Perfect instructions. No water was coming out of the faucet. Upon disassembly, I found that hard water deposits had completely clogged it up after 27 years. What's best is no parts were required. Cleaning out the pipe was enough to fix it. Thanks very much. I couldn't have done it without your help!
Thanks so much for this video! Youre the only one out of the vids ive seen so far that says what part number the handle is and that it fits all of them! Thank-you!
Packing washers. The new stem comes with two packing washers. The shallow flatter one is for left handed threads and used with the tan nut. The thicker deeper one is for the right handed threads and used with the white nut. One packing washer might already be on the stem and the other one is loose in the bag. Use only one packing washer.
Good videos, very helpful. I'd just like to say thank you for answering my questions I had about my Mansfield spigot leaking issue I have. By grinding down the seat in the back of my spigot I may be able to fix the problem and will bring this up with my plumber. Thanks Again!
Just bought a home that has two of these, both leaking. Thanks that you take the time to put these videos on the net. It saves me a lot of money. Yeah! And, where's your tip bucket????
Excellent video. Content was spot on and even included what I was really looking for, the particular parts kits needed to rebuild these faucets. Also, in watching TH-cam videos, it is amazing how paying attention to decent lighting (not great, but good enough) and decent sound really push some informational videos over the top. Well done.
Wonderful video, thank you for saving me a lot of money calling a plumber. I could not believe I found the rebuild kit with your provided number right at my local hardware store. Many many thanks!!!
Thank you! Don't forget loads of thread seal tape around the packing nut! Home Depot did not sell just the stem; I had to go to a local plumbing supply store where they got me the stem.
Learned more by watching this than trying to fix it for awhile. You broke it down in a very easy to understand method. Just ordered repair kit. Feel good about fixing it. The web is full of people compalining about this Mansfield frost-free faucet.....are they known for leaking and needing attention?
Now wait a minute. Mine does have the vacuum break with metal cap and it does have the 180 turn but it does not have the spring loaded stem. Just a single washer that I have replaced numerous times and it still leaks. Maybe it was built on a Friday with misc parts. It was installed around two years ago and have been fighting with it off and on ever since. Sometimes if you crank down on the handle pretty hard it will stop leaking but if you turn it the least bit it will start leaking again. Not just a drip but a small stream.
Does the white packing nut use the same packing as the tan one or do you use the more slender packing that came with the rebuild kit if you have the white packing nut? The packing that comes with the new stem doesn't seem to allow the white packing nut to tighten up as it was when I removed it.
I’ve fixed the leak after rebuilding, but it still squeals/squeaks when I turn the handle. How do I fix the squeak? Plumber’s grease? I don’t think it is advised nor will it work.
Thabks for the video. I have a question here. When i pulled my stem out of faucet. There was a spring at the end. It seems rubber seal stuck inside the faucet. How to fix it? How remove the end of the rubber seal possibly inside the stem? Please advise.
My new M-400 was working great, but after 2 months the water pressure decreases as I open the water all the way. I have to turn it very slightly to get okay pressure but not like the pressure of when it was installed 3 months ago. Do you think the stem is bad?
I had a plumber replace parts, but not the stem. Now I do not have the full water pressure we had before. Is there a way to make an adjustment for more water pressure?
What if you cannot get the rod out? I tried turning and the handle busted...tried a little pressure with a wrench and it won't back out....water is stuck on
I bought new stem and handle. When I screw the handle back it, I can turn to shut it off tight, but it always keeps turning on (to left) without hitting a point of stopping?
I followed your instructions no leaks....but. when I turn the handle I can just pull it out and water comes out the nosell. I put it back in and turn the handle. Doesnt seem to have a start and stop point when I turn the handle. Is that a sign the threading in the pipe is stripped. When I put the stem in and turned close wise it snugged up and would turn any more. But when reassembled I just pull the handle and water comes out. Any suggestions
Thanks for this info. I have a question because I was not able to remove my handle. So am I able to just add another stem and use the parts from a rebuild kit to put is all back together. My mansfield is the older style needing stem M-123-0095
This is great! I don't think my faucet was ever correctly put together or it fell apart right away; the sub assembly had come off of the stem. I saw part of the spring inside the stem and as soon as you pulled out the stem, I knew mine was apart since nothing was on the end of the stem. Thank you so much for this video! Now I'm off to the store to see if I can fix the sub assembly. I am wondering it should be soldered or 'glued' to the end of the stem because it pops right off. ??
wxmyjnsn I did end up gluing the end but it still did not work so my hubby went out and bought a whole different faucet. Now that we put it in I've come to the conclusion that the first one never did work right. Ugh! The price we pay for learning! I do believe the end pieces are not suppose to come off. You have to order a new stem or do what we did, complete new faucet.
Add 4" to the stem length for the nominal wall thickness. So a 10" nominal size hydrant will have a 14" stem. Note that a hydrant may actually be longer than the nominal wall thickness as sometimes the valve seat is suspended offset in a crawl space or cabinet where it will be a warmer temperature to prevent freezing. In such a case the hydrant valve stem will be [wall thickness] + [interior offset] + [4" in valve seat & exterior handle offsets]
Great video. I managed to get the screw and beveled gasket stuck in the pipe when I was removing the stem with the leaking bell basket. The screw is turned such a way that it is difficult to remove. Any suggestions for getting the screw and gasket out?
You could try using a coat hanger or a thin wire to shove into the faucet to hopefully free up whatever is stuck. Once the stem is removed you can turn the water on for a second also and the water should blow everything out of the faucet.
Thanks! been trying similar approaches. I will let you know if/when I get it out. Hoping to get it unstuck because the faucet is installed in a really awkward spot for accessing the other side of the pipe a replacement is needed.@@fcplumbing
What possible reason to make the pacing nut plastic, and a nut with a left hand thread. I have a faucet in my bathroom that is over twenty five years old and it uses right hand threads. The Faucet is American Standard.
The packing crew should move independently of the handle/stem. I used plumbers silicone grease, which makes everything glide smoothly, except my faucet still squeaks.
That is the packing nut, and you should be able to unthread it in of it broke multiple ways you can probably just use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the pieces out.
Before finishing the basement in our 60s house, I had a plumber replace the old-fashioned faucets and put in these "modern frost-free" ones. The old ones had survived almost 50 MN winters--but I was trying to do it right. What a dumb mistake. These have to be rebuilt every year and still leak. Cheaper to rebuild crummy faucets than tear into plaster, I guess. Surprised someone hasn't filed a class action lawsuit.
Glad I'm not the only one that thinks these things are garbage!! Plastic parts...disgusting. I find myself rebuilding these stupid things just about every spring!
Behind the handle there is a packing nut. sometimes just tightening it a little will stop the leak. If it is coming through the metal stem you would need to rebuild or replace the stem.
You left out an important component for the stem! If you decide to rebuild a 500 there is a spring housed at the back of the step that pushes the rubber washer tightly against the back of the bib that ensures a 100% water shut-off without over tightening the handle. After X years that springs becomes worn. WHERE CAN YOU GET A NEW SPRING ?? THX
The spring actually prevents backflow when the faucet is on. It is fully compressed when the water is turned off. The spring is not offered separate. You would have to replace the stem.
Mine is leaking from around the packing area. Cannot see it, because I cannot get the screw off the handle. It's a 3/8 hex screw and it's frozen on. I have sprayed on a penetration oil, inside and outside the center screw area for 4 months now. Or do I have to cut off the plastic handle to get the packing area and get a to rebuilt kit and handle?
The screw is part of the handle kit. If it didn’t come with yours, you got screwed, sorry, pun intended. I just ordered one off Amazon, same part number as the one in the video, the package says 1 handle, 1 screw. Got both of them. If yours didn’t come with one, sent it back and ask for a new one that is complete package. Hope this helps.
I agree, these faucets are garbage!! I drain mine out and cover it with styrofoam cover every winter and every spring the damn thing leaks and needs new parts. These are junk!!
These mansfield spigots are overly complicated crap designed to require constant maintenance parts to rob you. Conventional hose bibs work just fine for decades if you purge them each winter. My mansfield is in a garage which does not get cold enough to freeze. It lasted 5 years. Garbage!
The 400 series no longer has this type of stem. Don't waste your money replacing the stem - it is DEFECTIVE by design. Replace the entire hydrant or you will just be throwing money on parts that don't fix the leaking handle.
Worked for ours. We had a crack on the inside of the handle (gray plastic 400 series), that lead to finding how depleted all the seals were due to a 3 year constant flow of water, a lot, nobody shut it off from inside which caused a Crack in the foundation 🙃 replaced all the dodads on the stem as well as the handle, worked like a charm. BUT, very quickly the seals broke down. Repairs done end of August 2023. Rarely utilized before winter. Shut water off from inside, emptied spout after, insulated it from October-first week of April (in Maine). Got the hose out of storage, hooked it all up, to my suprise it wouldnt shut off completely, AGAIN. Drip, drip, drip. Better than before but what the heck!. Took the stem out, the graphite seal (which breaks down rapidly for obvious reasons) had become useless. I replaced it with something else instead.
@@chasesibley3331 You say 'Worked for ours,' but then detail that your 'fix' barely lasted a year and that you have now replaced 'it with something else instead.' You seem to confirm what I wrote in my post.
Perfect instructions. No water was coming out of the faucet. Upon disassembly, I found that hard water deposits had completely clogged it up after 27 years. What's best is no parts were required. Cleaning out the pipe was enough to fix it. Thanks very much. I couldn't have done it without your help!
Thanks so much for this video! Youre the only one out of the vids ive seen so far that says what part number the handle is and that it fits all of them! Thank-you!
Thanks for sharing this video - it's exactly what I needed for my hydrant that had no water coming out at all, all fixed now.
Packing washers.
The new stem comes with two packing washers.
The shallow flatter one is for left handed threads and used with the tan nut.
The thicker deeper one is for the right handed threads and used with the white nut.
One packing washer might already be on the stem and the other one is loose in the bag.
Use only one packing washer.
Love it! Great explanation. Rebuilding the stem was easy enough and stopped the leaks. I was able to put washers from 500 valve stem on 400.
Fixed my old Mansfield 400 in 10 minutes, thanks for a GREAT video!
Good videos, very helpful. I'd just like to say thank you for answering my questions I had about my Mansfield spigot leaking issue I have. By grinding down the seat in the back of my spigot I may be able to fix the problem and will bring this up with my plumber. Thanks Again!
Just bought a home that has two of these, both leaking. Thanks that you take the time to put these videos on the net. It saves me a lot of money. Yeah! And, where's your tip bucket????
Excellent video. Content was spot on and even included what I was really looking for, the particular parts kits needed to rebuild these faucets. Also, in watching TH-cam videos, it is amazing how paying attention to decent lighting (not great, but good enough) and decent sound really push some informational videos over the top. Well done.
Wonderful video, thank you for saving me a lot of money calling a plumber. I could not believe I found the rebuild kit with your provided number right at my local hardware store. Many many thanks!!!
Thank you, helped me understand/fix my outdoor faucet just now
Awesome video. Great help for a DIY guy like myself!
Thank you so much for this great and very clear video. It’s exactly what I needed!
This 2020 and your video is awesome it helps me out. Thank you so much and I LOVE TH-cam.
Thank you! Don't forget loads of thread seal tape around the packing nut!
Home Depot did not sell just the stem; I had to go to a local plumbing supply store where they got me the stem.
Nice job, thanks for demonstrating this repair. God bless.
you sir are a life saver, thank you or this video you are going to save me a lot of money from having the plumber doing this.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge. Exactly what I was looking for.
Exactly what I needed to see! Thank you!
Thank you, rebuilt mine with your help.
Great video and very well explained. Thank you
Thanks for the tips, very helpful!
Learned more by watching this than trying to fix it for awhile. You broke it down in a very easy to understand method. Just ordered repair kit. Feel good about fixing it. The web is full of people compalining about this Mansfield frost-free faucet.....are they known for leaking and needing attention?
thanks for this thorough informative video
Excellent video; thanks so much.
Thank you! Extremely helpful!
great video! it was exactly what i needed.
Excellent! To the point, beautiful!
never thought of looking INSIDE the handle!! fascinating. Pretty sure we have a 500 series. thanks
The Mansfield 400 series Faucet Stem is a 123-40XX series stem and the Mansfield 500 series Faucet Stem 500 is a 123-00XX series stem.
This doesn't really show how to rebuild with the seals repair kit. do you have a video for that? id rather not replace the whole stem
Thanks for the info! This was most helpful.
Now wait a minute. Mine does have the vacuum break with metal cap and it does have the 180 turn but it does not have the spring loaded stem. Just a single washer that I have replaced numerous times and it still leaks. Maybe it was built on a Friday with misc parts. It was installed around two years ago and have been fighting with it off and on ever since. Sometimes if you crank down on the handle pretty hard it will stop leaking but if you turn it the least bit it will start leaking again. Not just a drip but a small stream.
Very helpful. Kits ordered.
Well explained!!
Thanks for the info!
Does the white packing nut use the same packing as the tan one or do you use the more slender packing that came with the rebuild kit if you have the white packing nut? The packing that comes with the new stem doesn't seem to allow the white packing nut to tighten up as it was when I removed it.
Thank you sir!
What would cause low flow in one of these faucets?
I’ve fixed the leak after rebuilding, but it still squeals/squeaks when I turn the handle. How do I fix the squeak? Plumber’s grease? I don’t think it is advised nor will it work.
Thabks for the video. I have a question here. When i pulled my stem out of faucet. There was a spring at the end. It seems rubber seal stuck inside the faucet. How to fix it? How remove the end of the rubber seal possibly inside the stem? Please advise.
My new M-400 was working great, but after 2 months the water pressure decreases as I open the water all the way. I have to turn it very slightly to get okay pressure but not like the pressure of when it was installed 3 months ago.
Do you think the stem is bad?
I had a plumber replace parts, but not the stem. Now I do not have the full water pressure we had before. Is there a way to make an adjustment for more water pressure?
What if you cannot get the rod out? I tried turning and the handle busted...tried a little pressure with a wrench and it won't back out....water is stuck on
I bought new stem and handle. When I screw the handle back it, I can turn to shut it off tight, but it always keeps turning on (to left) without hitting a point of stopping?
I have rebuilt the whole hydrant but I still have a drip, drip. What should I be looking for?
If you can’t get to the other end of the stem is there any way to replace it?
I followed your instructions no leaks....but. when I turn the handle I can just pull it out and water comes out the nosell. I put it back in and turn the handle. Doesnt seem to have a start and stop point when I turn the handle. Is that a sign the threading in the pipe is stripped. When I put the stem in and turned close wise it snugged up and would turn any more. But when reassembled I just pull the handle and water comes out. Any suggestions
This was very informative. Do they sell the components for the faucet at Lowes?
What store that carry all the faucet kits replacement?
Can i replace the spacer that fits against the wall siding? I had water leaking inside the house
Video was awesome. Exactly what I needed. Stop your whining people...
Thanks for this info. I have a question because I was not able to remove my handle. So am I able to just add another stem and use the parts from a rebuild kit to put is all back together. My mansfield is the older style needing stem M-123-0095
You have the same Model I have. I would have gotten the wrong size had I not read your comment. Did the stem work and stop the leak?
This is great! I don't think my faucet was ever correctly put together or it fell apart right away; the sub assembly had come off of the stem. I saw part of the spring inside the stem and as soon as you pulled out the stem, I knew mine was apart since nothing was on the end of the stem. Thank you so much for this video! Now I'm off to the store to see if I can fix the sub assembly. I am wondering it should be soldered or 'glued' to the end of the stem because it pops right off. ??
same for me. I cant figure out how to get the end pieces out
wxmyjnsn I did end up gluing the end but it still did not work so my hubby went out and bought a whole different faucet. Now that we put it in I've come to the conclusion that the first one never did work right. Ugh! The price we pay for learning! I do believe the end pieces are not suppose to come off. You have to order a new stem or do what we did, complete new faucet.
I tied fidshing line on it and ran it thorugh the shaft and and held it tight then inserted it back in the faccet. Works fine now.
So if the tube measures at 12" do I need to order a 10"?
Add 4" to the stem length for the nominal wall thickness. So a 10" nominal size hydrant will have a 14" stem. Note that a hydrant may actually be longer than the nominal wall thickness as sometimes the valve seat is suspended offset in a crawl space or cabinet where it will be a warmer temperature to prevent freezing. In such a case the hydrant valve stem will be [wall thickness] + [interior offset] + [4" in valve seat & exterior handle offsets]
Great video. I managed to get the screw and beveled gasket stuck in the pipe when I was removing the stem with the leaking bell basket. The screw is turned such a way that it is difficult to remove. Any suggestions for getting the screw and gasket out?
You could try using a coat hanger or a thin wire to shove into the faucet to hopefully free up whatever is stuck. Once the stem is removed you can turn the water on for a second also and the water should blow everything out of the faucet.
Thanks! been trying similar approaches. I will let you know if/when I get it out. Hoping to get it unstuck because the faucet is installed in a really awkward spot for accessing the other side of the pipe a replacement is needed.@@fcplumbing
@fcplumbing
I got the screw out but not sure if the gasket has made its way out yet.
I can't get the stem to unscrew, any advice?
Brute force.
Kroil
What possible reason to make the pacing nut plastic, and a nut with a left hand thread. I have a faucet in my bathroom that is over twenty five years old and it uses right hand threads. The Faucet is American Standard.
Does anyone know if I turn off the water to the house, or just the pipe connected to the facet?
Either one as long as it turns the water off to the faucet
When reinstalling the handle, after tightening the packing screen as far as i can, the packing screw turns with the handle. Any tips? Thanks.
Randy, does your squeak when turning the handle? Mines is driving me nuts!
The packing crew should move independently of the handle/stem. I used plumbers silicone grease, which makes everything glide smoothly, except my faucet still squeaks.
Isn’t there supposed to be a washer that goes before the tan packing nut?
Before the packing nut goes on, the packing would go in. Then the packing nut is tightened over it to create a seal.
my faucet continues to leak slightly after rebuilding.
My white piece split when I was trying to remove. How do I get out
That is the packing nut, and you should be able to unthread it in of it broke multiple ways you can probably just use a pair of needle nose pliers and pull the pieces out.
Before finishing the basement in our 60s house, I had a plumber replace the old-fashioned faucets and put in these "modern frost-free" ones. The old ones had survived almost 50 MN winters--but I was trying to do it right. What a dumb mistake. These have to be rebuilt every year and still leak. Cheaper to rebuild crummy faucets than tear into plaster, I guess. Surprised someone hasn't filed a class action lawsuit.
Glad I'm not the only one that thinks these things are garbage!! Plastic parts...disgusting. I find myself rebuilding these stupid things just about every spring!
replacing all stem parts with the 7755 kit would have been helpful.
What do you do if it leaks from the handle?
Behind the handle there is a packing nut. sometimes just tightening it a little will stop the leak. If it is coming through the metal stem you would need to rebuild or replace the stem.
a stem and a 630-7755 and a 630-7965 will do it also a stem and a 630-8500 will do it
I like the idea off frost free. I hate the idea of the water restriction caused by the design.
You left out an important component for the stem! If you decide to rebuild a 500 there is a spring housed at the back of the step that pushes the rubber washer tightly against the back of the bib that ensures a 100% water shut-off without over tightening the handle.
After X years that springs becomes worn. WHERE CAN YOU GET A NEW SPRING ??
THX
The spring actually prevents backflow when the faucet is on. It is fully compressed when the water is turned off. The spring is not offered separate. You would have to replace the stem.
Mine is leaking from around the packing area. Cannot see it, because I cannot get the screw off the handle. It's a 3/8 hex screw and it's frozen on. I have sprayed on a penetration oil, inside and outside the center screw area for 4 months now. Or do I have to cut off the plastic handle to get the packing area and get a to rebuilt kit and handle?
Jay, did you ever get the screw off? I am having the same problem right now! How did you solve the problem!??
Try PB Blaster
Impact driver removed in seconds without need for any loosening sprays when using an adapter and the appropriate socket.
I think mine is only 10 -12 months old and it's leaking out the front (handle) already! 🙁
forgot...thanks for the video!
screw holding the handle completely corroded, not included in the kit
The screw is part of the handle kit. If it didn’t come with yours, you got screwed, sorry, pun intended. I just ordered one off Amazon, same part number as the one in the video, the package says 1 handle, 1 screw. Got both of them. If yours didn’t come with one, sent it back and ask for a new one that is complete package. Hope this helps.
OMG,,,show the parts in the view
I agree, these faucets are garbage!! I drain mine out and cover it with styrofoam cover every winter and every spring the damn thing leaks and needs new parts. These are junk!!
My packing nut is white but is a left hand thread, loosens to the right. These faucets are everpriced junk.
I agree...total garbage! They dont freeze up but your'e still constantly replacing parts!!
Doesn't show how to REBUILD the 400 OR 500 SERIES mansfield faucet. Only show how to remove & install vacuum breaker.
These mansfield spigots are overly complicated crap designed to require constant maintenance parts to rob you. Conventional hose bibs work just fine for decades if you purge them each winter. My mansfield is in a garage which does not get cold enough to freeze. It lasted 5 years. Garbage!
The 400 series no longer has this type of stem. Don't waste your money replacing the stem - it is DEFECTIVE by design. Replace the entire hydrant or you will just be throwing money on parts that don't fix the leaking handle.
Worked for ours. We had a crack on the inside of the handle (gray plastic 400 series), that lead to finding how depleted all the seals were due to a 3 year constant flow of water, a lot, nobody shut it off from inside which caused a Crack in the foundation 🙃 replaced all the dodads on the stem as well as the handle, worked like a charm. BUT, very quickly the seals broke down. Repairs done end of August 2023. Rarely utilized before winter. Shut water off from inside, emptied spout after, insulated it from October-first week of April (in Maine). Got the hose out of storage, hooked it all up, to my suprise it wouldnt shut off completely, AGAIN. Drip, drip, drip. Better than before but what the heck!. Took the stem out, the graphite seal (which breaks down rapidly for obvious reasons) had become useless. I replaced it with something else instead.
@@chasesibley3331 You say 'Worked for ours,' but then detail that your 'fix' barely lasted a year and that you have now replaced 'it with something else instead.' You seem to confirm what I wrote in my post.