I am brand new to muzzleloaders. All things considered, building a flintlock, maintaining flints, making my own gunpowder, and balls is totally fascinating. I am not new to building firearms and I am going to enjoy this very much. Modern firearms are great fun, but these old guns are works of art.
I mean your video is a great help for many and helps to keep our sport alive - thank you very much for that! I'm lucky that there is a black flint on the beach of the island of Rügen on the Baltic Sea in Germany and a red flint on the beach of the island of Helgoland in the North Sea. About 15 years ago, an antiquity researcher and archeology professor visited us in our rifle club and brought a black flint nodule from the Baltic Sea with him for his original Brown Bess musket from about 1740. As well as the traditional wooden tools and leather aprons of the craftsmen from the time when the flints for the muskets were cut. It was a lot of fun for us to find out the technique of beating to make your own flints. A very good friend of mine, who has unfortunately since passed away, showed a great deal of skill here and supplied us with flints he had hewn himself, which were absolutely perfect. This historical project ran for almost a year and in the end the professor was a proven expert in flintlock weapons and everything that goes with them, exclusively with historical means. Only the attempt makes you smart - experimental archeology.
I started muzzleloading when I was 14 (39 now), when I got a new Traditions Hawken Woodsman, in .50 caliber percussion. A couple years ago I built myself a flintlock, more or less in the style of a full stock Hawken, with a hodgepodge of parts that suited my liking. It's a heavy beast, with a .54 caliber straight, 36" barrel, one inch across the flats. Plan to use it for bears. I'm getting the itch to build another gun, but trying to decide between a .58 half stock hawken, or an English trade gun.
You've been a great help. I began with black powder decades ago, and never liked percussion caps with their habit of falling off or splitting, not providing a proof positive spark for ignition of the powder charge. Saving funds for a well made kit, as the custom option is just too costly a way to go. Thank You.
Always good, concise, information. I don't have a flintlock, yet. Pretty sure I'll pick one up before too long so every time I can, I sit for a lesson from your video series! Thank you. A good source for those of us just starting this journey.
Thank you for this video. I am having my first flintlock built and this is something that I will need to know. I could have used this info last week when a new flintlock shooter was at my range and needed to change flints. Unfortunately he did not have the proper sized flints for his lock.
Thank you! I have been looking for this information. How to size the flint so I know which to buy and setting it properly in the lock. This was clear and complete information.
Regarding sawcut flints, such as those packaged for Thompson Center, I have sharpened them on a diamond knife sharpening stone. I wet the stone and stroke the angled face of the flint in a figure 8 - similar to lapping steel parts. It takes some patience, but it works.
I saw a guy using those cut flints in his pistol at a State match once. He had a diamond file shaped to sharpen the flint in the jaws of the pistol. It was working well for him, his ignition was very fast. I have just never tried them myself.
One outfit was casting 'flints' using some kind of resin that had iron pyrite grains suspended in it. Sparked like crazy, but ATE frizzens! I'd avoid them entirely.
In over forty years of hunting with a flinter I have followed your practice and never once had a misfire hunting. I would say that bigger locks like yours or up to military locks get a lot more shots then small locks like the small Siler Of note: ledgers show one flint being issued in New France, French Canada, for every sixteen shots
I have had only one misfire with my flintlocks. Was hunting rabbits during some very cold, damp weather. So damp, I was priming the pan with 2-f. Got a "clach". Looked down and no powder in the pan. The powder had frozen to the bottom of the frizzen and was stuck there when the frizzen opened. Now, I am sure to wipe that part of the frizzen.
Good video as usual. We have lots of Burlington chert around here. Some use it for gunflints and I intend to as well. That said I need to practice alot lol
I have not tried chert in my lock but that is what I use for flint and steel fire starting competition. I'm confident it would work as I have won those contests with times under 3 seconds. If you can knapp it to the proper shape and size to fit your lock it should be good.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 I just got a flint and steel fire starter. Made some char cloth and tried it out and I was successful my first try. I'm really getting into this. BTW I am on your Facebook page now.
Hey Steve, I’m a newbie to knapping flint. You demonstrated removing material from the beveled side of the flint. Does it matter what side you remove material whether bevel up, or down? Thanks for your videos, Wayne
It matters if you want to get the most life from your flints. Take the flakes off of the beveled side to keep the edge of the flint level with the non- beveled side. Regardless of how you place the flint in the jaws (bevel up or down). Others folks will do it differently and some don't bother to re-sharpen a flint at all. They just toss them when dull. Knapping a used flint sharp again instead of replacing it just seems frugal to me. I often wonder if that's where the term "skin flint" originated. Too cheap to buy new a new flint! LOL
Keith, I thought I had replied to your question but I don't see it now. If your frizzen was hardened and tempered through and through you can grind the face smooth again and be good. If it is one of those imported locks, the frizzen is likely only surface hardened. In that case you would be better to replace it. The only other option is to have a smith weld a shoe to the face of your frizzen then harden and temper it. If it is throwing good sparks and not eating up your flints as it is I'd say just keep shooting it.
Truer words were never spoken...15:56
hahahahaha
I lived in New Mexico half my life and I am very pleased that a Newf Mexican has sound knowledge to share about Black Powder Flintlocks.
Thank you sir.
I am brand new to muzzleloaders.
All things considered, building a flintlock, maintaining flints, making my own gunpowder, and balls is totally fascinating. I am not new to building firearms and I am going to enjoy this very much.
Modern firearms are great fun, but these old guns are works of art.
Welcome to the dark side!
Thanks for sharing your insight and expertise. Look forward to the next video.
Thanks for watching!
I mean your video is a great help for many and helps to keep our sport alive - thank you very much for that!
I'm lucky that there is a black flint on the beach of the island of Rügen on the Baltic Sea in Germany and a red flint on the beach of the island of Helgoland in the North Sea. About 15 years ago, an antiquity researcher and archeology professor visited us in our rifle club and brought a black flint nodule from the Baltic Sea with him for his original Brown Bess musket from about 1740. As well as the traditional wooden tools and leather aprons of the craftsmen from the time when the flints for the muskets were cut. It was a lot of fun for us to find out the technique of beating to make your own flints. A very good friend of mine, who has unfortunately since passed away, showed a great deal of skill here and supplied us with flints he had hewn himself, which were absolutely perfect. This historical project ran for almost a year and in the end the professor was a proven expert in flintlock weapons and everything that goes with them, exclusively with historical means. Only the attempt makes you smart - experimental archeology.
Thank you.
I've had very good luck with the TOTW English flints as well. Very good advice and demonstration.
Thanks 👍
I started muzzleloading when I was 14 (39 now), when I got a new Traditions Hawken Woodsman, in .50 caliber percussion. A couple years ago I built myself a flintlock, more or less in the style of a full stock Hawken, with a hodgepodge of parts that suited my liking. It's a heavy beast, with a .54 caliber straight, 36" barrel, one inch across the flats. Plan to use it for bears. I'm getting the itch to build another gun, but trying to decide between a .58 half stock hawken, or an English trade gun.
Great video on a flintlock maintenance necessity.
Thank you
You've been a great help. I began with black powder decades ago, and never liked percussion caps with their habit of falling off or splitting, not providing a proof positive spark for ignition of the powder charge. Saving funds for a well made kit, as the custom option is just too costly a way to go. Thank You.
This is very timely as I have new flints coming tomorrow for my rifle! Thank you.
I hope it helps you. Thanks.
Excellent video. I'm going to try your way of managing flints. Thanks.
I hope it works for you.
Always good, concise, information. I don't have a flintlock, yet. Pretty sure I'll pick one up before too long so every time I can, I sit for a lesson from your video series! Thank you. A good source for those of us just starting this journey.
Thank you. The best advice I have is don't buy a cheap imported flintlock. Get a good custom built lock. It is the heart of a flintlock gun.
Thank you for this video. I am having my first flintlock built and this is something that I will need to know. I could have used this info last week when a new flintlock shooter was at my range and needed to change flints. Unfortunately he did not have the proper sized flints for his lock.
Good luck with your new flintlock. And welcome to the dark side.
This is an excellent instructional video. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you! I have been looking for this information. How to size the flint so I know which to buy and setting it properly in the lock. This was clear and complete information.
Glad I could help!
Amazing now I understand my gun better. Thanks for sharing
Very welcome.
Great video and advice .I,ll be trying your way of knapping flints .Might great more life out of them then knapping in the lock.Cheers
Thanks for your comment. I believe your flints will last longer with that method.
That way of knapping is so good, thanks!
You bet!
yes you have been very helpful. thank you for your help.
You are so welcome!
Great video with great closeups! Thank you!
Really liked the flint snapping demonstration.
Thank you.
“The last thing you want to do is break your cock.” (15:56) 😅
Sir, with this point I must agree. God bless. Helpful video.
Thank you for the great information!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this video, now I will nap my flints sharp again! 👌🤠👍
Happy to help!
Regarding sawcut flints, such as those packaged for Thompson Center, I have sharpened them on a diamond knife sharpening stone. I wet the stone and stroke the angled face of the flint in a figure 8 - similar to lapping steel parts. It takes some patience, but it works.
I saw a guy using those cut flints in his pistol at a State match once. He had a diamond file shaped to sharpen the flint in the jaws of the pistol. It was working well for him, his ignition was very fast. I have just never tried them myself.
One outfit was casting 'flints' using some kind of resin that had iron pyrite grains suspended in it. Sparked like crazy, but ATE frizzens!
I'd avoid them entirely.
In over forty years of hunting with a flinter I have followed your practice and never once had a misfire hunting.
I would say that bigger locks like yours or up to military locks get a lot more shots then small locks like the small Siler
Of note: ledgers show one flint being issued in New France, French Canada, for every sixteen shots
I have had only one misfire with my flintlocks. Was hunting rabbits during some very cold, damp weather. So damp, I was priming the pan with 2-f. Got a "clach". Looked down and no powder in the pan. The powder had frozen to the bottom of the frizzen and was stuck there when the frizzen opened. Now, I am sure to wipe that part of the frizzen.
Excelent tutorial
Thank you
15:59
Spat out my coffee.
I wasn't sure I would be able to dead pan that. : )
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Oh you did! Far better than I could for sure.
Good video as usual. We have lots of Burlington chert around here. Some use it for gunflints and I intend to as well. That said I need to practice alot lol
I have not tried chert in my lock but that is what I use for flint and steel fire starting competition. I'm confident it would work as I have won those contests with times under 3 seconds. If you can knapp it to the proper shape and size to fit your lock it should be good.
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 I just got a flint and steel fire starter. Made some char cloth and tried it out and I was successful my first try. I'm really getting into this. BTW I am on your Facebook page now.
That's great. A lot of information on my website: traditionalmuzzleloader.com
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 yeah, I've been on that website before. For some reason i didn't connect that site with your TH-cam page. So now I know.
Hey Steve, I’m a newbie to knapping flint. You demonstrated removing material from the beveled side of the flint. Does it matter what side you remove material whether bevel up, or down?
Thanks for your videos, Wayne
It matters if you want to get the most life from your flints. Take the flakes off of the beveled side to keep the edge of the flint level with the non- beveled side. Regardless of how you place the flint in the jaws (bevel up or down).
Others folks will do it differently and some don't bother to re-sharpen a flint at all. They just toss them when dull.
Knapping a used flint sharp again instead of replacing it just seems frugal to me. I often wonder if that's where the term "skin flint" originated. Too cheap to buy new a new flint! LOL
@@traditionalmuzzleloader4983 Thanks Steve, I’ll be knapping my flints as long as I can.
👍
I have been shooting a flint lock for 25 years and the frizzen. Has considerable ware should I replace it?
Thanks in advance
Keith
Keith, I thought I had replied to your question but I don't see it now. If your frizzen was hardened and tempered through and through you can grind the face smooth again and be good. If it is one of those imported locks, the frizzen is likely only surface hardened. In that case you would be better to replace it. The only other option is to have a smith weld a shoe to the face of your frizzen then harden and temper it. If it is throwing good sparks and not eating up your flints as it is I'd say just keep shooting it.
Does Mama know that you are on her floral table cloth?
: ) I got permission first.
❤😊
Bevel up for sure
Where would one find the stepped rod he is using ?
I got it from one of the on-line vendors. I don't remember which one.
You could also get something like a 1/4 rod and chuck it in a drill / drill press, and file it down a bit to your liking