Tempting me to dig though my scavenge bag. Got a couple of DOA ESP32 boards. Never imagined it might be something as simple as the regulator, figured I'd have to replace the modules.
If someone tries to run em at 5v, or puts too much power in via the pins... The regulator goes pop. Guess how I know...🙄 General fault finding tip 1. Check the power is what it is supposed to be. Amazing how many times that turns out to be the problem. I keep a few regulators and USB sockets to hand. Recovered more than one Arduino that way. And a few ESPs.
Yes I should have dived a bit deeper but I saw it and realised that I might be a little out of my depth, PLUS the return for effort ratio was dropping rapidly! 👍😀
The 3rd pad usually indicates that it is a crystal resonator, which basically is a crystal oscillator with built-in caps to GND (hence why you need the 3rd pad). If you want to replace it with a crystal oscillator you would need to add those caps to GND externally.
You may not have much luck finding a ProMini 3.3v running at 16MHz. The official specs for the ATmega328P requires 4.5-5.5v for 0-20MHz operation. It can do 0-10MHz at 2.7-5.5v. Also; the tab on the AMS1117 is Vout, not GND :)
Tempting me to dig though my scavenge bag. Got a couple of DOA ESP32 boards. Never imagined it might be something as simple as the regulator, figured I'd have to replace the modules.
I was surprised it was so simple - I was just going to check them and turf them if it was anything too complex...but...voltage regulator! ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
If someone tries to run em at 5v, or puts too much power in via the pins... The regulator goes pop.
Guess how I know...🙄
General fault finding tip 1. Check the power is what it is supposed to be. Amazing how many times that turns out to be the problem.
I keep a few regulators and USB sockets to hand. Recovered more than one Arduino that way. And a few ESPs.
Good luck. 👍😀
I think the third, central pad on the SMD crystal is just shield grounding so it probably wouldn't have mattered much for testing.
Yes I should have dived a bit deeper but I saw it and realised that I might be a little out of my depth, PLUS the return for effort ratio was dropping rapidly! 👍😀
The 3rd pad usually indicates that it is a crystal resonator, which basically is a crystal oscillator with built-in caps to GND (hence why you need the 3rd pad). If you want to replace it with a crystal oscillator you would need to add those caps to GND externally.
Some EPROM programmers can set Atmel fuses. My GQ-4X has salvaged some ATtiny85s.
Doesn't do GALs though grr..
It should prove a cautionary tale for next time…maybe. 😬
You may not have much luck finding a ProMini 3.3v running at 16MHz. The official specs for the ATmega328P requires 4.5-5.5v for 0-20MHz operation. It can do 0-10MHz at 2.7-5.5v.
Also; the tab on the AMS1117 is Vout, not GND :)
Ahh thank you for that. I normally look up the pinout but to be honest I had zero expectation at that stage it was going to be such a simple fix! 👍😀