Hello from Houston, Texas sir. Not sure what I appreciate more, the video pics or your way of explaining, it all has helped me greatly. And Professor King was a super plus! Roger That
Great video sir, i really appreciate you breaking everything down i usually work on my own truck but the hub assembly talk has scared me. After watching this video i think im ready now & completely confident
Thank you on your video fron San Antonio ,Texas as i just wanted to view how to replace the front hubs . I do alot of work on my vehicles but was unsure on this one as this is my first four wheel drive vehicle to replace hubs and this is my pride and joy.
Nice video. I'm getting ready to do this on my F350 today and while I've done it on my Jeep many times, I figured I'd watch a video or two to see if there was anything different. Your video answered all the questions I had.
dang the rust from being up north! lol down here in virginia i can slide the hubs off no problem like you said... thanks for the tutorial! about to go do my truck!
Thanks for the vid. It came up today while searching for a little info on replacing my locking hub. Just FYI for anyone installing a NEW locking hub...the retaining clip does not go back this easy because it takes a little effort to seat the new o-ring on the NEW locking hub and initially there is not enough depth for the retaining clip to pop in to. I just installed one today and the trick is to just get it started where it stays put like in this vid, and then use a demo screwdriver and tap it on the clip in several different spots and you will see the hub gradually seat itself and the clip pop in.
Hey just wanted to let u know a small trick. The wheel hub u removed with the ABS , well if u remove that sensor from the wheel hub assembly, you can actually put grease in there and the grease gets down to the bearings. So non serviceable hubs can be maintained to make them last a bit longer...
Here in the States (Buffalo, NY) that truck would likely be in the junkyard rusted beyond recognition. Rock salt is corrosive to metal but pretreated rock salt ( coated with magnesium chloride) used here in Buffalo and Rochester is much worse. I can't believe how good of shape the sheet metal is on that truck maybe it's a southern truck.
Don't forget, start the motor and turn the wheels with the steering wheel, or else it will push power steering fluid out the vent hole AND all over your floor
Well done buddy, very professional. I'm fixing to do my 2011 4X4 f250 and I'm debating what brand of hub to use. How is the Timken holding up so far? I heard they're made in China, that right there threw up a red flag for me.
There's two metal washers and then a plastic washer metal first then the plastic washer then another metal washer that's your break for when you're turning off your four-wheel drive to keep the axle from spinning while you're driving in 2 wheel drive very important pieces to be in there
Hub assembly hack!!! If you have abs brakes on you front hub. Just pull the senser out and pack the hole with marine grease. And it will keep the internal bearing lubricated. That's why these bearings don't last. They have no way to be lubricated properly. And also once water and dirt get in there it's all down hill. Marine grease all on the front hub bearings. Just about every time you rotate your tires
I buy New hubs for my 00 Ford excursion. I have abs and wounder... If i put marine grease in the abs hole, do i get any problem with abs light? Thanks for anawear😊👍🇧🇻
they fail even if you put grease in them, its not from lack of grease, it's from water and dirt intrusion, when the vacuum seal fails most people just use the manual hub lock instead of the auto, no one stops to think about the shit getting into the hub
I'm going to be doing the whole front end soon. Been feeling an unusual feeling intermittently in the steering wheel. I think a u-joint (CV joint) is starting to bind. Found an axle kit from Detroit Axle to do everything. My 2006 6.0 Powerstroke has over 162,000 miles on it. I'm thinking that's about 260,000+ Kilometers. I know 62 miles is 100k.
Ah guys don't clamp your break lines, they break down internally and will fail sooner. Play it safe, tie it up high with a zip lock bag over it then just re-bleed that brake caliper when you install it, after all you're going to have to re-bleed it anyways. Other than that it looked pretty good to me. Super job. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Also I like to get all the old break fluid out it does break down and there is contaminants in it keep it clean it can't hurt it's cheap and your in it anyway 😊
@@kevinoneill41 I agree 100%. I didn't show it in the video but a lot of times I bleed the brakes until it starts to come out clear so I know the brake fluid is fresh. Thanks for watching and passing on your knowledge to others. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Hey i am working on my sled Its a 340 olympique with a Everest 440 engine in it Im going to do every rebuild i can on it what playlist should i watch to see what to do its fan cooled too.
@@PowerModzOfficial man, I was doing my brakes and hubs, got all back together only to find I ordered “course” thread studded hubs. I’m just going to get new lug nuts because return shipping is more expensive than new nuts. Also, how did you go about getting the studs in the back of the hub tight enough? The two nut method?
Don't vise grip your rubber lines. They have a hard inside line you can crush. Just put a stick from the front of the seat to the brake pedal and move the seat till it applies slight pressure. Disconnect the battery or brake light switch so you don't kill the battery.
Louie change those hub locks out with WARN hubs, way cheaper than factory and are awesome you'll get 2 for the price of 1. Is you truck equipped with auto 4 wheel drive? If so check those vacuum hoses for cracks. You might loose the auto with those warn hubs but when they are locked in they are locked. Love your vids keep em coming. Quick question hows married life with you in the shop all the time LOL.
Some one asked me why I bother to keep working on all this old stuff. Well I bought it new for X now to replace it its XX. I could redo the turbos, engine, engine, trans. And rads with all the new bullet proof mods and It will be X. I love my 6.4 Once I kicked the failed government air quality science projects out and in the garbage. Properly tuned and breathing diesels are clean and mean. If your going to race build it to race. But if you want it to work and last tune it right keep your low boost fuel tuned down. Im tuned to#2 out of 5 after market cold air intake. She pull me and my house all throug Canadas Rocky Mountan Range and then some with a big smile all the way
Don't put vice grips on your brake line your rupture the inside of it and will cause the caliper to stick when you hit the brakes and take forever to back off
Instead of pinching the brake hose, press the brake pedal to the floor and lock it there. It will prevent brake fluid from dripping down while you make the repair.
OR... with driver seat back, place a tool box, 2x4, etc.. between front of seat & brake pedal, move seat forward until tool box depresses brake pedal. I also use this method when alone & checking truck & trailer brake lights. If you have an adjustable pedal control, you can utilize it with moving seat to wedge tool box (or whatever you're using)
I have a 1997 F350 4X4 SRW Crew Cab 8ft Bed, and it has over 250,000 miles, I think I need to do a complete replacement of everything... ( Brakes, Rotors, Calipers, and bearings and or hubs...) But I'm getting mixed info, because one person "NAPA-AUTO" say's the bearings are separate and must be pulled from the hub, but Pepboys said it's all in a sealed unit... I need the most "HEAVY DUTY" complete system because I'm going to be towing very heavy loads cross country 2 or 3 times a year...So is there such a kit for Extream Towing that has everything in it as a matching set?? I want the best Dollar for dollar value, because I'm handicapped and on a low income, but also can't afford to be replacing them again... I also can't afford to order them and it be the wrong item either, so please help... Please let me know asap what you would recommend... Thanks
You really need to replace the axle shafts on both sides if the needle bearings failed or only on the side it failed. The axel wears down where the needle bearings failed and rubbed against the axel shaft. If you don't it will not last long
Grat video! I replace bothe bearing hub assemblies on my 2011 F350. any idea why i would be getting an error from my ABS system now? Checked wiring and it is connected.
You never went back and torqued the 4 nuts to the knuckle. I’ve been torquing mine to 133 ft/lbs as per the shop manual and my truck is on its third hub. Did you just forget to tighten them or what?
He didn't check the bearing surface on the outer shaft, the inner needle bearing rides upon it. That was the bearing he put grease on in the beginning. It always wears out before the main hub bearing its self .
my locking hub is stuck really really bad. the locking ring I had to use locking pliers and twist it out like a centimeter at a time. I think it had seized or mechanically welded to the groove it sits in. I applied penetrating oil around the shoulder of the locking hub, and went at it pretty good with a hammer but... it wouldn't budge. I hit it a few times with a metal hammer and it cracked just a bit so I figured I better lay off and do some research. I thought maybe heat but I've never used heat on something like this before... Do you have any suggestions to getting the locking hub out? It seems to be completely seized onto the hub assembly. I'm at a loss... oh and they aren't stuck in or out of 4x4, 4x4 engages and disengages properly .. I need to replace the ball joints and gotta get that thing out of there...
You have to pry the axle forward slightly toward the hub with a pry bar and the hub will stop sandwiching the ring into it's groove. Also, your snap ring pliers may not have been opening the snap ring quite far enough if they were small and not very beefy. Check these out for future use - www.jsnowcreations.com/?p=2168
Did the Timken hub come with with 4 studs that mount the back of the hub to that axle knuckle? Or did you have to take them out of the back of the old hub and put them into the new hub?
Hi i have a question me and my dad are going to attempt replacing the same driver side bearing on our 7.3 03 truck, My question is: when i remove the caliper can I just hang it on the side without taking the hose off? and also what do I need to do when i put it back on? any tips or important procedures? will be my first time removing the brake other than that i think we got this :)
I've watched several of these videos and I find it extremely hard to believe that these things just pop out with a light tap of a hammer or just a light tug on them. I just replaced them on my 2011 F350 and I can assure you that they just didn't pop out. Even using a hammer with a 5lb sledge head on it it still would not come out. While I do appreciate what your doing I think you should at least explain that these things can be a royal pain in the rear.
Is that a 1997?? I put in the top to see a 1997 Ford F-350 4x4 front hub and bearing replaced and this popped up... But your headlights looks nothing like mine... You should put the year of your truck on the top listing as well as what trucks these will fit... Please let me know if these are the same hubs rotors and calipers as mine 1997 F-350 Crew-Cab 4x4 long-bed Diesel single rear wheel... And if not please post link to where I can find it... I have a shake when I hit the brakes, and it has just over 250 thousand miles, so I want to replace all the Hubs-Bearings Rotors Calipers and brakes on the front... I'm Handicapped and need to hire someone to do the work for me, so I want to first make sure I get the right parts because I tried to look up the parts for it and am getting many different types of hubs for it from like the one you have to ones that have the rotor built onto the hub... I also want to see someone doing it to see how long and how hard it is so I don't get ripped off in time... That way I will know how it's done and I can see if he is trying to make it harder than it is to get more money... I have all the air tools and want to see how long you take... Because if you take 20 minutes per side then he shouldn't take more than one hour per side... So please post info asap... Thanks
I honestly mean no offense, but I see many pros use chrome sockets with impacts. And for hoses I use hose pinch off pliers. Lang makes them in USA for a very reasonable rate. Really, I'm just curious as to why, not trying to be offensive...perhaps I'm being too ocd, but i would never let any of my good USA made chrome sockets touch an impact of any kind.
You talk about safety and I really like to watch people push for safety. However you are working on your truck only supported by a hydraulic jack. Please use your jack stands before you have a bad day when truck slips off jack head. Safety is not an option, Safety is a fulltime every time requirement.
Also using chrome sockets on impact use is a very bad idea, chrome sockets are high tempered chrome vanadium and can explode cause personal injury. Always use the proper tool for the job. Just cause it worked one time doesn't mean the next time it's not going to explode.
People... never pinch off a brake hose with vise grips, this is a terrible and very amateur approach. The hose has a more rigid (PTFE) inner liner tube that gets damaged when pinched shut. Quit screwin around, plan to bleed the brakes... hose pliers are designed for heater/coolant, vacuum etc. hoses that have no structural inner liner... once a brake hose is pinched with vise grips enough to stop fluid, the teflon inner is damaged. Capping the line off once disconnected is appropriate...
Chris, he removes the caliper as well in this video... not necessary for hub service is correct, seems you piped up having only read the title of the video is my guess here. I'll save ya the suffering so you don't have to watch it, pick up the video at th-cam.com/video/K69k0cOLr80/w-d-xo.htmlm10s... he starts in on the importance of "not pinching the hose too tight" and blahhibity blahh about actual "pinch cycles" the hoses are good for?? Shit's absurd... Accident's are "caused", people... they don't "just happen"... they're almost always avoidable. It's the people walking through life telling themselves "oh accidents just happen" are the ones likely to "cause them" This guy sure spent plenty time dialing in his sweet haircut and bowling shirt/cool guy image but never learned about the anatomy of a brake hose. Cuz let's be realistic... one only needs to present the illusion to certify as an internet instructor any more... Never pinch a brake hose... *eyes rolling**
Ah, I didn't watch the whole thing, just saw at one point he used the vice grips to pull off the ABS sensor wire (literally in the process of doing these on mine). Did not see him pull the actual brake line, may have stopped to early.
Lol! Okay so I didn't need to bash his cool guy image... I was temporarily at a loss for words there to make my point. Nothin wrong with lookin sharp... ya got my point though people...
![มองหน้ากันไม่ติด (Awkward) - โอ๊ต ปราโมทย์ FEAT. MAIYARAP [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/4b02SY_r6Gw/mqdefault.jpg)
Hello from Houston, Texas sir. Not sure what I appreciate more, the video pics or your way of explaining, it all has helped me greatly. And Professor King was a super plus!
Roger That
Great video sir, i really appreciate you breaking everything down i usually work on my own truck but the hub assembly talk has scared me. After watching this video i think im ready now & completely confident
Thank you on your video fron San Antonio ,Texas as i just wanted to view how to replace the front hubs . I do alot of work on my vehicles but was unsure on this one as this is my first four wheel drive vehicle to replace hubs and this is my pride and joy.
Great video bud !!
I feel your pain on the rusted parts I'm in upstate NY myself, working on older vehichles is always an adventure..
Nice video. I'm getting ready to do this on my F350 today and while I've done it on my Jeep many times, I figured I'd watch a video or two to see if there was anything different. Your video answered all the questions I had.
dang the rust from being up north! lol down here in virginia i can slide the hubs off no problem like you said... thanks for the tutorial! about to go do my truck!
Thanks for the vid. It came up today while searching for a little info on replacing my locking hub. Just FYI for anyone installing a NEW locking hub...the retaining clip does not go back this easy because it takes a little effort to seat the new o-ring on the NEW locking hub and initially there is not enough depth for the retaining clip to pop in to. I just installed one today and the trick is to just get it started where it stays put like in this vid, and then use a demo screwdriver and tap it on the clip in several different spots and you will see the hub gradually seat itself and the clip pop in.
Thanks for putting this video out, it was great help.
Just got the Bosch rotors . Powder coated nice. Definitely thumps up. New Parts!
Very informative"
Thanks for posting... nice video and excellent picture quality.
Great video! Thank you for sharing it was a big help
Hey just wanted to let u know a small trick. The wheel hub u removed with the ABS , well if u remove that sensor from the wheel hub assembly, you can actually put grease in there and the grease gets down to the bearings. So non serviceable hubs can be maintained to make them last a bit longer...
Thanks great video, easy step by step, strongly recommend watching
really enjoy your ford videos - thanks for making them!
Here in the States (Buffalo, NY) that truck would likely be in the junkyard rusted beyond recognition. Rock salt is corrosive to metal but pretreated rock salt ( coated with magnesium chloride) used here in Buffalo and Rochester is much worse. I can't believe how good of shape the sheet metal is on that truck maybe it's a southern truck.
Don't forget, start the motor and turn the wheels with the steering wheel, or else it will push power steering fluid out the vent hole AND all over your floor
Well done buddy, very professional. I'm fixing to do my 2011 4X4 f250 and I'm debating what brand of hub to use. How is the Timken holding up so far? I heard they're made in China, that right there threw up a red flag for me.
There's two metal washers and then a plastic washer metal first then the plastic washer then another metal washer that's your break for when you're turning off your four-wheel drive to keep the axle from spinning while you're driving in 2 wheel drive very important pieces to be in there
Hub assembly hack!!! If you have abs brakes on you front hub. Just pull the senser out and pack the hole with marine grease. And it will keep the internal bearing lubricated. That's why these bearings don't last. They have no way to be lubricated properly. And also once water and dirt get in there it's all down hill. Marine grease all on the front hub bearings. Just about every time you rotate your tires
I buy New hubs for my 00 Ford excursion. I have abs and wounder... If i put marine grease in the abs hole, do i get any problem with abs light? Thanks for anawear😊👍🇧🇻
they fail even if you put grease in them, its not from lack of grease, it's from water and dirt intrusion, when the vacuum seal fails most people just use the manual hub lock instead of the auto, no one stops to think about the shit getting into the hub
I'm going to be doing the whole front end soon. Been feeling an unusual feeling intermittently in the steering wheel. I think a u-joint (CV joint) is starting to bind. Found an axle kit from Detroit Axle to do everything. My 2006 6.0 Powerstroke has over 162,000 miles on it. I'm thinking that's about 260,000+ Kilometers. I know 62 miles is 100k.
is is my next project on my 2011 f 250. Doing the ball joints also.
Great presentation! Thank you!!!
Ah guys don't clamp your break lines, they break down internally and will fail sooner. Play it safe, tie it up high with a zip lock bag over it then just re-bleed that brake caliper when you install it, after all you're going to have to re-bleed it anyways. Other than that it looked pretty good to me. Super job. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
Also I like to get all the old break fluid out it does break down and there is contaminants in it keep it clean it can't hurt it's cheap and your in it anyway 😊
@@kevinoneill41 I agree 100%. I didn't show it in the video but a lot of times I bleed the brakes until it starts to come out clear so I know the brake fluid is fresh. Thanks for watching and passing on your knowledge to others. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya
What is the part number for that hub assembly? I need one for my 01 F350 4x4
I have no clue where you went but in Vermont new cars look old and I can tell you we have the same problem your not the only one.
Hey i am working on my sled Its a 340 olympique with a Everest 440 engine in it Im going to do every rebuild i can on it what playlist should i watch to see what to do its fan cooled too.
Mechanics hate you. But, I love you 🙏🏻
lol, they really do hate me!
@@PowerModzOfficial man, I was doing my brakes and hubs, got all back together only to find I ordered “course” thread studded hubs. I’m just going to get new lug nuts because return shipping is more expensive than new nuts. Also, how did you go about getting the studs in the back of the hub tight enough? The two nut method?
Hey Sir. How is your rotors and hubs now? Good video by the way😊👍🇧🇻
I love your vids please do more
What are all the socket sizes you used. I will be doing mine today. Mine gave out on me and made truck non drive able
Is the same on both two and four wheel drive? I logged in 2wd and this popped up. Good video by the way. Thanks
Don't vise grip your rubber lines. They have a hard inside line you can crush. Just put a stick from the front of the seat to the brake pedal and move the seat till it applies slight pressure. Disconnect the battery or brake light switch so you don't kill the battery.
It's always good to replace the two washers in the brake for the axle cuz they're worn out
Louie change those hub locks out with WARN hubs, way cheaper than factory and are awesome you'll get 2 for the price of 1. Is you truck equipped with auto 4 wheel drive? If so check those vacuum hoses for cracks. You might loose the auto with those warn hubs but when they are locked in they are locked. Love your vids keep em coming. Quick question hows married life with you in the shop all the time LOL.
Great video. Subbed. Thanks for the help, mate!
Thanks for the sub!
Some one asked me why I bother to keep working on all this old stuff. Well I bought it new for X now to replace it its XX. I could redo the turbos, engine, engine, trans. And rads with all the new bullet proof mods and It will be X. I love my 6.4 Once I kicked the failed government air quality science projects out and in the garbage. Properly tuned and breathing diesels are clean and mean. If your going to race build it to race. But if you want it to work and last tune it right keep your low boost fuel tuned down. Im tuned to#2 out of 5 after market cold air intake. She pull me and my house all throug Canadas Rocky Mountan Range and then some with a big smile all the way
Good vid. Thanks!
what year F-350 is that. My 2002 has the ABS sensors
Great video thanks
Don't put vice grips on your brake line your rupture the inside of it and will cause the caliper to stick when you hit the brakes and take forever to back off
Nice Replacement Video...
Instead of pinching the brake hose, press the brake pedal to the floor and lock it there. It will prevent brake fluid from dripping down while you make the repair.
Did not know this. You would need a stick from the steering wheel to the brake pedal though.
OR... with driver seat back, place a tool box, 2x4, etc.. between front of seat & brake pedal, move seat forward until tool box depresses brake pedal.
I also use this method when alone & checking truck & trailer brake lights.
If you have an adjustable pedal control, you can utilize it with moving seat to wedge tool box (or whatever you're using)
muchas gracias me fue muy util aqui en venezuela
I have a 1997 F350 4X4 SRW Crew Cab 8ft Bed, and it has over 250,000 miles, I think I need to do a complete replacement of everything... ( Brakes, Rotors, Calipers, and bearings and or hubs...) But I'm getting mixed info, because one person "NAPA-AUTO" say's the bearings are separate and must be pulled from the hub, but Pepboys said it's all in a sealed unit... I need the most "HEAVY DUTY" complete system because I'm going to be towing very heavy loads cross country 2 or 3 times a year...So is there such a kit for Extream Towing that has everything in it as a matching set?? I want the best Dollar for dollar value, because I'm handicapped and on a low income, but also can't afford to be replacing them again... I also can't afford to order them and it be the wrong item either, so please help... Please let me know asap what you would recommend... Thanks
Is this the same for 2003 Excursion V10 EB?
Hey Louie do you ever make it down to the states for hay days?
that snap ring on 05 and earlier is the hardest part
I think you meant newer, not earlier
Not surprised you can't feel it wobble when the weight is on the truck.
what kind of lube were you using thanks
You really need to replace the axle shafts on both sides if the needle bearings failed or only on the side it failed. The axel wears down where the needle bearings failed and rubbed against the axel shaft. If you don't it will not last long
do u have My videos for the rear bearing replacement?
Grat video! I replace bothe bearing hub assemblies on my 2011 F350. any idea why i would be getting an error from my ABS system now? Checked wiring and it is connected.
Did you figure it out ?
I am working on my 07 f350 180k , it was no where near this simple. Good info but it’s not as easy as it’s made out to be.
You never went back and torqued the 4 nuts to the knuckle. I’ve been torquing mine to 133 ft/lbs as per the shop manual and my truck is on its third hub. Did you just forget to tighten them or what?
how's your wheel joints?
He didn't check the bearing surface on the outer shaft, the inner needle bearing rides upon it. That was the bearing he put grease on in the beginning. It always wears out before the main hub bearing its self .
Is a new bearing pressed into the hub?
Guy, i like the 05+ front clip swap, but the 05+ hub caps on the old style rim and hub looks awful
Turn the steering wheel all the way to the right to get your caliper bracket bolts
Or was that left wait a minute. What side are we working on?😂😂😂
my locking hub is stuck really really bad. the locking ring I had to use locking pliers and twist it out like a centimeter at a time. I think it had seized or mechanically welded to the groove it sits in.
I applied penetrating oil around the shoulder of the locking hub, and went at it pretty good with a hammer but... it wouldn't budge. I hit it a few times with a metal hammer and it cracked just a bit so I figured I better lay off and do some research. I thought maybe heat but I've never used heat on something like this before...
Do you have any suggestions to getting the locking hub out? It seems to be completely seized onto the hub assembly. I'm at a loss...
oh and they aren't stuck in or out of 4x4, 4x4 engages and disengages properly .. I need to replace the ball joints and gotta get that thing out of there...
You have to pry the axle forward slightly toward the hub with a pry bar and the hub will stop sandwiching the ring into it's groove. Also, your snap ring pliers may not have been opening the snap ring quite far enough if they were small and not very beefy. Check these out for future use - www.jsnowcreations.com/?p=2168
why did you not show how to take the nuts off the hub assembly , was it magik? id really like to know, what fits on those hub nuts?
where do you buy your parts?
I live in northern Indiana may use nothing but pure salt on the roads in the winter time so everything up here is rusted to crap too
That's why my excursion is parked.
Good video thanks just a little more light might have helped
Clip keeps the axle from walking in and out while driving
Did the Timken hub come with with 4 studs that mount the back of the hub to that axle knuckle? Or did you have to take them out of the back of the old hub and put them into the new hub?
Mine just came with them.
Thought he said they were included.
Use the German torque good and tight
Works like putting your finger on a straw. Fluid can't move
Hi i have a question me and my dad are going to attempt replacing the same driver side bearing on our 7.3 03 truck,
My question is: when i remove the caliper can I just hang it on the side without taking the hose off? and also what do I need to do when i put it back on? any tips or important procedures? will be my first time removing the brake other than that i think we got this :)
Never let a caliper hang. also, watch that the sensor wire doesn't get impacted, I've found the factory sensor housing breaks really easy
Like a Boss
I've watched several of these videos and I find it extremely hard to believe that these things just pop out with a light tap of a hammer or just a light tug on them. I just replaced them on my 2011 F350 and I can assure you that they just didn't pop out. Even using a hammer with a 5lb sledge head on it it still would not come out. While I do appreciate what your doing I think you should at least explain that these things can be a royal pain in the rear.
That's front end 😂😂
Timken is the best. Just put 2 on a Duramax
A shop replaced my right-front wheel hub on my 2006 F-250 Super Duty 4x4 gas. That's all they did, no brakes, nothing else.
$700
And don't use Chrome sockets on your impact they'll crack and shattering shrapnel get in you
Is that a 1997?? I put in the top to see a 1997 Ford F-350 4x4 front hub and bearing replaced and this popped up... But your headlights looks nothing like mine... You should put the year of your truck on the top listing as well as what trucks these will fit... Please let me know if these are the same hubs rotors and calipers as mine 1997 F-350 Crew-Cab 4x4 long-bed Diesel single rear wheel... And if not please post link to where I can find it... I have a shake when I hit the brakes, and it has just over 250 thousand miles, so I want to replace all the Hubs-Bearings Rotors Calipers and brakes on the front... I'm Handicapped and need to hire someone to do the work for me, so I want to first make sure I get the right parts because I tried to look up the parts for it and am getting many different types of hubs for it from like the one you have to ones that have the rotor built onto the hub... I also want to see someone doing it to see how long and how hard it is so I don't get ripped off in time... That way I will know how it's done and I can see if he is trying to make it harder than it is to get more money... I have all the air tools and want to see how long you take... Because if you take 20 minutes per side then he shouldn't take more than one hour per side... So please post info asap... Thanks
Agreed 👍
do you have a part # for that hub assembly
thanks
No sorry - easy to find online
Wow he went from taking the wheel off to lay in the HUB on the counter skipped everything
Prepping the new part before he took off the old one later in the video.
they can last from 3 hours to 3 years they are never for sure.
Anyone know what year of truck this is ? Sure would be helpful info.
2000
sucks when you forget to wipe off your new rotors,
I honestly mean no offense, but I see many pros use chrome sockets with impacts. And for hoses I use hose pinch off pliers. Lang makes them in USA for a very reasonable rate. Really, I'm just curious as to why, not trying to be offensive...perhaps I'm being too ocd, but i would never let any of my good USA made chrome sockets touch an impact of any kind.
🤣😂🤣😂🤑
You talk about safety and I really like to watch people push for safety. However you are working on your truck only supported by a hydraulic jack. Please use your jack stands before you have a bad day when truck slips off jack head. Safety is not an option, Safety is a fulltime every time requirement.
Also using chrome sockets on impact use is a very bad idea, chrome sockets are high tempered chrome vanadium and can explode cause personal injury. Always use the proper tool for the job. Just cause it worked one time doesn't mean the next time it's not going to explode.
can you please do a re-shoot, where you are in 24 inches of snow and have to perform the same Operation.......that is my upcoming weekend nightmare
Its like my grandma always said, If you're scared go to church
Yeah, I noticed that too. I've seen a pro cranking down lug nuts with a chrome socket! Now thats crazy.
Wheel chucks anyone? Bottle jacks have no wheels. They will tip over.
This video should be called Johnny Danger's Auto Shop.
At least say it took so much time getting that snap ring off u had to edit that part out. So I/we know it's not a 5sec. Removal
Haha, my husband heartily agrees!
I wish it was as easy as just snapping it back in lmao
Wow!!! a whole 1 year warranty, that's great. Appears even you don't have much confidence in your parts. China???
I appreciate the time you've spent here, but you didnt show a close up really of ANYTHING. I dont feel anymore confident about my brake job...
This guys voice sounds like Christoph Waltz
"Anybody have a spare hub?" Lol
I need 2 as well
People... never pinch off a brake hose with vise grips, this is a terrible and very amateur approach. The hose has a more rigid (PTFE) inner liner tube that gets damaged when pinched shut. Quit screwin around, plan to bleed the brakes... hose pliers are designed for heater/coolant, vacuum etc. hoses that have no structural inner liner... once a brake hose is pinched with vise grips enough to stop fluid, the teflon inner is damaged. Capping the line off once disconnected is appropriate...
Pretty sure it was the ABS sensor he pulled, not the brake line itself. You don't have to pull the brake line to replace the hub.
Pretty sure it was the ABS sensor he pulled, not the brake line itself. You don't have to pull the brake line to replace the hub.
Chris, he removes the caliper as well in this video... not necessary for hub service is correct, seems you piped up having only read the title of the video is my guess here. I'll save ya the suffering so you don't have to watch it, pick up the video at th-cam.com/video/K69k0cOLr80/w-d-xo.htmlm10s... he starts in on the importance of "not pinching the hose too tight" and blahhibity blahh about actual "pinch cycles" the hoses are good for?? Shit's absurd...
Accident's are "caused", people... they don't "just happen"... they're almost always avoidable. It's the people walking through life telling themselves "oh accidents just happen" are the ones likely to "cause them"
This guy sure spent plenty time dialing in his sweet haircut and bowling shirt/cool guy image but never learned about the anatomy of a brake hose. Cuz let's be realistic... one only needs to present the illusion to certify as an internet instructor any more...
Never pinch a brake hose... *eyes rolling**
Ah, I didn't watch the whole thing, just saw at one point he used the vice grips to pull off the ABS sensor wire (literally in the process of doing these on mine). Did not see him pull the actual brake line, may have stopped to early.
Lol! Okay so I didn't need to bash his cool guy image... I was temporarily at a loss for words there to make my point. Nothin wrong with lookin sharp... ya got my point though people...
sorry you replaced caliber, thats why,,,,,,,,,,,
Speaks perfect American, working on an American truck.. But talks kilometers
He's Canadian
Right after he talks about trying to be safe he uses a chrome socket on a impact gun 😂
yes but i safety squinted.
@@PowerModzOfficial are you osha certified in squinting? 😂
😮
All my sockets are impact quality $😊
That lock out hub is $400
Gloves and goggles are for city boys!
why not just remove caliber with line on and tie it out of the way.why take the line off,
New caliper goes on as seen in this video.
I guess you don't believe in installing thrust washers. Or maybe they are not necessary? Just clip and go eh??
He goes with ome Parts but buys Timken
Ford doesn't make all of the parts themselves. Ford uses Dana and Timken.
Why don't you set up the camera in the toilet down the hall?
Wish it showed the model that has the rotor mounted inboard to the lug bolt flange, where you have to pull the entire hub first. Grrr.
Dualies suck. :)
Brake pad to wear that stuff off your wasting Brake clean
Jobber is not a part store .. jobber is the price of the part