There are two paddling styles, low angle paddling and high angle paddling. It's mostly preference. High angle paddling gives more power and acceleration, hence why it's used in speed racing competitions. Low angle is usually used for long distance trips, though I also use high angle paddling for all of my paddling, and I am part of Castaways Against Cancer, so I paddle with my fellow Castaways from Miami to Key West once a year (160 miles+ to raise $ for cancer research). All this to say that if someone has a natural high angle paddling style (difficult to do if you have a wide fishing kayak), a shorter paddle works better for that style. Cheers. I learned so much watching your video in terms of how to FIX or REFURBISH my $500 paddle!
Oh man that is the coolest video I've watched all month. If you're worried about it being too short you could maybe turn it into a two-piece paddle and extend it a couple of centimeters with the connection.
Very solid instruction video. Watched it many times, took notes and now about to go scavenger hunting for the tools and components. This will be my first composite hand layup/vacuum project. Very stoked!
Awesome! I'd LOVE to hear how it turns out! This is the biggest reason I share these videos - I want to inspire people to make stuff, so this is the best compliment I could get! The world needs more builders :)
@@SasquatchCompositesI will let you know! Btw, would you still do the shaft the same way or differently after this build? Knowing that I have to sand down the shaft, I'm bit worried about sanding into the fibers. But perhaps since this is a hand layup there will be more resin on the surface to protect against that.
@@henrir4362 I would absolutely do it the same way. The alternative would be to make a 2-part mold for the shaft, and that's way more work. I like this method better for making a one-off part. You just have to accept that the shaft will not be perfectly smooth and be very careful to not sand into the plies. If you see black dust when you sand, it's time to stop sanding that spot. I did design it to have extra strength so it's not the end of the world if you sand into the carbon a little, but it's still best to just avoid it. If you absolutely wanted the shaft to be smooth, you could apply several coats of epoxy to it after cure, sanding in between coats. Eventually it'll build up enough to smooth out the wavy surface. But it'll add quite a bit of weight.
@@SasquatchComposites Thanks! Another really interesting method I saw was one guy using heat shrink tube which he heatgunned to the uncured laminate. I might try that as well if I can get my hands on a ~30mm HST.
@@henrir4362 Hey, I like that idea. I've seen people spiral wrap in heat shrink tape and then cure in an oven, but a heat gun could probably be used to shrink it if you're not curing in an oven. The only tricky part about using heat shrink tubing will be getting it slid over top of the wet fabric without sticking and pulling the fabric, distorting the weave. But if you try it I'd be really curious to hear how it works out.
That came out nice! Neat idea to mold the bagged layups with the foam formers outside the bag - love the low fuss for a nice outcome. Also interested in your method for sanding the cutting edges of shears to hold Kevlar - going to have to try that!
Allways adapting my paddle - an old one from "Schlegel", which is more than 30 years old. Really heavy stuff, but this is the reason why it lasted that time... :)
So as a paddler of 15 years, I have one of those expensive paddles, not quite as expensive as your example, but more like £250. The main difference I have found with composite paddles as opposed to paddles with aluminium shafts and plastic blades is the stiffness. You will find that the composite paddles will transfer power a lot more efficiently, without all the flex, the lightness is a bonus. My paddle is the werner powerhouse, looking up the weight, it is 35lbs so just under double yours, which still feels light to me. I wonder whether mine being a whitewater paddle requires more strength? Length wise, for me it looked good, but people that do touring/ paddle sit on tops tend to use a longer paddle, im not sure why? maybe for a longer reach when turning, but having your hand closer to the paddle blade allows for a better power transfer too. My paddles are 200cm long tip to tip, which is actually quite long for a whitewater paddle.
I absolutely would want a stronger paddle for whitewater. Those things need to be able to take a beating. If I were building one for whitewater I'd probably use a higher density foam core in the paddles like Hiload 60 (actually, I kinda wish I had anyway) and add an extra ply or two of carbon to the paddle area.
@@SasquatchComposites that's great, I'm actually thinking of making one anyway so that's useful advice, I only came across this video by chance though, I've done a bit of composites work anyway so was just going to wing it, I suppose maths wise it will take a little bit of working out, I don't really know what force I need to go up to for moving water either. I'm thinking of doing a wood core anyway, then using a glass woven roving with a very fine weave, I think where the dihedral will be thicker I may use foam and then lay up carbon over the top to hide it, thus reducing the weight. The carbon shaft bit was actually the most useful for me in your video I would say, how would you do a cranked shaft though? Have some sort of flexible rubber core then clamp it into shape carefully before removing the rubber?
@@alexander.angell That might work, but I suspect it'd be really tough extracting the rubber. I would make a cranked shaft one of two ways: 1. make a 2-part female mold. This will give you the best result, but you have to make a mold. 2. shape a foam core to match the shape of the shaft you want (by cutting and/or heating and bending), and pull a carbon fiber sock over it. After it cures, you can melt out styrene foams with acetone (don't breathe that) or just leave it in with a small weight penalty. It's tough to vacuum bag it without wrinkling the fabric and because the fibers aren't oriented lengthwise on the sock, you'll have to use more layers of carbon to get the same bending strength. But you don't have to make a mold 🤷♂
@@SasquatchComposites ah thanks, a mould might work, to get it in one piece would I have to inflate a bag inside it? Do you think that leaving a foam core in would increase the stiffness of the shaft? I know that a foam core on a boat does.
@@alexander.angell You could make the mold strong enough to withstand pressure and inflate a bladder inside (probably custom made bladder, like dragonskin). I use this process for making RC glider fuselages, and I just use a harbor freight airbrush compressor to inflate to 60psi. Or you could run poly bagging film tube through the mold and out each end, and then envelope bag the entire mold but with the poly tube vented to the outside. The result is that you've vacuum bagged to the inside of the mold. hard to explain, so hopefully that makes sense.
[ 15:48 ] Instead of cabosil, maybe thinning the topcoat of epoxy with a bit of alcohol would have reduced the viscosity enough to smooth out surface imperfections, and avoid the additional rounds of sanding?
I haven't had any issues from normal use yet, but life has unfortunately kept me from using it much. However, I made the mistake of doing the "look how strong this carbon fiber part is" thing and managed to crack one of the paddle blades. If I were to make this again I'd probably use a higher compressive strength foam like Hi-load 60, which I think would make it almost impossible to break. I'm planning to repair it and then use it a ton after I finish my kayak and I'll be able to make better recommendations then.
I want to make an arc shape carbon fiber tube. Is it possible by bending the pipe after wrapping the shrink tape and let it cure this way? the arc is not so curvy.
Awesome. This is exactly what I was looking for. I’m an avid whitewater kayaker (as my videos attest to) and was looking to diy my next one as the $400 paddle typically only last 2-3 years anyways and I want to design something unique. Couple questions for you before I start my project: If you had to ballpark the price of just materials used what would you say it was? I’m planning on doubling ply on the paddle blades to stand up to whitewater and rocks more but do you have any more tips or ideas for reinforcements between the paddle shaft and blade?
I think I used about 2 yards of carbon and a small amount of extruded polystyrene insulation foam from Home Depot. Probably about $60-80 total in materials. If I were to do it again I'd definitely use a higher compressive strength foam, especially for whitewater. And for whitewater I think an extra ply or two would be wise, too. If you can get Hiload 60, it makes for a really good structural core material that's way more durable than the stuff I used here, and it can still be hotwired. If you can't find that, Aircraft Spruce sells a very similar XPS foam called STYROFOAM LARGE CELL that would work fantastic.
@@SasquatchComposites you only gave mention of the carbon and foam in your price point but did not mention the epoxy. What king did you use and what was that added cost then assuming you forgot to add that cost to your total? Also, would urethane topcoat used on cars not be best to protect the epoxy from uv?
@@artbyrobot1 I used Resin Research Composite Pro 2050. Sorry I didn't mention that. Not sure what the cost would be since I just keep a gallon or two on hand and don't usually calculate my usage for small projects like this. Not sure what the best topcoat is, but I suspect that you're right. A quality auto urethane would probably last quite well.
Very nice video to watch, nice padlle too! I would personelly leave the pvc-pipe inside hahaha my padlle is for 1side.. canadean canou i beleve its called..? Ligther by nature..
For a cheaper method you could swap the carbon for fiberglass and the Kevlar to dynel correct? I guess also swap the epoxy as well, but the overall method would remain the same correct?
Yes, you could save some money by switching to fiberglass. I'd probably add a third layer to the paddle if I was using glass. I've never used dynel, so I don't know if it's a good substitute for kevlar. You could just use fiberglass in place of kevlar, too, if you add an extra layer. It won't be quite as durable, but should be pretty good. However, I would definitely NOT use an ester resin in place of epoxy. In addition to being considerably weaker than a epoxy laminate, the ester resins attack the foam and you'll just be left with a sticky soggy stinky mess.
@@SasquatchComposites thanks for the reply, I tried similar project an year ago , but my paddle weighs around 1kg, I am not impressed with my end result, I will try again ,sorry I missed weigt information in you video.
@@jdude1195 No worries. I kind of glossed over it quickly in the video and you're not the only one that missed it :). 1kg is still much better than most paddles you can purchase for under about $300, so that's not too bad. If you try again I'd love to hear how it turns out!
The vacuum helps compact the layers of carbon and holds them to the foam core while the epoxy cures. Without vacuum it's more difficult to prevent voids and disbonds in your part. In short, vacuum bagging gives you a stronger, lighter, and more consistent result.
A friend and pilot once told me "there are pilots and there are builders." The pilot will be better served by just buying an airplane and enjoying what he loves, and he shouldn't ever build just to save money. I think that philosophy applies equally well here. I'm definitely more of a builder, and I get more enjoyment out of building than using most of the things I build.
@SasquatchComposites that's excellent advice. I understand your viewpoint well, I like to make stuff and have spent much more on the tools and parts to build my own stuff, but its fun and customized to my liking.
less weight... or more muscles. insert a piece of rebar in your paddle for a month or two, then remove it. a 500$ paddle will look a stupid investment.
Good job. Now i am confident that my all fiberglass SUP paddle will be perfect. Thanks again. ❤❤. I am using 0,020 G10 // FR4 to form the foil curves
There are two paddling styles, low angle paddling and high angle paddling. It's mostly preference. High angle paddling gives more power and acceleration, hence why it's used in speed racing competitions. Low angle is usually used for long distance trips, though I also use high angle paddling for all of my paddling, and I am part of Castaways Against Cancer, so I paddle with my fellow Castaways from Miami to Key West once a year (160 miles+ to raise $ for cancer research). All this to say that if someone has a natural high angle paddling style (difficult to do if you have a wide fishing kayak), a shorter paddle works better for that style. Cheers. I learned so much watching your video in terms of how to FIX or REFURBISH my $500 paddle!
Oh man that is the coolest video I've watched all month. If you're worried about it being too short you could maybe turn it into a two-piece paddle and extend it a couple of centimeters with the connection.
Very solid instruction video. Watched it many times, took notes and now about to go scavenger hunting for the tools and components. This will be my first composite hand layup/vacuum project. Very stoked!
Awesome! I'd LOVE to hear how it turns out! This is the biggest reason I share these videos - I want to inspire people to make stuff, so this is the best compliment I could get! The world needs more builders :)
@@SasquatchCompositesI will let you know! Btw, would you still do the shaft the same way or differently after this build? Knowing that I have to sand down the shaft, I'm bit worried about sanding into the fibers. But perhaps since this is a hand layup there will be more resin on the surface to protect against that.
@@henrir4362 I would absolutely do it the same way. The alternative would be to make a 2-part mold for the shaft, and that's way more work. I like this method better for making a one-off part. You just have to accept that the shaft will not be perfectly smooth and be very careful to not sand into the plies. If you see black dust when you sand, it's time to stop sanding that spot. I did design it to have extra strength so it's not the end of the world if you sand into the carbon a little, but it's still best to just avoid it. If you absolutely wanted the shaft to be smooth, you could apply several coats of epoxy to it after cure, sanding in between coats. Eventually it'll build up enough to smooth out the wavy surface. But it'll add quite a bit of weight.
@@SasquatchComposites Thanks! Another really interesting method I saw was one guy using heat shrink tube which he heatgunned to the uncured laminate. I might try that as well if I can get my hands on a ~30mm HST.
@@henrir4362 Hey, I like that idea. I've seen people spiral wrap in heat shrink tape and then cure in an oven, but a heat gun could probably be used to shrink it if you're not curing in an oven. The only tricky part about using heat shrink tubing will be getting it slid over top of the wet fabric without sticking and pulling the fabric, distorting the weave. But if you try it I'd be really curious to hear how it works out.
Now you just need to make a composite kayak to go along with it! Nicely done.
Such a project may or may not already be in the planning stages :)
@@SasquatchComposites that may, or may not, be music to my ears!
That vacuum bag sound could make a really good asmr.
That came out nice! Neat idea to mold the bagged layups with the foam formers outside the bag - love the low fuss for a nice outcome.
Also interested in your method for sanding the cutting edges of shears to hold Kevlar - going to have to try that!
Thanks! I'm planning to do a video on tips for working with kevlar, and I'll for sure show that method in it.
Thank you. Lots of very helpful hints. Plan B etc. thinking on your toes.
Allways adapting my paddle - an old one from "Schlegel", which is more than 30 years old. Really heavy stuff, but this is the reason why it lasted that time... :)
Awsome result!👌👌👌
So as a paddler of 15 years, I have one of those expensive paddles, not quite as expensive as your example, but more like £250. The main difference I have found with composite paddles as opposed to paddles with aluminium shafts and plastic blades is the stiffness. You will find that the composite paddles will transfer power a lot more efficiently, without all the flex, the lightness is a bonus. My paddle is the werner powerhouse, looking up the weight, it is 35lbs so just under double yours, which still feels light to me. I wonder whether mine being a whitewater paddle requires more strength? Length wise, for me it looked good, but people that do touring/ paddle sit on tops tend to use a longer paddle, im not sure why? maybe for a longer reach when turning, but having your hand closer to the paddle blade allows for a better power transfer too. My paddles are 200cm long tip to tip, which is actually quite long for a whitewater paddle.
I absolutely would want a stronger paddle for whitewater. Those things need to be able to take a beating. If I were building one for whitewater I'd probably use a higher density foam core in the paddles like Hiload 60 (actually, I kinda wish I had anyway) and add an extra ply or two of carbon to the paddle area.
@@SasquatchComposites that's great, I'm actually thinking of making one anyway so that's useful advice, I only came across this video by chance though, I've done a bit of composites work anyway so was just going to wing it, I suppose maths wise it will take a little bit of working out, I don't really know what force I need to go up to for moving water either. I'm thinking of doing a wood core anyway, then using a glass woven roving with a very fine weave, I think where the dihedral will be thicker I may use foam and then lay up carbon over the top to hide it, thus reducing the weight. The carbon shaft bit was actually the most useful for me in your video I would say, how would you do a cranked shaft though? Have some sort of flexible rubber core then clamp it into shape carefully before removing the rubber?
@@alexander.angell That might work, but I suspect it'd be really tough extracting the rubber. I would make a cranked shaft one of two ways:
1. make a 2-part female mold. This will give you the best result, but you have to make a mold.
2. shape a foam core to match the shape of the shaft you want (by cutting and/or heating and bending), and pull a carbon fiber sock over it. After it cures, you can melt out styrene foams with acetone (don't breathe that) or just leave it in with a small weight penalty. It's tough to vacuum bag it without wrinkling the fabric and because the fibers aren't oriented lengthwise on the sock, you'll have to use more layers of carbon to get the same bending strength. But you don't have to make a mold 🤷♂
@@SasquatchComposites ah thanks, a mould might work, to get it in one piece would I have to inflate a bag inside it? Do you think that leaving a foam core in would increase the stiffness of the shaft? I know that a foam core on a boat does.
@@alexander.angell You could make the mold strong enough to withstand pressure and inflate a bladder inside (probably custom made bladder, like dragonskin). I use this process for making RC glider fuselages, and I just use a harbor freight airbrush compressor to inflate to 60psi. Or you could run poly bagging film tube through the mold and out each end, and then envelope bag the entire mold but with the poly tube vented to the outside. The result is that you've vacuum bagged to the inside of the mold. hard to explain, so hopefully that makes sense.
awesome work man, very inspiring
[ 15:48 ] Instead of cabosil, maybe thinning the topcoat of epoxy with a bit of alcohol would have reduced the viscosity enough to smooth out surface imperfections, and avoid the additional rounds of sanding?
Awesome technique
“I didn’t want flat spots on my shaft”. I felt that..
Great video and super helpful, really wanting to try this project out and make my own paddle. How has the paddle held up over time?
I haven't had any issues from normal use yet, but life has unfortunately kept me from using it much. However, I made the mistake of doing the "look how strong this carbon fiber part is" thing and managed to crack one of the paddle blades. If I were to make this again I'd probably use a higher compressive strength foam like Hi-load 60, which I think would make it almost impossible to break. I'm planning to repair it and then use it a ton after I finish my kayak and I'll be able to make better recommendations then.
I want to make an arc shape carbon fiber tube. Is it possible by bending the pipe after wrapping the shrink tape and let it cure this way? the arc is not so curvy.
Awesome. This is exactly what I was looking for. I’m an avid whitewater kayaker (as my videos attest to) and was looking to diy my next one as the $400 paddle typically only last 2-3 years anyways and I want to design something unique.
Couple questions for you before I start my project:
If you had to ballpark the price of just materials used what would you say it was?
I’m planning on doubling ply on the paddle blades to stand up to whitewater and rocks more but do you have any more tips or ideas for reinforcements between the paddle shaft and blade?
I think I used about 2 yards of carbon and a small amount of extruded polystyrene insulation foam from Home Depot. Probably about $60-80 total in materials. If I were to do it again I'd definitely use a higher compressive strength foam, especially for whitewater. And for whitewater I think an extra ply or two would be wise, too. If you can get Hiload 60, it makes for a really good structural core material that's way more durable than the stuff I used here, and it can still be hotwired. If you can't find that, Aircraft Spruce sells a very similar XPS foam called STYROFOAM LARGE CELL that would work fantastic.
@@SasquatchComposites you only gave mention of the carbon and foam in your price point but did not mention the epoxy. What king did you use and what was that added cost then assuming you forgot to add that cost to your total? Also, would urethane topcoat used on cars not be best to protect the epoxy from uv?
@@artbyrobot1 I used Resin Research Composite Pro 2050. Sorry I didn't mention that. Not sure what the cost would be since I just keep a gallon or two on hand and don't usually calculate my usage for small projects like this.
Not sure what the best topcoat is, but I suspect that you're right. A quality auto urethane would probably last quite well.
Very nice video to watch, nice padlle too! I would personelly leave the pvc-pipe inside hahaha my padlle is for 1side.. canadean canou i beleve its called..? Ligther by nature..
It is the rigidity that makes the paddle get up to speed quicker.
For a cheaper method you could swap the carbon for fiberglass and the Kevlar to dynel correct? I guess also swap the epoxy as well, but the overall method would remain the same correct?
Yes, you could save some money by switching to fiberglass. I'd probably add a third layer to the paddle if I was using glass. I've never used dynel, so I don't know if it's a good substitute for kevlar. You could just use fiberglass in place of kevlar, too, if you add an extra layer. It won't be quite as durable, but should be pretty good. However, I would definitely NOT use an ester resin in place of epoxy. In addition to being considerably weaker than a epoxy laminate, the ester resins attack the foam and you'll just be left with a sticky soggy stinky mess.
The total weight would be ? How about Rutan UNI & BID glass cloth painted black. As practice.
What was the cost in materials for the paddle?
Well done!!
Muito bom, o tube é o mais no difícil? Qual o segredo do tubo?
You could cut it in half and extend it :D
Very nice video, thanks!
True! It wouldn't be that hard to lay up an 8" section and then splice it into the middle. Great idea!
@@SasquatchComposites Haha glad I could help. You could also maybe hide the seam in some rubberized grips.
Japanese razor saw will cut that shaft easily and perfectly straight. Thanks.❤❤
Thanks for great video. What is the name of the tube? (time 12.10)
It's nylon vacuum bagging tube from ACP Composites: store.acpcomposites.com/vacuum-bagging-tubes
damn, that's impressive 😮
What did it cost to make?
Hard to say because almost everything I used was scrap materials I already had on hand. But I'd estimate material costs would be ~$60-100.
Nice work!👍
Thanks! 👍
How did you make the shaft?
lenght of the padle ?
Even pressure across the whole shaft ☑️
What is the weight?
It's 19.1oz. It shows the weight at 21:21.
@@SasquatchComposites thanks for the reply, I tried similar project an year ago , but my paddle weighs around 1kg, I am not impressed with my end result, I will try again ,sorry I missed weigt information in you video.
@@jdude1195 No worries. I kind of glossed over it quickly in the video and you're not the only one that missed it :). 1kg is still much better than most paddles you can purchase for under about $300, so that's not too bad. If you try again I'd love to hear how it turns out!
What does the vacuum do?
The vacuum helps compact the layers of carbon and holds them to the foam core while the epoxy cures. Without vacuum it's more difficult to prevent voids and disbonds in your part. In short, vacuum bagging gives you a stronger, lighter, and more consistent result.
Great "how to" video, but I think I'll spend the 4 to 500 on a paddle than go through all that building process
A friend and pilot once told me "there are pilots and there are builders." The pilot will be better served by just buying an airplane and enjoying what he loves, and he shouldn't ever build just to save money. I think that philosophy applies equally well here. I'm definitely more of a builder, and I get more enjoyment out of building than using most of the things I build.
@SasquatchComposites that's excellent advice. I understand your viewpoint well, I like to make stuff and have spent much more on the tools and parts to build my own stuff, but its fun and customized to my liking.
Engagement algorithm comment.
Cool but rather pay 450 for a Werner
less weight...
or more muscles.
insert a piece of rebar in your paddle for a month or two, then remove it.
a 500$ paddle will look a stupid investment.
What does it Weigh? All this effort and you don't know what it weigh's??
It's 19.1oz. It shows the weight at 21:21.