Thanks for the great video. Really helpful at showing the location and the problems with removing this oil pressure sensor. With my 2010 Buick Enclave I found the job was a lot easier after getting an "Oil Pressure Sending Unit Socket" ( Lisle 13200 ). The socket is thinner and shorter, making it easier to get into this tight spot. It is also made to fit the rounded corners of the oil pressure sensor. If you buy a different socket try to get a 3/8" drive - the extra space with the smaller ratchet is helpful. You may also want to place a rag underneath the sender in case the sender or the socket falls when pulling out the sensor ( you don't want to go chasing it down the frame rails). As you said remove the oil filter ( for those wondering - only about 4 ounces of oil will leak out.). Best of luck.
I just finished doing this exact job on my 2012 Terrain FWD 6cyl and I can confirm that patience is your best friend here. Also, do not wait until late in the day to start the job because you will need ample light to see what you are doing. Once you start cranking on the OPS, you are committed to it.
Thank you for the tip. It saved me a LOT of money and aggravation. I just did this on my '09 Traverse (about 170k miles) after the same symptoms occurred. Here are my notes: * The service manual does say to take the alternator out, but clearly you don't have to (at least not always). * My car has a 170-amp alternator. If there are different capacities, models, or manufacturers, the amount of room you have to work with may be different than what you see in the video. (I think mine was a little tighter.) * My installation was too tight to get a socket in. I ended up buying the sensor socket, which fits better and has a thin wall. (Was worth the $11 I paid, considering what I saved on the job.) Even then, I had to very gently encourage it onto the sensor, both in removing and installing. * If you use a socket, you'll need a 6-point. The sensor's corners are rounded, and a 12-point just rolls. The size does seem to be 1 1/16", which should be almost identical to 27 mm. I think you also want a thin-wall socket, not an impact. * There is a harness that runs through where the sensor is, just like he described. I ended up lifting it out of the way, which made getting the socket and sensor in a little trickier, but not too bad. * The sensor wasn't so tight that I needed a 1/2" ratchet. My 3/8" flex head was fine and saved some room. I also used a short wobble extension instead of a universal, since I didn't find that I needed that much angle. After I got it a little loose, I used a 3/8" palm ratchet with gimbals. That let me turn from any angle. It also worked nicely for putting it in. * My old sensor seemed to be plugged with oil sludge. I'm thinking that's what caused the problem.
Just got one of these in the shop, replaced a slew of suspension parts. Now, we are trying to hunt down an oil leak, and we think that it's the sensor. This helps GREATLY. Thank you for posting this.
There's a plastic cover on the side of the alternator (black thing in top-right corner of screen at 2:49; touching the socket). Grab a quarter inch ratchet and an 8mm. Remove the 3 nuts and take the cover off (also remove negative cable from alternator). Should provide "just enough" extra room to make this job easier. Just remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal under the back seat before you start (unless you like fireworks).
Thank you. My 2008 Acadia just started doing the same thing. Now I have a starting point. Can’t believe it doesn’t have an oil pressure gauge. I have no idea if I have an oil pressure problem, or a bad oil pressure sensor. I’ll soon find out! Thanks again.
My 2011 hasn't even got am oil pressure gauge on the dash, I have a slight oil leak I havent pinpointed yet but I think it's the oil sensor, I was dam near empty on oil and no warning lights came on, could have wrecked my engine.
Doing the OPS on the wife's 2016 tonight. Then I have to change the power steering pump (162,000 miles). After that I will take the gas tank down and out to get this anti slosh baffle out that keep messing with my fuel pump level arm. I love this Traverse but it's becoming a lemon. Replaced all 4 hub assemblies at 110,000 miles as well. 🙄
@@violinman1970 - That engine was originally used in rear-wheel-drive applications, so the alternator was probably not mounted exactly the same. It may also have been changed to another model with bigger diameter (maybe a different manufacturer or to increase amperage), which makes the clearance tighter. GM gets nothing from dealer service (except angry customers), so it's certainly not intentional. I'd be curious to see if they moved the switch in the second generation of the 3.6L.
Now THIS is a well done instructional video. Showing the location. The tool. Etc was perfectly done. Thank you
Thanks for the great video. Really helpful at showing the location and the problems with removing this oil pressure sensor. With my 2010 Buick Enclave I found the job was a lot easier after getting an "Oil Pressure Sending Unit Socket" ( Lisle 13200 ). The socket is thinner and shorter, making it easier to get into this tight spot. It is also made to fit the rounded corners of the oil pressure sensor. If you buy a different socket try to get a 3/8" drive - the extra space with the smaller ratchet is helpful. You may also want to place a rag underneath the sender in case the sender or the socket falls when pulling out the sensor ( you don't want to go chasing it down the frame rails). As you said remove the oil filter ( for those wondering - only about 4 ounces of oil will leak out.). Best of luck.
I just finished doing this exact job on my 2012 Terrain FWD 6cyl and I can confirm that patience is your best friend here. Also, do not wait until late in the day to start the job because you will need ample light to see what you are doing. Once you start cranking on the OPS, you are committed to it.
This has been literally driving me and my husband crazy thank you so much you thought we would never find it what a place to put it
Thank you for the tip. It saved me a LOT of money and aggravation. I just did this on my '09 Traverse (about 170k miles) after the same symptoms occurred. Here are my notes:
* The service manual does say to take the alternator out, but clearly you don't have to (at least not always).
* My car has a 170-amp alternator. If there are different capacities, models, or manufacturers, the amount of room you have to work with may be different than what you see in the video. (I think mine was a little tighter.)
* My installation was too tight to get a socket in. I ended up buying the sensor socket, which fits better and has a thin wall. (Was worth the $11 I paid, considering what I saved on the job.) Even then, I had to very gently encourage it onto the sensor, both in removing and installing.
* If you use a socket, you'll need a 6-point. The sensor's corners are rounded, and a 12-point just rolls. The size does seem to be 1 1/16", which should be almost identical to 27 mm. I think you also want a thin-wall socket, not an impact.
* There is a harness that runs through where the sensor is, just like he described. I ended up lifting it out of the way, which made getting the socket and sensor in a little trickier, but not too bad.
* The sensor wasn't so tight that I needed a 1/2" ratchet. My 3/8" flex head was fine and saved some room. I also used a short wobble extension instead of a universal, since I didn't find that I needed that much angle. After I got it a little loose, I used a 3/8" palm ratchet with gimbals. That let me turn from any angle. It also worked nicely for putting it in.
* My old sensor seemed to be plugged with oil sludge. I'm thinking that's what caused the problem.
Just got one of these in the shop, replaced a slew of suspension parts.
Now, we are trying to hunt down an oil leak, and we think that it's the sensor.
This helps GREATLY.
Thank you for posting this.
Thank you SO MUCH for this information!!! So Helpful and now we have a direction to go in. Your Awesome!
Came across this just in time, thank you sooo much sir and for the ones that had other suggestions
Glad I could help!
With my reader Zero oil pressure. Thank you sir. Most informative. Accurate and spot on. I will replace mine tomorrow. Thanks to your help.
Thank you very much, sir, for this very well made instructional video!
There's a plastic cover on the side of the alternator (black thing in top-right corner of screen at 2:49; touching the socket). Grab a quarter inch ratchet and an 8mm. Remove the 3 nuts and take the cover off (also remove negative cable from alternator). Should provide "just enough" extra room to make this job easier. Just remember to disconnect the negative battery terminal under the back seat before you start (unless you like fireworks).
Thanks bud
thank you! Saved our shop a bunch of time
Glad it helped!
Very informative thanks
Much appreciated brother. 🙏🏻
Thank ya
Did you replace the oil pressure sensor filter while you had the sensor out?
I did not. New sensor solved my problem.
Thank you for my time saved.
Yes very well done video thank you you nailed it
I appreciate your info thanks!
Yep it helped. Got to one now.
I have a question do you have to drain the oil to replace the oil pressure sensor on a 2010 GMC Acadia SLT AWD
No
Great video thank you
Thank you. My 2008 Acadia just started doing the same thing. Now I have a starting point. Can’t believe it doesn’t have an oil pressure gauge. I have no idea if I have an oil pressure problem, or a bad oil pressure sensor. I’ll soon find out! Thanks again.
Glad I could help!
Was that the problem?
Thanks for the lesson
My 2011 hasn't even got am oil pressure gauge on the dash, I have a slight oil leak I havent pinpointed yet but I think it's the oil sensor, I was dam near empty on oil and no warning lights came on, could have wrecked my engine.
Did you have issues starting the truck prior?
Did this seem to solve the problem? My wife is have the same exact issue occasionally. I was originally considering replacing the pump.
Yes, we haven't had any oil pressure warnings after I replaced the sensor.
Is this the same for a 2010 GMC Acadia ? I just got told that mine was messing up , and the dealer is trying to charge me $1000
Thanks, good Job.
Good video brother
Thanks!
U have the Part number for the sensor?
Not off hand. I ordered it from Rock Auto
any and all shops want $5-700 for this as they say you HAVE To remove the alternator. Thank you!!
Whats size is the socket? 1 1/16?
Yes
Doing the OPS on the wife's 2016 tonight. Then I have to change the power steering pump (162,000 miles). After that I will take the gas tank down and out to get this anti slosh baffle out that keep messing with my fuel pump level arm. I love this Traverse but it's becoming a lemon. Replaced all 4 hub assemblies at 110,000 miles as well. 🙄
2Yq GFT a v
honestly wht the fk were this designers smoking when they did this?????????????????
Im sure their thought was they want you to take your vehicle to the stealership and get charged a stupid amount of money to replace a $20 part
I've worked on worse.
@@violinman1970 - That engine was originally used in rear-wheel-drive applications, so the alternator was probably not mounted exactly the same. It may also have been changed to another model with bigger diameter (maybe a different manufacturer or to increase amperage), which makes the clearance tighter. GM gets nothing from dealer service (except angry customers), so it's certainly not intentional. I'd be curious to see if they moved the switch in the second generation of the 3.6L.
Not too bad but you didn't show how to remove the wire connection or even the connection on the new sensor, 6 out of 10...