Brother you just blew my mind with the finished results I never knew you can take clearcoat paint the far, this is the most helpful paint correction video I have seen yet
Amazing video, your not only a professional detailer, you explain things so well. Your youtube videos are edited perfectly and are one of the best of the best.
Good stuff mate...It's easy and well deserved to be blown away with the after shots, but the most important advise for the viewers here IMO is residue management which starts with wash and decon phases and continues to the right throughout the process. It is more time consuming but allows as close to perfection as possible. In my experience it's better to go overtime on a job and follow your residue management plan than to hope it's going to turn out ok. Also check after each pass to be sure you have removed all marring/defects when compounding and polishing. There is nothing worse than inspecting the work at the end to find a section not corrected properly. If you have to go back and compound at this point the extra polishing and jeweling are the least of your worries. It's the dust that can disperse over car that will cause you the pain to swear and do these steps properly next time. Believe me this pain is not only monetary it's also physical and mental.
After watching many of your videos and studying them deeply, this was was the one that made me think 'I can do it'.I have a 10yr old white Peugeot Partner van that has been washed weekly but never garaged and is so oxidised it looks like chalk on close inspection. I bought a Shinemate EX603 and decided to try Scholl S20 Black with a blue spider pad and Menzerna 400+3500 with a Shinemate heavy cut green pad/Shinemate finishing red pad to see the difference. I decontaminated and was ready with the Carpro Eraser after every set of passes.I did not encounter the sheer volume of oxidation to come off after 8 passes on a 12inch square which completly clogged up the spider pad.After a second 8 passes using S20 Black, I was truely amazed with the shine and cleanness of the paint finish.I will compare the Menzerna method soon and check for differences.I am also planning to use at least two or three pads per van panel and wash them out and rid the oxidation to keep the pads abrasion.Is this a good idea or are there any other method to deal witth the oxidation?Can you do a video on the inspection lights you use? I did my first session under a tree to get good shade then used a large piece of MDF to create full shade for the best inspection conditions and this was just about good enough to see any missed oxidation spots or uncorrected areas.I've got the bug now and already have bought Solution Finish for the bleached out black trims and bumpers.
Wow great response you nailed it for sure. I see most everyone is they wash their car on the weekends at best..the wrong way. They use the classic I towel or wash mitt in same bucket over and over again scratching the paint week after week etc. I can't believe all over Internet, I'm sure you know pros using two bucket method with worthless grit guards still have rocks sand on mitts. Making tons of money selling wrong info/methods. 1 guy has it perfect 9th gen accord on you tube. Using 4 mitts never same mitt touches paint!! You are so right that most car owners don't wax often enough to protect clear coat especially ones that have cars sitting outside 24/7. Killer cold salty snow winters and blazing hot summers with pollen/ pollution baked in the clear coat just sitting in sun for months and older people can't hand wash/wax cars so they take to a drive thru car wash. UGhh they say why do I have so many scratches?? That's what I'm seeing from customers. Oh and we're just talking exteriors.
Best detailer on TH-cam! Gonna use this method on my car 👍 the trans is starting to go out so gonna be my guniea pig before I junk it. Its gonna be the best looking car at the junkyard haha
I always enjoy watching the use and technique needed to apply the varied stages required to achieve a high standard of paint correction, high gloss and protected paint finish. Thanks.
I have csl and Exo on about year left the. I’m wet sanding looks like it going to be a whole weekend process maybe more maybe I should get someone to help me. Your videos are helpful
Great tutorial, Sandro, but just one question. Why does the wet sanding end at about 2000 or 2500 grit, to be followed by compounding? If wet sanding is efficient, why not keep stepping up the grits - 3000, 5000, 7000? I understand compound can cope with as low as 1500 grit sanding, but does that necessarily mean compounding should be used at that point? Why not just keep stepping up the wet sanding grits, and then go straight to polishing?
I’d say because you will still need to compound and polish to get the best finish so added more sanding steps may not necessarily be the most efficient way to go. But quite honestly there’s no set rules and you may find sanding longer with even finer grits sometimes works even better, it really depends on how hard the paint is and how good you are at dealing with more sensitive body lines safely.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks. I will keep experimenting with different methods. Perhaps the best solution will be to sand to about 5000, to minimize the need to compound, without eliminating that step. As you say, there are other variables to consider, and every job is at least a bit different.
Fantastic vid - few really explain the process of orange peel removal on here and those pictures at the end are UNBELIEVABLE! And I know they'll look even better in person because the camera never fully does them justice. I've been practicing orange peel removal for a while on panels and the issue I'm having is that from a distance they look as yours did here, but upclose there is always minor waviness. It looks like minor orange peel in some areas, even though it's not. They still look dazzling and I KNOW it's not orange peel because when I resand there are no peaks. I must simply be levelling the texture but then causing unevenness between sanded areas perhaps. Have you ever dealt with that and overcome it, because I'm not sure how I'm doing it? You don't seem to have that issue. Any help appreciated. Maybe it's because I usually split panels like this into 4 and sand them individually, sometimes with different grits, meaning they'll definitely be uneven with each other even when the texture is levelled. How you sand with the 1500 discs that have extraction holes I'll never know - all I ever get with them is pig tails!
If you want to skip the compounding stage you certainly could continue to 5000g and just polish, but it’s really more of a personal preference, thanks.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I recently got a dream job at a mustang resto shop. Watching you do it by machine really boosted my confidence to use the machines to save time hand sanding. But i think hard blocking with 1000 grit to start is a must to get every thing flat. Then I go 1500, 3000, 5000 then polish. Any thoughts are appreciated!
There’s definitely a learning curve to sanding a whole vehicle to a high level, so practice is key and I would take the advice and experience of the people around you if that’s their profession. Also grab yourself a few panels from a car wreckers at test the method you want to pursue out to see what you think.
Great video. Its unique to see other detailer process to produce show car finished. The jewelling process in the end stands out to me as all ive known for jewelling learning from other u tube video was to slow your arm movements. Is there any specific advantages to increase rather reduce arm movement speed during jewelling?
If you were so inclined during this process to repair the rock chips and the little dent , at what point would you do that.. before starting the sanding ? after, but before polishing? or after you've gotten all the orange peel and scratches/swirls out ?
You'd sand the whole bonnet down with around 320 grit, bare metal the areas of damage, fill, sand and spot prime then after the primer is dry use a guide coat and wet sand with a block and 600 grit the primer areas and the whole bonnet being careful on edges. After all that is done panel wipe down and then time for paint... Paint the areas of primer first before blending out in to the existing paint or even painting the whole bonnet depending on how much damage there is. Once the paint is done then lacquer using 3 coats of 2K lacquer, the first being a tack coat followed by two full costs with appropriate flash off times. After all this is done then you can perform the process as in this video once the lacquer is dry.
The work looks great and not trying to throw shade but am I wrong in thinking that 3M 1500 purple film is not designed for wet sanding but instead dry?
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you so much. Currently I have a little orange peel on my Audi A4. I'll make use of your technique. As it is a hard clear coat, I am thinking of using 1500 and 3000 grit, what do you think ? How many sand paper from each grid do you think I need to make the whole vehicle ? Regards.
1500 and 3000 is usually a good way to go for orange peel removal and if you’re doing the whole car and it’s a hard paint I’d be inclined to grab a box of each (10 discs)
So on clear coat you say car makers are making thinner clear coats. What year did they start doing this? I notice Hondas clear coats are fading on lots of cars. Is that proof that you are right about thinner clear coats or car owners do almost nothing to wax protect their paint to neglect as usual. I'm in the USA. Dying to get real answers on this.
Hello. New to the channel and an amature weekend warrior lol. I was wondering if you recomend this process on a black Ford f150 that has had several company decals removed and the glue residue still on panels. Thanks in advance.
would take me 4 days to do a full exterior detail, 8 hours per day. I would need to hand polish it, and then do 2 stage touch up paint, you would just take one look at it and cry
Hey sandro, is it okay to use a da polisher for wetsanding, or do you need to use a proper sander like the ones found in autobody shops? I dont mean for an entire car, just for certain sections such as a section of a car door or bumper
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing i have a 3inch da with a 8mm throw but unfortunately there doesnt seem to be sanding papers that come in a variety of grit papers produced by 3m for that size. Which sander would you suggest i buy (preferably rupes), and what air compressor would be needed to run a sander?
Hey Sandro, I only have a 21MM DA. I just hand block the lower grits but do you think a 21MM and my small 3” 15mm will be fine for 3000 trizact discs without causing pigtails?
Car Craft Auto Detailing alright thanks mate, will give it a go on the 21MM 👍🏻 did a bit on the 3” last night and got no pig tales. I like machine sanding the finer grits because it replaces all my straight sanding marks with circular scratches so I can tell when there all gone.
I have clay the paint compound , ultra fine polished I will used menzerna power lock plus sealer them wax collinete when I Jeweling should be after sealing or after wax I confused or after compound or after polish before sealant
Sandro, from my research right now. I'm getting confused on terms between single stage compound and one step compound/polish. Isn't single stage no clear coat on paint why are some referring single stage correction as AIO when its name suppose to be one step correction? Due to the inexperienced eyes, how would you know a one step is achieved?
Im removing orange peal from my honda accord. i try to work as clean as possible, cleaning the discs after completing 1 or 2 passes. but i still run into to pig tails. Any ideas? I run my DA at speed 1 or 2. Do you think thats the reason?
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing it's very catchy, inane but very catchy, that's one reason I stuck with the video, sorry, I mean good content, but that tune got stuck in my head
Hey hott-cakes, for years I've use only 3m trizact but have fallen in love with Mirka Abralon. They are all foam backed sanding discs and amazing. Have you tried them?
They are GREAT! I still use 3m Trizact 1500, 3000, and 5000 some but 90% of the time I use Mirka Abralon because they are cheap, consistent, safe, smooth, and because I get far less pigtails. Also, because it's thick and soft the risk of burning at edges/seams is greatly diminished. Do yourself a favor and at the very least try some of the 3" Mirka Abralon 1000grit and 2000grit sanding discs for headlights. I love how effective the 1000 grit discs are at damp sanding headlights. The 500grit is also great for trashed headlights. All grits perform best damp in my opinion. On headlights, I'll clean them and reuse them. I don't do this for paint though obviously. By the way, don't you get alot of pigtails sanding with a large-stroke electric polisher. Since I am not mobile I have been spoiled with the ability to use a pneumatic palm sander and pistol grip chicago pneumatic sander for all of my machine sanding. By the way, have you tried the Buff and Shine Uro-fiber pad yet?
I've watched about 20 videos on sanding and polishing. This is the best one so far. Thank you for sharing your craft!
Brother you just blew my mind with the finished results I never knew you can take clearcoat paint the far, this is the most helpful paint correction video I have seen yet
Great one Sandro. You are one of the all time masters of vehicle detailing and paint correction.
Amazing video, your not only a professional detailer, you explain things so well. Your youtube videos are edited perfectly and are one of the best of the best.
mirror finish .looks bloody fantastic,
great video.
Great job man really good, u have the voice for talking and demonstrating about detailing keep up d good works
You're a Pros Pro not only at Detailing but a Master at making videos too. Well done.
Wow, Sandro! Great finish. The metallic detail in the paint really shows through. Beautiful result.
Good stuff mate...It's easy and well deserved to be blown away with the after shots, but the most important advise for the viewers here IMO is residue management which starts with wash and decon phases and continues to the right throughout the process. It is more time consuming but allows as close to perfection as possible. In my experience it's better to go overtime on a job and follow your residue management plan than to hope it's going to turn out ok. Also check after each pass to be sure you have removed all marring/defects when compounding and polishing. There is nothing worse than inspecting the work at the end to find a section not corrected properly. If you have to go back and compound at this point the extra polishing and jeweling are the least of your worries. It's the dust that can disperse over car that will cause you the pain to swear and do these steps properly next time. Believe me this pain is not only monetary it's also physical and mental.
No worries mate...Hey AMMO just put a new vid up about Gloss. The Head Trainer from Rupes in Italy is involved. Worth a quick peek. Stay safe...
After watching many of your videos and studying them deeply, this was was the one that made me think 'I can do it'.I have a 10yr old white Peugeot Partner van that has been washed weekly but never garaged and is so oxidised it looks like chalk on close inspection. I bought a Shinemate EX603 and decided to try Scholl S20 Black with a blue spider pad and Menzerna 400+3500 with a Shinemate heavy cut green pad/Shinemate finishing red pad to see the difference. I decontaminated and was ready with the Carpro Eraser after every set of passes.I did not encounter the sheer volume of oxidation to come off after 8 passes on a 12inch square which completly clogged up the spider pad.After a second 8 passes using S20 Black, I was truely amazed with the shine and cleanness of the paint finish.I will compare the Menzerna method soon and check for differences.I am also planning to use at least two or three pads per van panel and wash them out and rid the oxidation to keep the pads abrasion.Is this a good idea or are there any other method to deal witth the oxidation?Can you do a video on the inspection lights you use? I did my first session under a tree to get good shade then used a large piece of MDF to create full shade for the best inspection conditions and this was just about good enough to see any missed oxidation spots or uncorrected areas.I've got the bug now and already have bought Solution Finish for the bleached out black trims and bumpers.
Wow great response you nailed it for sure. I see most everyone is they wash their car on the weekends at best..the wrong way. They use the classic I towel or wash mitt in same bucket over and over again scratching the paint week after week etc. I can't believe all over Internet, I'm sure you know pros using two bucket method with worthless grit guards still have rocks sand on mitts. Making tons of money selling wrong info/methods. 1 guy has it perfect 9th gen accord on you tube. Using 4 mitts never same mitt touches paint!! You are so right that most car owners don't wax often enough to protect clear coat especially ones that have cars sitting outside 24/7. Killer cold salty snow winters and blazing hot summers with pollen/ pollution baked in the clear coat just sitting in sun for months and older people can't hand wash/wax cars so they take to a drive thru car wash. UGhh they say why do I have so many scratches?? That's what I'm seeing from customers. Oh and we're just talking exteriors.
Best detailer on TH-cam! Gonna use this method on my car 👍 the trans is starting to go out so gonna be my guniea pig before I junk it. Its gonna be the best looking car at the junkyard haha
Love your videos!
Excellent instructional reference pieces.
The reflections are absolutely amazing.
just one word WOW!!!!!
Mirror finish, great job...
I can’t believe the results , great job!!!
Beautiful work! It really looks hardened and deep.
Another great video and skill.
Love from the uk 🇬🇧
Mark
I'd never do this as I'd more than likely screw my car up, but another great video for those who would.
👏👏👏 what a wizard!
I always enjoy watching the use and technique needed to apply the varied stages required to achieve a high standard of paint correction, high gloss and protected paint finish. Thanks.
Great explanation on the process, thank you!
Awsome work mate. love it.
Great video, dear chap.
Great video and excellent results. Thanks for making this
Again this was a great video what a nice job, the pictures a the end looks like f it was a mirror. Again thanks for the video.
Very helpful.Thanks for the great video
Excellent .really love this video
Great video
Nice work!
Great video bro , for an old junk panel it looks amazing . great job !
Outstanding video, thanks for taking time to do this. I guess those standing discs are not a one time only use.
That's a very good video!
I have csl and Exo on about year left the. I’m wet sanding looks like it going to be a whole weekend process maybe more maybe I should get someone to help me. Your videos are helpful
Great tutorial, Sandro, but just one question. Why does the wet sanding end at about 2000 or 2500 grit, to be followed by compounding? If wet sanding is efficient, why not keep stepping up the grits - 3000, 5000, 7000? I understand compound can cope with as low as 1500 grit sanding, but does that necessarily mean compounding should be used at that point? Why not just keep stepping up the wet sanding grits, and then go straight to polishing?
I’d say because you will still need to compound and polish to get the best finish so added more sanding steps may not necessarily be the most efficient way to go. But quite honestly there’s no set rules and you may find sanding longer with even finer grits sometimes works even better, it really depends on how hard the paint is and how good you are at dealing with more sensitive body lines safely.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks. I will keep experimenting with different methods. Perhaps the best solution will be to sand to about 5000, to minimize the need to compound, without eliminating that step. As you say, there are other variables to consider, and every job is at least a bit different.
Well done. How many hours did u spend on that hood itself? And it would be nice to have a video to teach the begginers how to use a rotary.
Nice and clean job!! What brand of sandpaper are you using? Thank you for your video
Thanks, by memory it a combination of 3M and SIA
Fantastic vid - few really explain the process of orange peel removal on here and those pictures at the end are UNBELIEVABLE! And I know they'll look even better in person because the camera never fully does them justice.
I've been practicing orange peel removal for a while on panels and the issue I'm having is that from a distance they look as yours did here, but upclose there is always minor waviness. It looks like minor orange peel in some areas, even though it's not. They still look dazzling and I KNOW it's not orange peel because when I resand there are no peaks. I must simply be levelling the texture but then causing unevenness between sanded areas perhaps. Have you ever dealt with that and overcome it, because I'm not sure how I'm doing it? You don't seem to have that issue. Any help appreciated. Maybe it's because I usually split panels like this into 4 and sand them individually, sometimes with different grits, meaning they'll definitely be uneven with each other even when the texture is levelled.
How you sand with the 1500 discs that have extraction holes I'll never know - all I ever get with them is pig tails!
Car Craft Auto Detailing thank you - when I give it a go on my next untouched panel I'll try a consistent grit approach and see if it works!
3m have a good wet sanding system it's called Trizact you should try it 👍🏼
Best vid on this! Does it make more sense to go up to 5000 grit so it polishes out very easy?
If you want to skip the compounding stage you certainly could continue to 5000g and just polish, but it’s really more of a personal preference, thanks.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing I recently got a dream job at a mustang resto shop. Watching you do it by machine really boosted my confidence to use the machines to save time hand sanding. But i think hard blocking with 1000 grit to start is a must to get every thing flat. Then I go 1500, 3000, 5000 then polish. Any thoughts are appreciated!
There’s definitely a learning curve to sanding a whole vehicle to a high level, so practice is key and I would take the advice and experience of the people around you if that’s their profession.
Also grab yourself a few panels from a car wreckers at test the method you want to pursue out to see what you think.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you for your expert opinion and vids.
Hi mate great job can you do the same with 2k paint
Yes you can
Great video. Its unique to see other detailer process to produce show car finished. The jewelling process in the end stands out to me as all ive known for jewelling learning from other u tube video was to slow your arm movements. Is there any specific advantages to increase rather reduce arm movement speed during jewelling?
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing fantastic.. Now will have to experiment with faster arm movement
Can I do this with a Rotary polisher? Any toughts?
If you were so inclined during this process to repair the rock chips and the little dent , at what point would you do that.. before starting the sanding ? after, but before polishing? or after you've gotten all the orange peel and scratches/swirls out ?
You'd sand the whole bonnet down with around 320 grit, bare metal the areas of damage, fill, sand and spot prime then after the primer is dry use a guide coat and wet sand with a block and 600 grit the primer areas and the whole bonnet being careful on edges.
After all that is done panel wipe down and then time for paint... Paint the areas of primer first before blending out in to the existing paint or even painting the whole bonnet depending on how much damage there is.
Once the paint is done then lacquer using 3 coats of 2K lacquer, the first being a tack coat followed by two full costs with appropriate flash off times.
After all this is done then you can perform the process as in this video once the lacquer is dry.
The work looks great and not trying to throw shade but am I wrong in thinking that 3M 1500 purple film is not designed for wet sanding but instead dry?
can you please do a video on your go to products? thanks
Nice work, What is your opinion on the Oslong 2500 discs ? Are they L 338 green ? Thanks
Hi sandro, can i use a da polisher for wet sanding ?
If so, what speed to take ?
This video should help using DAs to wet sand: th-cam.com/video/Wi0vqdMsA1o/w-d-xo.html
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thank you so much. Currently I have a little orange peel on my Audi A4. I'll make use of your technique. As it is a hard clear coat, I am thinking of using 1500 and 3000 grit, what do you think ? How many sand paper from each grid do you think I need to make the whole vehicle ?
Regards.
1500 and 3000 is usually a good way to go for orange peel removal and if you’re doing the whole car and it’s a hard paint I’d be inclined to grab a box of each (10 discs)
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks for these informations 👍
So on clear coat you say car makers are making thinner clear coats. What year did they start doing this? I notice Hondas clear coats are fading on lots of cars. Is that proof that you are right about thinner clear coats or car owners do almost nothing to wax protect their paint to neglect as usual. I'm in the USA. Dying to get real answers on this.
Wow 5 step waxing would be 6 step. Amazing !
Dont forget the sealant, making for 7 step
@@erichelms8168 or glaze 8 steps hahah
Hello. New to the channel and an amature weekend warrior lol. I was wondering if you recomend this process on a black Ford f150 that has had several company decals removed and the glue residue still on panels. Thanks in advance.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing Thanks for the info and fast response. Love your work.
would take me 4 days to do a full exterior detail, 8 hours per day.
I would need to hand polish it, and then do 2 stage touch up paint, you would just take one look at it and cry
Could I ask what paint thickness you started with and how much you removed in the process?
Hey sandro, is it okay to use a da polisher for wetsanding, or do you need to use a proper sander like the ones found in autobody shops? I dont mean for an entire car, just for certain sections such as a section of a car door or bumper
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing i have a 3inch da with a 8mm throw but unfortunately there doesnt seem to be sanding papers that come in a variety of grit papers produced by 3m for that size. Which sander would you suggest i buy (preferably rupes), and what air compressor would be needed to run a sander?
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing thank you so much for your help
If the car has orange peel, how can you determine if it's in the base coat, clear coat, or both?
Hey Sandro, I only have a 21MM DA. I just hand block the lower grits but do you think a 21MM and my small 3” 15mm will be fine for 3000 trizact discs without causing pigtails?
Sorry the 3” Is 12mm. Do you think it would appropriate to do all my sanding with the 3”? Worried that the 21MM will cause heaps of pigtails
Car Craft Auto Detailing alright thanks mate, will give it a go on the 21MM 👍🏻 did a bit on the 3” last night and got no pig tales. I like machine sanding the finer grits because it replaces all my straight sanding marks with circular scratches so I can tell when there all gone.
I have clay the paint compound , ultra fine polished I will used menzerna power lock plus sealer
them wax collinete when I Jeweling should be after sealing or after wax I confused or after compound or after polish before sealant
Car Craft Auto Detailing thank you so much again
Ok so what are durable waxes sealants? Is that in your waxes video?
Sandro, from my research right now. I'm getting confused on terms between single stage compound and one step compound/polish.
Isn't single stage no clear coat on paint why are some referring single stage correction as AIO when its name suppose to be one step correction?
Due to the inexperienced eyes, how would you know a one step is achieved?
how much clear was removed from start to finish in this video?
Im removing orange peal from my honda accord. i try to work as clean as possible, cleaning the discs after completing 1 or 2 passes. but i still run into to pig tails. Any ideas? I run my DA at speed 1 or 2. Do you think thats the reason?
Hello can I used my griot DA and lake country jeweling pads in the jeweling stage
Car Craft Auto Detailing thank you so much
You videos are so well explained and easy to follow
i like the background music, whom is it
I now list all the music in the description box of my new videos, but I unfortunately don’t have that info for the much older videos.
@@CarCraftAutoDetailing it's very catchy, inane but very catchy, that's one reason I stuck with the video, sorry, I mean good content, but that tune got stuck in my head
one question. what are you spraying on the car after you compound it?
Car Craft Auto Detailing thanks for your reply
Hey hott-cakes, for years I've use only 3m trizact but have fallen in love with Mirka Abralon. They are all foam backed sanding discs and amazing. Have you tried them?
They are GREAT! I still use 3m Trizact 1500, 3000, and 5000 some but 90% of the time I use Mirka Abralon because they are cheap, consistent, safe, smooth, and because I get far less pigtails. Also, because it's thick and soft the risk of burning at edges/seams is greatly diminished.
Do yourself a favor and at the very least try some of the 3" Mirka Abralon 1000grit and 2000grit sanding discs for headlights. I love how effective the 1000 grit discs are at damp sanding headlights. The 500grit is also great for trashed headlights. All grits perform best damp in my opinion. On headlights, I'll clean them and reuse them. I don't do this for paint though obviously.
By the way, don't you get alot of pigtails sanding with a large-stroke electric polisher. Since I am not mobile I have been spoiled with the ability to use a pneumatic palm sander and pistol grip chicago pneumatic sander for all of my machine sanding.
By the way, have you tried the Buff and Shine Uro-fiber pad yet?
Agreed about the Mirka. I didn't want to pay the premium cost for the 3M, but wow, the Mirka stuff is good.
What foam pads are you using here, both the red and yellow pads?
I am based in the US, where can I get these pads? are they comparable to the rupes pads?
Merhaba, bunu beyaz boyada uygulamak mümkün mü?
How much speed we have to maintain in RUPES MARK III with Menzerna 3500 & Shinemate Red foam pad for jewelling stage ?
You just want to use the slowest machine speed that keeps the pad spinning - usually 3-4
Thanks a lot
If I don’t have the shinemate red pad, shall I use black/grey shinemate finishing pad ?
Yes that pad can also be used for jeweling
Would you be kind enough to list the tools and materials you used for the job? Or better still update the video. Ta!
Well done mate, the Yankee videos all 80% talk and no actual action.
that is full hd reflection
First video i dont agree... this is a dry sanding disc and not for this kind of polisher... iam using the same disc dry with a 3mm throw rupes scorpio
Car Craft Auto Detailing thats right. By the way... i like your videos. Keep on going
damn
your gutters need cleaning