Affiliate link: Traxxas Revo 3.3: bit.ly/3OT0Ewg We've finished the break-in of the Revo, let's take it to the BMX track and turn some laps and see how it drives! #traxxas #traxxasrevo
What you need to understand is that with a lot of the tuning videos from the likes of JQ, Rajaa111, RWMods (RIP), Drake, etc the videos are featuring "long low speed" needle carbs. Absolutely NO ONE that makes tuning videos explains this or what it means nor what carb type they will be showing you as an example. Traxxas carb is technically a "Short low speed" needle carb even though it practically has no needle compared to other short speed needle carbs. What this means is that you can't tune a short low speed needle carb like you would a long low speed needle carb. Yes, ideally you want the idle to lay down but you go about a different way with the two versions of carbs. In the case of the 3.3, after you set a small idle gap via the idle screw, you then rely on the LSN to tune your idle as if it's the idle screw if that makes sense. This information is much more difficult to find because literally NO ONE points this out or shows examples of it.
Today a coworker of mine decided to give me one of these completely out of the blue. Just needs the ez-start battery handle thingie. Quite excited, my first nitro. Also, I can kiss goodbye to my good relations with my neighbours. WROOM WROOM!
The operating temps should be at 270ish, I run my engines at around 245-280 depending on the day. here the guide, I’ve just copied this from a file on my computer so sorry if there are some inconsistencies with your problems. (I'll share this around hopefully it helps. Cheers) now, for the idle being too high or too low, first set it back to factory which is 4 turns out on the high speed needle and 1.75 turns out on the low speed, start the truck and run it around to let it warm up, once you have it warmed up bring it in and let it idle, if it's to high you will need to turn the idle screw out maybe 1/4 or 1/8th of a turn, and see how it's idling then, if you can’t get the truck to start, give it a little bit of throttle, once the engine is warm it should start up very easily. then one you have it idling you can start tuning, when your tuning, go in very small increments at a time, and ALWAYS tune the high-speed needle first, I usually go by 1/12 or 1/16th of a turn at a time, but must guys go 1/8th of a turn, after each adjustment do a few high-speed passes, take very careful note of 3 things. 1. the performance, has it gotten better or worse? when you start getting the rpm up does it sound like it's cutting out? if it sounds like it's cutting out then you are to lean and need to richen the HSN, if it is loading up and the performance is very sluggish then it is rich and you can go a little leaner 2. the smoke trail, there should always be a nice, clearly visible trail of blue smoke coming from the exhaust, always, if you cannot see a good trail of smoke, it is another sign of being to lean, if you’ve a lot of smoke at all rpms then you can go a little leaner 3. the temperature, since this is your first nitro truck it is a good idea, you get a good, reliable temp gauge, the engine should not go over 270 degrees F, if it does it is another sign of being to lean and you should richen it up just a little bit, but something most people over look is that you should not run under 190 degrees, if you do the piston sleeve doesn't expand enough and the engine will wear out very quickly. a last note on the high-speed needle is, never tune by one symptom alone, never tune just by performance, or smoke trail or temp, use at least two, so if you lean the engine out and the temps go from 220 to 230, and you note it's a little more powerful and go a little leaner, the only time you should ever tune by using just one symptom is when: A: you run to lean and the engine start hesitating and cutting out B: the temp goes above 290 degrees F in both cases you need to richen the HSN by at least 1/8th of a turn if not more. now for tuning the low-speed needle one the high-speed needle is set to where you want it, you can start with the low speed, start off at the factory setting, and just like the HSN tune in small increments of at least 1/8th of a turn, if not smaller, when tuning the low speed, you are aiming for a nice crisp throttle response, if you run the low speed to lean you will eat through glow plugs very quickly and it can damage your engine. once you start getting close to what you think is the best throttle response, tune in smaller increments, once you get it so as soon as you touch the throttle the engine start revving up and doesn't bog down at all, so as soon as you hit the gas, the truck takes off, once you get to that point do not lean it any further, and for a safe guard i like to richen it by 1/16 of a turn. to test to see if the low-speed needle is set to rich or to lean you need to do the pinch test, all you do is pinch the fuel line, and count how many seconds it takes for the engine to die, when you pinch the fuel line, the engine should idle normally for a second or two, then just before it dies it should rev up a few hundred rpm, then die on the count of 3. if the engine dies in 2 seconds or less, or does not rev up at all, you are to lean and need to richen the low-speed needle, if the engine takes more than 3 or 4 seconds to die, you are too rich and can lean the engine out a bit more. for then engine not start, check to see if the glow plugs good, to do that just take the plug out, connect it to the blue glow wire, hold the glow plug up against the cooling head, insert the starter wand into the truck and press the red button, if the wire in the plug glows it's good, if it doesn’t you need a new plug, if the plugs good it may be because the engine is flooded, so you need to take the glow plug out, pinch the flue line, turn the truck upside down and turn it over with the start wand and see if that helps. once you have done all your tuning you might have to set the idle again, if you do just follow the steps I posted at the top of the page, you should never have to touch the idle screw unless the truck is idling high enough for the clutch to engage, or that low it won’t start.
Kinda funny they haven't updated this vehicle in like over a decade. The 3.3 was an increase in power over the original motor. I had one years ago and shoe horned in a .28. I can't recommend this truck as it's performance for cost is pretty bad. Traxxas really should have made it more upgrade friendly for those wanting equivalent power to other monster trucks and truggies. It still looks slow with almost no low end grunt to clear jumps.
I would say good on you for trying nitro it is a finicky beast I ran nitro for about 10 years and kinda give up cause of electrics getting so good but I also recently bought a nitro and it’s a Blast but not for the the beginner rcer let’s bring back the nitros!
Mine has the the OS21TM engine. More torque and power and more easily tuned. Bonus, it holds a tune way better. They made a direct swap for the Revo. So much better.
Great fun lots of wrenching required.. To make this puppy crank follow these basics: Sway bar kit front & read (needs wing) set to middle ride height, more or less max out toe/caster etc..essentially follow the Traxxas Pit Stop info for set up details, it’ll definitely drive much better. For performance OS make a killer engine for it which will do wheelies all day long and smoke any electric Maxx 😂. If your keeping the original 3.3 load a OS 11k carb and you’ll be more than happy also add performance slipper clutch and stainless 2 or 3 peace clutch to help engagement and do t forget to gear up for maximum top speed. Rock on USA 🇺🇸
A lean low speed needle will cause the rpm’s to not go down like it should. Also a small air leak in the carb, fuel line or fuel tank will cause that. Or even one of the engine seals
Id say, get your lsn tuned (pinch test) then work on the hsn. Top end seems rich, doesn't sound like she's 'clearing out'. I don't think the 3.3 is really suited to this truck, though, just not enough grunt for a truck this size. I almost think the 2.5R would be a better match? Regardless, about time Traxxas revamped this model to compete with more modern offerings! Fun run, thanks 👍
Pretty dang cool 👍 That last run down the rhythm section was NIIICE 🔥 Landed on the back tires beautifully. Nice driving 🔥👍 I always loved the way the shocks design looks. Do you think they work well and are less likely to break, not only the shock itself but the mounts etc 🤔 Happy 4th ✌️
Seems the idle is coming down quite nicely from the running footage you showed here. Don't know how much you've messed with your tune since, definitely seems you could go a bit leaner on that high speed needle, but I think maybe what you might be missing here is the LSN. Seems to me to be a bit lean. Leaning the high speed would help a bit with the shifting, but I'd also richen up that low speed a bit, and I think you'd get a bit of a snappier response on the bottom end, and help the engine run a little smoother and better overall. Either that or you're just driving really funny on the throttle, but seems to me there should be more from the bottom end. These TRX 3.3 engines are definitely a little weird to get right sometimes and they like to be run very rich.
Love your videos, I have been thinking of getting back into a Nitro ! Looking at one for a good basher and play truck , would you recommend this one ! Had a Nitro Savage SS and a nitro rustler long time ago !
Botajell has videos on nitro and always willing to give any info on nitro and is definitely the man when it comes to anything gas and nitro engines.. just purchased the TLR Typhon after I decide on a good 6s set up for bashing, I've been thinking about one of the Traxxas nitro!
Can’t get my 3.3 to draw fuel from the tank. All new fuel line, fuel tank lid gasket, plumb fuel properly. Motor has good compression and ran last year. Any ideas?
Make sure fuel lines are connected where they should be, return to factory settings. Remove air filter and drop a little bit of fuel directly in the carb
The bronze sintered filter inside the tank is probably gummed with congealed fuel from your last running season. Rubbing alcohol or carb cleaner spray doesn the trick. Fill it 1/4 and shake it. Let it soak. Or grab a new tank
Also, in addition to what others have said, check the carb. Make sure it's not blocked, no cracks/air leaks, and that it is seated properly in the engine. If everything is set up properly, when you plug the exhaust or fully cover the air filter and crank the engine, it should suck fuel right into it.
@@NerfCraft thanks for the help. I have found that when I blow into the tube from the exhaust to the fuel tank cap it is plugged up does not pass any air. Tomorrow I’m going to check the gas tank cap and see where it is blocked.
LMAO, where do you guys get your information? From the Traxxas forums? The Revo is not the original monster truck, that goes to the Original Kyosho USA-1. Truggys are not based off Revos, at all. The original Revo was released in 2004. The GS Racing Storm Unlimited Truck or "UTS" was released in 2002 and is the father of the truggy platform as we know it today. It was so successful that it was banned from running in monster trucks classes during the height of MT racing and lead to the creation of a separate class known as "truggy." Yes, the GS Racing UTS was smoking Tmaxx's, Savage's and Revo's at the track.
What you need to understand is that with a lot of the tuning videos from the likes of JQ, Rajaa111, RWMods (RIP), Drake, etc the videos are featuring "long low speed" needle carbs. Absolutely NO ONE that makes tuning videos explains this or what it means nor what carb type they will be showing you as an example. Traxxas carb is technically a "Short low speed" needle carb even though it practically has no needle compared to other short speed needle carbs. What this means is that you can't tune a short low speed needle carb like you would a long low speed needle carb. Yes, ideally you want the idle to lay down but you go about a different way with the two versions of carbs. In the case of the 3.3, after you set a small idle gap via the idle screw, you then rely on the LSN to tune your idle as if it's the idle screw if that makes sense. This information is much more difficult to find because literally NO ONE points this out or shows examples of it.
excellent info, very helpful!
Davidrc has a video on how to tune a long low speed needle carb. He’s one of the few that knows what he’s doing
Tuning is definitely an art one guy can make the tune look easy and a another can spend all day decking it
Today a coworker of mine decided to give me one of these completely out of the blue. Just needs the ez-start battery handle thingie. Quite excited, my first nitro. Also, I can kiss goodbye to my good relations with my neighbours. WROOM WROOM!
I found that an OS 11k card and OS plug makes this engine run so good and it’s so easy tune with those upgrades
Revo was built to race against the early truggys. During the proline maxx challenge days.
RE: Tuning woes with REVO 3.3
The operating temps should be at 270ish, I run my engines at around 245-280 depending on the day.
here the guide, I’ve just copied this from a file on my computer so sorry if there are some inconsistencies with your problems. (I'll share this around hopefully it helps. Cheers)
now, for the idle being too high or too low, first set it back to factory which is 4 turns out on the high speed needle and 1.75 turns out on the low speed, start the truck and run it around to let it warm up, once you have it warmed up bring it in and let it idle, if it's to high you will need to turn the idle screw out maybe 1/4 or 1/8th of a turn, and see how it's idling then, if you can’t get the truck to start, give it a little bit of throttle, once the engine is warm it should start up very easily.
then one you have it idling you can start tuning, when your tuning, go in very small increments at a time, and ALWAYS tune the high-speed needle first, I usually go by 1/12 or 1/16th of a turn at a time, but must guys go 1/8th of a turn, after each adjustment do a few high-speed passes, take very careful note of 3 things.
1. the performance, has it gotten better or worse? when you start getting the rpm up does it sound like it's cutting out? if it sounds like it's cutting out then you are to lean and need to richen the HSN, if it is loading up and the performance is very sluggish then it is rich and you can go a little leaner
2. the smoke trail, there should always be a nice, clearly visible trail of blue smoke coming from the exhaust, always, if you cannot see a good trail of smoke, it is another sign of being to lean, if you’ve a lot of smoke at all rpms then you can go a little leaner
3. the temperature, since this is your first nitro truck it is a good idea, you get a good, reliable temp gauge, the engine should not go over 270 degrees F, if it does it is another sign of being to lean and you should richen it up just a little bit, but something most people over look is that you should not run under 190 degrees, if you do the piston sleeve doesn't expand enough and the engine will wear out very quickly.
a last note on the high-speed needle is, never tune by one symptom alone, never tune just by performance, or smoke trail or temp, use at least two, so if you lean the engine out and the temps go from 220 to 230, and you note it's a little more powerful and go a little leaner, the only time you should ever tune by using just one symptom is when:
A: you run to lean and the engine start hesitating and cutting out
B: the temp goes above 290 degrees F
in both cases you need to richen the HSN by at least 1/8th of a turn if not more.
now for tuning the low-speed needle
one the high-speed needle is set to where you want it, you can start with the low speed, start off at the factory setting, and just like the HSN tune in small increments of at least 1/8th of a turn, if not smaller, when tuning the low speed, you are aiming for a nice crisp throttle response, if you run the low speed to lean you will eat through glow plugs very quickly and it can damage your engine.
once you start getting close to what you think is the best throttle response, tune in smaller increments, once you get it so as soon as you touch the throttle the engine start revving up and doesn't bog down at all, so as soon as you hit the gas, the truck takes off, once you get to that point do not lean it any further, and for a safe guard i like to richen it by 1/16 of a turn.
to test to see if the low-speed needle is set to rich or to lean you need to do the pinch test, all you do is pinch the fuel line, and count how many seconds it takes for the engine to die, when you pinch the fuel line, the engine should idle normally for a second or two, then just before it dies it should rev up a few hundred rpm, then die on the count of 3.
if the engine dies in 2 seconds or less, or does not rev up at all, you are to lean and need to richen the low-speed needle, if the engine takes more than 3 or 4 seconds to die, you are too rich and can lean the engine out a bit more.
for then engine not start, check to see if the glow plugs good, to do that just take the plug out, connect it to the blue glow wire, hold the glow plug up against the cooling head, insert the starter wand into the truck and press the red button, if the wire in the plug glows it's good, if it doesn’t you need a new plug, if the plugs good it may be because the engine is flooded, so you need to take the glow plug out, pinch the flue line, turn the truck upside down and turn it over with the start wand and see if that helps.
once you have done all your tuning you might have to set the idle again, if you do just follow the steps I posted at the top of the page, you should never have to touch the idle screw unless the truck is idling high enough for the clutch to engage, or that low it won’t start.
Kinda funny they haven't updated this vehicle in like over a decade. The 3.3 was an increase in power over the original motor. I had one years ago and shoe horned in a .28. I can't recommend this truck as it's performance for cost is pretty bad. Traxxas really should have made it more upgrade friendly for those wanting equivalent power to other monster trucks and truggies. It still looks slow with almost no low end grunt to clear jumps.
I would say good on you for trying nitro it is a finicky beast I ran nitro for about 10 years and kinda give up cause of electrics getting so good but I also recently bought a nitro and it’s a Blast but not for the the beginner rcer let’s bring back the nitros!
Mine has the the OS21TM engine. More torque and power and more easily tuned. Bonus, it holds a tune way better.
They made a direct swap for the Revo. So much better.
that upgrade looks awesome, the 3.3 is definitely lacking in quality and performace
Great fun lots of wrenching required.. To make this puppy crank follow these basics: Sway bar kit front & read (needs wing) set to middle ride height, more or less max out toe/caster etc..essentially follow the Traxxas Pit Stop info for set up details, it’ll definitely drive much better. For performance OS make a killer engine for it which will do wheelies all day long and smoke any electric Maxx 😂. If your keeping the original 3.3 load a OS 11k carb and you’ll be more than happy also add performance slipper clutch and stainless 2 or 3 peace clutch to help engagement and do t forget to gear up for maximum top speed. Rock on USA 🇺🇸
A lean low speed needle will cause the rpm’s to not go down like it should. Also a small air leak in the carb, fuel line or fuel tank will cause that. Or even one of the engine seals
So which do you prefer, electric or Nitro?
Now time to build a old school nitro racing monster truck!!! Like the early 2000s when everyone was racing them.
Id say, get your lsn tuned (pinch test) then work on the hsn. Top end seems rich, doesn't sound like she's 'clearing out'. I don't think the 3.3 is really suited to this truck, though, just not enough grunt for a truck this size. I almost think the 2.5R would be a better match? Regardless, about time Traxxas revamped this model to compete with more modern offerings! Fun run, thanks 👍
Get a OS .21TM. Awesome engine. I highly recommend getting it.
That or a Force 28Max
Nice video bro love the bmx track looks so much fun for bashing 🙏😎
Pretty dang cool 👍 That last run down the rhythm section was NIIICE 🔥 Landed on the back tires beautifully. Nice driving 🔥👍 I always loved the way the shocks design looks. Do you think they work well and are less likely to break, not only the shock itself but the mounts etc 🤔
Happy 4th ✌️
I see a Revo 3.3 vs Revo Brushless conversion battle coming!
Seems the idle is coming down quite nicely from the running footage you showed here. Don't know how much you've messed with your tune since, definitely seems you could go a bit leaner on that high speed needle, but I think maybe what you might be missing here is the LSN. Seems to me to be a bit lean. Leaning the high speed would help a bit with the shifting, but I'd also richen up that low speed a bit, and I think you'd get a bit of a snappier response on the bottom end, and help the engine run a little smoother and better overall. Either that or you're just driving really funny on the throttle, but seems to me there should be more from the bottom end. These TRX 3.3 engines are definitely a little weird to get right sometimes and they like to be run very rich.
Did you break the Revo in Traxxas method? Live you vids n channel.
Very cool. I don’t have a nitro but I do love the sound!
Love your videos, I have been thinking of getting back into a Nitro ! Looking at one for a good basher and play truck , would you recommend this one ! Had a Nitro Savage SS and a nitro rustler long time ago !
If you put the OS 11K TM carb on it will wake it up and tune better
Best advice:if your glow plug goes bad, buy a lc3 hot plug at your local hobby store.
The traxxas ones are garbage
Botajell has videos on nitro and always willing to give any info on nitro and is definitely the man when it comes to anything gas and nitro engines.. just purchased the TLR Typhon after I decide on a good 6s set up for bashing, I've been thinking about one of the Traxxas nitro!
Traxxas is like a moped. The are fun, but no one takes you serious if you're caught with one.
It takes to a while to break in, at least a gallon
I own one of this and this the most complicated traxxas nitro because of the reversed. I removed the reverse and not runs great.
Can’t get my 3.3 to draw fuel from the tank. All new fuel line, fuel tank lid gasket, plumb fuel properly. Motor has good compression and ran last year. Any ideas?
Could be a blockage? Have you tried blowing through the pipe to the exhaust with throttle open? It should push fuel to the carb. Hope this helps
Make sure fuel lines are connected where they should be, return to factory settings. Remove air filter and drop a little bit of fuel directly in the carb
The bronze sintered filter inside the tank is probably gummed with congealed fuel from your last running season.
Rubbing alcohol or carb cleaner spray doesn the trick. Fill it 1/4 and shake it. Let it soak.
Or grab a new tank
Also, in addition to what others have said, check the carb. Make sure it's not blocked, no cracks/air leaks, and that it is seated properly in the engine. If everything is set up properly, when you plug the exhaust or fully cover the air filter and crank the engine, it should suck fuel right into it.
@@NerfCraft thanks for the help. I have found that when I blow into the tube from the exhaust to the fuel tank cap it is plugged up does not pass any air. Tomorrow I’m going to check the gas tank cap and see where it is blocked.
Yeah, the Revo is the original monster truck. It is what a Truggy is based on.
LMAO, where do you guys get your information? From the Traxxas forums? The Revo is not the original monster truck, that goes to the Original Kyosho USA-1. Truggys are not based off Revos, at all. The original Revo was released in 2004. The GS Racing Storm Unlimited Truck or "UTS" was released in 2002 and is the father of the truggy platform as we know it today. It was so successful that it was banned from running in monster trucks classes during the height of MT racing and lead to the creation of a separate class known as "truggy." Yes, the GS Racing UTS was smoking Tmaxx's, Savage's and Revo's at the track.
@@lipoz-n-nitroz4012 no actually the t Revo when there was a monster truck class was smoking everybody so get your facts straight there lipoz
If you put the OS 11K TM carb on it will wake it up and tune better