Thank you for making this, spark plug four stumped me. I thought I had to remove the pump to remove the plug. Turns out the cover was just really stuck!
I just had to do this on my Kia. Thanks for the video. I didn't see that even the factory put anti seize on the original spark plugs. They were not difficult to remove after 105000 miles.
Thanks a bunch. Even though I’ve always done my own plugs on most of my older cars, pre-2000, I’m a bit intimidated by these newer cars, afraid of breaking something or setting of a check engine light or something! Lol, dealer wants $$400 just to do the plugs!
First coil plug I removed it snapped the brittle black tab on the back side of it. Ordered a new ignition coil harness as I’m sure it’ll happen to all of them. Till then, holding off to do them. What a pain
For reasons of liability, my official answer is "yes, any time you do work under the hood you should disconnect the negative battery terminal" With that said, in practice, for a spark plug change it is extremely unlikely to cause any issues if you do it with the battery still hooked up. You aren't messing with any energized circuits during the process.
To be honest, no. We weren't getting close to any primary 12V sources, and while the chance of shorting something out is never zero, it was about the same as doing a tire change would have been. I also didn't want to have the ECU reset its short term learning tables, which can happen when constant +12V power is interrupted to the computer. With that said, kids - don't be like Uncle Spinolio. In an abundance of caution, always disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before performing any work under the hood.
Always use a dab of anti size on the plug threads when installing into aluminum or you risk pulling the threads in the head on the next plug change. > $$$
I have mixed feelings about Instant Tinman. On older engines where getting the plugs out is rough and requires a lot of torque, or ones that have an unknown history prior to me working on them, I'll use anti-seize on the plug threads. But when the old plugs come out easily and the threads are clean, I skip it and just put the proper torque on the new ones instead of cranking them gorilla-tight. This advice, of course, does not apply to the Ford 5.4, which will pull spark plug threads out of the heads when you change windshield wiper blades...
I do what I want! And anyway the garage door opener is busted and the only tube of Instant Tinman I have was in the other tool kit. I just tightened those bad boys until my precisely calibrated wrist went "click."
WRONG!!!!!!! THE 1ST STEP IS WRONG, AND HOW U DID THE CONNECTOR WAS WRONG ALSO, U NEED TO UNDO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL, AND U PULL THE GRAY TAB UP, THEN U GOTTA PUSH THE CONNECTOR ITSELF DOWN SO IT DOESNT COME OUT CAUSE UR NOT REMOVING THAT, WATCH A VIDEO ON HOW TO B4 U POST A MISINFORMED VIDEO
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Thank you for making this, spark plug four stumped me. I thought I had to remove the pump to remove the plug. Turns out the cover was just really stuck!
This really helped me with that pesky fourth coil removal... thanks for posting it!
Glad to be of assistance!
Who'd think 3 years later, someone else would need this video for the same damn thing :D
I just had to do this on my Kia. Thanks for the video. I didn't see that even the factory put anti seize on the original spark plugs. They were not difficult to remove after 105000 miles.
New from the factory plugs are always lubed.
I'm getting ready to do this.
Let me know how it goes!
Thank you. I was troubled how to get the last coil pack out.
Holy cow! Thank you for the 4th coil trick!
YW. I feel like TH-cam is at its best when people make each other's lives just a little bit easier by sharing what they know.
Thanks a bunch. Even though I’ve always done my own plugs on most of my older cars, pre-2000, I’m a bit intimidated by these newer cars, afraid of breaking something or setting of a check engine light or something! Lol, dealer wants $$400 just to do the plugs!
I use a small dab of dielectric grease on the new plug ceramic.... Mixed feelings about anti-seize on plug threads....
But awsome video do PCV valve video next if you can
I vote to remove the engine cover entirely....holds too much heat
So didn't have to disconnect the fuel line. I have to do mine soon, and was hoping to not have to mess with that.
Use the thinner quarter inch extension to remove that 4th coil bolt.
First coil plug I removed it snapped the brittle black tab on the back side of it. Ordered a new ignition coil harness as I’m sure it’ll happen to all of them. Till then, holding off to do them. What a pain
Oh, that sucks... Keep me informed how it goes once you get the replacement part!
For the spark plugs do you have to disconnect the negative terminal before replacing the plugs?
For reasons of liability, my official answer is "yes, any time you do work under the hood you should disconnect the negative battery terminal"
With that said, in practice, for a spark plug change it is extremely unlikely to cause any issues if you do it with the battery still hooked up. You aren't messing with any energized circuits during the process.
Thank you much. I spoke to my neighbors dad who is a mechanic as well. He told me is ok to change without having to take out the terminal.
@@kevincartagena396 Let me know how it goes - I'm glad I could help a little bit.
Will do
Use a magnetic spark plug socket.... Better for these deep plug holes....
SP you don't need to disconnect that electrical connector
Did you not disconnect the battery first?
To be honest, no. We weren't getting close to any primary 12V sources, and while the chance of shorting something out is never zero, it was about the same as doing a tire change would have been. I also didn't want to have the ECU reset its short term learning tables, which can happen when constant +12V power is interrupted to the computer.
With that said, kids - don't be like Uncle Spinolio. In an abundance of caution, always disconnect the negative terminal of your battery before performing any work under the hood.
with that the check engine code is removed?
In my case, the car did not post a code - this was just regular maintenance.
tune referrs to carburator n distibitor
Always use a dab of anti size on the plug threads when installing into aluminum or you risk pulling the threads in the head on the next plug change. > $$$
I have mixed feelings about Instant Tinman. On older engines where getting the plugs out is rough and requires a lot of torque, or ones that have an unknown history prior to me working on them, I'll use anti-seize on the plug threads. But when the old plugs come out easily and the threads are clean, I skip it and just put the proper torque on the new ones instead of cranking them gorilla-tight.
This advice, of course, does not apply to the Ford 5.4, which will pull spark plug threads out of the heads when you change windshield wiper blades...
New plug threads are lubricated at the factory.
You better have added anti seize you monster. And no torque to spec? The humanity.
I do what I want!
And anyway the garage door opener is busted and the only tube of Instant Tinman I have was in the other tool kit. I just tightened those bad boys until my precisely calibrated wrist went "click."
WRONG!!!!!!! THE 1ST STEP IS WRONG, AND HOW U DID THE CONNECTOR WAS WRONG ALSO, U NEED TO UNDO THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL, AND U PULL THE GRAY TAB UP, THEN U GOTTA PUSH THE CONNECTOR ITSELF DOWN SO IT DOESNT COME OUT CAUSE UR NOT REMOVING THAT, WATCH A VIDEO ON HOW TO B4 U POST A MISINFORMED VIDEO
😂
Someone’s triggered…maybe you need to retreat to your safe space