A Smart Filament Sensor? BTT Smart Filament Sensor Review
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ค. 2020
- How smart can a filament runout sensor be? BigTreeTech's Smart Filament Sensor is put to the test!
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I bought this sensor to halt my printer when my TPU jammed. Very handy. When I converted to direct drive on my AM8, I had the smart sensor at the top of the frame. To fix the issue of retractions etc, triggering the sensor I simply fitted a bowden tube between the sensor and my extruder. Worked perfectly. The sensor will now be going onto my new Biqu B1.
Excellent video. I run a Bowden tube from my sensor to the extruder. It keeps the filament at a set length to prevent false positives.
Thanks, was only looking for an explanation of it's workings, nicely explained.
Great review, thanx
Very well explained, thanks. I was thinking of buying one but was curious about what they offered over a switch, BTT list of features explained nothing. Rotary encoder, motion sensing, perfect. I'm buying one, cheers.
Sounds like a great idea,but a lot of my filament breaks are at the extruder gear,so it would have to be mounted after extruder on bowden,but then the filament couldn't back out upon filament runout or break.
Do yourself and your printer a favour by installing a PTFE tube between you filament sensor and the print head. That way the filament flow will be smooth and you can turn down the 100mm in your firmware to about 10mm.
Also, the print quality of your printer may impove, since it's not yanking the filament at big, fast travel moves
The sensor has a design fault where filament being pushed into a jam springs back (stepper motor clicks). If the light sensor is currently on an edge between solid plastic and a hole, the sensor reports movement to the printer and it continues to print. To get around this, two light sensors are needed specially spaced so both cannot trigger at the same time and each is looked at sequentially looking for triggers. If only one continually triggers, it doesn't matter and a jam is reported. This is what a quadrature encoder does.
Finally, a review of this thing in English. This is something that could prevent much grief and is almost ignored. I thought it was maybe a flawed product. Maybe not.
Hi Brian, thanks for really good video. I am new to filament printing using an Ender 5 plus. Some of my projects are 30 plus hours, not a pinch on your 6 day ones! While I sort of grasp the firmware changes do you know if the BTT is a plug n play on the Ender 5? I don't mind changing pin positions on the external plug but am not so sure about internal changes and firmware changes. Your comments are most appreciated. Thanks Bill.
I have a ender 5 plus. I dont know if this would work on the stock board however I know from experience that modifying the firmware on the stock board is difficult and is outdated anyway. I upgraded to the btt skr 1.4 turbo with the tft3.5 and it made the printer much better. I wish youtube would let me share pictures. I printed a benchy before the upgrade and one after with the exact same settings. The difference was night and day. Now if I can only get back to that with my new hotend. If you are interested kersey fabrications has videos on the upgrade.
Will this work with the right board that has a spare port for a filament sensor or does it need a purchase of a SKR Mini E3 board? I have a CR-10 is a CR-10 board that has space for a filament sensor. I have the board that i purchased for the triangle labs filament sensor which i believe was the CR-10 V2
If I have a CR-10s which has their runout sensor which is hot garbage. Can I just unplug the cable from that and put it into this one without other modifications? or do I have to change other things?
This is not a feasible solution because I did update my old printer firmware board, but there are lots of details missing, like chips or screens and other hardware; also, not every printer has firmware based on open source, so I am not sure how this advice will work. The advertisement about this could work on some printers that are based on open source, but you will have a difficult time compiling the H file. I am thinking of a better solution, but I do not have an extra printer to test my solution. My solution is that the old printer has a cut-off sensor; we need to see the output value for the smart sensor, make it match the cutoff sensors, and plug the smart sensor where the cutoff sensor is.
Thanks for the review. I think it's a no brainer to buy one of these since it can pay for it self and save you a lot of hours run time on a failed print. I just need to research on if it will work with an Artillery Sidewinder.
It'll need a firmware rebuild, but the electronics side is a breeze, as it uses only a single IO pin that's usually exposed for any type of runout switch.
Howdy folks, i'm a little late to this party, but I have a quick question. Installed this sensor on my Ender 3 (direct drive setup). Installed it just as Brian mentioned, on the top rail. I changed the filament runout detection to 100, then 125mm. Still after the initial purge line, the sensor indicates a filament change. Am I missing something here?
Hi. I have exactly the same setup. BL touch, SKR mini E3 V1.2, and I bought this filament sensor but after I try to enable them all and prepare firmware in Visual Studion Code I get error :(
Can You upload somwhere Your firmware.bin file?. Please.
With it mounted after the extruder and you have a run-out, it leaves you will having to disassemble the boden tube to fish out the remaining filament. An unnecessary hassle.
Install it just before the extruder with velcro tape using a small piece of tube connected tightly to the sensor but loose to the extruder (or maybe just an air gap). When the filament breaks, there will be some filament between them sticking out of the extruder.
Where's that code? on the actual printer connected with USB? I'm clueless :)
I'm curious what you're printing that takes 6+ days and 2+kg of material?
A few armor pieces recently for our cosplay. It happens.
Hi I bought the sensor together with a E3 board but had not time to mount it yet. I was a bit surprised by the size and have no idea where to place it. Thanks for the instructions. Since I plan to go to direct drive, it seems I have to stick with the switch type ?
Mine is set up on a direct drive. To compensate for slack being generated after the sensor, I set the runout millimeters to 150 on mine. So far, I haven't triggered any more false positives.
@@TheFirstLayer Hi Thanks i will try that.
you will get the same accuracy on direct drive if you mount it as close as you can to the extruder, look at what michael has done you can even mount it closer.
Interesting; so because the sensor is constantly switching between the "filament run-out" and "filament present" reporting states (due to the encoder wheel), we need the firmware to ignore the triggered filament run-out for the defined movement distance. Yes, this would certainly be problematic if there's any slack between the extruder and the sensor, as you observed. Therefore it would make more sense to have the encoder wheel method be built into the extruder itself (maybe as part of the idler wheel on a single gear extruder)
You've got it. The motion sensor line also changes how Marlin monitors the runout pin, so no concern is needed regarding it considering digital low as out of filament.
James that's a great idea and could definitely be done, you just identified a gap in the market, now go make it and sell it haha!
so using the runout sensor cable of the ender 5 plus won't work?
It will, as long as the pins line up. The biggest caveat is to remember to reconfigure your firmware as shown.
@@TheFirstLayer getting the firmware thing done will be a challenge indeed
Seems like something you could easily print.
If you're good with a soldering iron and could replicate the electronics to go inside, then sure. Sourcing the components to make this is probably going to be a bigger issue, at least for me.
I'd consider buying this unit once I finish my printer.
Finally someone who knows what they are taking about. @design prototype test is such an uninformed content creator. His videos are garbage at best.
Any suggestions on direct drive setups? I have hemeras and would like to continue using them, but I have my filament loaded on the top side of my machines and always get a ton of slack when printing.
Hi Brian, I didn't know you were a Baseball player!
Thanks for the video but why do you sound like you are reading a user manual (as thrilling that always is)?
Less creepy smiles please Brian.
I was a bit tired haha! Sorry about that
@@TheFirstLayer I have those days all the time, then you try to force a smile and it looks.. well. how it looks. hah.
Good review though. Thanks.
LOL. What, you don't want him to smile?
First