this electrician Joel is one of the best teachers on Electrical work for newbies like us. I have seen tons of videos, but his teaching, his comments and warning on small potential mistakes we newbies make is super excellent. Naming the things and procedures appropriately so we can learn that lingo is also very very important. He should have his own TH-cam channel.
This guy is a great teacher--clear, concise explanations with the reasons for doing everything, his pace is just right, and he uses clear, understandable language. That's rare anywhere, but especially in do-it-yourself videos.
I was thinking the exact same thing. I watch many different trade channels often. He should be teaching in a trade school as he is clearly the most articulate teacher I have listened to. A HEARTY THANK YOU!!!
This guy is great. Very thorough and easy to listen to. Usually you have to fast forward through a long video to keep your sanity but I had no problem listening to the whole thing. Great job!! I'm going to go check out some more of your videos now.
Did you just say D-I-Wires? Lol. Hey, I hadn’t planned to, but I just watched this whole thing. I was mesmerized, I guess! Joe did a nice job explaining as he went along. 👍
A lot of really good tips. Thanks for knowing that if the cable is clamped to the J box, the nearest staple can be up to 12” away. Inspectors around here want 8” regardless. Also thanks for pointing out that metal boxes need to be bonded to the equipment ground. In my locale, since the hole that was drilled upward from the basement (at 10:50) penetrated another floor, I would be required to use a fire sealant. I personally like to use 3M’s Fire Barrier Sealant CP 25WB+. Just put it in a caulking gun and squeeze into the hole until sealed. Also, in my locale, tamper resistant receptacles are required. Just a personal thing, on the right side of the J box at 16:27, I would have used another connector so there is one cable per connector.
You guys both are good at explaining shit. I wish I had more friends like you around when I get nervous on a new job. Actually I just need better friends lol
Really good video. Not using specialty tools and not wrapping connections with tape is great advice and very helpful. Maybe suggesting a small fire extinguisher be part of the tool list? Thanks.
One thing I've learned about cutting plaster walls using a carbide multi tool attachment (used for grout) it cut through the plaster just as fast and it won't dull.
I would suggest poking a hole in each corner and the center of the tracing of the box, Reason being - to check clearance of where your stud is, make sure you have full depth clearance, and to verify you have no obstructions
The one potential violation I saw was a kitchen circuit being used for another receptacle elsewhere. If it's a 20 amp circuit presumably it's a small appliance branch circuit, and those aren't supposed to have any other outlets. Don't recall anything being said to the contrary.
Lots of good best practices on this walk through video!... noticed mention of the question of why using a15amp receptacle paired with 20amp circuit (at 4:00), but no further explanation(?)
Jim, sorry for the slow response. The NEC table 210.21(B)(3) and 210.24 allow for the 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit. Short answer is-it's code.
Wow this is great! Im always having to do oldwork and your approach is fantastic!! very helpful! Sadly, NOT really helpful at present because all my work is on the second and third floors.. :(
Thanks Jeremy! I looked back at this and laughed at myself. I intend to cap all conductors and would cap this one too if given the chance. Wagos are great. We use them for specific applications, but they're more expensive and only allow a specific number of conductors = less flexible.
I like the wall paper in your client’s home…Thank you for the instructional video, exactly what I was looking for before adding an outlet in my house….though at my location we’re using bx metal clad wiring
They are on pretty much all outlets over the past several decades. Just remember it is a #1 Robertson as opposed to a #2 Robertson which you might be a little more used to for deck screws or general purpose screws.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs OH wow you're right! I just looked at the switches and outlets I bought and sure enough there it is! Now if we can get all the other screws this way I'd be happy lol.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ! Great presentation. One comment though. That junction box in the basement might be OK in the State you are in, but up here in Ontario (Canada) we would need to make sure that the grounds are also tied the metal box as well... I think Scott that you also mentioned this tip in one of your own subsequent videos. Further, not a problem in that house as the basement ceiling is all open, but again up here a small qualifier... we're not allowed to cover up junction boxes. So up here, if that basement was ever to get a ceiling, that junction box would have to be horizontal and the cover would have to be openable if the ceiling was there...
Excellent presentation, good details. Electrical code does not address drilling through structural members other than requiring nail plates if you’re too close to the edge, however the building code does. Most inspectors will want to see that a structural engineer has provided a size and location plan for drilling joists. It is usually cheapest to not drill the joists. Just run across the edges and use a protector board nailed alongside if subject to damage.
If you're going to expend the effort, put in a quad outlet. Use a deep box, if possible, because modern devices such as USB outlets, GFCI outlets, and smart switches are quite deep.
One of the better videos with code requirements explained, professional work, and proper tools used that I have seen. Except all the loose Romex hanging behind you in the video, obviously you didn't install them. I wish you had explained the 12/3 Romex with two circuits a little better for the phasing at the panel. As so many do it yourself install them on the same phase using a twin or wafers and eventually burn the neutral wire. Two pole breaker was a nice touch. Also if you had added somewhere in the video that each State has slightly adjusted or stricter codes and to check with the local AHJ. As New Mexico does not allow 15a receptacles on 20amp circuits. Texas requires State licenses and does not allow homeowners to perform electrical work, except change light bulbs. And don't forget the fire sealant as required by IRC 302.11(4).
Highly doubt New Mexico only requires 20 amp receptacles on branch circuits. The reason for that is the manufacturer. Manufacturers have posted on the 15 amp devices that they are approved for 20 amp pass through. If the receptacle if the sole device on a 20 amp branch circuit, then a 20 amp receptacle must be used. For commercial/industrial applications all receptacles must be 20 amp.
Great video. Are you using a common trip circuit breaker to make the shared neutrals safe? If not, how are the neutrals wired to make it safe with hot current from 2 different circuits?
Well if I had a basement (I don't, can't get under the house or up in the attic space either) this may have been educational. Care to do another video with a situation like that?
@@dalesworld1308 Wish I had access to the "dirt", but getting under the house is also a major pain, 200 year old farmhouse, with additions put on here and there, blocked access under the room I'd want the outlets in. Makes me want to tear out drywall and run the wiring through conduit instead. :(
When drilling holes to run wire through framing or joists, shouldn't there be some sort of metal protective layer protecting the wires in case some screws a screw through the wood?
Hello, I have a QQ on a simple connection: I have a wire coming from the electric panel to power a light switch and a receptacle. 1-Does this wire has to go to the light switch first, then "split" to go to the lamp and to the receptacle? or 2-The wire can go from the panel to the receptacle, then to the light switch, then to the light? The receptacle is closer to the panel than the light switch. Basically I have, 1-The panel --> 2-The receptacle --> 3-The switch. Thank you in advance for your help.
Great video. Very informative and professional. The only thing I would add is to drill up the wall from the basement before cutting the hole for the box upstairs. Then push a stout wire or a fish tape up the wall to make sure there are no obstructions in the wall that would prevent fishing the new cable.
This is a good video, though I would have wired that new duplex to a new breaker in the main breaker box, instead of the junction box. It's a little more Romex, and the cost of a new breaker, but in the end you will have more "control" over knowing what outlets and rooms are on which breakers in your main box. You will also not have to concern yourself with the amperage already being used for the junction box, because it is a new circuit. Another "good" thing, is that you can also add an outdoor GFI (with outlet covers) to this breaker on the outside of this wall (if you choose), and/or a second duplex outlet further down the wall upstairs, because the outlet you added up stairs is probably only for a lamp, TV, or vacuum cleaner (which is higher amperage, but only run for a few moments at a time), or some other low amperage electrical use. I did this in my home for a few new indoor outlets I added, with new breakers, so that I have more easy access to power outdoors for Christmas lights and/or power tools...etc.....Peace!
Generally, a good informative explanation, although really only applicable to homes with a basement. Depending on which edition of the National Electrical Code is enforced, some important code requirements, for this installation, should have been mentioned that are required in most areas of the US.
It is not required, but I use plastic NM connectors in metal J-boxes and panels, they are quicker to install and no chance of harming romex cable. No pre-twisting of wires is required if you use the proper wire nut. Wagos are UL listed and could also be used. Russ-Journeyman, 26 years in the Trade
I all depends how you was trained has a apprentice and then to a electrician. Twisted wires with pliers is the best way has you know you did it correctly. Wagos are the best!
I have to do this where a tiled wall meets directly with a tiled floor. the wall tile runs about 3 feet up and meets a plaster wall. that plaster wall is where the outlet will be. no trim to remove to get behind. Ill be coming up form a basement but i dont know how to get measurements for where to drill in the basement to land inside the wall above since i cant pierce any of the floor or wall tile to set a marker
'Theoreticaly' that Neutral can carry 40 Amps. I heard you're mentioning that the load is calculated and taken care of. However, sharing a current carrying conductor is not justifiable. Unless the 2 phases/hot are connected on separate phase. Red, black on separate phases. Algebraic sum of current meeting at a junction is zero...it goes on.
I have question for you. I used the new blue outlet boxes with the blue taps , that you tighten with screws and the taps tighten to drywall. I really do not like them. I tighten as far as it’s goes. But when I plug things into it and pull the plugs out , by the plug. I almost pulled the whole outlet, out the wall. How do you stop this from happening?
When this happens it usually means the tabs were not able to actually secure behind the drywall/Plaster. This old work box specifically has a larger gap and works well for thicker plaster walls amzn.to/30FUKec . Might be worth a try.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs no, this just was drywall., I made sure the taps were right. But the new outlets are so tight when you plug something into it. When you pull the plugs out. Until the outlet gets use a lot, it becomes alright. I like the idea, that you can put outlet boxes anywhere. I was ready to put a screw into the 4 holes next to the taps
This is great, but I don't have a basement... I need to learn how to do this under a window like in this video, in a slab home where the attic access is too small... If there is a video how to do that, let me know, please? I am expecting to have to ruin the wallpaper, and drill loads of holes...
At 11:03 I hope the lamp cord next to where you are drilling is for speakers or doorbell. Don't laugh I know a guy who wired his whole house with lamp cord that was 30 yrs ago and the place hasn't burned down yet. Something else I noticed, I was always told not to put a receptacle underneath a window. Don't know if that is code or not.
Wall space under windows is counted as part of the requirements so sometimes it is unavoidable. When possible the outlets can be spaced so they are to the side of the window but not actually under it. There could be local requirements or inspectors who consider it a wet location so those requirements would need to be met. Otherwise it shouldn't be an issue.
I have a floor outlet under my upstairs bed but no outlets on the wall behind the bed. How do I make wall outlets from the floor outlet. I currently have to run extension cords to both sides of the bed.
Great video but I got lost when you tried to explain about the red and black wires (3 in 1) another line, one with the wire nut and the other without it and then you pushed them in the back?....
Instead of drilling through all of those joists, can't you secure a 2x4 perpendicular to the joists and then staple the wire to it? That way no one can hang anything off of the wire?
Looking for opinions on a taboo subject. I hear people are installing smart switches that require neutral wire, but are connecting the switches white wire to the ground in the box! I would say it would work just fine but then sone current would then be flowing through the ground wire which obviously is NOT ok. Thoughts?
Use Radio Ra2 by Lutron. The neutral is only needed at the load switch. But one would be the wiser if they wired their house as if no lighting control is going in. Times are tough and products are costing more. And if a home is wired for lighting control and not standard switching then that person is in a world of hurt. As for tying the neutral and ground together, ya that's illegal. People commonly do that because they don't know what they're doing or didn't have enough wiring and didn't care about being safe.
This is great and all, but I really need to know how to do this on a second story floor please if we could get a video like this except that you dont have immediate basement access because you’re higher up
Interesting background sounds that we heard on this one. Clearly, other work was going on in the house while this was being filmed. Which leads me to wonder what some of that other work was, and what some of those sounds were from?
I am very, VERY much a novice. I have a wall that has a light switch on it. Is it possible to put a new outlet on that wall and draw power from the light switch to get power? and if so, how?
Slow to respond. You've probably already solved your problem. The simple answer is "yes"! Make sure to grab a hot and neutral and ground from the switch for your outlet. If the room you're adding an outlet to is a bathroom, kitchen, dining room, pantry, breakfast room, laundry room then lighting and outlets would need to be separated, generally. Follow our channel for more info. This video is similar to your situation th-cam.com/video/jSWMWSYYYFM/w-d-xo.html
I am curious, your work is great ,however when you stated that at 18 amps of current for the circuit you are pulling would be okay for the 20 amp circuit. Please double check this , breakers are rated at 80% of the breaker rating . In other works ,a 20 Amp breaker will trip if the load exceeds 16 amps. NEMA did this so you would not run into the problem you have with the old plug fuses ! The Edison base fuse would let you put a 30 amp fuse where a 15 amp should go !
The NEC code requirement has nothing to do with plug fuses, if that’s what’s being referenced. Overcurrent protective devices can have their operation affected by heat buildup within the circuit. NEC partially addressed this by requiring load calculations to utilize 125% for continuous loads. By definition, very few loads would be considered continuous (3 hours or more without shutting off) in a house. Meaning, 18A on a 20A circuit is fine based on what was mentioned in the example. Disclaimer: this is based on NFPA 70/NEC and local codes may dictate otherwise.
Confusion on nomenclature: The existing red wire is a "current carrying" wire, well aren't they all current carrying wires? However, it seems that the red wire would be a power or power "source" wire or in the old vernacular, a HOT wire.
:-) current carrying is terminology including hots and neutrals, but excluding grounds, since they're not current carrying under normal operation. Thanks for commenting!
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this electrician Joel is one of the best teachers on Electrical work for newbies like us. I have seen tons of videos, but his teaching, his comments and warning on small potential mistakes we newbies make is super excellent. Naming the things and procedures appropriately so we can learn that lingo is also very very important. He should have his own TH-cam channel.
This guy is a great teacher--clear, concise explanations with the reasons for doing everything, his pace is just right, and he uses clear, understandable language. That's rare anywhere, but especially in do-it-yourself videos.
Joel is awesome, thanks for the feedback 👍
I was thinking the exact same thing. I watch many different trade channels often. He should be teaching in a trade school as he is clearly the most articulate teacher I have listened to. A HEARTY THANK YOU!!!
half way in i had this exact same thought!!...i hope he's an instructor somewhere
This guy is great. Very thorough and easy to listen to. Usually you have to fast forward through a long video to keep your sanity but I had no problem listening to the whole thing.
Great job!! I'm going to go check out some more of your videos now.
What a treat to see Joel appear on this channel. Such a great teacher.
Just want to +1 all the comments noting a great a teacher this guy is. I'd love to see more of his content.
Did you just say D-I-Wires? Lol. Hey, I hadn’t planned to, but I just watched this whole thing. I was mesmerized, I guess! Joe did a nice job explaining as he went along. 👍
DIY'ers, bro. They both sound the same.
Really great tips - especially the one where he drills behind the baseboard and uses the trimmer cord as a flag.
A lot of really good tips. Thanks for knowing that if the cable is clamped to the J box, the nearest staple can be up to 12” away. Inspectors around here want 8” regardless. Also thanks for pointing out that metal boxes need to be bonded to the equipment ground.
In my locale, since the hole that was drilled upward from the basement (at 10:50) penetrated another floor, I would be required to use a fire sealant. I personally like to use 3M’s Fire Barrier Sealant CP 25WB+. Just put it in a caulking gun and squeeze into the hole until sealed. Also, in my locale, tamper resistant receptacles are required.
Just a personal thing, on the right side of the J box at 16:27, I would have used another connector so there is one cable per connector.
Good stuff and thanks for the feedback!
You guys both are good at explaining shit. I wish I had more friends like you around when I get nervous on a new job. Actually I just need better friends lol
Really good video. Not using specialty tools and not wrapping connections with tape is great advice and very helpful. Maybe suggesting a small fire extinguisher be part of the tool list? Thanks.
Thanks for the feedback 👍
I love Jefferson Electric! Great energy, knowledgeable, and explains everything in a good way!
Nice! One of the good ones for sure 👍
A great step by step how to video on something I have to do right now in my just bought home. Thanks so much!
Happy we could help, best of luck on your project!
One thing I've learned about cutting plaster walls using a carbide multi tool attachment (used for grout) it cut through the plaster just as fast and it won't dull.
I've seen several videos on this and yours is the best so far
I would suggest poking a hole in each corner and the center of the tracing of the box,
Reason being - to check clearance of where your stud is, make sure you have full depth clearance, and to verify you have no obstructions
that is why he moved the bit side to side, which he explained
Always cut the horizontal cut first
Thank you gentlemen for this nice and clean work.
The one potential violation I saw was a kitchen circuit being used for another receptacle elsewhere. If it's a 20 amp circuit presumably it's a small appliance branch circuit, and those aren't supposed to have any other outlets. Don't recall anything being said to the contrary.
Lots of good best practices on this walk through video!... noticed mention of the question of why using a15amp receptacle paired with 20amp circuit (at 4:00), but no further explanation(?)
Jim, sorry for the slow response. The NEC table 210.21(B)(3) and 210.24 allow for the 15 amp receptacle on a 20 amp circuit. Short answer is-it's code.
Wow this is great! Im always having to do oldwork and your approach is fantastic!! very helpful!
Sadly, NOT really helpful at present because all my work is on the second and third floors.. :(
Why not cap that black conductor and what’s your feeling about Wago connectors instead of wire nuts ? Great instruction , really well spoken .
Thanks Jeremy! I looked back at this and laughed at myself. I intend to cap all conductors and would cap this one too if given the chance. Wagos are great. We use them for specific applications, but they're more expensive and only allow a specific number of conductors = less flexible.
Great video. Clear explanations too. I have a few outlet junction boxes that are loose and need to be replaced.
I like the wall paper in your client’s home…Thank you for the instructional video, exactly what I was looking for before adding an outlet in my house….though at my location we’re using bx metal clad wiring
Man I wish the US could go to all robertson screws. I love them. Never seen them on outlet before!
They are on pretty much all outlets over the past several decades. Just remember it is a #1 Robertson as opposed to a #2 Robertson which you might be a little more used to for deck screws or general purpose screws.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs OH wow you're right! I just looked at the switches and outlets I bought and sure enough there it is! Now if we can get all the other screws this way I'd be happy lol.
EXCELLENT VIDEO ! Great presentation. One comment though. That junction box in the basement might be OK in the State you are in, but up here in Ontario (Canada) we would need to make sure that the grounds are also tied the metal box as well... I think Scott that you also mentioned this tip in one of your own subsequent videos. Further, not a problem in that house as the basement ceiling is all open, but again up here a small qualifier... we're not allowed to cover up junction boxes. So up here, if that basement was ever to get a ceiling, that junction box would have to be horizontal and the cover would have to be openable if the ceiling was there...
Excellent presentation, good details. Electrical code does not address drilling through structural members other than requiring nail plates if you’re too close to the edge, however the building code does. Most inspectors will want to see that a structural engineer has provided a size and location plan for drilling joists. It is usually cheapest to not drill the joists. Just run across the edges and use a protector board nailed alongside if subject to damage.
If you're going to expend the effort, put in a quad outlet. Use a deep box, if possible, because modern devices such as USB outlets, GFCI outlets, and smart switches are quite deep.
Sure Karen...
Awesome video - this is a great resource/tool for folks. Much appreciated!
Thanks Jeff!
What an amazing professional.
Bro... I really enjoy your videos always.. I learn so much from your content. Thanks.
I had a 1920 house had a 3 foot foundation which made outlet additions a conduit project. Always use an oscillating tool in plaster.
Super interesting, well done video! Watched out of curiosity.
Bro, you should be an instructor! Great job explaining this electrical stuff ⚡
One of the better videos with code requirements explained, professional work, and proper tools used that I have seen. Except all the loose Romex hanging behind you in the video, obviously you didn't install them. I wish you had explained the 12/3 Romex with two circuits a little better for the phasing at the panel. As so many do it yourself install them on the same phase using a twin or wafers and eventually burn the neutral wire. Two pole breaker was a nice touch. Also if you had added somewhere in the video that each State has slightly adjusted or stricter codes and to check with the local AHJ. As New Mexico does not allow 15a receptacles on 20amp circuits. Texas requires State licenses and does not allow homeowners to perform electrical work, except change light bulbs. And don't forget the fire sealant as required by IRC 302.11(4).
Highly doubt New Mexico only requires 20 amp receptacles on branch circuits. The reason for that is the manufacturer. Manufacturers have posted on the 15 amp devices that they are approved for 20 amp pass through. If the receptacle if the sole device on a 20 amp branch circuit, then a 20 amp receptacle must be used.
For commercial/industrial applications all receptacles must be 20 amp.
Good word John. Thanks for contributing.
Color coded jacket on the 20 Amp cable.
Wonderful instructions.
Thank you.
Good informative video!! Just one questions - why doesn’t that single black wire have no juice ? Only thing I’m lost on. Thanks
Fantastic step by step!!....thank you Jeff ....I just subscribed to your channel...also, thank you Everyday Home Repairs for your content!
Great video. Are you using a common trip circuit breaker to make the shared neutrals safe? If not, how are the neutrals wired to make it safe with hot current from 2 different circuits?
Well if I had a basement (I don't, can't get under the house or up in the attic space either) this may have been educational. Care to do another video with a situation like that?
Prudence - the steps are the same. You're just doing it on your back on dirt and it's major pain.
@@dalesworld1308 Wish I had access to the "dirt", but getting under the house is also a major pain, 200 year old farmhouse, with additions put on here and there, blocked access under the room I'd want the outlets in. Makes me want to tear out drywall and run the wiring through conduit instead. :(
@@dear_prudence surface conduit and boxes
Tear off the drywall. Drywall is cheap and it's not that hard to patch it up.
When drilling holes to run wire through framing or joists, shouldn't there be some sort of metal protective layer protecting the wires in case some screws a screw through the wood?
Dang. Great video. If I didn't have to do like 8 of these I'd do it myself!
😂, yeah that might be a bit of a bigger job but at least you know what to expect now.
Hello, I have a QQ on a simple connection:
I have a wire coming from the electric panel to power a light switch and a receptacle.
1-Does this wire has to go to the light switch first, then "split" to go to the lamp and to the receptacle? or
2-The wire can go from the panel to the receptacle, then to the light switch, then to the light?
The receptacle is closer to the panel than the light switch. Basically I have, 1-The panel --> 2-The receptacle --> 3-The switch.
Thank you in advance for your help.
Good advice. All around good video. Now, show us diy'ers how to add outlets and switches to our 1930's, 3 and 4 level homes. Thanks and be safe.
Great video. Very informative and professional. The only thing I would add is to drill up the wall from the basement before cutting the hole for the box upstairs. Then push a stout wire or a fish tape up the wall to make sure there are no obstructions in the wall that would prevent fishing the new cable.
The voice of experience. Good word!
Very good video, well demonstrated.
This is a good video, though I would have wired that new duplex to a new breaker in the main breaker box, instead of the junction box. It's a little more Romex, and the cost of a new breaker, but in the end you will have more "control" over knowing what outlets and rooms are on which breakers in your main box. You will also not have to concern yourself with the amperage already being used for the junction box, because it is a new circuit. Another "good" thing, is that you can also add an outdoor GFI (with outlet covers) to this breaker on the outside of this wall (if you choose), and/or a second duplex outlet further down the wall upstairs, because the outlet you added up stairs is probably only for a lamp, TV, or vacuum cleaner (which is higher amperage, but only run for a few moments at a time), or some other low amperage electrical use. I did this in my home for a few new indoor outlets I added, with new breakers, so that I have more easy access to power outdoors for Christmas lights and/or power tools...etc.....Peace!
Any new outlet is required to have arc fault circuit interrupter protection. The breakers are around $50.
This is an excellent video, thank you! However, the background noise throughout the upstairs part is really distracting. Keep up the good work!
Yeah, that video had a pretty busy job site for sure. Thanks for the support 👍
DIY 20, would like info on switches on and off for different type lights and ceiling fans .
An excellent "show me" video.
Thanks for the tutorial. Much appreciated.
You bet!
Generally, a good informative explanation, although really only applicable to homes with a basement. Depending on which edition of the National Electrical Code is enforced, some important code requirements, for this installation, should have been mentioned that are required in most areas of the US.
awesome info and presentation
It is not required, but I use plastic NM connectors in metal J-boxes and panels, they are quicker to install and no chance of harming romex cable. No pre-twisting of wires is required if you use the proper wire nut. Wagos are UL listed and could also be used. Russ-Journeyman, 26 years in the Trade
I all depends how you was trained has a apprentice and then to a electrician. Twisted wires with pliers is the best way has you know you did it correctly. Wagos are the best!
Instructor extraordinaire. Thanks…
This guy is so cool. Thank you!
Sometimes, as I found out in the 1940s house I owned, the lathe is not wood but a metal grid. That makes things extra fun.
Great video! Highly instructive. Thanks!
Wow Man! awesome work detailed video.
Great video..thanks.
Question….does removing the plastic tab completely violate code when you insert the wire into the plastic box?
Yes, that would be frowned upon.
That's an exterior wall? Are you required to insulate around the box for air seal?
I have to do this where a tiled wall meets directly with a tiled floor. the wall tile runs about 3 feet up and meets a plaster wall. that plaster wall is where the outlet will be. no trim to remove to get behind. Ill be coming up form a basement but i dont know how to get measurements for where to drill in the basement to land inside the wall above since i cant pierce any of the floor or wall tile to set a marker
'Theoreticaly' that Neutral can carry 40 Amps. I heard you're mentioning that the load is calculated and taken care of. However, sharing a current carrying conductor is not justifiable. Unless the 2 phases/hot are connected on separate phase. Red, black on separate phases. Algebraic sum of current meeting at a junction is zero...it goes on.
I have question for you. I used the new blue outlet boxes with the blue taps , that you tighten with screws and the taps tighten to drywall. I really do not like them. I tighten as far as it’s goes. But when I plug things into it and pull the plugs out , by the plug. I almost pulled the whole outlet, out the wall. How do you stop this from happening?
When this happens it usually means the tabs were not able to actually secure behind the drywall/Plaster. This old work box specifically has a larger gap and works well for thicker plaster walls amzn.to/30FUKec . Might be worth a try.
@@EverydayHomeRepairs no, this just was drywall., I made sure the taps were right. But the new outlets are so tight when you plug something into it. When you pull the plugs out. Until the outlet gets use a lot, it becomes alright. I like the idea, that you can put outlet boxes anywhere. I was ready to put a screw into the 4 holes next to the taps
What book would you recommend on basic wiring? Great video
Good job. Thank you.
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Nice video. But I was hoping you would explain why you installed a 15A outlet on a 20A circuit. I'm no electrician, but I'd never do that.
Wish I'd watched this before I attempted same using a standard metal box. The plastic ones are so much easier to fit nicely on a finished wall.
11:02 - What's that brown wire? How do do you know where it is inside the wall? Because it looks like the drill hits it when you drill up beside it.
7:00 - Also you should take a level to it to make sure it's plumb before marking.
This is great, but I don't have a basement... I need to learn how to do this under a window like in this video, in a slab home where the attic access is too small...
If there is a video how to do that, let me know, please? I am expecting to have to ruin the wallpaper, and drill loads of holes...
At 11:03 I hope the lamp cord next to where you are drilling is for speakers or doorbell. Don't laugh I know a guy who wired his whole house with lamp cord that was 30 yrs ago and the place hasn't burned down yet. Something else I noticed, I was always told not to put a receptacle underneath a window. Don't know if that is code or not.
Wall space under windows is counted as part of the requirements so sometimes it is unavoidable. When possible the outlets can be spaced so they are to the side of the window but not actually under it. There could be local requirements or inspectors who consider it a wet location so those requirements would need to be met. Otherwise it shouldn't be an issue.
Good instructional video
7:57 this tool first showed up on as seen on TV or an overnight infomercial. Years ago
A neodymium magnet with a hole and a string attached can find nails in wall studs in plaster walls.
genius! I just adopted the magnet method. Thanks for your contribution!
Well done!!
Extremely good!
Great video, great tips!!!🤙🏼💪🏼
Did not see any insulation or air sealing around the new box. Was thiscdone, but not shown as this was focusing on the electrical work?
Did you drill the holes in the joists at the mid point?
I have a floor outlet under my upstairs bed but no outlets on the wall behind the bed. How do I make wall outlets from the floor outlet. I currently have to run extension cords to both sides of the bed.
Great video but I got lost when you tried to explain about the red and black wires (3 in 1) another line, one with the wire nut and the other without it and then you pushed them in the back?....
Instead of drilling through all of those joists, can't you secure a 2x4 perpendicular to the joists and then staple the wire to it? That way no one can hang anything off of the wire?
I love that he didn't bull shit us with the pull a permit and have the work inspected.
Looking for opinions on a taboo subject. I hear people are installing smart switches that require neutral wire, but are connecting the switches white wire to the ground in the box! I would say it would work just fine but then sone current would then be flowing through the ground wire which obviously is NOT ok. Thoughts?
Use Radio Ra2 by Lutron. The neutral is only needed at the load switch. But one would be the wiser if they wired their house as if no lighting control is going in. Times are tough and products are costing more. And if a home is wired for lighting control and not standard switching then that person is in a world of hurt.
As for tying the neutral and ground together, ya that's illegal. People commonly do that because they don't know what they're doing or didn't have enough wiring and didn't care about being safe.
Okay, now show us how to install on 1st floor on concrete slab without a basement, or maybe 2nd floor.
helpful and efficient. Thx
Excellent video
Some areas 18” minimum above finished floor, so can’t match to existing height?
Nice video!
nice one Scott
This is great and all, but I really need to know how to do this on a second story floor please if we could get a video like this except that you dont have immediate basement access because you’re higher up
Yeah, you're screwed
nicely done
Thanks 👍
Why are you not using a 20 amp rated receptacle??
Because it isn’t required by code. You don’t see many 20 amp plugs in residential.
I’m confused why you drilled 2” in behind red pilot wire instead of in front of it to run wire behind wall
Interesting background sounds that we heard on this one. Clearly, other work was going on in the house while this was being filmed. Which leads me to wonder what some of that other work was, and what some of those sounds were from?
Just a few other things going on which made this one a bit harder to capture 😁
@@EverydayHomeRepairs We know that was your production crew setting up equipment for the next video 😄
@@REXXSEVEN Exactly 😉
I am very, VERY much a novice. I have a wall that has a light switch on it. Is it possible to put a new outlet on that wall and draw power from the light switch to get power? and if so, how?
Slow to respond. You've probably already solved your problem. The simple answer is "yes"! Make sure to grab a hot and neutral and ground from the switch for your outlet. If the room you're adding an outlet to is a bathroom, kitchen, dining room, pantry, breakfast room, laundry room then lighting and outlets would need to be separated, generally. Follow our channel for more info. This video is similar to your situation th-cam.com/video/jSWMWSYYYFM/w-d-xo.html
excellent instruction
Thx!
I am curious, your work is great ,however when you stated that at 18 amps of current for the circuit you are pulling would be okay for the 20 amp circuit. Please double check this , breakers are rated at 80% of the breaker rating . In other works ,a 20 Amp breaker will trip if the load exceeds 16 amps. NEMA did this so you would not run into the problem you have with the old plug fuses ! The Edison base fuse would let you put a 30 amp fuse where a 15 amp should go !
A 20 amp breaker will cover 18 amps without tripping. The 80% is for the load allowed.
The NEC code requirement has nothing to do with plug fuses, if that’s what’s being referenced. Overcurrent protective devices can have their operation affected by heat buildup within the circuit. NEC partially addressed this by requiring load calculations to utilize 125% for continuous loads. By definition, very few loads would be considered continuous (3 hours or more without shutting off) in a house. Meaning, 18A on a 20A circuit is fine based on what was mentioned in the example. Disclaimer: this is based on NFPA 70/NEC and local codes may dictate otherwise.
Confusion on nomenclature: The existing red wire is a "current carrying" wire, well aren't they all current carrying wires? However, it seems that the red wire would be a power or power "source" wire or in the old vernacular, a HOT wire.
:-) current carrying is terminology including hots and neutrals, but excluding grounds, since they're not current carrying under normal operation. Thanks for commenting!
Use a magnet to find studs where they nailed the lathe boards up to the studs.