Driverless 50W LED teardown and schematic.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- A complete teardown of one of the new driverless LEDs. It's interesting that these devices seem to be based on the chips used in some LED filament lamps. They seem to share a common array of LEDs, but have a number of driver chips bussed in parallel according to the power rating.
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You use the word 'cheap' when we who deal with Chinese understand 'Westerners' are actually gdtting overcharged aka RIPPED OFF.
I love you, you are basically my wikipedia for LED and electronics
No... He's only mine 😁😆😘
Too bad there are no solder pads for connecting an external smoothing capacitor. Those things are so cheap that they would make very nice lights if the flickering problem could be solved. Of course a bit of scraping and tagging leads directly to the output of the rectifier might be possible, but not very easy.
Hm, maybe even add an external bridge rectifier and a smoothing capacitor on the input side and just let the current flow through one half of the rectifier on the board... Maybe I should get a few of these and experiment a little.
That would be easier than getting the silicone off. I found they make silicone removal fluids - but not sure how the components would react to them...
The components won't react with those. Silicone removers are mostly silicone oil and solvents
Eden's Aquaponics i was thinking the same thing. But if you only have a single phase, is it possible to make circuit that can make a delay in phase so second unit will be on, while the original is off? That way, with two units, you could have simple smoothening effect... of course, leds must be close to each other.
My thoughts exactly
I just ordered a driverless cob from a Chinese company . My brother told me he saw a u tube video where a guy bought a cob and glued it to a heat sink and got he wrong glue by mistake causing the thing to melt thru the granite table top and into the floor due to a over heat. I know you would know if this was possible or not? I have learned allot from watching you videos. I have been taking thing apart since the age of 4 .I have always marveled at how electronics are put together.I wanted to become a electric engineer but lost interest when I got older but still love to take things apart . Thanks for making these videos the way you do they are very illuminating .
An LED would not burn through granite. Maybe plastic laminate.
Clive, might i suggest, that rather than attempting to solder onto those pads with a soldering iron, you instead use a hot-air wand and solder paste. It works much better, and faster, just be sure to place an angled aluminum piece to act as a shield to prevent the hot air from damaging the LEDs.
Oh, and you need a much larger calculator, my nan couldn't read that from her house a few miles away :D
I don't have a fraction of the electronics knowledge you have, but I have been experimenting with both the DCV LEDs, and the integrated power supply LEDs for use as shop lighting in my fab shop.
I have had NO problem whatsoever with flicker. I've tested everything from 20W to 150W integrated, (at 120vAC), and have been operating individual lighting implementations around the house, and in the shop, as trials.
The only problem I have had is with early failure in some 'full spectrum' integrated LEDs I built for my wife's plants. I enclosed full spectrum because the LEDs were actually so damn red, they made the entire house glow red during the day!
So much for full spectrum. I ended up mixing them with equal wattage cold whites at a ratio of 6 red to 4 cold whites to get a decent color that wouldn't make the plants continually what to flower.
The problem I've had is the lights are failing at about a 25-30% rate after two months of daily use.
Have you tested any of the integrated/driverless LEDs at 120vAC to see if the flicker still exists? Some of the eBay chips I've looked at have 110-250vAC, and some have either 120vAC or 240vAC inputs. I've tried some of each, at different wattages.
Something I was told, and verified, was some brands, and sellers on eBay sell a better quality LED; gold vs copper conductors, and copper vs aluminum bases. They are not more expensive, which is confusing. The early failure 'full spectrums' were not the gold/copper type. I've had no failures in the gold/copper LEDs. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks for your vids...
"The silicone rubber is a bit rubbery" - priceless! Thanks Clive!
That's some Big Clive energy
God I'm glad there're people like you out there giving us school drop-outs a free education. I loved all this (and science in general) at school but I had far more pressing matters to consider back then.
Cheers man.
So....it's not a driverless LED but an LED with an integrated driver.
No shit sherlock
Well, i think of a driver as something standalone that alters incoming voltage to feed the need of an led. If the diodes themselves run on mains, then i suppose no, there are only safety measures like regulators and resistors from what I saw.
Might be totally wrong, thats just how i understood things.
god job mate.
I drive them 7 in parallel but over a grid diode bridge and 47uf/250V cap (flicker) --> in series to that is a 9uF/250V AC Cap. with this setup the overall consumtion is 40 Watt, they last forever and are day bright. Its mounted onna 1.5m alu bar (7 equal spaced 50W LED) cover the whole box.
I can show you where to get the AC cap for 30 cents. Whadda say.
hi clive, excellent video!! can you just add a big cap to make it better?
+Proyectos LED That video is made and will be released soon.
@@bigclivedotcom driverless???
Yes
The flicker would improve if you moved to North America. Here in Niagara Falls (CA) there's an old, tiny 25 Hz generator hooked up to an incandescent light, and the flicker is noticeable.
Was anyone else hoping he'd try to power up the stripped carcass at the end?
Very well done analysis.
When desiging similar things for the TX PAs for the mobile radio market, for soldering leads on it helps to heat the whole thing with an electric hot plate.
..
ALSO, It would be nice to actually see the current waveform on a scope. A 0.1 ohm resistor in series with the neutral side.
...
--
Regards
I'm a bit suspicious those chips are the same as in 5mm LEDs. I also have a couple of those LEDs and the chips are sooooo tiny! The 20W, 30W and 50W versions all seem to have the same chips (and the same number of them), this is weird.
seems a weird way to accomplish the end goal.. but that must mean they are just driving the chips must harder in the higher rated LEDs? probably not great for reliability or longevity in the higher rated units. Interesting tho.
@@nategaudette4228 if these are the YXO LEDs from Aliexpress, they have ~3year warranty
Thank you for this very nice detailed video, with the good zoomed hires printouts.
Dear Mr. Big Clive,
I am a recent subscriber to your channel and have been enjoying your videos immensely, in spite of the fact that I am a lowly software engineer and have a paucity of erudition and experience when it comes to matters electronic.
I find your attention to detail, combined with your casual in-passing remarks on the deliterious affect of mains voltage on the kind of day one could end up having, to be educational, informative and entertaining. I particularly enjoyed the Fishocutor video.
Last week when checking the Sunday roast to see if the juices ran clear I noticed they hadn't, I said, in accent that approximated yours, "That's not good." and promptly returned the beastie to the oven.
the best byttlick I have ever seen
I bought 10 of these (30W) a little over a year ago (before this video). Two have not been put into service, two are still functioning, and six have failed.
With the flicker and using for street lights, if you put each light on a separate phase of the the 3, would they flicker in sequence, as the sine wave is offset from each other?
Peter Grant I think so, it might not work perfectly but most of the time you'd have 2 arrays lit and one dark, cycling at 50hz.
running all 3 phases to the same light fixture sounds fun
+WineScrounger 100Hz actually.
I think I noticed a slight 3 phase 'chaser' effect in the stadium lights at the london olympics in the ultra slo mo playbacks. don't know what was actually in those fixtures, would guess that it wasn't LEDs though.
afaik 100Hz strobing isn't usually much of a problem unless you're operating rotating machinery when it can make things that are spinning look like they're stationary.
John Doe true, good spot
Clive, I really want to see what will happen when you plug in the stripped module to the mains. For teh science!
Absolutely nothing would happen as it would just be a rectifier with a floating output.
Hi Clive, I'd just like to tell you how interesting and informative I find your videos. Although I've had some peripheral involvement with electronics in my life it's only now that I'm in my dotage I've started studying it more closely. After watching your dissection of various things I'm starting to understand the circuitry of the objects more and more. Thank you so much, keep up the good work. Best regards!
You should definitely get some proper tools to measure light emission, because your reviews are very interesting and getting the lm/W value would be the cherry on top.
Oh, and spectrometer to get the CRI :)
@@olafmarzocchi6194 chinese-electronics-products-tested.blogspot.com/p/dob-6040a-led-array-tested.html
Found this at some point.
There's actual specs on these chips. Color Rendering Index:Ra85 Lumen: 980-1680LM
Color Temperature: Warm White 2800-3000K/ cold white 6000-6500K
Would this chip make a good DIY grow light ?
Better than a CFL, but grow lights have a spectrum tuned for growth. Purpley, no green in it (reflected by leaves). But you can't beat the price of these white ones.
Working pretty good here.
Are the solder pads thick enough to spot-weld a piece of metal to them, rather than solder s wire to them?
I ordered a bunch of these in 50w 110v to replace halogen bulbs on work lights. Payed $2.39 a piece from Alixpress. Love them
can you solder a small cap on the leads going into the LED array?
Thanks to Clive for the led info. I am a retired electrician and have s huge interest in these. I retired just before the industry changed. Now I am also a radio ham and the floods I bought on eBay wiped out the HF band's. No suppression of harmonic squarewaves at all from the driver. Due to your video of driverless LEDs which I knew nothing about I have now bought some to test and will swap over if ok. Glad to say totally quiet. The two 20 watt ones check out as 20 watts on my power meter but the two 50w chips way below ,one at 17 w the other 25 watts. They are perfectly useable still as after 30m still running ok with no signs of any problems. I mounted thst one on a heat sink for a lengthy test. Thanks again Clive for your wonderful information videos. I will never buy these floods again . They came from a UK based company hoping they are legit, but No.
Just because they emit EMI in the HF bands doesn't mean they aren't legit.
Hi Clive
Could you peel the silicon from the bridge rectifier outputs and tack an electrolytic across to reduce the flicker?
BTW you can get silicon eater from DIY outlets which would probably have been less destructive than the knife. I like your knife.
A Metcal or JBC iron with a fat tip would solder those with no problem.
+mikeselectricstuff Hey, steady on. This is supposed to be the trashiest electronic channel on TH-cam.
I agree with the other suggestions: the cheap Chinese hot air gun and some eBay special solder paste is the way to go. Or just the hot air gun to pre-heat the board before regular soldering, but I do love me some solder paste :D
JBC + unisolder is my way to go
Can you do some theory on the scope? Love how you explain shit bloke. You're like an old school tech teacher.
Makes you wonder whether the next generation of these devices will include some form of on-board smoothing? As you note, electrolytics do have their own lifespan problems, but having an easy-to-change "Capacitor module" might be attractive to Municipal users? Alternatively the chips might be used to drive a thin phosphor layer with a modest decay profile, so eliminating a lot of the flicker? If there is the will to use these VERY simple devices, a way WILL be found to cost-effectively overcome their limitations.
So the 50W LED is actually a 25W one. Why do they always lie about the rating? All the LEDs I've ever bought are usually about half the claimed rating, Yes even the ones from Poundland!
Go on BigClive, you know you want to add a smoothing cap just to see how much better it runs
Can you do a video on how to properly use avalanche diodes? Pls...
The calculator is too small to see
Hey Clive. I was wondering what frame rate you shoot at? It could prevent the flickering you get from LEDs if you have it set to a number that goes into the local Hz of the mains power where you live. (If my understanding is correct - it might not be but it seems to work for me when I shoot video). That means that in the UK/Europe you'd shoot at 25fps or 50fps because the local power supply is at 50Hz, and in places like North America where it's at 60Hz, you'd shoot at 30fps or 60fps. This lines up the lighting flicker with the framerate so that its consistent in every frame and in a lot of cases makes the flicker go away. - might be worth a try.
Wow, I just learned more in 28 min than the last ten weeks of the analog devices class in college...
Wouldn't it be possible to put an own rectifier and capacitor before the the L and N plates and just feed it an already pre-rectified and stable DC signal? I mean, there would be some more energy lost but I think that it should make the flickering stop. Or am I missing something here?
EDIT, In case someone reads this: Just after this video finished I saw there is a follow up video for this, where this exact option was talked about it turns out, that it is possible.
Can you put a capacitor on the output of your bridge rectifier to solve the flicker?
It would bring the voltage to 330v. DC (AC peak)
Yes, I have done so on a couple similar lights and they seem to be happy about it.
The flickering he is talking about is at 100Hz, its not a big problem on the human eye otherwise nobody would go to movies where the flickering is at 48 Hz, but its a its a major problem for tv camera. If you have put a few hundred nF cap on your circuit it does'nt made much of a difference but if you have a few 10's micro F its certainly flicker free and a lot brighter but not for long.
I'm using mine to shoot 1000+fps so the flicker was quite evident on camera.
I threw a 220uf in because it was what I had on hand but I don't see how it would cause the lights to fail early. It still draws the same average current as before and dissipates the same power unless the 80% duty cycle was used a "cool down" time.
A 220uF 400V is huge If you put it behind a rectifier it will keep the DC voltage at AC peak about 330V in this case supplying 4.5V to each LED well above its operating limits. What are the physical dimensions and the rated voltage of your cap?
the knife 16:25 is the Amtech S0282 Slide Unility Knife, by DK Tools LTD, is out of stock, looked it up out of curiosity 👀 using it as seen in this video requires you're a professional at taking things to bits.
Quality video mate! Your thoroughness and excitement are very fun to watch.
is it possible to solve the flickering by adding a capacitor behind the rectifier to + and -? eg 100 uF 220 V?
The RMS voltage rises to the peak sine wave voltage and puts a lot of stress on the driver chips.
Clive, have you tried shimming the gap between the heating element and tip? My chinese hakko ripoff can solder to these things with no troubles at all, and thats while they're stuck down to a heatsink.
Also curious, what happens to both power draw as well as thermals if you bridge an electrolytic across the bridge rectifier?
+Luke Den Hartog I've not tried shimming the iron yet. I considered the electrolytic. It would increase the voltage across the current limiting chips and probably cause then too go into thermal limiting mode.
bigclivedotcom Only one way to find out!
Perhaps two smoothed chips wired in serial? The voltage boost from the smoothing capacitor would be mitigated by splitting the AC voltage between two of these LED chips.
+bigclivedotcom Would love an update !
These would make a fantastic option if they could be smoothed.
Perhaps there will be a option if it works.
I've found that my Chinese "Weller" copy instant-heat iron works just fine on these boards. Seems to deliver the heat nice and quickly, with minimal heating of adjacent components.
They'll be ok if you have 3-phase power, just fit clusters of 3 in each fitting and put one LED across each phase. It won't stop the flickering 100% but it's a start.
Those sound like horrible Radio Frequency Interference generators, which would concern me as an amateur radio operator.
Nope. Operates at 100Hz, no fast edges or current spikes.
Hey Clive,
I was wondering if the flickering could be reduced or even stopped by using two of those driver less LEDs. One LED would be connected L1 on the top pad and N on the bottom pad. The second LED would be connected reversed.
With kind regards,
Tom
Hey Clive, great videos, just ran today into them! Something crossed my mind - could you dimm it via the current limiting resistors at the CS pins?
here in my part of the us power is 120v/240v... would it be safe to run these 220v leds on 240v?
You can get 120V versions.
I think they are fake 50W LEDs, but if u compare them with other ones there are alway 50 LEDs in one Housing with each 1W LED, but her are 74 LEDs, so theoretical 74W. So 250mW LEDs would i think is here more realistic, Means 74 * 0,25 = 18,5W, But if they really had 74 1W LEds then it would be a waste and the drivers are way to small
the 20W version was drawing 25W see 11:30 on the video
I'm not an electrician, nor do I understand anything he is on about, why am I subscribed?
Keep watching, you'll learn something.
Dez Prez The soothing voice ;)
Gay Daleks and "personal massager" disassembly.
Neither am I, although I do enjoy tinkering with electronics. Keep watching, a lot of what I know I've learn't from this channel.
+Dez Prez Because you wanted to know what was in a USB butthole warmer and decided to stick around?
They build them into the stairway lights here. The flickering is so bad, I use a flashlight to walk the stairs.
Now you can make the Tick-welding video again.
[5:04] If you solder on the heatsink, try preheating it :) Maybe with upside down clothes iron, to keep up the thrashy standards ;)
Could you explain power factor?
Simply Electronics AvE has a fairly good explanation of power factor, if you can find the video.
It tells you how much voltage and current are in sync. A pure resistive load always has 100% power factor (when the voltage is highest, the current is as well; when you are at half the max voltage you're also at half the max current aso. ; that's just Ohm's law). The more the shapes of the voltage curve and current curve differ (phase shift or general shape), the lower the power factor.
In a capacitive circuit you have a big inrush current as it's resistance at the start of the cycle approximates zero. As the voltage on the plates builds up the effective instantaneous resistance increases. IE the current leads the voltage. With an inductor because of magnetic field effects inducing back EMF (a reverse voltage) when the current is changing, then the current at the application of the voltage is at it's lowest and keeps rising until parasitic resistance limits current. IE Current lags behind voltage. In an AC circuit the lag and lead can be expressed as an angle and I think it is the sine of the angle that gives you the power factor number, as it is directly proportional to the ratio of real and apparent power. That said it's a long time since I studied this and most of what I work with is sub 1mW, and working in the frequency domain not time domain for analysis.
For regular folks, the power factor is essentially irrelevant, as the power company doesn't track that kind of stuff on your residential electricity bill, nor have a way to measure it with your regular residential meter. Industrial customers, with large banks of motors(inductors) like some sort of factory, probably do get that monitored and often put in capacitive banks to fix their power factors or get charged for the power company to do it. It is kind of an academic and engineering nerdy thing to worry about for most.
True in 90% for domestic users. However in some areas of Australia the domestic meters for people with large power banks and solar roofs do track power factor (partly to check that your system is putting power into the grid correctly). Also here in the UK all industrial units supplied with three phase have power factor tracking meters and you get fined if it is outside a set range.
The paper said confidential, Clive, you don’t know what confidential means, do you?😂
A "Dremel" wire wheel brush, one of the brass bristle ones works pretty good and removing the silicone with out hindering the SM stuff.... Just messy to do...
+Dru Bradley I did indeed use a Dremel with brass brush to clean most of the PCB. It left it looking a bit grey though. I had to clean it up with acetone.
Roger that... I stand corrected.. I did realize actually how small the led's and that they would of never stood a chance... of surviving the the brush bristles...
You can buy silicone eater that you brush on and leave for a few hours. It'd make life easier in this instance.
It's 3:15am here in NZ... Who needs sleep, anyway?
I just got a few of these but I don't have any heatsinks for them. I do have a 1/4” thick aluminum plate thats about 8"x10". Can I just cut a piece of that bigger than the LED (maybe leave about a 1/2”-3/4" border around the LED?) and mount it to that? Would that work well enough? I do have some thermal paste also.
The important thing about a heatsink is the surface area, not the mass. That's why most have fins.
yes it should work fine. I tryed different heatsink with those COB led and finally used an old Intel CPU heatsink. Generaly contact surface of those Intel heatsink is round, so I centered the leds of the COB (yellow main part) to the round part of the Intel heatsink, and it work fine. additionaly fead 12v to the fan of the heatsink, so the heatsink is always cooled!! Once thing, you should keep in mind, those COD are always gona get hell hot, even with a damn big heatsink!!! the heatsink job is just to "extract" that heat from the COB and dissipate it.
Ordered 5 x 20Watt 120V
Can't pass up that price.
Did you notice the odd pricing? 1 5-pack is higher than buying 5 x 1, $10,18 for a 5-pack, while $1.69 x 5 = $8.45
I've noticed a few sellers with "free" shipping start adding shipping if you order 3 or 4 or more of an item. Maybe the price jump is to account for the shipping weight of the multiple items.
Michael Tempsch i noticed that too
Clive, use a small wire brush on the silicone, smd parts usually handle it fine.
I want to say soaking it in warm lacquer thinner (toluene) to make the silicone softer and less rubbery, but that doesn't work in all cases. it's nice when it works though.
BigClive supporting the Chinese economy since 1979.
Try putting a cap at the output of the chip, as regulator chip datasheet recommended. Might able lower the flicker but brightness will go low/high and add will add extra load to the chips. worth the try
5:31 haunted lights?
Move out NOW Clive!
LMAO, didn't notice that until you pointed it out!
I ordered a few of the 110 volt 50 watt versions of this for my shop lighting needs and found this to be one of the more helpful videos I've found. After watching this I ordered a bunch of 20's just to keep the heat down.
I have one simple question after seeing Clive add the two 1 meg ohm resistors. Can I add a resistor to the 110 input to lower current? I have a variety of 1 watt resistors I could use.
The differences between my chip and Clive's are 144 LED's and the addition of two HEL-70271k varistors. I know the varistors are there to keep the current or heat at a minimum but I would like to throttle them back a little more.
Any suggestions? They will be heat sinked but even then they are over 85c
I have a challenge for u..I went to my local pound shop and found a pack of 3 lighters for £1 ,they have leds on them.quite powerful.powerd by 3 small disk batteries..my challenge is could u make a small led grow lamp using these..
light it up
plus led grow lamps are very pricey I would love to try and make my own..for my tomato plants :)
the problem would be getting the right wavelength led's for growing, full-spectrum grow lights contain blue, green, red (which creates a white light or reddish light depending on the amount of green) and sometimes infrared (IR) and ultraviolet (UV)
No, I don't believe so because they require a high power output and mostly full spectrum of visible light. I have a bunch of Viparspectra 1200w and they have multiple different types of LEDs to cover the full spectrum. They aren't the best lights for flowering stages, but great for seedling and vegetative growth stage. I try to mix those LEDs with some 1000w HPS to give a full spectrum while also providing a good intensity for the limits to their photosynthesis. No real cheap way to get to growing cannabis or "tomatoes" unless you are doing it outdoors which you can't beat.
Dan ok cheers
You're So Amazing, I'm not halfway through this Video , but Already Have Enjoyed From The Start.
Its Captivating like Bill Nye (the science guy
So thank U ,
That's an interesting product! I wonder how flickery it seems by eye, that is hard to estimate from video.
For video use you can always use a suitable frame rate to get rid of flicker. 1/25 or 1/50s frame timing should give no flicker but any random value (like 1/60s in the EU) should give a huge flicker with non-smoothed lights. (For US you'd like to use 1/30 or 1/60 frame rate to beat flicker). Use aperture and/or ISO value to adjust camera exposure.
I was shipped 2 of these by accident. I spent 2 hours attempting to attach wires to the power contacts on these things and they absolutely will NOT stick. Yes - I AM an utter cave-man at soldering, though I can usually join wires together. These, however, defeated me utterly.
It's the heatsink effect of the aluminium. The trick is to place them on a hot surface like a clothes iron to pre-heat them. The lowest setting is usually enough.
@@bigclivedotcom Thanks! Much appreciated.
You inspired my to get some of these and take a look at the driver chips and LEDs in my microscope. The BP driver die are really small and my LEDs were even smaller than yours just 0.2mm x 0.5mm vintageteardown.com/teardown/50w-cob-led-module-with-integrated-driver/
Very nice little chip. The scary thing is, I can VERY clearly remember the equivalent-wattage multichip LEDs coming on the market for a MUCH higher price than this, not that many years ago!. Next generation will have built-in smoothing, and they'll be just the same price . . . . . :-)
Put a Cap. on the output of the rectifier to stabilize, or drive the unit through a separate rectifier/capacitor package which would also be pretty cheap considering the cost of the main unit is under $2.
@biglclivedotcom Hi Clive! Nice video and digging in the LED :D But I'm confused, quick question- where did you buy this HOPI wattmeter and what was the cost?
I've a couple of these warm whites, cooled with cheap CPU coolers, growing some "flowers". The plants love them, they don't care about the flicker. They last long with minimal heat when running with active cooling. Heat them first on a clothes iron to assist with soldering.
good lord one version of that chip thermally throttles at 300f!!!! Thats crazy but i guess it makes sense that they would be designed to run hot.
Excellent exam. I suggest a capacitor across the pulsating DC to eliminate the flicker.
BigClive, I have a way of getting silicon off if you don't have silicon solvents or other stuff, a soft wire brush will remove the silicon and leave the components virtually undamaged, Just a tip. Many thanks and great work.
Yeah, I was wondering how these work without the inductor... Turns out it's just a fancy resistor, wasting 30% of energy to heat.... Better than halogen I guess, but not by much.
These are marketed as "dimmable", however it's not usable, as there is too much flickering.
21:05 Based on datasheet’s “Typical Application” circuit, your drawn circuit schematic is wrong: Jumping Drain1 and Drain2 will cause a short circuit. Drain1 is basically DC- and Drain2 is DC+ to the leds (‘string).
Could you add a cap your self. by taking the 240 volts and changing it to 240 volt dc and put a cap between that and the LED, that's if the flicker was a problem. But then again with being on a 50 hz grid I guess the flicker would be more pronounced compared to a 60 HZ grid. Cool video I will have to order a few of them to test out.
Thank you for this useful tear down.
I'm honestly satisfied that there's a led light out there for that price where the only problem is flicker- it could be worse, after all.
Adjust camera speed to match flicker. In Australia i shoot 100th second to combat/catch light on 50hz
The dtat sheet for the brightpower chip says it is dimmable; have you tried?
yes, they are kind of. I tried with PWM dimmer, I know not the proper way to dimmer led, but it kind of does the job.
when you dimming, at some point they are flickering like hell, just have to slowly turn the pot to reach an acceptable point, and it is fine.
Could you not add a smoothing capacitor to the rectifier to stop it flickering?
The flicker might be an issue for home lighting, but they look simply perfect for grow lights, I'm buying some of them right now, thank you!
Just curious how long did they lasted lol
Hello the LED is designed for 220V. Because in China the AC Voltage is 220V 50HZ, The 6,8 Ohm means 45 mAh curent in China well below 80mAh of the max Chip rating, but with 240 AC they will be soon destroyed. At 1:56 in ur video i can see the LED has 148 LEDs in compare to the 20W one it has 74 LEDs, so the 20W is working here at 2 times 50 mah peak (2Chips), but i looked in ebay and from 30 to 50W the LED Count doesnt change, i bet the 50W one is working like the 30W one maybe different resistors for current limiting. Why these things not burn out suddly is i think because of the near 50% on of Cycle. I want to see whats happen when u give them smooth HV DC with 339V
Hello, do you have a video or directions on how to wire one of these up to stop the visible flickering? What can I connect to this before connecting it to AC wall outlet to stop it from flickering? Thanks
Unfortunately the datasheet of the chip is very lacking. It's hard to tell if the chips are fine being run on (at least slightly) smoothed DC. They describe them as "linear LED driver", so it could very well be that they need the "pause" in every cycle.
+bigclivedotcom since you now know where you need to scratch ;) , could you sacrifice another one of those and solder in a electrolytic after the bridge rectifier to see if it lasts? Might go into thermal regulation almost immediately though
That one seller has something weirdly wrong with his pricing. If you select the 5pcs pack it costs more than 5 1pcs... So buy them while you can (if you don't mind the horrible flicker). Maybe they are worth it just for the LEDs? It's hard to find 50W cobs as cheap. You rip of the switching chips and supply your own smooth voltage with another driver.
Ah Clive, you're terrible ;-) Couldn't resist getting the sliding utility knife - Am Tech S0282 if anyone's interested.
Clive, look up "blue chip LED" , "flip chip LED", or "CSP LED" to see some of the new technologies. The flip chip does away with fragile bond wires.
Yes it has a temperature control! Driver chips reduce power after 160 degree Celsius.
Look at this crash test. th-cam.com/video/LFHu1fK895g/w-d-xo.htmlm
Now that you know what the circuit looks like I wonder if you could hack it to add a smoothing capacitor to help prevent or at least reduce the flicker?
Liked this vid a lot... though you teased us with the thermal regulation of those brightpower chips without testing it.
also wondered if they were supposed to be used in special fittings where contact was made by conductive wiper onto the board - looks like it'd be a pain in the ar$e to try replacing one in situ with a soldering iron - I'd guess access to these will be by cherrypicker or scaffolding tower in most typical applications.
good information and i always enjoy your videos, thanks.
Would it work from a DC supply? Perhaps it's worth trying to have a rectifier and a 47uF cap before this LED module and see if it will operate reliably?
I'm curious too!
now if only you would of powered the led up that you took to bits and used the thermal camera on it at the same time :D
I bought 3 of these after watching this 3 for$ 5.86.00
When I got them, wanted 3 more the price went up.
Don't know if you have discovered this already but surface mount components are sized 0603 - large 0402 - small 0201 pain in the rear tiny, this from my time in SMT work for Philips pre 2000.
bad design. to eliminate the flickering and realiable plus higher perform.
1. install 3 more bp5132 ic all in parrallel at right side on COD leds. used on 1 resistor Rcs for all 8 ic to have same current flow.
2. install 74 capacitor in parallel behide on 74 led that have the frequency that can fill voltage gaps to extend lifespan of led.(bad engineering designer).
3. isstall 3 jump Rs for suit design ( Rcs=1.2Ω for max 50mA x8=400ma super bright; Rcs=3.6Ω for max 15mA x8=120ma super dim;Rcs=7.2Ω for max 30mA x8=240ma normal bright;