Mark, this system is awesome and easy to follow. I am 80 years of age , got a Samick & bought a Black Hunter as well. With the standard GAP method I was ok with the Sage but couldn"t shoot accurately with the B.H. because of the much smaller sight window of the B.H. ( compared to the Sage) I followed your method and I am now like a dog with 2 d*cks . I can shoot 4 arrows, with both Bows and now they are touching each other Thank you so much Mark you have made shooting enjoyable with no frustration. More power to your elbow !!!!!!!!!!!! As a proud Canadian born in England , I salute you ! Alan Powell
I've been following your videos for awhile now, and commented before....but really, I feel like I have to say that you do not get enough credit my friend. Not only is your method the best that I have personally seen (and what I currently use myself), but you are a wonderful teacher. Please continue posting content. It has been so, SO, incredibly useful. Thanks for putting the time, and attention to detail into these techniques. All the best to you Mark.
Greetings Kyle ! Thank you for your kind words. Please know this is a YOUNG channel - March 2021 will be its 1ST "real" anniversary, so we're off a terrific start! ONE realization I've had is this: If I'm going to see MORE interest in this shooting method... ... then I'm going to have to start COMPETING in TOURNAMENTS :-O. SO far I've only had ONE tournament to start: It was late January's ITAA18m Indoor Target Archery State Tournament, and I took 3rd place in my division - Men's Master [under 60] Barebow. :-) Like every "newbie" to competition, I was nervous, and battling to control my first-ever Target Panic didn't make it any easier to compete! On top of that, some of the NATIONAL and even WORLD CHAMPION barebow archers live right here in northeastern Illinois, so even a "state" level tournament will make you feel humbled because YOUR "newbie" score is right there next to the much-higher NATIONAL CHAMPION scores :-O. Still, taking 3rd place being (soundly) beaten by NATIONAL CHAMPIONS is actually a pretty FUN place to start! TOMORROW (Feb 20th) I'm taking on an even greater challenge - it's the ITAA 25m Indoor Target Archer State Tournament, and I see I'm literally shooting side-by-side with the same guy who handed my ass to me in the 18m tournament - wish me luck ! What is REWARDING for me is this: I'm shooting a $250 bow with $6 hunting arrows and a $20 shooting glove. Period. NOTHING else. So when people see me COMPETING with NATIONAL CHAMPIONS using only that meager equipment, then once I (gradually) overcome my Target Panic, get back into good physical condition again (September saw me 2+ MONTHS on a couch after abdominal surgery), I'm confident my name will start moving up in the rankings... ... PLUS it's FUN ! And THAT is what will hopefully make more & more people pay attention to the VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD ;-) Wish me luck, and tell me how your OWN shooting is progressing ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Just picked up archery and this is one of the best pieces of wisdom I have come across, hands down, and has honestly made me only more excited to learn so thank you!
Hi Jessi & welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS ! GLAD you found this particular stringwalking technique useful ! KEEP IN MIND that you can use pretty much ANY TWO "magic numbers" that are useful to YOU: - you COULD have a 10m Initial Gap and a 5m Interval Gap; - you COULD have a 10m Initial Gap and a 10m Interval Gap; - you COULD have a 20m Initial Gap and a 5m Interval Gap; - you COULD have a 20m Initial Gap and a 10m Interval Gap (this works for me because I shoot over LONG ranges); I'VE found that a 20m Initial Gap and a 10m Interval Gap to be the MOST useful because: - the most common hunting shot in all of barebow hunting is between 17m and 20m; - the most common field archery shot is 20m; - most of the other common field distances are 30m, 40m, and 50m (sometimes 70m); - if you're shooting a 45# to 50# bow, then your 10m Interval Gap will be quite close to 1/2 finger; THIS MEANS - a 1/2 finger change in GAP results in a 10m change in DISTANCE; SO - a 1/4 finger change in GAP results in a 5m change in DISTANCE; - a 1/8 finger change in GAP results in a 2m change in DISTANCE; and - a 1/16 finger change in GAP results in a 1m change in DISTANCE; It's TRIVIAL to measure these fractions: - a 1/2 finger is just HALF a finger; - a 1/4 finger is just HALF of a HALF a finger; - a 1/8 finger is just HALF of a HALF of a HALF of a finger; - a 1/16 finger is just HALF of a HALF of a HALF of a HALF of a finger Also MOST of the time you'll NEVER actually MEASURE out a 1/16 finger; 1/8 of a finger is more than accurate enough! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Thanks for this instruction. Absolutely the best explanation for barebow aiming, I can finally shoot a traditional bow confidently, and put all the black magic BS of "instinctive" luck aiming or lack of out of my mind. You're the man! Thanks again. 😊
Greetings @slcrcflyer and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS ! THIS KIND OF FEEDBACK MAKES MY DAY !!! MANY THANKS ! Please SPREAD THE WORD ! Watch for upcoming videos that go BACK TO THE BASICS of SHOOTING ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Dave, I LOVE COMMENTS LIKE THIS - I LOVE helping people new (and even experienced) with Archery find still more reasons to fall in love with this sport by learning shooting techniques which make them MORE SUCCESSFUL !!! Thanks ! -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Hey mate great video,just got a 40 pound recurve ,new to archery, will try your method ,like your simple methods,regards david from wombat nsw Australia pop 120
DOWN UNDER !!!!! Greetings David & welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !!! I have MANY videos which TEACH this method - watch some of the more popular ones and you'll be on your way ! Looking forward to hearing from you soon, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Firstly thank you for you videos. I cannot tell you how the 5 steps and stringwalking has really helped this 76yo female. I was wondering if you can point me to the video where you show walking above the knock. Thank you again so much
Love this system. Straightforward and easy to remember. That low anchor results in a really long point on distance, and looks like it makes for a very versatile aiming system. You are able to effectively cover distances well beyond World Archery Barebow maximums. Very nice
GLAD you see merit in the shooting method. Please go TRY it and come back with your findings ! While I ENJOY the positive comments... I LOVE hearing back from people that are TRYING this method, even if it's adding it to their current efforts at "traditional" shooting to form a "hybrid" method that works for them ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
🐺 Hey from Texas brother Great video thanks for sharing. I do believe you are the only one that has a how to video on string Walking that is easy to understand even for a dumb old country hick like me . Just about every video I watch on string Walking I'm with them up to their introduction after that I'm lost as a goose and some of the big words they use I don't know if I need a dictionary or a lawyer lol . But you what I like to call dumb it down for us dumb folks. Any way I try it out and It works except the anchor point at the chin it doesn't feel right for me but using your string Walking technique with my anchor point it work the same . I reckon that's all that matters . Stay safe my brother and God bless. 🇺🇲🦅
Greetings to Switzerland Leo !! Glad you enjoyed this video. Please check out a few MORE videos from the playlists ! Then come back here & tell us what it's like doing ARCHERY in SWIITZERLAND: - is it POPULAR? - is it SIMPLE to buy the equipment, or are there lots of restrictions (like in UK)? - are there CLUBS? - where do YOU shoot? - do your neighbors think of your as a PSYCHOPATHIC KILLER? I'm curious curious curious ! -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Greetings Gary & welcome back to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS ! Your response was MUSIC TO MY EARS ! CONSIDER watching this PLAYLIST on The VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD: th-cam.com/play/PLj4BxB96vTdeQA-4ZmELV5a1IteQhPFfc.html Just browse through the titles (or start with the SHORT ones ;-) ) and find what interests you ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
GLAD you found value in this video! There are MULTIPLE reasons why GLOVES are superior to tabs: 1. byusing a GLOVE, you are learning to measure gaps with your FINGERS, which means - in a pinch - you can also shoot well WITHOUT a glove at all! 2. Shooting with a GLOVE preoarws you to HUNT more readily, even when the weather changes amd you have an INNER glover under your SHOOTING glove; tab shooters can vlaim all they want this is "equal", but in oractice it's NIT true - tabs feel WEIRD over a glove... What TABS have OVER gloves is ONE THING: they're far easier to CUSTOMIZE in terms of adding/changing/removing LAYWRS untilmyou get just the "feel" that wirks well fir you. I've been working on this "customize-ability" for GLOVES - and Im making progress - stay tuned!
Great video. Day 2 on the range with my recurve R3 bow. Put 3 arrows in the bullseye at 10 yards and 3 arrow in a bullseye at 20 yards. It really worked for me. Thank you. P.S. I had to calibrate my sight(had to adjust my whiskers biscuit for windage and elevation at the beginning)
Welcome Mick ! GLAD you're finding the channel useful ! PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SUBSCRIBE, and check out the playlist FOR "NEWBIES" TELL us about yourself ! - WHERE in Australia ARE you ? (this is SO cool!) - WHAT KIND of BOW have you got ?? Looking forward to hearing from you, -Mark
Great video! Your great teacher as well! I'm brand new to bare bow, so I've been trying to decide which method to start learning first. I have say I LOVE string walking. Your video on it is fantastic - the best I've seen for practicality and simplicity! Unfortunately, I'm not yet drawing that many pounds (just thirty), so I can shoot a lot of arrows on a daily basis and not blowout shoulders, etc. So my 20yd gap will likely be very small. What would you recommend in this situation?
Greetings Sterling ! GLAD you enjoy the videos on my VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD and VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD ! I recently did a video where I used these methods to shoot my daughter's 22# (# means "pounds" in archery-speak) recurve bow, and I shoot it with DEADLY accuracy all the way out to 50 yards :-O In fact if there had been a 60 yard target at that range, I would have it THAT as well :-O INTERESTED? WATCH THIS VIDEO : th-cam.com/video/S895VNou-Hk/w-d-xo.html START WITH THESE 2 "MAGIC NUMBERS OF STRING WALKING" for YOUR 30# BOW: - 20m Initial Gap: 2 fingers; and - 10m Interval Gap: 1 finger USING THESE 2 MEASURES, YOU SHOULD HAVE THE FOLLOWING GAPS FOR STRINGWALKING: 10m: 3 fingers (that's 2 fingers + 1 finger for 10 LESS meters) 20m: 2 fingers 30m: 1 finger (that's 2 fingers -1 finger for 10 MORE meters) 40m: 0 finger (your finger touches the bottom of the arrow) (that's 2 fingers - 2 fingers for 20 more meters) 50m: 1 finger OVER the arrow (that's also called a Mediterranean Grip) 60m: 2 fingers OVER the arrow You may have to adjust your 20m Initial Gap by +/- 1/4 finger or so - this is what I call CALIBRATING The VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD and VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD to YOUR bow, YOUR draw length and YOUR arrows. Come back and report how it went ! -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@VOGTLANDOUTDOORS Hey, Mark. So, after shooting for a couple of days, experimenting, etc, I can safely say your approach is rock solid! My biggest adjustment was that my 20 yard gap is about 1.5 fingers instead of 2. I couldn't quite figure out why, but then I realized that the difference was likely because I anchor the index finger at corner of mouth. It works well for me because the corner of my mouth lines up exactly under my eye. But I sacrifice pitch/distance a bit. Still..., the method was utterly rock solid. Ultimately, I'm going to work on anchoring under my chin, I just have to get used to it. Anyway, I've only had my bare bow for a few days and, using your approach (and me expanding properly to correct leftward shots), I was shooting it better than guys I've seen shooting bare bow for months. So thank you very much for your straight forward, effective teaching. Also, an added bonus of your method is how low light friendly it is. Which is great for hunting situations; it's so much easier to see and access than markings on a tab. EDIT: Also Mark, I meant to add that another thing I realized is that even though I'm not anchoring under my chin for most 40 - 50yds and in shots, If I want to get that extra yardage, all I have to do is change my anchor. Of course that requires learning my below the chin gaps, but hey, that's fun!
The magic number for 10m target is 16mm of elevation of a 450mm (30") arrow. 16mm is also the width of an average human finger. An average human eye is 24mm dia or 12mm radius, which leaves an error of 4mm which is almost the diameter of a skinny arrow shaft or nock. From your iris to the rim of you eye socket, this is your first 16mm. This is where the arrow should sit for a 10m distance . Add one finger for each 10m for an arrow speed of 170ft/s (52m/s). You are correct for the increments but jaw bones vary much more than other facial features. This would mean significant variation of walking for different people. For 10m target separation distance increments, 16mm from the iris and increments there of, is measurable and possible for any individual using there finger as a gauge. Arrow velocity is much less variable than most people expect, due mainly to brace to draw height regularity.
One thing that helps me a ton is that I tie nocks on my 10, 15, and 20 yard marks on my string. So I don't have to do any math or measuring since it's already on the string.
Greetings Mihajlo ! Hahaha - all American barebow archers WISH we could add something on our STRINGS, but in the USA this is ILLEGAL for competition :-O BESIDES, the VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD is surprisingly EASY to LEARN and SIMPLE to USE once you figure out your 2 numbers: 1. your 20m "Initial" Gap (measured in "fingers"); and 2. your 10m "Interval" Gap (also measured in fractions-of-a-finger) THIS IS SO SIMPLE TO USE that you could give me even a COMPLICATED distance like "53m", and I would be able to SET that gap in less than 3 seconds on my bowstring :-O !! - START with my INITIAL (20m) gap of 3 fingers; then - SHIFT UP 1/2 finger for a 30m gap - SHIFT UP 1/2 finger for a 40m gap - SHIFT UP 1/2 finger for a 50m gap - SHIFT UP a little less than 1/4 finger (5m) to get a 53m gap. FROM the moment I set my 3-finger (initial) gap then SHIFT, SHIFT, SHIFT, SHIFT I'm done. In fact it's less than 2 SECONDS to set it ! This whole VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD is WAAAAAAAY EASIER TO USE than you guys all THINK, AND you literally CARRY IT with you, because it's just 2 numbers in your HEAD, and your HAND. THAT MEANS I can literally pick up ANYONE'S BOW ANYWHERE on the PLANET, and that bow DOESN'T have to have a bowstring with "markers" on it, and I will be able to shoot it with SURPRISING ACCURACY at ANY distance from 5m to 80m :-O !!! I wish you guys would all STOP trying to tell me how YOUR method is AS GOOD or BETTER, and simply GIVE the VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD a try !!! Please know that for every commenter who CRITICIZES my method I easily receive 20 to 30 OTHER comments PRAISING the method - please give it a try ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@VOGTLANDOUTDOORS Yeah my method definitely wouldn't be allowed in a barebow competition. But I use archery primarily for hunting. I'm not looking to hit ten rings or stack arrows at 50 meters. Making nock points with fluorescent green serving material allows me to draw on an animal without staring on my string and thinking about 1 finger 2 finger, or half a finger. I Just find the nock I need and put my fingers there.
Hi Again Mihaj;lo ! You & I are trying to solve the SAME problem: HOW to "set my gap" WITHOUT looking at the bowstring, so I'm ALWAYS WATCHING m DEER !... You may be surprised to know that I DON'T actually have to LOOK at my fingers at ALL when I use the VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD :-O . Instead, your FINGERS are SO easy to count by "feel" that you'll be AMAZED ! Even in the DARK of twilight (dawn or dusk), I can see a deer coming in at 60 yds, then without looking at my string I lay 3 fingers on the bowstring, then use my thumb to "feel" down 1 finger, slide my 3 fingers down that 1-finger-gap, then I KNOW - WITHOUT LOOKING - that I have a 60yd gap :-O... AS I watch the deer come into 50 yds, I take my thumbnail and press it so it "feels" in the MIDDLE of my index finger, then I slide down that HALF finger, and now my gap is set for a 50 yd shot - AND I'VE NEVER TAKEN MY EYES OFF THE DEER ! AS the deer comes into 40 yds I repeat this half-finger slide... Then the deer comes into 30 yrds and slide another half-finger down.... FINALLY the deer reaches 20 yds, and I slide another half finger - that's 4 half fingers (2 FULL fingers) down from 1 finger, so I KNOW I should feel 3 fingers under the arrow as a check - and I DO . ALL SET for 20yd shots. You see it's SIMPLE, and again - THIS METHOD is IN MY HEAD, so I can go shooting with ANY bow that someone hands me :-O ... THANK YOU for giving me my idea for THIS WEEK'S VIDEO ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@Bowfellaare you anchoring under your chin or corner of your mouth? I’m wanting to set my bow up similar to what you said. I only deer and turkey hunt
@@djkilpatrick5256 I used to anchor with my thumb knuckle under my jaw. Now I anchor with my index knuckle under my cheekbone. You can string walk from any anchor point. Only thing you have to keep in mind is you might need a negative tiller if you have a bow under 64". Which can be accomplished on ILF bows or 3 piece takedowns where you add shims to the bottom limb. Otherwise you'll have a nock low flight which is inefficient for hunting.
Greetings Art Traveler and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS ! ANSWER: Yes - on MOST of my bows I invariably use either the EXISTING shelf or I BUILD ONE from CRAFT FOAM, because the reality is all the other little itty-bitty arrow rests made of WIRE or PLASTIC can & WILL BREAK when HUNTING FOR REAL in the woods :-O The ONLY thing an AVID BOW HUNTER can do is ELIMINATE this chance of error by installing a SHELF. The ONLY thing a SHELF needs is a RUG, and it DOESN'T need to be made from "bear fur" or other nonsense. I'VE been using the "curly" or "loop" side of some VELCRO TAPE, and it WORKS GREAT !!! I think you've just INSPIRED me for my NEXT video ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Greetings A Pheasant ! Tabs are GREAT - I too have one, and find myself regularly shooting with it - but I STILL use my FINGERS and FRACTIONS of FINGERS as my measuring stick, so I can SWITCH between DIFFERENT shooting tabs: ON a 40# to 55# bow: - your 20m Initial Gap will be approximately 3 fingers; and - your 10m Interval Gap will be approximately 1/2 finger THAT SAID, Then: - IF 1/2 finger gap change will give you a +/- 10m change in range; THEN - 1/4 finger gap change will give you a +/- 5m change in range; AND - 1/8 finger gap change will give you a +/- 2.5m change in range; AND - 1/16 finger gap change will give you a +/- 1m change in range :-O This is surprisingly EASY and SIMPLE to MEASURE: 1. LOOK at your fingers pulling against your bowstring; 2. SET your thumbnail right smack in the MIDDLE of your index finger - THAT'S 1/2 finger; 3. SPLIT the distance from your thumbnail to the top of your index finger - THAT's 1/4 finger; 4. SPLIT that distance - THAT's 1/8 finger; and 5. SPLIT that distance - THAT's 1/16 finger SIMPLE NO NEED to worry about "Counting-Stitches" - WHAT would you do if you bought a NEW tab and it either had NO STITCHING or the stitches were a DIFFERENT SIZE :-O ?????? WATCH for the upcoming video on just how SIMPLE finger-measuring can be ! Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Hi Dave ! SHORT ANSWER: Each spring I start off with 40# limbs/bows, but by June I'm back to shooting 50# and even 58# bows What you'll find is that most competitive archers (Olympic Recurve, Barebow) ultimately settle on about 45# to 48# bows, and that's for several reasons: 1. light-draw weight bows in fact are far far LESS "forgiving" of any flaws in an archer's RELEASE technique; but once you hit about 40#, there's enough tension in the bowstring that it literally "pulls itself" out of the archer's fingers, resulting in a smoother release with noticeably less right-to-left error being introduced; and 2. any bow with a draw weight HIGHER than 48# will indeed still reduce the left-to-right errors, but in truth they're HARD TO COMPETE with, because after shooting (say) 60 arrows (a typical round) pulling 58# you're PRETTY DARN TIRED ;-) IF you're commenting because you see me SHAKING in the video, there are still OTHER reasons: 1. It's damned-HARD to hold 50# or more at full draw while TALKING for 15 seconds; and 2. I've already shot quite a few arrows, so I'm already muscle-fatigued; and 3. I'm old. ;-) Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Wow.. insanely amazing tutorial! Thank you for such an amazing method of shooting. The only thing here that would have been better, would have been to show the arrows and where they hit on each target, as you are shooting them. Part of me is skeptical on how well they hit. I'm sure you're a truthful guy, but just going off of the numerous phony or "staged" videos on youtube.
Thz for the informative vid 👍🏻 How come you talk in the metric system? You are american right? Im not complaining though ,cause all i think in is the metric 😁
Greetings & WELCOME to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS Helldober ! Hahahaha - you're a man after my own heart. I'm an AEROSPACE ENGINEER and AI DATA SCIENTIST by education: - BS in Aerospace Engineering & Mechanics, U of MN - MS (abt) in Robotics & Control Systems, U of MN - MS Computer Science (AI & Applied Mathematics), IIT So the METRIC SYSTEM MAKES SENSE to me. I can even CONVERT meters to yards & yards to meters IN MY HEAD - EASILY WANT TO LEARN MY TRICK? YARDS to METERS: SUBTRACT 1/10 of the YARDS from the YARDS and you'll have METERS! EXAMPLE: 40 yds - (40/10 = 4) = 36 meters (an error of only 1 FOOT over 40 YARDS, or less than 1%) METERS to YARDS: ADD 1/10 of the METERS onto the METERS and you'll get YARDS ! EXAMPLE: 30 m + (30/10 = 3) = 33 yards (an error of LESS than a foot over 30m, or less than 1%) How's THAT for cool ! I do this ALL THE TIME when I'm COMPETING in 3D shoots :-) Cheers, - Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
hello from France, your video is very interesting did you change the setting of your tiller? ( I shoot bare-bow with the tiller at zero ) Have you changed the height of your notch? I'm the 429 (lol)
Encroyable ! Zoot alore ! Je parler le Francais comme le vache espaniol, mais j'ai travaillais au Cameroon (on parle le Francais la bas)... Mois? Il y a plus que 30 ans depuis je parle le Francais, but on va essayer ;-) ... En Englais... GLAD you found the video intriguing :-) ... ANSWERS: 1. I have not changed anything about the bows I shoot - not the tiller (though sometimes I'm curious to try), not the height of my nock (I THINK you mean "nock", not "notch"). 2. My goal is to demonstrate an innovate shooting method which demand NOTHING from the bow being shot. Instead you can simply pick up ANY bow, and - using the 5-step method - shoot with both confidence and accuracy :-) 3. MAYBE the ONLY change I perceive ever making is adjusting the location of the nocking point slight (say4mm) higher than would be typical, but I really can't say. I have at least 10 bows, and I've only done this on 1 of them; the other 9 bows have a nocking point located approximately 1 arrow-width (5 mm?) above being perfectly perpendicular. I hope my answers help you. I'll be making a NEW video on VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING this weekend - please watch for it ! Now it's YOUR turn to tell me about YOU - you're the FIRST FRENCH BAREBOW archer who has posted in the past year; most of them are from the USA (only 53% or less), but the remaining 47% are actually from ALL OVER the PLANET: UK, Sweden, Poland, France, Spain, Greece, Malta, Romania, LOTS in Iraq & Iran (cool), Inda, and a SURPRISING amount in INDONESIA and AUSTRALIA. Oh and Brazil, Peru and Argentina, and a handful from north Africa, Egypt, South Africa, Zimbabwe and other east African nations. What does a FRENCH BAREBOW ARCHER actually SHOOT? a STICK bow? a LONG bow or RECURVE bow? What is your Draw Weight? How tall are you (in cm) ? ARE you permitted to HUNT in FRANCE using a bow (I'm told my all my GERMAN subscribers that they CAN'T) :-| I'm SO curious ! a toute a l'heure, -Mark
Hi Chris ! I mean either YARDS or METERS, but I absolutely DON'T mean FEET :-). There's only a 10% difference between YARDS and METERS, and at hunting distances from 10m/10yds out to 40m/40yds there's hardly any difference in the "gap" you measure between the Nocking Point of the arrow and the Drawing Point of your Index Finger. Hmmm... you sound like you might be SKEPTICAL that I shoot at 70m, 80m and even 90m (100yds) BAREBOW, with any level of accuracy, so you assume I meant only 100 ft (30m) ? Think again - we CAN and DO shoot regularly at 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m and quite regularly at 90m, in fact it's our favorite distance ! That said, I'm only saying I can HIT a 5ft target at 90m about 3 out of 6, maybe a best of 5 out of 6 times. But that's pretty damn amazing BAREBOW, and not spending 3-4 hours a day practicing ;-) Watch my videos. Cheers, -Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@VOGTLANDOUTDOORS Hi Mark and thanks for your reply. I'm not sceptical at all, seeing is believing and I'm impressed I've noticed that you measure your gaps on fingers. Would you recommend a barebow tab (with markings) for a newbie or your method of using fingers (and a glove). Thanks Edit: I'm fairly new to archery and having tried all styles barebow is my main focus.
Mark, this system is awesome and easy to follow. I am 80 years of age , got a Samick & bought a Black Hunter as well. With the standard GAP method I was ok with the Sage but couldn"t shoot accurately with the B.H. because of the much smaller sight window of the B.H. ( compared to the Sage) I followed your method and I am now like a dog with 2 d*cks . I can shoot 4 arrows, with both Bows and now they are touching each other Thank you so much Mark you have made shooting enjoyable with no frustration. More power to your elbow !!!!!!!!!!!! As a proud Canadian born in England , I salute you ! Alan Powell
I've been following your videos for awhile now, and commented before....but really, I feel like I have to say that you do not get enough credit my friend.
Not only is your method the best that I have personally seen (and what I currently use myself), but you are a wonderful teacher. Please continue posting content. It has been so, SO, incredibly useful.
Thanks for putting the time, and attention to detail into these techniques.
All the best to you Mark.
Greetings Kyle !
Thank you for your kind words.
Please know this is a YOUNG channel - March 2021 will be its 1ST "real" anniversary, so we're off a terrific start!
ONE realization I've had is this: If I'm going to see MORE interest in this shooting method...
... then I'm going to have to start COMPETING in TOURNAMENTS :-O.
SO far I've only had ONE tournament to start: It was late January's ITAA18m Indoor Target Archery State Tournament, and I took 3rd place in my division - Men's Master [under 60] Barebow. :-)
Like every "newbie" to competition, I was nervous, and battling to control my first-ever Target Panic didn't make it any easier to compete! On top of that, some of the NATIONAL and even WORLD CHAMPION barebow archers live right here in northeastern Illinois, so even a "state" level tournament will make you feel humbled because YOUR "newbie" score is right there next to the much-higher NATIONAL CHAMPION scores :-O.
Still, taking 3rd place being (soundly) beaten by NATIONAL CHAMPIONS is actually a pretty FUN place to start!
TOMORROW (Feb 20th) I'm taking on an even greater challenge - it's the ITAA 25m Indoor Target Archer State Tournament, and I see I'm literally shooting side-by-side with the same guy who handed my ass to me in the 18m tournament - wish me luck !
What is REWARDING for me is this: I'm shooting a $250 bow with $6 hunting arrows and a $20 shooting glove.
Period.
NOTHING else.
So when people see me COMPETING with NATIONAL CHAMPIONS using only that meager equipment, then once I (gradually) overcome my Target Panic, get back into good physical condition again (September saw me 2+ MONTHS on a couch after abdominal surgery), I'm confident my name will start moving up in the rankings...
... PLUS it's FUN !
And THAT is what will hopefully make more & more people pay attention to the VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD ;-)
Wish me luck, and tell me how your OWN shooting is progressing !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Thank you from Portugal!🇵🇹
Just picked up archery and this is one of the best pieces of wisdom I have come across, hands down, and has honestly made me only more excited to learn so thank you!
Gobble,
This kind of feedback is what keeps me working on this channel !
Thank you for making my week :)
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Great lesson from 🇦🇺
Glad you enjoyed it
Thank you so much form the Nederlands
Thanks for making this easy I have had so much trouble with this in the past ! Now its amazing change to be able to hit my target !!!!
Hi Jessi & welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !
GLAD you found this particular stringwalking technique useful !
KEEP IN MIND that you can use pretty much ANY TWO "magic numbers" that are useful to YOU:
- you COULD have a 10m Initial Gap and a 5m Interval Gap;
- you COULD have a 10m Initial Gap and a 10m Interval Gap;
- you COULD have a 20m Initial Gap and a 5m Interval Gap;
- you COULD have a 20m Initial Gap and a 10m Interval Gap (this works for me because I shoot over LONG ranges);
I'VE found that a 20m Initial Gap and a 10m Interval Gap to be the MOST useful because:
- the most common hunting shot in all of barebow hunting is between 17m and 20m;
- the most common field archery shot is 20m;
- most of the other common field distances are 30m, 40m, and 50m (sometimes 70m);
- if you're shooting a 45# to 50# bow, then your 10m Interval Gap will be quite close to 1/2 finger;
THIS MEANS
- a 1/2 finger change in GAP results in a 10m change in DISTANCE; SO
- a 1/4 finger change in GAP results in a 5m change in DISTANCE;
- a 1/8 finger change in GAP results in a 2m change in DISTANCE; and
- a 1/16 finger change in GAP results in a 1m change in DISTANCE;
It's TRIVIAL to measure these fractions:
- a 1/2 finger is just HALF a finger;
- a 1/4 finger is just HALF of a HALF a finger;
- a 1/8 finger is just HALF of a HALF of a HALF of a finger;
- a 1/16 finger is just HALF of a HALF of a HALF of a HALF of a finger
Also MOST of the time you'll NEVER actually MEASURE out a 1/16 finger; 1/8 of a finger is more than accurate enough!
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Thanks for this instruction. Absolutely the best explanation for barebow aiming, I can finally shoot a traditional bow confidently, and put all the black magic BS of "instinctive" luck aiming or lack of out of my mind. You're the man! Thanks again. 😊
Greetings @slcrcflyer and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !
THIS KIND OF FEEDBACK MAKES MY DAY !!!
MANY THANKS !
Please SPREAD THE WORD !
Watch for upcoming videos that go BACK TO THE BASICS of SHOOTING !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Getting my barebow soon. Can't wait to learn string walking :D
I have not even heard of this string walking 👍 awesome man!
Dave,
I LOVE COMMENTS LIKE THIS - I LOVE helping people new (and even experienced) with Archery find still more reasons to fall in love with this sport by learning shooting techniques which make them MORE SUCCESSFUL !!!
Thanks !
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Hey mate great video,just got a 40 pound recurve ,new to archery, will try your method ,like your simple methods,regards david from wombat nsw Australia pop 120
DOWN UNDER !!!!!
Greetings David & welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !!!
I have MANY videos which TEACH this method - watch some of the more popular ones and you'll be on your way !
Looking forward to hearing from you soon,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Very impressive, will try this out many thanks
Now, greetings from Germany as well!
Super interesting, i' ll check this out!
Firstly thank you for you videos. I cannot tell you how the 5 steps and stringwalking has really helped this 76yo female. I was wondering if you can point me to the video where you show walking above the knock. Thank you again so much
Love this system. Straightforward and easy to remember.
That low anchor results in a really long point on distance, and looks like it makes for a very versatile aiming system. You are able to effectively cover distances well beyond World Archery Barebow maximums. Very nice
GLAD you see merit in the shooting method.
Please go TRY it and come back with your findings !
While I ENJOY the positive comments... I LOVE hearing back from people that are TRYING this method, even if it's adding it to their current efforts at "traditional" shooting to form a "hybrid" method that works for them !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
🐺 Hey from Texas brother Great video thanks for sharing. I do believe you are the only one that has a how to video on string Walking that is easy to understand even for a dumb old country hick like me . Just about every video I watch on string Walking I'm with them up to their introduction after that I'm lost as a goose and some of the big words they use I don't know if I need a dictionary or a lawyer lol . But you what I like to call dumb it down for us dumb folks. Any way I try it out and It works except the anchor point at the chin it doesn't feel right for me but using your string Walking technique with my anchor point it work the same . I reckon that's all that matters . Stay safe my brother and God bless. 🇺🇲🦅
Use full knowledge thanks
Nice ! Greets from Switzerland
Greetings to Switzerland Leo !!
Glad you enjoyed this video.
Please check out a few MORE videos from the playlists !
Then come back here & tell us what it's like doing ARCHERY in SWIITZERLAND:
- is it POPULAR?
- is it SIMPLE to buy the equipment, or are there lots of restrictions (like in UK)?
- are there CLUBS?
- where do YOU shoot?
- do your neighbors think of your as a PSYCHOPATHIC KILLER?
I'm curious curious curious !
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Awesome man cheers I'll be trying this one out bud ta
awesome hint, thanks buddy!
You bet!
thanks from trinidad
Love it,thanks for your help
Happy to help!
Hi and thanks from France 🤘
First video I've seen of yours awesome explanation, 👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
Another great video, I'm really enjoying getting more accurate with this method. Thanks. ( I'm in the UK )
Greetings Gary & welcome back to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !
Your response was MUSIC TO MY EARS !
CONSIDER watching this PLAYLIST on The VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD:
th-cam.com/play/PLj4BxB96vTdeQA-4ZmELV5a1IteQhPFfc.html
Just browse through the titles (or start with the SHORT ones ;-) ) and find what interests you !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Thanks. Hope this works for both Turkish and Korean bows
Great job, I never liked a tab with markers on them as I prefer a shooting glove
GLAD you found value in this video!
There are MULTIPLE reasons why GLOVES are superior to tabs:
1. byusing a GLOVE, you are learning to measure gaps with your FINGERS, which means - in a pinch - you can also shoot well WITHOUT a glove at all!
2. Shooting with a GLOVE preoarws you to HUNT more readily, even when the weather changes amd you have an INNER glover under your SHOOTING glove; tab shooters can vlaim all they want this is "equal", but in oractice it's NIT true - tabs feel WEIRD over a glove...
What TABS have OVER gloves is ONE THING: they're far easier to CUSTOMIZE in terms of adding/changing/removing LAYWRS untilmyou get just the "feel" that wirks well fir you.
I've been working on this "customize-ability" for GLOVES - and Im making progress - stay tuned!
Hi and thanks from Romania👍
Great video. Day 2 on the range with my recurve R3 bow. Put 3 arrows in the bullseye at 10 yards and 3 arrow in a bullseye at 20 yards. It really worked for me. Thank you.
P.S. I had to calibrate my sight(had to adjust my whiskers biscuit for windage and elevation at the beginning)
MUSIC TO MY EARS EDWARD !!!
-Mark | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
im a newbie and found your video very helpful , cheers from australia
Welcome Mick !
GLAD you're finding the channel useful !
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE SUBSCRIBE, and check out the playlist FOR "NEWBIES"
TELL us about yourself !
- WHERE in Australia ARE you ? (this is SO cool!)
- WHAT KIND of BOW have you got ??
Looking forward to hearing from you,
-Mark
hi mark im 58 i live in port lincoln in south australia i just bought a buck trail black hawke longbow its 68 inches amo and 25lbs
cheers from oz
Add Brazil Rio de Janeiro to the mix..but i live in Cape Coral Fl.
Sure as hell i will be trying this method over the weekend
Thank you so much from Viet Nam!
Great video! Your great teacher as well! I'm brand new to bare bow, so I've been trying to decide which method to start learning first. I have say I LOVE string walking. Your video on it is fantastic - the best I've seen for practicality and simplicity! Unfortunately, I'm not yet drawing that many pounds (just thirty), so I can shoot a lot of arrows on a daily basis and not blowout shoulders, etc. So my 20yd gap will likely be very small. What would you recommend in this situation?
Greetings Sterling !
GLAD you enjoy the videos on my VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD and VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD !
I recently did a video where I used these methods to shoot my daughter's 22# (# means "pounds" in archery-speak) recurve bow, and I shoot it with DEADLY accuracy all the way out to 50 yards :-O
In fact if there had been a 60 yard target at that range, I would have it THAT as well :-O
INTERESTED?
WATCH THIS VIDEO :
th-cam.com/video/S895VNou-Hk/w-d-xo.html
START WITH THESE 2 "MAGIC NUMBERS OF STRING WALKING" for YOUR 30# BOW:
- 20m Initial Gap: 2 fingers; and
- 10m Interval Gap: 1 finger
USING THESE 2 MEASURES, YOU SHOULD HAVE THE FOLLOWING GAPS FOR STRINGWALKING:
10m: 3 fingers (that's 2 fingers + 1 finger for 10 LESS meters)
20m: 2 fingers
30m: 1 finger (that's 2 fingers -1 finger for 10 MORE meters)
40m: 0 finger (your finger touches the bottom of the arrow) (that's 2 fingers - 2 fingers for 20 more meters)
50m: 1 finger OVER the arrow (that's also called a Mediterranean Grip)
60m: 2 fingers OVER the arrow
You may have to adjust your 20m Initial Gap by +/- 1/4 finger or so - this is what I call CALIBRATING The VOGTLAND SHOOTING METHOD and VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD to YOUR bow, YOUR draw length and YOUR arrows.
Come back and report how it went !
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@VOGTLANDOUTDOORS Wow! thanks for the walk through! I'll reach back out after giving it a go!
@@VOGTLANDOUTDOORS Hey, Mark. So, after shooting for a couple of days, experimenting, etc, I can safely say your approach is rock solid! My biggest adjustment was that my 20 yard gap is about 1.5 fingers instead of 2. I couldn't quite figure out why, but then I realized that the difference was likely because I anchor the index finger at corner of mouth. It works well for me because the corner of my mouth lines up exactly under my eye. But I sacrifice pitch/distance a bit. Still..., the method was utterly rock solid. Ultimately, I'm going to work on anchoring under my chin, I just have to get used to it. Anyway, I've only had my bare bow for a few days and, using your approach (and me expanding properly to correct leftward shots), I was shooting it better than guys I've seen shooting bare bow for months. So thank you very much for your straight forward, effective teaching. Also, an added bonus of your method is how low light friendly it is. Which is great for hunting situations; it's so much easier to see and access than markings on a tab.
EDIT: Also Mark, I meant to add that another thing I realized is that even though I'm not anchoring under my chin for most 40 - 50yds and in shots, If I want to get that extra yardage, all I have to do is change my anchor. Of course that requires learning my below the chin gaps, but hey, that's fun!
Legend thanks
The magic number for 10m target is 16mm of elevation of a 450mm (30") arrow. 16mm is also the width of an average human finger. An average human eye is 24mm dia or 12mm radius, which leaves an error of 4mm which is almost the diameter of a skinny arrow shaft or nock.
From your iris to the rim of you eye socket, this is your first 16mm. This is where the arrow should sit for a 10m distance . Add one finger for each 10m for an arrow speed of 170ft/s (52m/s).
You are correct for the increments but jaw bones vary much more than other facial features. This would mean significant variation of walking for different people. For 10m target separation distance increments, 16mm from the iris and increments there of, is measurable and possible for any individual using there finger as a gauge.
Arrow velocity is much less variable than most people expect, due mainly to brace to draw height regularity.
One thing that helps me a ton is that I tie nocks on my 10, 15, and 20 yard marks on my string. So I don't have to do any math or measuring since it's already on the string.
Greetings Mihajlo !
Hahaha - all American barebow archers WISH we could add something on our STRINGS, but in the USA this is ILLEGAL for competition :-O
BESIDES, the VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD is surprisingly EASY to LEARN and SIMPLE to USE once you figure out your 2 numbers:
1. your 20m "Initial" Gap (measured in "fingers"); and
2. your 10m "Interval" Gap (also measured in fractions-of-a-finger)
THIS IS SO SIMPLE TO USE that you could give me even a COMPLICATED distance like "53m", and I would be able to SET that gap in less than 3 seconds on my bowstring :-O !!
- START with my INITIAL (20m) gap of 3 fingers; then
- SHIFT UP 1/2 finger for a 30m gap
- SHIFT UP 1/2 finger for a 40m gap
- SHIFT UP 1/2 finger for a 50m gap
- SHIFT UP a little less than 1/4 finger (5m) to get a 53m gap.
FROM the moment I set my 3-finger (initial) gap then SHIFT, SHIFT, SHIFT, SHIFT I'm done. In fact it's less than 2 SECONDS to set it !
This whole VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD is WAAAAAAAY EASIER TO USE than you guys all THINK, AND you literally CARRY IT with you, because it's just 2 numbers in your HEAD, and your HAND.
THAT MEANS I can literally pick up ANYONE'S BOW ANYWHERE on the PLANET, and that bow DOESN'T have to have a bowstring with "markers" on it, and I will be able to shoot it with SURPRISING ACCURACY at ANY distance from 5m to 80m :-O !!!
I wish you guys would all STOP trying to tell me how YOUR method is AS GOOD or BETTER, and simply GIVE the VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD a try !!!
Please know that for every commenter who CRITICIZES my method I easily receive 20 to 30 OTHER comments PRAISING the method - please give it a try !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@VOGTLANDOUTDOORS Yeah my method definitely wouldn't be allowed in a barebow competition. But I use archery primarily for hunting. I'm not looking to hit ten rings or stack arrows at 50 meters. Making nock points with fluorescent green serving material allows me to draw on an animal without staring on my string and thinking about 1 finger 2 finger, or half a finger. I Just find the nock I need and put my fingers there.
Hi Again Mihaj;lo !
You & I are trying to solve the SAME problem: HOW to "set my gap" WITHOUT looking at the bowstring, so I'm ALWAYS WATCHING m DEER !...
You may be surprised to know that I DON'T actually have to LOOK at my fingers at ALL when I use the VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING METHOD :-O .
Instead, your FINGERS are SO easy to count by "feel" that you'll be AMAZED !
Even in the DARK of twilight (dawn or dusk), I can see a deer coming in at 60 yds, then without looking at my string I lay 3 fingers on the bowstring, then use my thumb to "feel" down 1 finger, slide my 3 fingers down that 1-finger-gap, then I KNOW - WITHOUT LOOKING - that I have a 60yd gap :-O...
AS I watch the deer come into 50 yds, I take my thumbnail and press it so it "feels" in the MIDDLE of my index finger, then I slide down that HALF finger, and now my gap is set for a 50 yd shot - AND I'VE NEVER TAKEN MY EYES OFF THE DEER !
AS the deer comes into 40 yds I repeat this half-finger slide...
Then the deer comes into 30 yrds and slide another half-finger down....
FINALLY the deer reaches 20 yds, and I slide another half finger - that's 4 half fingers (2 FULL fingers) down from 1 finger, so I KNOW I should feel 3 fingers under the arrow as a check - and I DO . ALL SET for 20yd shots.
You see it's SIMPLE, and again - THIS METHOD is IN MY HEAD, so I can go shooting with ANY bow that someone hands me :-O ...
THANK YOU for giving me my idea for THIS WEEK'S VIDEO !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@Bowfellaare you anchoring under your chin or corner of your mouth? I’m wanting to set my bow up similar to what you said. I only deer and turkey hunt
@@djkilpatrick5256 I used to anchor with my thumb knuckle under my jaw. Now I anchor with my index knuckle under my cheekbone. You can string walk from any anchor point. Only thing you have to keep in mind is you might need a negative tiller if you have a bow under 64". Which can be accomplished on ILF bows or 3 piece takedowns where you add shims to the bottom limb. Otherwise you'll have a nock low flight which is inefficient for hunting.
Just wondering. Woukd you need at least a split finger tab to achieve the longer distances ?
Im not sure it would work with just a 3 finger tab.
By the way..what is the approach from a tower for 3 d or tree stand?
is this working off the self on a traditional bow?
Greetings Art Traveler and welcome to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS !
ANSWER:
Yes - on MOST of my bows I invariably use either the EXISTING shelf or I BUILD ONE from CRAFT FOAM, because the reality is all the other little itty-bitty arrow rests made of WIRE or PLASTIC can & WILL BREAK when HUNTING FOR REAL in the woods :-O
The ONLY thing an AVID BOW HUNTER can do is ELIMINATE this chance of error by installing a SHELF.
The ONLY thing a SHELF needs is a RUG, and it DOESN'T need to be made from "bear fur" or other nonsense. I'VE been using the "curly" or "loop" side of some VELCRO TAPE, and it WORKS GREAT !!!
I think you've just INSPIRED me for my NEXT video !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Personally I use a tab so I use the stitching for markings, not a permanent solution but with enough practice it'll be instinctive.
Greetings A Pheasant !
Tabs are GREAT - I too have one, and find myself regularly shooting with it - but I STILL use my FINGERS and FRACTIONS of FINGERS as my measuring stick, so I can SWITCH between DIFFERENT shooting tabs:
ON a 40# to 55# bow:
- your 20m Initial Gap will be approximately 3 fingers; and
- your 10m Interval Gap will be approximately 1/2 finger
THAT SAID, Then:
- IF 1/2 finger gap change will give you a +/- 10m change in range; THEN
- 1/4 finger gap change will give you a +/- 5m change in range; AND
- 1/8 finger gap change will give you a +/- 2.5m change in range; AND
- 1/16 finger gap change will give you a +/- 1m change in range
:-O
This is surprisingly EASY and SIMPLE to MEASURE:
1. LOOK at your fingers pulling against your bowstring;
2. SET your thumbnail right smack in the MIDDLE of your index finger - THAT'S 1/2 finger;
3. SPLIT the distance from your thumbnail to the top of your index finger - THAT's 1/4 finger;
4. SPLIT that distance - THAT's 1/8 finger; and
5. SPLIT that distance - THAT's 1/16 finger
SIMPLE
NO NEED to worry about "Counting-Stitches" - WHAT would you do if you bought a NEW tab and it either had NO STITCHING or the stitches were a DIFFERENT SIZE :-O ??????
WATCH for the upcoming video on just how SIMPLE finger-measuring can be !
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
What poundage are you using?
Hi Dave !
SHORT ANSWER:
Each spring I start off with 40# limbs/bows, but by June I'm back to shooting 50# and even 58# bows
What you'll find is that most competitive archers (Olympic Recurve, Barebow) ultimately settle on about 45# to 48# bows, and that's for several reasons:
1. light-draw weight bows in fact are far far LESS "forgiving" of any flaws in an archer's RELEASE technique; but once you hit about 40#, there's enough tension in the bowstring that it literally "pulls itself" out of the archer's fingers, resulting in a smoother release with noticeably less right-to-left error being introduced; and
2. any bow with a draw weight HIGHER than 48# will indeed still reduce the left-to-right errors, but in truth they're HARD TO COMPETE with, because after shooting (say) 60 arrows (a typical round) pulling 58# you're PRETTY DARN TIRED ;-)
IF you're commenting because you see me SHAKING in the video, there are still OTHER reasons:
1. It's damned-HARD to hold 50# or more at full draw while TALKING for 15 seconds; and
2. I've already shot quite a few arrows, so I'm already muscle-fatigued; and
3. I'm old. ;-)
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
Wow.. insanely amazing tutorial! Thank you for such an amazing method of shooting. The only thing here that would have been better, would have been to show the arrows and where they hit on each target, as you are shooting them. Part of me is skeptical on how well they hit. I'm sure you're a truthful guy, but just going off of the numerous phony or "staged" videos on youtube.
Thz for the informative vid 👍🏻 How come you talk in the metric system? You are american right? Im not complaining though ,cause all i think in is the metric 😁
Greetings & WELCOME to VOGTLAND OUTDOORS Helldober !
Hahahaha - you're a man after my own heart.
I'm an AEROSPACE ENGINEER and AI DATA SCIENTIST by education:
- BS in Aerospace Engineering & Mechanics, U of MN
- MS (abt) in Robotics & Control Systems, U of MN
- MS Computer Science (AI & Applied Mathematics), IIT
So the METRIC SYSTEM MAKES SENSE to me.
I can even CONVERT meters to yards & yards to meters IN MY HEAD - EASILY
WANT TO LEARN MY TRICK?
YARDS to METERS:
SUBTRACT 1/10 of the YARDS from the YARDS and you'll have METERS!
EXAMPLE: 40 yds - (40/10 = 4) = 36 meters (an error of only 1 FOOT over 40 YARDS, or less than 1%)
METERS to YARDS:
ADD 1/10 of the METERS onto the METERS and you'll get YARDS !
EXAMPLE: 30 m + (30/10 = 3) = 33 yards (an error of LESS than a foot over 30m, or less than 1%)
How's THAT for cool !
I do this ALL THE TIME when I'm COMPETING in 3D shoots :-)
Cheers,
- Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
hello from France, your video is very interesting
did you change the setting of your tiller?
( I shoot bare-bow with the tiller at zero )
Have you changed the height of your notch?
I'm the 429 (lol)
Encroyable !
Zoot alore !
Je parler le Francais comme le vache espaniol, mais j'ai travaillais au Cameroon (on parle le Francais la bas)...
Mois? Il y a plus que 30 ans depuis je parle le Francais, but on va essayer ;-) ...
En Englais...
GLAD you found the video intriguing :-) ...
ANSWERS:
1. I have not changed anything about the bows I shoot - not the tiller (though sometimes I'm curious to try), not the height of my nock (I THINK you mean "nock", not "notch").
2. My goal is to demonstrate an innovate shooting method which demand NOTHING from the bow being shot. Instead you can simply pick up ANY bow, and - using the 5-step method - shoot with both confidence and accuracy :-)
3. MAYBE the ONLY change I perceive ever making is adjusting the location of the nocking point slight (say4mm) higher than would be typical, but I really can't say. I have at least 10 bows, and I've only done this on 1 of them; the other 9 bows have a nocking point located approximately 1 arrow-width (5 mm?) above being perfectly perpendicular.
I hope my answers help you.
I'll be making a NEW video on VOGTLAND STRINGWALKING this weekend - please watch for it !
Now it's YOUR turn to tell me about YOU - you're the FIRST FRENCH BAREBOW archer who has posted in the past year; most of them are from the USA (only 53% or less), but the remaining 47% are actually from ALL OVER the PLANET: UK, Sweden, Poland, France, Spain, Greece, Malta, Romania, LOTS in Iraq & Iran (cool), Inda, and a SURPRISING amount in INDONESIA and AUSTRALIA. Oh and Brazil, Peru and Argentina, and a handful from north Africa, Egypt, South Africa, Zimbabwe and other east African nations.
What does a FRENCH BAREBOW ARCHER actually SHOOT?
a STICK bow?
a LONG bow or RECURVE bow?
What is your Draw Weight?
How tall are you (in cm) ?
ARE you permitted to HUNT in FRANCE using a bow (I'm told my all my GERMAN subscribers that they CAN'T) :-|
I'm SO curious !
a toute a l'heure,
-Mark
I think you mean feet not meters, surely?
Hi Chris !
I mean either YARDS or METERS, but I absolutely DON'T mean FEET :-).
There's only a 10% difference between YARDS and METERS, and at hunting distances from 10m/10yds out to 40m/40yds there's hardly any difference in the "gap" you measure between the Nocking Point of the arrow and the Drawing Point of your Index Finger.
Hmmm... you sound like you might be SKEPTICAL that I shoot at 70m, 80m and even 90m (100yds) BAREBOW, with any level of accuracy, so you assume I meant only 100 ft (30m) ?
Think again - we CAN and DO shoot regularly at 50m, 60m, 70m, 80m and quite regularly at 90m, in fact it's our favorite distance !
That said, I'm only saying I can HIT a 5ft target at 90m about 3 out of 6, maybe a best of 5 out of 6 times. But that's pretty damn amazing BAREBOW, and not spending 3-4 hours a day practicing ;-)
Watch my videos.
Cheers,
-Mark Vogt | VOGTLAND OUTDOORS
@@VOGTLANDOUTDOORS Hi Mark and thanks for your reply. I'm not sceptical at all, seeing is believing and I'm impressed
I've noticed that you measure your gaps on fingers. Would you recommend a barebow tab (with markings) for a newbie or your method of using fingers (and a glove).
Thanks
Edit: I'm fairly new to archery and having tried all styles barebow is my main focus.
or...just use a tab with marks or stitches lol