I had to grid one of my pullers to fit the steering wheel to take off, It wouldn't budge. Finally "popped" when I used an air wrench to turn the puller. It was the hardest part of the job. I raised the bus as high as safely possible, pulled all the cotter pins, then removed all the nuts, then used a hammer to hit the side of the different component to pop the tie rod and drag link out. I didn't need a pickle fork. I double checked all nuts to be sure they were installed and tight. New parts came with self locking nuts, I didn't have to bother with cotter pins on reassembly. It took about 3-4 hours for entire job including clean up. I can't believe I lived with sloppy steering for so many years! Cost was less than $200.00 US, parts bought on-line. Thanks for the video.
Simply outstanding....both in content and filming. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!!! at almost 50 years old I'm planning on doing these same things to my Bay. Thanks again, buddy!
Your tutorials are GREAT! You explain procedures very methodically and clearly. I am in the midst of doing this type of r/r but will probably take it to the Old Volks Home in Soquel, Ca. to do the actual work. My thought is to r/r the same parts you showed as well as r/r my TRW box with a original remand box. Right now, my bus steers like a truck without power steering. I 'trusted' a repair shop in Daly City to get me the correct box and now, I have been told it may be the wrong box as the Pitman arm does not fit flush to the housing of the box AND has no cotter key....which I thought was a bit dangerous. Thank you.
Great video! Just a quick tip for getting those outer tie rods separated, if you need to remove them without destroying the boot. Loosen the castle nut, then put your jack under it with some pressure. Then take your hammer and hit the outer part of the control arm right where its seated. Pops 'em out every time, with no thread or boot damage.
I used this video to replace the drag link, tie rods, and steering damper on my 78 Westy and now she drives perfectly straight. Really struggled getting the drag link and one of the tie rods to pop off and had to use a pickle fork with a breaker bar to get them off. Thanks for the help!
To work on these old vws you need the pitman arm puller for 'compact' cars. It is small enough to fit over SOME of the tie rod ends/steering knuckles. A good torch, air hammer and a pickle fork were required to bust the rust on my project.
While I have noted the date on this video, I decided to leave a thanks anyway, as I am about to replace these (and other) exact parts! Thanks also for noting the mark on the steering box, I have not seen this in any of the other video's I've watched. On the adjustable tie rods, mine similarly has one adjustable/one fixed, which I will be replacing with two adjustable. I like the ability to service all of the ends of the rods and I should also note that if something goes wrong with any of the tie rod ends, each end can be bought and replaced by itself, as long as the rod itself isn't damaged. Some savings there as well. Got to go get this stuff installed before it snows, thanks again for your attention to detail!
The old tie rods aren't bent. VW actually used angled tie rods in certain years of Bugs, too. I replaced my front beam in my Bug recently and the beam came with an angled tie rod on the driver's side with a similar bend to yours. They do bend with front end trauma but it's usually a bowing rather than a clear angle like yours show.
+Scott Williams Thanks Scott, that's good to know. At the time I did this I was researching it pretty heavily and determined that these weren't truly the bent version but had suffered from a jack or rock incident (at least that's what I remember deciding). In any case - I'm glad I replaced them - drove super solid after that. Cheers for sharing knowledge!
Man, I really appreciate your videos! I bought my bus about 3 years ago and still a newbie when it comes to this stuff. Our bus finally got on the road last Fall and now starting to take care of little things like drag link, etc. I have a little play in the steering and it definitely makes some noises every time I turn, so hopefully, it's either the damper or drag link - any suggestions as to who carries the best parts for these parts? Also since I'm going to replace the drag link, is it a good idea to just replace the damper at the same time? Signs of a bad damper on the bus?
Great video, I have a question, how did you remove your steering wheel. I have a 71 bus that can't use a steering wheel puller , it just basically has the center bolt and that's it, any ideas would be greatly appreciated
I'm thinking about doing the same work. One question: I have play in the actual steering column. Looks like a part might be missing between the column and the floor. Is there a part that stabilizes the actual steering column?
Hi, my vw bus came without the steering damper, I have bought one, but no sure about what bolts and nuts needed to fix it. Do you know where I can get some info about it? thanks!
I had to grid one of my pullers to fit the steering wheel to take off, It wouldn't budge. Finally "popped" when I used an air wrench to turn the puller. It was the hardest part of the job. I raised the bus as high as safely possible, pulled all the cotter pins, then removed all the nuts, then used a hammer to hit the side of the different component to pop the tie rod and drag link out. I didn't need a pickle fork. I double checked all nuts to be sure they were installed and tight. New parts came with self locking nuts, I didn't have to bother with cotter pins on reassembly. It took about 3-4 hours for entire job including clean up. I can't believe I lived with sloppy steering for so many years! Cost was less than $200.00 US, parts bought on-line. Thanks for the video.
Simply outstanding....both in content and filming. Thank you so much for taking the time to do this!!! at almost 50 years old I'm planning on doing these same things to my Bay. Thanks again, buddy!
Your tutorials are GREAT! You explain procedures very methodically and clearly. I am in the midst of doing this type of r/r but will probably take it to the Old Volks Home in Soquel, Ca. to do the actual work. My thought is to r/r the same parts you showed as well as r/r my TRW box with a original remand box. Right now, my bus steers like a truck without power steering. I 'trusted' a repair shop in Daly City to get me the correct box and now, I have been told it may be the wrong box as the Pitman arm does not fit flush to the housing of the box AND has no cotter key....which I thought was a bit dangerous. Thank you.
Great video! Just a quick tip for getting those outer tie rods separated, if you need to remove them without destroying the boot. Loosen the castle nut, then put your jack under it with some pressure. Then take your hammer and hit the outer part of the control arm right where its seated. Pops 'em out every time, with no thread or boot damage.
Woohoo! That is a fantastic tip! Next time I have to remove them without damage, I'll be doing that.
Potentially stupid question, but is the control arm the part near the tire where the tie rod is attached?
I used this video to replace the drag link, tie rods, and steering damper on my 78 Westy and now she drives perfectly straight. Really struggled getting the drag link and one of the tie rods to pop off and had to use a pickle fork with a breaker bar to get them off. Thanks for the help!
These videos explain in great depth the details I need!
- 72 Westfalia
Great Video - Thank you. That will help my a lot at my current T2 Bulli project. Best regards from Germany Ralph
Funny - we have almost the same profile picture, bus and color of bus. Actually thought I was looking at my own comment for a second. haha
Another fantastic video. Thank you!
To work on these old vws you need the pitman arm puller for 'compact' cars. It is small enough to fit over SOME of the tie rod ends/steering knuckles. A good torch, air hammer and a pickle fork were required to bust the rust on my project.
While I have noted the date on this video, I decided to leave a thanks anyway, as I am about to replace these (and other) exact parts! Thanks also for noting the mark on the steering box, I have not seen this in any of the other video's I've watched. On the adjustable tie rods, mine similarly has one adjustable/one fixed, which I will be replacing with two adjustable. I like the ability to service all of the ends of the rods and I should also note that if something goes wrong with any of the tie rod ends, each end can be bought and replaced by itself, as long as the rod itself isn't damaged. Some savings there as well. Got to go get this stuff installed before it snows, thanks again for your attention to detail!
Thank you once again, these are so helpful!
Thanks for this, looking at doing my drag link in the next couple weeks.
Absolutely! Good luck with the drag link.
Busaru Wow, much easier than I expected, changed that and the dampener. Steers like a dream now.
Jason Cardenas Yeah, it's amazing how tight everything feels with new gear!
The old tie rods aren't bent. VW actually used angled tie rods in certain years of Bugs, too. I replaced my front beam in my Bug recently and the beam came with an angled tie rod on the driver's side with a similar bend to yours. They do bend with front end trauma but it's usually a bowing rather than a clear angle like yours show.
+Scott Williams Thanks Scott, that's good to know. At the time I did this I was researching it pretty heavily and determined that these weren't truly the bent version but had suffered from a jack or rock incident (at least that's what I remember deciding). In any case - I'm glad I replaced them - drove super solid after that. Cheers for sharing knowledge!
Great video man. Thank you.
+DoubleODude I'm glad it helped.
Man, I really appreciate your videos! I bought my bus about 3 years ago and still a newbie when it comes to this stuff. Our bus finally got on the road last Fall and now starting to take care of little things like drag link, etc. I have a little play in the steering and it definitely makes some noises every time I turn, so hopefully, it's either the damper or drag link - any suggestions as to who carries the best parts for these parts? Also since I'm going to replace the drag link, is it a good idea to just replace the damper at the same time? Signs of a bad damper on the bus?
Great video, I have a question, how did you remove your steering wheel. I have a 71 bus that can't use a steering wheel puller , it just basically has the center bolt and that's it, any ideas would be greatly appreciated
A 71 should just pull out after you've removed the big nut under the horn cap. Maybe some penetrating oil?
Thank You once again. Keep it up.
What's next on the list?
Thanks Siphiwo, next up is a long drive, so a lot of fast motion driving haha!
hi dude were did you get all the parts to do this job please thanks and another spot on video
RockAuto is a great source.
I'm thinking about doing the same work. One question: I have play in the actual steering column. Looks like a part might be missing between the column and the floor. Is there a part that stabilizes the actual steering column?
Have you or would you do a video of this procedure for the Vanagon (2WD)?
+Man Living Naturally I haven't done a video for the Vanagons but next time I have to do steering on a Van I'll make one.
Hi, my vw bus came without the steering damper, I have bought one, but no sure about what bolts and nuts needed to fix it. Do you know where I can get some info about it? thanks!
+Panchi Gómez You're best bet is The Samba for info like that.
What about putting the power steering from the Donner car on the Bus?
+rbrtplly That would be incredible - I'd love to see it.
Can anybody let me know if this will be a similar fix on my '65 split bus? My tie rods,etc are 50 years old and shot.
Hey Cole, I bet it is very similar. I would invest in a Bentley manual so that you have the exact procedure in front of you while working.
Thanks man, much appreciated, love your Busaru videos, informative and fun. Peace.