Wow, that’s one of the best shells I’ve seen. Even 25 years ago it was hard to find one that clean under the screens, and those sill ends are beautiful. Very solid foundation to build from. The VK Calais boot lid adds extra work - having to weld up all those extra holes, but I’m sure you’ll be all over it. Clever work on your DiY pin remover. Commercial ones were rare, and very expensive back in the day, so I made a long slide hammer style one with the centre spindle from a 20mb HDD (yes, 20mb) as the weight. Made short work of them, especially after a daily soaking in WD40 for a week before pulling them. This is going to be a nice build.
@commodorenut thanks mate. I'm mighty happy with the shell. Wasn't aware it was a VK Bootlid, learn something new every day. Those door pins were certainly a challenge. 😀 cheers
For the door pins, there is a door pin removal tool you can get from super cheap for around $40. Pins will be out in 5 minutes. The top pin comes out downwards, and the bottom pin comes out upwards with the correct tool. 👍
That is a great example of a VH. Not much cancer at all for the age. Even the bog work looks light. I'm glad that there's no pitting, just before you said that, it was my first thought if there was cancer under the primer.. Roofs are usually the most exposed. If you can getaway withno skimming and keep everything clean and dry, you're off to a great start.
Yes there is a tool to remove the hinge pins . Using a alternator case bolt 85 ml long and with a nut to suit ground to size to fit the pin hole round . And some pieces of flat steel size 250 long x 25 x 6 thick welded to gether at one end about 70 from one end with a gap at one end to fit the shank of bolt at head end , a recess back cut at welded end leaving 8 Mil tip from one side then back cut the rest back about 30 leaving an angle cut. As mentioned gap length 6 ml . Then you insert the bolt through pin abs screw rounded nut on bolt ! Must go on easley screw down full nut and half ,this leaves the bolt hanging out so you can insert the plate bar flat side to head 90 to 100 ml back you can use a hammer to hit bar while holding the long end with the other hand ? This for top bolts ! For bottom bolts you insert the bolt down front top for hinge and tap up wards ! AND YES THESE PINS CAN BE HARD TO REMOVE ?
@ToxicGarageCustoms hope that helps along the way I am in the process of the same thing AND the same colour to .I finished the first one in 2016 it is a lot of work to .
Really tidy looking car! Definitely going to grow your channel building an early commodore. I love early commodores and it's good to see them being built. I've had a couple The piece welded on behind where the bumper goes isn't factory! There's a channel ckpaint and panel. He sells hand made rear rust repair sections. The ones from rare spares arent 100% He builds alot of early commodores.
Hi your vh commodore is in it's undies and at this time you are best to strip all the old work to bare metal if you want your job you to last! Going over old shit your work won't last very long with all the time and money you put in it not going to last very long, how long I can't tell you will be very upsetting for you! It won't last 15years or a life time went the car is looked after! Just trying to help Stephen
Wow, that’s one of the best shells I’ve seen. Even 25 years ago it was hard to find one that clean under the screens, and those sill ends are beautiful. Very solid foundation to build from. The VK Calais boot lid adds extra work - having to weld up all those extra holes, but I’m sure you’ll be all over it. Clever work on your DiY pin remover. Commercial ones were rare, and very expensive back in the day, so I made a long slide hammer style one with the centre spindle from a 20mb HDD (yes, 20mb) as the weight. Made short work of them, especially after a daily soaking in WD40 for a week before pulling them. This is going to be a nice build.
@commodorenut thanks mate. I'm mighty happy with the shell. Wasn't aware it was a VK Bootlid, learn something new every day. Those door pins were certainly a challenge. 😀 cheers
I used a slide hammer with threaded nut on the end made it so easy to get them out
@@anthonystone7578 did that work OK?
For the door pins, there is a door pin removal tool you can get from super cheap for around $40. Pins will be out in 5 minutes. The top pin comes out downwards, and the bottom pin comes out upwards with the correct tool. 👍
@@shaneh9345 Fantastic, thanks for the tip. I thought there must be an easier way. Cheers
Pretty solid looking car
@@dondavis6997 Agreed
Hey if you are painting it red gold V 51 Simmons would look Awesome on it.
@@rodneyratcliffe7749 they are a very nice wheel, I agree
That is a great example of a VH. Not much cancer at all for the age. Even the bog work looks light. I'm glad that there's no pitting, just before you said that, it was my first thought if there was cancer under the primer.. Roofs are usually the most exposed. If you can getaway withno skimming and keep everything clean and dry, you're off to a great start.
@@davidvincent2838 Yep, I think I got a good one. Thanks for watching, I hope you enjoy the build. Cheers
Yes there is a tool to remove the hinge pins . Using a alternator case bolt 85 ml long and with a nut to suit ground to size to fit the pin hole round . And some pieces of flat steel size 250 long x 25 x 6 thick welded to gether at one end about 70 from one end with a gap at one end to fit the shank of bolt at head end , a recess back cut at welded end leaving 8 Mil tip from one side then back cut the rest back about 30 leaving an angle cut. As mentioned gap length 6 ml . Then you insert the bolt through pin abs screw rounded nut on bolt ! Must go on easley screw down full nut and half ,this leaves the bolt hanging out so you can insert the plate bar flat side to head 90 to 100 ml back you can use a hammer to hit bar while holding the long end with the other hand ? This for top bolts ! For bottom bolts you insert the bolt down front top for hinge and tap up wards ! AND YES THESE PINS CAN BE HARD TO REMOVE ?
@bobbritten5673 now that's is someone speaking from experience. Great explanation thanks mate. I really appreciate your time to comment. 🍻
@ToxicGarageCustoms hope that helps along the way I am in the process of the same thing AND the same colour to .I finished the first one in 2016 it is a lot of work to .
@bobbritten5673 thanks mate. Good luck with you build too.
Really tidy looking car! Definitely going to grow your channel building an early commodore. I love early commodores and it's good to see them being built. I've had a couple The piece welded on behind where the bumper goes isn't factory! There's a channel ckpaint and panel. He sells hand made rear rust repair sections. The ones from rare spares arent 100% He builds alot of early commodores.
@aaronaaron5356 Fantastic info about the rear panel thanks mate. I'll get onto ckpanel. Cheers
I think you got a pretty good deal on the car
@dondavis6997 I am happy with what I am seeing. Time will tell, when I get into the drivetrain.
G'day there, do you apply your filler over bare metal or over epoxy?
@@job7016 I seal the bare metal with epoxy and then apply my filler.
Would’ve been a nice car when new. Do you know what model designation it was, Todd? SL or SL/X?
@@benbowles1014 it was an SL mate.
@, I thought the VH HDT’s were SL based, so pretty appropriate given your plans for your car.
@benbowles1014 I am no expert, but I kind of figured the same thing.
And what do the shop inspector say
@dondavis6997 oh boy, they kept telling me I'd missed spots. Very picky.
Hi your vh commodore is in it's undies and at this time you are best to strip all the old work to bare metal if you want your job you to last! Going over old shit your work won't last very long with all the time and money you put in it not going to last very long, how long I can't tell you will be very upsetting for you! It won't last 15years or a life time went the car is looked after! Just trying to help Stephen
@stephencambridge5788 thanks mate. Yep, I have made the decision to bare metal everything. Cheers