You have set the high water mark for a technically focused engine dismantle: no annoying music, no contrived drama or fake problems, just great detail and perfect camera angles. Excellent series, excellent value for the BMW community! Thank you. Subscribed
Hello, this has to be best video of disassembling an N63 on TH-cam. Keep up with good work. At this point you can replace piston rings, rod bearings, valve stem seals etc... and engine will be like new again 😂
Amazing video thanks, I'm going to end up doing the same thing this winter, thanks for this video it's going to be a great help. I got a GT 550i with constant misfire, also came with 2 cases full of oil in the trunk!
Hello bro I’m zezo from Saudi Arabia In the past, I had a BMW 740 , and I would become poor because of it every week I go to the workshop. Now I own a Lexus LS, and I thank God for this. I have traveled nearly 200,000 miles without any mechanical faults appearing.
I bought a 2009 BMW 750Li in March 2021, with 60k Miles for $7500. I was aware of the common issues on the N63, but felt like the deal was still a steal. Car was in immaculate condition, just had some engine codes Long story short, it needed the vanos solenoids replaced. Did that & all the engine codes went away, except one timing code. It said "Exhaust Camshaft angle outside limit value" Couldn't figure it out, went to the BMW dealership to see...if they would still warranty the car. Because of the CCP recall & valve stem seals debacle They told me no & that the timing chain is stretched, and proceeded to give me two $20k quotes to fix or replace the engine. I went home downloaded ISTA, scanned the car it said timing chains are fine(yes they lied in my face). So I narrowed it down to a bad Exhaust Camshaft Adjuster/loose bolt Bought an Exhaust Camshaft Adjuster & new bolt for $250 on eBay. Had a BMW master mechanic replace it for $750. And what do you know...the car ran perfect afterwards So yeah I had this same exact problem, and I'm sure many others had...but diagnosed it wrong. Or the dealership lied to them smh. Got me a working 750Li for under $9k 🙂, car currently only has 67k miles
Definitely not the first time a dealer does that. I know most of them won't even do the work, they'll only do engine swaps at this point because there's too much labour involved. Sounds like you got a great deal! This car had the same issue with the loose bolt but there were also some broken pieces of timing chain in the oil pan which is why I continued with the chain replacement anyway, along with replacing all the leaking gaskets and hoses.
Have made progress on getting my N63 out of the car and starting engine tear down. Up to the point were I will be removing vanes valves and cam gears. Does the engine need to be rotated to mount the cam alien tool for removal of the second set of cam gears of bank 2?
Great videos, I have watched all through to the road test. I had one question about the N63, is it possible to change the ting chains without removing the cylinder heads?
It is technically possible. I’ve seen a few people do it online just prying off the timing cover and leaving the oil pan and heads in place. The problem with this IMO is you’ll never get a good seal when putting it back in so it’ll inevitably leak.
Hi dear thanks for video...I have 2015 550 with N63 ..The car had broken cam bolt and jumped timing ..do you think it will bent valve .. What about your car did you had bdnt valve as it jumped timing
Hey bud so it's been min, and i wanted to give you an update. The dissaembly was going smoothy until i broke a headbolt when i tried to remove the cylinder head. It set me back about 2 1/2 months. I just recently got it out with a sledge hammer and chisel, so back on schedule again. I will be posting a video series of the complete process as well. Should have it down to the crank and rod bearings by weds. Question for you where did you find the bearing clearances for this motor? i don't have access to the TIS. I was thinking maybe go to bmw as ask them. also did you measure clearances with the plasti gage? Hope all is well up there in CANADA..
On this video you said “ top camshaft (exhaust) is out of time. The bolt holding the VANOS adjuster on became loose and caused timing to slip. This bolt could have been replaced and engine retimed. Two questions: 1) could this issue cause the engine not to start at all? 2) can I safely assume this engine does not bent valves when the timing slips? Thanks a lot in advance for your time and congrats for the videos!
If the timing slips far enough to cause the engine not to start, then you would definitely have bent valves. I got extremely lucky in this case as it only slipped a little bit, causing a severe misfire but not damaging any components.
Thanks a lot for your reply. My X5 turns over but it does not start. I bought the car as a non-runner. I have spark, fuel pressure but as the car turns over, I get an irregular rythm as the engine turns over. I think the engine's timing is off. Is there any way to find out if some or any valves are bent without disassembling the engine? Also, can the timing chains, guides and sprockets be replaced without removing the engine from the car? Thanks a lot once again for your time and your good disposition. @@bimmer.doctor
Hi, great video @bimmer.doctor My mechanic is telling me there is no upper oil pan in my bmw750li RWD 2010 model. So are upper oil pans only in FWD or AWD? or there are other variants of this engine. I am not auto mechanic nor so technical auto guy. Just watched your video to find issue in my car.
Thank you for the video, it will be quite useful when I my 2012 BMW 750i. Purchase as project and has a very bad knock while running. Drain the engine oil and it smelled like gasoline. Oil fluid quantity drained was about 2.5 gallons. Thinking it might be better to get a donor engine, but that would have it’s unknowns. Paid 2,200 for the car so I may some may be able to get a nice ride with a lot of work?
For 2200$ I think you got a steal... It will definitely take a lot of work, and a few thousand dollars, but I'm sure you could make it work and for a whole lot less than you could buy one. Good luck!
@@bimmer.doctor thank you. My current BMW is a 2002 525i bought through a charity auction, had to do and engine swap on it as the original engine sat for a bit with a oil coolant mixture. Any ferrus item was rusty
These engines are very complex! To change the PS pump for example, you don't need to drop the whole engine, but you do need to drop the whole subframe and support the engine from the top.
This is amazing. Green coolant isn’t helping this situation at all. Plus all the leaks everywhere. My x5 n63 has 115000 on it and is running fantastic! Where are you located? Love to have you build me a new engine when mine goes!
Thank you! Yes, wrong fluids pretty much everywhere in this car. Previous owner had no idea what they were doing. Luckily the bare block, bearings and things are all in great shape. This car only had 82,000km on it... I am from Montreal
Excellent! I’m from Cleveland Ohio so not a far trip! Thanks for the amazing video! The only one this involved on TH-cam. These original N63s need love. The pan valley and oil return block are filled with build up.
@@bimmer.doctor honest to god I will. Truly looking forward to seeing how this finished up. Very few people have the knowledge and know how on these engines where I live.
It was a hose from the power steering pump. I can’t recall exactly where it went but I know that pump also powers the dynamic drive system. Maybe you don’t have that?
@@bimmer.doctor weird on my 2011 x6 50i I have that same copper hole but no bolt or anything attached to it. Thanks Doc for the quick response, I can't seem to find any info on it anywhere.
Impossible to know exactly, but what happens is the turbo oil return housing block leaks in the valley of the engine, and there is a weep hole at the back of the block. Eventually the oil drips down and it can make it look like a rear main seal leak between the engine and transmission. I’ve seen a lot of cases like that. Good news is the parts aren’t that expensive, it’s the labour that costs a lot to get that done…
@@bimmer.doctor Thanks a million, I did the 2 return lines myself recently, they are dry now looks like I need to check the housing now. Thanks for the quick reply - a belated Happy Canada Day from Toronto :)
I have the last question, if the locks on the bank 5-8 do not fit after turning the shaft, is it the fault of the pulled chain? Or a cracked plastic on the top shoe? Because in my case it was cracked and that's why there is slack in the chain.
It could be due to the chain. In my case it was the actual vanos gear that slipped out of time. But if the guide on top is cracked it would probably be time to do them all because they’ll be in similar condition… good luck!
Could this have been fixed without taking the engine out? Yes as you can also first remove the lower oil pan (easy) to check for chain guide debris (most timing problem is due to the guides). Also do a compression (not telling much if u have timing problem) and leak down test on all cylinders to make sure no bent valve. Also look into each cylinder with endoscope camera to check the wall condition. You can then remove the valve cover (easier said than done) of the bank the code tells you to examine more. If all good except the loose bolt on the sprocket, then it should be safe to say u can change the vanos sprocket bolt and engine should run... I see rear main seal and the cover above it are leaking and oil leaking everywhere. That already calls for engine out. Otherwise I would have troubleshot more first. When chain guides are broken (brittle and break off), you have to remove the front timing cover of which u have to remove the cylinder heads (2 bolts thru head cylinder) and upper oil pans (4 bolts thru metal gasket). That means engine out first. Thanks for the excellent 4k videos in such great details. This helps so much when I need to take things apart and put them back together.
Thanks! Yes, technically this can be done with the engine in the car. I did it once on an X6M but honestly if you have the equipment, it's easier just to take it out and work on it outside the car. You spend so much time fighting for room that I wouldn't do it like that again unless I absolutely had no other choice. Hope the series helps you with your project.
I have a bmw 2012 bmw x50i drive project that i have been putting off for sometime now. I a bought a motor for a swap, was even going to pay someone to do it, but i was more intrigued on completing it myself. I really needed a video step by step like this, in case i run into any roadblocks along the way. My original motor has a knock, possibly spun bearing, but no unusual wear or metal content when oil was lab tested. Plan was to drop subframe, and see if possibly replace lower end bearings without dropping the motor, What would you do in my situation? Just swap motor and be done with it or tear apart existing motor and determine root cause.. Also the motor is currently running, so i dont think valves are bent. Also i accidently discovered this channel, i subscribed and love the content!!! big thumbs up from a fellow youtuber..👍
If the car has a knock, you wouldn’t be able to just throw a new set of bearings in it as there is likely some damage to the crank or to the rods themselves. If you already have a replacement motor I would say just replace some of the common leaking coolant hoses and swap that one in! Hopefully this video series is able to help you get it done yourself. Good luck!
@@bimmer.doctor bro you have no idea how helpful this was. Ive been working on cars for 25 years, and im good with most, but this engine is daunting, and i have put it off, because i wasnt sure where to start. Im going to use this as a guide to mine. I have a brand new set of valve stem seals i bought, and debating if i should put those in while the motor is out of the car. Also the replacement engine has been sitting for almost a year,
Hi there, the process is very similar but there are a few differences. This video is of the original N63 whereas your 2014 is an N63TU (technical update).
what an amazing video... i have one question tho....when removing head bolt some say that the order is from 10 to 1...and while mounting from 1 to 10......appreciate your feed back
Hi, great comment. I just reverified the service manual and you are correct! I made a mistake. Removal should be from 10 to 1 and installation from 1 to 10.
Thanks! Yes you can. I’ve done it before but it’s difficult due to the lack of space. Just loosen the heat shields and disconnect from underneath and you should be able to wiggle it through
@@bimmer.doctor I swear I can’t get it out, I can’t get to the lower 8mm external torx at the bottom out because of the tight space. Is there an order you need to remove them? Like bank 1 first then bank 2? In car of course
Depends on what you’re working on. The engine I didn’t have any struggle with but you’ll see in the next episode that suspension components need some extra work to get out!
![[UNCUT] The Loyal Pin ปิ่นภักดิ์ EP.6 (2/4)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GgeGQOP10RQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You have set the high water mark for a technically focused engine dismantle: no annoying music, no contrived drama or fake problems, just great detail and perfect camera angles. Excellent series, excellent value for the BMW community! Thank you. Subscribed
Somebody who knows what he is doing. Pleasure to watch 👍
You have no idea how helpful this video is, thank you for taking the time to record everything step by step
Hello, this has to be best video of disassembling an N63 on TH-cam. Keep up with good work.
At this point you can replace piston rings, rod bearings, valve stem seals etc... and engine will be like new again 😂
You have to be the most particular BMW Tech in planet Earth
well done sir.. all the videos helped alot putting back my n63 engine... except for the cost of some parts...
You run an extremely tidy operation....here you are in pretty cramped conditions and yet you still clean up as you go. Well done .
I have owned 3 M cars with a variation of this motor. This is the best video on the web featuring this engine. Great job keep them coming!
Best disassembly video I have seen, fantasticially detailed. Subscribed and looking forward to coming episodes! Thanks!!
Very master and high technology transfering with perfect video quality.tnx
I felt tired by just watching you disassembling it, wonderful job
can’t wait to watch it second time
Amazing video thanks, I'm going to end up doing the same thing this winter, thanks for this video it's going to be a great help. I got a GT 550i with constant misfire, also came with 2 cases full of oil in the trunk!
My hero I been skepty to do heavy line work on my f10 but now is cake thank u so much man
OMG What complicated Engine
Amazing video I see why you chose to drop the engine with the subframe💫
What a great video! Enjoyed it every second! Can't wait for the next parts! JUST KEEP GOING DUDE!
Great video. I enjoyed watching it, I am waiting for the next part and if I know the whole procedure of assembling this engine.
Surgical precision in a beautiful garage.
You are amazing!
Methodically detailed. Subbed and i don't even do that on TH-cam.
Will be taking this job on soon.
Appreciate the support! Good luck with the job. Let us know how it goes.
Hello bro I’m zezo from Saudi Arabia In the past, I had a BMW 740 , and I would become poor because of it every week I go to the workshop. Now I own a Lexus LS, and I thank God for this. I have traveled nearly 200,000 miles without any mechanical faults appearing.
thank you!!!
THANKS!!!
Great video! So simple and detailed, everyone can follow and to the same. Keep up the good work!
professionals present
Very good video, waiting for the next one, greetings.
Well done.
we demand continuation 👏👍
fantastic video!
Holy 💩 how do you even begin to design this and put it all together
Also, is this a new channel that was recently launched? If so congratulations on the 1000+ views and counting right off the bat
I bought a 2009 BMW 750Li in March 2021, with 60k Miles for $7500. I was aware of the common issues on the N63, but felt like the deal was still a steal. Car was in immaculate condition, just had some engine codes
Long story short, it needed the vanos solenoids replaced. Did that & all the engine codes went away, except one timing code. It said "Exhaust Camshaft angle outside limit value"
Couldn't figure it out, went to the BMW dealership to see...if they would still warranty the car. Because of the CCP recall & valve stem seals debacle
They told me no & that the timing chain is stretched, and proceeded to give me two $20k quotes to fix or replace the engine. I went home downloaded ISTA, scanned the car it said timing chains are fine(yes they lied in my face). So I narrowed it down to a bad Exhaust Camshaft Adjuster/loose bolt
Bought an Exhaust Camshaft Adjuster & new bolt for $250 on eBay. Had a BMW master mechanic replace it for $750. And what do you know...the car ran perfect afterwards
So yeah I had this same exact problem, and I'm sure many others had...but diagnosed it wrong. Or the dealership lied to them smh. Got me a working 750Li for under $9k 🙂, car currently only has 67k miles
Definitely not the first time a dealer does that. I know most of them won't even do the work, they'll only do engine swaps at this point because there's too much labour involved. Sounds like you got a great deal!
This car had the same issue with the loose bolt but there were also some broken pieces of timing chain in the oil pan which is why I continued with the chain replacement anyway, along with replacing all the leaking gaskets and hoses.
I like 😎
Have made progress on getting my N63 out of the car and starting engine tear down. Up to the point were I will be removing vanes valves and cam gears. Does the engine need to be rotated to mount the cam alien tool for removal of the second set of cam gears of bank 2?
👍👍👍👍👍👍😍😍😍😍😍😍
Great videos, I have watched all through to the road test. I had one question about the N63, is it possible to change the ting chains without removing the cylinder heads?
It is technically possible. I’ve seen a few people do it online just prying off the timing cover and leaving the oil pan and heads in place. The problem with this IMO is you’ll never get a good seal when putting it back in so it’ll inevitably leak.
Wow great Video
Hi dear thanks for video...I have 2015 550 with N63 ..The car had broken cam bolt and jumped timing ..do you think it will bent valve ..
What about your car did you had bdnt valve as it jumped timing
great vid! learned a lot! I am going to change my hp fuel sensor on my f02. what's the torque number for the sensor screw? thanks!
9:35 when green coolant poured out :-(
Hey bud so it's been min, and i wanted to give you an update. The dissaembly was going smoothy until i broke a headbolt when i tried to remove the cylinder head. It set me back about 2 1/2 months. I just recently got it out with a sledge hammer and chisel, so back on schedule again. I will be posting a video series of the complete process as well. Should have it down to the crank and rod bearings by weds. Question for you where did you find the bearing clearances for this motor? i don't have access to the TIS. I was thinking maybe go to bmw as ask them. also did you measure clearances with the plasti gage? Hope all is well up there in CANADA..
Good content bro, quick question… I have a 06 750i, would this apply to that series as well?
On this video you said “ top camshaft (exhaust) is out of time. The bolt holding the VANOS adjuster on became loose and caused timing to slip. This bolt could have been replaced and engine retimed.
Two questions:
1) could this issue cause the engine not to start at all?
2) can I safely assume this engine does not bent valves when the timing slips?
Thanks a lot in advance for your time and congrats for the videos!
If the timing slips far enough to cause the engine not to start, then you would definitely have bent valves. I got extremely lucky in this case as it only slipped a little bit, causing a severe misfire but not damaging any components.
Thanks a lot for your reply. My X5 turns over but it does not start. I bought the car as a non-runner. I have spark, fuel pressure but as the car turns over, I get an irregular rythm as the engine turns over. I think the engine's timing is off. Is there any way to find out if some or any valves are bent without disassembling the engine? Also, can the timing chains, guides and sprockets be replaced without removing the engine from the car? Thanks a lot once again for your time and your good disposition. @@bimmer.doctor
Hi, great video @bimmer.doctor
My mechanic is telling me there is no upper oil pan in my bmw750li RWD 2010 model. So are upper oil pans only in FWD or AWD? or there are other variants of this engine. I am not auto mechanic nor so technical auto guy. Just watched your video to find issue in my car.
Thank you for the video, it will be quite useful when I my 2012 BMW 750i. Purchase as project and has a very bad knock while running. Drain the engine oil and it smelled like gasoline. Oil fluid quantity drained was about 2.5 gallons. Thinking it might be better to get a donor engine, but that would have it’s unknowns. Paid 2,200 for the car so I may some may be able to get a nice ride with a lot of work?
For 2200$ I think you got a steal... It will definitely take a lot of work, and a few thousand dollars, but I'm sure you could make it work and for a whole lot less than you could buy one. Good luck!
@@bimmer.doctor thank you. My current BMW is a 2002 525i bought through a charity auction, had to do and engine swap on it as the original engine sat for a bit with a oil coolant mixture. Any ferrus item was rusty
Complex setup, If you need to change steering pump, you have to drop then whole engine?
These engines are very complex! To change the PS pump for example, you don't need to drop the whole engine, but you do need to drop the whole subframe and support the engine from the top.
@@bimmer.doctor Waiting for next Episode :)
Thanks
This is amazing. Green coolant isn’t helping this situation at all. Plus all the leaks everywhere. My x5 n63 has 115000 on it and is running fantastic! Where are you located? Love to have you build me a new engine when mine goes!
Thank you! Yes, wrong fluids pretty much everywhere in this car. Previous owner had no idea what they were doing. Luckily the bare block, bearings and things are all in great shape. This car only had 82,000km on it... I am from Montreal
Excellent! I’m from Cleveland Ohio so not a far trip! Thanks for the amazing video! The only one this involved on TH-cam. These original N63s need love. The pan valley and oil return block are filled with build up.
@@bimmer.doctor 82000 km? Wow that looks like a 200000 km motor to me
Awesome! If ever you are interested in some work, or just need some help trying to do it yourself, drop me a line at info@bimmerdoctor.com
@@bimmer.doctor honest to god I will. Truly looking forward to seeing how this finished up. Very few people have the knowledge and know how on these engines where I live.
......at 21:00 what is that part held by the 10mm bolt? My n63 is missing that part..?
It was a hose from the power steering pump. I can’t recall exactly where it went but I know that pump also powers the dynamic drive system. Maybe you don’t have that?
@@bimmer.doctor weird on my 2011 x6 50i I have that same copper hole but no bolt or anything attached to it. Thanks Doc for the quick response, I can't seem to find any info on it anywhere.
@@BishopBible If you want to send me your vin by email info@bimmerdoctor.com, I can check it for you and see what it supposed to be.
0:29 - any idea what the leak here is for? Asking this because I am having a leak at the same place.
Impossible to know exactly, but what happens is the turbo oil return housing block leaks in the valley of the engine, and there is a weep hole at the back of the block. Eventually the oil drips down and it can make it look like a rear main seal leak between the engine and transmission. I’ve seen a lot of cases like that. Good news is the parts aren’t that expensive, it’s the labour that costs a lot to get that done…
@@bimmer.doctor Thanks a million, I did the 2 return lines myself recently, they are dry now looks like I need to check the housing now. Thanks for the quick reply - a belated Happy Canada Day from Toronto :)
I have the last question, if the locks on the bank 5-8 do not fit after turning the shaft, is it the fault of the pulled chain? Or a cracked plastic on the top shoe? Because in my case it was cracked and that's why there is slack in the chain.
It could be due to the chain. In my case it was the actual vanos gear that slipped out of time. But if the guide on top is cracked it would probably be time to do them all because they’ll be in similar condition… good luck!
Remove lower oil pan (easy) and check for chain guide chunks.
Could this have been fixed without taking the engine out? Yes as you can also first remove the lower oil pan (easy) to check for chain guide debris (most timing problem is due to the guides). Also do a compression (not telling much if u have timing problem) and leak down test on all cylinders to make sure no bent valve. Also look into each cylinder with endoscope camera to check the wall condition. You can then remove the valve cover (easier said than done) of the bank the code tells you to examine more. If all good except the loose bolt on the sprocket, then it should be safe to say u can change the vanos sprocket bolt and engine should run...
I see rear main seal and the cover above it are leaking and oil leaking everywhere. That already calls for engine out. Otherwise I would have troubleshot more first.
When chain guides are broken (brittle and break off), you have to remove the front timing cover of which u have to remove the cylinder heads (2 bolts thru head cylinder) and upper oil pans (4 bolts thru metal gasket). That means engine out first.
Thanks for the excellent 4k videos in such great details. This helps so much when I need to take things apart and put them back together.
Thanks! Yes, technically this can be done with the engine in the car. I did it once on an X6M but honestly if you have the equipment, it's easier just to take it out and work on it outside the car. You spend so much time fighting for room that I wouldn't do it like that again unless I absolutely had no other choice. Hope the series helps you with your project.
@@bimmer.doctor Yes, VERY nice setup of your garage. I really like the lift.
hey can you send me a link to the tis please 🙏
When will be a next video :(
Video will be posted this afternoon!
Great video, could we get assembly video as well
Master at work. Which country you from?
Thank you! I am from Montreal, Canada 🇨🇦
My AC compressor just wen out is that something i can do from the car 550i n63
I believe the subframe needs to be removed to get the AC compressor out.
Ohhhh man I guess I have something to do then thank you for ur help and great videos
I have a bmw 2012 bmw x50i drive project that i have been putting off for sometime now. I a bought a motor for a swap, was even going to pay someone to do it, but i was more intrigued on completing it myself. I really needed a video step by step like this, in case i run into any roadblocks along the way. My original motor has a knock, possibly spun bearing, but no unusual wear or metal content when oil was lab tested. Plan was to drop subframe, and see if possibly replace lower end bearings without dropping the motor, What would you do in my situation? Just swap motor and be done with it or tear apart existing motor and determine root cause.. Also the motor is currently running, so i dont think valves are bent. Also i accidently discovered this channel, i subscribed and love the content!!! big thumbs up from a fellow youtuber..👍
If the car has a knock, you wouldn’t be able to just throw a new set of bearings in it as there is likely some damage to the crank or to the rods themselves. If you already have a replacement motor I would say just replace some of the common leaking coolant hoses and swap that one in! Hopefully this video series is able to help you get it done yourself. Good luck!
@@bimmer.doctor bro you have no idea how helpful this was. Ive been working on cars for 25 years, and im good with most, but this engine is daunting, and i have put it off, because i wasnt sure where to start. Im going to use this as a guide to mine. I have a brand new set of valve stem seals i bought, and debating if i should put those in while the motor is out of the car. Also the replacement engine has been sitting for almost a year,
Looking for some advice 2014 750 Liz M with 2 DME any different to remove engine
Hi there, the process is very similar but there are a few differences. This video is of the original N63 whereas your 2014 is an N63TU (technical update).
puzzled by the complexity of these machines. how can these be reliable?
Lol, these N63 motors are the least reliable motors BMW ever made. It wasn’t reliable even when it was brand new
what an amazing video... i have one question tho....when removing head bolt some say that the order is from 10 to 1...and while mounting from 1 to 10......appreciate your feed back
Hi, great comment. I just reverified the service manual and you are correct! I made a mistake. Removal should be from 10 to 1 and installation from 1 to 10.
@@bimmer.doctor thanks for commenting back glad i helped someway or another....waiting on your next video...
Great disassembly! In case I’ve missed it already can you advise how old is the car & miles this engine came from?
Thank you! If you can believe it, the engine had only 82,000km on it!
@@bimmer.doctor A great effort to recover it, hope all will run smoothly afterwards.
Can the cats be removed in the car?
Thanks! Yes you can. I’ve done it before but it’s difficult due to the lack of space. Just loosen the heat shields and disconnect from underneath and you should be able to wiggle it through
@@bimmer.doctor I swear I can’t get it out, I can’t get to the lower 8mm external torx at the bottom out because of the tight space. Is there an order you need to remove them? Like bank 1 first then bank 2? In car of course
Unreal works sir ,but BMW audi mercedes are rubbish nowadays,buy new yes keep for2 years get rid but god help poor person buys it second hand
“Timing chains”
So nothing fight this guy? Not even a rusty bolt or a stubborn clamp? Is this a Montage?
Depends on what you’re working on. The engine I didn’t have any struggle with but you’ll see in the next episode that suspension components need some extra work to get out!
...ENDLESS PATIENCE !!!
Too complex, no wonder the repairs are so costly.
I’m mad he didn’t do the rod bearings 😠