I just used that same carbon kit, and I really like it. I'll be carbon fiber wrapping all kinds of stuff now. I 3D printed a new butt stock and wrapped it to make it stronger and look awesome. it wasn't easy, but came out really good, and next project I think I'll nail it. cut my pieces with my 40watt diode laser cutter
i kind of wanna try doing some carbon overlay/wrapping eventually... I've seen people using chop tow with good results "forged carbon" or whatever they are calling it
@JonMorley1 yeah I learned dabbing with the flat side of the brush worked best for me, my biggest problem was my glass mat was way too thick and heavy for what I was trying to do... shredding the glass mat into tow fibers helped a ton
@drrock5356 I would've 3d printed the mold with petg, from the research I did it's pretty chemical resistant and the resin won't bond to it. And when you do your final coat of resin on the finished carbon fiber part it gets rid of layer lines
@@CARS-N-CAD I 3D printed a PETG mold for compression molding chopped carbon fiber tow, and the release agent I used acted instead as an adhesion promoter. I had to chisel the PETG away from the part.
@@CARS-N-CAD I won't mention the brand, but stay away from release agents meant for metal molds/surfaces, which can be found in the "fine print" on the rear label.
@@drrock5356 what if you wrapped your mold in saran wrap? it doesn't stick to saran wrap at all. I used it to wrap my skinning project then wrapped it with electrical tape nice and tight, came out good. had some wrinkles in the resin itself, but they sanded out. on a mold the wrinkles would be on the inside so wouldn't matter
I just used that same carbon kit, and I really like it. I'll be carbon fiber wrapping all kinds of stuff now. I 3D printed a new butt stock and wrapped it to make it stronger and look awesome. it wasn't easy, but came out really good, and next project I think I'll nail it. cut my pieces with my 40watt diode laser cutter
i kind of wanna try doing some carbon overlay/wrapping eventually... I've seen people using chop tow with good results "forged carbon" or whatever they are calling it
Try dabbing the resin on instead of brushing, this will ensure the resin penetrates all of the glass and not just the surface
@JonMorley1 yeah I learned dabbing with the flat side of the brush worked best for me, my biggest problem was my glass mat was way too thick and heavy for what I was trying to do... shredding the glass mat into tow fibers helped a ton
@@CARS-N-CAD 100gsm for first layer would definitely have have helped. Final piece looked good though
Pretty good for your first attempts! Question: How would you have made the molds, if the 3D scan data turned out good? 3D Print? CNC Router/Machine?
@drrock5356 I would've 3d printed the mold with petg, from the research I did it's pretty chemical resistant and the resin won't bond to it. And when you do your final coat of resin on the finished carbon fiber part it gets rid of layer lines
@@CARS-N-CAD I 3D printed a PETG mold for compression molding chopped carbon fiber tow, and the release agent I used acted instead as an adhesion promoter. I had to chisel the PETG away from the part.
Good to know maybe I'll have to experiment
@@CARS-N-CAD I won't mention the brand, but stay away from release agents meant for metal molds/surfaces, which can be found in the "fine print" on the rear label.
@@drrock5356 what if you wrapped your mold in saran wrap? it doesn't stick to saran wrap at all. I used it to wrap my skinning project then wrapped it with electrical tape nice and tight, came out good. had some wrinkles in the resin itself, but they sanded out. on a mold the wrinkles would be on the inside so wouldn't matter
where do you get the wax?
The mold release wax? I got it just from Amazon, partall #2 paste there's a link in the description
@@CARS-N-CAD the fillet wax. yellow wax you used to fill corners