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doesn't work with arduino 1.8 sad face, not going to update, I already tried and my old code not workie anymore, so fk it staying with 1.8, it works..but not for this

I have been using it extensively for x6 months ...great board

After wiring the circuit as per your schematic, only the 1st led lights up to full brightness with 5v, and the others just flicker when sound is put through the condenser mic. Thanks

Many Many Thank You Sir, I recently started using the CH32X033

Just today ran into something similar where I screwed up my port config (working in C) and I couldn't flash anymore, bricking two chips. Whenever I would hook the chip up to the WCH-Link through SWD, V, G, I would see the red LED on the board glow faintly. Whenever I tried to identify the chip with "minichlink -i", it said the wrong chip ID (CH32V10x) and I got a bunch of "Fault on op (DMABSTRACTS = ffffffff) (-1) (Other Error) DMSTATUS: ffffffff" back, leading me to hypothesize I had somehow set the programming pin to pull up and minichlink was just seeing a flat high signal. I screwed around with a bunch of resistors to try and pull the SWD line back to ground enough to avoid this pull-up until the "minichlink -i" would read back "link error, nothing connected to linker (4 = [81 55 01 01])." Trying to put processor in hold and retrying." signalling to me that I had pulled hard enough that I was hopefully in the sweet spot to get some kind of signal through. This part is super finicky and seems chip dependent, so a trimmer pot would be better, but between 500 to 1.2k ohm seems to be the sweet spot. For the chip I re-bricked to methodologically test while writing this procedure a 1k resistor worked fine, but your millage may vary. Also, counterintuitively, having these resistors caused the red LED to get brighter, so don't worry about that. Then, when I would "pogo" the power jumper to the chip against the 5V power rail, I'd every now and again see "CH32V003" properly show up when running "minichlink -i" (If your resistance is too high it'll keep giving the wrong chip ID, if its too low you'll never see the chip ID show up, so those are your canaries if your resistance is off). Once I was seeing CH32V003 show up semi-regularly when pogo-ing, I queued up "minichlink -u" (it seems like the newest version stalls while waiting for the chip to show up), plugged the chip into power with ground already connected and SWD attached to the pull-down resistor, and the chip erase worked fine. Unplugged the WCH-Link, plugged it back in with the pull-down resistor removed and the chip already wired to power, flashed with Embeetle, blinky works fine.

nice project. just a tip.. make sure to put decoupling caps close to the chip.

The PA2 pin did not work as an output because some pins on ch32v003 have multiple functions. The default function of PA2 is not output. You have to remap it to make it work.

That animation must have taken forever. Thumbs up !

GitHub link?

Thank you for your lesson, sir, it's useful for me 👍

Would this work for powering a TV remote control, by just leaving the remote & solar collector on a window sill when not in use?

super capacitor can never replace even a tiny battery... your video is missing the actual device to use this...

nice. but no sun, no powa...huiii...magic....

Nice! Been thinking of using that trick for wireless sensors - Padauk too. Looking forward to the next video!

Always good.👍 👍 👍 👍

What does that mean? You're in tasmania and not used to sunlight😂 I would drop that resistor to about 25 ohms

Always good.👍 👍 👍 👍

Cool.

I came across your vid of the safety car led circuit If you add a set of LED's in reverse across the existing ones, they will flash alternately I made a vid 'Police WigWag light bar for models.' ;)

English England just found you're you tube videos thanking you most kindly

Plug in timers have come a long way since I got mine with the little plastic tabs around the rotating edge. LOL.

Measuring the capacity of supercats might make a nice video.

Your melted breadboard would trigger people's trypophobia lol - post it to your socials!

The ESP32-S2 only has one core, the ESP32-S3 is dual core. The ESP32-C3 is the cheap version with a different core.

Core Electronics === RPI I guessed it. 😆

Quick helper: it is AO like the o hello :D Anyway I really like mailbags, so keep 'm coming!

Lmao @ hot air gun on bread board. Screw ups = experience.

I'm a bit surprised that you didn't make the timer for the cat-hot-pad from an ESP and a MOSFET.

"... We're very responsible with our late night shopping ..." Instantly relatable.

I'm glad I'm not the only one

That round display looks very interesting.

Always good.👍 👍 👍 👍

Where do you buy the super capacitor? Mouser minimum quantity is 100!

CH32X035 is quite nice. Only costs a little bit more than the 003, but much more capacity.

Could you build me a HEX fuzz circuit such as the one Inspired by Craig Anderton and something about improving the HEX function, can this be made into a box with six outputs?

It would be nice to have a variant of the CH32v003 in the Arduino IDE with this Pins swapped like you showed and also the register manipulation done in the serial.begin method in the serial class-

The data sheet and reference manual are essential for this chip.

Nice to see that there are ways to fix frustrating problems if you open the box and dig in to look.

Just what I was looking for thanks!

The BS170/2N7000 were really aimed at 5V gate drive switching applications, so their maximum gate threshold can be problematic unless one is hand testing and binning for lower threshold specimens. That combined with their lower transconductance can be problematic in 3.3V circuits - especially at colder temperatures.

I'd have the fan blowing into the case. But the size of those components gets me. I've read books with bigger full stops.

Fan should indeed be blowing on the heat sink :) Also - I’m happy to see it didn’t fry the GPIO when you hooked it straight to it in the beginning. I don’t think a Raspberry Pi would’ve been that forgiving with trying that much current. The internal reverse diode might be enough for back EMF?

It has all the right things to run a pulse laser except the watts is to low. If I use an arduino to create a PWM , need 75w 12v 2.5-30a . Any ideas how to drive a 75w 905nm pulse laser diode with an arduino ? Pulse Drvers cost upward of $1500.

Hi, yes fan should blow onto heat sinks. The air flow when sucking comes via the least resistance path and so although will flow some air over heat sinks, most air movement will travel from sideways into the fan (as path of least resistance). Pushing the air onto the heat sinks will provide much moor cooling capacity as it will force air across the surface of the heat sink.

hello, you need a back emf diode (reverse) between the +5v and the drain in order to protect the AO3400 from high voltage while turning off the fan

Always good.👍 👍 👍 👍

Have you ever used an Airpax temp-activated passive switch? They have models that will close at 40C/50C/60C, etc.

I used this transistor for a 10 watt led. It's able to strobe at like 1mhz.

Many thanks for the time-saving idiot's guide to these things.They'd be perfect for my project,but as yet there's no RCSwitch library for them.

Nicely done.