Thank you for this video! I have a 2015 suburban with 60K miles and the drivers front shock is leaking oil. I bought OEM shocks for ~$350 each on one of the GM parts websites. Last night tackled the first one. Other than it taking me a while to get that connector apart and transferred to the new shock it went smoothly. I took pictures along the way as I disassembled to ensure I got it returned the same. This video saved me over $1000 by providing me the confidence to do it myself.
I'm about to tackle mine as well, same year and model. Did you rent a spring compressor? How difficult was that part. Thats my biggest concern. Only done minor things to cars.
@@DK11913 I ended up buying the Specialty Products spring compressor 40260 from CarID as they had the best price. Amazon has a knock off for about half. This spring compressor worked really good and I had no problem. I think specialty products has a TH-cam video showing how to use it if you go to their website. I was worried the auto parts store compressors would be too flimsy for the heavy duty springs as many posts I found warned about. Didn’t want to take any risks. I don’t do that much work on vehicles either and found it to be easy enough to do. I struggled with getting the connector apart and moved to new shock. Be patient!! Take some pictures as you dismantle to assist in putting it all back together. Took me 3 hours for the first and 2 hours on the 2nd.
I replaced my front shocks today. thank you for the helpful video. Special Note per the GMC Dealer: When disconnecting the battery, connect the ends of the battery cables with a vise grip to initiate a reset of the computer. When you finish the job, the 30 min reset time will be complete as well. The reset is needed if your old shocks were damaged and the system was compensating. When I initially drove my Yukon, the front "floated" after bumps-like a 70's Cadillac! The reset (above) completed and a 20 mile drive cured the "floaty feeling" it had. Thanks Aaron!
@@Tserfess you take the positive cable and the negative cable and touch them and hold them together. Obviously, make sure they are disconnected from the battery.
Great video! After months of trying to figure out what the knocking in the drivers side dash was, found this video. Overall great instruction for the weekend mechanic. One tip, make sure to realign the strut to the mount and the 3-bolt tower or you'll have to recompress the spring. Passenger side went in easier after that. Thanks for the help here.
@@damarissanders4433 That's what he's saying, it doesn't twist , so mark the spring and strut mount so it aligns to the strut like the original when putting it in.
Thank you for doing this video! Replaced them on '15 Escalade only 50k miles! Rented Heavy Duty Spring Compressor from AutoZone. Picked up the de pin tool from NAPA and Struts from GM parts direct. SAVED $1,300 doing it myself and feel accomlished!
@@jonstanhope5453 squeaking, vibration, bumping noise, oil leaking from cartridge, inner tire wear and when it get real bad check engine light with service suspension on your info center. My 2016 Denali Sierra made 134,000 when both mine took a massive dump. I replaced my springs too because of millage and the front lifted 1&1/2 inches. Then after a month it settled to 1 inch higher
Hi I have same ESV 15. front shocks are low rider go loco... I tried to get these Luftmeister one seems like its sold out..if u don't mind asking where ya get them shocks homie?
Great looking hands! The thumbs are the best. No fumbling here. I just purchased the 2017 GMC Denali truck with Magnaride and your video explained a lot. Thank you
@@Mr.Beastforpresident my was diagnosed by a mechanic, he said the uneven tire wear was caused by a blown shock, and when i checked it, it had grease coming out the top.
Thank for this video! Im having to change my struts for the same truck and i couldnt find any good videos , i appreciate you taking the time to put this together for us. Its greatly appreciated, and f.y.i. my truck has 70k miles if it helps anyone else know that info. Passenger side went out but im changing both fronts as recommended.
I didn’t had any luck with pick tool. I found that using a thin paper clip with a sharp bent at end and when inserted twisting it to the purple plastic direction and pulling worked really well (a good hard one not the soft ones
Hi Aaron...great video but trying to find your written explanation for the de pinning process on the connector. You had a message on the video at around 7:23 that it would be in the comments. Thanks for your help.
Awesome video ! I have a question..I have a 2022 gmc yukon denali..My front driver's side is out can I just change the bad drivers side ! The passenger side is still good no leak ...still works ??? Greatly Appreciate a answer....
I replaced both but I didn't have to undo the sway bar it just come out from bottom. I was wandering if mine came out bc of lift kit or did u loosen it to make it easier to install back ?
2015 Yukon Denali 4x4 with 58k miles, factory 22 inch wheels. Around October of 2019 my two front and right rear units locked up and started leaking. The dealer quoted $2,900 to replace. I didn't want to pay that insane amount as well as periodically replace this poorly designed suspension every $60k miles. I decided to switch from the magna ride to conventional using an aftermarket conversion kit. The conversion kits include front strut assemblies, rear shocks and struts, and the wiring deletion kit so the computer doesn't freak out. I found an issue that some Denali's experience with this modification, factory wheel size will produce different front end ride heights. Most of these conversion kits are designed for 20 inch wheels yet nearly all Denali’s come with the 22 inch wheel creating a height issue. After converting the struts my front end ride height was 35 inches, factory should be +35.9 inches. The .9 inch variance resulted in an extremely weird look, low enough that the wind deflector scrapes on parking curbs. The ride is great yet that look bothered me so I added a 1 inch leveling kit. Now the ride is awful and my caster is -4.5 after alignment. I reached out to the manufacturer and I explained the variance with the 20 to 22 inch wheels, they agreed and decided to replace the front assembly with longer units. Basically they are going to replace the entire front units from a 5 coil spring to 6 coil. Next week I am going to replace the units and remove the spacer. All I care about is a normal ride height and ride quality. Here are my current struts, very compressed.
Awesome dude thanks. I do have a question in your description you have . Nut one time use . Does that mean when I remove the Existing nut I won't be to reuse it?
I'm finally about to tackle this tomorrow. How do you ensure the strut lines up properly when mounting in the spring so that the bolt holes line up? Seems like the top bolts have some wiggle room from the video.
I noticed the service manual recommends 57 ft lb torque for the top nut. How would you even torque it with the cable coming out? I'm guessing most people just guesstimate.
I got a 2016 that needs both fronts done. All quotes I got were from OEM parts. Are these trust worthy? Because they’re much cheaper than an OEM set...
How long did the LuftMeister's last and how was the ride? I've heard bad things about them failing and that the ride was much harsher with them than the factory.
I see you have 2 struts linked. The AC Delco OEM and an aftermarket one as well. Huge price difference. $1000+ vs $350…why the big difference and should I alway use the OEM? 2017 Yukon XL Denali
The AC Delco struts are garbage and fail way too often. I’ve owned several of the MRC SUVs and have stopped using AC Delco because of the failure rate. I now use the complete strut assemblies from Detroit Axle. It eliminates having to reuse any old parts and they have a 10 year warranty. Bonus, they’re made in the USA.
I’m looking to replace my front shocks, the link you have to Amazon says it’s only compatible with the front left shock. Does that sound correct to anyone?
I keep trying to find a good direct replacement magnaride strut and coil kit for ease of install and just can’t find an accurate answer for 2015 Sierra Denali
From what I've found, the cheaper aftermarkets aren't actually magneride, they have the wire and just a sensor or resistor to fool the system so it won't throw a code. But they're just regular shocks.
Excellent video! If the cable that is attached to the top of the shock and connects to something 3:16 is torn off the top of the shock, does it make the shock unusable? Could it be reattached? What benefits would the shock lose without that cable attachment?
Great video. Just replaced my second set of front shocks with your help. Neither has a dash service message prior to beginning the job. On the second set, the service suspension system came up on the dash. I checked the pins and they are properly inserted. Could the wires be potentially reversed? Is there a way to reset by disconnecting the battery? Thanks!!
@@AaronHinesAuto I'm about to tackle this. Do you know which color goes to which side or do I just need to pay careful attention to the orientation when I pull it out?
I didn’t pay attention to which color went to which side, however if you pause this video at the point where he’s repinning, he doesn’t put them back in the same spot. Not sure if it matters or not.
@@harleyhoracio1 Yeah interesting find. I just took a picture of them when removing them to refer to when putting back. I also have a bidirectional scan tool and monitored the shock command for the fronts and they seemed fairly symmetrical.
How do you know it isn’t working? My avalanche has 130k miles I replaced my rear shocks and my air pump. Does this system run off of the air pump? I’m pretty good at swapping things out especially with a video like yours. I changed my plugs and wires today and got to looking at my shocks. Any info you can is appreciated
great video, thank you... I jacked up one side. (passenger). Tried doing job without taking sway bar link all the way off, that was impossible. Even after it was removed , putting the strut up into the cradle and putting the nut on closest to you The strut still hung lower than arm! So had to press down on control arm, jack the strut up a bit to get it over into place. Mine was the dorman all in one product on a 2016 sierra 1500 denali. 1 hour job on youtube, took me forever to get even the sway bar link off, just my luck. The fastener holders at bottom of shock that came with dorman are wrong ones, had to transfer over the old ones. that was a nice surprise running the bolt up into wrong thread -- DORMAN 949730 (2) . going to finish the attaching the sway bar now and then the 2 bolts and electrical.
yea....my front right is leaking and they quoted me 1600 for parts and labor and then another 100 plus for alignment. I may just buy the entire piece as one and install it
ACDelco 84176631 GM Original Equipment Front Shock Absorber www.amazon.com/dp/B010GP0MT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_psepEbKDPHPJS Cost $800 ruffly parts and labor. Came with connectors. But our still rides like Sh#@. Back in shop today. Has service ride errors. My f150 with a lift rides better. It's like a low rider without shocks.
having hard time removing the pins. love to see more detail on this. I tried your link but I really didn't get more insight. Also a video or link to reseting the system may help
I did this with a buddy and we couldn't use his method, likely because the pick tool wasn't fat enough to grab. Ended up pushing it from the other side. Probably bad for the connector but it worked.
link for the shocks doesn't exist.... I did research on Amazon and ebay google.. cannot seems to find these shocks.. anyone can help me plz... I'm riding real low ninja turtlin in the escalade
I would have cut, spliced and heat shrink wrapped the connector and wires to the new shock, it seems your method is begging for something to be damaged.
If you would have elaborated on the wires insertion into the clip as orientation etc. The video would have been way better for us do it ourselfers! Lol. Good job though
I still have a rough ride after replacing all of mine. Dealer did the first one and I replaced the other 3. I read in the forums one person cleared codes to get the ride back to normal. I have no ESCM codes or otherwise. Anyone have to do a ALC Trimset recalibration after doing this? Shop manual seems to indicate it should be done. Going to try it today and see if it helps.
Tires play a big role in this. Test drove my truck with factory tires - rode like a Cadillac (being a denali 1500). Swapped my DuraTracs on it, and it's a LOT rougher ride. No more Cadillac :(
@@tbon22s Yeah, I'm a little pissed that a year into it, the dealer said yeah probably tires except they're the ones that recommended these tires over OEM and then told me the fix is to replace the tires which they wouldn't prorate or give me credit on. I drive so little I probably won't be due for new tires until I sell it unless I fall into a pile of cash but I did like the original OE Continentals on it. They said the firestone ones they sold me had a lot of ride complaints.
CAN'T THE OLD CONNECTOR JUST BE SPLICED TO THE NEW WIRES? ***UPDATE*** I CUT AND SPLICED OLD CONNECTOR TO THE NEW GM STRUTS. NO CODES, PERFORM SUSPENSION HIEGHT RELEARN. ALL GOOD.
Thank you for this video! I have a 2015 suburban with 60K miles and the drivers front shock is leaking oil. I bought OEM shocks for ~$350 each on one of the GM parts websites. Last night tackled the first one. Other than it taking me a while to get that connector apart and transferred to the new shock it went smoothly. I took pictures along the way as I disassembled to ensure I got it returned the same. This video saved me over $1000 by providing me the confidence to do it myself.
I'm about to tackle mine as well, same year and model. Did you rent a spring compressor? How difficult was that part. Thats my biggest concern. Only done minor things to cars.
@@DK11913 I ended up buying the Specialty Products spring compressor 40260 from CarID as they had the best price. Amazon has a knock off for about half. This spring compressor worked really good and I had no problem. I think specialty products has a TH-cam video showing how to use it if you go to their website. I was worried the auto parts store compressors would be too flimsy for the heavy duty springs as many posts I found warned about. Didn’t want to take any risks. I don’t do that much work on vehicles either and found it to be easy enough to do. I struggled with getting the connector apart and moved to new shock. Be patient!! Take some pictures as you dismantle to assist in putting it all back together. Took me 3 hours for the first and 2 hours on the 2nd.
Wich website did you buy them
@@edgarzuniga8767 I bought the spring compressor from www.carid.com
Efdy
I replaced my front shocks today. thank you for the helpful video. Special Note per the GMC Dealer: When disconnecting the battery, connect the ends of the battery cables with a vise grip to initiate a reset of the computer. When you finish the job, the 30 min reset time will be complete as well. The reset is needed if your old shocks were damaged and the system was compensating. When I initially drove my Yukon, the front "floated" after bumps-like a 70's Cadillac! The reset (above) completed and a 20 mile drive cured the "floaty feeling" it had. Thanks Aaron!
Can you explain the reset a bit more? Connect what to vice grips?
@@Tserfess you take the positive cable and the negative cable and touch them and hold them together. Obviously, make sure they are disconnected from the battery.
I need to try this. I am floating all over the road......
Anyone know if this reset will affect a tune? Thx
Great video! After months of trying to figure out what the knocking in the drivers side dash was, found this video. Overall great instruction for the weekend mechanic. One tip, make sure to realign the strut to the mount and the 3-bolt tower or you'll have to recompress the spring. Passenger side went in easier after that. Thanks for the help here.
You to twist the strut to get it aligned with the lower A arm?
@@damarissanders4433 That's what he's saying, it doesn't twist , so mark the spring and strut mount so it aligns to the strut like the original when putting it in.
Thank you for doing this video! Replaced them on '15 Escalade only 50k miles! Rented Heavy Duty Spring Compressor from AutoZone. Picked up the de pin tool from NAPA and Struts from GM parts direct. SAVED $1,300 doing it myself and feel accomlished!
What were the symptoms you were getting? I have a 2015 Suburban and I'm getting shaking/vibration 70-80mph
I have to change mine too. 2016 Denali with 52000 miles. GM garbage
@@jonstanhope5453 squeaking, vibration, bumping noise, oil leaking from cartridge, inner tire wear and when it get real bad check engine light with service suspension on your info center.
My 2016 Denali Sierra made 134,000 when both mine took a massive dump. I replaced my springs too because of millage and the front lifted 1&1/2 inches. Then after a month it settled to 1 inch higher
Hi I have same ESV 15. front shocks are low rider go loco... I tried to get these Luftmeister one seems like its sold out..if u don't mind asking where ya get them shocks homie?
@@rich.e.1786 Same here, gmc sierra 2017 whit 48,000 miles and all the shocks need replacement im doing it myself
Good video. Used it as a guide to replace the shocks in my 2020 Denali today. They both sprung a leak after only 52k miles.
Ah GM Magneride, if they are working right, it rides like a dream. If they go out, you get the ride of a donkey cart! No in between lol
💯. My 2016 Escalade drove like a lowrider until I installed my new rear shocks today.
Mine is leaking and I did think it is the worst ride since its not working
Great looking hands! The thumbs are the best. No fumbling here. I just purchased the 2017 GMC Denali truck with Magnaride and your video explained a lot. Thank you
Great video, thanks for doing this. I replaced my shocks yesterday and this video was a big help!
My right front went out at 37k. Great video. Went ahead and just replaced both. Found the replacement connectors at Digikey
The price for these are steep. You think they could at least give you a dang connector
Especially considering they were $1.50 a piece. Here is the Digikey part number. 1-1703498-3
@@mem901tn9 When you ordered the part from Digikey did it come with that tiny purple piece that was removed at 7:06 in the video?
How you know it went out? Also did it drive differently? As-in tracking left-to-right when going down the road?
@@Mr.Beastforpresident my was diagnosed by a mechanic, he said the uneven tire wear was caused by a blown shock, and when i checked it, it had grease coming out the top.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video
Thank for this video! Im having to change my struts for the same truck and i couldnt find any good videos , i appreciate you taking the time to put this together for us. Its greatly appreciated, and f.y.i. my truck has 70k miles if it helps anyone else know that info. Passenger side went out but im changing both fronts as recommended.
Seriously, they couldn’t even put the damn connector on it! Thats absurd. Keep up the great work and have a Happy Thanksgiving!
I think its that way because the nut wouldn't make it past the connector if it were on.
Thank you Sir. Those little connection were a pain.
Thanks for the video!
Love your vids on these style trucks
I didn’t had any luck with pick tool.
I found that using a thin paper clip with a sharp bent at end and when inserted twisting it to the purple plastic direction and pulling worked really well (a good hard one not the soft ones
Great video. Thanks man.
Thanks for making this video!
Hi Aaron...great video but trying to find your written explanation for the de pinning process on the connector. You had a message on the video at around 7:23 that it would be in the comments. Thanks for your help.
Thank you! Very informative.
Great video Bud.
Awesome video ! I have a question..I have a 2022 gmc yukon denali..My front driver's side is out can I just change the bad drivers side ! The passenger side is still good no leak ...still works ??? Greatly Appreciate a answer....
Does it matter which pin goes into what hole?
I replaced both but I didn't have to undo the sway bar it just come out from bottom. I was wandering if mine came out bc of lift kit or did u loosen it to make it easier to install back ?
Awesome 👏 video. 👍
2015 Yukon Denali 4x4 with 58k miles, factory 22 inch wheels. Around October of 2019 my two front and right rear units locked up and started leaking. The dealer quoted $2,900 to replace. I didn't want to pay that insane amount as well as periodically replace this poorly designed suspension every $60k miles. I decided to switch from the magna ride to conventional using an aftermarket conversion kit. The conversion kits include front strut assemblies, rear shocks and struts, and the wiring deletion kit so the computer doesn't freak out. I found an issue that some Denali's experience with this modification, factory wheel size will produce different front end ride heights. Most of these conversion kits are designed for 20 inch wheels yet nearly all Denali’s come with the 22 inch wheel creating a height issue. After converting the struts my front end ride height was 35 inches, factory should be +35.9 inches. The .9 inch variance resulted in an extremely weird look, low enough that the wind deflector scrapes on parking curbs. The ride is great yet that look bothered me so I added a 1 inch leveling kit. Now the ride is awful and my caster is -4.5 after alignment.
I reached out to the manufacturer and I explained the variance with the 20 to 22 inch wheels, they agreed and decided to replace the front assembly with longer units. Basically they are going to replace the entire front units from a 5 coil spring to 6 coil. Next week I am going to replace the units and remove the spacer. All I care about is a normal ride height and ride quality.
Here are my current struts, very compressed.
Well, I'm having issues attaching photos to the post. I'll add the photos soon.
Awesome dude thanks. I do have a question in your description you have . Nut one time use . Does that mean when I remove the Existing nut I won't be to reuse it?
I'm finally about to tackle this tomorrow. How do you ensure the strut lines up properly when mounting in the spring so that the bolt holes line up? Seems like the top bolts have some wiggle room from the video.
Any idea on torque specs for reassembly? Otherwise great video, thank you!
I noticed the service manual recommends 57 ft lb torque for the top nut. How would you even torque it with the cable coming out? I'm guessing most people just guesstimate.
Using a crows foot wrench
One question,why did you disconnect the negative cable? Does it need to reset for when you change to old shock to the new shock?
Great video! Changing out mine this weekend 2017 Denali 1500. How about a video for lower control arm replacement? :)
I got one of those coming soon! Thanks!
I got a 2016 that needs both fronts done. All quotes I got were from OEM parts. Are these trust worthy? Because they’re much cheaper than an OEM set...
How long did the LuftMeister's last and how was the ride? I've heard bad things about them failing and that the ride was much harsher with them than the factory.
I see you have 2 struts linked. The AC Delco OEM and an aftermarket one as well. Huge price difference. $1000+ vs $350…why the big difference and should I alway use the OEM? 2017 Yukon XL Denali
Did you every figure this out? I’m wondering the same thing have a 2018 Sierra Denali
@@alecbraun95 No luckily warranty covered OEM so I didn’t have to worry about it.
We went with OEM for our replacement. We have a 2015 Suburban. The strut was leaking and causing a creaking noise in the front end.
If i were to replace these struts with a rough country leveling strut without the electric wires would i have any check engine light or error codes?
How can I order the white plastic is around the strut? I have a 2018 chevy and those plastic’s are broken
Doe anyone know the GM replacement part number for the connector Aaron reuses in this video? I have one that is broken and need to replace it. Thanks.
The AC Delco struts are garbage and fail way too often. I’ve owned several of the MRC SUVs and have stopped using AC Delco because of the failure rate. I now use the complete strut assemblies from Detroit Axle. It eliminates having to reuse any old parts and they have a 10 year warranty. Bonus, they’re made in the USA.
I’m looking to replace my front shocks, the link you have to Amazon says it’s only compatible with the front left shock. Does that sound correct to anyone?
What are the torque specs?
I keep trying to find a good direct replacement magnaride strut and coil kit for ease of install and just can’t find an accurate answer for 2015 Sierra Denali
From what I've found, the cheaper aftermarkets aren't actually magneride, they have the wire and just a sensor or resistor to fool the system so it won't throw a code. But they're just regular shocks.
Excellent video! If the cable that is attached to the top of the shock and connects to something 3:16 is torn off the top of the shock, does it make the shock unusable? Could it be reattached? What benefits would the shock lose without that cable attachment?
Question it doesn’t matter how you put the connectors ???
Great video. Just replaced my second set of front shocks with your help. Neither has a dash service message prior to beginning the job. On the second set, the service suspension system came up on the dash. I checked the pins and they are properly inserted. Could the wires be potentially reversed? Is there a way to reset by disconnecting the battery? Thanks!!
Did you ever figure this out?
I have the same issue
I have same issue. Anyone figure it out?
@@loreneerazo5643 did you ever figure it out?
@@davidchapman1986 did you figure it out?
It looks like you switched the wires when you put the connector back together.
Do you have a part number to purchase a new connector i broke the purple tab?
What if i put a sensorless damper on it
What does it affect?
Thank you
Whats the argument of repinning vs cut and splice connector onto new wires?
Repinning is what the factory Manual tells you to do and how GM does it. Cutting and slicing is the easier way.
@@AaronHinesAuto
I guess I’d like to know if the wires are fully soldered together would it make a difference?
Does it matter where the cables go? Like if they are switched from left to right and right to left when it’s connected to the connector.. thank you
I have not tested to see if it works. But theoretically I don’t think it matters. I could be wrong. But it shouldn’t
@@AaronHinesAuto I'm about to tackle this. Do you know which color goes to which side or do I just need to pay careful attention to the orientation when I pull it out?
I didn’t pay attention to which color went to which side, however if you pause this video at the point where he’s repinning, he doesn’t put them back in the same spot. Not sure if it matters or not.
@@harleyhoracio1 Yeah interesting find. I just took a picture of them when removing them to refer to when putting back. I also have a bidirectional scan tool and monitored the shock command for the fronts and they seemed fairly symmetrical.
How do you know it isn’t working? My avalanche has 130k miles I replaced my rear shocks and my air pump. Does this system run off of the air pump? I’m pretty good at swapping things out especially with a video like yours. I changed my plugs and wires today and got to looking at my shocks. Any info you can is appreciated
The rear runs of the air pump only. Both front and back are magnetic ride control, DC current is applied to change oil viscosity.
Why disconnect the negative?
You ever just cut the connector and solder it onto the new one?
I have not but if it was my own personal vehicle I would consider it
great video, thank you... I jacked up one side. (passenger). Tried doing job without taking sway bar link all the way off, that was impossible. Even after it was removed , putting the strut up into the cradle and putting the nut on closest to you The strut still hung lower than arm! So had to press down on control arm, jack the strut up a bit to get it over into place. Mine was the dorman all in one product on a 2016 sierra 1500 denali. 1 hour job on youtube, took me forever to get even the sway bar link off, just my luck. The fastener holders at bottom of shock that came with dorman are wrong ones, had to transfer over the old ones. that was a nice surprise running the bolt up into wrong thread -- DORMAN 949730 (2) . going to finish the attaching the sway bar now and then the 2 bolts and electrical.
Would the rear be air or the same system as the front?
Rear is air for auto level, front doesn't have that feature.
I bought cheap quick struts off of Amazon and I believe the springs are to weak and now the truck is sitting to low
Dealer just told me $1900 for front struts and alignment. I said wtf... 70k. Crazy... 2015 Yukon Denali.
Wow!!
yea....my front right is leaking and they quoted me 1600 for parts and labor and then another 100 plus for alignment. I may just buy the entire piece as one and install it
ACDelco 84176631 GM Original Equipment Front Shock Absorber www.amazon.com/dp/B010GP0MT2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_psepEbKDPHPJS
Cost $800 ruffly parts and labor. Came with connectors. But our still rides like Sh#@. Back in shop today. Has service ride errors. My f150 with a lift rides better. It's like a low rider without shocks.
Does that include Limo ride to and from the dealer and a Butler and meals until it’s fixed?
Regular Guy Fixes Does that include Limo ride to and from the dealer and a Butler and meals until it’s fixed?
Anyone have experience with the nock off brands?
having hard time removing the pins. love to see more detail on this. I tried your link but I really didn't get more insight. Also a video or link to reseting the system may help
I did this with a buddy and we couldn't use his method, likely because the pick tool wasn't fat enough to grab. Ended up pushing it from the other side. Probably bad for the connector but it worked.
Just cut the shit off the new shock and solder + heat shrink tube the old connector on.
@@scottleggejr Now we have a thinker lol. I’d trust solder better than me butchering that connector any day!!
Are u in California ?
link for the shocks doesn't exist.... I did research on Amazon and ebay google.. cannot seems to find these shocks.. anyone can help me plz... I'm riding real low ninja turtlin in the escalade
is it this one similar? $900+900 shipping is like meh...
sorry about the link, it is fixed now! aftermarket is 419.00 for the pair
@@AaronHinesAuto these are for the rear shocks eh? I guess I'm shit outta luck... Lordco says $850 CDN a piece OEM GM parts.
As far as the wires go I just cut the harness off the old one, then solder it onto the new one.
Does it matter which wire goes to each? Just match the color?
@@nmgoes Match color if can. Not sure if it matters or not.
I have a 2016 denali smoth drive...it's got a squeaky sound on the front end when driving ...please help
I would have cut, spliced and heat shrink wrapped the connector and wires to the new shock, it seems your method is begging for something to be damaged.
Question after I installed my shocks and struts I get the suspension system code on my dash why is that?
Polarity is important ?
Did you ever get a response on this?
If you would have elaborated on the wires insertion into the clip as orientation etc. The video would have been way better for us do it ourselfers! Lol. Good job though
I still have a rough ride after replacing all of mine. Dealer did the first one and I replaced the other 3. I read in the forums one person cleared codes to get the ride back to normal. I have no ESCM codes or otherwise. Anyone have to do a ALC Trimset recalibration after doing this? Shop manual seems to indicate it should be done. Going to try it today and see if it helps.
Tires play a big role in this. Test drove my truck with factory tires - rode like a Cadillac (being a denali 1500). Swapped my DuraTracs on it, and it's a LOT rougher ride. No more Cadillac :(
@@tbon22s Yeah, I'm a little pissed that a year into it, the dealer said yeah probably tires except they're the ones that recommended these tires over OEM and then told me the fix is to replace the tires which they wouldn't prorate or give me credit on. I drive so little I probably won't be due for new tires until I sell it unless I fall into a pile of cash but I did like the original OE Continentals on it. They said the firestone ones they sold me had a lot of ride complaints.
These shocks really are no good and the pins loose after 40 thousand miles and check engine light will stay on. Gm all about job security!!
CAN'T THE OLD CONNECTOR JUST BE SPLICED TO THE NEW WIRES? ***UPDATE*** I CUT AND SPLICED OLD CONNECTOR TO THE NEW GM STRUTS. NO CODES, PERFORM SUSPENSION HIEGHT RELEARN. ALL GOOD.
How do you perform the suspension height relearn?
@@vondaeverett3008 with scan tool
@@vondaeverett3008 WITH A SCAN TOOL. I HAVE A SHOP SO I HAVE SCAN TOOLS.
Looks like Lasts 96000 Miles
Ever mess with Z55 shocks? WHat really fails? Ever open one up and show what is reeeeeally the issue other than Normal GM engineered failures.
Is that ok to replace only one side? I mean replacing left side but keep right side as it was before.