Just a tip Stu, nothing wrong with your lintel installation, but I used to, in this instance, lay a layer of soft but good strength mix of mortar on top of the lintel (as if you were laying bricks on it) then offer it up and lift up in place using two bottle jacks. Best way to get a tight joint and then fill in your 150-200mm underneath each side. It will never move totally solid ! Really enjoy your channel BTW
An absolute joy to watch this. No corners cut, everything planned and explained in detail. Quite often the finer details are ignored, I've seen so many lintel installations on TH-cam that have failed to explain how to position the lintel and how to get the mortar around it. Holding the mortar holder/finishing trowel in position and pushing in the mortar with a square ended stick works far better than a finger trowel. Also loved the timber guide idea. I would've marked it with a pen or spray paint and, as you point out, once the dust starts it becomes completely invisible. Anyway, great video, my kind of work, belt and braces. Thank you!
Thank you so much for sharing and not speeding up through the most crucial parts. Installing the lintel was genius. I have a wall that I would love to put a large window or a sliding door. I'm still researching and hope to start my project in 2025. Thank you!
Lovely looking tidy job. Nice comment about carbon monoxide poisoning. I ended up in hospital last year when using the same grinder to cut a floor. Windiest day ever, doors open, 2 roof windows open, masked up I thought I'd be fine. Half hour of cutting and I was sick and then passed out on the lawn! Few hours in a and e to sort me out.
Love the way you work,,, we did break out a hole and then fit the lintel,,, lucky it was blocks and not bricks and garage didn't come tumbling down on us Now we know better,,,
Superb thanks. Only have one problem doing this myself. I'm scared to death of loosing a limb using one of those petrol grinders. I'm used to use table saws, angle grinders, jointers etc. Angle grinders are the most scary but that huge exposed blade is next level terrifying.
6:55 When pointing I have always used a 10mm mastic knife. Additives make the mortar more workable. Tap the mortar down on to your hawk or mortar board so it sticks to it and is approx 10mm thick or the thickness of the joint your filling. Then cut off sections the depth you require with your mastic knife and push it into the seam that you are filling.
A job well done. Much tidier and neater than a lot of so-callled ‘professional’ tradesmen. I’m a builder and I aim for the same level of care and attention when I’m working on other people’s homes as I do when working on my own. Really boils my piss to see other trades carelessly attacking jobs and making an unnecessary mess to save a couple of minutes. Equally annoying is seeing the state that job sites are left in, both at the end of the day and the end of the job.
Well thank you very much - especially coming from someone in the trade - I appreciate that. Unfortunately many 'professional' tradesman that I come across do lack the finer points as they are focused on earning money and getting onto the next job. I still believe that anyone who cares about the work and gives the customer 110% will never be out of work and will win in the long run.
@@ProperDIY I'll mention you in the same sentence as The Restoration Couple then another channel I enjoy very much although his watchword is "overengineering"!
6:54 - That mix might be too dry for this, but have you tried using a piping bag (or a generic plastic bag with one of the corners cut)? You just flatten the bag until it fits in the gap, slide it until the "spout" is at the end, and then squeeze it as you pull it out. Works well for regular (wetter) cement / mortar.
What a cracking video. Good use of the stick, it should not be underestimated. I liked your comment about the automatic amputation machine. Truth is, it easily capable of doing you proper damage. So don't muck about and protect yourself.
Great video, perfectly timed. I am just about to cut a hole for a new door and this pops up in my feed. I didn't even look for it. Thank you, this is going to be a great help. Good luck with the rest of the conversion.
I took my up and over garage door out recently,I had already made the frame and door to put straight in. The door which I had already made and is pre hung is 3” thick but I made mine to be outward opening to keep the floor space. I do like your video’s which are easy to watch and informative.👍👍
What a fabulous job. This is like watching snooker........the experts make it look easy, then I have a go! The finish is so neat on this job, well done.
I seen a job like this once but they was cutting through a seven inch thick wall. They had the lintel in all right but they left the sides looking like Plugg from the Bash Street Kids teeth.
Looks really smart in the end and much more useful than a huge brick wall! Good tip on fixing the batten for a straight cut, always pick up a tip I can use from your videos cheers.
Absolutely fantastic video, really enjoyed watching that. I've been wanting to do something like this for years, so great to see you in action! Great channel also, loving the content - please post some more of the workshop!
You are my new hero. Huuuuge man crush. 🤪 Seriously though, this is just about the most perfect a project video can get. I will be doing this indoors soon. Since the wall isn't that high I will probably have to support the top few rows before removing the bricks underneath. I'm thinking of drilling a hole right through a few of those top bricks and fixing them to an upright piece of timber. The walls will be plastered after so no worries about the holes in those bricks.
My tip is to fit frame and temporarily wedge and then use LOW VOLUME expanding foam to secure the door. You don’t need screws at all. So no filling of screw heads. And the door will close solidly. I don’t want to start a debate. Because I’m right :) try it. It secures the door many times stronger than screws. Nice video.
That was a satisfying project to watch and the end result looks great! I've actually used an SDS drill bit in an ordinary chuck once, but it actually damaged the SDS shank of the bit ever so slightly. The damage was barely noticeable but it meant that although the bit would fit into my SDS drill, I couldn't get it back out again without disassembling the SDS chuck and removing the ball bearing which retains the bit.
I did this only this week to install a UVPC door in the side wall of my garage although I did not use a concrete lintel my garage was also single skin. I used a stihl saw the do the cut out like a knife through butter. great video thumbs up from me
Good sir, a thousand thanks. Your work is excellent in all respects. The construction part, the pacing, the shooting, the editing - and the personality. I've been stuck indoors during lockdown and viewing too many videos. Your presentation and professionalism are head, shoulders and armpits above that of the idiots in back-to-front hats who shout at me. I could go on... But that's the way to make a video. I hope others will emulate you. Thank you. Very much.
Very clearly explained. You would have benefited from a tuck pointer when doing the pointing around the lintel, basically the same as your stick method. They are cheap but very useful.
REALLY well done and very instructive -- THANK YOU! By the way, you saved me from at least one potentially catastrophic blunder. Lucky to see this, I am.
A little tip. Use slate to pack up in between the lintel and the bricks and under the lintel to the seating, and then you can point up the rest of the gaps with normal mortar mix to make it blend in. Also where the lintel is sitting on the brickwork should be a minimum of 150mm so as not to cause shear on the perps.
Thank you! No drip-moulding over the lintel to divert rain water away from the door? Or am I still living in the mediaeval era of church architecture...
I want to add an additional grp electric meter box into the exterior wall cavity. only outside bricks needs removing. Can I use a metal flat bar in the mortar course to be the lintel?
Nice work . I have a question . It would be fine to make a bigger open on the side wall of the garage , to be able to open the car doors ? The car fits inside the garage but the car doors don't have space to be open .
What happens to the shims as you are setting the mortar? Pack behind and then take them out? I can see they are removed in the clip but it's not mentioned. Cheers !
About to do this on my new garage so this has helped a lot. I’ll be going for a bigger door but it’ll be done the same. I won’t be able to resist pushing the wall of bricks out though! 😂
Very good video. If you really didn't want to create loads of dust and messy water, could you stitch drill all the way down the walls or would that take a stupidly long time (I'm thinking an internal house wall where I really want to minimise mess)?
Nice job and i do believe if you had been a lot younger you would have pushed that wall over without a second thought, but with age comes common sense. I like your videos and the style in which they are presented. Keep up the good work my friend. I am a keen Diyer myself and always look to YT for inspiration. Thanks for posting.
I enjoy your methodical / no panic approach to every job, gives us amateur DIY’ers confidence to tackle our jobs
Just a tip Stu, nothing wrong with your lintel installation, but I used to, in this instance, lay a layer of soft but good strength mix of mortar on top of the lintel (as if you were laying bricks on it) then offer it up and lift up in place using two bottle jacks. Best way to get a tight joint and then fill in your 150-200mm underneath each side. It will never move totally solid ! Really enjoy your channel BTW
An absolute joy to watch this. No corners cut, everything planned and explained in detail. Quite often the finer details are ignored, I've seen so many lintel installations on TH-cam that have failed to explain how to position the lintel and how to get the mortar around it. Holding the mortar holder/finishing trowel in position and pushing in the mortar with a square ended stick works far better than a finger trowel. Also loved the timber guide idea. I would've marked it with a pen or spray paint and, as you point out, once the dust starts it becomes completely invisible. Anyway, great video, my kind of work, belt and braces. Thank you!
As a keen handy man I’m getting more confident watching your videos 👌🏻
That's good
Fantastic stuff ..I've searched endlessly to know how to do this putting in a window ..but no one until you explains better ..
Glad it helped
And you re-used some of the bricks for the step making it look like
It was always there from day 1. Great work.
Yes, well spotted - no point in spending money on new bricks!
Thank you so much for sharing and not speeding up through the most crucial parts. Installing the lintel was genius. I have a wall that I would love to put a large window or a sliding door. I'm still researching and hope to start my project in 2025. Thank you!
Lovely looking tidy job. Nice comment about carbon monoxide poisoning. I ended up in hospital last year when using the same grinder to cut a floor. Windiest day ever, doors open, 2 roof windows open, masked up I thought I'd be fine. Half hour of cutting and I was sick and then passed out on the lawn! Few hours in a and e to sort me out.
Oh wow - that doesn't sound good! Dangerous stuff carbon monoxide.
Nicely explained, not overkill, nicely filmed, I like the style of your videos.
Thank you - I try.
Love the way you work,,, we did break out a hole and then fit the lintel,,, lucky it was blocks and not bricks and garage didn't come tumbling down on us
Now we know better,,,
Superb thanks. Only have one problem doing this myself. I'm scared to death of loosing a limb using one of those petrol grinders. I'm used to use table saws, angle grinders, jointers etc. Angle grinders are the most scary but that huge exposed blade is next level terrifying.
6:55 When pointing I have always used a 10mm mastic knife. Additives make the mortar more workable. Tap the mortar down on to your hawk or mortar board so it sticks to it and is approx 10mm thick or the thickness of the joint your filling. Then cut off sections the depth you require with your mastic knife and push it into the seam that you are filling.
Thanks for sharing... I will use this to convince the Mrs. to let me add a pass door to our garage. Stay safe, Tim
One of the best DIY videos ever, an absolute masterclass!
Well thank you very much
Really nice and tidy work. Inspiring to watch 👍
I love the little details like filling the holes in the motar were you fixed the battens to guide the brick cuts
It's all in the detail!
Thank you for this very helpful video. I’m in the middle of my project. Will let you know when it’s complete.
Just found the channel, instant sub can't wait to watch the other videos, TH-cam algorithm finally came through.
A job well done. Much tidier and neater than a lot of so-callled ‘professional’ tradesmen. I’m a builder and I aim for the same level of care and attention when I’m working on other people’s homes as I do when working on my own. Really boils my piss to see other trades carelessly attacking jobs and making an unnecessary mess to save a couple of minutes. Equally annoying is seeing the state that job sites are left in, both at the end of the day and the end of the job.
Well thank you very much - especially coming from someone in the trade - I appreciate that. Unfortunately many 'professional' tradesman that I come across do lack the finer points as they are focused on earning money and getting onto the next job. I still believe that anyone who cares about the work and gives the customer 110% will never be out of work and will win in the long run.
absolutely agree, no need to watch another video and this was my second one; which the first one was great too, he actually made his own lintel.
Excellent stuff! You and the Gosforth Handyman are the best diy channels around.
Thank you. It's very strange when I've been watching Gosforth Handyman for a number of years to be mentioned in the same sentence - thank you.
@@ProperDIY I'll mention you in the same sentence as The Restoration Couple then another channel I enjoy very much although his watchword is "overengineering"!
Made a daunting job look easy. Well done!
Thank you
Superb video. Been wanting to do this, but seems very intimidating. Feeling a bit better now.
This kind of work is always difficult, but as always you have done a good job of such a difficult job. Well done. Thank you for an informative video.
Thank you
6:54 - That mix might be too dry for this, but have you tried using a piping bag (or a generic plastic bag with one of the corners cut)? You just flatten the bag until it fits in the gap, slide it until the "spout" is at the end, and then squeeze it as you pull it out. Works well for regular (wetter) cement / mortar.
now that really is a proper job. great channel - keep it coming
Thanks - will do
Make a T with the stick it's easier to pack in the dry mix , works well when under pinning.
What a cracking video. Good use of the stick, it should not be underestimated. I liked your comment about the automatic amputation machine. Truth is, it easily capable of doing you proper damage. So don't muck about and protect yourself.
Thank you
You made a really daunting job look easy. Makes me feel confident at trying something like this myself. Thank you
You can do it!
Great video, perfectly timed. I am just about to cut a hole for a new door and this pops up in my feed. I didn't even look for it. Thank you, this is going to be a great help. Good luck with the rest of the conversion.
Glad I could help!
Admirable attention to detail that many builders should learn from.
I took my up and over garage door out recently,I had already made the frame and door to put straight in. The door which I had already made and is pre hung is 3” thick but I made mine to be outward opening to keep the floor space. I do like your video’s which are easy to watch and informative.👍👍
What a fabulous job. This is like watching snooker........the experts make it look easy, then I have a go! The finish is so neat on this job, well done.
Thank you. It's all practice!
Wow, that looks amazing. So clean and tidy. Well done.
Again another expertly produced video. I really enjoy your instruction. Keep up the great work..!!
Thank you. I will with feedback like that!
Always get great inspiration from your videos. Can't wait for the next one!!
Thank you
Dude... many thanks from across the pond. I learned quite a bit. Thank you.
You sir are really good at what you do, and even better you are just as good at describing what you are doing, thank you.
I appreciate that!
Fantastic work, it's nice to see someone who cares about the job and helps others to do a good job. Really pleased I found this channel...
Thank you very much! Welcome aboard!
You do excellant work. Superb craftsmanship.
I seen a job like this once but they was cutting through a seven inch thick wall. They had the lintel in all right but they left the sides looking like Plugg from the Bash Street Kids teeth.
About to cut an opening for a window so this was immensley valuable ... thanks so much
Looks really smart in the end and much more useful than a huge brick wall! Good tip on fixing the batten for a straight cut, always pick up a tip I can use from your videos cheers.
Thank you. If you find just 1 thing interesting or new per video then I fell I've done my job!
I’m no bricky but that’s how it’s done I’m sure. Very professional 👏
Hello again Stewart, that wax another great job, I did like the way the door fitted in.
Glad you like it
Absolutely fantastic video, really enjoyed watching that. I've been wanting to do something like this for years, so great to see you in action! Great channel also, loving the content - please post some more of the workshop!
Thank you very much!
Particularly enjoyed the intro today as the head broke off my broom while I was sweeping the drive yesterday!
I'm glad someone else knows how it feels!
@@andymerrett Well spotted! An ever evolving intro! I assumed most people would be skipping over the intro by now.
You are my new hero. Huuuuge man crush. 🤪 Seriously though, this is just about the most perfect a project video can get. I will be doing this indoors soon. Since the wall isn't that high I will probably have to support the top few rows before removing the bricks underneath. I'm thinking of drilling a hole right through a few of those top bricks and fixing them to an upright piece of timber. The walls will be plastered after so no worries about the holes in those bricks.
Could also pack with slate before mortar as the is no compression in slate good job
Definitely found my new favorite channel 👍👍
Wow, thanks! Welcome aboard
Thank you. I really appreciate your craftsmanship and your videos, positive and pleasant.
I'm glad you are enjoying them
He did a very nice job there.
Lovely stuff. Some dog/hinge bolts will be a good addition.
Good idea
@@ProperDIY Cheap addition and anything to add to security always helps.
My tip is to fit frame and temporarily wedge and then use LOW VOLUME expanding foam to secure the door. You don’t need screws at all. So no filling of screw heads. And the door will close solidly.
I don’t want to start a debate. Because I’m right :) try it. It secures the door many times stronger than screws.
Nice video.
Thats not one I've heard but I can see how enough foam would secure the door.
Can also use a jointer to pack the mortar
That was a satisfying project to watch and the end result looks great! I've actually used an SDS drill bit in an ordinary chuck once, but it actually damaged the SDS shank of the bit ever so slightly. The damage was barely noticeable but it meant that although the bit would fit into my SDS drill, I couldn't get it back out again without disassembling the SDS chuck and removing the ball bearing which retains the bit.
Oh that's interesting. I won't try it again unless a real emergency!
I did this only this week to install a UVPC door in the side wall of my garage although I did not use a concrete lintel my garage was also single skin. I used a stihl saw the do the cut out like a knife through butter. great video thumbs up from me
Thank you
Very nice job Stewart. Lovely finish.
Thank you
Good sir, a thousand thanks. Your work is excellent in all respects. The construction part, the pacing, the shooting, the editing - and the personality. I've been stuck indoors during lockdown and viewing too many videos. Your presentation and professionalism are head, shoulders and armpits above that of the idiots in back-to-front hats who shout at me. I could go on... But that's the way to make a video. I hope others will emulate you. Thank you. Very much.
Well thank you very much. I try to make it entertaining and interesting so I'm glad you like it.
Spot on again Stuart, another excellent job 👍
Glad you enjoyed it
Very clearly explained. You would have benefited from a tuck pointer when doing the pointing around the lintel, basically the same as your stick method. They are cheap but very useful.
Great stuff! Brilliant video! You may have mentioned but if you did I missed it, can you tell me how long the whole project took? Thanks
REALLY well done and very instructive -- THANK YOU!
By the way, you saved me from at least one potentially catastrophic blunder. Lucky to see this, I am.
Very impressed especially the use of a guide batton, which I’ll be trying soon.
Good!
super video amigos...regards from panama
Another lovely job, so nice to watch your videos. Thank you.
I'm glad you like them
Just a perfect video. As usual of course
Thanks again!
Plung saw Arbortech AS175 would help a lot here....
Excellent series of DIY videos.
A little tip. Use slate to pack up in between the lintel and the bricks and under the lintel to the seating, and then you can point up the rest of the gaps with normal mortar mix to make it blend in. Also where the lintel is sitting on the brickwork should be a minimum of 150mm so as not to cause shear on the perps.
I'm not a pro but I thought as well I would have let the lintel go wider on both ends.
Looks great, you made a hard job look simple
Fantastic video and job on the new Lintel and Doorway, it looks brilliant.
Stay Safe,
Barry (Wirral)
Thank you
Thank you! No drip-moulding over the lintel to divert rain water away from the door? Or am I still living in the mediaeval era of church architecture...
Brilliant Mate! Exactly what I needed, and really well explained. Cheers.
Top DIY channel On TH-cam, well done the work shop is definitely coming along 👌
Thank you
So pleased I've found your channel 😊👍
Good
Very tidy work. Superb.
I want to add an additional grp electric meter box into the exterior wall cavity. only outside bricks needs removing.
Can I use a metal flat bar in the mortar course to be the lintel?
This has been such a helpful video full of info. Thank you.
Very nice job indeed. 2 questions ... 1. Why not install a steel door ? and 2. Why inward opening ?
Nice work .
I have a question .
It would be fine to make a bigger open on the side wall of the garage , to be able to open the car doors ?
The car fits inside the garage but the car doors don't have space to be open .
you're an inspiration!! you explain things really well. I drilled through a steel beam over the weekend using tips from your previous video
Glad I could help!
Hi could you put a layer of wet mortar on the lintel before lifting it into position...cheers
You could do but lifting it up and getting it level on my own was a big enough challenge I think
Absolutely awesome job mate! I've learnt a ton load watching this and will be putting what I've learnt to action.
Thanks again 😃
Glad you enjoyed it
Brilliant workmanship m8 !!!😊
Very nicely done. Great video, to the point, well edited.
Great video, and a fantastic guide/overview. Thank you for sharing your great content, look forward to more.
Thank you
Exactly what I needed to know, clearly explained. Great video
How much brick course is enough course to have above the opening?
What happens to the shims as you are setting the mortar? Pack behind and then take them out? I can see they are removed in the clip but it's not mentioned. Cheers !
About to do this on my new garage so this has helped a lot. I’ll be going for a bigger door but it’ll be done the same.
I won’t be able to resist pushing the wall of bricks out though! 😂
A smashing job well done and a great video which is easy to follow, kudo's friend.
Thank you kindly!
Looks like this is possibly notifable works under the Building Regulations.
Maybe. Might also need planning permission - everyone needs to check their own situation
Very useful information. How did you adhere your guide battons to the brick, please?
Best practice is to slate pack above the lintel in 3 or 4 places and on bearing points before pointing in as the mortar will shrink.
Nice doorway. It looks like you reused the bricks for the step up. I can't wait to see the finished workshop.
Thanks 👍 Yes exactly
Very good video. If you really didn't want to create loads of dust and messy water, could you stitch drill all the way down the walls or would that take a stupidly long time (I'm thinking an internal house wall where I really want to minimise mess)?
Nice job and i do believe if you had been a lot younger you would have pushed that wall over without a second thought, but with age comes common sense. I like your videos and the style in which they are presented. Keep up the good work my friend. I am a keen Diyer myself and always look to YT for inspiration. Thanks for posting.
Thank you and I think you're right!
The new step on the outside was made from brick reclaimed from the wall? That was unfortunately glossed over. Great result!
Yes, it certainly was.
Dry pack means it doesn’t soak into the facia of the brick’s, leaving a light grey smudge
You could pre-pack the lintel with mortar and shim/lift it up to it's final place. it would be much easier and much better packed.