I just took 100 pads off of my 95 (previous owner installed). The outer edge doesn't contact the rotor, so as it wears there's this tiny lip that doesn't wear away on the pad. It made it so that it looked like the pads had more life than they really did. That lip makes it look like a lot of pad is left unless you look really close. With the quality of some of the high carbon pads out there, I went with pads sized for the 80. Felt great.
FYI: I did this rebuild recently and reused the old pistons, I was using air to remove them too. To get them out without damaging them i popped out as far all together as i could. Then popped out each one individually, took off the square gasket and clamped the piston back in without the gasket using f-clamps and some wood. Then popped out the next one. Worked suprisingly well, I'm sure some of the air escaped past the other pistons but they had already been freed up and popped the rest out like a charm.
Good vid, informative and easy to follow. You can get the pistons 1/2 out by removing the pads when the caliper is still fitted to the vehicle and gently press on the brake pedal (so long as you're replacing the rotors). Leave the shims in to make sure you don't overdo it.
Thanks champ, I also did the 105 series update on my 93, I also did the lines too and upgrade to braided lines. Night and day difference in feel and stopping . Need to get back in and now do the proportioning valve as that's leaking now... lol
I added braided brake lines to my 95 80 series as well as slotted rotors. It now stops better on 35" tyres than it did on 31s with the standard setup. It's great!
No worries, my son showed me a bit of a trick the other day when we were doing the rears on his mate's 80. Install the dust cover rubber into the caliper without the piston in there. Press the piston up againts the rubber and put a little air pressure into the caliper, this forced the rubber up around the piston, then just push the piston home. Works like a treat! It's doable without air, but much easier with.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Wow, well thank you again! I’ve always been terrified to play with callipers , just figured if I touched them I’d mess something up big time inside, after watching this, I intend to do this upgrade all myself, may even put braided lines on as well! You make a huge difference to us with your videos, and save us so much time and money! Really appreciate all that you do ! 👍
Just one problem, had to grind a bit of the pad away at the top so the new 100 series pads don’t overlap the rotor outside edge. Don’t forget to wear a mask.
Thanks for the video. 👍👏I'm waiting for my upgraded dba cross drilled rotors and Bendix pads for my '96 80 Series Landcruiser (FJZ80) to arrive. These are direct replacement upgraded products (no modifications required), and was going to tackle the work myself. But after seeing what needs to be done from your video, I think it'll be best all round if I just take it to my mechanic. :)
With the cone washers sticking on the studs, If you put a thin blade small screwdriver into the split of the cone and spread them a little they come off easy.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I like to put a thin film of anti-seize on the cone washers when re-installing & I use a short piece of copper pipe to seat them into the hub.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, some of that 13mm copper water pipe works nicely, I also lightly center punch the split in the cone washer to make them release.
do you need to put a different master cylinder on now?, I have rear drums and did the rotor and caliper upgrade on the front but now my pedal goes to the floor and need to double pump it the pedal and it feels great then, but why?
It's when they get hott, I loose pedal completely on the 79, will larger rotors, drilled &slotted, along with reconditioned callipers stop that sinking feeling? I have seen brake booster conversions to a hydraulic booster, how does that work? Maybe a good topic for a vid. Thankyou for the content :-)
If you loose pedal completely, it's called brake fade. This is caused by the brake fluid boiling, it then creates bubbles in the fluid. These bubbles are compressible, so when you put your foot on the brake, you're compressing the gas in the bubbles instead of pushing the brake pads onto the discs. Is the 79 a heavy setup?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing That's good to hear. Did you do any towing of trailers or anything in addition to normal driving? Curious if it made a more noticable difference with towing or more weight?
What company dod you get your rotors from and is this a 105 series front brake upgrade ? Im re building a front axle housing with all new gear and brake upgrade is on the list
Hi great video is the wheel bearing preload 25ftlb or 25nm in another video you say it was 25nm? What is the right tension 25 ftlb or 25nm I am running 33" tyres thanks ?
My apologies, 25nm (18ft lb) is what I usually tighten to. Though I tried previously increasing the torque on the nut up to 40nm with a negligible increase in the drag measured with the spring scale on the wheel stud as the factory service manual specified. The main thing it to make 100% sure the bearing outer races are seated all the way home, otherwise in 4WDing conditions the preload will be lost on the bearing and they'll quickly destroy themselves.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thankyou for replying, Quick question what would you use to deburr a small burr on the axle seal race my seal puller broke and I had to butcher it with a screw driver and left a small burr inside the axle seal race ?
Hey again man... Question for you: I just replaced all of my pads and rotors last weekend but decided I should do the calipers also. I dont need to replace the rotors and pads again do I? They're only a week old. Probably a dumb question but just want to be sure. I'm definitely going to have to bleed the lines also, and since I'm doing all 4 corners, I should get extra brake fluid also right, to top it back up? Or should I just flush the system entirely. Thanks. Edit: I think I'll just reuse the pads and rotors and fully flush the system too.
With only a week of use, no need to change the rotors and pads. When you swap out the calipers, it's a good idea to completely flush the old brake fluid out of the system and replace it with new fluid.
G'day mate, I have a 94 80 series wagon 1fzfe does mine come with the upgraded braking calipers and pads or can I upgrade to this. Is it 105 running gear ?? Cheers for any help.
I usually clean things with kero, but that leaves a film on the parts, so I usually wipe them down with metho on the mating surfaces to make sure the gasket go sticks.
Apparently Toyota recomends you don't split caliper. I read on some forums that it can be difficult to get the caliper reseated correctly to form a proper seal. Anyone have any tips/experience putting this calipers back together? Mine is alread split.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing glad to hear. My calipers are reassembled, but still in the middle of some front end work so i haven't been able to put them on and test them out.
Can I ask what's the backing plate for and what happens if you don't re fit it in the bush where there's sticks, stones and other debris? Also how come you didn't repack the bearings? Just wondering that's all.
The issue with the backing plates is things like small rocks and sticks sometimes get caught between the rotor and the backing plate. I have done the same mod on my personal 80 years ago and haven't had an issue as yet. Didn't we repack the wheel bearings? I must check the video.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing pcd of wheel lugs is the same as hilux. I meant the caliper mount spacing. I thought the very early hilux was 89mm but later versions were wider ~115mm?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yes I have 105 brake pads on my cruiser..which is a 97 model.my sons is a 91 model.I'm thinking of changing the rotor but not if have to buy new calipers.as I've just bought new 91 calipers.an brake pads.
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This video will forever hold 1st place for guys doing their 80s🤙
Thanks mate!
I just took 100 pads off of my 95 (previous owner installed). The outer edge doesn't contact the rotor, so as it wears there's this tiny lip that doesn't wear away on the pad. It made it so that it looked like the pads had more life than they really did. That lip makes it look like a lot of pad is left unless you look really close.
With the quality of some of the high carbon pads out there, I went with pads sized for the 80. Felt great.
Yes mate, I worked out the pistons clamp up then they retract a bit to much, had a brake test yesterday, all good
Glad to hear you got them sorted out!
FYI: I did this rebuild recently and reused the old pistons, I was using air to remove them too. To get them out without damaging them i popped out as far all together as i could. Then popped out each one individually, took off the square gasket and clamped the piston back in without the gasket using f-clamps and some wood. Then popped out the next one. Worked suprisingly well, I'm sure some of the air escaped past the other pistons but they had already been freed up and popped the rest out like a charm.
It's a great way to shift them out and a lot less messy than using grease.
Good vid, informative and easy to follow. You can get the pistons 1/2 out by removing the pads when the caliper is still fitted to the vehicle and gently press on the brake pedal (so long as you're replacing the rotors). Leave the shims in to make sure you don't overdo it.
A great suggestion, thanks.
Great video.
Well this looks longer than i expected, but pretty straight forward.
Thanks champ, I also did the 105 series update on my 93, I also did the lines too and upgrade to braided lines. Night and day difference in feel and stopping . Need to get back in and now do the proportioning valve as that's leaking now... lol
I added braided brake lines to my 95 80 series as well as slotted rotors. It now stops better on 35" tyres than it did on 31s with the standard setup. It's great!
Never realised it was so easy to rebuild calipers .. thank you
No worries, my son showed me a bit of a trick the other day when we were doing the rears on his mate's 80. Install the dust cover rubber into the caliper without the piston in there. Press the piston up againts the rubber and put a little air pressure into the caliper, this forced the rubber up around the piston, then just push the piston home. Works like a treat! It's doable without air, but much easier with.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Wow, well thank you again! I’ve always been terrified to play with callipers , just figured if I touched them I’d mess something up big time inside, after watching this, I intend to do this upgrade all myself, may even put braided lines on as well! You make a huge difference to us with your videos, and save us so much time and money! Really appreciate all that you do ! 👍
Thanks!
Really well presented, easy to understand. Thank you
Glad you liked it, cheers mate!
I have a 97 hzj80 wagon..ive fitted 105 series front brakes in..fits in no worries..no dicking around..popped straight in..
Just the caliper?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing front brake pads..105 series
Just one problem, had to grind a bit of the pad away at the top so the new 100 series pads don’t overlap the rotor outside edge.
Don’t forget to wear a mask.
Thanks for the video. 👍👏I'm waiting for my upgraded dba cross drilled rotors and Bendix pads for my '96 80 Series Landcruiser (FJZ80) to arrive. These are direct replacement upgraded products (no modifications required), and was going to tackle the work myself. But after seeing what needs to be done from your video, I think it'll be best all round if I just take it to my mechanic. :)
Self sufficiency is a great thing. Give it a go, just take your time and take lots of phone photos as part of the dissassembly for reference.
You made in-depth video and i enjoyed watching it. Thank you.
We're glad you enjoyed it!
With the cone washers sticking on the studs, If you put a thin blade small screwdriver into the split of the cone and spread them a little they come off easy.
Thanks, I'll have to try that one next time!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing I like to put a thin film of anti-seize on the cone washers when re-installing & I use a short piece of copper pipe to seat them into the hub.
Over the axle stud?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, some of that 13mm copper water pipe works nicely, I also lightly center punch the split in the cone washer to make them release.
great video, simple to understand how we might upgrade.
Cheers!
Thanks!
Thanks for the video, you didnt show how to get the locks over the dustcaps though
Good video, thanks mate
Cheers!
Good video mate
Cheers!
Good video
Thanks!
Hey our torque wrenches sound the same! Awesome tutorial mate! So you just bought 93 parts and that all worked?
Sure did!
do you need to put a different master cylinder on now?, I have rear drums and did the rotor and caliper upgrade on the front but now my pedal goes to the floor and need to double pump it the pedal and it feels great then, but why?
Is all the air out?
It's when they get hott, I loose pedal completely on the 79, will larger rotors, drilled &slotted, along with reconditioned callipers stop that sinking feeling? I have seen brake booster conversions to a hydraulic booster, how does that work? Maybe a good topic for a vid. Thankyou for the content :-)
If you loose pedal completely, it's called brake fade. This is caused by the brake fluid boiling, it then creates bubbles in the fluid. These bubbles are compressible, so when you put your foot on the brake, you're compressing the gas in the bubbles instead of pushing the brake pads onto the discs.
Is the 79 a heavy setup?
Very good detailed video. Did you noticed much difference in braking performance after the upgrade?
Yes a marked difference, though we were also swapping out rotors and pads at the same time.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing That's good to hear. Did you do any towing of trailers or anything in addition to normal driving? Curious if it made a more noticable difference with towing or more weight?
@@NKPGarage only towing a 1.5T camper, and yes, the owner felt better towing with the extra braking performance.
Is there a link where I can buy the Rotors and caliper? Thank you for the help
They were purchased from Terrain Tamer in Melbourne.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thank you. ill look it up
What company dod you get your rotors from and is this a 105 series front brake upgrade ? Im re building a front axle housing with all new gear and brake upgrade is on the list
The rotors came from Terrain Tamer, the rotors are for a 93+ 80 series LandCruiser.
Just the brake pads are from a 105 series.
Do the alignment pins work from the old (smaller 80 series) callipers work on the new callipers or do I need a new fitting kit for the new callipers?
Where the caliper bolts to the hub?
Hi great video is the wheel bearing preload 25ftlb or 25nm in another video you say it was 25nm? What is the right tension 25 ftlb or 25nm I am running 33" tyres thanks ?
My apologies, 25nm (18ft lb) is what I usually tighten to. Though I tried previously increasing the torque on the nut up to 40nm with a negligible increase in the drag measured with the spring scale on the wheel stud as the factory service manual specified. The main thing it to make 100% sure the bearing outer races are seated all the way home, otherwise in 4WDing conditions the preload will be lost on the bearing and they'll quickly destroy themselves.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thankyou for replying, Quick question what would you use to deburr a small burr on the axle seal race my seal puller broke and I had to butcher it with a screw driver and left a small burr inside the axle seal race ?
@@craig9950 probably a dremel type tool with a small sanding drum would be small enough to get in there and remove the burr.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thankyou so much, No job goes smoothly does it? I just bought a dremel and sanding drum.
Hey again man... Question for you: I just replaced all of my pads and rotors last weekend but decided I should do the calipers also. I dont need to replace the rotors and pads again do I? They're only a week old. Probably a dumb question but just want to be sure.
I'm definitely going to have to bleed the lines also, and since I'm doing all 4 corners, I should get extra brake fluid also right, to top it back up? Or should I just flush the system entirely.
Thanks.
Edit: I think I'll just reuse the pads and rotors and fully flush the system too.
With only a week of use, no need to change the rotors and pads.
When you swap out the calipers, it's a good idea to completely flush the old brake fluid out of the system and replace it with new fluid.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Thank you, I just needed an expert to confirm ;D
Where did you get your rotors from?
They're Terrain Tamer.
G'day mate, I have a 94 80 series wagon 1fzfe does mine come with the upgraded braking calipers and pads or can I upgrade to this. Is it 105 running gear ?? Cheers for any help.
Being post 93, yours already has the larger front brakes. Though the 105 series pads slip right into the 80 series calipers.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing excellent bud, thanks heaps. Good vid too !!
If I have a 1990 do I need 94+ calipers, discs and hubs or just discs?
Just disks and calipers/pads.
Would you recommend this upgrade for a 1988 HJ61? I'm thinking about upgrading for better brake performance.
Great video by the way!
I'm not sure if the parts will fit the HJ61, but if they do, I would 100%.
Hi mate I am wondering are the diameter of the new rotors 322mm or 338mm
You really need a speed bleeder, makes it easy to do it on your own, mess free and wastes no fluid.
I probably should pick one up!
Hey Mate, At 28 Minutes into the video, what is the Orange colour paste called? Is it like a gasket? I cant seem to find a gasket for this
Permatex form a gasket. The main thing is both surfaces are clean and free from grease/oil etc.
Awesome! Picked it up from Superxheap today. Thanks for the help
I usually clean things with kero, but that leaves a film on the parts, so I usually wipe them down with metho on the mating surfaces to make sure the gasket go sticks.
Didn't need to change the master cylinder then? Will they fit under 15 inch rims?
Same master cylinder, though you'll need 16" rims to clear the front calipers.
it all depends on the offset, -22 15"s will fit on the front of my 94 but not on the rear.
0 offset wont fit either end
Bit of gentle 40 grit flap wheel applied to the rear calipers will have the 15s on there.... dont ask me how I know...
Anyone know the torque spec for the 4 bolts that hold the caliper together?
Apparently Toyota recomends you don't split caliper. I read on some forums that it can be difficult to get the caliper reseated correctly to form a proper seal. Anyone have any tips/experience putting this calipers back together? Mine is alread split.
We haven't had an issue with the ones in the video, they're still going strong.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing glad to hear. My calipers are reassembled, but still in the middle of some front end work so i haven't been able to put them on and test them out.
Will this upgrade fit on a 1999 Hzj79?
Unfortunately not, the 79 is a 5 wheel stud setup not 6.
Can I ask what's the backing plate for and what happens if you don't re fit it in the bush where there's sticks, stones and other debris? Also how come you didn't repack the bearings? Just wondering that's all.
The issue with the backing plates is things like small rocks and sticks sometimes get caught between the rotor and the backing plate. I have done the same mod on my personal 80 years ago and haven't had an issue as yet.
Didn't we repack the wheel bearings? I must check the video.
hi, good vid. what is the lug spacing on these calipers? i thought early 80 series were 89mm same as early hilux?
The 80 series is 6/139.7 from memory, not sure about the hilux.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing pcd of wheel lugs is the same as hilux. I meant the caliper mount spacing. I thought the very early hilux was 89mm but later versions were wider ~115mm?
What yr cruiser is this..can this be done to a 10/ 91 model.
This is a 90 model VX 'Cruiser. And yours will have the small brakes as well. The braking difference is nothing short of amazing after the upgrade.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing can I use the same brake calipers..
Are the new brake rotors 95 upwards 97
The rotors and calipers are both 94+. 105 brake pads are much thicker and slip right into the 94+ calipers.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing yes I have 105 brake pads on my cruiser..which is a 97 model.my sons is a 91 model.I'm thinking of changing the rotor but not if have to buy new calipers.as I've just bought new 91 calipers.an brake pads.
Is that compatible to 1HD-T ?
The early ones, yes.
Could have just spit the caliper and pull out the pistons without needing to push out the pistons with air
You probably wouldn't be able to pull them out with your fingers, and you want to avoid using tools that might scratch up the sealing surface.
Pump it up again please
Haha!
All jokes aside, very helpful. 👍
Cheers!
One Ugga Dugga... or two? LMAO.
Usually, ugga dugga rightly tighty and try to stop before it becomes righty loosey!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing
😂
😂😂😂
Do the 1997 models have the bigger disc ?
The bigger disks started around 1994
Этому умнику ни за что бы свою машину не доверил.
Тормоза по-прежнему работают нормально, стоит начинать доверять умным ребятам!
👍👍👍👍👍👏👏👏
Cheers!
"click" hahaha
Gotta get the torque setting right!
Butcher
Probably, but why in this instance?
I heard sarcasm in that call
Whacking the piston not good for bores, big g clamp with a socket in cup and for gods sake, use a face shield , dude
I like living life a little dangerously! :)