder. On lots of saws you can see if there is scoring on exhaust side of cylinder. Even some scoring on cylinder is usually a sign of more scoring on piston. Then remove muffler to get the true nature of cylinder . Great tip thanks Don .
great tip!
Yep, pull the plug, easier to get an idea.. Plus, depending on saw, you may break the muffler stud.. Not a good thing to do on something that isn't yours lol
i have a 88 cc husky and runs fine looking like that . also had a couple of other bigger saws that were scored but still ran okay .
Got compression ?
I recently picked up a project saw.
A 1958 Homelite Zip saw.
Its supposed to be 4.61ci.
I think someone at some point bored it out.
As you know the first thing you should always do is check compression.
I tried to pull the cord and it wouldn't budge.
I first thought oh this is seized.
The guy said pull harder.
Sure enough holy cow man!
I'm going to have to add a decompression valve to this thing!
It came with a 30 inch bar.
Can't wait to get it running again and eventually restored.
Thanks for the video.
that type of scoring at the exhaust Port is from not letting the Saw come up to temperature at idle ,it's from reving it out immediately after start-up and happens to all brand new saws that are cold started and reved immediately.....let your stuff warm up and this won't happen.....great video by the way
That'll do it!
The new Stihl ms500I R manual says to run three full tanks of fuel through the saw at idle before putting it to use.
I just got a nice 038 magnum free from my uncles family when he passed away,it’s in awesome shape and runs great, nice complement to my old 066 Stihl
make sure to use air-cooled 2cycle oil. its made for the high heat produced at the exhaust side of the cylinder. marine oil where there is water cooling wont hold up and will ruin a saw in a hurry
Marine two stroke oil is usually dyed blue and air-cooled two stroke red here in Europe.
This guy is Canadian GOLD!!
Thank Dony for all your excellent posts💪🧑👍
Excellent video. Clear, concise and GREAT advice. Simple enough for those entering the chainsaw world, or someone wishing to upgrade.
Great advice Don! Hail! to the King of small engines! We're not worthy! Thanks for the great upload!
I always run more oil than factory recommendation in order to get some life out of the saw. The EPA recommendations are why we are at 50:1 fuel mix. I will run 40:1 or 32:1 mix and tune the carb to run that.
larry munday exactly 100% correct. We ran what manufacture suggested of 50:1. Couldn’t figure out why we kill 1 blower, line trimmer, hedge trimmer and saw EVERY YEAR. Went to 40:1 and now it’s stolen before it dies. You cannot kill them at 40:1 or 32:1. Never seen a carbon fouled spark plug either. It does smoke just a hair more...
I like using a little extra oil too. Just try not to get too much though.....junks things up a bit
@@garrettstevensen2467 never knew you could run your 2 strokes with more oil, thanks for that advise.
Nothing beats the older stihl saws, if you can get it cheap a rebuild won't be so bad, plus no emission and laptop
As always quality videos and simple explanations of small motor repair. Thanks for the valuable info .
Intake boots and any sealing interfaces beyond the carburetor should be checked. I had a brand new Echo CS600P which developed a stupid sealing problem because the carb screws into plastic. Basically the plastic stripped, and allowed more air. I was able to repair it with genuine CS8000 parts though and actually improved the mounting.
Great vid! I brought a beat up ms 180. Took it all apart freed the stuck rings and sanded the scored piston, cylinder and rings. Put it all back together and doesn’t leak under pressure and vacuum and the compression is 127psi which I thought was really good for such a bad appearance initially!
It does start no worries but only ran it for 60 seconds or so just to try it. Seemed good!
I want to learn carb tuning so got an aftermarket adjustable carb and wondering with the above info, should I be able to do so with this saw? Or could I run into problems with that saw?
Can you pleaseeeeee do a stihl chainsaw tuning tutorial from the very start with where to start the screws, using a tach and your process? That would be amazing.
Thanks for your amazing content!!
Check out the channel Steves small engine saloon.. Think that's what it's called. A few easy carb tune vids. Good ole hoosier
Excellent advice I would never have known until I saw your very informative video, thanks.
Wish I would've known this before I bought a carberator and fuel system rebuild kit. Installed everything and it wouldn't run right. Broke down and brought it to a small engine shop and the 1st thing he did is take the exhaust off and show me the piston scouring. Said unless I had a parts saw with a good piston just buy another saw. Lesson learned!
Thanks for the like!!
can you show us how to use the compression tester?
also thanks for the advice
The other thing that can cause piston scoring is running the saw too lean. Running lean means more RPM and more power, but lt means shorter engine life. One time I was cutting firewood on a dry logging road, lot's of dust . Didn't take long and the saw seized. .
Great advice as always!
Looks like perhaps an overheating issue as most of the damage occurred on the pto side away from the flywheel/fan. I would not think a pro saw would have the fuel mixed wrong.
Working the saw hard immediately after startup in my experience usually shows a different wear pattern than this one which is mostly confined to the hot side of the cylinder,
Thanks for giving everyone a good heads up again. Great video, keep it up!
Where do u fill in the oil for the crankcase is it the same as bar oil I'm 82 years old and my saw will not turn over I like to cut my own fire wood thank u you tube
Eric Hermann you just mix the oil in the gas 2 cycle. I know you already know that. And bar oil in the oil side and that’s it. Unless you have some sort of 4 stroke saw
I've seen them scored more when people mix the fuel with ethanol in the gas. That booze makes the saw run hotter even if you have an adjustable carb and richen it a bit. I would say to mix at 40:1 if you cannot get ethanol free or use something like trufuel.
Bull crap. I have been using E10 since it came out. The drawback to this is short storage life....runs fine on 40:1
Great information. Yes, that's why I don't buy used equipment. No idea how it was used or abused.
wow - i looked at the echo chainsaw that i just bought and everything is just super smooth inside :o (has 2 piston rings also)
it might have some fuel or oil leak issue tho... because its just oily everywhere(altho the cap was also open a bit) and i think it smelled like petrol when it had a pool under its right side...
and the front suspension dampers were just broken/loose... and 1 without a cap even...
The exhaust port inspection is something i forgot.
Hold the saw by the recoil handle and do the rope drop method. If the weight of the saw does not start dropping, your good. If it drops slowly and reaches bottom within a minute suspect suspect scoring piston and bad rings. Do this while run hot and the weight of the saw just drops. Also depending on the bar. You may want to remove the bar and chain to do this test.
Never thought about looking under the muffler.
Kinda like looking under a skirt before buying.
In both cases you might want to run away.
It'd be nice because as a man the condition of the taco is extremely important while shopping, you dont want to get stuck with a roast beef sandwich even though the complexion and measurements checked out.
Scotsmen call them KILTS, definately best not to look.
@EyeWitnessChina the false advertising goes both ways, when 99% of men think 3cm equals 6 inches.
lol
@@amandagardner565 3cm? yikes!
I'm a mini Dachshund and I'm hung much lower than that! LMAO! 🤣
Do these same men say "is it in yet"? ROTF!
So, perhaps a good idea to bring a compression gauge too as if a seller will not let you disassemble removing a spark plug and doing a compression check can show this issue too - right?
Another thing to check quite easily... Hold the chainsaw in all positions (horizontal both ways and even just let it hang from the handle) while running. If it revs up, there might be issues with the bearing seals inside the crankcase. Also quite an expensive repair.... Not chainsaw related; my FS-400 bushwacker has compression issues. Turns out it wasn't on the outlet side which was scored but the carburetor side. But that's not easily checked while trying to make a deal with somebody.
I like the 361 but think the ms360 is a much better engineered saw. I do not like the tank vent on the side of the tank. It forces me to under fill the gas tank, otherwise the vent will not work correctly. I also do not like the half choke position on the control lever. It is not a positive half choke position. I also like the air filter cover on the 360 over that on the 361. What I really like is my deco valve on the 360 stays in until the saw rolls over or runs. I have replaced the deco valve on the 361 with a Husqvarna valve but it still pops out much to early. As for performance, they are about equal, although the 361 seems to be a little more peppier. Regardless they are about equal in big wood.
Great video, thank you for the heads up on what to look for. Can a chain saw with a scored cylinder and piston be rebuilt? Does stilh or huskavarna use a steel cylinder sleeve?
After using 40:1 as fuel/oil premix ratio, our company has NEVER failed an engine and scored cylinders since. We used to score cylinders every year on equipment at 50:1 ratio. We’ve never fouled a plug either at 40:1.
Taking the muffler off might not be OK for owners, how reasonable it might be because you might damage the threads, break a bolt etc. I'd recommend buying one of those small USB inspection camera's that you hook up to your phone, and look inside the combustion chamber trough the spark plug port.
If you're lucky you can also check for scoring by looking through the carb. With an endoscope you should be able to do so...
If a seller won't allow you to remove the muffler, sometimes the best thing to do is simply walk away at that moment..... In many cases, they will change their mind, or it if they don't, it may mean that they are hiding something, so either way, is not a bad thing. Also, this gives wiggle room for negotiations.
@sparky12x ask the seller to take it off problem solved :)
Yeah, right. I'd spend $150 so I could save $50 on a chainsaw.
I have one of those scope cameras and you can't see crap with it
If you rebuild that 361 be careful because an am piston can hit the counterweights. I built a huztl 361 this summer and it ran great for 7 tanks and then it ate the piston. It busted off the skirt on both sides and they ended up in the crankcase and bent the rod. I had to replace the cylinder, piston, crank and both seals plus a few other parts. When I rebuilt it I coated the counter weights with assembly lube and put the piston , cylinder on loose and rolled the crank around four or five times. Wherever I had assembly lube on the piston I received it with my Dremel too. After four or five fittings I had sufficient clearance between the piston and the counterweight. I also trimmed the skirt length on the piston so they were identical in length. There was several thousandths difference when I started this process. I now have 7 tanks on the new cylinder and it is no longer kissing the crank.
great tips, Thanks a lot, are those torx bits 6 inch long or longer?
Yeah I made that mistake. MS290, I thought was a excellent deal. Wellllll. Piston was scarred so bad. So now, i have a bucket of clean parts for sale lol
Your guidance DB73 is helping a lot of others including Myself. Thanks my Friend.
Thanks for the great lesson , I just bought a new craftsman 18 in 42 cc. ,The clutch took a dump in a 1/4 tank of fuel cutting dry cotton wood I took it back and got my refund
Great videos watching you all they way from Australia, chainsaws are a big hobby of mine, I've found a big issue with cracked fuel tanks & dodgy repairs
I just rebuilt my 290, new cylinder, piston, bearings, fuel line, filters. Cost me $40.
It's surprisingly easy to rebuild them. I had a Poulan that was condemned by a Certified Repair Shop as "not worth fixing." I bought the rebuild kit for $60 and it runs better now than when it was new out of the box. I still hate Poulan, but it was a gift, so...
F De Mascio , I once bought just a fuel line for $25. A rebuild kit is so cheap I might just rebuild it every year. I rebuilt my big Johnsered too. I use them a lot so this is great.
Some times the scoring adds to the drag in the cylinder. I never judge a chain saw by compression. I find the number one reason for damage on a chainsaw us lack of oil in the fuel. By running it with lack of oil it boosts power which burns the piston and scores the cylinder. Sometimes you can take out the plug and see down the cylinder with a bright pen light or bore sight light. I actually carry a bore sight on light with me in my glove box. I have had several guys give me chainsaws they just dont want to mess with simply because they won't start. A carb rebuild kit later and they are ready to go again. Good tips for guys looking for deals.
Generally, if the saw is really dirty and abused looking, it's not worth buying. The chain and bar is usually trash.
exactly
I "bought" a mid 90s poulan six/seven some odd years ago for a six pack of beer. Added a carb kit and it has run flawlessly since. Runs all day without so much as a hiccup. Almost always second pull and she fires up, cold or hot.
Luck of the draw I guess.
Nice video, keep it up!
Thank you for this video. Its educational. I wouldn't know this information if you hadn't talk about it.
Great tips. I know at least 3 people that got burned buying used saws.
I live in the PacNW (very close to Cananda) we beat the poop outta our chainsaws) I go to California to buy used chainsaws, preferably the suburbs.
Short and sweet Info ! Great stuff ....again ! Thanks
You bet!
I have had saws given to me that looked like that. Good video.
Great advice mate, thanks!
G'day from Australia 🇦🇺
Great information, one question, I have a Farm Boss Stihl, can I replace with a larger bar
I thought you were going to look at the air filter! One of the best indicators for how a saw has been treated is the air filter. Good saws have better air filters which can be maintained, but many cheap saws just have a piece of sponge. If the filter has a lot of oil on it, they've been mixing the fuel too rich. Often this oil and dirt will then work its way past the sponge and cause exactly that kind of scoring. If the saw hasn't been maintained well, the air filter will be blocked up with dirt. If it has run too hot, maybe due to not being properly sharpened, then you will see scorched sawdust built up on the filter. Conversely, if the air filter is clean, the saw's either been well looked after or it has hardly been used.
I bought a used Sthil ms 250s it runs great 👍🏻 but it leaks a little gas or oil !
That’s a great thing to check... same idea... I was going to buy a conversion van from a used dealer... he said the engine had no leaks and he started it up... I looked at the engine while running and he shut it off... all looked good... but I asked him to let it keep running so it could warm up... he obliged... and after about 10-15 minutes it started leaking anti-freeze.... if I hadn’t let it run I would have noticed too late! I moved on...
Wow thank you so very much !
Very useful and handy tip for any future purchases. Thank you.
BUY NEW IF YOU CAN, IF NOT MAKE SURE TO CHECK THE PISTON AND CYLINDER FIRST!
About the most thorough and easy to learn from person I know of , Thanks !
Thank you!!
Thought it mighta been an inconsistent chain tension as you slowly spin the chain....
Valuable informations !! Thank you brother
Hi Dony, I have stihl ms261 ( non M-tronic) 2018 model and I heard that the models after 2014 have a rev limiter. Is that true and the ignition module have this function?
Mercy beaucoup, tres bon avis.
Wow, thanks! A compression test might be less invasive? I could see it happen that those exhaust bolts are really stuck and break off?
When I sell my chainsaws I always squirt some gear oil into the spark plug hole to restore compression! 😂😂
Good tips
Good advice
Great video thank you
Sir would you show on one of your videos a Force Tec cylinder kit for a stihl 026,260 chainsaw for 2020 or 21.If that model is not available show a Force Tec cylinder kit for another pro Stihl chainsaw.
Thanks kindly for your time
Thanks kindly
Boa dica pormenor que poucos sabem. Abraço de Portugal
excellent video & advice
That is by far the best advice.
You are my héroe, Jeep doing videos, you are very good teacher🎶😁
I wish I had a workshop like that!
I wish mine was as tidy as that 😂
Great information! Thanks
sir available cylinder head for ms381.
Great video and tips.
Thank for the info good to know
Does the damage to the piston always happen on the front or back side of the piston or can it happen on the side as well?
it can happen on different sides of piston for different reasons
Great job my Canadian brother 😀 😀 once again thank you for the update on the . buying of used equipment 😀😃😄
if u can afford new, it's always better
@@donyboy73 that is so true
@@donyboy73 oil mix 1:33 ?
Thanks Don
Basically don't buy a used chainsaw unless its dirt dirt cheap...buy new (even if you have to compromise on size to afford) get the warranties, the "brand new" feel and peace of mind
Hey Donny you did a video on the 170 for the upgrade for the bar and chain can you shoot me the part numbers that you used I meant cuz the only ones that I can get is going to a bigger clutch a bigger bar.325.50
Thank you. Thank you.
Love your videos, they make me want to drive to Canada to get you to work on my chainsaws.
But I do have a question; you say you always mix your fuel with a little extra oil (like 45:1 instead of 50:1). Does the same hold true for Tru-fuel which I’ve seen you recommend? As in, would you buy the 50:1 recommended or go down to 40:1 instead of 50:1?
Great tip Don
Another great video as always!
I see saws for sale on-line all the time with only 2 or 3 tanks of gas through it. The bar will tell the real amount of use. With 2 tanks the bar will still be brand new. I see them with a half worn out bar.
I see a lot here that are new or practically new. We have had a hurricane hit us 3 of the past 4 years. People buy the saws and then never have a tree come down from the storm and instead of keeping the saw they sell them. They are most the time homeowner Husqvarna or Echo saws they bought from Home Depot or Lowes but there is a lot of them. I have bought a couple saws recently that the homeowner used to heat with wood and moved where they don't have a fireplace or wood stove anymore so don't need their saw and really probably had to much saw for what they were doing in the first place. My 372xp and MS440 were mint and I paid less for the pair then I would have paid for one of them new.
Donyboy can you make a video on how to check a weedeater before for you but it please?
knowing that shit I'll buy one new thanks for the input
Bravo brother.
Thank you for the great information.
Dirty fuel = piston scoring. Also too much oil in mixture. Two strokes are delicate little petals.
That is great info. I’m with the guy that said you might get push back if you asked to disassemble the seller’s saw. If so, just id just walk away from it. Oh-One thing i noticed-the cylinder appeared to be cast iron (the fins looked rusty). If so, Thats some quality built equipment.
Thanks Don, good to know.