WOW...sure wish this one was posted back in 2013 when I started. It would have saved a lot of headaches & I would still have extra flints in the pouch. Well done Bob.....
I believe you gonna get me to step up my game with a custom flintlock. This video answered most of my questions that have been stopping me from getting one, thanks Bob!
I got into muzzleloading for pretty much the same reason everyone in my generation did. Fess Parker. So of course my first gun was a flintlock longrifle 50 years ago. I had NOBODY to teach me anything about it so I eventually got frustrated and bought a percussion. I've since been cured and rehabilitated. But it really helps to have someone teach you the ins and outs of flinting.
Best training lesson on setting up your flint and knapping ever! Most flints set to high on my frizzen and shimming down a bit to lower the strike and not come in at 90 degrees was very helpfull. I cut a small strip of lead and worked as well as leather. For knapping, a small roll punch that can double as the flint screw tighener instead of a screw driver - as long as your screw has a hole too! I have also had great luck on using flints past their working life by sharpening with a Harbor Freight $9.00 diamond wheel. Cuts hard flints like butter, put on a nice bevel and knapp away.
Have we all made the mistake early on in our flitner shooting that the corner of the flint hits the barrel? I know i did and its a lesson I took to heart. In my case I didnt notice the flint turned slightly at the range and then the next shot scored the barrel. So not only check the flint on replacement, but after every shot. That incident taught me that lesson.
Thanks to you and Black Powder Maniac, I now have a baggie full of newly and correctly sharpened flints. All along, I had learned the wrong way to try to knap the flints (I won't go into that, but suffice to say I picked it up from reading and not from video).
I wish we had all these videos when I started out. A lot of the things you are telling folks not to do I learned the hard way. Now, I feel like a dummy. LOL. Good video Bobby!
Great videos. On this one I’d like to see the view of the tool knapping the flint instead of the view from about. This inspired me to get more miles out of my flints. Thank you, dc
I need more time and experience with more reliable fast ignition! THANK YOU SIR! May I have Another? Cooking my cert Flint boulders in my campfire "TONIGHT!" to try to temper for better napping. Working out better carbons too for my BP. tonight is corn mash sugared and ready to pitch yeast, old bread, and guava branches. Next is color case hardening, gotta do more polishing. But I did my leather JUST the same way before I watched. I used an OLD bronze welding tip to start my flint tools. Keep those Smoke Poles SMOKING! it is an ADICTION! My GOD that is a GREAT Looking Flint lock.
He sure does know his stuff. And videos like this make us more interested and less scared of buying a flintlock. When hunting, I guess we just lightly nap it just in case?
Interesting vice. Have you ever done a vid on basic tools/shop/bench for flintlock build/repair? I’d be interested in that type info. Great videos all around 👍.
Learning a lot of good things from you Bob . Can't wait to put it all to use when i get my first flintlock gun , a TVM Southern rifle . Should have it in late winter .
Thanks! I appreciate it! Sounds awesome! I love southern guns! Feel free to ask any questions you have or idea for a video you might want to see! bob@blackpowdertv.com
as always good info Bob. I like lead to hold the flint in the jaws. it works better and holds tighter for me than leather. I have two whole vintage shower tubs that was made of thin soft lead. I just take some tin snips and cut a piece off when I need a new one. for new viewers who want to try lead in the jaws instead of leather, you can beat a lead ball flat and use that,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
OLSKOOL It’s a good idea and historically correct particularly for large robust lock like you find on military muskets. Keep it really thin though because the added weight can be too much for some locks if it’s too thick. Thanks Olskool!
I've made a couple flints from some local black chert in we have in VT.Alot of times too when the flints I buy have a super huge hump in them I'll take a masonry wheel on the angle grinder and reduce the hump about half.I think they tighten better in the jaws that way,but most run them without doing that and work fine.I use leather but want to try some sheet lead also.Semper Fi brother.
Semper Fi! Once I get a stack of humpy flints I do the same. I should’ve mentioned that in the vid. Be careful with sheet lead in smaller locks, especially in Chambers locks, they are tuned for leather and the added weight can snap the cock and it will void the warranty. I like lead in big musket locks. Thanks for the great comment!
I never considered the lock’s notch! Great insight! 👍😊 Wish I had a big, fat jar of fresh flints or a flint mine. 😂 My Pedersoli fowler is eating flints so I’ll be an expert soon enuff.
Bob what is the tiny screw inside my lock on the top of the tumbler pointing down? also sometime could you show a real closeup of the lock and explain how each part works and how to adjust them? Thanks for providing this site I'm learning a lot, Mike
Mike, send a pic of the screw you’re referring to to bob@blackpowdertv.com. The screws in a traditional lock all hold the parts on the plate. I’ll add a lock video to my list of vids for the next month. Thanks!
Bob I’ve seen natural flints that don’t have the pronounced hump on the one side of the flint. Is that a specific type who cuts the and where can they be purchased? As usual great video very informative!
Thanks for the kind words! It’s a traditional form used by the English and French c1750ish. They were not always like that but they often were. I buy them from trackofthewolf.com or trade shows.
You don’t need a nap the flint. It comes quite sharp. After a firing maybe 100 rounds or so it may not want to spark. You do not have to nap it. All you need to do is loosen the screw barely move the flint, sometimes just loosening push it back to tighten and it’s done deal. You have a different surface point and it will spark. Napping the flint you just wear it out. The rest of his information was very good!
Yes, you don't have to knap a flint when you get it, they indeed do come sharp, but after shooting as you say, up to 100 shots, they are no longer sharp. I've never heard of just wiggling the flint around a bit and she's good as new. That said, I don't always knap them unless I need to squeeze a few more shots out of it. I usually just pitch them. Learn something new every day... Thanks!
Great video Bob. Glad to see this one. I can knap a flint well enough to get it sparking again but I'm definitely interested in learning more about improving my technique. I'm going to have to tie a string to my finger to remind myself to pick up some brass rod next time I go to town. Keep em coming. Mike
I’m having difficulty with ignition with my Pedersoli 62 Indian trade gun. This is a new muzzleloader for me. I have no issues with my Kentucky 45 rifle and pistol. Some folks say to use the flint bevel down in that gun. I’ve learned a lot from the video, thank for making it. Any further advise would be appreciated
Roger Pilon Are you getting enough sparks that your priming is going off? If your primer is going off but your not igniting the main charge I’d make sure to prick your charge before the shot. If that doesn’t help you should open your touch hole a bit. If you aren’t getting sparks off the frizzen make sure you don’t have oil on the flint or frizzen. Wipe with a bit of alcohol. If that doesn’t work your frizzen may need rehardening or replaced.
Black Powder TV thanks for the advice, I should have mentioned, my priming charge is not going off, I am getting spark, but not much. I will try the alcohol first and other things you mentioned. Living in Canada limits my options. Much obliged for the help.
Im gonna have watch this again, when I finally get a flintlock. I looked into converting my Traditions perc. caplock into flintlock, there lock is not too impressive, after looking at silar, chambers, kiblers locks. Decided its not worth it to go that way, better to keep those as caps. Gonna have to keep saving up. Godspeed
Thanks MrD. Yep, when you’re ready to switch to flintlock you’ll find they’re much more finicky than cap locks and require the best lock you can get. An average lock cost 150$ and the best cost $275. It’s not a huge difference.
Setting up my flint I noticed when at 1/2 cock, the frizzen was pushed slightly forward. This left a space over the flash pan. I was able to correct that. Just something to look for when setting the flint.
Alittle late to the video but I have a question. I live here in the Flinthills of Kansas. I’m wondering if this flint is any good for making some flints for my flintlock? Have learned alot from your videos. Thankyou for all the work and knowledge you share.
I just bought a flintlock, I haven’t received it yet. I assume the flint being sharpened makes better sparks by your video. I am a traditional bow hunter and do some knapping for arrow points myself. just curious, but have you ever tried a copper nail driven in a good stick and sharpened? That’s a go to pressure flaker for making points. Do you have a recommended supplier for flint? I’m interested in the desired shape. Kinda wondering if broken points will work.
I dont remember. Amazon maybe? I do remember it was on the expensive side (70$?) and a well made one with the ‘tea stain’ patina. Super nice and durable. Very believable aging. 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV nice, I just finished building a Haines in 45 and my wife is cool with me hanging it in the living room. I want that flag for under it...
Man I'm glad I discovered your channel. I'm learning A LOT. How about taking the barrel off? Is that something you could do a video on? Or more importantly, how often or why would we need to? I've owned my fowler for 3 years and got to admit, I've never taken it off cuz I'm scared I'll mess something up. I've just always wondered about it. Thank you
Great idea. I will put it on my video list as my farm range is closed during hunting season and I’ll be doing hunting and shop videos over the winter. Maybe I’ll do it next week. I take the barrel off once a year for a deep clean, or if it gets really rained on. Cleaning the bore often gets a bit of water under the stock. When it’s off rub the bottom of the barrel with RIG (rust inhibiting grease) and you’ll be ok for another year. If you get it off and find some surface rust, simply use scotchbrite, 320 sandpaper, or steel wool to remove it before greasing.
@@BlackPowderTV thank you sir. There's nothing out there anywhere on taking the barrel off for cleaning that I've found. I've never seen a video or read an article on it anywhere. So definitely looking forward to any tips and tricks before I attempt it myself.
@@BlackPowderTV Could you also please cover adjustment of touch hole liner? I had to pull mine recently. Last time I shot, I pulled the barrel and noted I was getting powder residue under the lock and barrel. Screw slot points right under it... Thank you
Where did you get your flint? I just got a 65 cal pistol I want to be able to shoot, it has a flint but it’s been shot so many times it doesn’t strike the way it should.
Yes sir. A hair smaller is ok. Most places like TOTW list their flints by width so just make sure you don't have any overhang. You may have to offset your flint a little bit outboard to keep it from hitting the barrel but the largest flint smaller than your frizzen will get you your best performance.
@@BlackPowderTV Thanks Bob...I put out a wanted post on ALR to see if it turns up anything. If I find someone I'll pass it along . Sorry for all the questions...I'm working my way through your old videos. You have a knack for TH-cam.
when you were looking at installation orientation & explaining, re 90 degrees ect.. viewer can see nothing.. hand obstructs all view of flint when you are "tapping" , how far should flint protrude? as a begining "flintlock" user,, i need to know... maybe its good to shooters who know a little already?? i've never fired a flint rifle,, but should have one within the week..
I’m wondering if it’s any better or easier to nap a flint OFF of the rifle? I’m just not sure what the best way to hold it without crushing it in a vise
Question: I accidentally ordered the wrong size flints. They work fine get quick ignition but are WAY narrower than the frizzen. Will this damage my frizzen over time or should I just use em and get wider ones when they wear out?
Very, very informative. How many shots do you usually get out of a flint before you have to get a new one? Is that your 32 cal you have the sun shades for? Very beautiful gun.
@@BlackPowderTV Bob, do you think a shade would help me with my Lyman GPR? I have the removable Lyman rear peep, but didn't change the front because I still want to be able to shoot at our off hand matches. I just need to get a piece of brass pipe, and cut it to where it fits snugly against the barrel, right?
I think it’s worth a try and it’ll surely help. I’d go to Lowe’s and get a piece of sheet brass or bronze. I think it’s in the hobby section on the screw isle. Thinner the better so you can adjust it. Find something to bend it around that fits. A piece of 1” pvc pipe, a broomstick, or anything round.
Hey Joe. There is a general consensus among guys who either shoot a lot or shoot competitively that they don’t hold up or hold an edge. I agree. They will fire your flintlock but if 40 or more shots in a row without a misfire is important go with black English or yellow French knapped flints. It does take a lock that is nicely balanced in regard to their springs, and tuned well, but flints are a big part of consistency. This is not to say you might have good luck with them but I couldn’t get them to run very well on my guns with tuned Chambers locks.
I have used all types. The pre-cut on each end, just plain edged flints, and man made flints. However in some competition, man-made flints are not allowed.
I don't find they knap well, or last as long as English/French flints. Plus they look modern. Definitely give them a shot if you want to. I tried them, even after hearing they weren't as good as others. I like to know from personal experience as sometimes I've found the prevailing wisdom didn't hold true. I I have several that I will use in a pinch. 👍🏻
It’s typically ok to do that on a large military musket type lock if you really flatten the lead thin. Smaller locks can be affected by the extra weight of the lead and bang your frizzen too hard causing you to get less shots on your flint and prematurely wear your frizzen face. Some lock makers like Chambers will not warranty a lock that you use lead in the cock as they are perfectly balanced for leather.
@@BlackPowderTV Ha ha, I was foaming about that too. This is a great video series but you're still learning production and that's fun too. Sharpening probably deserves a whole video anyway.
@@jackfoy3938 The last few times I ordered online I got them from trackofthewolf.com. The sell them by size and are usually right on with what they send. If you go to the americanlongrifle forum and put a wanted ad in the for sale section someone there will have some for sale or let you know the best place to buy, price, quality, and availability wise. 90% of the time I buy them from the Friendship shoots and longrifle shows.
A suggestion - It would have been nice to actually seen the flint while you were knapping it. All that I could see was the back of your hands and I still don’t know what things should look like while knapping a flint.
Bob, I'm start sharing your videos on my Facebook if you do not mind. But I want to ask your permission first. I have quite a few friends my age interested in our beloved sport. Videos like this will help tremendously in recruiting them and others. But again, I rather get your permission first.
Something like 65% of my views are from outside sources such as Facebook though I don’t post them anywhere else, and about the same percentage of views are by non subscribers.
Can you comment on the correct height of the flash hole above the pan? My new 20 gauge smoothbore has a flash hole that is a solid 1/8 inch above the top of the pan - and I am having terrible ignition problems. Often I am unable to get a single shot with multiple attempts. The lock/flint sparks well and the powder in the pan always ignites. Using 1F in the barrel and 4f in the pan. Thanks.
Timothy Case Hey Timothy, I like what’s known as the ‘sunset position’ where the bottom of the touchhole is level with the top of the pan. It sounds like yours is excessively high. Send a pic to bob@blackpowdertv.com and let me take a look at it. You can open it up to a 1/16” and see if that helps but you may need to put a vent liner in it which is ok. You should only misfire one out of every 20 and then it’s only because your flint is dull or you haven’t pricked your venthole for a few too many shots.
Hi, could anybody tell me what impact has a small empty space (if possible, even larger than small) on the pressure exerted upon the chamber (and barrel) when using real black powder vs Hoghdon 'substitute' vs smokeless (of course in incremental doses from insignificant to safe maximum). Thanks
Another trick that I have learned if you’re in the field & you need to quickly sharpen your flint is to have the cock fully forward with the frizzen open and then bring the frizzen down over the flint and pull the cock back while pressing down on the frizzen to chip away some of the flint to create an edge. Unprimed, of course. Love these how-tos!
I’ve tested them and they do make a spark but they dont hold up. Give them a try. I’ve found English black flints to be the best for number of shots and amount of sparks.
Hey Dan. And you probably won’t, until you do. I double clutch my truck even though they say I shouldn’t, but it’s 20 years old and still solid. Do you brother. I do.
I HAVE BEEN SHOOTING BLACK POWDER FOR 50 YEARS AND STILL LEARN THINGS THANK YOU
I use a lead sheet cut to fit the flint. Rock solid
Boy did you ever teach a lot really.I can’t thank you enough
WOW...sure wish this one was posted back in 2013 when I started. It would have saved a lot of headaches & I would still have extra flints in the pouch. Well done Bob.....
Thanks Mark!
@@BlackPowderTV You're entirely welcome my friend....see you soon...
I’m new to flintlocks. Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
I've been shooting flint locks for years and I learned something from this video.
I believe you gonna get me to step up my game with a custom flintlock. This video answered most of my questions that have been stopping me from getting one, thanks Bob!
Thanks James! Awesome to hear!
I got into muzzleloading for pretty much the same reason everyone in my generation did. Fess Parker. So of course my first gun was a flintlock longrifle 50 years ago. I had NOBODY to teach me anything about it so I eventually got frustrated and bought a percussion. I've since been cured and rehabilitated. But it really helps to have someone teach you the ins and outs of flinting.
Best training lesson on setting up your flint and knapping ever! Most flints set to high on my frizzen and shimming down a bit to lower the strike and not come in at 90 degrees was very helpfull. I cut a small strip of lead and worked as well as leather. For knapping, a small roll punch that can double as the flint screw tighener instead of a screw driver - as long as your screw has a hole too! I have also had great luck on using flints past their working life by sharpening with a Harbor Freight $9.00 diamond wheel. Cuts hard flints like butter, put on a nice bevel and knapp away.
Thanks for the video I gust started using flintlock because of not being able to finding percussion caps .
You're welcome Marty! You'll be hooked before you know it!
Have we all made the mistake early on in our flitner shooting that the corner of the flint hits the barrel? I know i did and its a lesson I took to heart. In my case I didnt notice the flint turned slightly at the range and then the next shot scored the barrel. So not only check the flint on replacement, but after every shot. That incident taught me that lesson.
bavariasuhl Excellent point about checking regularly. I learned the same way you did. 👍🏻
Very interesting. I'm always looking for a bigger spark. Your info has helped me. Thank you. Todd from Pa.
Thanks to you and Black Powder Maniac, I now have a baggie full of newly and correctly sharpened flints. All along, I had learned the wrong way to try to knap the flints (I won't go into that, but suffice to say I picked it up from reading and not from video).
Thanks for the kind words Doc! 👍🏻
Great information, thank you!! I don't know where I'd find this information elsewhere!
Thanks so much David! Glad you found it useful!
I needed to do this for the first time today, and this is the video I found on TH-cam! Thanks!
Awesome Drew!! You’re welcome! 👍🏻
Thanks for another excellent video! Your channel has become my “go to” for all things flintlock. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the kind words Kyle! Much appreciated!
Nice to find such a detailed BP channel. Outstanding videos, brother.✝️👍🏻
I was just on track of the wolf for flints. Wasn't sure what to get, till i watched this...... thanks
Excellent content sir. This is a good refresher for a long time shooter, but pure gold for a novice flintlock shooter.
I wish we had all these videos when I started out. A lot of the things you are telling folks not to do I learned the hard way. Now, I feel like a dummy. LOL. Good video Bobby!
Thanks Steven!
Thank you sir for your teaching.
i cant decide if i liked the instructional part or your hat more
Lol. Thanks. That’s def my favorite hat. 👍🏻
A great video. Don't matter if you are new to this sport or an old hand. Well worth watching thanks Bob!
Mike McGuire Thanks for the kind words Mike!
Great videos. On this one I’d like to see the view of the tool knapping the flint instead of the view from about. This inspired me to get more miles out of my flints. Thank you, dc
appreciate the guide boss
you're a legend
love my flintlock, thanks
I need more time and experience with more reliable fast ignition! THANK YOU SIR! May I have Another?
Cooking my cert Flint boulders in my campfire "TONIGHT!" to try to temper for better napping.
Working out better carbons too for my BP. tonight is corn mash sugared and ready to pitch yeast, old bread, and guava branches.
Next is color case hardening, gotta do more polishing. But I did my leather JUST the same way before I watched. I used an OLD bronze welding tip to start my flint tools.
Keep those Smoke Poles SMOKING! it is an ADICTION!
My GOD that is a GREAT Looking Flint lock.
Wow great video. Thanks
Great information. Thanks.
thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks Victor! I appreciate it!
He sure does know his stuff. And videos like this make us more interested and less scared of buying a flintlock. When hunting, I guess we just lightly nap it just in case?
Interesting vice. Have you ever done a vid on basic tools/shop/bench for flintlock build/repair? I’d be interested in that type info. Great videos all around 👍.
Great idea. I’ve added that to my list of upcoming videos. 👍🏻
new to this weapon.. Love the content THANK YOU !
Yep Missouri churt everywhere in some places I have some that is purple
I'm in Missouri... Where would I find it?
@Eric-fu4lj what part are you in Missouri I'm in the Ozarks
Wonderful videos!!!! Thank you so much, these are very educational!
Thanks FB! I appreciate the kind words!
Deer antler works fine for pressure knapping and won't spark.
Yes, it does John, excellent point! Thanks!
Thank you very much
Great instructional video.
Much appreciated.
I subscribed and hit the bell 🔔
Thanks for sharing
Learning a lot of good things from you Bob . Can't wait to put it all to use when i get my first flintlock gun , a TVM Southern rifle . Should have it in late winter .
Thanks! I appreciate it! Sounds awesome! I love southern guns! Feel free to ask any questions you have or idea for a video you might want to see! bob@blackpowdertv.com
Thank you for this informative video. I am definitely better informed as a result of watching it!
as always good info Bob. I like lead to hold the flint in the jaws. it works better and holds tighter for me than leather. I have two whole vintage shower tubs that was made of thin soft lead. I just take some tin snips and cut a piece off when I need a new one. for new viewers who want to try lead in the jaws instead of leather, you can beat a lead ball flat and use that,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
OLSKOOL It’s a good idea and historically correct particularly for large robust lock like you find on military muskets. Keep it really thin though because the added weight can be too much for some locks if it’s too thick. Thanks Olskool!
I've made a couple flints from some local black chert in we have in VT.Alot of times too when the flints I buy have a super huge hump in them I'll take a masonry wheel on the angle grinder and reduce the hump about half.I think they tighten better in the jaws that way,but most run them without doing that and work fine.I use leather but want to try some sheet lead also.Semper Fi brother.
Semper Fi! Once I get a stack of humpy flints I do the same. I should’ve mentioned that in the vid. Be careful with sheet lead in smaller locks, especially in Chambers locks, they are tuned for leather and the added weight can snap the cock and it will void the warranty. I like lead in big musket locks. Thanks for the great comment!
I never considered the lock’s notch! Great insight! 👍😊 Wish I had a big, fat jar of fresh flints or a flint mine. 😂 My Pedersoli fowler is eating flints so I’ll be an expert soon enuff.
Very nice vid . I need more friends or neighbors
like you, lol
Lol! Thanks Sam!
Could you do a video on choosing an appropriate caliber? 32. 36. 40 what they can be used for? 45,50, 54, 58 for big game?🙂
Another great video!
Thanks Rodd!
Perfect! I needed this! The angle on my tc hawken is not great
Thanks Austin!
Bob what is the tiny screw inside my lock on the top of the tumbler pointing down? also sometime could you show a real closeup of the lock and explain how each part works and how to adjust them? Thanks for providing this site I'm learning a lot, Mike
Mike, send a pic of the screw you’re referring to to bob@blackpowdertv.com. The screws in a traditional lock all hold the parts on the plate. I’ll add a lock video to my list of vids for the next month. Thanks!
To maintain the proper bevel on the flint, you should be turning the flint over and striking the underside of the flint.
I learned a lot. Thank you.
Bob I’ve seen natural flints that don’t have the pronounced hump on the one side of the flint. Is that a specific type who cuts the and where can they be purchased? As usual great video very informative!
Thanks for the kind words! It’s a traditional form used by the English and French c1750ish. They were not always like that but they often were. I buy them from trackofthewolf.com or trade shows.
A picture of what is happening to the flint would be a great help
Good stuff!
You don’t need a nap the flint. It comes quite sharp. After a firing maybe 100 rounds or so it may not want to spark. You do not have to nap it. All you need to do is loosen the screw barely move the flint, sometimes just loosening push it back to tighten and it’s done deal. You have a different surface point and it will spark. Napping the flint you just wear it out.
The rest of his information was very good!
Yes, you don't have to knap a flint when you get it, they indeed do come sharp, but after shooting as you say, up to 100 shots, they are no longer sharp. I've never heard of just wiggling the flint around a bit and she's good as new. That said, I don't always knap them unless I need to squeeze a few more shots out of it. I usually just pitch them. Learn something new every day... Thanks!
Great video Bob. Glad to see this one. I can knap a flint well enough to get it sparking again but I'm definitely interested in learning more about improving my technique.
I'm going to have to tie a string to my finger to remind myself to pick up some brass rod next time I go to town.
Keep em coming.
Mike
Thanks Mike!
Thanks Bob... but I wish I could’ve seen the flint while you were napping it.
I know. That one didn’t turn out great. It’s on the list for a redo.
Learning this saves me some money now fkints are a getting expensive..i was just replacing them
Probably can order some amber french flints from October Country in Idaho... Their good people for the hard to find items
You're right about that Pat!
I’m having difficulty with ignition with my Pedersoli 62 Indian trade gun. This is a new muzzleloader for me. I have no issues with my Kentucky 45 rifle and pistol. Some folks say to use the flint bevel down in that gun. I’ve learned a lot from the video, thank for making it. Any further advise would be appreciated
Roger Pilon Are you getting enough sparks that your priming is going off? If your primer is going off but your not igniting the main charge I’d make sure to prick your charge before the shot. If that doesn’t help you should open your touch hole a bit. If you aren’t getting sparks off the frizzen make sure you don’t have oil on the flint or frizzen. Wipe with a bit of alcohol. If that doesn’t work your frizzen may need rehardening or replaced.
Black Powder TV thanks for the advice, I should have mentioned, my priming charge is not going off, I am getting spark, but not much. I will try the alcohol first and other things you mentioned. Living in Canada limits my options. Much obliged for the help.
You’re welcome. You should have no problem getting a replacement frizzen. 👍🏻
New sub here a great vid!
wish we could see you doing the knapping... no idea what you're doing there. Being in Missouri.. I'll look for Missouri flint
Im gonna have watch this again, when I finally get a flintlock. I looked into converting my Traditions perc. caplock into flintlock, there lock is not too impressive, after looking at silar, chambers, kiblers locks. Decided its not worth it to go that way, better to keep those as caps. Gonna have to keep saving up. Godspeed
Thanks MrD. Yep, when you’re ready to switch to flintlock you’ll find they’re much more finicky than cap locks and require the best lock you can get. An average lock cost 150$ and the best cost $275. It’s not a huge difference.
Setting up my flint I noticed when at 1/2 cock, the frizzen was pushed slightly forward. This left a space over the flash pan. I was able to correct that. Just something to look for when setting the flint.
thanks for your advices ... your video is great !!!
Very informative video! Another "expedient" remedy..a pair of pliers and gently nip the edge.
Thanks US! Great tip!
@@BlackPowderTV Not period correct of course.
Alittle late to the video but I have a question. I live here in the Flinthills of Kansas. I’m wondering if this flint is any good for making some flints for my flintlock? Have learned alot from your videos. Thankyou for all the work and knowledge you share.
I just bought a flintlock, I haven’t received it yet. I assume the flint being sharpened makes better sparks by your video. I am a traditional bow hunter and do some knapping for arrow points myself. just curious, but have you ever tried a copper nail driven in a good stick and sharpened? That’s a go to pressure flaker for making points. Do you have a recommended supplier for flint? I’m interested in the desired shape. Kinda wondering if broken points will work.
I agree you. Need more close vdo
Good vid.
Where did you get the Betsy Ross flag?
I dont remember. Amazon maybe? I do remember it was on the expensive side (70$?) and a well made one with the ‘tea stain’ patina. Super nice and durable. Very believable aging. 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV nice, I just finished building a Haines in 45 and my wife is cool with me hanging it in the living room. I want that flag for under it...
Man I'm glad I discovered your channel. I'm learning A LOT. How about taking the barrel off? Is that something you could do a video on? Or more importantly, how often or why would we need to? I've owned my fowler for 3 years and got to admit, I've never taken it off cuz I'm scared I'll mess something up. I've just always wondered about it. Thank you
Great idea. I will put it on my video list as my farm range is closed during hunting season and I’ll be doing hunting and shop videos over the winter. Maybe I’ll do it next week. I take the barrel off once a year for a deep clean, or if it gets really rained on. Cleaning the bore often gets a bit of water under the stock. When it’s off rub the bottom of the barrel with RIG (rust inhibiting grease) and you’ll be ok for another year. If you get it off and find some surface rust, simply use scotchbrite, 320 sandpaper, or steel wool to remove it before greasing.
@@BlackPowderTV thank you sir. There's nothing out there anywhere on taking the barrel off for cleaning that I've found. I've never seen a video or read an article on it anywhere. So definitely looking forward to any tips and tricks before I attempt it myself.
Well, keep an eye out. I’ll do one pretty quick. 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV Could you also please cover adjustment of touch hole liner? I had to pull mine recently. Last time I shot, I pulled the barrel and noted I was getting powder residue under the lock and barrel. Screw slot points right under it... Thank you
Where did you get your flint? I just got a 65 cal pistol I want to be able to shoot, it has a flint but it’s been shot so many times it doesn’t strike the way it should.
A lot of good info I believe this might fix my problem... if I Measure the width of the frizon and it comes out to 5/8 is that the size flint I need?
Yes sir. A hair smaller is ok. Most places like TOTW list their flints by width so just make sure you don't have any overhang. You may have to offset your flint a little bit outboard to keep it from hitting the barrel but the largest flint smaller than your frizzen will get you your best performance.
@@BlackPowderTV thank you hope this helps
Really good information Bob. Do you have a place to get ahold of some Missouri chert?
No, my source stopped knapping. I’ve got many dozens of his left but I don’t have any new leads on where to get it.
@@BlackPowderTV Thanks Bob...I put out a wanted post on ALR to see if it turns up anything. If I find someone I'll pass it along . Sorry for all the questions...I'm working my way through your old videos. You have a knack for TH-cam.
Ok. Go back and look at your post. They’ve got this crazy rule where you have to put the price you’re willing to pay in the listing. I commented.
@@BlackPowderTV thanks Bob
The graduated rod for knapping, have tried to find them on the various flinter stores but no luck, does it go be a particular name?
bavariasuhl knapping rod I think. I got it at Friendship but I think Dixie has something similar.
when you were looking at installation orientation & explaining, re 90 degrees ect.. viewer can see nothing.. hand obstructs all view of flint when you are "tapping" , how far should flint protrude? as a begining "flintlock" user,, i need to know... maybe its good to shooters who know a little already?? i've never fired a flint rifle,, but should have one within the week..
I’m wondering if it’s any better or easier to nap a flint OFF of the rifle? I’m just not sure what the best way to hold it without crushing it in a vise
Question: I accidentally ordered the wrong size flints. They work fine get quick ignition but are WAY narrower than the frizzen. Will this damage my frizzen over time or should I just use em and get wider ones when they wear out?
The British Army used French amber in the American Revolution .
They sure did. The King was stingy with his half-pence.
New to flintlocks. Is the purpose of knapping to thin the tip of the flint so it sparks more easily?
Very, very informative. How many shots do you usually get out of a flint before you have to get a new one? Is that your 32 cal you have the sun shades for? Very beautiful gun.
I use them on most of my .36 and under calibers. Helps with fine aiming. 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV Bob, do you think a shade would help me with my Lyman GPR? I have the removable Lyman rear peep, but didn't change the front because I still want to be able to shoot at our off hand matches. I just need to get a piece of brass pipe, and cut it to where it fits snugly against the barrel, right?
I think it’s worth a try and it’ll surely help. I’d go to Lowe’s and get a piece of sheet brass or bronze. I think it’s in the hobby section on the screw isle. Thinner the better so you can adjust it. Find something to bend it around that fits. A piece of 1” pvc pipe, a broomstick, or anything round.
I forgot to answer about how many shots to a flint. On all my Chamber’s locks I get something like 40-50. About 20-25 before I need to Knap.
What is the best angel how the flint should hit the Frizzen? 45 to 30 degree?
I bought a bunch of flint 5 or 6 years ago it all went bad it just flank off when it hits the frison It might spark now and then
You said to stay away from the mechanically cut flints, but didn't say why? I'd really like to know the reason if u have the time.
Thanks
Hey Joe. There is a general consensus among guys who either shoot a lot or shoot competitively that they don’t hold up or hold an edge. I agree. They will fire your flintlock but if 40 or more shots in a row without a misfire is important go with black English or yellow French knapped flints. It does take a lock that is nicely balanced in regard to their springs, and tuned well, but flints are a big part of consistency. This is not to say you might have good luck with them but I couldn’t get them to run very well on my guns with tuned Chambers locks.
I have used all types. The pre-cut on each end, just plain edged flints, and man made flints. However in some competition, man-made flints are not allowed.
How would you knapp a flint in the field (e.g, during a wood's walk) when you don't have a bench and a vise to hold the rifle?
Good question.
A few extra flints in the bag is going to probably be the answer….
What would I use for Kimbler36 cal I ordered six flints from kibler are they good flints
They will be top shelf from Kibler. 👍🏻
Why do you avoid the mechanically cut flints?
I don't find they knap well, or last as long as English/French flints. Plus they look modern. Definitely give them a shot if you want to. I tried them, even after hearing they weren't as good as others. I like to know from personal experience as sometimes I've found the prevailing wisdom didn't hold true. I I have several that I will use in a pinch. 👍🏻
I heard/seen where they would flatten a round ball and use it instead of the leather. Any advantage or disadvantages to doing that?
It’s typically ok to do that on a large military musket type lock if you really flatten the lead thin. Smaller locks can be affected by the extra weight of the lead and bang your frizzen too hard causing you to get less shots on your flint and prematurely wear your frizzen face. Some lock makers like Chambers will not warranty a lock that you use lead in the cock as they are perfectly balanced for leather.
Thank you!
It stinks when a guy who knows how do do a thing is showing you how to do the thing and you CAN'T SEE THE THING BEING DONE
I hear ya. That video is on my list for a redo of that part. 👍🏻
@@BlackPowderTV is a little
@@BlackPowderTV Ha ha, I was foaming about that too. This is a great video series but you're still learning production and that's fun too. Sharpening probably deserves a whole video anyway.
Why is it not recommended to use iron pyrite in place of a flint?
It’s not as tough. It works but any strike could break it where good black English flint can last for dozens of shots.
Where do you get all your flints from? They are heard to find.
I pick them up at shows or order online when available. I try to keep at least 100 around so I'm good when they are hard to track down...
@@BlackPowderTV anywhere particular you order them online? I’ve tried a few places but they keep sending me flints that are way to big.
@@jackfoy3938 The last few times I ordered online I got them from trackofthewolf.com. The sell them by size and are usually right on with what they send. If you go to the americanlongrifle forum and put a wanted ad in the for sale section someone there will have some for sale or let you know the best place to buy, price, quality, and availability wise. 90% of the time I buy them from the Friendship shoots and longrifle shows.
@@BlackPowderTV I’ll look into that thank you very much!
A suggestion - It would have been nice to actually seen the flint while you were knapping it. All that I could see was the back of your hands and I still don’t know what things should look like while knapping a flint.
Yea, Richard, I’m still working through being a complete hamfisted country boy....Better videos coming soon. 👍🏻
Bob, I'm start sharing your videos on my Facebook if you do not mind. But I want to ask your permission first. I have quite a few friends my age interested in our beloved sport. Videos like this will help tremendously in recruiting them and others. But again, I rather get your permission first.
Absolutely feel free James! I have a few guys that do that already and it helps me too! Thanks!
@@BlackPowderTV posting the to CLA groups and various BP groups would be great. Still surprised many people still not aware of this channel.
Something like 65% of my views are from outside sources such as Facebook though I don’t post them anywhere else, and about the same percentage of views are by non subscribers.
I use 6" anlter tine/ spike and from the front pressure flake it. I take it out. I don't do it in the jaws.
I have been trying to find a place to buy flints for a long time, can you suggest one? None of the gun stores in my area Carry them
trackofthewolf.com is where I get them. 👍🏻
Can you comment on the correct height of the flash hole above the pan? My new 20 gauge smoothbore has a flash hole that is a solid 1/8 inch above the top of the pan - and I am having terrible ignition problems. Often I am unable to get a single shot with multiple attempts. The lock/flint sparks well and the powder in the pan always ignites. Using 1F in the barrel and 4f in the pan. Thanks.
Timothy Case Hey Timothy, I like what’s known as the ‘sunset position’ where the bottom of the touchhole is level with the top of the pan. It sounds like yours is excessively high. Send a pic to bob@blackpowdertv.com and let me take a look at it. You can open it up to a 1/16” and see if that helps but you may need to put a vent liner in it which is ok. You should only misfire one out of every 20 and then it’s only because your flint is dull or you haven’t pricked your venthole for a few too many shots.
Hi, could anybody tell me what impact has a small empty space (if possible, even larger than small) on the pressure exerted upon the chamber (and barrel) when using real black powder vs Hoghdon 'substitute' vs smokeless (of course in incremental doses from insignificant to safe maximum). Thanks
Another trick that I have learned if you’re in the field & you need to quickly sharpen your flint is to have the cock fully forward with the frizzen open and then bring the frizzen down over the flint and pull the cock back while pressing down on the frizzen to chip away some of the flint to create an edge. Unprimed, of course.
Love these how-tos!
Thanks! I often do something similar if I need one more shot, instead of getting out my knapping gear. A good trick to know. 👍🏻
Where do you get your flint that be my question
I get some from longrifle shows and some from trackofthewolf.com. 👍🏻
Hello, I don't know if you could sell me one of those keys. I've been wanting one of those for some time.
Where you buy those screwdrivers please.
the hand forged turnscrew? I bought them from ALR member David Pennington. Sign up at americanlongrifles.com and send him a PM!
@@BlackPowderTV, 👍
You show a machine cut agate flint and say avoid those. Why?? They are popular where I live what is the reason?
I’ve tested them and they do make a spark but they dont hold up. Give them a try. I’ve found English black flints to be the best for number of shots and amount of sparks.
I have been napping at 1/2 cock for over 50 years. Never hurt a lock.
Hey Dan. And you probably won’t, until you do. I double clutch my truck even though they say I shouldn’t, but it’s 20 years old and still solid. Do you brother. I do.