There is an easier way. Insert the long bolt into the shaft and do it up almost all the way, leave a gap of about 2mm between the head of the bolt and the rotor bearing. Next give the bolt a couple of sharp taps with a ballpein (engineers) hammer. this will loosen the taper fit shaft of the generator to motor coupling and the rotor can be easily removed.
Ill try that idea instead of running out and buying a $20000 Leath. I hate when people make How To videos using equipment no one has! I couldn't get past the first 2 min of this video, he sounds like Biden talking to the camera.
Here is another odd idea. Stand the engine on its side with the armature facing up at we o'clock. fill the rotor hole with water completely to the top so no air will be there. Grab your bolt and wrap it good with Teflon tape. Crank the bolt down until you hear the armature pop. If you see water coming out of the thread, remove the bolt and put on more Teflon tape. It should pop. Cheers.
I have a duromax generator with a 110/220 switch that pairs the two fields, my engine went bad after several years of use in my motorcoach, I tried replacing it with a predator that was returned to harbour freight. But I found out that the harbour freight gen set won't pair fields. So I guess I'm going to use my old generator head and the predator engine and armature . Maybe it will work. Hope so it's hot outside and I need my generator to run my ac..
I know this vid is old...but holy cow I hope you get paid by the hour...just fill that dang hole with water and teflon seal the crap out of the bolt....the hydraulic pressure will pop it right off....man oh man....
I used a old stihl T27 tool that is for blowers and weedeaters, cut the round spark plug end . cut off clean used drill and angle grinder and smooth the end . keep the T27 side too find center hole then just get the correct size metric to push that cut off section into the crank center. gonna need impact to quick turn after getting snug , worked for me no fancy tools.
I made my own tools from a rod and a long bolt that became a press. The rod must fit inside the armature and not damage the threads or you will be sad, and have to find a metric tap to fix threads.
pcuser80 I'm recording with a Sony as200v. And that is what you look at to see what your recording or remote tip start stop recording Thanks for watching
If your not trying to save the armature there is a easy way that you just hammer on the beating and that arm falls right off didn't think that would work until I did it three days ago not so much shop time these a vid on here that's how I learned but it's not in English
Couldn't you just put a smaller piece of rod without threads in the hole, and chase it with the proper threaded bolt to push it out ? I have an old vintage Yamaha, I'm trying to solve this problem.
What camera are you using? It has a nice FOV. I had one in sunglasses but the FOV was very narrow and it only picked up things starting a few feet away. Thanks for the technique.
Thanks for watching This is the Sony Action camera AS200V I did a lot of side by side comparisons and this in my opinion beat the Gopro's I think people like the gopro's better only because of the name and popularity (dont get me wrong gopro's are great )
This worked like a charm on my Briggs & Stratton 205cc with tapered shaft. I was able to use a 3/8 24T to tap the arbor for the puller power bolt and didn't even need to drill first as it was already around 22/64ths which worked OK for a 3/8 24 tap as about 21.5/64ths (Q) is ideal. The rod I prepared was a little soft and so recommend using a long bolt around 5/16 and grind down the end to fit inside the treads on the output shaft the generator arbor fits on with a taper fit. My rod bent some inside the 5/16 24 treads and slightly damaged the threads inside of the engine shaft, but only barely. It cleaned up well with a 5/16 24 tap but mileage will vary as to thread pitch and sizes on these engines. Important to use a ball bearing under the 3/8" 24 or larger bolt used to push the rod. I used fine threads for the power pushing bolt in order to not be pushing too much at once. Used a small impact gun with only about 50 lbs power to help with vibrations and it came right off. My unit was rusty as well but this technique really worked! I did use rust penetrant down the arbor and turned up the motor and let the fluid sit for about an hour before I continued to remove the arbor. Not sure if this helped or not to use a rust dissolving fluid,, but seems like a good idea for an older motor. Cheap replacement motors can be hard to find with a tapered output shaft, so I may just overhaul my Briggs, depending upon what I find that is creating the metal shavings inside. It runs basically OK and output is OK but burns some oil and keeps creating aluminum in the oil. Maybe just needs a new rod and rings?
Awesome glad it worked for you. Sounds like rings. Do a compression test (if you don't have a tester you should be able to rent one from your local auto parts store) then just hone the engine with new rings and good to go
Tks for the speedy reply! Yes, I have a compression tester and will give it a try. The motor feels like it has good compression. Sometimes it is hard to pull start as the cord will stop coming out for me and the handle will slip out of my hand with too much resistance. Odd, but usually starts easily when cold, more problematic when hot between adding gas. It maintains RPM OK for volts, 121 volts at idle, 116 V at 20 amps draw. Loud as shucks so need to build an enclosure and maybe route the exhaust through an old muffler to see if this works. It is mainly just for back-up power. Currently when power is down I just run it in my garage with the door closed and poison my smarter rats (who ignore my PB traps) as a side-benefit from all of the CO produced. Sound of the running generator is OK inside my closed garage, except for the rats, of course, who, being the smart ones I can't trap, probably just go outside and hang out trolling cats until the city power comes back on.
@@gedgetips I'm sure you know you will get carbon dioxide poisoning running it in an enclosed area such as your garage. So run it outside your garage and have the power cords run outside to it.
You made it more complicated 😂, I have a great idea for disassemble it. Take a wooden piece between ground and motor and hammer on top with another wood stick make sure you have balanced the motor as it horizontal
Hi. I have a diesel generator which broke a piston. I want to take advantage of the whole unit, eliminate the diesel motor and put in a gasoline motor. Anybody can help me out? Thanks
the tap and turn method takes about 1 to 2 minutes and is used by every repair tech not in a factory. All other methods take to long. you can find it on youtube on the generator repair under urdu hindi. Which is the country that they make all these generators.
I would like to fix my generator head to my engine in my RV so I have access while driving so I can power things in my RV while driving. Any ideas how to make a bearing for the drive end? Maybe cut a old crankshaft apart and use part of the case? Turning it on a large to install a roller bearing would be nice then matching the end for a pulley would be great. Just thinking how I can get 4000 watts of power off my engine in my rv
Ive seen racers install an alternator to the drive shaft with pulleys and belt. Only thing is it wont charge unless its moving. but it could do the same thing. Normally there isn't a lot of room in the engine bay for fabricating.
You said "thinking I want my money that I nested and knowledge and BS" maybe I misunderstood you (again your writing communication skills need a lot of work either way) But to me it sounded like you were saying I wasted your time and you were being sarcastic in wanting your money back and I didn't know what I was talking about. Again please correct me if I'm wrong.
You get the bolts out after the arm is off they only hold the rear of the armature case on really not important to mess with until the arm is off learn from trial and error
lo mejor sin hacer herramienta es , hechar wd 40 en el agujero , dejar trabajar y darle , golpes en los extremos a la bobina central con un martillo de plastico o goma , consecutivamente varios golpes y asi saldra al cabo de 1° o 2°minutos
You're a troll. If you're too ignorant to follow directions. I cant help you and hold your hand. I dont do these vidoes for me. I know how to do this stuff.
I said a troll not a robot. A Troll is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting quarrels or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory,[1] extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the intent of provoking readers into an emotional response[2] or of otherwise disrupting normal, on-topic discussion,[3] often for the troll's amusement.
Good work muy friend i like this chanel can you healp me on muy eléctrica generador 3500wats i remplace capacitor AMD no poder comí g out so i remube field yo chek rotor tell me how yo test please thankth you from Joel Cardona victoria Tamaulipas mx.
Johel Garcia I'd check the field windings for resistance. ( you'd have to contact the manufacture for the specs) also look and see if they are burned up or discolored. thanks for the comment good luck my friend
![[UNCUT] “บอสณวัฒน์” ลากไส้!! ใครหนุนหลัง "แม่ตั๊ก ป๋าเบียร์" I คนดังนั่งเคลียร์ I 30 ก.ย. 67](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QlD7mU2KKRk/mqdefault.jpg)
There is an easier way. Insert the long bolt into the shaft and do it up almost all the way, leave a gap of about 2mm between the head of the bolt and the rotor bearing. Next give the bolt a couple of sharp taps with a ballpein (engineers) hammer. this will loosen the taper fit shaft of the generator to motor coupling and the rotor can be easily removed.
Ill try that idea instead of running out and buying a $20000 Leath. I hate when people make How To videos using equipment no one has! I couldn't get past the first 2 min of this video, he sounds like Biden talking to the camera.
Here is another odd idea.
Stand the engine on its side with the armature facing up at we o'clock.
fill the rotor hole with water completely to the top so no air will be there. Grab your bolt and wrap it good with Teflon tape. Crank the bolt down until you hear the armature pop. If you see water coming out of the thread, remove the bolt and put on more Teflon tape. It should pop. Cheers.
Just sayin', for safety sake, clean up that shop a bit! Too many trip hazards!
Come on over
too much complications, 1 screw milimetric, teflon and water that's it.
Cool Do you have a video?
This noon I did it with water,teflon tape and bolt,it worked amazing.
Check video from James Condon.
Great info that worked thank you, but what brand is your watch that your wearing in this video.
Glad I could help.
That's my action camera remote.
Thanks that was very helpful. Popped mine off in no time with this method.
Awesome glad I could help. Thanks for watching
Looks like you're having fun on the lathe!
Oh Lord at this point thats all it is Ha Ha
sixtyfiveford th-cam.com/video/8nH4cwFwPCg/w-d-xo.html
Profesor la resistencia 20 k y el diodo de 6 ampers están en el rotor p una gama 950 generador gracia no hablo ingles
I have a duromax generator with a 110/220 switch that pairs the two fields, my engine went bad after several years of use in my motorcoach, I tried replacing it with a predator that was returned to harbour freight. But I found out that the harbour freight gen set won't pair fields. So I guess I'm going to use my old generator head and the predator engine and armature . Maybe it will work. Hope so it's hot outside and I need my generator to run my ac..
I know this vid is old...but holy cow I hope you get paid by the hour...just fill that dang hole with water and teflon seal the crap out of the bolt....the hydraulic pressure will pop it right off....man oh man....
Great tip. I'll have to try that next time.
I think I would try water first, then grease and last this way with a rod
I'm wanting to know what that black beauty you are working next to is?
Oh the 1980 corvette.....yeah I have a few videos on that. 430hp.....it's a fun car
@@2LateIWon SCHWING!!! AWESOME THANKS 👍
Thank you very much this really helps, finally able to take the alternator off my generator set for engine rebuild
Tonny Cassidy awesome glad I was able to help. Good luck
2LateIWon/Organized Chaos thanks, im in for a surprise, dismantled the engine and found a puddle of oil on top of the piston and many more issues
I used a old stihl T27 tool that is for blowers and weedeaters, cut the round spark plug end . cut off clean used drill and angle grinder and smooth the end . keep the T27 side too find center hole then just get the correct size metric to push that cut off section into the crank center. gonna need impact to quick turn after getting snug , worked for me no fancy tools.
I made my own tools from a rod and a long bolt that became a press. The rod must fit inside the armature and not damage the threads or you will be sad, and have to find a metric tap to fix threads.
su taller se parece al mio en el reguero
What kind of watch you are wearing? Never seen it before.
pcuser80 I'm recording with a Sony as200v. And that is what you look at to see what your recording or remote tip start stop recording
Thanks for watching
It is a potable phone my brother
Eric Ngebong lol not quite but thanks for watching
If your not trying to save the armature there is a easy way that you just hammer on the beating and that arm falls right off didn't think that would work until I did it three days ago not so much shop time these a vid on here that's how I learned but it's not in English
Couldn't you just put a smaller piece of rod without threads in the hole, and chase it with the proper threaded bolt to push it out ? I have an old vintage Yamaha, I'm trying to solve this problem.
No entiendo cómo hay gente, que trabaje con semejante desorden
Don't know what you said but thanks for watching
What camera are you using? It has a nice FOV. I had one in sunglasses but the FOV was very narrow and it only picked up things starting a few feet away.
Thanks for the technique.
Thanks for watching This is the Sony Action camera AS200V I did a lot of side by side comparisons and this in my opinion beat the Gopro's I think people like the gopro's better only because of the name and popularity (dont get me wrong gopro's are great )
So good. I needed so much man. Now, hands to job in Chile. Like👍 like👍 like👍 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
Awesome glad I was able to help
Hi i'm in chile can i help you in your job
*_BRAVO MAJSTORE. SUPER._*
This worked like a charm on my Briggs & Stratton 205cc with tapered shaft. I was able to use a 3/8 24T to tap the arbor for the puller power bolt and didn't even need to drill first as it was already around 22/64ths which worked OK for a 3/8 24 tap as about 21.5/64ths (Q) is ideal. The rod I prepared was a little soft and so recommend using a long bolt around 5/16 and grind down the end to fit inside the treads on the output shaft the generator arbor fits on with a taper fit. My rod bent some inside the 5/16 24 treads and slightly damaged the threads inside of the engine shaft, but only barely. It cleaned up well with a 5/16 24 tap but mileage will vary as to thread pitch and sizes on these engines. Important to use a ball bearing under the 3/8" 24 or larger bolt used to push the rod. I used fine threads for the power pushing bolt in order to not be pushing too much at once. Used a small impact gun with only about 50 lbs power to help with vibrations and it came right off. My unit was rusty as well but this technique really worked! I did use rust penetrant down the arbor and turned up the motor and let the fluid sit for about an hour before I continued to remove the arbor. Not sure if this helped or not to use a rust dissolving fluid,, but seems like a good idea for an older motor. Cheap replacement motors can be hard to find with a tapered output shaft, so I may just overhaul my Briggs, depending upon what I find that is creating the metal shavings inside. It runs basically OK and output is OK but burns some oil and keeps creating aluminum in the oil. Maybe just needs a new rod and rings?
Awesome glad it worked for you. Sounds like rings. Do a compression test (if you don't have a tester you should be able to rent one from your local auto parts store) then just hone the engine with new rings and good to go
Tks for the speedy reply! Yes, I have a compression tester and will give it a try. The motor feels like it has good compression. Sometimes it is hard to pull start as the cord will stop coming out for me and the handle will slip out of my hand with too much resistance. Odd, but usually starts easily when cold, more problematic when hot between adding gas. It maintains RPM OK for volts, 121 volts at idle, 116 V at 20 amps draw. Loud as shucks so need to build an enclosure and maybe route the exhaust through an old muffler to see if this works. It is mainly just for back-up power. Currently when power is down I just run it in my garage with the door closed and poison my smarter rats (who ignore my PB traps) as a side-benefit from all of the CO produced. Sound of the running generator is OK inside my closed garage, except for the rats, of course, who, being the smart ones I can't trap, probably just go outside and hang out trolling cats until the city power comes back on.
@@gedgetips I'm sure you know you will get carbon dioxide poisoning running it in an enclosed area such as your garage. So run it outside your garage and have the power cords run outside to it.
Gracias profe
You made it more complicated 😂,
I have a great idea for disassemble it.
Take a wooden piece between ground and motor and hammer on top with another wood stick make sure you have balanced the motor as it horizontal
Hi. I have a diesel generator which broke a piston. I want to take advantage of the whole unit, eliminate the diesel motor and put in a gasoline motor. Anybody can help me out? Thanks
the tap and turn method takes about 1 to 2 minutes and is used by every repair tech not in a factory. All other methods take to long. you can find it on youtube on the generator repair under urdu hindi. Which is the country that they make all these generators.
Is it easy to convert a harbor freight engine into a generator engine?
Thanks for share
Generator Repairing Course Part # 2 [ Rotor And Stator Out ] ( Urdu / Hindi ) here is what you need.
i think your probation officer put the monitor on the wrong limb. lol great video
Gary Lee lol. I'm using a action camera this is my remote LOL that was funny
i know . i have a gopro. i could not help myself when the last comment was "what kind of watch are you wearing?"
Gary Lee lol yeah i get that comment a lot
Gary Lee th-cam.com/video/8nH4cwFwPCg/w-d-xo.html
That’s badass
I can't get the outside casing (stater) off.
help I not able to part 5 or 6 and 7 of your Generator series. Can you help. Thank You
th-cam.com/video/V6LOZDghTCw/w-d-xo.html here is part 5
th-cam.com/video/x_dKu15ggSE/w-d-xo.html part 7
th-cam.com/video/cc4W-P1tMq4/w-d-xo.html Summery
not sure where part 6 is unless part 7 is part 6 and the summary is part 7
still will cut off the crankstaft
use the other end to pull
do not mess with bearings
Crap ahora para poder sacar el generador del motro tendre que comprar un torno y un juego de machos, quede peor!
Way easier to get the bolt holding it on cut the head off and use a punch. They make bolts everyday and way quicker to get a replacement
Didn't mention cutting a slit in the bolt to use a flathead screw driver to run it down
using google for buisness purposes they already have mine
still challenge who can do, from replacing a motor obsolete to a new one
I would like to fix my generator head to my engine in my RV so I have access while driving so I can power things in my RV while driving. Any ideas how to make a bearing for the drive end? Maybe cut a old crankshaft apart and use part of the case? Turning it on a large to install a roller bearing would be nice then matching the end for a pulley would be great. Just thinking how I can get 4000 watts of power off my engine in my rv
Ive seen racers install an alternator to the drive shaft with pulleys and belt. Only thing is it wont charge unless its moving. but it could do the same thing. Normally there isn't a lot of room in the engine bay for fabricating.
Thanks for this description
ahmad ahmad no problem hippie it helped you out. Good luck
Muy exelente ilustración muy explícita
if it does not work the company has to replaace it
i will buy one ut i am in my youn phoase of something
bake or resoder in epoxy if you know show he world
Great
Thanks for watching hope it helped at least a little bit.
i should cut the shaft to the engine it is blown up
excelente método de extracción de rotores de grupos electrogenos
Buenas me gustó mucho tu vídeo
i never insulted anyone or questioned any of the videos why i am called that it is of wanting more information
You said "thinking I want my money that I nested and knowledge and BS" maybe I misunderstood you (again your writing communication skills need a lot of work either way) But to me it sounded like you were saying I wasted your time and you were being sarcastic in wanting your money back and I didn't know what I was talking about. Again please correct me if I'm wrong.
i do not wanto buy one
the only secret you have is mine lol
did you mark everything
remember the adapter housing
keep the things module
they did not pay attention lol
how did you get the four bolts behind the armature? Didn't anyone notice?
A long extension I was able to fit between the arbor and the case. Sorry I didnt show that.
You get the bolts out after the arm is off they only hold the rear of the armature case on really not important to mess with until the arm is off learn from trial and error
Soe
?
still do not get it
Молодец!
Ты мне очень помог. Особенно идея обточить шпильку с резьбой, чтобы нп повредить резьбу в двигателе.
👍👍👍
lo mejor sin hacer herramienta es , hechar wd 40 en el agujero , dejar trabajar y darle , golpes en los extremos a la bobina central con un martillo de plastico o goma , consecutivamente varios golpes y asi saldra al cabo de 1° o 2°minutos
I have no idea what you said but thanks for watching
traducirlo al ingles , Yo lo he hecho
very nice sir
Zahir Khan. thanks and thanks for watching
Zahir Khan th-cam.com/video/8nH4cwFwPCg/w-d-xo.html
Excelente explicación,muy bueno el vídeo.
threded rod
where is part 1
th-cam.com/video/vNS65-S4mEg/w-d-xo.html
a long shaft buit into the motor so all i have to do is cut
You're a troll. If you're too ignorant to follow directions. I cant help you and hold your hand. I dont do these vidoes for me. I know how to do this stuff.
good thing you do not know how to mark a motor for everthing alighn
if i am a troll you would not have me responding back
English, please. I cant dumb down to your level of illiterate writing. What are you 7 years old?
I said a troll not a robot. A Troll is a person who sows discord on the Internet by starting quarrels or upsetting people, by posting inflammatory,[1] extraneous, or off-topic messages in an online community (such as a newsgroup, forum, chat room, or blog) with the intent of provoking readers into an emotional response[2] or of otherwise disrupting normal, on-topic discussion,[3] often for the troll's amusement.
probably like the flywheel
Motor want fire
Good work muy friend i like this chanel can you healp me on muy eléctrica generador 3500wats i remplace capacitor AMD no poder comí g out so i remube field yo chek rotor tell me how yo test please thankth you from Joel Cardona victoria Tamaulipas mx.
Johel Garcia I'd check the field windings for resistance. ( you'd have to contact the manufacture for the specs) also look and see if they are burned up or discolored. thanks for the comment good luck my friend
Oh jzzzz! Oh jzzzz!
This video is interesting.
Lol.
Onu from lagos Nigeria.
LOL thanks for watching
alumininum fins help lol microprocessors