A tip for you: Don't remove the coil of Romex from its plastic packaging, as you did in the video. Instead, leave it in the plastic and pull cable from the center of the coil. This keeps the coil neat and untangled.
Yeah, I had it in there for a months but it kept coming out so I just gave up eventually. I'm just waiting for the first big knot to show up and I'll have to spend an hour figuring it out. Fingers crossed that doesn't happen.
This is a personal choice. I’ve had very little problem with coils of wire not in the plastic package. In fact, my preferred method is to remove the plastic package and roll out the wire smoothly from the outside as opposed to pulling from the inside where it will twist with every turn. My preference is that the wires look smooth as they are stapled to the ceiling or pulled through holes in floor joists.
For #3 you can use a California drywall patch to patch the drywall and not have to deal with sticks. I learned how to do that recently and I'll never make small patches with wood supports again.
Some irony here... one of the first of your videos I watched covered (a) why to NOT use the wire nuts you have in this video and (b) the auto stripper. Aside from that... yet another amazing video. If I could give you two thumbs up I would.
Back before the magnate thing I used to use very small chain. Hook on wire in attic, tape it so it wouldn't get caught on something and then used a piece of wire, made a hook on the end of it to hook on to the chain down at the box. Didn't have to take box out, just made another hole in top of box and fished it in. Made sure I was behind or in front of insulation. You could tell if it was going down by shaking the chain and by the weight of the chain. It took a bit of skill but that's all we had back in the day.
That applies to new installs. Here's what 334.30 states: Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable: (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable. (2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4 1 ⁄2 ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece of electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are within an accessible ceiling
How is this done with brick, block, or cement walls? I’m imagining just grinding out a massive channel to run the wires and having to patch and paint after. There is also an absurd mix of poorly done surface mounts (some are grounded) and the original cloth wire two prong outlets. How do I shove it all into the wall AND add ground to the older circuits? Is it possible without hiring a pro?
another good trick to know where to drill in the attic .. is to take a coat hanger and straighten it out , then use a drill and put one end in the drill and go up next to the wall where you need to drill and drill that coat hanger up in the ceiling next to the wall , when you go up in the attic you can see the two feet of coat hanger sticking up through the insulation ,, it leave such a tiny hole when done
Very true. I actually filmed all of that for this video (had the hanger chucked in the drill) but decided to cut it out since the video was so long already and I figure most folks will be able to use the measuring method, but I'm always on the fence about how much to leave in or take out.
I am grateful for all of your clear, detailed videos, especially when you offer up a few options since I always expect my situation to not be identical to the lone approach presented. If I'm honest, I sometimes feel overwhelmed by a "how in the heck will I do X without cutting 17 holes in the drywall?!" fear and your approaches are well thought out and minimally disruptive and counter that for me, so thank you! (Also, I've been hacking away at electrical stuff in my house for a couple decades and until you casually mentioned it, it never dawned on me how pigtailing in new outlets keeps the circuit working even if that outlet fails! Thanks, too, for sharing that!)
As a concerned eye doctor, may I ask why you do not wear eye protection when drilling or working with your multitool? I am not trying to troll. Genuinely curious. Nice video otherwise.
You really are so good at this. Your trade methods and craftsmanship are excellent, your scripting and video techniques and editing are also exceptional and your presentation is so good in every way- appearance, verbal delivery and manner; you’re just very relatable- and to a broad audience, I believe. Thanks for doing what you do.
I concur. I have been doing elec. troubleshooting for many years. 80% of home fires are due to overloaded AC ckts. The same "electricians" who use #14 wire are the same ones who never do the math in regards to how loaded a given circuit is.Whenever I come across #14 being used, I very often see that they have overloaded the circuits......
Yeah, unfortunately brick, stone and concrete walls are a whole different beast. There's nothing nearly as simple for those types of walls, sadly. Drywall has its downsides but it certainly has its upsides as well.
With method #1, be careful about double bottom plates (3” high) on your wall, especially when using standard 3 1/4” baseboard. You would not have enough space to drill through the studs. You might be able to get away with it if the baseboard has been raised off the floor 1/2” to account for carpet thickness, but otherwise it would not work. This would be an issue in exterior walls on most wood framed homes, but could even come up in some interior walls. In Florida, for example, many homes are built on concrete slabs, with double bottom plates on all interior walls - the bottom bottom plate being pressure treated. They have concrete block exterior walls and no basements, so the only way to add an outlet like this without cutting and patching drywall would be to go up into the attic.
Commercial plates may only be a buck or two more, but when a regular outlet costs you less than a buck, that's double the materials price if you're fitting an entire house.
If there was a problem with the power, he would not need to pull the wall back off since the cable is already run from outlet to outlet. The problem would lie within the outlet box itself.
I agree. I always do all the connections first and test before putting the receptacles in the box. Once everything tests ok, I assemble the receptacles and do a final test before putting the covers.
2 ปีที่แล้ว +4
I like this type of videos just to know how things “could have been” because here where I live we don’t use drywall to build walls. We use bricks which makes all these methods inappropriate 😊 But, has I said, nice video 👍🏼
Yeah, the third one was so similar that I decided not to spend too much time rehashing everything. But Call an Electrician is a good option too - they can really save your bacon sometimes!
You can get oversize outlet and switch plates at Lowes and Home Depot to cover "boo-boos" when cutting box holes like in method #2. Glad you showed all 3 methods.Good video. Thanks!
This is a project I want to do as well. Not sure which method I will use. Here in Oklahoma presently it’s 105 degrees and i’m sure my attic is the temperature of the sun, but thank you for this video and information, very well done.
Why do so many people feel uncomfortable saying caulk? They all say caulking. It's just a word.....I enjoy a good caulk joke but when I'm not joking around anymore I still call it caulk.....
I HATE plastic and nylon boxes. When I rise to power, they will be banned. I also HATE 14 gauge wiring. Should use 12 gauge minimum. I would even argue that 10 gauge should be terminated to its own box, then the circuit from it's own box, with 12 be spliced into the 10 gauge. Reduce fire hazards from over heated wires because of overloaded circuits. I also hate all the waste that electricians do. If they need six inches, pull six inches. It's your money though. But when someone hires a contractor, they should be as frugally austere as possible for the customer. Also, it would behoove you to use lever wire nuts, or even the push ins. The wire caps are out dated and not the best way to do it. If you're going to insist on using them, you should twist the wires together first, using lineman's pliers then add the wire cap. And I am one of those to also wrap them in electrical tape, when I used those. I also wrap the push ins. The Wago levers I haven't yet found it necessary to add tape to those. I'm to the point where I just install new outlets as needed. I drill through the floor and run conduit on the outside of the wall, up the wall to location. If I can, I attach a box extender to the box inside the wall, make the connection and just leave the old wiring null and dormant... Being disabled makes it impossible for people like me to get on the floor and up into attics or places where I can not fully stand up.
I've seen wire protect ring that you simply put the wire through the ring and put the ring into hole of the stud. That makes more room for nailing drywall onto the stud.
Did you really say I put the lights on a separate circuit to the sockets, do you normally put them together in America cuz if we did that in Britain, the building regs people would have a heart attack 😅
Yes, historically, general circuits can supply receptacles and lights. Specialized circuits (e.g. kitchen outlets, garbage disposals, etc.) do not feed lights.
I have converted many of my outlets in my house to double outlets for 4 total outlet spots per. I use a sawzall to cut the nails on the original boxes, I just feel cutting nails with the multitool damages the blades too fast
I used a tape measure sent up to the attic to attach the romax cable and my father in law was so amazed that he had never thought of that. It took us 30 min to pull 3 wires so that we could run it to my workshop.
3:25 -this is a good idea most miss. When we moved my parents' house 47 years ago, I wired the basement rooms such at power for lights and outlets were different circuits and the rooms were split so that not all were out at once. It gets very dark in a basement if all go out. Also, if you need to shut off power for work in a room, you still had power close that normal extensions worked for the tools.
You mentioned you can deal with fire blocks. Can you share how to do that? I would like to add an outlet up higher on the wall for a TV, but I am worried about the fire block and not sure how to get through that without creating a patch job.
I would use the cutout for the new receptacle box and try to drill through the fire block from above. Maybe cut out the hole as close as possible to the fire block, but where it will still be concealed by the TV. Keep us posted!
I do the same thing wit our patching. Cut the hole for box in center and then drill left and right. . Then drill through the side of each existing box and run fish tape.
21:03 His Daughter: "WHAT ARE YOU DOING DAD?! WHY AREN'T YOU TAKING YOUR MEDS?!" LRN2DIY: "Don't worry, it's for a TH-cam video. Just a prank bro. I'm still on my meds 😉 "
You can chisel out a small place to accommodate the Romex in front of the stud and then cover it with your nail plate and don't drill a hole in the stud weakening the stud.
Love how initially the outlet was hooked up from New construction WRONG! Garbage electrical inspection should have failed rough inspection. code requires ALL outlets on pigtail connection. You are NEVER allowed to put more the 1 hot, neutral & ground on a outlet unless a switched outlet is in use.
I tried this. It's very clever, but if you have an older house (mine is 60+), your trim may only be half the height. I couldn't get a great angle on the drill, so it was nearly impossible to get the stud hole deep enough so that it was safe from mails. If you are under a window, you may encounter 3 studs in a row, which becomes impossible unless you can insert the drill (tool) parallel. If you are on the 2nd floor, you may also find 4 studs in a row. I will surface mount
You can eliminate worry about the new Romex getting damaged by using Smart Shield (get at Home Depot) instead of nail plates.... in this application, would be perfect!
You skipped how went up to the box. You also skipped critical info at 9:18. You also waste wire for no good reason. :-( 15:06 that sloppy measuring style could bite you someday. At 17:52 you again skipped a stage that people might need to see. Why make videos that have such gaps? You can't assume what people know and don't know.
3:03 "I keep calling it an 'old' outlet. It's really just a 'source' outlet." Ok, I don't think that you are worried about hurting the outlet's feelings by calling it old. 😊 Is your point that it will be upstream from the new receptacle?
Basically, you don’t need stand finder . Remove the moldings cut the drywall and you’re gonna see 2 x 4 under the drywall, then you can do your marks for electric box and cut the drywall run the wires. However thanks for the idea . how to add outlets.
Thank you for your knowledge giving me hope. I don't trust that my wires are safe after my son melted an outlet so bad it blew open the whole side of the outlet. I am afraid that the romex has melted and is exposed at points not seen. This house was built in the early 50's and the wire gauge is larger than 12g and will not wrap around any up-to-date outlets and also there is nothing to work with. No 6" loop. The breaker box I know I need to get an understanding of what breakers handle what amount of amps per breaker so as not to make the same mistake that I think the prior owner(s) have made by overloading a breaker. But to assume that it is at the right amps on this particular breaker I will need to rewire from the box and daisy chain to all the 4 outlets starting with the closet to the breaker and move on to the next. Where would I go when It comes to the threshold of the front door and going from one wall to the next. Can I just disconnect the old wire and leave it in the wall and rewire it along the base bords cutting the sheetrock in the strips as you have done. Please and thank you for giving me some advice and how to get started.
Lol, duh remove the trim😂 my trim is almost twice as high. I'm trying to preserve the wallpaper, but there is one hole opposite from my project. I've used strong magnets to find studs as well.
It’s silly to not use the daisy chain terminals on the outlets. The terminals are right next to each other connected by a solid bar. Using the pigtails introduces a dozen more points of failure. Anything that would destroy the day chain would have to destroy everything in the box. I hope a dozen other people have pointed this out
No. Don't hide power don't hack the base board. This is not to code. And a fire risk. This is why you don't hire an amateur with no electrical education
Great job. I have an old house that still has some ungrounded wiring to replace. I will probably be able to use the baseboard method. Probably will buy one of those Kein wire pullers just in case.
No one else is here from Branzy? Okay just me then…
i did
Me too
Ik
Me😂
I think he accidentally added it
A tip for you: Don't remove the coil of Romex from its plastic packaging, as you did in the video. Instead, leave it in the plastic and pull cable from the center of the coil. This keeps the coil neat and untangled.
Yeah, I had it in there for a months but it kept coming out so I just gave up eventually. I'm just waiting for the first big knot to show up and I'll have to spend an hour figuring it out. Fingers crossed that doesn't happen.
This is a personal choice. I’ve had very little problem with coils of wire not in the plastic package. In fact, my preferred method is to remove the plastic package and roll out the wire smoothly from the outside as opposed to pulling from the inside where it will twist with every turn. My preference is that the wires look smooth as they are stapled to the ceiling or pulled through holes in floor joists.
Yes it works well like that.
Lol horrible tip. Now you have massively twisted wire.
And always wire outlets with 12 AWG.
For #3 you can use a California drywall patch to patch the drywall and not have to deal with sticks. I learned how to do that recently and I'll never make small patches with wood supports again.
Some irony here... one of the first of your videos I watched covered (a) why to NOT use the wire nuts you have in this video and (b) the auto stripper. Aside from that... yet another amazing video. If I could give you two thumbs up I would.
Back before the magnate thing I used to use very small chain. Hook on wire in attic, tape it so it wouldn't get caught on something and then used a piece of wire, made a hook on the end of it to hook on to the chain down at the box. Didn't have to take box out, just made another hole in top of box and fished it in. Made sure I was behind or in front of insulation. You could tell if it was going down by shaking the chain and by the weight of the chain. It took a bit of skill but that's all we had back in the day.
I didn't know a stud finder like the one you have existed. I absolutely hate the typical ones where they don't illuminate the entire stud all at once.
Great video. I’ve never seen method 1 before. Going to try that next time. And I definitely need to get me one of those magnets.
Is there not a code that you have to secure the romax to the stud within so many inches above/below the outlet?
That applies to new installs. Here's what 334.30 states: Unsupported Cables. Nonmetallic-sheathed cable shall be permitted to be unsupported where the cable: (1) Is fished between access points through concealed spaces in finished buildings or structures and supporting is impracticable.
(2) Is not more than 1.4 m (4 1 ⁄2 ft) from the last point of cable support to the point of connection to a luminaire or other piece of electrical equipment and the cable and point of connection are within an accessible ceiling
@@LRN2DIY Thank you
Awesome video. Love the 1 1/2 tape trick!
How is this done with brick, block, or cement walls? I’m imagining just grinding out a massive channel to run the wires and having to patch and paint after. There is also an absurd mix of poorly done surface mounts (some are grounded) and the original cloth wire two prong outlets. How do I shove it all into the wall AND add ground to the older circuits? Is it possible without hiring a pro?
Nice video!
why is this on branzys playlist ?
Can you drop a link on tools that you have?
Did you use Brad nails into the nail plat?
No, the brad nails can go above or below the nail plate though. The nail plate tacks directly into the stud using it's own little spikes.
Look up "old work J box." You won't have to put your new outlet right next to a stud.
Anyone else from branzys playlist
this is in branzys playlist
Omg I saw it there too and I was so confused 😭
Me too😂
Same
The look of confusion on my face must of confused my fbi agent watching me cause it then crashed my device.
Weird right
This is on the who is branzy playlist
Yea
Yup
@@nuzzy1733 lol yea
I came from branzy
Me too!
Yes
I just use one of those Stickers that look like an outlet. Much easier... 🤣
😂
Thank you Branzy very cool!
This ain’t branzy sumhow
@@justiceforjack lol yea its- interesting
why is this in a branzy playlist????????????
Right???
Ikr
another good trick to know where to drill in the attic .. is to take a coat hanger and straighten it out , then use a drill and put one end in the drill and go up next to the wall where you need to drill and drill that coat hanger up in the ceiling next to the wall , when you go up in the attic you can see the two feet of coat hanger sticking up through the insulation ,, it leave such a tiny hole when done
Very true. I actually filmed all of that for this video (had the hanger chucked in the drill) but decided to cut it out since the video was so long already and I figure most folks will be able to use the measuring method, but I'm always on the fence about how much to leave in or take out.
Who’s here because this is in a branzy playlist?
Me I was so confused
@@Zack-nt7dz So was I lol
Me
I am grateful for all of your clear, detailed videos, especially when you offer up a few options since I always expect my situation to not be identical to the lone approach presented. If I'm honest, I sometimes feel overwhelmed by a "how in the heck will I do X without cutting 17 holes in the drywall?!" fear and your approaches are well thought out and minimally disruptive and counter that for me, so thank you! (Also, I've been hacking away at electrical stuff in my house for a couple decades and until you casually mentioned it, it never dawned on me how pigtailing in new outlets keeps the circuit working even if that outlet fails! Thanks, too, for sharing that!)
Finally, someone did an outlet add that is not the easy directly above outlet add
Who got here from branzy's playlist
👇
Me ✋
Was excited about this until I realized my interior designer wife removed all our base boards 😅
Im...not sure why this video is in...branzy's playlist...
As a concerned eye doctor, may I ask why you do not wear eye protection when drilling or working with your multitool? I am not trying to troll. Genuinely curious. Nice video otherwise.
im not the only one that got here from branzys playlist right??
You really are so good at this. Your trade methods and craftsmanship are excellent, your scripting and video techniques and editing are also exceptional and your presentation is so good in every way- appearance, verbal delivery and manner; you’re just very relatable- and to a broad audience, I believe. Thanks for doing what you do.
Wow - that's so very kind of you! Thank you so much and have an awesome day!
Why is this in branzy playlist
Wish i woulda found this video a week ago. Luckily for me i shiplapped the wall i added outlets on lol
"i'll head up into the attic which is approximately 4621 degrees" 😂😂
I am glad you covered the options together - made for a comprehensive video. Thank you.
Drop cloth?
One note: why 14/2? I would only use 14 for lighting, you should use 12/2!
I concur. I have been doing elec. troubleshooting for many years. 80% of home fires are due to overloaded AC ckts. The same "electricians" who use #14 wire are the same ones who never do the math in regards to how loaded a given circuit is.Whenever I come across #14 being used, I very often see that they have overloaded the circuits......
What about brick walls?
Explosive :)
Yeah… that’s another story altogether 😊
Yeah, unfortunately brick, stone and concrete walls are a whole different beast. There's nothing nearly as simple for those types of walls, sadly. Drywall has its downsides but it certainly has its upsides as well.
Props for showing your "ooops!" and not cutting that out, and just moving to a different outlet and starting over.
Great info. Just a bit of advice, remove that huge conductor on your finger when working with electricity.
With method #1, be careful about double bottom plates (3” high) on your wall, especially when using standard 3 1/4” baseboard. You would not have enough space to drill through the studs. You might be able to get away with it if the baseboard has been raised off the floor 1/2” to account for carpet thickness, but otherwise it would not work. This would be an issue in exterior walls on most wood framed homes, but could even come up in some interior walls. In Florida, for example, many homes are built on concrete slabs, with double bottom plates on all interior walls - the bottom bottom plate being pressure treated. They have concrete block exterior walls and no basements, so the only way to add an outlet like this without cutting and patching drywall would be to go up into the attic.
Commercial plates may only be a buck or two more, but when a regular outlet costs you less than a buck, that's double the materials price if you're fitting an entire house.
Caution when drilling near the bottom of the stud, drilling into a nail could be an issue.
Absolutely helpful first way!! Wouldn’t it be better to test power before putting wall back together? My luck I would have to take off twice 😂
If there was a problem with the power, he would not need to pull the wall back off since the cable is already run from outlet to outlet. The problem would lie within the outlet box itself.
I agree. I always do all the connections first and test before putting the receptacles in the box. Once everything tests ok, I assemble the receptacles and do a final test before putting the covers.
I like this type of videos just to know how things “could have been” because here where I live we don’t use drywall to build walls. We use bricks which makes all these methods inappropriate 😊
But, has I said, nice video 👍🏼
Pro tip. Shorter wires and longer pigtails will let the wires fold easier into the box
yuck. you can't possibly be suggesting cutting the wires short...
Well, definitely longer pigtails. Want 6 inches at least on those, too.
Once we got to only 3 min left in the video, I thought the third method would be... *Call an Electrician!!!*
Yeah, the third one was so similar that I decided not to spend too much time rehashing everything. But Call an Electrician is a good option too - they can really save your bacon sometimes!
Don’t u use 12 gauge wire for plugs not 14.?
14 is for 15A, 12 is for 20A you can go larger when I comes to wire not smaller than the supplied amperage.
You can get oversize outlet and switch plates at Lowes and Home Depot to cover "boo-boos" when cutting box holes like in method #2. Glad you showed all 3 methods.Good video. Thanks!
This is a project I want to do as well. Not sure which method I will use. Here in Oklahoma presently it’s 105 degrees and i’m sure my attic is the temperature of the sun, but thank you for this video and information, very well done.
Thanks and best of luck on yours! The attic was insanely hot and definitely the worst part of this project but my timing was definitely not the best.
Why do so many people feel uncomfortable saying caulk? They all say caulking. It's just a word.....I enjoy a good caulk joke but when I'm not joking around anymore I still call it caulk.....
I HATE plastic and nylon boxes. When I rise to power, they will be banned. I also HATE 14 gauge wiring. Should use 12 gauge minimum. I would even argue that 10 gauge should be terminated to its own box, then the circuit from it's own box, with 12 be spliced into the 10 gauge. Reduce fire hazards from over heated wires because of overloaded circuits.
I also hate all the waste that electricians do. If they need six inches, pull six inches. It's your money though. But when someone hires a contractor, they should be as frugally austere as possible for the customer.
Also, it would behoove you to use lever wire nuts, or even the push ins. The wire caps are out dated and not the best way to do it. If you're going to insist on using them, you should twist the wires together first, using lineman's pliers then add the wire cap. And I am one of those to also wrap them in electrical tape, when I used those. I also wrap the push ins. The Wago levers I haven't yet found it necessary to add tape to those.
I'm to the point where I just install new outlets as needed. I drill through the floor and run conduit on the outside of the wall, up the wall to location. If I can, I attach a box extender to the box inside the wall, make the connection and just leave the old wiring null and dormant... Being disabled makes it impossible for people like me to get on the floor and up into attics or places where I can not fully stand up.
Wait you never covered what to do about the horizontal fire blocks 😢
I've seen wire protect ring that you simply put the wire through the ring and put the ring into hole of the stud. That makes more room for nailing drywall onto the stud.
Drop a chain down the box then attach it to the romex to pull it up through the box, it makes it super easy.
Did you really say I put the lights on a separate circuit to the sockets, do you normally put them together in America cuz if we did that in Britain, the building regs people would have a heart attack 😅
Yes, historically, general circuits can supply receptacles and lights. Specialized circuits (e.g. kitchen outlets, garbage disposals, etc.) do not feed lights.
I have converted many of my outlets in my house to double outlets for 4 total outlet spots per. I use a sawzall to cut the nails on the original boxes, I just feel cutting nails with the multitool damages the blades too fast
I just came from a Brady vid :I
I used a tape measure sent up to the attic to attach the romax cable and my father in law was so amazed that he had never thought of that. It took us 30 min to pull 3 wires so that we could run it to my workshop.
Cool idea thanks for sharing
When it comes to combining 3 or 4 wires, wago connectors are sooooo much nicer to use
3:25 -this is a good idea most miss. When we moved my parents' house 47 years ago, I wired the basement rooms such at power for lights and outlets were different circuits and the rooms were split so that not all were out at once. It gets very dark in a basement if all go out. Also, if you need to shut off power for work in a room, you still had power close that normal extensions worked for the tools.
Also laying a live cable in a pvc/metal pipe all the way around every room. Saves you the headache of using a source outlet
The magnetic wire puller is interesting, but i usually use a fiberglass rod set to pull from attic or basement, especially with insulation.
I use a piece of #6 ground wire, it will punch right through an insulated wall then tape your romex to it.
You mentioned you can deal with fire blocks. Can you share how to do that? I would like to add an outlet up higher on the wall for a TV, but I am worried about the fire block and not sure how to get through that without creating a patch job.
I would use the cutout for the new receptacle box and try to drill through the fire block from above. Maybe cut out the hole as close as possible to the fire block, but where it will still be concealed by the TV. Keep us posted!
Should have measured twice on the second one... :)
I used a Right Angle drill adapter in a tight spot between studs. Worked perfectly with my 6 inch Speed Bit.
Good call! I actually have one but didn't think to use it.
Why Is This In Branzys Who’s Is This Branzy Guy Find Out Playlist
Idk lol was so confused
Outlets now must be on Arcflash breakers per Code and lighting does not need to be. Lighting can be on a regular (cheaper) breaker.
I do the same thing wit our patching. Cut the hole for box in center and then drill left and right. . Then drill through the side of each existing box and run fish tape.
21:03
His Daughter: "WHAT ARE YOU DOING DAD?! WHY AREN'T YOU TAKING YOUR MEDS?!"
LRN2DIY: "Don't worry, it's for a TH-cam video. Just a prank bro. I'm still on my meds 😉 "
You can chisel out a small place to accommodate the Romex in front of the stud and then cover it with your nail plate and don't drill a hole in the stud weakening the stud.
Love how initially the outlet was hooked up from New construction WRONG! Garbage electrical inspection should have failed rough inspection. code requires ALL outlets on pigtail connection. You are NEVER allowed to put more the 1 hot, neutral & ground on a outlet unless a switched outlet is in use.
I tried this. It's very clever, but if you have an older house (mine is 60+), your trim may only be half the height. I couldn't get a great angle on the drill, so it was nearly impossible to get the stud hole deep enough so that it was safe from mails.
If you are under a window, you may encounter 3 studs in a row, which becomes impossible unless you can insert the drill (tool) parallel.
If you are on the 2nd floor, you may also find 4 studs in a row.
I will surface mount
You can eliminate worry about the new Romex getting damaged by using Smart Shield (get at Home Depot) instead of nail plates.... in this application, would be perfect!
14 awg for home...kind of small. I'm in NYC and it's illegal to use 14. Only 12 awg. 14, you might ending burning your house down.
You skipped how went up to the box. You also skipped critical info at 9:18. You also waste wire for no good reason. :-(
15:06 that sloppy measuring style could bite you someday. At 17:52 you again skipped a stage that people might need to see. Why make videos that have such gaps? You can't assume what people know and don't know.
why am I watching this? In my country all houses are made of concrete. I can't use most of these knowledge. Its also 2:30AM and I should be sleeping.
3:03 "I keep calling it an 'old' outlet. It's really just a 'source' outlet."
Ok, I don't think that you are worried about hurting the outlet's feelings by calling it old. 😊
Is your point that it will be upstream from the new receptacle?
Basically, you don’t need stand finder . Remove the moldings cut the drywall and you’re gonna see 2 x 4 under the drywall, then you can do your marks for electric box and cut the drywall run the wires.
However thanks for the idea . how to add outlets.
I love that you used your tester for correct wiring AFTER you reattached the drywall and baseboard. That's how I would've done it too!
Can’t tell if this is sarcasm. But yeah if the wiring’s wrong it can be fixed in the box so there’s no real reason to test before finishing.
@@manny9323 sometimes. Not always
Lol ...
Hey i need to stud finder the works on rough, very bumpy wall that's lath and plaster? or a method.
Thank you for your knowledge giving me hope. I don't trust that my wires are safe after my son melted an outlet so bad it blew open the whole side of the outlet. I am afraid that the romex has melted and is exposed at points not seen. This house was built in the early 50's and the wire gauge is larger than 12g and will not wrap around any up-to-date outlets and also there is nothing to work with. No 6" loop. The breaker box I know I need to get an understanding of what breakers handle what amount of amps per breaker so as not to make the same mistake that I think the prior owner(s) have made by overloading a breaker. But to assume that it is at the right amps on this particular breaker I will need to rewire from the box and daisy chain to all the 4 outlets starting with the closet to the breaker and move on to the next. Where would I go when It comes to the threshold of the front door and going from one wall to the next. Can I just disconnect the old wire and leave it in the wall and rewire it along the base bords cutting the sheetrock in the strips as you have done. Please and thank you for giving me some advice and how to get started.
Lol, duh remove the trim😂 my trim is almost twice as high. I'm trying to preserve the wallpaper, but there is one hole opposite from my project. I've used strong magnets to find studs as well.
Aren't you adding current draw by extending this outlet? Can you plug in a 1500 watt space heater into the added outlet with no problems?
It’s silly to not use the daisy chain terminals on the outlets. The terminals are right next to each other connected by a solid bar. Using the pigtails introduces a dozen more points of failure. Anything that would destroy the day chain would have to destroy everything in the box. I hope a dozen other people have pointed this out
Thank you very much, very informative, I enjoy watching and learning from your videos. Keep up the great work.
I'm sure you realize by now that fiberglass doesn't soundproof a wall against sound transmission. Mass is the only answer for that.
Why is this in the Branzy Playlist?
Well, doesn't work here in Europe, where walls are typically made of massive concrete or bricks.
I would just go with the industrial look and use metal conduit mounted to the walls to run the wire to a new plug.
In the USA is it not code that lighting (ceiling luminaries) and sockets should be on different circuits and breakers?
Correct.
Love the diagrams!
Thanks! They take longer to create but I learn better that way for sure. I appreciate you mentioning it!
everything looks okay , but I dont get it .. why make holes to pass the wire ????
This has to be the most thoroughly explained, clear and well put together instructional house DIY video I've ever seen.
Don't forget that modifying circuits in almost all areas of the United States requires an electrical permit!
No. Don't hide power don't hack the base board. This is not to code. And a fire risk.
This is why you don't hire an amateur with no electrical education
I just subscribed. Love your video. Straight to the point, very well thought out, very thorough. Thank you.
You use both the Walabot and Franklin? How come you don't use just one of them? Is one better?
Nice trick the first one. FYI Should never wear jewelry doing electrical work.
Great job. I have an old house that still has some ungrounded wiring to replace. I will probably be able to use the baseboard method. Probably will buy one of those Kein wire pullers just in case.
What if there is insulation in the wall behind the drywall? How would i get the Romax from the original outlet to the new location of the outlet?