Another cheap eBay LED floodlight. Is it really going to be 50W?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.พ. 2019
- It's a while since I've bought a cheap eBay floodlight, so I thought I'd buy a 50W unit to see how the insides have changed, if the ground is connected yet and if it's actually 50W.
I also bought this light for the case. I wonder how well it will dissipate the heat from an actual 50W LED.
If you enjoy these videos you can help support the channel with a dollar for coffee, cookies and random gadgets for disassembly at:-
www.bigclive.com/coffee.htm
This also keeps the channel independent of TH-cam's advertising algorithms allowing it to be a bit more dangerous and naughty. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
I picture Clive's house bathed in a glow of warm white LEDs inside and out.
All powered by pink USB chargers.
@@tin2001 From China
Bigclive better than broadcast TV
Indeed.
You beautiful manxome bastard! Starting to see these everywhere; was curious. Disposable outdoor-ish fixtures? Don't tell my insurance broker.
Hi.
Or a cheap waterproof ( resistant ) enclosure with a glass cover..
AvE Do more snoeboarding videos.
Hey man, I've been riding in Chicago snow on a bike every day, I can sympathize completely, today the snow was slush and will freeze solid by night
These housings are at least useful to mod in some better components. Can't beat all the kit it has for 10 bucks.
13:43.... Finally Clive.... We've all been screaming at the screen pointing to that ground stud since 6:00
It's 50W PMPO
Underrated comment
hahaha
I do believe that would be in the 500 to 5000 watt range
Yeah, like the "65 litre" rucksack I bought from a now closed-down camping shop, that was about 35 litres RMS .....
Thank god TH-cam recommended does right every now and then, your channel is a gold mine
Just ordered one, took forever to find the buyer you bought from !! Can't wait to have a play with it, first I will connect the earth, never commented on any of your posts, but been watching you for ages now, I love your channel !
I think the thing I like about your channel is that you do take things apart.
I have the 50W and 100W version of these exact chips, they were like €5 on Banggood
they also light up perfectly like that when you crank the voltage up to overcome the forward voltage, really happy with them and whichever manufacturer it actually is, seems reliable
They saved 1/100th of a cent by not earthing that wire.
Hey, it adds up.
Yeah, a screw or solder or even silicone/glue, anything to hold it in place better than something that could be shaken off the casing.
And now they will loose many times 10 dollar because these viewers will never buy one...
The earth wire is meant to be attached to a left hand thread
Thanks Clive. Always good to have a look inside devices.
I was working Saturdays at Maplin around 1998 and someone brought in a beautiful antique bronze table lamp that required a bulb. The owner said they just had it rewired but I pointed out there was only two-core flex attached. The owner said it did have an earth lead but she didn't want to bring it along. When I asked why she said it was tangled in the roots of her Yukka's plant pot.
so she thought 'earth' meant she could put it in her flower pot? lol
@@Blox117 I think you're just supposed to laugh
@@Alexander_l322 LOL HAHAHAAHAHA!
Thanks for getting back to me in such a quick response. This info helps 100 %. Thanks
love the way at 10:57 the LED driver output says (BROWN) and (BRUE)
...and they have red and bwack hooked up to it.
@@theotherwalt maybe they spwelt it right and we are wrlong
@@Soooperspeed You no Wong! He Wong!
@@mikecowen6507 ha ha ha ... my wowwy my really wowwy ... lol
@@mikecowen6507 In the words of the late, great Louie Anderson: "Yew been hee sree owwa... yew eat too much... yew go home now"!!! 😁
Very nice video. I do appreciate your time in doing all the video's you do. I know you make money doing this. But, without people like yourself, we all would be on our on when it comes to buying the good, verses the crap. You have helped me a lot. Saved me time and money. Again, thank you.
Always enjoy a Entertaining Clive video
@14:06, "Why on earth have they just not done that?" Why on earth--indeed! Thank you for all the really great vids, Big Clive.
The driver helpfully labels the output cable colors even, Brown for the negative and Brue for the positive, as one does. Also their basic physics is faultless quality with 36 V times 0,6 A equalling not 21,6 but 50 W because hey, everyone likes to save energy, right?
Brue??
@@heronimousbrapson863 - It is a common color like geen and wellow.
Can I ask curious question , how is it this video was posted 10 to 30 mins ago how did you comment 3 DAYS before the upload ? Just confused lol
Those colors are standard for some countries
Jesse LeBlanc - Clive uses a time machine called the TARDIS...
I really like how you end your videos - it's the same as when people in tv shows & films end conversations when talking on the phone, no "goodbye", they just stop talking :)
Very nice light Big Clive
Clive it looks like that driver is rated at 50 watts, on the closeup you can read output 50 Watts. Keep up the great work!
I use these for drywall finishing. They work good for the application.
"The first thing we should do is test"
That's how I can tell I'm not watching AvE
And the fact there is a substantially lower use of puns and made-up words.
Well ave was here watching with the rest of us. Lol
Very illuminating as usual Clive :-)
need to watch this again, fell asleep listening to Clive last night taking about this...
To answer your question Clive, because if they see you grounded it, they know you messed with it!
Also, see if Thermal Grizzly's new graphite pads can make for a suitable substitute for the zinc oxide grease. Just for giggles. It's mess-free, won't ever wash off in wet conditions (hopefully) and comes in a couple sizes; I imagine one large enough to cover the space.
We bought a couple of these in 80w UV for darkroom work. Same exact build, larger unit and It had an array of surface mount LED's on a panel. Price was $85US. They don't even seem close, but they work.
I have one of those Wera kits and it makes life so much better not having to carry 6 individual insulated screwdrivers!
The Cliff quick test.. I think way back when I was at school they had one in the physics lab, and I’ve always liked the idea.
I wanted to buy one recently until I saw the price, so instead I now have a piece of flex with three Wago 222 connectors on it. I call it the poor man’s quick test.
I just treated myself to some of the "3 in, 3 out" SPL-3 fake Wagos, as reviewed by Big Clive recently and available here: www.aliexpress.com/item/33013965974.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1f6a4c4dKnpnwR
One tenth the cost of the Quick Test, and / or 10x for the same price :-)
Am now wondering whether to color-code the levers...
Great video big C , keep up up the content 👍✌
Your vids are zen for techs.
"why on EARTH have they just not done it?"
Oh dear, what a groan!
Clive at his best!
Clive I have zero interest in these lights.....BUT....I still find your videos so dam entertaining.
yes it is very handy foxy has one ! got mine years ago probably from RS !
Aha.. My Chinesium energy algorithm worked a treat again.. simply take the number they state, divide by two and then take a little more off for good measure...
It's surprisingly accurate.. sadly
I sure miss the days when we could watch videos from you that involved things like flames shooting out of Barbie’s bottom.
Fantastic video
I must say... I always think to myself when you plug that UK wall adapter in the HOPI... wow I'm glad we have the simple plugs we have in the US. Having grown up and living in Pre-War (do with that what you will) apartments and homes in Chicago, I learned at a young age that clipping the ground prong off is just what you gotta do for a lot of electronics. I appreciate that your ground/earth is absolutely required... but oooofff what a headache
14:00 Yeah that hole is ready for a screw...
Giggity
12:28 Lets whip it out...
I'm not sure it would be able to take a very long one, though.
@@bluerizlagirl Never mind the length, feel the gEarth.
I thought you were going to take the driver apart also to see what that had. Oh well still good video to see the new technology.
AH! it's 50W of reactive power with that poor power factor. Clever Chinese.
ohh yes that's how they rate them and get away with it
VA*
I have 6 sets of Ebay floors. Four 150 watt and two 300 watt. What got me started was my portable work flood lights kept blowing quartz halogen bulbs. After a while that gets a little expensive. Plus I was tired burning my hands on them by trying to grab for the handle and missing. So I replaced the actual heads with two 150 watt LED floods. They're a little less bright but not for medically. No complaints. I bought two more 150 watt floods because they are better then the dedicated photography CFLs. I use daylight equivalent photography lights. 150 s were just a little bit brighter than the cfl's I had but still not as bright as I wanted. So I have my game in order to 300 watt flood lights. Okay now we're going. Believe it or not if you take a 300 watt in this case flood light imported into a reflective umbrella oh, you get a nice smooth light. No hotspots no Shadows. I have two umbrella for selector set up with the 300 watt floods. I use the to 150 watt floods for fill light. On the ceiling I have to 100 watt lights in the normal ceiling fixture. when everything is turned on the room doesn't get too hot and I get great pictures without a flash. I prefer the floods to a flash or slave flashes because you don't get the problem with red eye or people blinking. I've been very satisfied with my eBay flood lights. They were fairly inexpensive and they work I can't ask for more
I bought similar ones a couple years back. Yeah the voltage ain’t true and stuff, but it’s cheap and works fine, a lot of light and has been working fine for a couple of years.
I'll be setting up a new bench soon and I'd like this kind of flood lights, is there a way to tell whether they're with the smoothed drivers or not? Because the listings never mention it
I'd definitely imagine the flip chip LEDs make it easier for cheapo manufacturers to do a decent job. The ones with bond wires from quality manufacturers are extremely reliable, but the crappy ones are, well, crappy. When you're doing that many bond wires on such a low cost product something's going to give
Hi Clive i have just ordered a couple of the "higher qulity" led 5b10c..i have had poor results with the crappy early design cobs ..only lasting a few months at best, and only intermittant pir use..so not many real time hours at all..im getting fed up with having to get the ladders out and having to change the cobs..we will see if they have improved at all..going on what you have descovered with this type of cob .. we shal see if there is an improvement at all..time will tell.. cheers for the heads up on this type and sharing the info.
I still use my RS Components Safebloc. Very similar to your quick connector and it states "Made in England".
"Well that's interesting". Will have to take your word for it Clive, as though I love your vids, I haven't the faintest idea what you are talking about.
that reflector seems to be almost shorting the leads powering the LED out, when it's screwed in place... I hope there is something insulating on the other side.
Hahaha the power supply has the wire colors as brown and brue. Thumbs up for the excellent Engrish!
I recall an older video of yours in which you showed off new workbench video lights with a more pleasing color range. Are those the ones that have proven to be undependable?
you keep doin you Big C
Hey Clive
I reckon these lamps may as well do without the reflectors. They really don't add much to the spread of light.
I've just begun watching the video, my money is it will be no where near 50W. We will see if I'm proved wrong. Posting at the 1:11 minute mark. :)
Several years ago I redid a bunch of our outside lights with 12V 10W eBay floodlights. Actual DC power was closer to 8W. Several of the LED modules failed over time. As Clive reported broken bond wires, they tend to flicker when first turned on. Replaced then with better LED modules and been working fine for several years.
Watching this waiting for 3x 50w RGB with same casing to arrive. I will defo do a quick disection and check em inside. Couldnt resist as they where 12 € each.
@bigclive is that rivet type thing on the inside just above the cable inlet hole, not have been used for the location of the earth cable and just came loose?
The popular name for the Cliff Quick test and clones is a LEN box as that's what it says when the lid is open :)
Steve Perry But that's what it says in most single phase connection stuff.
I think mine predates the Cliff version. It's called a safeblock.
LEN = Line Earth Neutral ... the order of the connections, not the name of the item/manufacturer.
Clive, I finally figured out why they rate them 50 watts and they're only 20. The power factor of .56 makes them look to be drawing ~50 watts to the power company! 🤣
And to the customer's meter!
Power factor isn't an issue for the domestic market, we are only charged for the true power (in this case 20w).
Industrial market does get charged for apparent power, most industrial use is for things like electric motors which would be inductive loads that would give you a lagging pf, a capacitive dropper would be a leading pf, therefore it would compensate somewhat for the lagging pf of the inductive loads. When I was a colliery electrician, we had sodding great big capacitors in our sub-station that we'd have to switch in or out to compensate for the highly inductive loads from our transformers & electric motors.
Both my Yuji 50W leds died from the same gold bond wires burning up.
I was running them at 50W. Next ones i get i think i'll run them at 40W.
Thanks for sharing😀👍
"Where is the earth?"
*looks to the floor*
"I've spotted the earth!"
Hi Clive, another great video, nothing to do with this video but I have a question, I’m restoring a Revox A50 vintage amp but one of the metal case transistors have a leg broken/snapped, BC109 on the tone control board, Is there any difference between metal cased or plastic transistors? I would appreciate your help.
Hey Clive, slightly OT question. Bought a mix of cheapo chinese LED E27/GU10 cobs for mains use. Usually 68-70 LEDs in series. Fine, except the combined MTBF of 70 cheap LEDs isnt great. So I end up bridging a dead LED after a few months thus over driving the rest a smidge and away we go like thermal runaway. Anything I should look for in replacements that might make them a little more fault resistant?
The flex was pre molded into the driver?
So do they leave the earth out so it can be fitted with a lug and maybe earthed?
Going to involve a shock of some kind.
Nice one COBa
It's quite a expensive device the last time I looked, I think Clive keeps the price stable.
Hey Clive. Any chance of a link to the velcro wallet screwdriver set you used? Thanks
Why on Earth did they not earth it to Earth haha great video, always an instant like.
Population control measure..
They know how to beat UL listings lol
Honestly I was expecting it to be 10 watts like most of them are. So 20ish is a nice surprise. I reckon the housing could take 50 watts though, if it's as big as it looks from here. Since not all of that is going to be converted into heat.
Lidl are selling one for £12 that is 25w and has a PIR. It looks like tearing it down would be a one way journey and I need to use the one I have but if it ever dies (outside of its 3 year warranty) I will take it apart or send it in...
Clive: Would you consider reviewing a name-brand floodlight? The Osram ones (LEDVANCE) seem to be really good value.
These things are horrible. Best thing is to get one and replace it with a decent-ish chip and seal the bugger up well. On another note there are proper 50w floodlights on ebay for £30 or so. Made by Luceco, possibly even made in the UK (can't remember and it's 40ft up a pole at the minute) Had it a year, switched on every night all night and no issues thus far
Cliff really should sponsor you.
I often find that something meatier helps when desiring to deal with a tight screw.
I'm sure the newer style of COB's is more reliable but I believe the older style with the bond wires is better for eye candy (for those of us who drool over electronic components)
HOPI with the Back to The Future Computer Display...lol....Is Cool...
Nice
That's interesting!
Can you go over driver vs driverless COB setups?
saw an 80W cree one advertised the other day. it's specs say it draws 275ma at 12V :D :D
If you have any search terms for finding the new flip-chip LED COBs instead of the normal bond wire based ones I'd love to know them...or a seller that explicitly sells them. Had no luck guessing so far. As for the writing on the COB, the 5 or 2 as you mentioned is probably the 10's of watts, the B I have no idea, and the 10C is probably ten chips in series.
I was hoping there was going to be a magic keyword, but there isn't yet. The main seller of these on eBay seems to be:-
www.ebay.com/usr/cici-led-lighting
Who have them in amongst their other listings. Hopefully they will ship the new flip chip type and not the old bond wire type.
@@bigclivedotcom From some searching I have done since then (with the aid of some helpfully high-res photos) the ones that appear to be the flip-chip type are the square COB with the raised center and dam around the phosphor as opposed to the square-ish sunken-center ones w/tabs. Have yet to see bond wires on the former, almost always on the latter (if high enough res to see). The former also alludes to no bond wire with the spacing and placement combination (on some) as the wire ones are always in a straight line packed close together. So far just detective work with guessing until you or someone disassembles one of the square boards. You buy one from your seller to take apart, or plan to take some phosphor off the one in the vid?
@@IncertusetNescio Some just arrived today.
I got one the looks very similar the has 4 chips from my workplace industrial place I measured the power and it was pulling 380w and it was really bright but then it said made in usa with exported parts so I'm guessing that's why and it was grounded
Lets have a look at that screwdriver set!
I don’t even know why I am watching this video, but interestingly enough..... I am entertained.. 🧐🤔
The driver output is labelled "Brown-" and "Brue+" but the wires are red and black, and opposite polarity. Quality. I wonder if the live and neutral are backwards as well?
Do you ever return items or report misleading items on eBay? I know returning it probably isn't worth the time and hassle if it's so cheap but I'm curious
It might as well not be 50W, because I doubt that you could maintain 80-85C substrate temperature at 50W with that case unless Ta is reliably frigid.
To put this in perspective, the bonded-fin sinks I use for base-down passive operation have a base area of about 125x250mm, with 24 50mm tall fins. That's marginal for 60W at 50-55C.
Vertical orientation helps a lot, but with dinky cast fins, it doesn't mean much.
i have one and after 8 hours its still cool enough to touch
Forgive me for being doubtful, but "the heat sink is cool" tends to wind up being an indicator that input power is lower than expected or there's a significant thermal resistance between the heat source and the sink itself. For example, the latter is why cheap fake SSR's tend to run surprisingly cool.
In this specific case though, I'm assuming that yours is also operating at 20W and that "cool enough to touch" is approximately the same as saying "not too hot to touch". That's plausible. If those assumptions are wrong and it's actually dissipating 50W with e.g. 30C temp rise in still air, then I'm going to revert to being doubtful.
@@PSUQDPICHQIEIWC indeed mine was also not at the advertised 50 watts, for which I will forever be irritated. its closer to 30 watts measured.
by cool enough to touch, I do in fact mean you can put your hand on it without getting burned, but it still feels significantly hot.
but I was curious on why you seem to think that this heatsink, which is basically a large chunk of aluminum, couldnt support a 50 watt LED? especially since LEDs and their power supply are not 100% inefficient there will always be less than 50 watts of heat generated.
have you experience in using these LED chassis and heat dissipation was too low? I know that CPUs consume much more power than these LEDs but have no trouble getting rid of heat. that could be due to the radiator type cpu coolers though.
My assertion is just intuition based on my perception of its size and the assumption that substrate temperature should be kept below about 80-85C at some specified Ta at or above 50C. I don't have one and have not made measurements or in-depth calculations for one. I usually make the approximate assumption that Pthermal=Pelectrical*0.8 for calculations. I'm neglecting the losses in the driver, but since it's mounted to the same sink, that doesn't exactly counter my doubt. The description of the heat sinks I use at 60W was given for the sake of geometric comparison. Those have much more cooling area and are still marginal in their application.
Your latter point is a good case for demonstration. While CPU and LED cooling are both more challenging than say a simple transistor due to their lower allowable junction temperatures, CPU cooling is a lot less of a challenge than LED cooling for a couple reasons. First, clean air means you have the advantage of being able to use forced-air cooling which is a huge advantage. Second, the ambient air temperature is going to be somewhere in the ballpark of 30C.
While it's certainly possible to find a lighting application where Ta is constrained and fans are allowable, they are often not (specifically in my usage they aren't). In bay lighting applications, Ta can be above 60-65C, and inacessibility or insects or moisture may make fans a liability.
Surface area aside, the simple change from forced to natural convection tends to mean that the heat sink will become less "dense" -- that is to say that it will have fewer, larger fins with more space between them. Also, spreading the heat from a point load limits the benefit of an arbitrarily large passive sink. This is all made worse by the fact that natural convection benefits from having a large temperature difference between Tambient and Tsink -- something which is often unaffordable if Tsink has to stay relatively low.
You can dump 60W into a CPU cooler that fits in the palm of your hand, but a passive sink that's able to match the same base temperature at that power input will be huge. Disregarding orientation, contact area, and temperature rise for a moment, consider the admittedly strained comparison of nominal figures:
A 120mm single-fan cpu cooler with nominal 0.1 K/W thermal resistance:
www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835214064
This 430mm wide, 33mm tall extrusion profile with a 360mm length with natural convection would still have more than twice the thermal resistance (~0.23 K/W). That's a 17" x 1.3" x 14" heat sink. Given that this data assumes uniform heating and a 75C temp rise, that's optimistic!
www.shopaavid.com/Product/63340-full
Yes, I have a feeling that I'm far more conservative than most about keeping Tj within SOA at all times, and I accept that an individual can choose to accept any other range of operating points for their applications. Still, for risks to be accepted, they must first be acknowledged.
Sorry for the giant reply.
I’ve just exchanged a faulty 50w with built in PIR that has black spots on the cob, I can send it to you, it might make an interesting tear down
Ok ignore that last message it played all the way through this time.
Gutted I missed your live stream Clive, I wondered if you are going a meet n greet anytime soon?
Please do the UV version of this light!
There is a dedicated earth post near that wire... pity they didn’t put the screw in.
old type, lots of client choice good design
I find these newer cob chips allot more reliable than the older type.
Hi have you tested the radio controlled rgb floodlights from ebay, if not I would really appreciate your opinion. Thanks
Nice not too bad for the price
For a moment I thought it was going down the unboxing route.
I'd like to put the glass on upside down and remove the foil ,so it illuminates the wattage it isn't .
Ah, Brue and Brown for the DC output wires, I always wondered what china called Black and Red... :P
Haha, darn, this is even an expensive and 'fancy' version of such a floodlight. I bought 8 defective ones (different build-quality and different defects as well) for a bargain. 3 of them were like the ones you have Clive. BUT, the front is not glass, but plastic. There is no driver inside, but one of those driverless LEDchips, which has failed in all of them. In the first I opened, it's because the LED just isn't even mounted flush to the case: there is about 2 millimeters between LED and case, as the screws were too long to push the LED down. The others suffer from too much or no heat-sinking compound. It says 50 Watt on the housing. I ordered a 25 and 50 Watt white LED. With the 50 Watt LED properly mounted with compound and the right screws and underrunning it at 40 Watt from a MeanWell driver, I quickly aborted a testrun as the yellow surface of the LED quickly reached 85 degrees and was steadily climbing... The case was not too warm to touch...
The bracket to mount the thing is just soo flimsy one would not even want to mount it with a driver inside, as it will likely fold under the weight.
Is a 50W LED floodlight the default output setting for every factory in Shenzen? There seems to be a never ending list of variations on a theme. Pity none of them seem to be reliable.
The tiny rectangular LED chips they use in those COBs look to be no more than 100ma, so they are driving the heck out of them at their stated power rating.
They are running them at 100ma?
600ma input 6 strings of 10 diodes.
Blake Thomas It's 5 strings of 10. 50 LEDs, each driven around half a Watt but advertised as 1 W each.
@@johnfrancisdoe1563 Seams I miss herd. So ya 120ma each.
The case says 50w, but they used a 20w driver, likely because the case isn't a good enough heatsink for 50w
I have some 70w driver driver-less units (60hz here so the flicker isn't bad) and I've bean using forced air cooling.