You literally have a video concerning everything about a washing machine! They are all complete, accurate and incredibly interesting. By watching your videos I have had the confidence to fix my whirlpool washer from 1998. I was able to fix it with your help! Thank you so much! I’ve learned a lot, saved a ton of money and gained a lot of confidence. 🙏
This is an amazing video.. Not only took the time to explain every move but there was a closeup and a slowly removing parts. Well done sir! Thank You! I can't believe the brakes are $80 now (2023)
I have watched almost all your videos on repairing the whirlpool top loaders. You have covered almost everything which is an amazing resource for me as a laundromat manager. One of the things that I have not seen is a video about replacing the seals in the drive shaft, I watched the replacing seals and bearings in the support shaft, and used things I learned from that video to make the process easier for the drive shaft. I would love for you to make a video specifically about the drive shaft for any insider tips to make the process even easier.
This is overkill, just to change the brakes. You folks only have to remove the agitator, flip it over and remove the hoses, 3 bolts then pull the shaft, motor and transmission at the same time. very helpful video, lots of helpful details, thank you for helping others.
@@WeatherNut27if you're just changing the brakes or clutch you don't have to remove 90% of that stuff. If you remove the clip from the agitator you can slide the entire shaft out with the motor and everything. This is a very helpful video, because it shows you everything, however you do not have to remove everything
Thank you! Thank you! so much for this video. My washer wasn't spinning, and after replacing the clutch, it still wasn't spinning. After searching the web and various forums, it looked like I needed to replace the entire basket drive assembly which is over $100. At this point I despaired thinking that my washer's time had come to an end. Then I stumbled across this video and realized that I could just buy the brake shoes and save a bundle! Woohoo! I would add however, that I don't believe you need to remove the drive shaft to replace the shoes. I will certainly be trying to replace the shoes with the drive shaft in place. Thanks to APP for helping us DIYers keeping these old but reliable appliances working!
@butchtropic hmm, and I was wondering why they are called brakes /sarc when they are seized to the drum or not releasing properly that causes the washer not to spin
Bill Clinton If the brakes were seized to the machine then how did you pull the drive assembly out ??? I smell BS here, seems you’ve chosen a good name !
I always tilt the machine forward and remove the gearbox , motor and pump as an assembly after removing the wires and hoses to the pump. Looks like changing the brakes would be easy at that point.
I think our brakes have just gone out. It's clunking to an abrupt stop at end of spin cycle. Looks like a lot of fun. Lol. but you did a great job of explaining what needs to be done. Thank you. Just got to get the parts and get it done.
I have a really great whirlpool built in 89 gave me no trouble until last week.. it had a burning smell..and it wont spin,, ok one youtube vid said its the coupling or the clutch .. i bought both and replaced both and those parts were fine.. no reason to replace them but i did anyway.. replaced the agitator dogs too.. put it back together and it still wouldnt spin and had the burning smell again ( not the motor) i assume its the brake system and it wont unlock.. do you have an idea why the brakes would lock on this whirlpool when everything else is working properly ?
Great video. You make it look easy. I need to repair mine and hopefully I don't have to order more parts? I ran a service truck and did all kinds of repair for 20 years, including repair of Continental H-20 commercial washing machines, and believe me this looks easy compared to some! I love how well thought out the build of these machines are. Well done. I wish the dairy's equipment rooms were done like this repair room!
I've been working on my washer for a week and I've tried everything, a capacitor, check the pump, everything and I really think the brakes arent the problem... But the little piece in the thumbnail, the white one, is broken. So I think I need to replace it. so thank you
I just used an air hammer didn't have a spanner wrench I have mine all apart and the drive block is stuck inside the tube I didn't realize it will come out thanks for the detailed video it helped me a lot
Clearly your pump has been leaking. What's the purpose of the white paper on the bottom side of the motor? Mine fell out , should I be concerned? Thanks for being so positive!
Great video! The spanner wrench is a must have tool to remove the spanner nut. Even with penetrating oil and rubber mallet, the tub would not come free of the drive block. Removed the transmission and then tapped on the top of the drive block to free tub. Hardest part is getting tub out. After that quick and easy repair. Tub and drive block had built up gunk so plan some time to clean.
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback. People do often ask if they can complete the repair without that spanner wrench, but it is much easier to go ahead and get it.
Excelente video maestro y excelente trabajo en lo personal me sirvió mucho felicitaciones y su merecido LIKE. SALU2 DE MONTERREY NL MÉXICO Y GRACIAS. ✌️👍👍
Thanks for the vid, what if one of the wires on top of the motor is shorting? The washer won't drain and stops after a few seconds on some speeds. I couldn't find any obstructions and the pump turns fine. I replaced the gear case & motor coupler, but it is still doing the same thing. And then I noticed one of the wires on top of the motor is black and melted at the connection. Can I just replace the wire connection or is something else causing the motor to overheat? The brakes and clutch look ok to me.
Any Luck? Im having the same Problem.I replaced a couple different parts before it stopped working like yours got frustrated and went and got a new machine.I hear they go for 20+ years I want my 5+ more years.I have replaced Coupler Clutch than My transmission started Leaking,went and ordered seals for Tranny than all of a sudden it just gave out.Left me with a tub full of water.Replaced Lid switch still wouldn't start.I did notice that when I would put the Timer on spin it would Trip my breaker.
@@pagevpetty We've found that there is a problem with the neutral wire (white wire) connection at the junction near the water solenoids that also feed the motor. The simple fix is to buy 3 feet of 16 gauge white thhn wire and 2 trailer quick connects and connect one end to the white wire to the white wire near where the power is coming in and the other end to the white wire running to the motor. And now you will also have to add a patch wire to any of those wires that got burnt. Bend the wires near that area and look for stiff spots where the copper melted. Can't imagine how many have tried replacing the motor with out success. The tell tail sign is that the motor will just hum while drawing twice as much electrical current. We now just spend the $2 and add the jumper....
Need help... I did the clutch repair on a LSR7010pq1. The center shaft was corroded and would not come out. Took a lot of effort, hammering and time but I got it out. I removed the inner spin basket thinking it would help me get the shaft out. Wrong. The drive block is stuck in the basket and no amount of hammering with a 4lb mallet will set it free. Replaced clutch and reassembled without issue. The drive block was very difficult to tighten and get it to lock on the shaft. But I got it tight. Now when empty, Low spin is fine but in high spin it goes violently out of balance. I checked the suspension components and they are all in tact. The Spin basket remained attached to the shaft after several tests. Not sure what went wrong. I think it is related to the drive block or the basket. What confuses me is that it is fine on low spin. I am going to run it without the Spin basket to see what happens. Any Ideas what my problem is ?
Matt, you make amazing, thorough videos. I have a 3 year old Whirlpool washer that makes a rubbing sound at every 360 degree turn of the drum. I am trying to watch these videos to see what the problem may be. A service technican had no idea! Matt (or anyone else), do you have any ideas as to what this rubbing sound may be caused by? Most videos just show you how to fix different parts of the washer, but give no reason why one would know why this or that part needs to be replaced. Thank you.
Buen día charly seguí los pasos de tu video pero mi lavadora sigue sin funcionar como si el cluch no ensamblara con el frano del tubo spin que consejo me pudieras dar ya que jalo el agitador hacia arriba y trabaja bien el siclo de centrifugado pero vuelve a repetirse la falla De antemano agradesco tu comentario saludos
Hello, I have whirlpool WTW5200VQ2, and machine does not run after water is filled up to the level. I have empty out the drum. I noticed that inner drum is not free, I mean it does not rotate by hand. is it normal or something wrong. Please comment. thanks
Does it sound like the motor is running but the agitator didn’t spin? If so check at 17:00 of this video for the coupler. Although your problem might be different.
@@boostedmaniac thanks for the reply. It was not a coupler. Ultimately I figured it out as it was a capacitor. I tried to run the motor when it was taken out, it needed a jerk to start, that means start capacitor is no good. Once it is replaced, everything is perfect.
My direct-drive Kenmore 500 washer makes a "squeegee-like sound" every time the brakes engage at the end of a spin cycle. Is this normal? Other than that sound, the brakes do a fine job of stopping the rotation of the inner tub in less than 3 seconds.
Hello there, first of all great video, as many I've watched from you. My question is, when you removed the basket drive assembly ~10:17 you said you only needed to turn it counter clockwise and pull, but in my washer though it turns counter clockwise I can't pull it off. It there a way to know what can be holding it? Is there a part a area in which I can add some lubricant or penetrating oil to loosen it without damaging anything else?
my washer machine is a kenmore 800 series . it comes to an abrupt stop the machine makes a loud noise when it stops and the machine moves when it stops after every cycle, is this what i have to do replace the brakes ?
You can try to oil the clutch shoes. This will allow the basket to slip to a stop. Clutch shoes can get sticky with age. If you have a tube Oiler it is possible to able oil the clutch pads from the bottom by tilting the machine approximately 45 degrees back to the wall. No disassembly is required this way,
My kenmore washer 600 series spin once it get to spin cycle,so I replace the motor coupling,clutch shoes,lid switch,,and still same result no spin,the only way it would spin is if I rock the tub back forth then close lid and it spins. What else should replace?thanks.
If the spin tube seems stuck, how do you get it out, I have done everything as directed but it won't come out, it moves about one in, I have a Kenmroe elite, I need to replace the brakes.
We'd be happy to help you figure out what's up with that. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Great video, but it would be good if you showed us just how the old parts were worn out so we can know if that is the part that needs replacement. Like the comment below, I've replaced every part, but still no spin.
There’s also a hack fix if your washer to stopping too fast to avoid removing everything. Remove the outer shell and tilt the washer back against the wall so you can see underneath where the brake shoe and drum is. Watch this video to get an idea where the brake shoe is. Apply some high temp silicone between the drum and brake shoe. You can rotate tub some so you see the spring which will give you enough space to use a flat blade screwdriver to apply some silicone to the metal outer drum. Just apply a little. Also be sure to use silicone instead of grease or oil. I’ve heard those will eventually decay the rubber on the brake show more.
We offer free technical advice and diagnosis, so we would he happy to help you figure out what's wrong with your washer. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
i noticed when you lifted the inner tub a water sloshing noise. Hear the same on my washer but can't get any water to drain out regardless of how i position the inner tub. Is it desireable to get this old water out somehow?
That liquid sound may just be from the balance ring, which is about half full of fluid to help balance a washer as it moves. As the load shifts during wash, the load may become more concentrated on one side of the basket. The fluid in the balance ring shifts to the opposite side of the load to help offset the weight of the load and keep the rotation of the basket stable.
No problem! If you ever have any appliance problems or questions in the future, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
Excellent Video!, all the internal parts and components on this unit are the same as my Estate (lower end washer), except the control knobs. just goes to show you higher end appliances aren't much better then the lower cost units from the same manufacturer
I'm just wondering what I'm missing here. Why did you go through all that extra work by removing the cabinet. I just unplugged it, disconnected the water lines and drain hose. Then I removed the agitator and laid it on it's back and I had easy access to change the brake shoes. I completed the job without a problem.
I usually pull it off with the transmission too. However, removing it makes it easier to manipulate the transmission as it's quite awkward and heavy as a unit. But then, reinstalling the motor with a new coupler, you need to spend several minutes aligning the coupling, since it's a good tight fit. In the video, the coupler was worn, the pins thus are looser, so installing the motor is much easier.
i tried getting that brake tube off, and i saw the brake assembly. my machine had no short tube. i replaced the clutch assembly the other day. put it back on the transmission, then i changed the motor coupler. tried pushing up and counter-clockwise, as you did, but she didn't give an inch. after this, i replaced the balance ring. since i had not yet spent what the stores were asking for heavy duty maytag washers and dryers, i decided to try to fix/find the problem. the motor, transmission, water pump, capacitor, water level float---checked just about everything but my butt hole. agitator, drain, fill, worked on all cycles. nevertheless, it would not spin the clothes, even though it would pour rinses water in the spin cycle. after cycle, the tub would drain. the anger begin to really rise up in me, so i took everything apart, again. checked my work, and put the washer back together. now there is no sound on spin, and the machine does nothing but a slight hum on all cycles.checked agitator, dissembled it. replaced agit-digits. let water disconnected, but turned current on, in order to see what was then occurring. same thing. faint hum everywhere, except the silent spin. some of these vids suggested that a no spin zone might possibly be due to switch lid. 5 min fix, easy, no problem, no expense, use zip ties---yeah. after a rather severe beating, kicking, screaming, and crying session on the old girl, i set out to do these alleged easy fixes. over 8 hours later, i had found all 3 of the lid switches. this washer bore a resemblance to the aftermath of the titanic. i finally traced and pulled wires and little boxes, none of whom that favored anything on you-tube. i happened to have unhooked the one that worked, before we all began rewearing our underwear, both inside and out---same for socks. some man suggested a staple put in the switch would bypass the program, and spin would work. another lady told that i could take a guess and cut the plastic clip, that traced to the lid. my wires are green, brown and white---i think. though i haven't chosen to do this yet, i guess it is something like hot wiring. i don't know why it quit all cycles. should i put the 2 wires together w/ one of those electrical caps? i have a heavy duty kenmore, if that means anything. inside, looks as if 3m company has a warehouse on premises. i didn't have that much tape, when i had worms.
If you need additional help with the repair, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
First, great video. Thank you so much. Second, may all washing machine engineers be cursed with tongue warts and a plague be upon their houses. When is the last time you had to pull the axle on your car to change the brake shoes? It's absolutely possible to engineer the brake assembly so the shoes can be replaced with everything in situ. But it might have cost them an extra dollar.
Lo siento, pero no entiendo su pregunta. No sé qué es "el closet de lavadora". Si necesita ayuda adicional con la reparación, puede llamarnos al 1-877-477-7278 o puede chatear en nuestro sitio web: www.appliancepartspros.com/. Estamos aquí para ayudar 7 días a la semana.
Clutch failure. My 16 year old Whirlpool was the same way. No spin or a very slow spin that would stop sometimes. Could hear the motor humming and the agitator worked okay. Replaced the clutch and motor coupling and now it spins really fast. Clothes are nearly dry when the spin cycle is over. Wish I had done it sooner. Will be replacing the 16 year old brake next before it fails. Hope this helps.
You literally have a video concerning everything about a washing machine! They are all complete, accurate and incredibly interesting. By watching your videos I have had the confidence to fix my whirlpool washer from 1998. I was able to fix it with your help! Thank you so much! I’ve learned a lot, saved a ton of money and gained a lot of confidence. 🙏
This is an amazing video.. Not only took the time to explain every move but there was a closeup and a slowly removing parts. Well done sir! Thank You! I can't believe the brakes are $80 now (2023)
Glad we were able to help you. If there is anything in the future we can help you with please let us know.
I have watched almost all your videos on repairing the whirlpool top loaders. You have covered almost everything which is an amazing resource for me as a laundromat manager. One of the things that I have not seen is a video about replacing the seals in the drive shaft, I watched the replacing seals and bearings in the support shaft, and used things I learned from that video to make the process easier for the drive shaft. I would love for you to make a video specifically about the drive shaft for any insider tips to make the process even easier.
This is overkill, just to change the brakes. You folks only have to remove the agitator, flip it over and remove the hoses, 3 bolts then pull the shaft, motor and transmission at the same time. very helpful video, lots of helpful details, thank you for helping others.
So you dont have to remove the tub? I would think that just makes it lighter to manuever and work on but maybe you're right
@@WeatherNut27if you're just changing the brakes or clutch you don't have to remove 90% of that stuff. If you remove the clip from the agitator you can slide the entire shaft out with the motor and everything. This is a very helpful video, because it shows you everything, however you do not have to remove everything
Thank you! Thank you! so much for this video. My washer wasn't spinning, and after replacing the clutch, it still wasn't spinning. After searching the web and various forums, it looked like I needed to replace the entire basket drive assembly which is over $100. At this point I despaired thinking that my washer's time had come to an end. Then I stumbled across this video and realized that I could just buy the brake shoes and save a bundle! Woohoo! I would add however, that I don't believe you need to remove the drive shaft to replace the shoes. I will certainly be trying to replace the shoes with the drive shaft in place. Thanks to APP for helping us DIYers keeping these old but reliable appliances working!
@butchtropic hmm, and I was wondering why they are called brakes /sarc when they are seized to the drum or not releasing properly that causes the washer not to spin
Bill Clinton If the brakes were seized to the machine then how did you pull the drive assembly out ??? I smell BS here, seems you’ve chosen a good name !
I always tilt the machine forward and remove the gearbox , motor and pump as an assembly after removing the wires and hoses to the pump. Looks like changing the brakes would be easy at that point.
I think our brakes have just gone out. It's clunking to an abrupt stop at end of spin cycle. Looks like a lot of fun. Lol. but you did a great job of explaining what needs to be done. Thank you. Just got to get the parts and get it done.
that was one off the best tutarial videos ive seen
Top quality video! Covered every step 👍 thanks.
You are welcome. Glad we were able to help. If there is anything we can assist you with in the future please let us know.
I have a really great whirlpool built in 89 gave me no trouble until last week.. it had a burning smell..and it wont spin,, ok one youtube vid said its the coupling or the clutch .. i bought both and replaced both and those parts were fine.. no reason to replace them but i did anyway.. replaced the agitator dogs too.. put it back together and it still wouldnt spin and had the burning smell again ( not the motor) i assume its the brake system and it wont unlock.. do you have an idea why the brakes would lock on this whirlpool when everything else is working properly ?
Great video. You make it look easy. I need to repair mine and hopefully I don't have to order more parts? I ran a service truck and did all kinds of repair for 20 years, including repair of Continental H-20 commercial washing machines, and believe me this looks easy compared to some! I love how well thought out the build of these machines are. Well done. I wish the dairy's equipment rooms were done like this repair room!
######
Excellent explanation, I thank you for that tutorial, it is very helpful to me, thank you and greetings from Panama City.👉🇵🇦🙌👋👍
You're welcome!
I've been working on my washer for a week and I've tried everything, a capacitor, check the pump, everything and I really think the brakes arent the problem...
But the little piece in the thumbnail, the white one, is broken. So I think I need to replace it.
so thank you
What do you call that spring behind the brake and how do you know when it needs to be replaced.
Like, what are some symptoms ?.
I just used an air hammer didn't have a spanner wrench I have mine all apart and the drive block is stuck inside the tube I didn't realize it will come out thanks for the detailed video it helped me a lot
Clearly your pump has been leaking. What's the purpose of the white paper on the bottom side of the motor? Mine fell out , should I be concerned? Thanks for being so positive!
Great video! The spanner wrench is a must have tool to remove the spanner nut. Even with penetrating oil and rubber mallet, the tub would not come free of the drive block. Removed the transmission and then tapped on the top of the drive block to free tub. Hardest part is getting tub out. After that quick and easy repair. Tub and drive block had built up gunk so plan some time to clean.
You're welcome! Thank you for your feedback. People do often ask if they can complete the repair without that spanner wrench, but it is much easier to go ahead and get it.
Sexso
Gracias por tu video y saludos desde Guadalajara jalisco mexico
nice instructional video, excellent value...thank you !
You are very welcome. If there is anything we can help you with in the future please let us know.
Best explain yet of any you tube
Thank from Colombia
Well done video. Nice step by step instructions and I work on washers and dryers.
Excelente video maestro y excelente trabajo en lo personal me sirvió mucho felicitaciones y su merecido LIKE. SALU2 DE MONTERREY NL MÉXICO Y GRACIAS. ✌️👍👍
Thanks for the vid, what if one of the wires on top of the motor is shorting? The washer won't drain and stops after a few seconds on some speeds. I couldn't find any obstructions and the pump turns fine. I replaced the gear case & motor coupler, but it is still doing the same thing. And then I noticed one of the wires on top of the motor is black and melted at the connection. Can I just replace the wire connection or is something else causing the motor to overheat? The brakes and clutch look ok to me.
Any Luck? Im having the same Problem.I replaced a couple different parts before it stopped working like yours got frustrated and went and got a new machine.I hear they go for 20+ years I want my 5+ more years.I have replaced Coupler Clutch than My transmission started Leaking,went and ordered seals for Tranny than all of a sudden it just gave out.Left me with a tub full of water.Replaced Lid switch still wouldn't start.I did notice that when I would put the Timer on spin it would Trip my breaker.
@@V8vortec98 nah, just bought a new one
@@pagevpetty We've found that there is a problem with the neutral wire (white wire) connection at the junction near the water solenoids that also feed the motor. The simple fix is to buy 3 feet of 16 gauge white thhn wire and 2 trailer quick connects and connect one end to the white wire to the white wire near where the power is coming in and the other end to the white wire running to the motor. And now you will also have to add a patch wire to any of those wires that got burnt. Bend the wires near that area and look for stiff spots where the copper melted.
Can't imagine how many have tried replacing the motor with out success. The tell tail sign is that the motor will just hum while drawing twice as much electrical current. We now just spend the $2 and add the jumper....
Need help... I did the clutch repair on a LSR7010pq1. The center shaft was corroded and would not come out. Took a lot of effort, hammering and time but I got it out. I removed the inner spin basket thinking it would help me get the shaft out. Wrong.
The drive block is stuck in the basket and no amount of hammering with a 4lb mallet will set it free. Replaced clutch and reassembled without issue. The drive block was very difficult to tighten and get it to lock on the shaft. But I got it tight. Now when empty, Low spin is fine but in high spin it goes violently out of balance.
I checked the suspension components and they are all in tact. The Spin basket remained attached to the shaft after several tests.
Not sure what went wrong. I think it is related to the drive block or the basket. What confuses me is that it is fine on low spin.
I am going to run it without the Spin basket to see what happens.
Any Ideas what my problem is ?
Son Grandiosos, saludos desde México... Gracias
Gracias amigo me sirvió para desarmar mi lavadora ya que no esprimia y cambiar platillo
¡De nada! ¡Nos alegra que hayas podido solucionar tu problema! Si hay algo en lo que podamos ayudarte en el futuro, háznoslo saber.
Thanks a lot Matt, its a great help to many
Why would you change the brake shoes vs brake assembly?
So how fast or slow should the drum stop after spin to know if the brakes are working properly?
Very well explained 👌
Thanks for the video. This was very helpful in helping me understand what’s wrong with my washer.
Thanks for teaching me how to fix the issue. And concluding that it’s not worth fixing it
You are welcome. If there is anything in the future we can help you with please let us know.
Matt, you make amazing, thorough videos. I have a 3 year old Whirlpool washer that makes a rubbing sound at every 360 degree turn of the drum. I am trying to watch these videos to see what the problem may be. A service technican had no idea!
Matt (or anyone else), do you have any ideas as to what this rubbing sound may be caused by? Most videos just show you how to fix different parts of the washer, but give no reason why one would know why this or that part needs to be replaced. Thank you.
Agree
Excellent video... thanks 😊
Buen día charly seguí los pasos de tu video pero mi lavadora sigue sin funcionar como si el cluch no ensamblara con el frano del tubo spin que consejo me pudieras dar ya que jalo el agitador hacia arriba y trabaja bien el siclo de centrifugado pero vuelve a repetirse la falla
De antemano agradesco tu comentario saludos
Now this is one Awesome step by step video. TU+SUB
Hello,
I have whirlpool WTW5200VQ2, and machine does not run after water is filled up to the level. I have empty out the drum. I noticed that inner drum is not free, I mean it does not rotate by hand. is it normal or something wrong. Please comment. thanks
Does it sound like the motor is running but the agitator didn’t spin? If so check at 17:00 of this video for the coupler. Although your problem might be different.
@@boostedmaniac thanks for the reply. It was not a coupler. Ultimately I figured it out as it was a capacitor. I tried to run the motor when it was taken out, it needed a jerk to start, that means start capacitor is no good. Once it is replaced, everything is perfect.
that was perfect. thank you so much
Fantastic video ,thanks
Is it similar if my washing machine has the door at the front?
No! Front loading washers are designed differently.
@14:40 what's the part number for the plastic cam?
What is the model number of your appliance?
Thanks for your help
My direct-drive Kenmore 500 washer makes a "squeegee-like sound" every time the brakes engage at the end of a spin cycle. Is this normal? Other than that sound, the brakes do a fine job of stopping the rotation of the inner tub in less than 3 seconds.
The pliers for unscrew hoses where do you get them? Share a link where i can find them
Hello there, first of all great video, as many I've watched from you. My question is, when you removed the basket drive assembly ~10:17 you said you only needed to turn it counter clockwise and pull, but in my washer though it turns counter clockwise I can't pull it off. It there a way to know what can be holding it? Is there a part a area in which I can add some lubricant or penetrating oil to loosen it without damaging anything else?
I have to mention I haven't removed the drive block you mentioned at ~ 5:57. Just in case that's important.
my washer machine is a kenmore 800 series . it comes to an abrupt stop the machine makes a loud noise when it stops and the machine moves when it stops after every cycle, is this what i have to do replace the brakes ?
You can try to oil the clutch shoes. This will allow the basket to slip to a stop. Clutch shoes can get sticky with age.
If you have a tube Oiler it is possible to able oil the clutch pads from the bottom by tilting the machine approximately 45 degrees back to the wall. No disassembly is required this way,
Disculpe ese clutch para que sirve?
These are top quality videos! Thanks
You're welcome! Glad we could help with your repair.
My favorite demo!
My kenmore washer 600 series spin once it get to spin cycle,so I replace the motor coupling,clutch shoes,lid switch,,and still same result no spin,the only way it would spin is if I rock the tub back forth then close lid and it spins.
What else should replace?thanks.
Pats4life I have the same Kenmore600 did you find out what the problem was?
Austin Porritt sorry no,I still haven’t figured out wth is wrong with it.i don’t know what else to replace
@@eacalways OK thanks. Time for a new one
If the spin tube seems stuck, how do you get it out, I have done everything as directed but it won't come out, it moves about one in, I have a Kenmroe elite, I need to replace the brakes.
if the inner tub spins freely by hand when its off does this mean brake pads need replacement. ? its also not spinning during spin cycle.
We'd be happy to help you figure out what's up with that. We offer free technical advice and diagnosis. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
Mil gracias
Great video! We’ll explained. Thanks!
Also you can use long pointy pliers to put the bolt in while the agitator is sitting down on the tub.
Thanks for the info
Great video, but it would be good if you showed us just how the old parts were worn out so we can know if that is the part that needs replacement. Like the comment below, I've replaced every part, but still no spin.
If you aren't "spinning" (you mean, "agitating"?), your drive coupler is bad. It's a rubber link between the motor and transmission.
Agree
There’s also a hack fix if your washer to stopping too fast to avoid removing everything. Remove the outer shell and tilt the washer back against the wall so you can see underneath where the brake shoe and drum is. Watch this video to get an idea where the brake shoe is. Apply some high temp silicone between the drum and brake shoe. You can rotate tub some so you see the spring which will give you enough space to use a flat blade screwdriver to apply some silicone to the metal outer drum. Just apply a little. Also be sure to use silicone instead of grease or oil. I’ve heard those will eventually decay the rubber on the brake show more.
I have replaced both the couple and the clutch brake. My washer still only makes the noise of spinning but does not budge.
We offer free technical advice and diagnosis, so we would he happy to help you figure out what's wrong with your washer. You can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We will need your model number to give you accurate advice, which you can locate using this tool on our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
i noticed when you lifted the inner tub a water sloshing noise. Hear the same on my washer but can't get any water to drain out regardless of how i position the inner tub. Is it desireable to get this old water out somehow?
That liquid sound may just be from the balance ring, which is about half full of fluid to help balance a washer as it moves. As the load shifts during wash, the load may become more concentrated on one side of the basket. The fluid in the balance ring shifts to the opposite side of the load to help offset the weight of the load and keep the rotation of the basket stable.
oh wow! So much more to washing machine than I supposed. Thanks, for the reply.
No problem! If you ever have any appliance problems or questions in the future, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/.
El buje donde está montada la pieza está muy desgastado como lo puedo cambiar?
Excellent Video!, all the internal parts and components on this unit are the same as my Estate (lower end washer), except the control knobs. just goes to show you higher end appliances aren't much better then the lower cost units from the same manufacturer
This IS a "lower cost" unit.
thanks, it is a good video
Exelent You working
I'm just wondering what I'm missing here. Why did you go through all that extra work by removing the cabinet. I just unplugged it, disconnected the water lines and drain hose. Then I removed the agitator and laid it on it's back and I had easy access to change the brake shoes. I completed the job without a problem.
Extra $$$$👎
he probably did it that way to make it easy for us to see what he was doing but I guess he should have said it wasn't necessary
Great tutorial. My washer stops so suddenly it moves an inch.
Glad to be able to help with the repair!
Was your washer also making a loud bang noise as well as moving?
Can I monitor the sound while recording on my iPad
How to record on my iPad
It should be possible to do so through the camera app on your iPad!
nice 👍
I don''t understand why you removed the motor? I would have just pulled it off with the transmission.
I usually pull it off with the transmission too. However, removing it makes it easier to manipulate the transmission as it's quite awkward and heavy as a unit. But then, reinstalling the motor with a new coupler, you need to spend several minutes aligning the coupling, since it's a good tight fit. In the video, the coupler was worn, the pins thus are looser, so installing the motor is much easier.
gracias; la exposicíon del procedimiento; muy bien. bendiciones
Excelente Saludos
Estamos contentos de que podamos ayudar con su reparación.
i tried getting that brake tube off, and i saw the brake assembly. my machine had no short tube. i replaced the clutch assembly the other day. put it back on the transmission, then i changed the motor coupler. tried pushing up and counter-clockwise, as you did, but she didn't give an inch. after this, i replaced the balance ring. since i had not yet spent what the stores were asking for heavy duty maytag washers and dryers, i decided to try to fix/find the problem. the motor, transmission, water pump, capacitor, water level float---checked just about everything but my butt hole. agitator, drain, fill, worked on all cycles. nevertheless, it would not spin the clothes, even though it would pour rinses water in the spin cycle. after cycle, the tub would drain. the anger begin to really rise up in me, so i took everything apart, again. checked my work, and put the washer back together. now there is no sound on spin, and the machine does nothing but a slight hum on all cycles.checked agitator, dissembled it. replaced agit-digits. let water disconnected, but turned current on, in order to see what was then occurring. same thing. faint hum everywhere, except the silent spin. some of these vids suggested that a no spin zone might possibly be due to switch lid. 5 min fix, easy, no problem, no expense, use zip ties---yeah. after a rather severe beating, kicking, screaming, and crying session on the old girl, i set out to do these alleged easy fixes. over 8 hours later, i had found all 3 of the lid switches. this washer bore a resemblance to the aftermath of the titanic. i finally traced and pulled wires and little boxes, none of whom that favored anything on you-tube. i happened to have unhooked the one that worked, before we all began rewearing our underwear, both inside and out---same for socks. some man suggested a staple put in the switch would bypass the program, and spin would work. another lady told that i could take a guess and cut the plastic clip, that traced to the lid. my wires are green, brown and white---i think. though i haven't chosen to do this yet, i guess it is something like hot wiring. i don't know why it quit all cycles. should i put the 2 wires together w/ one of those electrical caps? i have a heavy duty kenmore, if that means anything. inside, looks as if 3m company has a warehouse on premises. i didn't have that much tape, when i had worms.
If you need additional help with the repair, you can give us a call at 1-877-477-7278 or you can chat us at our website: www.appliancepartspros.com/. We’re here to help 7 days a week.
Me gusta gracias
👌
buen video
Why wouldn't you clean inside and outside drum along with the seals. Cleaning inside agitator also a good idea.
This video is just to show how to do the repair. Cleaning is a good idea while you're in there though.
Cool technical
thanks amigo
You're welcome!
amigo esa pieza que el esta cambiando que falla da ?
👌👌👌👌👍👍👍👍👍👍
Y GRACIAS , YA VI COMO CENTRARLA
buscABA COMO CENTRAR LA TINA, YA VI
First, great video. Thank you so much.
Second, may all washing machine engineers be cursed with tongue warts and a plague be upon their houses. When is the last time you had to pull the axle on your car to change the brake shoes? It's absolutely possible to engineer the brake assembly so the shoes can be replaced with everything in situ. But it might have cost them an extra dollar.
If there is anything we can help you with please let us know.
QUE BUEN EXPLICADO
You could have put the motor and pump when it was laying down; it is easier for me.
Hola hablan el español ?????
I would probably change the coupler and clutch while I'm in there.. just saying
Very informative but my idea and your idea of “easy” is waaaaaaaay different!
It's easy, just a lot of time involved. This procedure took me about an hour and a half from start to finish, just because of all the steps involved.
You listed a symptom of "abrupt stop". Isn't that what the brakes are supposed to do?
Depends how abrupt.
You’ll know. Mine stops so fast the whole tub shakes and bangs around.
Muy interesante me resultó
Gracias
@@rosamendez5012a o.o
tenkiu very well
Cómo instalar el closet de lavadora Whirlpool
Lo siento, pero no entiendo su pregunta. No sé qué es "el closet de lavadora". Si necesita ayuda adicional con la reparación, puede llamarnos al 1-877-477-7278 o puede chatear en nuestro sitio web: www.appliancepartspros.com/. Estamos aquí para ayudar 7 días a la semana.
ya vi, gracias
It looks like that spring loaded brake shoes spun too easily.
Now days you replace the whole basket brake assembly.
My washer does not spin, when I try to move the tub with my hand it doesn’t budge.
D
Xy no Oz TV
B. Saludos cordiales atte saludos mi
Clutch failure. My 16 year old Whirlpool was the same way. No spin or a very slow spin that would stop sometimes. Could hear the motor humming and the agitator worked okay. Replaced the clutch and motor coupling and now it spins really fast. Clothes are nearly dry when the spin cycle is over. Wish I had done it sooner. Will be replacing the 16 year old brake next before it fails. Hope this helps.
7:36 you forget the little screw?
9 o'clock
Thx
You're welcome!
Sensordeagua lavadoras
Bien profesional y no lavo la tina ni el tambor de toda la pelusa y sarro....