ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 30 มี.ค. 2018
- This year, many new ESP32 boards appeared on the market. Today I will review ten different boards which have a battery connection, but no display. All results are assembled in a comparison table, but maybe you watch the video for my explanations which might help you to understand the consequences of a particular choice, or at least to assess if you can trust my findings.
As usual, I found significant differences between the boards which can influence your buying decisions.
These are the contenders:
WMOS /18650: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/bUZrVF2
LOLIN32/Wemos: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/aAAuZ7e
TTGO s.click.aliexpress.com/e/EUrFMjA
TTGO Mini s.click.aliexpress.com/e/niUJieY
TTGO Pico www.aliexpress.com/item/TTGO-...
LOLIN32 Pro Python www.aliexpress.com/item/LOLIN...
Lolin Lite www.aliexpress.com/item/WEMOS...
Higrow www.aliexpress.com/item/higro...
Wemos Pro s.click.aliexpress.com/e/UNvJEAm
FireBeetle www.dfrobot.com/product-1590....
- And the Bare ESP on a PCB as a comparison for current consumption
These are the criteria:
- Does the board use a shielded module or just a chip soldered on the PCB?
- How many pins are broken out to pin headers?
- Does the board come with an antenna connector for an external antenna?
- Is the board breadboard friendly?
- How clear is the pin labeling?
- Does the board have an additional “flash” button?
- Is a battery switch available?
- Which battery connector do you need?
- Does the board crash if you disconnect USB?
- What type of voltage regulator and LiPo management chips are used?
- How much current does the board consume?
Links:
Comparison Table: bit.ly/2J9jpdu
JST-GH connector cables: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/mIMF2VV
JST-XH connector cables: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/3f2RB2R
Other links:
Supporting Material and Blog Page: www.sensorsiot.org
Github: www.github.com/sensorsiot
My Patreon Page: / andreasspiess
If you want to support the channel, please use the links below to start your shopping. No additional charges for you, but I get a commission (of your purchases the next 24 hours) to buy new stuff for the channel
For Banggood bit.ly/2jAQEf4
For AliExpress: bit.ly/2B0yTLL
For ebay.com: ebay.to/2DuYXBp
profile.php?...
/ spiessa
www.instructables.com/member/...
Please do not try to Email me or invite me on LinkedIn. These communication channels are reserved for my primary job
Equipment in my lab: www.sensorsiot.org/my-lab/ - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
So much information in under 12 minutes! Your productions are really excellent. Thank you.
You are welcome!
Another lovely video that can save me lots of time on browser in future! Your work is so much worth than the little you get from us on petrion.
I am happy about your support on Patreon. It helps!
This work you have done is fantastic and will save me a lot of work. Such a wonderful job you have done.
That was the intention. One does it and the rest can profit...
The first video I see today which is not April fools ;-) Thanks for the great overview !
Why are you so sure? ;)
Probably because we Swiss are not famous for our humor?
Andreas Spiess, or may be there are no fools in Switzerland... :)
Great video. After two years I still find it useful. Are you willing to do an update?
Extremely useful video. Greatly appreciate and love all of your work. Thanks for the comparison table.
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for doing this review; it has come at the perfect time as I was about to start with my home automation, all inspired by you, Sehr geehrter Herr Spiess :)
Enjoy!
Learn so much from your videos. Especially the thinking process behind the tests. Thanks
You are welcome!
Amazing comparison! Thanks a lot for all this work!
:-)
Andreas you're becoming an essential and trustworthy reference for all sorts of things! Blast from the past; I was just now using my Engineer PA09 crimpers as recommended by one of your first videos... ;-)
I also use it nearly daily. And I am still happy with it...
And once again: many thanks for your mostly useful and ever informative videos (and your humor)! (and patreon is a very good idea in these days of open source and open information...)
I also like the idea of Patreon to stay independent.
Thanks Andreas, perfect summary of a host of different boards, very useful.....
Thank you!
Fantastic video, you are answering a question I have had for a while! Thanks!
You are welcome!
Excellent overview and well commented/documented. This will help me to choose !
Thank you!
Great testing as always, thank you!
You are welcome!
My goodness, that looked like a lot of work. The pics really help.
I had to use numbers. Otherwise, I was lost because also the pictures are very similar ;-)
Great comparison! Excellent work! Thank you!
You are welcome!
Thanks for sharing 😀👍
Happy Easter for all 😀
:-)
I've got some of those Lolin32-boards months ago already and I'm quite happy with them. With a separate connector for a battery the form-factor is much more useable IMHO than with those with soldered-on 18650-holder, and otherwise the design is very minimalistic, which means no sudden surprises or junk drawing power unnecessarily.
Yeah, I don't disagree with you, but at least it's a minor issue. I've seen some sellers ship those boards with small stickers with the pin-labels, so you can slap the sticker on the board after soldering the pins, which isn't exactly an optimal workaround, but it's workable -- I don't have any links handy to share, though, as it's been awhile since I last bought some.
This is the reason for the table. You can filter what matters for you.
Now that I have watched enough of your videos, I have finally gotten over the accent (easy) and the gloves (not so easy). Your videos are awesome! Thank you so much for your contributions to the community! The technological singularity will probably consider you a god worthy of permanent remembrance, and it might name a node after you!
Oh yes, another thing, I appreciate how you get straight to the point without a lot of preamble. My time is so precious, I really hate when people waste time giving background info explaining why the video exists. If I don't understand why, I can always go to a more fundamental video and learn the background info. Going straight for the jugular is greatly appreciated!
Thank you for your compliment. My intention is always to save your time. This is why you did not see any "live streams" on this channel. I try to cut what is not necessary...
Thank you! This is brilliant. Exactely what I needed!
Glad it was helpful!
Very useful review, thank you! Especially as it seems most of the I2C issues on the ESP32 Arduino will likely get solved in the near future. There's a fork with reportedly better working I2C support being currently reviewed/cleaned up to be merged into the main project. I don't remember just now the developers name but it can be found from one of the I2C issue thread discussions. The I2C issues have been a blocker for me to start moving forward from the trusty but limited ESP8266.
So far I have no big experience with I2C on the ESP.
I found this review helpful, thanks
:-)
Very helpful as usual! Double thanks for NOT April fooling us :-)
We Swiss are not well known for our humor ;-) So we stick to what we do best.
another excellent video, I admire your work
Thank you!
Hi
This is a really helpfull video, thank you very much.
I have a lot of those 18650 Boards to work with. Can i replace the AMS1117 on the board with something better suitable?
Not easy. The HT7333 has a different pinout. Maybe you find one with the same pinout or another viewer knows one
One of the best video for ESP battery powered project decision.
A very good excel sheet , but I miss the ESP32-WROOM 30pin.
I would call this a "module" and not a board. You should find all values in its datasheet.
Outstanding information! Question about the Firebeetle. It's the best from a deep sleep perspective but I'm wondering if there is any concern with the chip being rev 0 instead of 1?
There are a few differences. You can Google. Usually I try to avoid rev 0 boards these days.
Thank you for your effort. It is so helpful.
You're welcome!
I would be glad to see the power consumption of the two boards with the LED removed. Especially the TTGO Pico board. It could be a candidate for a low power board with the LED removed. Like this so Andreas sees it and tests it :)
Maybe somebody adds the numbers?
Hello Andreas! Nice work as usual. I recently purchase two of the HiGrow units and have not been able to load any code on either of them. Could you please suggest an approach for configuring these boards. My search of the web has not helped and I would really like to use these boards this growing season via WiFi and MQTT Thanks for everything
So far I did not continue to work with them. So I do not know more.
thank you very much, awesome review!
You are welcome!
Great comparator I think my boards maybe lemons
It would be really nice to merge this with the previous sheet of modules tested. Its interesting that some of the boards have 40 pins broken out which is more than the bare ESP-Wroom 32 module (36) tested! It would be good to know also if these extra pins are useful. Many thanks for your work Andreas - keep it up :)
Maybe I will do it. The criteria were not exactly the same
I really appreciate your video's. I have learned more from your no bull shit way of showing information than I did in 2 years in trade school. I sometimes wish I was your neighbor to be able to swap stories and projects..lol thanks again...
Thank you for your nice words!
Hi Andreas, great video, it has been a big help on my project.
You may have covered it in the video and i missed it, whats the reason board consume so much less current when powered via the battery than by usb? ie 53 micro amps vs 11,000 micro amps for the firebeetle.
Thanks again,
Mike
There are more components on the board which consume power (LDO, serial to USB converter, etc.)
@@AndreasSpiess Thanks for the quick reply, removing/de-soldering the the CP2102 usb converter on a nodemcu V1 board dropped me from 10 milli-amps to micro amps.
Great Video, thank you.
What I can recommend to test: Are the boards booting automatically on the following cases:
- A new battery gets inserted (or a battery power cable gets inserted)
- A USB power supply (e.g. power bank, USB power supply gets connected.)
I figured out that sometimes the ESP32 does not issue a proper reset when a USB power source gets connected or when a battery gets inserted. The problem here is that a power outage will not boot the ESP32 again which means it cannot run autonomous.
Regards from Arduino Hannover
What I tested is to connect and disconnect the USB power. As mentioned, this is the usual case for me (also for solar). I did not disconnect the battery. You should find it in the table. Changing the battery for me is maintenance ;-)
Another good video - great public service! How long does it take you to do such a video?? And a question if I may - I followed your "how to use ESP32 with Arduino IDE " guide and somehow it didn't work for me. Do you have a recommendation for a simple guide how to make it work?
1. I have channel update videos where I talk about the "behind the scenes"
2. I have a video on the setup of the ESP32.
Hi. Awesome video! Do you have some video talking about ESP32 socket sending/receiving continuously data to Server? Thank you in advance!
No, I never used WebSocket
I'm running an esp32 that has WiFi an bt classic and it gets hot enough to hurt my fingers when either is active, LOL.
If you want to do socket connections, you're going to have to read the entire manual. I feel for you, man!
Thanks for this awesome video! Would have been great to also have the dimensions of the devices!!
So far nobody offered to add them :-(
Thank you for this upload! I was originally looking for info on the TTGO Mini32 T7 1.4 and learned a lot of generally useful stuff here.
Do you (or anyone, please!) have an idea where to find the datasheet for said model? I'm not looking for schematics or pinout diagrams.
Instead I need to know the voltage tolerance on the battery connector.
Also: How do you disable the LED in deep-sleep-mode? Do you just desolder it?
TTGO maintains a GitHub page with most of the diagrams. Google should find it.
And desoldering the diode is usually the only possibility...
Many many thanks for these videos, this gives inspiration.
Question: ss there really a BME280 included in the TTGO T18 ? I can't see it on the board (the diagram shows it, but I can't see it on the board).
Mine has no BME280
@@AndreasSpiess Thanks for your response. Might be worth putting a note in the comparison sheet about it.
Indeed, BME280 is listed as additional feature, but there is none (in some versions?).
I checked and it is not mentioned on my list as an add on. Maybe it has the footprint for one (there is an unpopulated "socket" in the PCB.
@@AndreasSpiess I see "MBME280" on the Spreadsheet, cell P34 (column "additional devices"). May be I interpreted the column wrongly, or I don't have the right version.
Anyway, thanks for the great job!
You are right! I looked at a different place. Now it should be corrected. Thank you!
Excellent!
Thank you.
:-)
danke !
Frohe Ostern!!! ( ohne EDV ;-) )
Du siehst, ich war nicht am Computer heute ;-) Frohe Ostern (oder den Rast davon)
Andreas, just wanted to say that I'm prototyping a temperature/humidity sensor using the ESP-12F bare module. My power source is going to be 3xAA so I'm using a little voltage regulator breakout from eBay to output 3.3V. My budget multimeter shows this setup uses 115uA in deep sleep which is ok and should give me 6-9 months hopefully. Still experimenting to try and get the longest runtime. Keep up the good work!
Not that anyone cares but just to keep updated. After measuring current some more it appears that the culprit is the DHT21 temp sensor. It stays powered on while the ESP is in deep sleep which accounts for about 105 of the 115uA that is being consumed. Need to come up with a way to power it down while the ESP is in deep sleep.
Last chapter, tried using one of the digital pins to power the DHT21 but during deep sleep the GPIO pins seem to float up from ground. Ended up with 1.9v on the pins no matter what I tried. So I went with a 2N2222 transistor low side switch config to switch power on the DHT21. Still uses a digital pin to control the power but it now switches the temp sensor off during deep sleep. Down to 27uA which is good enough for me.
Good concept. This is how I would have done Maybe I would have used a FET as a switch, but this does not matter...
Thanks excellent review
You are welcome!
Thank you for sharing video. it really very helpful. ....thanks alot
You are welcome!
Without any previous knowledge, I purchased a low cost DOIT ESP32 Devkit V1 and decoder module, to build a simple breadboard internet radio. This may have been a hasty decision. While the pin to pin spacing is correct, the side to side spacing of the headers is not bread board friendly in that it is 9 rows wide. That only leaves a row of pins on one side of the board. That is on a typical 10 row + two power rail rows breadboard. Oh, and the internet radio works to some degree but stutters a lot. I'm not deeply involved in the electronics part of the project. Just wished to copy someone's talent. I probably selected the wrong ESP32 board. While this video is way over my head, it may help with my next ESP32 selection. Thank you. New subscriber.
Welcome aboard the channel!
Thank you master! Great video!
:-)
Good comparison, as always. Thanks. But still too expensive for serious use. For that price it is possible to purchase 3 or even 4 ESP8266 boards. Or serious SBC for only little more.
For me, all this Chinese stuff is cheap compared with what I had to pay a few years ago....
Thanks, this really helps.
You are welcome!
Excellent vidéo, thanks. Would this be a good candidate for a diy portable Internet radio with wifi to router?
Why not a radio? You just need the software
Thanks Andreas. That is a very useful comparison. Could you tell me what does "Yes" in "USB Power on/off possible" column mean?
Does it mean you can connect/disconnect USB without the ESP resetting
OR
Does it mean connecting/disconnecting USB may reset the ESP?
OR
Does it mean something else?
Yes means #1 of your proposed sentences.
Thanks! I ordered some Number 2 boards based on your current measurement and other comments here.
Hi, can you elaborate on how did you connected the LiPo to bare bone esp32. If I am correct, connecting a fully charged LiPo (4.2V) can fry the esp32 so some voltage regulation must be needed in between.
The ESP32 is rated up to 3.6 volts. So you need a voltage regulator for a Li_Po battery
Thank you for sharing.
You are welcome!
This is a godsend! Thanks!
:-)
if you ever update / extend this comparison, check out the "ttgo t1" and "ttgo t8" (there are a few other models like "t7", "t5", "t2", etc., but some of those have screens).
possibly also test the sparkfun "esp32 thing" and "adafruit huzzah32", to see if they have different power consumption from the clones, and are worth paying more (probably not).
I plan a comparison of boards with displays and some TTGOs will be part of it. So far I did not test any "American" boards because they are extremely expensive here (shipping cost doubles the already high price).
the t1 and t8 dont have screens, they look like variants of the ones you tested here.
and yes, shipping from the us to europe (or vice versa) can be quite expensive. china seems to have figured out that, by having subsidized shipping, they can greatly increase their exports. and half the work is done by the postal services of the _destination_ country, anyway. for free.
Thanks a lot for this useful comparison.
- Could you add a column "CE/FCC" certification? You mentioned it in the vid but not in the table. It gets more and more important as the customs e.g. in Germany hav a look on that.
- encouraging results for quiescent current during deep sleep, espec. with RT9080 Regulator. On the other hand: using wifi will spoil this results und unfortunately using BT or BLE too. So up to now I am still using my ESPs with grid power and for off-grid battery applications some cheap 433MHz or less cheap 868MHz Homematic sensors/actors. Perhaps it might be interesting to use ESP32 in combination with cheap 433MHz transmitters?
1. All WROOM and WROOVER boards have an FCC label printed on them.
2. Maybe I will do something with 433 in the future. I have a few components laying around...
Thanks for your Reply.
currently I am using a dozend cheap 433MHz sensors, collecting the data with RFLink and ioBroker. The sensors are cheap but sometimes strange. Water leakage sensors e.g. give you an Alarm when becoming wet, but not a clear state as "dry" or "wet".
it would be a good idea to have an updated version of this video
Maybe I will do it one day...
Very helpful video. It seems however that a number of the boards with the lowest deep sleep current are discontinued. I have not been able to find a bare bones ESP32 on a PCB from any outlet although I have found PCBs for sale and the bare ESP32 modules for sale. I have not attempted surface mount soldering yet and I wondered if you know of anywhere that sells pre-soldered modules? I have a solar powered project that I am working on and very low current sleep would be a great help.
Look at our Superpower project. There two teams try to build a low power board for ESPs and a UPS for a Raspberry
great and helpfull as usual. Good that you are around and I have not only to relay on the swiss army knife. Do you also have the numbers for the Lolin ESP32 wemos ESP32 WiFi Module + Bluetooth Dual ESP-32 ESP-32S ESP8266?
Which number?
the numbers for the test you made with all the boards. Would love to see the Lolin ESP32 in your list.
Which one? Can you provide a link?
sure, ow.ly/DZW21011sMd
I do not think this board has a battery. You have to add a second shield to it. In this test, I only had boards with battery management on board.
This board is very limited as it does not breakout many pins. It is good for compatibility reasons.
Very nice comparison, Andreas. Thank you for shopping so I don't have to! That said, I am disappointed: none of these boards includes an external antenna connector. It is notoriously difficult to add a connector as vendors seldom provide a decent ground anywhere near the ubiquitous spaghettenna.
Two have antenna connectors.
So they do! This is what I get for half watching your video while I work on a project. Sorry.
:-)
thanks for the comparison! dissapointing that the Higrow sucks so much energy in deep sleep. Why is that? Are the Sensors (soil moisture/dht11)powered all the time?
As I mentioned, I did not test if you can switch them off. And I mentioned also the AMS1117 which is very bad for that purpose (watch my ESP8266 deep-sleep videos)
I wonder how good the battery managment really is. Under and Overvoltage Protection, correct charging current , ...
Any experiences?
I would like to find out as well
me too
and also if is possible to put a warning for low voltage in arduino code
If you know the chips used you can consult the datasheets. Most of the boards have no protection, as I said in the video. You always can monitor voltage with an analog input of the ESP and go to deep sleep if too low.
You can buy 18650 cells with a protection IC built into the end.
Very good and useful video!
Thanks!
You are welcome!
Another great video, quite useful!
Thank you!
Could you review the "TTGO Micro" esp32 module? It is so small that I wonder if there is any drawback when comparing it to the wroom32 module.
I think it is very similar to the bigger ones.
do you think, it is possible to connect a solar panel to the wmos18650 to create a complete
self-sufficient weather station (only light and temp mess.)?
What solar panel would you recommend?
If you answerd a similar question before, please excusethe double and tell me on which video.
Maybe I create such a solar combination with the boards I got in my recent mailbag. I made a video about solar power where I show how to calculate panel size and battery size
I found this extremely helpful. But... do you know of similar research for the esp8266?
I do not remember all my nearly 300 videos :-( But we did not get as many different ESP8266 boards. So, maybe it was not needed
Thanks for this video. I can't get firebeetle below 800uA in deepsleep. What kind of setup did you use to achieve 50 uA? (I am able to get sparkfun thing down to 500 uA). Thanks.
Did you see that I measured the battery current?
Hello Andreas, could you add links to these battery connector cables in your description, thx Hansjörg
thx
Done
Do you attribute the Firebeetle's deep sleep performance to the RT9080 voltage regulator or to something else in the design?
I do not know. But the regulator is always an important contributor.
Have you also tested the 18650 battery management and protection against deep discharge?
No. But you can consult the datasheets of the voltage regulators.
I think its not working. My new 18650 is deep discharged after 10 days now. i had trouble bringing it to life again. i bought: www.amazon.de/gp/product/B077998XCN/ i will try the FireBeetle next as it looks promising.
today i found out that the switch on this device does not prevent it from emptying the battery to 0.
This is so useful, thanks
You are welcome!
That antenna connector looks like a perfect candidate for an oscillo probe :D Do we have raw access to the signal received by the antenna?
I do not know
Has any one had success powering the TTGO Pico through the JST connector with a Lipo pack ? I have 2 of these boards, and both go into a reset-loop. I even added a capacitor across the power supply...
They boot normally if powered on the micro-USB port.
Strange. Mine booted from a battery. But I only tested one short sketch to measure currents.
The beste explication ever made
:-)
I know this is an older video and you probably know this by now, but in case you don't, at 5:30 you mention the flash button isn't necessary because the Arduino IDE does it automatically for you which isn't true. That only happens if the the boards have two npn transistors that automatically switch the Enable and GPIO0 of the ESP32 when the DTR and RTS pins of the USB_UART converter change state (when you upload/download code to the ESP32), the IDE isn't even aware of this. Other than that, excellent video.
You are right, of course. The board on 5:30 has those transistors.
Has anyone testet the new Wemos D32 which supposed to be the successor of the retired LOLIN32 Board? Wemos Wiki says that is has 5 LEDs build-in so i'm wondering if one or more of them are also active in deep sleep and how the boards differ in power consumption. All in all the Lolin32 looks like the best board in price performance.
Such great work and as always the highest SNR! Wemos Pro seems to have solder pads that could be used for an external antenna. Anybody know if that's feasible?
I saw it, too. I just ordered a few connectors to try it. We have to see if we have to change also another part.
Excellent, thanks Andreas! I hope more of these boards feature external antenna connectors in future.
I am doing a project with the Firebeetle and the table says that it uses a JST-XH. I purchased the cables in the link above and they do not fit. They are slightly too big and have 2 plastic locks vs a center guide slot pin. Any idea what the actual connector is?
You are right. I corrected the spreadsheet to PH 2.0. They should work.
I am using DFRobot FireBeetle ESP32 IoT Microcontroller (Supports Wi-Fi & Bluetooth) and connected OLED, e-paper and a sensor and power is also supplied from from ESP32(from 3.3V pinout) then in this case what power we assume this FireBeetle ESP will consume in deep sleep?. Current the ESP which I am using continue to supply power to these components even when I put it in deep sleep.
You have to measure your entire setup to know it because of the different parts you use.
Thank-you!!
You are welcome!
Super gemacht, Daumen hoch!
Danke!
If you use ESP32 DEVKIT V1 you can remove the SILABS CP210x USB to UART Bridge and the AMS1117 voltage regulator for power savings. You can use an external USB to UART converter to program your ESP32 board
I usually use an ESP wroover module if I do not need any other components.
Andreas, what is USB power on/off possible on the comparison sheet? I need a board that has external antenna connection with low energy consumption during deep sleep. The board and some other sensors and motor will be powered by solar. Is the TTGO PICO or MINI a good choice? Is there an easy way to disable the LED or remove it to minimize energy consumption during deep sleep? If these two boards are not ideal do you have any suggestions?
Another question for ESP32 in general: is the ultra low power coprocessor and available pins capable of controlling one stepper motor and recording measurements from two different sensors at the same time during deep sleep?
Thank you. -Van
USB on/off means that you can disconnect USB and the device does not reboot (if it has a battery, of course).
I never worked with the ULP, it is very hard to program and its intention is to do low-level stuff and switch the main processor on if needed. Controlling steppers is maybe a too big task. And steppers anyway need a lot of energy, they are not really low power.
Thank you, Andreas. Would lowering the clock frequency to 2 or 8 MHz an alternative to putting the main processors to sleep? I guess I will have to try different frequencies to figure out the minimum at which sensors and stepper still work. The board that I purchased does not have battery connection, only USB. Can I cut the USB cable and solder one end to a 3xAA battery holder? Also, is there a way to charge those batteries with solar while the ESP32 is running? Do you have any suggestion for battery charger / controller using 5 or 6V (5-10W) solar panel? I’m using Panasonic eneloop batteries. Sorry I’m new at microcontrollers.
As a separate question, if I want to connect my board to a cloud platform using cellular, should I use stm32 nucleo 144 with LTE Cat M1 for best battery management?
Thanks again,
-Van
I made a few videos about the ESP8266 and power management. The ESP32 is not too different. If you want to use batteries I strongly suggest you use a board which is made for that. Otherwise, you have to solve all the questions you ask yourself.
Concerning LTE: I never used this technology and can not answer your question
Thank you, Andreas.
-Van
Is it possible to fight with brown-out with battery charger (like TP4056) and voltage regulator (like XC6206P332)? Or only capacitor could fix that? Thx!
Good voltage regulators and large capacitors are the best against brownouts.
Thx a lot! I'm really novice and want to make really small device. As I understand, there are no large SMD capacitors, so, it'll increase size of final result :-(
Hey, One question : Do Power consumption in deep sleep don't depend on the system what is connected to the ESP32.
Yes. Additional parts usually consume energy.
Nice video! Can we see a video on AWS iot and ESP32!
So far I never worked with AWS.
I was also searching for a development board which consumes not that much power. The Firebeetle ESP32 beets everything but since they are still shipped with revision 0 chips I can not recommend them. If you still want to get a board with low power consumption go for the WEMOS Lolin32 (not Lite-Version). Other sources confirm, that it consumes 135µA in Deep sleep. The regulator on the Wemos Lolin32 is an ME6211. The Lipo Charger on it is the TP4054.
Do you refer to my #2 board? Or is it a different one?
Yes I refer to the board #2 in your video.
Where did you get the information concerning the chips?
From the Video "Tech Note 062" from the channel G6EJD
Thanks. In the meantime, a viewer pointed me to the original diagram on the Wemos page.
You did all the hard work so we dont have to..Thanks.. It looks like a bare-bones wroom with a home built lipo/power management is the only option (the 'best' board increases power consumption more than 50 times!!).
That is what we try to build in the superpower project
@@AndreasSpiess Awesome project, thanks for making me aware.
9:38 - So the TTGO boards are the only ones that have a power LED that is on whenever power is applied? I don't know why people do that for small battery circuits like this. At most they should just have a LED that flashes every few seconds when on battery. And ideally provide either a pair of headers that can be jumpered to use the LED or provide a thin marked trace that can easily be cut.
You can easily remove such small LEDs with a soldering iron. I just did not want to disturb the comparison
Andreas, I agree with your testing method but the manufacture should be considering such an obvious mistake. It's fine to have a power LED when on USB power but when on battery the LED is likely using the majority of the power. Going from 880uA with the LED to likely about 80uA without will have a huge impact on battery life for something that spends most of its time in deep sleep.
For later updates I would be interested in seeing the numbers with them removed.
So which one would you prefer for garden weather-station with LiPo battery?
I have no favorite. You decide according to the table.
Great video thanks! I have a question regarding board nr 1 (that I own). Your explanation makes a lot of sense and now it is clear why the battery drains so fast despite DeepSleep. But - on 2nd sight - how can it work at all? The AMS1117 has a dropout voltage of 1.1V, correct? So even at the minimum voltage of the ESP32 of 2.55V, the AMS would need 3.65V from the battery. The battery is rated at 3.7V which means that even in those extreme conditions it would only last very short time before the VREG would stop working? For the normal range of 3.3V (-> 4.4 V before AMS) it wouldn't even deliver enough voltage? What am I missing? Does anyone have schematics for that board? I can't find them anywhere
You have to do your measurements. The AMS1117 dropout spec is at 0.8A. Maybe the dropout voltage is smaller with smaller currents. Anyway, maybe you watch my newest video about the topic? I would never use an AMS1117 for battery-operated boards.
@@AndreasSpiess Thanks Andreas! I understood the necessary above dropout voltage for the AMS1117 is delivered by the TP5410 which is also a boost converter pushing the battery voltage to 5V when the system is powered from battery. Didn't know that before. But as you say, choosing an AMS1117 seems to be a poor choice for that use case unfortunately :-( Just noticed the video you mentioned! Thanks and keep up the great work!
Great, thanks!
You are welcome!
Very good video! Good job!
Thank you!
i´m thinking about making a weather station with a big 7.5 inch waveshare eink display. At the moment i have an arduino pro mini powered one with the 2.9 inch eink, but a bigger screen would be better ... However it´s impossible on the Arduino since it´s too slow and lacks memory.
You can buy esp32 based driver boards on amazon for the bigger waveshare eink screens . However, i´m not sure if they are sufficient for battery usage. My arduino pro-mini version (with DS3231, DHT22, BMP280 and SD-card) only uses 50µA in deep sleep and lasts more than 1 year on 3 AA batteries. However, it was a long way to get there. I´m using no voltage regulator, no USB-connector, no LEDs, deep sleep on every chip, deactiveting power from the sd card board and so on ...
I know from experience that all the arduino boards with onboard usb connectors, are useless for battery powered projects. So how about this esp32 board ? Can you deactivate everything that uses too much power via software or is it like with the arduino boards that only special versions are capable of ultra low power consumption during sleep cycles ?
Looking at your list, it looks quite bad. Only the bare esp32, the firebeetle and maybe the TTGO seem usable. So how do i know if a board i buy as a "driver board" is a real low power capable board or not ?
THX.
www.amazon.de/Waveshare-Resolution-Electronic-Controller-Raspberry/dp/B075R69T93/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=waveshare%2Beink&qid=1589555290&sr=8-5&th=1
www.amazon.de/Waveshare-Resolution-Electronic-Controller-Raspberry/dp/B07M5CNP3B/ref=sr_1_5?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&dchild=1&keywords=waveshare%2Beink&qid=1589555290&sr=8-5&th=1
You either find information on the internet about power consumption or you have to try it yourself :-(
Awesome video!
:-)
You’re just the coolest and top professional.
Wow, thanks!
Very informative video Andreas! Thank you very much again! I have the: WEMOS ESP32 with 18650 battery, but after I charged the battery, the ESP doesn't work, when unplugged from USB port. Did you experienced the same, or am I doing something wrong again? Do you have a sample code for it I can test? I've tried the samples, but as soon the ESP is unplugged from USB, it doesn't work - with the switch ON or OFF. Or anyone else who has a suggestion or sample code, I appreciate any help. Thank you all!
I do no more remember everything :-( But maybe you can check the voltages at different positions to find out what happens?
@@AndreasSpiess I did, I have a trace but it is possible that I must upload something to the ESP that turns on the 18650 battery? ... I'll try more poking around. Thanks for your reply Andreas.
I do not think that pins of the ESP are connected to the battery circuit.
@@AndreasSpiess OK, thanks for your suggestion. I'll see Sat/Sunday about that. Have a great weekend!